What is the cheapest way to cover the outside of a house? What is the best way to cover the outside of a country house? Exterior finishing of country houses Sheathing of a garden house budget option

Entering almost every garden house, you can see a copy of a city apartment. Summer residents drag into the garden house all the furniture that has outlived its useful life in the house. This is precisely what is most offensive, since the living environment itself speaks of giving a dacha dwelling an individual appearance. Sometimes you really want to create a living environment that is completely opposite in style and spirit to the city. And in order to achieve this effect, it is worthwhile to carefully think through the procedure for finishing the garden house.

External facade finishing

The outside of the garden house requires special attention, landscaping and decoration gives the building an individual appearance. Finishing the façade from a technical point of view is also necessary to preserve warmth inside the house. The simplest and in an inexpensive way finishing is painting. Also, before painting the facades, you need to cover all protruding parts (belts, window drains, sandriks) with iron. The humidity of plastered surfaces before painting should not be more than 8%, wooden surfaces - 12%.

If the surface moisture level is higher, it is necessary to use only lime paint for painting facades. If the humidity is within normal limits, paint of different compositions can be used to decorate the garden house - oil, varnish, synthetic, lime, cement.

The outer surface of the building is pre-dried, cleaned of dirt, dust, drips and splashes of mortar, efflorescence and grease stains, the rough surface of the plaster is smoothed, small cracks are expanded and puttied. Then the surfaces need to be primed and then you can safely apply paint twice. If you choose a lime or cement composition, the surfaces do not need to be primed; they should simply be moistened with water.

It is recommended to dry the wooden surface before painting, otherwise the paint will begin to peel off in the first year. Cut out knots and tars, open up cracks, repair embroidered and cut-out areas with putty, remove burrs and chips. If the facades of the garden house have been painted previously, clean them of old paint and putty. Paint is usually applied to wooden surface in 2 layers, the second layer must be done only after the first has dried.

Metal surfaces, if any, on the façade of the garden house can also be painted. Before painting, remove scale, mineral oil stains and loose rust. Rebates and ridges steel roofs be sure to coat with red lead putty, especially carefully in gutters and grooves. Paint metal fences 2 times with enamel and oil paints.

If you are looking for something to cover a garden house with, you can use various means: porcelain stoneware panels, clinker and glazed tiles. Currently, the facades of dachas can be finished with thermal panels, placing them on the external walls. Today in building materials stores you can choose thermal panels according to your wallet and your taste.

Floor finishing and staircase arrangement

The floor in garden houses is most often made of plank or linoleum. However, it is better to give preference to the plank one, as it is more attractive. Plank floors should not be painted oil paint, it is better to soak it 3 times with hot drying oil and preserve the natural color of the wood. Plank floors are laid only after all carpentry work, having cleared the underground of debris.

To avoid cracks in the seams of plank floors, it is recommended to use high-quality dry lumber, which has a small width - 90-150 millimeters, and protect it from possible moisture during work. For plank floors, you can take boards made of soft wood (spruce, pine) about 25-45 millimeters thick. Connect adjacent boards tightly together or in quarters, tongue-and-groove or on slats.

It is necessary to start laying floors from the walls. Nail the first board to the beams. After this, lay another 3-4 boards without piercing with nails. Then, using wedges and iron staples that are driven into the beams, they press the boards tightly against one another, hammer in the nails, remove the staples and continue to work in this sequence. The joining of the floors must be done after they have completely dried (usually this is done a year after the floor is installed), so no more than one-fourth of the boards are nailed to the beams during the initial laying.

You can also install plank floors using short planks. To do this, first lay long boards along the beams and along the walls, and then place short ones between them in tongue and groove according to the intended pattern, resulting in frieze floors. Among other things, plank floors can be made from pre-prepared panels, which measure 1 by 1 meter and are made from 2 rows of slats.

The top row is made of boards about 100 millimeters wide and 20 millimeters thick; for the bottom row, you can use lower quality slats, which are located perpendicular to the top ones. Stuff the slats in such a way that you get quarters on all 4 sides of the shield. Skirting boards are installed after the finishing of the wall surfaces and the placement of door frames.

For garden houses, you can create parquet floors that are made from panels and staves from dismantled buildings. Typically, finished shields measure 140 by 140 centimeters. Parquet floors must be laid in complete panels together with parts called extensions.

You can make shields directly at construction site using foundation boards and parquet staves. Wide centerpieces must be made so that the shield can be sawed in half. If the width of the shield corresponds to the distance between the beams, they are mounted without sheathing.

The basis for a parquet floor made from individual staves can be a continuous flooring made from boards approximately 35-40 millimeters thick and no more than 12 centimeters wide. It is customary to leave a gap of up to 10 millimeters between the boards. Lay paper or thin construction cardboard between the parquet and the flooring. After laying, carry out continuous shaving and sanding; during the procedure, moisten the parquet with water.

Linoleum must be laid on a continuous plank flooring. Before sticking, the material is cut into pieces that correspond to the size of the room, with a small allowance of 5-10 centimeters. Lay the cut pieces loosely for 5-6 days, after which you can stick them on special glue and mastic.

In utility rooms, make floors from asphalt, colored concrete, ceramic tiles, brick or polymer material. When making an asphalt or colored concrete floor, beacons are placed, along which the horizontal surface of the floor is straightened.

If you have built a two-story garden house, you need to install a staircase to communicate between the floors. At dachas, a one- or two-flight staircase is usually installed. In addition, it is customary to use a staircase of a special design - a spiral one, with winder steps. Most of the flight steps rest on one or two beams.

Flights of stationary stairs are most often made of 2 strings of boards that are at least 700 millimeters thick. Grooves about 2.5-3 centimeters deep are made into them, into which steps and risers made from five-centimeter boards are inserted. Stair railings are made of wood. A wooden balustrade is sometimes used as a fence.

Stairs should be safe and comfortable. Therefore, the height of the step should be no less than 15 and no more than 18 centimeters. In one flight, provide at least 5 steps, and the height of the fences of platforms and flights - not lower than 90 centimeters. Make steps and platforms with a slope of 1-1.5% to ensure water drainage during cleaning. To maintain the integrity of the edges of the steps, slightly round the wooden treads or chamfer them by 5 millimeters.

If you need a staircase to the attic of a garden house that you will not use often, give preference to an extension wooden stairs. Such stairs consist of 2 beams, which are approximately 40-60 centimeters behind each other. At intervals of 40 centimeters, crossbars are hammered or cut into them, which will serve as steps.

In exceptional cases, deck stairs are installed in a garden house, which consist of two steep strings, into which board steps are cut or nailed at vertical intervals of 30 centimeters. Spiral staircases made from standard wooden elements. However, such designs are not entirely convenient, although they take up little space.

