A wardrobe room is primarily an organized storage system. There is an opinion among designers that an ideal dressing room should have about 12 square meters per family member. But most, with their typical 36 square meters, are very far from ideal. We will tell you how to use every centimeter using the science of ergonomics in this article.
Dressing room dimensions
The best shape for a dressing room is considered to be a rectangle, in which there are no protrusions and the number of corners does not exceed four. The minimum room area is 3 square meters. In this case, the length of one wall should not be less than 2 meters. In such small dressing rooms it is better to arrange the storage system in the letter “G”.
If you know exactly how many cabinets you need, then calculating the area of your dressing room will not be difficult: count the number of compartments horizontally along long wall, multiply by their width (usually the width of one compartment is 50, 75 or 100 centimeters) - that’s the length. Now, if the cabinets have drawers, then multiply the depth of the cabinets by two and add a minimum passage of 50 centimeters (optimal - 80–100 centimeters) - this is the width dressing room, where cabinets are located along one of the walls.
Where and what is stored in the dressing room
- The upper zone is at a level of 200–250 centimeters from the floor. Here are mezzanines designed for storing out-of-season or rarely used items. It takes about 50 centimeters.
- The middle zone (located at a height of 60 to 170 centimeters from the floor) is the main space for storing things. This is where things will hang on hangers, towels will lie on shelves and various accessories will wait in the wings in drawers.
- The lower zone occupies a space within 70 centimeters from the floor level. It’s convenient to build in shoe storage systems here or put things that are not used that often.
Storing things on hangers
- Blouses, shirts, jackets on hangers take up about 1 meter in height, and about 5–7 centimeters in width on the bar; storage depth - up to 50 centimeters.
- Fur coats, raincoats, long dresses, trousers differ from the above standards only in length - it is 175 centimeters.
- The compartment for trousers and skirts is usually made 120–130 centimeters high.
- Hangers with trousers and outerwear should be located no higher than 120 centimeters from the floor level, but not lower than 50 centimeters.
Shoe storage
- Shoes can be placed compactly using special racks or drawers.
- The distance between the shelves in height should be maintained within 20 centimeters for summer shoes and 45 centimeters for boots and boots. The width of one pair of shoes takes up approximately 25 centimeters; the recommended width of a shelf for shoes in a closet is 75-100 centimeters.
- If you decide to store shoes in boxes, choose special ones - transparent, with windows or space for notes.
Accessory storage
- Store tights, socks and underwear in shallow drawers (12–17 centimeters), after dividing them into sections 10–15 centimeters wide. The length is determined depending on the type of things. So, bras require longer sections, and square ones are also suitable for socks.
- To store small accessories, such as ties, belts, belts or scarves, you can purchase special rods or hangers. But it’s better to hide hats and gloves in drawers - this way there’s less chance of losing them.
- Store bed linen and towels on shelves as wide as possible, and small items (hats, bags), on the contrary, in narrow compartments with compact shelves - 15–17 centimeters high and about 25 centimeters deep.
Tip: in order to understand how much space in width certain things need, focus on their folded dimensions. The height is usually 25–30 centimeters.
Note: this is also important to know
1. If you have a lot of expensive, “capricious” things from natural materials, think about the internal, supply ventilation. Or make louvered doors: this way air will also penetrate into the dressing room.
Even the tiniest bathroom will become cozier if you learn to use the available space and find a place for every item. Buy shelves, hooks, stock up on transparent containers. Remove the excess. Here are some ideas for organizing your new storage spaces.
Take the height
In a small bathroom, you can use the height of the walls and hang not one, but two or three shelves on top of each other. Inexpensive shelves and fixtures can be purchased at furniture store. Place wicker baskets or beautiful boxes, in which you hide cosmetics, detergents and towels.
Stage a coup 
In a combined bathroom, the space above the toilet is usually empty; several identical shelves can be hung there. Original idea- place shelf fastenings not at the bottom, but on the sides of the shelves, turning them into a decorative element. Wooden carved fasteners are suitable for this. To hang these shelves, screw metal fasteners to back wall shelves. For beauty, you can paint the shelf and mountings in white or in the color of the tiles.
Mirror with a secret 
In a small bathroom there is no point in hanging a simple mirror; it is better to make a cabinet behind the mirror. It may not be deep, but if you make it the entire wall, there will be enough shelves for storage. 12 more secrets for a cramped apartment.
