Fastening siding is a good decorative move for decorating a veranda, house, log house and other structures. In addition to its excellent appearance, the profile is distinguished by a large number of positive qualities, of which a high level can be distinguished:
- resistance to low temperatures;
- moisture resistance;
- durability.
If the former beauty of your house, log house or veranda has been lost, and you do not know how to restore the building to its former beauty, insulation and cladding of the walls of the house, log house or veranda, made with your own hands, is a wonderful way out of the current situation. You will be pleasantly surprised by the fact that cladding and insulation will be within your power and you won’t have to hire experienced finishers; you can easily do all the work yourself.
Siding is easy to clean - no painting or special impregnations are required. For maintenance, you can simply clean the profile from dirt occasionally with water.
Siding can be made from different materials, but metal is considered the highest quality and most popular. Metal siding is made from galvanized steel and treated with a special polymer composition. Metal siding is considered the most durable material, which can be used at different temperatures.
Technical features of the panel are given in the table.
What do you need to know before starting work?
Before attaching the profile, you need to buy it suitable size and colors. To cover a wall with your own hands, the best siding is 6m long. This length of blade is the most popular, since after working with it there is the least amount of waste left.
I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the color of the siding plays an important role, and the cost of 1m2 of canvas varies between 150-200 rubles.
Regarding colors and textures, the profile has no restrictions. Today, siding on the market is presented in all sorts of colors and textures, which can imitate wood, brick, stone, etc.
Many beginners are very interested in attaching siding, which you can do yourself in two variations. If the material is fastened, as the technology says, then before installation begins you will have to install and align the guide rails. In another case, the siding can be attached to the old sheathing, and in this situation there will be no need to install guide rails.
How to correctly calculate the amount of material and pediment?
We attach siding to the wall ourselves
When you finally decide on the type of siding, you will have to start calculating its quantity. The easiest way to calculate is using a drawing. To do this, you can depict the building schematically and measure all the walls using the formula S=axb, where a is the horizontal length of the wall, b is the vertical length. The area is calculated for each wall separately, and in the end the sum of the footage of all surfaces is calculated. In this simple way you will correctly calculate total area surfaces of the entire house, log house or veranda.
Please pay special attention to the fact that the wall area is calculated minus all windows and doors. You also need to take away all decorative elements. You don't plan to cover them with siding, do you?
If you are interested in how to cover a pediment with siding, then to do this you need to correctly calculate its area. To do this, you can imagine the pediment in the form isosceles triangle, whose sides a and b will be equal, and the base can be designated by the letter c. Now the following formula comes into effect: P=(a+b+c)/2, in which P is the semi-perimeter.
After this, you will need to use another formula, which looks like this: S=p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c).
If you substitute the data for the perimeter, you get the following:
- a and b = 8m;
- c = 6m;
- according to the first formula it will be: P=(8+8+6)/2=11m (this is a semi-perimeter);
- calculate the area: S=11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6);
- As a result, we obtain the following data: S = 495 = 22.25 m 2.
Thus, despite the fact that we had to carry out several mathematical calculations, we obtained the required area. Such simple steps can significantly save material and prevent it from being overused when you decide to cover the gable with siding.
Surface preparation
DIY siding installation
If you decide to cover the surface of a house, log house or veranda with siding with your own hands, you need to know what it can be attached to, and what tools and materials will be useful for this. You also need to know which installation technology will help you with this.
And so, here is a list of tools that you need to acquire before starting work:
- circular file;
- metal ruler;
- roulette;
- hammer, pliers and pliers;
- square (preferably made of metal or wood);
- fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
- flat-blade and Phillips-blade screwdriver;
- knife-cutter;
- thin rope;
- level;
- screwdriver
First of all, you need to remove all kinds of plants and weeds from the walls. If the building has a drain or other decorative elements, they will have to be dismantled. In general, you need to remove all elements that could interfere quality implementation works
If there are rotten elements on the wall, they will either have to be removed or replaced with new ones, because putrefactive deformations and changes in wood cannot be stopped. It is better to treat the rest of the surface with antiseptic agents.