Finishing and pasting of walls

The walls in garden houses are often covered with wallpaper or painted and coated with bronze. All this is very economical, but you need to take into account certain features of these premises. The main difference between such buildings and permanently inhabited areas is the sudden changes in moisture and temperature. Such interior decoration of a garden house, if it is not heated in winter, quickly deteriorates, it has to be redone often, and the wallpaper quickly peels off when there is high humidity.

Taking this circumstance into account, the internal lining is prepared for painting with waterproofing compounds. Only in this case can you start decorating the garden house with wallpaper. For residential premises you should use ordinary paper wallpaper. Utility rooms (kitchen, corridor) are covered with oilcloth and polymer-based wallpaper. The permissible humidity of the surface to be glued is no more than 12% for wood and 8% for other materials.
Before wallpapering, it is customary to cover a wooden surface with cardboard and be sure to glue the joints with paper.

Surfaces that are plastered or lined with gypsum fiber or wood fiber sheets must be dried, cleaned, glued with paste and covered with paper. Surfaces that are lined with sheets gypsum plaster, you need to glue it with paste. Defective areas and seams between sheets are first puttied and covered with paper.

It is recommended to use paste for pasting. Phenol (up to 0.02%) is added to the solution as an antiseptic and technical borax (up to 0.2%) as an insecticide. When pasting overlapping panels, begin to place them away from the window so that the top panel does not cast a shadow. The ends run behind the trim and baseboards. The gaps between them are filled with putty.

However, it is much more practical and beautiful to reveal the natural structural material of the wall. If the house is made of logs, there is no need to plaster the walls, paste them over or veneer them, because the wood already looks great. But remember that walls made of logs need an appropriate decorative solution for the interior of a garden house, which requires the presence of simplified furniture, textile products made according to folk motifs, bright dishes, forged metal elements, and bright dishes.

You can also make the walls of your garden house from face bricks with jointing or from natural stone. If the walls and interior partitions made from waste wood, ancient boxes, they will have to be plastered with high-quality material.

One of the most practical types of wall decoration in a garden house is considered to be cladding made of boards, which gives the premises coziness and is functionally justified because it protects the walls from dirt and damage. Common finishing materials are lining, blockhouse, timber simulator. In this case, the house will always have a dry and favorable atmosphere, since the tree breathes, removing harmful elements and excess moisture.

It is recommended to cover the kitchen with materials that do not absorb vapors and odors, for example, gypsum fiber sheets. Don't confuse it with drywall. Gypsum fiber sheets are good because they are quite durable. They can be painted and tiles are often glued onto them. They withstand changes in moisture and temperature, have low thermal conductivity, improving the thermal properties of the dacha. And what is very important, the price of GVL is a little more than one hundred rubles per square meter.

Sometimes plywood is used to cover the inside of a garden house. It is best to take a thin one - 4-6 millimeters. The use of thicker material is not economically viable because it becomes more expensive gypsum fiber sheets. And the cheapest facing material for decorating a garden house is MDF in sheets - pressed paper fiber that has a gray-brown color. It can be left in its original form or painted. Light wall cladding will go well with light wood furniture.

Ceiling decoration in a garden house

In most cases, a garden house is wooden structure, on the ceiling of which there are beam floors and bulging areas. Depending on the interior design, such a ceiling can be left as is, simply by treating the surface with a special paint and varnish composition. As a result, you will get a relief ceiling that looks natural, in country style.

The ceiling in the garden house can be plastered. The plaster is applied over brickwork, mesh or shingles, it is applied in 2 layers, over a metal mesh - 3. The surface on which you will apply plaster mortar(except for masonry), you need to upholster with shingles in 2 directions or cover metal mesh with cells that measure 10 millimeters.

Along the first tentorium, while it has not yet set, furrows are drawn in two directions for better adhesion to the second layer. The composition of a regular cement mortar for plaster is as follows: 1 part cement, 3-5 parts sifted sand by volume, 0.25 parts lime paste. Instead of sand, you can use a fine fraction of perlite (0.5 cm) or marble in the same volume. Whitewashing the ceiling is also a budget option, but it is still inferior to the previous options in terms of durability and decorativeness.

In addition, you can decorate the ceiling in the garden house with clapboard. In this way, it will be possible to divide the ceiling in a building into several functional zones. If you space different areas vertically, you can make a multi-level ceiling. After determining the design, you need to mark the ceiling with a marker or colored chalk, or you can even use a sharp piece of red brick.

Use the same lining as boards for the frame. Sort after purchase and separate possible products with defects - wane, cracks, uncutting and blue discoloration. If you bought high-quality lining, you can use more cheap boards. But be sure to be planed and dried. It is recommended to treat the frame boards with an antiseptic. The direction of the frame should be perpendicular to the sheathing boards.

After preliminary painting, begin decorating the garden house and its ceiling with clapboard yourself. Carry out installation, constantly checking the parallelism of the rows. Along the perimeter, leave a gap of 15-20 millimeters between the lining “carpet” and the wall. Point the comb towards the wall and drive the nail into the tongue at an angle. Next, insert the ridge of the new board into the tongue and nails into the tongue. After installing the lining, you need to nail the baseboards, secure false beams and other decorative elements.

You can also make a suspended ceiling in your garden house. Its advantages are that they are able to withstand negative temperatures and do not change their properties when exposed to moisture. This is the most good option for houses that are in winter time not heated. You can also decorate the ceiling with plastic panels, however, remember that plastic is a poorly breathable material, under which mold can form. Also, the ceiling in the country house can be covered with plasterboard.

Functional zoning of a garden house

After building a dacha, the question immediately arises of how to decorate a garden house. When creating the interior of such buildings, summer residents try to rationally use its already small area, while preserving comfortable conditions residence and satisfy aesthetic needs. This is all achievable with a reasonable division of the dacha into functional zones.

Common room

Even a small garden house includes premises that are necessary for family life, running a household and household. This is a glazed veranda, living rooms And utility rooms. At the dacha, the living quarters are represented by a bedroom and a common room. The common room is considered the main one and, as a rule, has the largest area. Usually it is located on the ground floor or in the attic and is intended for relaxation and communication between family members, receiving guests, and in the cold season it acts as a dining room.

The common room often contains a sleeping place. It is best for this purpose to recreate an alcove, which is located in the side and depth of the room. It is recommended to illuminate it with direct light. For one bed, the depth of the alcove is at least 1.2 meters, for two – 2.1 meters. In this room you need to allocate space for a dining table. Through this room you can make an exit to adjacent rooms, but it is better to separate them with a sliding partition so that they can be used together or separately.