Look under the sink 
The cabinet under the sink is usually small, but you can also make shelves there, or even better and more convenient - drawers on rails. To prevent chaos in your drawers, place organizers and transparent plastic boxes there. When you open the drawer, you will immediately see what is there.
Secret Vault 
If there is a spacious double-door cabinet under the sink, hang several drawers inside - organizers, and attach metal shelves for storage on the doors detergents and a hairdryer.
Instead of shelves - baskets 
There is always a free corner of the wall next to the shower stall; use it for shelves. Wicker baskets hanging on stylized hooks look original. You can store everything in them - from toilet paper to the towels.
Use every centimeter
If the bathroom is separate, you can also create new storage spaces in it. For example, build a closed cabinet behind the toilet for washing powders, brushes and mops. Or make open shelves, paint them white, and put beautiful bottles of cosmetics on them, decorative flowers, candles and vases.
We write two, three in our minds 
Many people like to hang metal container shelves for shampoos in the bathroom. Instead of one shelf, buy three at once. Hang one on the wall near the shower, and place the other two in the cabinet under the sink. They are convenient for storing shampoos, cosmetics, hair dryers and cleaning products. Be sure to measure the height of your cabinet to ensure you buy the right size shelves.
Useful decor
Rustic wood panel is not only a design element of the bathroom, it can be used in practical purposes. Using metal brackets, attach several glass jars different sizes- they have space for cosmetics, combs, makeup brushes and much more. Glass looks good in tight spaces.
Magnetic attraction 
It's hard to resist the urge to lump metal files, tweezers and hairpins into one pile. A magnet will help you overcome your laziness. Attach a magnetic strip to a mirror and it will attract all small metal objects. Such magnets are sold in hardware stores for storing knives.
Mini spice racks 
Not only jars of spices, but also bottles of lotions and shampoos look great on such shelves. In addition, they take up very little space and can be placed in any corner of the bathroom. Paint the shelves white and remove everything that is on the sink.
Way up 
Another space that is rarely used is the space above the bathroom door. You can hang a super-tall large shelf there. It will become a new element of door decor and give your bathroom an original look. And most importantly, a lot can fit there!
Do-it-yourself utility yard at the dacha, with an almost “empty” pocket.
There are probably such dachas ( garden plots) at which there is a “dark” angle. A “dark” corner where no one sets foot, scraps of old materials accumulate there, things that we will definitely throw away “this week” when we leave, etc. In general, the place disappears, and there is no room to cut anything. And finally, a strong-willed decision is made to put an end to this “dark corner” and use the vacated space for something useful, for example, for a utility yard. Which, of course, can itself gradually turn into a “dark” corner. But now we’re not talking about that, but about the utility yard.
We decided to get rid of the “dark” corner and make a covered utility yard with our own hands. The main condition is that everything should be as cheap and practical as possible.
The first question is how to arrange the floor (platform).
They immediately refused to fill the site with concrete. Expensive, labor-intensive, no possibility of further redevelopment of the site in case of possible demolition of the utility yard. Dismantle the concrete platform... You understand. We thought about using double wooden flooring as the floor. Not edged board treated with kuzbaslak or waste (used machine oil) is laid directly on leveled ground. A 50mm x 50mm beam is laid on it. processed edged board on top. To this wooden floor it will be possible to screw on any workbench - this is an advantage. Then they changed their minds, for what reason I can’t remember now. After some further thought, they decided to make the floor out of paving slabs. The advantage is that cleaning such a floor is easy, no additional treatment is required; if one tile breaks, we remove it and simply put a new one in its place. Dismantling in case of demolition of a utility yard is as simple as shelling pears, collect the tiles and everything, and then they can be used again. The gender has been decided.
The second question is how to lay the tiles.
According to the rules, you need to select the soil, make a sand cushion of 40 centimeters, compact the sand with a vibrating plate or a piece of log with a crossbar-handle attached on top. This is of course ideal, but again it turned out to be expensive. You need a lot of sand for a sand bed. And the prospect of dragging sand from one end of the site to the other in the amount of one or two dump trucks, to put it mildly, was not encouraging. In addition, several years earlier we had already made paths according to the rules: sand cushion, compaction, tiles. But, apparently, over time, the sand mixed with the soil (peat) and the paths slowly began to creep apart. Four years passed from the moment of installation to the first attempts. Therefore, we decided to do it outside the rules. Lay the tiles directly on the ground. Well, even if the tiles start to creep apart, you won’t have to worry too much about the considerable material and labor costs.