After the decorative elements are removed, take a level and make sure the walls are level.
Insulation and lathing of walls
Do-it-yourself wall cladding with siding
Before we start talking about siding fastening, let's talk about the concept of sheathing. New sheathing of a building can only be avoided when old paneling The walls are in good condition.
If you plan to cladding an old house, log house or veranda, then the work here will be a little complicated by the fact that over time the walls could be deformed or “float”. In such a situation you will have to purchase necessary tools and install scaffolding, because if you do the work yourself without outside help, you won’t be able to do without them.
To "floating" or concrete walls installation of sheathing made of boards or slats is required. The slats are fixed to the surface of the walls with ordinary nails, the length of which is 10 cm. The slats should be nailed with a step width of 30-40cm. Please note that they must be installed around the window or doorway, as well as on all corners of the veranda, house or log house.
While lathing the structure, you can also start insulating it, for which you can choose polystyrene foam, mineral wool, glass wool or ordinary polyethylene.
Now it's the most important question: how can you properly secure the profile to ensure subsequent insulation? All manufacturers indicate in the instructions that the profile can be secured with galvanized or aluminum nails. But, if you think about it, it becomes clear that the easiest way is to secure the siding profile with self-tapping screws. Ask why this is so? Imagine doing the insulation yourself, balancing on a ladder, holding a siding profile in one hand and a hammer and nails in the other. In this “pose” you will also need to manage to hammer in a nail. Not very convenient, right? And the self-tapping screw has a magnetic head, it is easily held on the screwdriver drill and easily enters the canvas.
Siding installation technology
We install siding panels ourselves
And so, we have discussed how to fix the siding, now you can start installing the canvas with your own hands and begin insulating the structure.
First of all, we need to talk about securing the starting strip:
- find the bottom point of the old cladding;
- draw a straight vertical line that will be 3-4 cm higher than the lowest mark;
- fix the starting bar so that its upper edge is at the level of the drawn line, attach it with self-tapping screws.
Please note that it is very important not to begin installing the siding until the starting strip has been installed over the entire area of the veranda, log house or house, or in the specific area that you wanted to design.
Installing siding on the walls of the facade of a house can be easily and quickly if you know a few important features installation Technology correct installation siding first of all involves careful preparation of the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls relative to the vertical level is the key to quick and correct installation siding. In the article we will look at some important features of installing siding with your own hands, and the video instructions below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.
Features of installing siding yourself
Today, the most popular and budget materials for facade finishing include vinyl and metal siding. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quite easy and quick, so you can do it yourself. Installation of siding should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame consisting of dry and level wooden blocks ( a budget option), as well as on a metal profile lathing.
Do-it-yourself technology for installing sheathing under siding
- Experts recommend using dry wooden blocks or metal profiles. The bars must be free of cracks and knots, dry and even, and not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, since, firstly, they are heavy and inconvenient, and secondly, self-tapping screws are difficult to screw into them and nails are hammered into them. Ideal and also economical option for the bars it is pine.
- It is better to choose bars no longer than 3 m in length; at this length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the bar should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a block of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
- You can also make a sheathing for siding from metal profiles. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly smooth and strong enough, so this the best option for the subsystem, although such sheathing will cost a little more, unlike wooden blocks.
- Basically, to install lathing under siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is used everywhere. The length of this profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, height 27 mm. Typically, the length of the profile is sufficient for lathing under the siding of one-story buildings, and if the façade height is more than 3 m, the profiles are added, and the profile must also be added under the cladding of the gable part of the wall.
The bars are installed on the wall as follows:
- Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl make the necessary markings on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the sheathing bars is no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding no less than 400-600 mm. It is better to mark for the installation of hangers for fastening slats with a pencil or chalk using a profile or block, as well as a building level.