Bedroom

Bedrooms in garden houses are usually compact in size; they are placed on the first floors or in the attics, if it is a two-room house. These rooms are usually elongated, but their depth should not be more than twice the width. When located on an extended wall front door You can comfortably place beds and have a place for a work table by the window.

The installation of built-in wardrobes and wardrobes for bedrooms is of particular importance. However, when the cabinet doors open into the room, it will be difficult to rationally arrange the furniture in it. Therefore, it is more convenient to take them out into the airlocks bordering the rooms, as in the photo of the interiors of garden houses.

Other premises

The functions of a living room are often performed by a glazed veranda, which is suitable for relaxing, eating and working. In rainy or hot weather it also becomes common. It is customary to allocate space on its square for a dining table.

In garden houses, you can rationally use additional rooms. In aisle areas, make shallow shelving and shelves along the walls that are suspended from the ceiling or mounted above a person’s height. Such devices are capable of giving the device expressiveness and plasticity.

In a garden house there is an area that is inconvenient for use, for example, the space under the stairs, the place where the ceiling meets the floor in the attic. But these meters can also be adapted for work purposes by setting up a mini workshop for various crafts, a place for needlework, reading and sewing, a pantry, a small summer garden with perennial plants or bouquets of flowers.

Furniture and lighting

All rooms of a garden house built according to a standard design can be furnished with traditional furniture. But the relatively small areas of the rooms and the seasonality of their use cause some inconvenience in using the headsets. Here it is advisable to install transformable and built-in furniture, as well as interior partitions.

When arranging a garden house, thoughtful lighting of the premises is of great importance. Insufficient or excessive lighting is undesirable. In garden houses, it is advisable to use portable and spotlights, illuminating the main elements of the interior, which demonstrates their unique appearance and allows for economical energy consumption. When installing electric lighting in a garden house, it is necessary to install special protection devices on a branch from the overhead network.

Comments:

A person’s first impression of a house will form as soon as they arrive – just one glance at the façade is enough. “You are greeted by your clothes” - this proverb is also relevant for the home. The first impression of the house as a whole depends on the facade. But how to cover the facade to make the house look beautiful and harmonious?

Plastering is the most economical way to finish a facade.

We dress the house wisely

Home cladding is now represented by a huge range of choices. Manufacturers offer options for every taste and color. Whatever type of cladding for the house you choose, the main condition is that the facade must be durable and functional. Last but not least is the fire safety of the selected façade material. No one likes facades that quickly get dirty and look sloppy a short time after installation. The electrostaticity of the house façade is responsible for this. Indicators of the functionality of a material for cladding a house are: flammability, elasticity, strength, hygroscopicity, vapor permeability, heat-insulating and soundproof qualities. In order to sheathe the facade, you can use various materials.

Types of house cladding

If homeowners are supporters of environmentally friendly materials, then you should pay attention to the following types facade finishing:

After covering the block with a house, the house looks like a log house.

Any type of mineral plaster allows you to decorate the facades of houses with texture.

To do this, you just need to change the direction of movement during grouting. Circular, vertical, horizontal movements will give the surface of the external walls of the house an interesting pattern.

When should you use siding?

Covering a house with siding is now usually decided only for decorative purposes, since on the modern market of facade materials there are more advantageous options in terms of thermal insulation. The advantages of siding are ease of installation, low contamination, and the ability to mask imperfections in the surface of the house. Covering the outside of your home with siding will give it a neat appearance.

Types of siding

So, if you decide to cover the outside of the house with siding, then you need to decide on its choice:

In terms of cladding quality, ceramic siding is not inferior to ceramic tiles.

Vinyl siding. PVC siding is the most popular due to its low cost, lightness and wide range of colors. Such a facade creates additional protection for houses from fire - it does not support combustion, but simply melts slowly. The disadvantage is low strength; such facades are not impact resistant. With sudden temperature fluctuations, vinyl plank may change its length.
Metal siding – made of aluminum or galvanized steel. Its absolute non-flammability is a big plus when covering a warehouse or garage. Main disadvantage This type of siding is prone to corrosion. A special film or paint coating will help solve this problem.
Ceramic siding. An invention of the Japanese, ceramic siding is absolutely environmentally friendly, breathes well and does not burn. Ceramic siding is the leader in ventilation ability among analogues. With the help of such siding you can sheathe a house in large quantities variations in color and texture. There are imitations of various types of wood, stone, brick in a huge number of colors and shades.

Whatever the facade of the house is covered with, it is necessary to take into account the overall architectural ensemble. So, for example, you can cover a house outside the city, among a picturesque landscape, with a wooden facade. This will organically fit it into the overall village picture. For a large mansion in a castle style, decorating the façade with stone is suitable. Cottage in english style will look great with brick facade, and the medieval one is made of large natural stone. Bright plaster combined with a tiled roof will turn the house into a fashionable Portuguese cottage.

A huge selection of materials that can be used to cover the outside of a house will help you implement the most daring design solutions.

Country houses and cottages are usually built from wood, concrete or brick, which have insufficient resistance to environmental influences. As a result, new houses very quickly become old and unattractive. Therefore, in order to protect the building from precipitation, wind and other weather conditions, the building is usually additionally finished with other building materials. And the first question that arises is: what is cheaper to sheathe the outside of a house without saving on the quality of finishing?

Basic building materials for house cladding

Today there is a wide variety of different building materials that are applicable for cladding buildings. And every year something new appears. Each building material has its pros and cons, but basically they differ good quality and durability. Therefore, one of the main consumer characteristics is the price of the product, and the question of how cheap it is to sheathe the outside of a house is of paramount importance when choosing a material.

For the maximum cost per square meter, we will conventionally take 1000 rubles, which is quite affordable for most residents of our country. Of course, the definitions of “cheap and expensive” are different for everyone. But provided that the cost of facing the building with stone or brick costs at least 3,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m (material cost plus labor costs), price 1000 rub. seems acceptable enough.

clapboard, block house and other wood materials

Thanks to the fashion for naturalness and naturalness, houses made of lumber have become especially popular today. The excellent characteristics of such a structure are significantly spoiled by one serious drawback. Wood is subject to rapid destruction from environmental influences and requires mandatory protection. Therefore, it is not enough to build a wooden house; it must be additionally protected.

There is another side to the issue. Not every owner suburban area can afford to build a new house or cottage to replace the old building. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the building that is already available into a decent form. And the question immediately arises: what to sheathe the old one with? wooden house outside is cheap and extend the buildings.

Strange as it may sound, it is better to protect a wooden house with lumber, that is, the same wood. Therefore, such materials as block house (wooden siding under a log), lining and others are perfect as cladding for such buildings. These lumber are processed by all necessary means, preventing rotting and destruction of wood.