How to make a platform from tiles.
Leveled the soil with a shovel. The selected soil was placed nearby. After the area became more or less level, we sprayed it well with water from a hose. When the water went into the ground, but the ground was still wet, they simply walked and jumped on this site in rubber boots. Irregularities appeared. They took the selected soil, scattered it around the site, leveled it with the butt of a rake, again poured it well and trampled it down. Do this several times until the area becomes relatively level. To be fair, it is worth noting that at first they tried to lay a reinforcing layer under the tiles in order to minimize possible creep, but then they abandoned this idea. If you are interested, read about this unsuccessful attempt at the end of the article, in the footnote. For now we continue. It took us a day and a half to prepare the entire site. Next, they began to lay the tiles directly on the leveled ground. Since we, of course, did not achieve a perfectly flat and evenly compacted surface, when laying each tile, as necessary, the soil was either removed from under the tile, or, on the contrary, poured into in the right place. These finishing manipulations were carried out with an ordinary children's scoop. For finishing, the scoop turned out to be very convenient tool. So in about a day, we laid the tiles. It seems that it turned out quite acceptable.
They decided to make the utility yard a frame type without clapboard covering, i.e. summer option. It was decided to cover the frame with thick reinforced polyethylene. In such a utility yard there will be light and natural lighting, which is important in case of a possible power outage. The frame, according to the plan, is built from timber with a cross-section of 50mm x 50mm. Along the edge of our tiled floor, a continuous frame was made from timber. Vertical posts were attached to this harness at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from each other. At a height of a little over a meter they made additional strapping. And the third harness is under the roof itself. The timber was specially sewn together with a 150 mm nail. The ends of the nails were bent. They changed their mind about wrapping the frame with reinforced polyethylene. Because knowledgeable people, who have greenhouses on their property, said that the maximum service life of polyethylene, even reinforced polyethylene, is 3 years. Wind, temperature changes, birds do their job and gradually the film breaks. This statement was not tested in practice. The frame was covered with carbon plastic. Karboplast is a material made, as it seemed to us, from thin layered polyethylene. The strength of this material is much higher. Self-tapping screws with polyethylene washers were used for fastening to the frame. Such washers are used when covering the roof soft roof, for example - ondulin.
The rafters were also made from fifties timber. The sheathing was made from old 10 mm plywood. The sheathing is not solid. The roof was covered with ondulin.
At the end I would like to add. Our household yard has successfully survived summer, autumn and winter, spring, another summer, autumn and now another winter is coming... The tiles have not yet begun to sag, despite the work being done.
The utility yard itself.
Floor and side wall frame.
Floor and wall frame.
Roof frame.
The frame of the utility yard.
Completed utility yard.
Built and lined utility yard inside.
Not a successful experience in strengthening paving slab paths using old tires.
I would like to note right away that perhaps failure befell us not because of the method used (found on the Internet), but because of crooked hands. However... On the Internet we found this way to strengthen garden paths. The point is this. We take the old ones car tires, cut off the sidewalls, cut the remaining circle in half and get a thick rubber band. The tape is laid on the ground, and paving slabs are laid on this tape. Tiles on such a non-wearing tape base will not crawl. We found this method to be excellent. We got hold of some old tires and... We tried to cut them with metal scissors, in vain. After that, they took a grinder and cut the tires with a grinder. The process itself was scary. The smell of burning rubber, melted rubber flying in different directions... In general, the old tires were cut. We laid out rubber bands on the site, but they turned out to be uneven. In cross-section, this tape is an arc. If you stack these strips one next to the other, the coating turns out soft and wavy. The tiles on this surface move as they please. Several tiles simply broke. We removed these rubber tracks and laid the tiles in the manner described above.
That's it.
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In order for livestock and poultry to survive even the harshest winter months, the owner will have to work hard in the fall. The best month for preparatory work October is considered. It is necessary to prepare food and insulate the habitats of animals. To do this, develop an action plan in advance and purchase all the necessary materials.
Rules for food procurement
Animals can cope with frost only if they have sufficient nutrition. You need to think about preparing feed in advance. During the haymaking period, a sufficient amount of hay is harvested and dried.
