After exterior walls of a frame house assembled, raised and, most importantly, leveled, you can move on to the interfloor floors. If you have one-story house, the ceiling will be called “attic” and will be the last in the structure of the house. We will also look at the characteristics of frame houses types of roofs and their design.
Frame house floors
Main task floors frame house - this is not only the creation of the floor of the second floor and the ceiling of the first, but also strengthening the structure of the house. Floor beams are selected for strength and rigidity. Strength requirements depend on the load the beams must bear. The rigidity, in turn, should be such as to minimize the possibility of cracks in the ceiling finish due to temporary loads and, more importantly, to reduce unpleasant vibration of the floor from moving loads.
Beams frame house floors made, as a rule, from boards 38 mm thick and width (beam height) 140, 184, 235 or 286 mm. The size (height) depends on the load, span, distance between beams, species and type of wood, as well as on the permissible deformation. The distance between beams is usually 400 mm (16 in), although under higher loads or conditions limited space Beams of reduced height can be placed at a distance of 300 mm (12 in) from each other. If the beam board has a slight curvature in the plane, it should be installed with the curved side up. Once the decking and finished floor are installed, the curvature of the beam is usually leveled out. The figure below shows the structure of a beam floor.
If you need to make an opening in the ceiling for a staircase or fireplace chimney.
Preparation for the floors is done by sheathing panels made of plywood, OSB plywood, and sheathing with boards no more than 184 mm wide in quarter or tongue and groove. Plywood panels are installed so that the surface fibers are directed perpendicular to the floor beams. If the plywood preparation is made together with a floor underlay, then the side edges of the panels should be supported by blocking with 38 x 38 mm (2 x 2 in) blocks between the floor beams. There is no need to support if the edges of the panels are joined into a tongue and groove.
Roof of a frame house
The simplest roof of a frame house for construction directly on the site, a gable gable roof is used (option A). All rafters are cut to the same length with the same details, and installation is not difficult. When installing an attic living space, it is important to pay attention to insulation and correct installation air insulation and vapor barrier. These are the key pieces of the framing pie.
What does the roof frame consist of?
Technology for constructing the roof of a frame house
Installation of a ridge beam frame house roofs begins with attaching two vertical support posts to the top frame of the frame house. The racks are assembled from boards and installed strictly level in order to secure the intermediate racks (ridge supports). In the upper floor, the beams on which they rest must be specially reinforced. The ridge beam is also assembled from boards to enhance its longitudinal strength. The boards are fastened together with metal plates.
The rafter legs are mounted on the ridge and on the edges of the top trim with metal corners. In order to reduce the unsupported span of the rafters, intermediate supporting walls are made from them.
All rafters are cut strictly according to the template with the most accurate cutting angle at the junction with the ridge beam and the edges bottom trim. All uneven rafters are laid with the unevenness facing up. For roof overhangs, boards are used just above the rafters in order to make sheathing along the rafters and ultimately obtain a flat surface on which sheets of OSB plywood (12.5 mm thick) are laid in a checkerboard pattern. Roofing material can be mounted on the resulting structure.
Floors in frame house- This horizontal surfaces, with the help of which the internal volume of the room is protected from above and below. These are the floor and ceiling, fixed to special wooden or concrete structures. They are of great importance, connecting the walls together and making the building structure more rigid. In addition, these elements create additional insulation for the building: their frame must contain insulation.
What types of floors are there?
There are three types of floors in frame buildings:
- interfloor;
- sexual;
- attics.
Floor coverings must be strong and rigid enough to make it reliable flooring. Attic floors are also made with high quality, since insulation and ceiling trim are attached to them.
At interfloor ceilings two functions at the same time - to be a floor for the upper floor and a ceiling for the lower one. These floors are subject to vertical loads, so the beams must be resistant to vertical deflections.
Requirements for the floor structure
The interfloor ceiling in a frame house must meet many criteria, but the main requirements are:
- Rigid and durable construction that can withstand heavy loads.
- No beam should bend under the influence of gravity.
- The wooden floors of a frame house must have good sound insulation so that noise and extraneous sounds from one floor do not penetrate to another.