At the same time, the cost of such materials is quite affordable; a Ukrainian or Russian-made block house can be purchased at a price of 350-700 rubles. per square meter, lining for external work - 400-1000 rubles. The cost of imported building materials, of course, is somewhat higher.

It is worth considering other options, the cheaper it is to sheathe the outside of a wooden house. As well as other buildings made of bricks, concrete blocks and other building materials.

Facade thermal panels

Depending on the material from which the building is constructed, as well as the requirements for heat and sound insulation, as a rule, they choose how to cover the outside of the house cheaply (the photo below demonstrates this option).

If a building made of wood retains heat well, then a house made of brick or concrete has very cold walls. Therefore, for its cladding it is preferable to choose materials with good thermal insulation. The best option in this case are thermal panels consisting of polyurethane and ceramics. To date Russian manufacturers They have established the production of thermal panels quite well, so the cost of this material is quite reasonable. If the cost of cladding from foreign companies varies between 1600-2500 rubles. for 1 sq. m, then the panels domestic production can be purchased for 900-1300 rubles per square.

Fiber cement panels

For stone buildings one more good option Fiber cement panels are a cheap way to sheathe the outside. This is a relatively new material, the production of which has already been launched by Russian manufacturers, and they predict a great future for it. Excellent strength characteristics and ease of installation make this material especially attractive. The cost of imported material is 1600-2000 rubles. for 1 sq. m, while the domestic analogue can be purchased for 700-900 rubles, without losing quality.

Fiber cement panels are highly durable, reliable and resistant to changing weather conditions. The only drawback is their rather significant weight, so they are practically not used for finishing wooden or panel houses.

Vinyl or metal siding

We choose further, the cheaper it is to sheathe the outside of the house. It is also convenient and profitable to decorate a brick or concrete building with siding. In addition, due to its light weight, this building material can also be used for cladding wooden buildings.

Both types of siding have their advantages and disadvantages. withstands greater temperature differences, is more durable and reliable, but strongly removes heat from the walls of the building. Although vinyl material does not heat, it does not cool either.

Selection of finishing material

Modern construction technologies provide us with a fairly large range of finishing materials that meet all the necessary requirements. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of both the decorative design of the house and its immediate functional characteristics. It should be noted that, due to their specific nature, not all existing materials are suitable for finishing wooden buildings. Let's consider the most optimal cladding options.

Wooden lining

Wood lining allows you to preserve the natural and natural look home, significantly improving its external design and functional characteristics. It is a flat board that is easily mounted and joined to adjacent ones in the longitudinal direction using special spikes.

Note! This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, high strength, and also provides excellent level temperature and acoustic insulation.

Main disadvantage wooden lining– its relative vulnerability to insects and rodents. This problem is partially solved by treating the surface with special protective equipment. The second disadvantage of the material is fading, so a house with this finish should be painted approximately every three years.

GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. Specifications. File for download.

Block house

In fact, a block house is a type of wooden lining. It is made only from coniferous trees. The main difference between this finish is the shape of its elements - this material imitates cylindrical logs. The internal surface of the block house is flat, which simplifies the installation process using the tongue-and-groove technology. Unlike ordinary wooden lining, the block house has best performance protection from weather conditions and insects. However, it should be noted that the price of this material is significantly higher, which, of course, is its main disadvantage.

facade finishing wooden house block house

Vinyl siding

This material has excellent resistance to high temperatures positive temperatures. It practically does not deform and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In addition to this vinyl siding easy to care for, easy to clean and does not need to be repainted periodically. The available colors are so wide that anyone can choose a shade to their liking. Vinyl panels can be installed not only using self-tapping screws, but also using regular nails.

Vinyl siding - technical characteristics

But even such a functional material has its drawbacks. It is intended for use in countries with temperate and warm climates, so it does not tolerate extreme cold well. The strength of the material is also low; vinyl panels require quite careful attitude to yourself. In addition, when choosing this type of siding, keep in mind that under the influence of direct sun rays panels of dark shades can noticeably fade after a couple of years.

Metal siding

This finishing material, in comparison with vinyl, does not have a number of key disadvantages. First of all, it is much more protected from fading in the sun. This allows you to safely use siding in darker colors without the risk of getting a faded facade in two or three years. sunny side Houses. In addition, even at very low temperatures the metal does not lose its strength and wear resistance.

There are three main disadvantages of metal siding:

susceptibility to corrosion in case of violation of the outer protective layer;
vulnerability to impact loads and the possibility of profile deformation;
high coefficient of thermal conductivity (metal quickly heats up and cools down).

PVC panels

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are identical in characteristics to vinyl siding, since they represent one of its varieties. However, in terms of creating original design solutions, PVC elements give builders more ample opportunities. Such panels allow you to create high-quality imitation of stone, brick and marble surfaces, and are also easily combined with standard vinyl siding, which allows you to give building facades a unique and exclusive look.

Preparatory work

The main part of the preparation for the process of insulation and cladding of a wooden building consists of sanitizing its walls with the help of special chemicals designed to protect the wood from infection by fungus, harmful insects and rodents. In addition, it is mandatory to lay a special vapor barrier layer between the internal walls and the external thermal insulation layer.

As a rule, it is:

polyethylene;
aluminum foil;
bitumen roofing felt;
vapor barrier made of special materials.

The most optimal price/quality ratio is polyethylene, since it can significantly reduce the financial costs of covering a house.

Installing a vapor barrier involves maintaining a small air gap between it and the wall of the building. Therefore, if the walls are flat on the outside, before laying the film, a frame should be built on them from slats about 3 centimeters thick, nailing them in increments of about half a meter. After this, special work must be done in the slats in all four directions. ventilation holes and proceed directly to the installation of the vapor barrier. The film is nailed to the slats or round logs of the wall with nails or a construction stapler with an overlap at intervals of about 15 centimeters. Upon completion of this stage, the joints and placement of fasteners must be sealed with special construction tape.

Selection of thermal insulation material

After successful completion of all preparatory work, you can begin to create a thermal insulation layer of the sheathing. Due to the specificity of a material such as wood, optimal choice Mineral wool slabs will be used. However, various options are possible.

Table No. 1. Materials for insulating the facade of a wooden house.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
	- excellent thermal insulation performance; - ease of installation; - protection from pests.	- poor air permeability, which leads to wood rotting; - not fire resistant; - is not an environmentally friendly material.
	- excellent thermal insulation; - resistant to fire; - protected from the influence of microbes and pests.	- vapor-tight, poorly ventilated. - difficult to cut and install.
	- well ventilated; - retains heat perfectly; - easy to install; - environmentally friendly; - resistant to fire.	The ingress of moisture if the installation technology is violated leads to a sharp decrease in insulating properties.

