The order of wall cladding 1. Preparation of the base and tiles. The technology for preparing the base and tiles for wall cladding is described in the relevant sections of the second chapter. Here we just recall that the tiles are sorted by size and pattern and then laid out dry,

Features of wall cladding using the seam-to-seam method When facing seam-to-seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are arranged one after another without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form uniform horizontal and vertical

Peculiarities of wall cladding in a staggered way When cladding in a staggered manner, the tiles of the next row are arranged with an offset relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. The seams of the even rows form their intermittent

Features of diagonal cladding With diagonal cladding, tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45° (Fig. 12). Figure 12. Diagonal cladding

Features of seamless cladding With seamless cladding, the tiles are adjacent to each other closely. This method is used when the lining is made of corrugated or patterned tiles. To make the seam as less noticeable as possible, the edges of the tiles are sometimes even stitched. How

Repair of surfaces lined with sheets of dry plaster The main disadvantage of surfaces lined with sheets of dry plaster is that there is an empty space between them and the surface with a thickness of 20–30 mm or more. Because of this, the sheets in places

The use of drywall for leveling floors and walls Screeding and plastering are by no means the only ways to prepare the base for laying ceramic tiles. Another very common method, the popularity of which is gradually increasing,

As a rule, for high-quality repairs, it is necessary to create the most smooth and even surfaces of the ceiling and walls. This can be done with the help of drywall sheets. Today we will consider what types of fastening drywall to the wall exist. And how to fix drywall on a wall without a profile.

Mounting types

Drywall fasteners to the wall are selected according to the goals and the state of the base base. It is possible to fix a drywall sheet with both frame and frameless methods. Each of these types has its own characteristics and advantages.

The frame method is relevant in such cases as:

• Alignment of the large curvature of the walls, the creation of geometric structures, niches;
• In cases where you need to create thermal insulation or hide communications behind the skin.

The main disadvantage of this method is the reduction of usable area. In addition, do not forget that for its implementation you will need screws, profiles and additional tools.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile (frameless method) does not significantly change the volume of the room, but is performed when the surface is relatively flat and it is not planned to be insulated.

The main advantages of this method are the simplicity and fast installation, low cost.

Attention! It is impossible to carry out the installation of GKL if moisture accumulates on the walls or there are areas affected by the fungus. The surface must be dry and the fungus removed. At high humidity indoors worth buying moisture resistant type drywall.

How to cut drywall

To do this, we need a level, a tape measure, a pencil and a paint knife. How to cut drywall is easier to illustrate in the photo.

We measure with a tape measure exactly to the millimeter. We mark the marks of the future cut on the drywall with a pencil. mark 0.5 cm less than measured, so that there are no problems in mounting the sheet.

We apply a level and cut a straight line with a knife.

We break the sheet along the line and cut through the paper layer on the other side.

How to fix the sheet without first mounting the frame?

Consider ways to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. In practice, several options are used to level the wall with drywall without a profile:

• Dowels or screws.
• Gluing (gypsum or cement glue).

Installation of HL with self-tapping screws and dowels

It is recommended to sheathe the walls using self-tapping screws in cases where the base itself has a wooden (OSB, plywood, timber) or gypsum surface. Consider step by step how to screw drywall to the wall using self-tapping screws:

1. All speeches on wooden partitions removed with a specially designed tool (hatchet or chisel with a hammer). If you need to level the foam concrete wall, you can use a puncher.
2. If the wall is made of osb, plywood, or timber, then the hl is fastened directly to the wall. Installation is carried out with self-tapping screws on a tree with a length of 2.5 cm.
3. Sheets are fixed with hardware in checkerboard pattern with a step of about 25 cm. The self-tapping screw, or rather its hat, should be slightly “drowned” in the material. Between the sheets we leave a deformation gap of 2-3 mm.

The main thing is not to overdo it. A strong tightening of the screws may twist through, or the HL may crack.

I do not recommend such a method as mounting on dowels. But if there is no way out and the surface is relatively flat, then you can resort to this method.

The option for attaching the HL to the dowels is as follows:

1. A sheet is installed on a leveled base without defects.
2. A hole is drilled through it and a plastic part is inserted.
3. Then the dowel-nail itself is twisted with a screwdriver.