- For quick marking, draw marks on the lower part of the façade with suitable spacing and, relying on them using a profile and level, draw marks for installing hangers in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the next walls.
- For a height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to attach at least 4-5 hangers approximately every 50-60 cm.
IMPORTANT! Direct metal hangers for installation of sheathing for siding are used mainly for lightweight type finishing materials(vinyl or metal siding) use, for example, such fasteners under facade cladding with heavy fiber cement panels for exterior finishing at home is not practical. In the case of heavy types of façade cladding materials, special metal brackets securely fixed to the wall are used to fasten the subsystem.
- To the wooden wall The suspension is attached in the center of the marked line with two wood screws no less than 30 cm long.
- After that, the hangers are bent in a U-shape and the profiles are inserted into them.
- Installation of all profiles should begin by installing the profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, level the profile first in one corner, then repeat the operation in the other.
- Screw the self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the corner profiles and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from the bottom and top.
IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, so when setting all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock down the lacing.
The sheathing is exposed over the entire area of the facade, now you can begin installing the siding yourself.
Features of installing horizontal siding
- Horizontal installation of siding panels is a more preferable option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, as it has good aesthetic characteristics and also better protects the façade from weather conditions.
- The siding must be fastened horizontally to a sheathing mounted vertically. In this case, the starting profile is also fixed in a horizontal position, 1-2 cm away from the base (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
- You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and, without tension, carefully screw it to the sheathing; in this case, the panel must be pushed almost flush (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.
Vertical installation of siding
To install siding vertically, horizontal installation of fittings will be required. In this case, you will have to fasten the siding panel from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before installing the siding) into the groove of which you need to push the bottom edge of the panel. A starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws into the profiled holes of the siding panel should be screwed into the upper part of the slot (not completely) leaving a small gap of about 1-1.5 mm, compensating for temperature effects.
How to properly install siding on metal or wood sheathing
- Siding can be installed either on a wooden subsystem or on a metal one. Siding installation technology for wooden blocks involves the use of wood screws with rare carvings of at least 30 cm in length. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastening element (not recommended).
- The siding is installed onto the metal sheathing using metal screws with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the screw should be a minimum of no more than 20 mm, thus it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the screw into the metal profile.
IMPORTANT! Self-tapping screws for installing siding yourself should be galvanized, this way you will prevent rusty stains on the surface of the siding cladding.
- The technology for fastening siding involves the preliminary installation of fittings for all additional accessories and elements. Included with the siding you must purchase starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, slope strips, and soffits. Only after all the additional elements have been installed can you begin to install the siding itself.
Finally
The price per square meter of siding from various companies can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out measures to do-it-yourself siding installation and save a lot of money at the same time. The savings can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.
In fact, there is nothing difficult about installing siding yourself. You just need a little desire and a little optimism, and also have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.
Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instructions
– this is modern facing material for finishing buildings with a rich assortment color range and textures.
It performs several main functions:
- Decorative, since it has an impeccable appearance thanks to the variety of textures and shades.
- Protective: from the influence of various weather phenomena and the external environment.
- Insulation: if there thermal insulation material between frame slats.
Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.
Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in construction market, thanks to low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:
- Frost-resistant.
- Does not require special care.
- Wear-resistant and durable.
- Easy to install.
- Easy to transport thanks to small sizes and weight.
- Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
- Does not corrode.
- UV resistant.
The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it for cladding a house without inviting specialists, with your own hands.
How to attach?
Fastening the panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws, which are convenient for working at heights using a screwdriver and a magnetic attachment. The main thing is resistance to corrosion, otherwise over time the appearance will be spoiled by rusty spots.