It should be noted that polystyrene foam and penoplex are used extremely rarely for insulating wooden houses, so it is recommended to opt for mineral wool.

Features of the process of thermal and waterproofing of wooden houses

A wooden frame made of vertically nailed boards is mounted on top of the previously installed vapor barrier layer. It is optimal to use a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. The frame elements must be positioned in such a way that the distance between them is 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral slabs. This will allow for a tighter fit. insulating material without the use of additional fasteners.

The next stage of covering a wooden house is the installation of a waterproofing film on top of the insulation layer. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the film in relation to the mineral wool blocks: the rough surface should be directed towards the insulation, and the smooth surface should be directed outwards. As at the stage of work on installing a vapor barrier, fastening occurs using a construction stapler with an overlap, followed by gluing the staples and joints with tape.

When the waterproofing is installed, it is necessary to nail another layer of boards on top of the previously created frame, on which the external finishing elements will be placed at the final stage. The recommended wood thickness is 4 cm with a width of 5 cm.

Carrying out external finishing works

External work is the final stage of finishing a house, which requires special care and a thorough approach. Not only the aesthetics of the facade, but also the functionality of the previously created insulating layers will largely depend on the quality of installation of the external cladding elements.

Installation of block house and wooden lining

The process of securing wooden lining is carried out as follows.

Table No. 2. Cladding the facade with clapboard.

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	Having prepared and cut the boards to the required length, they are mounted on the frame. Sheathing should be done from the bottom up, from the corner of the building.
	The starting board is installed and nailed (or fixed with special fasteners), with the tenon facing down. It must be positioned strictly parallel to the ground, so a level must be used to check the result. If everything is done correctly, you can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, the board must first be leveled.
	The next board is inserted into the groove of the previous one. In order for the boards to fit tightly together, the top one needs to be hammered into the groove of the bottom one using a special wooden hammer.
	After joining the boards, the second one is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first.
	All subsequent boards are attached using a similar algorithm.
	After installation is completed, you need to start decorating the corners of the building. To do this, two boards are vertically attached to them so that one overlaps the other. Window trims are designed in the same way.

Installation of vinyl and metal siding

A general vinyl siding installation scenario includes:

installation on the frame of the starting bar;
installation of corners and H-shaped connecting strips;
fastening and installation of siding panels;
installation of the finishing strip and fixation of the final tier.

The starting strip is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building or that part of it that will be sheathed with vinyl. Since the plank will be covered from above by a row of panels, there are no special requirements for it: you can use connections from scraps and even a strip of a different color. The initial stage is the most important, so it is worth approaching it thoroughly, because it will be quite difficult to correct the slightest imbalance in the event of an error.

First, a nail is driven in at the corner of the outer frame of the building below and a thread is pulled along the wall, which should be used as a guide in the future. Note that the distance from the ground to the thread should be equal to the width of the starting strip.
Next, having secured the thread at the second corner, it is placed in correct position using a level. The result should be a straight line strictly parallel to the ground.
Using chalk or a pencil, draw a straight line, for which the thread is used as a guide. It will mark the place where the starting strip will be fixed.
The plank is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

We draw your attention to the fact that you need to check the correct installation of the panels with a level as often as possible. It is advisable to do this before installing every third row of siding.

Fastening the vertical corner strips must begin before installing the main panels, since it is in them that all rows of siding are installed. Getting to this stage finishing works, you should know some of the features of this process.

The corner bar should be located at a height of 0.5-0.7 cm from the ground. This is done so that during thermal expansion the plank does not rest against the foundation and does not become deformed.
The corner must be secured with self-tapping screws from top to bottom. In this case, pay attention to the fact that the first fastener is made at the top point of the hole, and all subsequent ones - in the center. This approach makes it possible to ensure that the sheathing material expands only downwards and to the sides.
The bottom edge of the vertical corner strip must be cut to the width of the starting strip. The goal, as in previous cases, is the same - to avoid the consequences of expansion of the material when heated.

Final result

The flexibility of the corners of vinyl and metal siding makes it easy to use these materials in the process of finishing blunt and sharp corners buildings. To cover an obtuse corner, the profile is pressed down, and when working with an acute corner, it is narrowed.

Installation and fastening of the H-profile, which is used for horizontal joining of sheathing elements, is similar to the process of installing corner strips. In this case, it is necessary to comply important rule: the starting strips should be adjacent to the profile, and not vice versa. In addition, when covering with siding, you can do without the H-profile altogether if you arrange the strips overlapping.

The process of installing rows of siding panels occurs according to the following algorithm.

The first strip is inserted into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, after which it is snapped into the starting lock.
Fastening to the frame should be done using self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the nail holes. Remember that you cannot screw the siding tightly, you need to leave it free space for thermal expansion.
All subsequent tiers, except the top one, are mounted in the same way.

At the final stage of wall cladding, the top plank is mounted, after which the distance from it to the lock of the penultimate tier is measured. Next, the finishing panel is bent so that its width corresponds to the measured distance, and inserted into the lock.

The process of external cladding with PVC panels is essentially similar to the installation of siding trim discussed above. It uses an identical system of locks and clutches, which may vary only slightly depending on the manufacturer of the materials.

Let's hope our instructions and finishing tips wooden houses helped you clarify the understanding of the features of this process and facilitated the implementation of your plans and creative ideas.

Video - Siding a wooden house

Facing

Introduction

How to cover the outside of a wooden house and is it possible to do it inexpensively? The main task is the correct choice of materials. It is important that the finish is not only attractive and reflects the personal preferences of the home owner, but also is easy to install, increases the thermal insulation of the building and costs a reasonable amount.

We will look at the most popular materials for cladding the facade of wooden buildings, their advantages, as well as photos of the result of finishing houses using them.

The need for façade finishing

Why does a house need exterior decoration? There are several answers here:

The main thing that is expected from the cladding of a house is to increase its attractiveness. The variety of finishing and building materials allows you to realize even the most unusual ideas façade finishing;

House facade

The need to protect the structure from insects and small rodents. The attack of bugs and mice leads to premature damage to the wood, loss of its decent appearance and the strength of the building itself. Reliable finishing of the facade will protect the walls of the house from pests and will not allow them to get inside;
The need for protection from external atmospheric influences. A damp environment on wood from constant rain and snow promotes rotting processes. Of course, the outside walls of a house can be treated with various types of antiseptics, but their cost is quite high, and regular treatment of facades becomes expensive;
Exterior finishing of a wooden house using modern materials increases the level of sound insulation. This makes staying inside the building comfortable and contributes to better quality rest;
Thermal protection function performed by good cladding external walls, helps to better maintain heat in the house in cold weather, and cool air temperature in hot weather;
Finishing materials for cladding houses are mostly fire-resistant, which helps solve an important function - protecting a wooden structure from fire.