How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles: gluing technology

Attention! The temperature regime of the room should also be taken into account, it should not be lower than +10 degrees Celsius. At lower rates, you will need to worry about heating the room.

When installing drywall directly on the wall using gluing technology, careful surface preparation is required. It consists in dismantling wallpaper, parts of peeling paint or plaster, sealing cracks, applying a primer with an antiseptic (preferably in two layers).

Pull the thread or use laser level to understand how curved the surface is and what layer of glue we need. If the wall is even, then you can glue drywall under a special spatula (comb). But usually the walls are very curved and you will need to apply glue buns.

It can be used as a gypsum special adhesive (it dries very quickly), or you can use tile adhesive (you can work with it for a long time). For one batch of glue, it is recommended to install no more than two sheets of drywall.

Glue buns are superimposed at a distance of 30 cm from each other. A sheet of hl is applied and a little tapped and a level is applied. By the level, we determine how evenly the sheet is pasted, apply it in different directions and planes so that there are no deflections of the sheet. At the edges, we hammer glue into the resulting cracks. Let's start gluing the next sheet. Do not forget to leave a small gap of 2-3 mm between the sheets for subsequent finishing.

After the glue has completely dried, the sheets can be doweled

How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile: summing up

This method of installing sheets allows you to quickly level the surface without using a profile and save on the purchase of materials and work. You can fix the material on the base surface using hardware or applying an adhesive mass. The easiest way is if you have a wooden flat surface - just apply and twist. Gluing drywall - requires a certain skill, and if we use gypsum glue, then the speed of work.

1. We prepare the surface
2. We apply glue
3. apply sheet
4. align it

After installing drywall sheets, you can seal the seams and proceed with the subsequent finishing.

You will do the right thing if you make a choice in favor of drywall for interior wall decoration. At the same time, not all home craftsmen understand how to properly mount this material. After reading the article, you will learn how to properly finish the walls with drywall with your own hands.

Finishing technology

Wall cladding with drywall is conditionally divided into five stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials and tools

Drywall for interior wall decoration of the house exists different types, therefore, it is necessary to approach its choice wisely. The main parameters by which this material differs are as follows:

• thickness- for walls it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm;

• moisture resistance- the choice depends on the type of room. If you plan to finish the bathroom or kitchen, you should use moisture-resistant KGLV drywall. For "dry" rooms, ordinary drywall is suitable .

In addition to drywall, you will need some other materials:

• frame elements are PS and PN profiles, as well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• sickle mesh;
• putty - starting and finishing. The latter is only needed if you plan to paint the walls.

As for the tools, the set should be as follows:

• electric drill;
• metal scissors;
• mounting knife;
• screwdriver;
• paint cord;
• building level;
• a set of spatulas;
• rule;
• a set of grids for grinding with a jointer;
• roller with a cuvette.

After preparing all the tools, you can get to work.

Stage 2: marking the wall

Before finishing the walls with drywall, they must be marked out. Otherwise, the surface of the walls may turn out to be uneven.

The markup is applied like this:

1. First of all, put on the ceiling the location line of the guide profile along the wall that you will sheathe the GKL. The line must be located at least 40 mm from the wall. If you plan to insulate walls, then the distance must be increased by the thickness of the insulation.
   To get a straight line on the ceiling, step back from opposite corners an equal distance and mark the points. Then fix the masking cord between these points, pull it down slightly, and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling, and leave a trail in the form of a straight line;

1. the line obtained on the ceiling must be transferred to the floor so that it is located in the same vertical plane. To do this, you can use a plumb line, with which several points on the floor are indicated. Then these points are connected by a line.
   Instead of a plumb line, you can use a building level, with which vertical lines are drawn from the line on the ceiling on two opposite adjacent walls. Further, these verticals are connected by a line on the floor;

1. now you need to do the markup with your own hands directly on the wall that you will sheathe the GKL, indicating the location of the PS profiles. To do this, step back from the corner of 10 cm and draw vertical lines in 60 cm increments;

1. on the resulting vertical lines, mark the location of the suspensions. They must be installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

According to this scheme, you need to mark up all the walls that you are going to finish the plasterboard.