The procedure for installing the panels is as follows:
- Base covering and drainage installation. The house may have a base in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain drain, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. A flashing is installed from the corners, with the joint of the planks overlapping. Below, under the ebb, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using a level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is recommended to do low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
- Setting up a starting profile. The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the sheathing in one of the corners. Then drive a nail 4 cm higher. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is drawn that is drawn along the perimeter around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the sheathing. The upper edge of the starting profile is installed along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
- At the interface of the plinth and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
- Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after completing the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is at the same level in all corners. The main fastening step is 2-2.5 cm. Fastenings are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limit.
- Design of door and window openings. Special window J-profiles with a shelf are used for finishing slopes. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional cladding using corner profile. Under the window opening, row panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required gap.
- Installation of facade elements. Row panels are attached from the starting strip. Don't forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to be checked with a level for horizontalness.
- Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. The soffits are fastened every 30 cm. In the design of the pediment, a J-profile or corner profile is used.
- Joining siding. The service life and appearance of the building depend on correct docking. Please note:
- General starting rule: join the horizontal position of the siding from bottom to top, and the vertical position from the corner or midline of the wall.
- When temperature changes, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
- When installing, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid joining.
- The profile is fixed from the middle of the bar to the edges when mounted horizontally, from top to bottom when mounted vertically.
Despite general rules and the order of work, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:
- On vinyl siding, the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
- When cutting metal siding Strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
- On cold days, vinyl panels should not be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
- Fastening need to be done on a metal sheathing, since the wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.
Sheathing components and surface preparation
Main components include:
- Start profile. In order to give rigidity to the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the trim so as to remain hidden. The starting panel can be cut down, leaving a part with perforation and a receiving lock.
- J-profile. It is used to decorate windows and doorways, covers the side edges of panels on the facade, and can be used as a finishing profile at the junction of angles other than 90 0 .
- Corner profile. Designed for joining panels at both external and internal corners.
- H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow covering the wall completely. It is possible to connect two J-profiles.
- Finish panels. They are used to complete the cladding of building walls. Cover the last siding profiles.
- Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishing cornices, fastened using a J-profile.
Additionally, you will need ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as.
Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:
- Weed removal, dirt, etc.
- Dismantling decorative ornaments , platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
- Wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
- Treat with sealant places where moisture can penetrate: cracks, cracks, pipe insertions, etc.
In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared sheathing. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly smooth ones.
Installation of sheathing
Installation of wooden sheathing If the new wooden walls are perfectly smooth, no lathing is done. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, sheathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure support of the siding in one plane.
The sheathing frame maintains free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows it to retain heat in winter and protect it from overheating in summer.
The material for the sheathing is selected depending on the type of surface:
- On wooden walls - wooden beams.
- On stone walls– wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
- On brick and concrete walls– galvanized profile.
The procedure for making the sheathing is as follows:
- Using a level and tape measure you need to draw straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until you get a closed contour.
- Adhering to the wall starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used for compaction. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
- Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panels, around windows and doors.
- Do not connect vertical guides horizontal slats to maintain ventilation under the siding.
- Dry the wooden sheathing well To avoid warping, treat with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
- Use stainless nails.
At the same time, the building can be insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool or polyethylene, provided that the ventilation space is preserved. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or sheathing slats should be greater than the insulation layer. Do not allow moisture to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent mold or mildew from developing.
- Do not cut a large volume of profile, based on preliminary calculations. Errors may occur. Therefore, it is better to prepare the material in parts, for each section separately.
- Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in self-tapping screws. Use only designated holes.
- In panel fastening, use nylon washers - they will provide resistance in strong winds.
Finishing with siding is the second life of a house, which has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic appearance.
I wouldn’t like to start the article with banal phrases like: the facade is the face of the house and the like. Everyone already knows this, but when faced with the need for finishing, many questions immediately arise, the first of which, of course, is what material to use.
In this article we will talk about how to lay siding with your own hands, and what you can save on without compromising quality.