Scheme of a layer-by-layer ventilated structure

No ventilation.

Material exterior finishing It is attached to the walls without gaps, which requires installation of a layer of insulation from inside the building.

Experienced specialists for wooden houses recommend a ventilated design option to reduce the likelihood of excess moisture accumulating on the walls. This way you can make the house itself much warmer due to the presence of an air gap.

Materials for exterior finishing of a wooden house

The most popular materials today for decorating the exterior walls of wooden houses are:

Siding – metal and vinyl;
Block House;
Imitation of timber;
Brick;
Clinker thermal panels;
Porcelain tiles;
Facade paint.

Important! Whatever type of finishing you choose, before installing the material, the walls of the house must be cleaned and treated with special antiseptic compounds. In addition, if the structure is made of logs or timber, it is additionally required to caulk along the entire perimeter using jute or flax fiber.

Log building in front facade works undergoes careful caulking

Siding

Most often, metal or vinyl siding is used to decorate wooden houses. If the likelihood of a fire in a particular structure is considered increased, it is recommended to cover it with concrete siding.

quick installation;
protection of house walls from mechanical damage;
many colors and textures;
ease of care;
metal siding does not burn;
not subject to rotting;
provides increased level thermal protection of the building;
protects walls from moisture;
fastened with a gap - allows the wood to “breathe”;
it's cheap.

Siding can be installed on the external walls of a building at any time of the year. The installation process itself is quite simple and does not require experience in such work.

Block house

This material is popular among those who seek to give the appearance of their building a “original Russian” look, reminiscent of wooden huts. A block house is made of wooden boards, smooth on one side and convex on the other (reminiscent of a log).

Advantages of the material:

visual appeal of the building facade;
simple installation of material;
increasing the level of thermal insulation and noise insulation;
long service life;
excellent camouflage of wall defects.

However, along with the advantages of finishing with a block house, there are also disadvantages:

it is necessary to impregnate the wooden parts with an antiseptic solution;
the price is higher compared to siding;
increased fire hazard.

Attractive appearance of a wooden house sheathed with a block house

Imitation of timber

In fact, this material is a type of wooden lining. Especially for outdoor work, boards with a thickness of at least 2 centimeters are produced. Finishing facades with imitation timber has the following advantages:

environmental friendliness;
the ability to hide external wall defects;
quick lining;
increases thermal insulation;
long service life;
does not require experience in installing such materials.

Disadvantages of imitation timber:

The need for regular treatment with compounds;
High fire hazard.

Exterior view of a wooden house, the cladding of which used imitation timber

Brick

Brick cladding for a wooden house is an aesthetic finish that is better than many budget options:

increasing the thermal insulation of the building;
strength and reliability of the material;
long service life;
excellent frost resistance;
low level of moisture absorption.

The disadvantages of brick include the laboriousness of the finishing process, the need to strengthen the foundation (brick is enough heavy material), as well as the high cost of such cladding, taking into account the purchase of everything necessary.

The process of exterior finishing of an old wooden house using bricks

Clinker thermal panels

Sheathing a wooden house with clinker thermal panels is at the peak of popularity due to the advantages of the material - low cost, quick installation and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Additional functions of the clinker panel for exterior decoration of the house:

resistance to mechanical damage;
durability of the material;
ease of care;
low vapor permeability and moisture absorption;
environmental friendliness;
resistance to solar radiation.

The process of installing clinker thermal panels on the lathing on the facade of a wooden house

Porcelain tiles

Porcelain tiles, which contain clay, dyes, kaolin, feldspar and quartz sand, are also an excellent material for cladding wooden facades.

Advantages of the material:

high strength properties;
fire resistance;
large selection of textures and colors;
possibility of dry and wet installation;
excellent resistance to low temperatures and solar radiation.

Exterior finishing of a wooden house with porcelain stoneware slabs on a metal sheathing

Painting

The facades of wooden buildings are sometimes simply painted. Painting has the following advantages as a finish:

protection of the external walls of the house from atmospheric influences;
...from the temperature difference;
...from fading under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Facade painting process

In order for the paint to really perform these functions, it is worth choosing the right paint composition. Among others, the following are used for finishing the facades of wooden houses:

water-borne compounds – polyvinyl acetate;
acrylic emulsions;
oil-acrylate and oil-alkyd;
various kinds of varnishes and azures;
other compositions.

Each of these types of paints has its own distinctive features and degree of protective properties, so when purchasing you need to pay attention to the specific characteristics of the composition.

Conclusion

So, we looked at how to cover the outside of a wooden house. Finishing a facade is a difficult and painstaking process that requires the correct choice of material and adherence to the technology for its installation. Usually external cladding executed after interior works indoors. Finish options interior spaces wooden houses you can find out from.

Wood is a durable and beautiful building material, which proper care will last for many decades. At the same time, wood is quite an expensive material, especially when it comes to various types well-dried timber, so the walls are made thinner, and heat loss is reduced with additional insulation and external cladding. We will talk about the requirements for cladding material, and also compare different materials to determine which one is better suited for a wooden house. In addition, we recommend organizing a ventilation system (ventilated façade) for any cladding, because this approach extends the service life of the wood and reduces the requirements for cladding materials. We will try to answer the most main question- the better way to cover the outside of a wooden house so that it is cheap and beautiful.

Requirements for cladding materials

Any cladding material must meet the following requirements:

fire resistance;
resistance to precipitation;
resistance to temperature changes;
UV resistance;
ease of installation;
low price.

Fire resistance– one of the most important parameters for cladding material (cladding). It is clear that if there is a strong fire near the house, then any material will catch fire, but it should be very difficult to set it on fire with a match and paper, or even pouring gasoline on it. In addition, the cladding should not be afraid of rain or snow, that is, precipitation should not lead to its destruction. Another condition is resistance to temperature changes. If facing material strongly absorbs water, then when the temperature drops to negative values, the water in the outer layers will freeze and tear the material. UV resistance protects the cladding from changing color under the influence of sunlight - the more resistant the material, the less it fades over time. Equally important are parameters such as ease of installation and cost of material. After all, the use of difficult-to-install material increases overall costs, because it is necessary to use special technologies or equipment that not everyone has access to.

Sheathing materials

Here is a list of the most popular materials for cladding wooden houses:

various thermal panels;
reinforcing mesh and plaster;
PVC siding;
metal siding;
wood-cellulose siding;
fiber cement siding and panels;
artificial stone;
block house;
board;
waterproof OSB (Oriented Strand Board) and plywood.