Stage 3: frame assembly

The process of assembling the frame is quite simple, besides, the following step-by-step instructions will help you with this:

1. first of all, cut the guide profiles along the length of the wall;

1. then fasten the profiles according to the markings on the wall and floor with dowel-nails;
2. then you need to fix the hangers on the wall using the dowel-nails. If walls from foam blocks are finished with drywall, it is necessary to use special fasteners designed for porous ones, as in the photo below;

1. then it is necessary to cut the PP profiles along the height of the walls, then insert them into the guides and fix them in the hangers. Be aware that profiles can sag. Therefore, they must be aligned by applying the rule.

So that all PS profiles are located in the same plane, i.e. to make the wall even, first install the racks that are extreme from the corners, and then pull the cords between them. On them, as on beacons, align the intermediate racks;

1. now you need to fix the jumpers between the racks. To do this, the profiles need to be cut, as shown in the photo above.
   To give the wall the greatest strength, arrange the jumpers in a checkerboard pattern in 50 cm increments.

AT wooden house before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, it is necessary to treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation. This will protect them from decay and other biological negative effects.

According to this scheme, you need to sheathe all the walls in the room.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

The next step is the cladding of the GKL walls. To do this, you will first have to cut out individual sheets, taking into account the size and characteristics of the walls.

GKL is cut quite simply:

1. mark the cut line by marking several points;
2. attach a rule to the line;
3. cut the cardboard with a mounting knife along the line along the rule;

1. break the sheet and cut the cardboard along the fold line.

Finishing walls with drywall is quite simple - the sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. However, some nuances must be taken into account:

• the edges of the GKL should fall on the center of the profile. There should be no “hanging” edges, otherwise the finish will crack in these areas over time;

• self-tapping screws should be located in increments of 25 cm;
• the caps of the self-tapping screws must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with the further finishing of the drywall.

Frame wooden walls can be sheathed with plasterboard without arranging an additional frame made of profiles. In this case, the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws directly to the supporting structure.

Given these points, it is necessary to sheathe all the walls.

Stage 5: drywall roughing

The final stage is the rough finishing of drywall, which is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, cut the chamfers from the joints of the sheets with a width of five millimeters. If the edge of the sheet is rounded, then the chamfer, of course, does not need to be cut off;

1. then it is necessary to stick a sickle on all joints;
2. then prime the surface with a paint roller. Apply the primer in an even thin film. If necessary, hard-to-reach places prime with a paint brush.

After drying the surface of the walls, apply the primer again;

1. now it is necessary to putty the joints of the sheets and caps of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty. For these purposes, you can use a narrow spatula.

Try to apply the putty carefully to get as smooth a surface as possible;

1. after the putty has dried, treat it with a brush;

1. then the walls must be covered with a starting layer of putty, using a wide spatula. The filling technique is described in detail in other articles on our resource dedicated to this topic.

In the process of applying the starting layer, plaster corners must be glued to all outer corners, which will protect them from chipping;

1. after the putty has dried, the surface must be sanded with a P120 mesh stretched over a jointer. Make circular motions with the tool. This will get rid of all significant irregularities;
2. sanded walls must be cleaned of dust, and then primed again;
3. if you plan to glue wallpaper on the walls or, for example, apply decorative plaster, then work on this can be stopped. If the walls are to be painted, it is also necessary to apply a thin layer of finishing putty.

The principle of puttying in this case remains the same, with the only difference that the “finish” must be applied even more carefully;

1. the finish layer must be sanded with a mesh with fine abrasive. The work must be done very carefully so that the surface of the walls is perfectly smooth. Therefore, work must be done in bright light.
   To check the quality of grinding, bring a bright lamp under the walls to the walls. acute angle. This will allow you to notice even the smallest flaws on the walls.

Wall sanding is a very dusty job. Therefore, when starting this procedure, be sure to protect your respiratory organs with a bandage or respirator, and also wear safety glasses.

This completes the interior plasterboard finish.

A few words about the frameless installation of drywall

Apart from frame technology installation of gypsum boards, which we reviewed above, there is still a technology that does not require the installation of a frame. Its principle lies in the fact that GKL sheets are simply glued to the walls using special glue or even starting putty.

This technology can be used if the walls are relatively even. As a result, work is carried out much faster, moreover, the space of the room is practically not reduced.