In October, food is prepared from the remains of the harvest from the garden. Potatoes, zucchini, corn, carrots, greens and even weeds remaining after the final weeding are suitable. They are suitable for rabbits, goats, sheep and chickens.
To prepare the feed, all selected plants are crushed and placed in a prepared pit. Processing occurs through lactic acid fermentation. The herbal mixture must be sufficiently wet for the process to begin. If necessary, you can add cucumbers or zucchini. But do not overdo it, excess moisture will lead to loss of feed quality.
The filled pit must be covered. After four weeks, the food is checked for readiness. If it smells like fresh kvass or apples, then it is ready to eat.
How to prepare chickens for winter?
Chickens spend the winter in equipped. If it is arranged incorrectly, the bird will die. When insulating a chicken coop, follow these recommendations:
- The walls, floor and ceiling are covered with some kind of material, for example, shingles, polystyrene foam or specialized insulation. You can also use thick sheets of plywood.
- The walls must be plastered. A mixture of clay, water and sawdust is used as a solution. The thickness of the applied layer must be at least 3 cm. If cracks appear after the base layer has dried, then apply the plaster again.
- If chickens do not have enough calcium in winter, they will begin to peck at the plaster. Covering the lower part of the wall with plastic panels will help prevent this.
- This will help chickens survive severe frosts. This device is considered safe and highly effective. It consumes a minimal amount of electricity.
- The floor of the chicken coop is covered with sawdust, peat, leaves or straw. This will prevent you from having to scoop up bird droppings every day. The thickness of the bedding layer must be at least 25 cm.
For the chickens to lay eggs winter period, they need to be fed twice a day, morning and evening.
Mix industrial feed with prepared silage. You can add 30 grams of yeast diluted in one and a half liters of water to the food. This will increase egg production.
Preparing livestock for wintering
Livestock are kept in spacious barns during the winter months. October is the ideal time to prepare your room for cold weather. In this case, the following rules must be observed:
- All the cracks in the shed are carefully caulked. Make sure there are no cracks in window frames and door jambs. They should close tightly. The doors are insulated using straw mats.
- The roof is carefully examined for leaks, cracks and other damage. If necessary, repair work is carried out.
- Stalls and feeders require disinfection. To do this, they are first cleaned mechanically and then treated with specialized means.
- Particular attention is paid to the organization of litter. It is recommended to use peat, straw or sawdust for this. As a last resort, dry leaves or spruce branches are used. Before laying, the straw must be chopped so that the size of the pieces does not exceed 25 cm.
In addition to arranging the barn, you need to take care of a place for animals to walk in the winter. If there is not a lot of livestock, then a plot of 100 square meters will be enough. Fence it around. In winter, cattle only need to walk for a couple of hours.
How to create comfortable conditions for rabbits?
Experts recommend keeping rabbits outside in insulated cages in winter. This way the animals will get enough fresh air, their immunity will be strengthened, the likelihood of developing infectious diseases. When organizing a home for rabbits, consider the following recommendations:
- The cages must be raised above ground level by at least 80 cm. They are installed on wooden poles, on which the boards are laid. It is recommended to cover the outside of the structure with sheets of metal.
- The space between the walls and the cage is filled with insulating material. You can use straw, moss, dry leaves or small branches. It is also permissible to use building thermal insulation materials.
- The space under the floor of the cages can be insulated with old quilted jackets, blankets and other unnecessary things.
- Artificial heating is not necessary. It is enough to fill most of the internal space with chopped hay. Rabbits themselves warm the air with their breath.
Proper preparation of the yard for winter will allow animals to winter peacefully. If you follow all the recommendations, chickens will lay eggs, cows and goats will give milk, and rabbits will bear offspring.
Work in the apiary in October - video
If you got small kitchen, start “stretching” it at the planning stage. What are you willing to sacrifice for additional kitchen space? A wall? A full table? A couple of burners or a windowsill for growing geraniums? We have selected a dozen really working techniques that, even if they cannot add square meters your kitchen, then at least they will allow you to find a place for an extra plate. And at the same time, they transform your attitude towards cramped spaces.
1. Use an open floor plan whenever possible.
The wisdom is completely obvious, but let’s not be afraid to be banal: the same furniture, built in spaces of different sizes, will look completely different. The trendy open space layout is good primarily for small apartments, where literally every centimeter of space can be loaded with several functions. The absence of partitions between the kitchen and the room allows you to place more furniture in the same volume and find space for an additional area, for example, a dining room.