Thermal panels- the simplest finishing option, because they combine polystyrene or foam insulation and various external finishing. The most popular panels are those with a brick finish. However, to install them, you must first install the bars of the ventilated facade. Plaster with reinforcing mesh can be applied to any hard surface, so it is often used if a wooden house is insulated with foam plastic or heavily compressed mineral wool. This finishing scheme is very popular - mesh + glue + bark beetle plaster.

All types of siding are mounted on an insulated ventilated facade with wooden blocks or metal profile. Siding is the simplest way to decorate a room, the only difference is the cost of materials. The advantage of siding is that you can use both classic rectangular panels and “log-like” panels. Fiber cement panels are used if it is necessary to increase the fire resistance of a house, because this material is ten times more difficult to set on fire than even timber treated with pyrophobic impregnation. After finishing the house with fiber cement boards, the cladding must be painted with waterproof paints. Artificial stone is tried on for finishing a ventilated facade. To install it, the facade must be covered with a hard material, such as fiber cement board, OSB or plywood. Then the artificial stone is glued to the facade, using the same reinforcing mesh as for plaster.

Block house, that is, a board whose outer part imitates a rounded log. Covering a wooden house with a block house allows you to restore its exterior to some extent, demonstrating to everyone the aesthetic taste of the owner and his desire to live in a house made of natural materials. A house covered with a block house must be regularly treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Read about how to choose antiseptics and impregnations in this article (I think it’s called how to choose impregnations or antiseptics, I don’t remember exactly). The advantage of a block house over other materials is its very high vapor permeability, therefore the requirements for façade ventilation are much lower. Another wood material is carriage board. It is cheaper than a block house and creates a more primitive exterior of the house, but has all the performance qualities of a block house.

OSB and plywood used in three cases:

when it is necessary to create a hard, rigid surface for applying plaster;
for cladding outbuildings;
for cladding for painting.

Waterproof plywood and OSB have all the disadvantages and advantages of boards and block houses, however, they are much cheaper. Therefore, they are used for cladding inexpensive houses and outbuildings where there are no high requirements for the exterior.

Cost of finishing materials for cladding a wooden house

Below we have provided average cost data posted on the websites of stores selling finishing materials:

Russian-made thermal panels, 60–80 mm thick, panel size 100x68 cm (length and width), cost per panel 1000–2300 rubles, cost per m² 1600–3400 rubles.
Reinforcing mesh for plaster (glue + bark beetle plaster) will cost 20–50 rubles per m² of mesh. The cost of one bag of dry plaster (20 kg) is 150–300 rubles, with a consumption rate of 2–4 kg m². That is, one bag is enough for 5–10 square meters. The cost of one bag of bark beetle plaster (20–25 kg) is 150–500 rubles, with a consumption rate of 3–6 kg per m². That is, one bag is enough for 3–8 m².
PVC siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 100–300 rubles.
Metal siding - price per m² excluding the cost of sheathing is 200–700 rubles.
Wood-cellulose siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 60–200 rubles.
Fiber cement siding and panels – price per m² is 1–3 thousand rubles.
Artificial stone - price per m² 600–3000 rubles.
Block house made of dry boards - price per m² 200–600 rubles.
Boards (lining) made of coniferous and deciduous wood 150–250 rubles per m², from valuable wood 300–700 rubles per m².
Moisture-resistant plywood and OSB 12–16 mm thick price per m² 150–250 rubles.

Conclusion

The correct choice of material for finishing a wooden house will allow you to minimum costs achieve the desired effect. After all, the cladding is not only decorative element, but also protects the insulation and walls from external influence. By choosing one or another coating, you can dramatically change the exterior of the house, both emphasizing that it is made of wood and harmoniously coordinating it with other buildings in the area.

What to choose for cladding the facade of a house, which material is better, how long will it last, how well does it correspond to the architectural features of the building and interior decoration? Perhaps these are the main questions that the owner of a private house has to solve final stage construction or overhaul when the time comes to choose materials for finishing the facade of a private house.

Home decoration is like a person’s clothing – it protects and decorates

Facade decoration, as part of the overall idea - what to pay attention to

The choice of materials for facade finishing depends on many factors. Of course, there is no universal answer to the question of what is better to clad the façade of a house. Here are just the main points to consider:

facade is the appearance of a building, forming the impression of it architectural features;

the exterior of the house should fit organically into the overall space of the site, taking into account other buildings and the landscape;

the style must correspond to established national traditions;

design and materials of external and interior decoration must harmoniously complement each other and work towards a common idea;

cladding should be carried out using energy-saving technologies.

Installation of insulation is increasingly perceived as an obligatory part of finishing work

And the main task that needs to be solved is to stay within a certain budgetary framework.

Classic style

There are such classic finishing materials for the facades of private houses: brick, wood and plaster. Still in use natural stone, but tiles made from it are expensive, so they often choose a modern analogue - façade porcelain tiles.

Brick

This finishing material cannot be called cheap in terms of one-time investments.

Facade finishing can transform frame house in brick

But taking into account the service life of tens of years, the absence of the need to repair the facade and the ease of maintenance, the situation changes to the exact opposite - this is one of the most profitable types of cladding. But it also has its own hierarchy:

Facing ceramic brick. The most inexpensive type - the price of a single one starts from 7.60 rubles. and can reach up to 17 rubles. per piece (depending on the manufacturer and the decorative texture of the front surface). The cost of 1 m2 is in the range of 390-850 rubles.

Hyperpressed brick. Price of one building block twice as expensive as ceramic bricks, but this type has its own formats, so it is better to compare prices for 1 m2 of half-brick masonry. A relatively inexpensive option will cost 900-950 rubles, with a textured surface - twice as expensive.

Clinker brick. The most durable, but also the most expensive type facing bricks industrial production. If we round up the prices a little, then 1 pc. will cost from 20 to 90 rubles, and 1 m2 will cost 900-4300 rubles, respectively.

The colorful Bavarian clinker brickwork gives the house a special chic

Hand-molded brick. Like clinker, it is an elite material. Piece price from 40 rubles. and higher (there are models more expensive than four times the lower price). But taking into account the different formats, it is better to quote the price of 1 m2, and it starts from 2100 rubles. and can reach up to 14,000 rubles.

The prices shown do not take into account the cost of delivery, masonry mortar and labor. And if you also carry out insulation, then you need to add on the costs for this part (although this stage is common for most facade cladding technologies).

If you choose clinker or hand-molded brick, then there is an opportunity to save money - choose a domestic manufacturer (lower price thresholds are indicated specifically for him). But the standard of quality is considered to be products from Germany.