At the same time, the frameless technology for finishing walls with drywall has some disadvantages:

• does not allow to insulate the walls from the inside, as well as to hide communications between the wall and the gypsum plasterboard;
• requires preparation of the surface of the walls. Before making a frame, as we found out, it is not necessary to prepare the walls. Therefore, the frameless mounting method is not always faster than the framed one.

Therefore, when choosing a technology, you should consider all the pros and cons.

The process of installing GKL using this technology is as follows:

1. work begins with the preparation of the walls. At this stage, remove the old finish coat. If there are areas with peeling or crumbling plaster on the walls, they must also be removed;

1. then the surface of the walls should be cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush, and then wiped with a damp cloth;
2. Next, the walls need to be primed. If the surface is smooth, such as concrete, an adhesive primer must be used. If the walls are plastered, priming is done with a deep penetration primer;

1. while the primer on the walls dries, apply the primer on back side GKL;
2. after the primer dries, you can start gluing the sheets. To do this, glue or starting putty is applied to their back side in lumps, which are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the sheet.

1. after pasting the walls with drywall, a rough surface finish is performed according to the scheme described above.

Conclusion

You learned from the article that the technology for finishing GKL walls is quite simple, although it is not without some subtleties. For more information, I suggest watching the video in this article. If you don’t understand some points or encountered any difficulties in the process of work, write your questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The frameless method of fixing gypsum boards on uneven walls has its advantages. For the durability of the structure, the adhesive mixture, the gluing method are selected correctly and the whole process is performed according to the given algorithm.

How to glue drywall to a wall

Sheathing of walls and ceiling with drywall is carried out to level the surface.

To do this, create a frame base of profiles and other materials. However, to level the walls, there is a method of wall cladding without a frame. How to glue drywall to a wall using the right glue can be found in this article.

Cladding with plasterboard sheets: advantages

Facing with GK-sheets is carried out in the following cases:

• surface leveling;
• improved heat and sound insulation;
• hide wires and pipes;
• surface decoration - the creation of niches, shelves, design decoration with curly elements.

The plasterboard sheet has a flat surface, when mounted on a wall, it does not deform, but remains flat. This is convenient for subsequent painting, tiling, wallpapering.

in various rooms with high humidity and high temperature the following types of GCR are used:

1. An ordinary room with moderate temperature differences is a gray GKL sheet.
2. Wet room: bathroom, corridor in a private house, balcony, attic, kitchen - green leaf GKLV.
3. A room with a working fireplace, a Russian stove, with a rough stove - pink GKLO.

On the construction market there are types of floor drywall and facade for working on the street.

There are methods for attaching sheets to the surface - frame and without frame. In the first case, profiles are applicable. For the second method, you need to choose the right adhesive composition.

Advantages of gluing GKL to the surface:

• installation is easy and fast;
• less expensive method in comparison with the wireframe;
• this method does not take extra centimeters.

The negative side is the inability to hide wires and communications behind the skin.

When can drywall be glued to a wall without a profile

You can glue GK-sheets in the following situations:

• small rooms where every centimeter of space is important;
• the unevenness of the wall is up to 5 cm;
• when gluing drywall to the ceiling, you need to pick up good glue and make additional fixation with self-tapping screws;
• slope finishing.

In a large room with large wall irregularities, the frameless method is not practical.

Can it be used on uneven walls

One of simple ways align the “falling” wall - sheathe it with drywall on a pre-made frame.

If the difference in the unevenness of the wall is small, the method of gluing sheets is used. To use this technology, you need to familiarize yourself with the nuances and rules.

1. It is necessary to select the type of gypsum and adhesive composition in accordance with the humidity and temperature regime in the room.
2. The frameless method is applicable if the wall has an unevenness of a maximum of 5 cm.
3. During installation, follow step by step instructions in compliance with all rules.
4. For the selection of glue, you need to pay attention to the material of the draft wall.

Subject to all the rules, the installation of GKL on glue will be easy and will serve for a long time.