2. Fight for a place under the window
Ignoring the window sill space in a small kitchen is an unaffordable luxury. Part of the kitchen line will be perfectly placed under the window (and we remember that a sink with a view of the city or courtyard is not only a way to save electricity by using daylight, but also a chic means for meditation), or, at worst, just open shelves .
3. Replace the table with a bar counter
If there is not enough space in the kitchen, refuse a separate dining area, replacing it with a light bar counter. Such a design can be a separate element of the decor, or it can continue work area(as in the photo), saving even more space. In the room with open plan the bar counter also often acts as a zoning barrier, separating the kitchen and living room.
Advice:
For a compact kitchen, it is best to choose a bar counter with a light, airy design that will not visually burden the space. Or, on the contrary, a solid one, but with storage space inside.
4. You can never have too many closets
Since we have decided to use every centimeter of space wisely, we should not neglect the opportunity to place an additional cabinet or shelf. Built-in shelving under the bar counter and ceiling-high cabinets will help hide a lot of things. There are even special plinth boxes that allow you to use the space under kitchen cabinets, near the floor.
5. Hide your equipment
Built-in appliances significantly optimize the kitchen space - for example, it allows you to space more convenient places hob and an oven, use a two-burner stove, hide the oven, dishwasher and refrigerator in a tall cabinet. Built-in appliances take up slightly less space, but the main thing is that they behave quite modestly: they do not violate the external integrity of the set - they are hidden under the countertop and behind cabinet doors, without interfering with the design.
6. Design narrow cabinets, but don't forget about appliances
If you are making a custom kitchen, get the cabinets custom size won't be difficult. But choosing and buying equipment that matches their size will be much more difficult. Some manufacturers have models of reduced dimensions, but their price is higher than regular ones. So if you decide to save space by using the width of the cabinets, first select the appropriate “filling” for the kitchen. Width of typical narrow household appliances- 45 cm, but they are almost never built-in.
8. Engage the corners
The most economical (in terms of space) layout - corner kitchen, but only if you use the corner space wisely. We recommend that you take a closer look at the pictures in the catalog of the kitchen program you like. IN modern kitchens proposed large selection technological solutions, allowing you to easily remove any item from the voluminous corner box. Rotating and sliding shelves can roll out on their own when the door is opened; carousel shelves do not have “far corners”. And such drawers, as in the photo, generally use every centimeter of the allotted space.
9. Open shelves are airy and ergonomic
Open shelves have a lot of advantages: they take up little space and can have any configuration. They can easily fill a non-standard opening or an empty corner. Plus, open shelves look lighter than wall cabinets and visually make the kitchen more spacious. The advantages of ergonomics are also obvious - you just need to stretch out your hand to take what you need. On such shelves it is convenient to store items that are constantly needed: spices, dishes, cutlery. Open shelves have only one drawback, but it is quite significant - they will have to be washed more often than regular cabinets. Items that stand on open shelves for a long time inevitably become greasy, so it is better to store rarely used items in closets.
Advice:
If you arrange lighting under open shelves, it will add additional volume to the room.
10. Don't forget about the roof rails
Railing is another controversial element of kitchen improvement. When we finally got used to using hooks for their intended purpose, designers completely stopped loving hanging kitchen utensils on the wall. While aesthetics struggles with expediency, we still recommend considering this option. In a small kitchen where cabinet space and closet space is limited, hanging a piece of equipment from the backsplash is a very tempting move. Removing a ladle from a hook or unsticking a knife from a magnet is much more convenient than climbing into drawers. The main thing is not to overdo it. Unfortunately, a kitchen overly hung with objects and accessories may seem visually overloaded.
11. Increase visual volume
The kitchen space can be “stretched” not only physically, but also visually, making it lighter, lighter and more voluminous. Preferred light color walls and furniture, glossy and reflective surfaces, minimum decorative details. It is highly recommended to illuminate the most remote corners, any openings and niches - all this makes the kitchen more spacious in the eyes of visitors and gives it a modern, fashionable and beautiful look.
12. Backlight - protector of little ones
In a small kitchen, lighting is as important as air: small individual lamps, built into elements of kitchen structures, will make the room larger and more comfortable, and work in the kitchen more comfortable and safer. These can be spotlights, large chandeliers, LED backlight and even duralight.