What is siding
Speaking in the scientific language of builders, siding is a hinged ventilated facade system. A distinctive feature of all is their installation at a distance from the facade itself. Thanks to this technology, there is always an air gap under the coating, which does not allow condensation to accumulate on the surface.
As a result, if properly treated with antiseptics, mold and harmful fungus will never appear on the walls, which often cause a lot of problems for homeowners. But since our article is not devoted to the material itself, but to the question of how to properly lay siding, we will simply briefly list the advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages over other types of facade finishing
So:
- Covering a house with siding is a very simple process that does not require specific skills and knowledge. Installation can be done easily with your own hands.
- Modern manufacturers produce a whole the lineup siding panels. Today, these are not just horizontal lines, but also imitations of various natural materials.
- The light weight of the entire siding does not require additional reinforcement of the walls and does not create a significant load on them.
- External siding is installed in the shortest possible time and without the involvement of specialists. In principle, all the work can be carried out by one person, and, in extreme cases, the help of one assistant will be needed.
- A facade covered with siding is very easy to care for. He is not at all afraid of water and even strong detergents.
- Thanks to the air gap between the siding and the wall, you can use any type of insulation (see).
- If the facade is damaged, one panel can be replaced, and the rest of the siding will remain intact.
- The final price of the entire siding finish is significantly lower than most popular types of finishes.
Before choosing siding in a store, you need to carefully study the entire assortment presented in stores. This will not be an easy task, so we will present a short video in this article, which shows several options for the appearance of siding.
Disadvantages of siding
So:
- The light weight of siding often becomes a disadvantage, since strong winds they can simply tear it out of its fastenings.
- Siding is quite easily damaged mechanically, any blow from a hard or sharp object, can not only leave a scratch on the panel, but even break through it.
- If you don’t take spare segments when purchasing siding, then later, if necessary, replace the damaged area; you simply won’t be able to find the same color or shape.
- Siding, like any plastic product, has, albeit insignificant, thermal deformation. That is, when high temperature in summer, the panels expand. This fact must be taken into account during installation.
Important! When purchasing siding, always purchase 5 to 10 percent more panels than may be needed. This is necessary to cover the defects that often occur when self-installation, and part should remain in reserve, in case you have to change an accidentally damaged area of the finish.
Installation
The axiom of all builders and finishers says: always start repairs by preparing materials and tools, so as not to waste time searching for the right screwdriver or nail.
Our instructions will not violate the postulates, so below is a list of tools that we will need:
- Pencil and tape measure.
- Construction knife with a set of additional blades.
- Electric jigsaw or, as a last resort, a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- Self-tapping screws or nails, depending on what it was decided to make the sheathing from.
- Hammer or screwdriver, again, depending on the material of the sheathing.
- Building level. Of course, ideally, if you have a laser device, which will greatly simplify and speed up the process. But if you don’t have one, then a water level with vertical and horizontal eyes will do.
- Hammer with drill, with a diameter corresponding to the purchased mounting dowels.
Additionally, you may need painting supplies such as a roller and brushes, but this is only if you chose wood to make the sheathing. This material itself is very malleable. high humidity, and besides, bugs really like to grow in it and eat it from the inside.
Therefore, to extend the service life of wooden sheathing and improve its quality characteristics, each block must be treated with special impregnations or a deep penetration primer.
Interestingly, many professionals do not advise using wood, since a galvanized profile is much more practical in this regard (see). That is why our siding installation instructions will describe metal guides, not wooden ones.
Marking
This stage requires a particularly careful and thoughtful approach, since the quality of the entire finish will depend on it. The fact is that if at the very bottom of the facade you allow a slight distortion of just a few millimeters, then when you reach the top panel it will be already several centimeters, which is naturally unacceptable.
Therefore, we arm ourselves with a pencil, a tape measure, a level and patience, and go ahead. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the so-called “dead point”. This is the lowest mark from the base, from which all further markings will go.
Having found this point, we draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the house. It is this line that will serve as our starting point.