How to choose the right GKL glue for gypsum gluing

Plasterboard wall cladding is carried out by choosing the right adhesive. The mixture is selected according to environmental factors. Stroy market offers mixtures of:

1. Gypsum glue "Perlfix" manufacturer KNAUF or "Volma-montazh".
2. Plaster based on gypsum: "Start", "Finish".
3. Putty on a plaster basis "Knauf-fugen".
4. Tile adhesive "Ceresit-SM 11". This is a cement composition with fillers.
5. Silicone sealant made of acrylic and polyurethane, "liquid nails", mounting adhesive mixture. These mixtures are used for flat surfaces or for gluing sheet to sheet.
6. Mounting foam. The composition is selected with the coefficient "min".

Sealants are mainly used on a brick, concrete wall, foam block.

Is it possible to stick on mounting foam

There are 2 ways to stick a sheet of material to the wall on the foam:

1. First, the plasterboard is fixed to the wall with dowel-nails, then holes are made and the void under the plaster is filled through them.
2. Apply foam to the sheet and stick it to the wall.

First method

The material is placed on a flat horizontal surface. 9-12 holes are drilled in it. After the GKL with holes, they are applied to the wall and everything is marked drilled holes pencil. On the rough surface, the holes for the dowels are brightened.

The GK-sheet is fastened with dowel-nails. It is not necessary to screw the screw all the way in. It is necessary to achieve evenness of the vertically placed material, therefore, when screwing in, they use a level. When the sheet is exposed, foam is let in through the holes.

Second method

If the wall is even, then the foam is applied to the horizontally lying GKL. After that, the sheet is applied to the wall, leveled and pressed to fight the foam with the surface.

Mounting foam increases by 2-3 times. Therefore, the agent is chosen with the lowest expansion coefficient, and also during drying, the condition of the plasterboard on the wall is constantly checked.

Is it possible to glue plasterboard on tile adhesive

GCR is glued to tile adhesive, but if the wall has irregularities up to 1 cm. If the irregularity is more than 1 cm, the adhesive will eventually fall off along with the drywall sheet.

For greater strength, drywall sheets are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails.

If you need to make a double cladding of the GKL, then gluing the first layer, put glue 0.3-0.5 mm thick, after complete drying, the same amount of glue is applied for the second GKL. A prerequisite is additional fixation with self-tapping screws.

Foam block wall adhesive

The best option for choosing an adhesive for a foam block wall is Perlfix. Holes are made in the GK sheet at a distance of 40 cm with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm. Glue is applied to the wall. Then, immediately, GKL is glued. Excess glue will come out through the holes made. It is removed with a spatula. In this way, additional reinforcement is achieved.

From polystyrene concrete

Polystyrene concrete - made from cement, foam beads, quartz sand and additives. On the wall of this composition, it is necessary to apply adhesive mixtures on cement base with fillers. There is a negative point at the base - it freezes through. Therefore, for the strength of holding the wall finish, it must be additionally fixed with dowel-nails.

For wooden walls

Facing wooden walls produced in this way:

1. Treatment of wood with an antiseptic.
2. Setting beacons for the evenness of the overlay sheet.
3. From beacons 30 cm holes are made and a plastic sleeve is inserted from the dowel-nail.
4. GK-sheets are glued to the adhesive mixture. Additionally, fix the dowel-nails.

Attention. Before using glue, it is necessary to cover the rough surface with a primer.

For brick and concrete walls

GKL on walls made of brick, concrete is fixed in 4 ways:

1. Glue fixing.
2. Facing with mounting foam.
3. Using self tapping screws.
4. Fixing the dowel-nails.

The choice of method depends on the curvature of the wall and on the humidity.

Concrete wall. Basically, it is even - cement-based glue is used. For better adhesion, notches are made on the wall, covered with a primer, and then GKL is fixed.

Brick wall. fixation facing material produce on mounting foam. Applying foam to the sheet with a snake allows you to control the amount of applied product. After applying the foam to the sheet, wait 2-3 minutes. When the foam begins to expand, the sheet is applied to the wall and leveled.

For mounting on brick wall use foam for mounting polystyrene foam. It does not expand as much as other counterparts.

Preparing a drywall wall: what do you need?

To fix the GKL to the wall, materials and tools are needed:

• The selected type of drywall is moisture resistant, ordinary.
• Dowel-nails, self-tapping screws.
• Selected adhesive for fixing sheets.
• Perforator, construction mixer.
• plumb, rule, sharp knife, level.
• Container for preparing glue, spatula.
• Primer, roller, brush.