And to dispel claims about the benefits of ceramic tiles made to look like bricks, the price of clinker tiles is almost no different from bricks, and the cost of 1 m2 of hand-molded tiles can reach 8,000 rubles. And it all depends on the chosen trademark. When choosing tiles, you can only save on the foundation due to the lighter weight of the cladding.

The weight of tiles is clearly less than that of bricks

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Therefore, when you need to choose what to cover the facade of a house with inexpensively and beautifully, it is better to use domestic facing bricks.

Tree

This material is also in demand for finishing country houses V rustic style, and for modern cottages in the eco-style that is popular today.

Therefore, all types of façade wooden panels are in use:

Facade lining. It differs from the interior one only in thickness (14 mm and above). The cost of 1 m2 depends on the type of wood, grade and humidity. Inexpensive pine lining with natural humidity costs 170-220 rubles, and “Extra” class larch will cost 1200-1350 rubles. (which is comparable to the cost of domestic clinker bricks). The price of a “unit area” is also affected by the width of the panel - narrow paneling costs less.

Cladding a house with clapboard is one of the most inexpensive and attractive options

Imitation of timber. This is practically the same lining of the “standard” type (with a chamfer), but thicker. The minimum price for 1 m2 of “VS” grade pine is 220 rubles. (with a thickness of 18 mm), and for class “A” and a thickness of 21 mm you will have to pay one and a half times more. A larch panel 20 mm thick will cost 800 rubles/m2 (class “AB”) and 1400 rubles/m2 (class “Extra”).

Imitation timber has virtually no external differences from conventional façade lining

Block house. The difference from the lining is the rounded surface “like a log” (imitation of a log house). Pine 27 mm thick and 135 mm wide will cost around 300 rub./m2 (“VS”), 45 mm thick and 230 mm wide – 650-750 rub./m2 (“A”). The same block house made of larch costs on average 2.5 times more expensive.

Block house imitates the wall of a log house

Planken. Another type of cladding board, but without tongue-and-groove fastening. It comes with an oblique and straight profile, and the most characteristic difference is the gap between the panels. It costs approximately the same as imitation timber.

Planken fits perfectly into modern architectural style

Plaster

This is the most inexpensive type of facade finishing. But here too there are “economy” and “extra” classes:

Mineral facade plaster based on cement, lime and their mixtures. The simplest type of leveling plaster costs from 220-250 rubles. per bag of dry mixture weighing 25 kg. With a consumption rate of about 12-15 kg per 1 m2 (with a layer thickness of 10 mm), you need to spend only 110-120 rubles per “unit area”. Plus primer, work and exterior paint.

An example of finishing with mineral facade plaster

Mineral decorative plaster. If you plaster in two layers - main and decorative, then use plaster such as "fur coat", "bark beetle" or "pebble". A 25 kg bag costs 360-800 rubles, but due to the thin layer the consumption is less - from 2.5 kg to 4 kg per 1 m2, and this will increase the price by another 60-120 rubles/m2. In total, you need to spend about 250-400 rubles/m2 on all materials for inexpensive finishing of the facade of a house made of mineral plaster. But these are the prices of domestic manufacturers; “foreign” decorative plaster can cost at least 3 times more.

Plaster with the “bark beetle” effect is always available with any type of binder

Acrylic plaster. Sold ready-made or diluted to the required consistency with water. Consumption from 1.5 to 3.5 kg/m2 (the thinnest layers can even be applied with a spray gun). Depending on the weight of the package, 1 kg of domestic plaster costs 70-90 rubles. Taking into account consumption, cost of materials finishing lies in the range of 100-300 rubles/m2. Plus you need to add the costs of a leveling layer of mineral plaster, primer, work and paint.

Acrylic facade plaster looks good not only in one color, but also in a combination of them

Silicate plaster. Ceresite per kilogram costs 100-120 rubles, which at a consumption rate of 3-3.5 kg/m2 determines the cost of finishing coating materials at the level of 300-400 rubles/m2 (but this is not a purely silicate binder, but in combination with silicone resins ). And it is more expensive than finishing with acrylic plaster. If you choose an imported mixture, the cost of finishing doubles.

Silicate plaster with a rough surface is not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity

Silicone plaster. If you do not take into account the “hybrid” Ceresit and mixtures with a binder in combination with acrylic polymers, then in its pure form the most inexpensive façade silicone plaster per kilogram costs at least 150 rubles, and on average – about 200 rubles. Consumption is the same as others decorative coatings, depends on the grain size of the filler (layer thickness), and can range from 2.5 to 4 kg/m2. Therefore, this type is the most expensive - the cost of the finishing coating is 350-800 rubles/m2, and this is already comparable to the price of cladding with domestic ceramic bricks.

The colors and textures of silicone plaster allow you to choose it to suit any artistic design.

Siding

This is the general name for a whole group of materials that differ in the material of manufacture and performance characteristics. Many factors influence price formation, and the range of prices even in one category is very large. Therefore, the statement about the low cost of this type of finishing is not entirely correct. Although there is a certain hierarchy here, and the question arises of how to decorate the facade from the presented types of siding:

Vinyl wall siding. The price of products from a domestic manufacturer starts from 165 rubles/m2 and reaches 500 rubles/m2 (and this is with the same thickness of 1.1 mm). For imported siding you will have to pay twice as much - up to 1000 rubles / m2.

Vinyl siding - inexpensive and aesthetically pleasing

Vinyl basement siding. It differs from the wall one in its greater thickness and high mechanical strength. Therefore, for domestic manufacturers the price starts from 470 rubles/m2 and reaches 1300 rubles/m2. To buy imported siding, you need to pay 1000-2000 rubles. more.

To see more about vinyl siding, watch the video:

Metal siding. If we talk about price, it does not cost much more than vinyl wall siding. Moreover, the cost is influenced not so much by the origin as by the thickness of the metal and the type of coating. But in any case, the price spread is not so significant. For example, domestic siding 0.4 mm thick coated with polyester costs from 260 rubles/m2, and Finnish siding 0.5 mm thick and covered with pural will cost 800 rubles/m2.

Metal siding can be made in many textures, including wood. Video example:

Fiber cement siding and WPC sheathing boards(wood-polymer composite). Materials of approximately the same cost are 1000-2000 rubles/m2. The main reason for the high cost is imports. But when compared with foreign vinyl basement siding, then this is the same price category.

WPC siding is visually no different from natural wood plank, but will last much longer

If the task is to decorate the facade of a house inexpensively, then domestically produced vinyl or steel siding includes curtain façade– most best option. Although here, additional costs will be required for accessories (up to 30% of the cost of the panels).

Conclusion

The most popular types of facade finishing are given. In principle, in each category there are options that allow you to keep it under 500 rubles. at the price of materials for square meter. And you just need to decide which one best suits the architecture of the house, landscape and interior decoration.