Advice! In order not to have to worry about attaching the first panel, you can fix it around the perimeter of the house wooden beam ok, which will be the support on the horizontal line. You can simply lay the siding on this block and securely fasten it without fear that it will become distorted somewhere.
Now that we have the zero mark ready, we need to find the points from which the vertical guides will go. The distance between them should be at least 20 and no more than 50 centimeters.
The easiest way to do this is to divide the wall exactly in half. Then each segment is cut in half again and so on until the distance between nearest points will not be optimal.
From the obtained points we draw strict vertical lines, focusing on the building level. It is along these lines that the guide profiles will pass.
Now all that remains is to mark the points for installing guy wires for the profile. The ideal distance between the fasteners is 50 centimeters, so we simply put points through this distance on each line, and our marking is ready, we can move on to the next stage.
Lathing
Covering a house with siding is always carried out on a pre-prepared sheathing, although in some cases it can be abandoned.
For example, if your house is built from aerated concrete blocks, and there are several reasons for this:
- Aerated concrete has increased moisture permeability. Therefore, it can function normally without an additional air gap.
- Aerated concrete blocks are very soft, and ordinary carpenter's nails are easily hammered into them, so there will be no difficulties in attaching the siding directly to the wall.
- In the southern latitudes of our country, houses made of aerated concrete are not insulated at all. The heat capacity of the block itself is sufficient, so there is no need to leave space for tile insulation.
But in all other cases you will have to make a sheathing. In fact, there is nothing complicated here, we just pick up a puncher and a hammer and boldly go into battle.
Our wall already has marks for attaching guy wires, so we just drill holes in the marked places. It is important to correctly calculate the diameter of the drill and the depth of the hole. The dowel should be completely immersed in it and tightly press the metal guy.
If the hole is not deep enough, the dowel will hit the bottom and bend. In this case, it will be very difficult to pull it out. When all the guys are installed, we bend them perpendicular to the wall and attach the profiles to them, not forgetting to frequently check the building level.
An important point at this stage is to install an additional guide under the H-profile, which connects the two siding panels along the length. You need to find a place where it will pass, if of course there is a need for it, and install it, just like the rest of the sheathing elements.
Now you need to check the entire structure for strength. It’s enough just to twitch each profile and calculate weak spots. It is advisable to install additional fasteners here. As a result, we should have a sheathing, as shown in the photo at the beginning of this section.
Siding
If all the previous stages went smoothly and efficiently, then installing the siding will not take much time, and by the way, we can say that this is the easiest stage in the entire finishing process. The easiest way to install siding is with simple horizontal lines. Although, if you have some experience, you can lay it in a herringbone pattern or in a running pattern, but this is a topic for a separate article.
We start laying with, which is slightly different in configuration from the other segments. If you followed the advice and attached a wooden beam horizontally, simply place the panel on it and fasten it with self-tapping screws along each guide.
It is from the starting panel that the following segments will come, which are simply attached to it with grooves bottom, and the top one also with self-tapping screws to the guides. There is nothing complicated here, but it is important to remember that the fasteners should not press the panel tightly, since the plastic has thermal deformation.
The self-tapping screw does not tighten completely, leaving a small gap, which allows the siding to expand in the horizontal and vertical directions, while the panel itself hangs tightly on the cap, and the wind cannot tear it off.
After attaching the starting panel, we attach the decorative elements. In this case, these are corners and H-profile. In addition, you need to make a frame for windows and doors (see). The panels themselves simply slide inside decorative elements and are attached with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles.
Now all that remains is to simply add strips of siding to the very top. The only difficulty is the last panel at the top, which will have to be cut along its entire length. The finishing panel completes the finishing, now you can step aside and enjoy the work done.
Now, knowing how to install siding correctly, you can safely get to work, and the main thing here is not to rush and do everything thoroughly and efficiently. After all, repairing a facade is a very labor-intensive task in itself, and redoing the defect will be difficult and costly.