After collecting necessary tools, as well as the acquisition of all materials, it is necessary to prepare a rough surface.

1. Clean the wall of the old cladding, wallpaper, paint.
2. Existing gaps must be reinforced and putty. Seal all holes with a mortar based on cement or gypsum.
3. The surface is coated with a primer.

When the primer dries, prepare gypsum boards. They cut out holes for switch sockets.

For high-quality wall decoration, you need to properly prepare the adhesive mixture:

• The specified amount of water is poured into a clean container.
• Pour a little dry mixture into the water and mix.
• After that, pour the indicated amount of dry mixture and slowly mix with a mixer.

For getting homogeneous mass You don't need to set the mixer to high speed. This will create a lot of air bubbles in the solution.

• After obtaining a homogeneous mass, a small amount of PVA is poured into the glue and mixed again.

After kneading, the solution must stand for at least 5 minutes to completely dissolve the additives and obtain elasticity.

Gluing plaster to the wall with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Having prepared the draft walls and the solution for fixing the GKL, you can proceed with the installation. There are 3 methods for gluing sheets:

1. Application of adhesive in a continuous layer with a notched trowel. Used for concrete walls.
2. Apply glue in small piles.
3. Use of beacons and lining of foam (gypsum pieces). For very uneven walls.

Each method is applicable according to the evenness of the draft wall.

Sticker of the first sheets

A drywall sheet is placed on long wooden slats opposite the place where it will be fixed. An adhesive composition is applied to the sheet in a continuous layer or in heaps.

After that, the GKL with glue is carefully lifted to the wall. Wires are threaded through the holes. The sheet is raised above the floor by 10 mm - for this you can put a piece of drywall. Apply close to the wall and level. Evenness is measured by the level, the rule along the diagonal, vertically and horizontally. After setting the GCR is pressed against the wall and once again checked for evenness. Glued drywall must be fixed with props.

The second sheet is glued only after the glue has set under the first sheet. The balance is on him.

Corner plastering

wall pasting finishing material begin with inner corner. On an adjacent wall, drywall is glued with an overlap.

To glue the outer corner, you need to measure the distance from the corner to the glued sheet and carefully cut off the measured distance from the whole GKL. This cut-out part with glue is applied to the corner and leveled according to the level, plumb.

The next cut out part is placed on the corner so that it covers the end of the drywall glued to the 900 corner.

Grouting

After facing the wall and completely drying the glue, it is necessary to carry out a series of works to reinforce the joints. For this:

1. Cover the entire surface with a primer. All joints are primed with a brush.
2. After the primer mixture has dried, putty for joints is applied to the joints. A reinforcing tape is glued on it and covered with the same putty on top. If self-tapping screws or dowel-nails were used, then all fasteners are closed with the same solution.
3. When the putty dries, grout with sandpaper to remove all small extra particles of putty and even out the seams.

The last stage is puttying the entire surface and priming before finishing.

What can be glued on smooth plasterboard walls

Plasterboard walls are decorated to your liking. If these are the walls in the bathroom, they glue the tiles. If there is wallpaper in the room or decorative plaster is applied, painting is less common.

Glue drywall to uneven wall you can, if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances and rules of work. Following a clear algorithm, choosing the right adhesive, the GKL construction will last up to 15 years.

Useful video

Plastering does not give the desired result. Therefore, pre-cladding of the walls with drywall is required. The technology of this stage repair work quite simple, but has certain nuances. Plasterboard finishing has become very popular.

Material Advantages

Thanks to the use of drywall at the same time:

• Irregularities are eliminated, and an ideal surface for further finishing is created.
• Improved sound insulation.
• The walls are insulated.
• Communications are masked.

Opportunity appears design decoration premises:

• Niche creation.
• Ledges.
• Apertures and partitions.
• Their decoration.

The use of various types of GKL:

Note. GKL - drywall. The meanings of the letters at the end: "B" - waterproof, "O" - fire resistant.In other rooms, it is recommended to veneer with ordinary plasterboard sheets (GKL).

Cladding technologies

This is the most acceptable material when work needs to be done quickly. The technology of wall cladding with plasterboard allows you to create separate wall structures that close pipelines and electrical wiring.