Anyone can cover the walls of a house with siding. However, before you start work, you need to take into account all the subtleties of installing this material. Today there are many types of siding: vinyl, metal, aluminum and others. However, the installation is pretty much the same.
The first thing you need to do before work is to draw up detailed drawing, in which literally everything will be calculated down to the smallest detail: the amount of material and fastenings, cutting of siding, fastening method. Otherwise you may make mistakes.
Siding is never rigidly attached. During installation, thermal expansion must be taken into account. Therefore, the nail should be driven in taking this fact into account.
Required tools and materials
To install siding you will need the following tools:
- hammer;
- plumb line;
- level;
- a circular saw;
- metal scissors;
- square;
- hacksaw;
- roulette.
You will also need a ladder for work.
To strengthen the siding elements, you need to purchase nails. To work with siding, nails must be galvanized and have wide hat. The length of such nails should not be less than 5 cm.
"Siding" is a word that implies a number of elements. The kit includes slats (profiles), panels and corners, or more precisely:
- siding - panels;
- G-rail (J - profile) - allows you to install panels in a vertical plane. In particular, it is thanks to the G-rail that it is possible to strengthen the siding around the openings;
- starting rail - used for fastening panels in the very first, bottom row;
- finishing strip - serves to strengthen the top row of siding panels;
- internal corner;
- outer corner.
This number of elements requires very careful planning before laying the siding. Any shortcomings will immediately affect the appearance of the skin.
It should be remembered that when transporting siding panels you need to be very careful. There is no need to stack them in one row of more than ten pieces. You also need to ensure that the panels are not damaged by rough or uneven surfaces.
Preliminary work
Before installing siding, a number of works must be carried out. They are mainly related to the preparation of the building facade. It is necessary to remove shutters, doors and all unnecessary elements that will interfere with installation. It is also necessary to level the plane of the walls. All cracks and cracks should be sealed. If there is any on the walls drainage system, then it must also be removed. Once the siding is installed, working above the surface will no longer be possible.
After the walls are prepared, you need to install the frame for the siding (sheathing). It can be made from wood and profiles, or from more modern materials, for example, from PVC. Wooden blocks for sheathing should have a section of 60 by 40 mm.
If the walls are brick, then a wooden base will not work here. For such cases, it is better to choose galvanized steel lathing. Basement siding must also be finished steel profiles. Wood is unsuitable for the reason that it quickly absorbs moisture.
When choosing fasteners (nails and staples), you should opt for galvanized ones. This will prevent corrosion.
Installation
- It is necessary to strengthen the siding elements onto the sheathing: profiles and slats.
- Work starts from the bottom of the house, so you first need to install the starting slats. It is best to fasten elements with self-tapping screws.
- The next step is installation corner structures siding. To do this, you need to mount the internal and external corners.
- After the fasteners are installed, you can begin installing the siding panels. Installation begins from the very bottom strip to the finishing strip, that is, from the bottom up. The panels are usually overlapped: the top row overlaps the bottom row by 2.5 cm. It is also possible to carry out installation using H-profiles.
- When installing, you must observe several simple rules, and then no problems will arise. The panel must be filled starting from the middle - this is the law. When driving a nail, you must remember to leave room for air. However, the panel should not dangle.
In some cases on wooden house the panels are attached without sheathing. However, its use is desirable in any case. Lathing allows you to install panels better and expands functionality siding.
Before installation, the panels must be cut and trimmed. Cutting can be transverse and longitudinal. Longitudinal cutting is carried out using metal scissors, transverse cutting - circular saw. In this case, uneven edges should be avoided.
You can lay a layer of insulation under the siding. This is quite simple: you need to install insulation blocks between the sheathing bars and secure them inside. Siding panels have only one function - they create an attractive appearance of the house. However, no additional load can be placed on them.
Scheme