There are two main methods of facing internal surfaces with drywall:

• Frameless, when sheets are attached to glue or putty.
• Framewhen the material is screwed to a metal profile.
• When choosing the first option, metal profiles are not used.

Note. When performing the second, the use of a wider range of materials is required, the price of which is tangible. But the room takes on an almost spectacular look, where all design ideas are embodied.

Frameless cladding

It is characterized by the following main advantages:

• fast installation process;
• saves usable space;
• is cheaper than the wireframe method.

Surface preparation

The technology of wall cladding with gypsum boards in a frameless way requires mandatory surface treatment:

• Removal of dust and dirt.
• Cleaning of previous finishes, such as crumbling plaster;
• Padding.
• Markup.

Gypsum board is pasted over:

• Concrete.
• Brick.
• Gypsum.
• Cement walls.

Note. The frameless method is not suitable for painted, whitewashed or lime plastered surfaces.

On the walls, a vertical line marks the edges and the middle of each sheet (in 0.60 m). it perfect option, but you can limit yourself to the markup for the first sheet.

Drywall preparation

The technology of wall cladding with plasterboard allows pasting the surface with solid sheets (vertically):

• The height should be 3 m (or) - this is the standard length of the GKL. In practice, sheets of shorter length are often installed in a checkerboard pattern.
• The required length of the gypsum is cut off to leave a gap of 5-10 mm (to the ceiling and floor). It provides ventilation and is sealed with sealants with insulating material.

Sheets are cut on a flat and hard surface:

• A construction knife cuts through a layer of cardboard.
• A core of gypsum is broken at the incision site.
• The second layer of cardboard is cut.
• The fracture site is processed with a planer.

Required holes:

• Sockets.
• Switches.
• Communication conclusions.

They are marked on drywall and cut out with special cutters.

Next, prepare the glue. The instructions on the packaging describe in detail the proportions in which it is mixed with a mixer. This composition dries quickly, so it is not recommended to prepare a lot of glue. Half a bucket of solution is enough for one sheet.

Frameless methods

Technological maps for plasterboard cladding help to clearly carry out all the work.

Most easy way suitable for surface differences up to 3 cm, when sheets are glued directly to the wall:

• the level determines the irregularities of the prepared part of the wall;
• evenly (at a distance of 0.20 m) glue is applied to the wall in heaps (more mixture is placed in a large cavity, symbolically on a bulge);
• the sheet is applied to the wall, aligned according to the markup;
• exposed level and rubber mallet vertically and horizontally drywall.

• drywall strips are prepared for the perimeter of the wall, the centers of the sheets (width 8-10 cm) and the joint of the structure (width 16 cm);
• beacons are put on glue, each should be located strictly vertically and in the direction of the wall;
• when the mixture has hardened, glue or putty is evenly applied to the strips;
• gypsum is applied;
• in places where some equipment is attached to the wall, an additional strip is installed.

Note. Drywall can be glued using a combined method, when beacons are placed only along the bottom and top of the wall, while the middle is filled with heaps of the adhesive mixture. The sheet is exposed quite easily.

Frame cladding

This is necessary only if the irregularities prevent the profile from being fixed, or the walls are affected by fungus.

First, markup is done:

• It is determined at what distance from the surface the plane of the future structure will be located (communications, insulation and irregularities are taken into account).
• Compiled routing plasterboard wall cladding.
• The plumb and level determine and mark the locations of the perimeters (UD-profile) along the floor and ceiling (you can control deviations by pulling the cord).
• Places of vertical profiles (step 0.40-0.60 m) and mustaches on them (2-4 pieces per profile) are marked.

Attention. The evenness of the frame is necessarily controlled by the level.

The frame is being installed, which can be done by hand:

• Floor and ceiling perimeters are fixed according to the marking (with self-tapping screws every 0.30-0.40 m).
• Direct hangers are screwed to the wall for each rack-mount CD profile.
• Vertical racks are mounted (connected to perimeters and mustaches).

The last stage of lining with gypsum is finishing when the intersheets are glued with tape, the surface is puttied, everything is cleaned. Now the resulting smooth surface can be painted or pasted over. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material " Facing the fireplace with plasterboard".

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