- It is important to make high-quality insulation. The attic and basement floors should be especially well insulated.
- All main floor elements must have good fire resistance so that an accidental fire on one floor does not spread to the entire building.
- You should not make too massive, expensive and huge structures - the ceiling arrangement should be as simple and budget-friendly as possible.
Features of floors
After the construction of the lower level, it is necessary to make a floor from the same materials as the frame in order to continue the construction of the next level of the house. It is important that frame walls were level in the horizontal plane. This will allow you to quickly make the overlap.
Essentially the ceiling is the basis for the upper level. That is, the ceiling of the first floor (the layer between the first and second floors) becomes the floor for the second floor. This means that the structure must be especially durable. For this purpose, it is better to strengthen the logs if necessary, because internal non-main walls will be fixed to them.
Sometimes a house design involves the participation of floor joists in the design rafter system. This has its drawbacks:
- the thermal insulation layer will be significantly reduced, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
- will have to provide for complex ventilation system under-roof space in the area of \u200b\u200bjoints of joists and rafters;
- When erecting rafters, you will have to construct a flooring from boards or plywood.
Logs for interfloor ceilings can be of different thicknesses. So, if no one will walk on them, you can put thin boards. If the upper room is residential, the logs should be of a large cross-section, no less than on the first floor.
Installation procedure and rules
Even without planning to install the floors of a frame house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the design and installation of this important element.
To install interfloor slabs, you first need to lay them around the perimeter of the house. beam harness, and then fasten the logs onto it with nails. If there is a large span, it is better to make glued beams.
Floor beams have a dual function. On one side, a plasterboard ceiling is attached to them, on the other, floor joists are filled. The thickness of the floor boards must be at least 1/20 of the length. For example, a span of 4 m will require a log with a thickness of 20 cm. The floor space is filled with insulation.
Beams are made from thick logs, which are sawn into pieces with a thickness of 70 mm. You can also knock together two boards whose thickness is 50 mm.
Connect the boards to each other with nails or metal staples. Floor beams have advantages: they are low cost, easy installation, high thermal insulation properties, long service life (up to 50 years).
Wooden beams are a fire hazardous material. This means that they need to be treated with fire-resistant impregnations, antifungal compounds and anti-rot agents.
Insulation of floors between floors
Mineral wool has important advantages: natural origin, low thermal conductivity, it is light and non-flammable. Therefore, it is best to use it for insulating floors. But you can also use other alternative materials for sound and heat insulation:
- perlite;
- foam;
- expanded clay;
- slag;
- dry sand;
- sawdust.
Floor materials
It is best to choose coniferous wood. It could be pine, spruce, larch. The main load is placed on the beams or joists, and then transferred to the walls, frame and foundation.
For floor beams, treated round beam on two edges or boards knocked together.
The supporting beams must be sized appropriately depending on the load they will experience and the length of the span. Size values can be found in special tables.
Load calculation
Floors are tested the following types load:
- support their own weight;
- the mass of the part of the house that is higher than them;
- variable load from the presence of people and from the installation of furniture and things.
On average, its own mass is 150-200 kg each square meter ceilings. The specific weight depends on the type of insulation and the thickness of all structural elements. Attic floors have even more weight because more insulation needs to be installed there.
As for variable loads, their average values are up to 100 kg per 1 sq. m, and sometimes more. To understand the total load, it is necessary to sum the constant and variable loads at their maximum values.
Further in the tables look required thickness beams taking into account their length. The beams are installed on the perimeter strapping using metal corners. When installing an interfloor or attic floor, it is important to install the beams clearly above the vertical frame posts.
Sheeting and flooring
Having installed ceiling beams and having checked whether they are strong enough and whether they are fastened correctly, they begin to install flooring on top of them so that they can be walked on. After this, the ceiling lining is installed below.
For interfloor ceilings, it is necessary to select high-quality lining. It must withstand its weight, as well as the load of the ceiling finishing, insulation and all decorative and functional elements that will be attached to it. These are lamps, some furniture elements, some decorations.
Despite all this, the load-bearing capacity of the skin should not be too high. For these purposes, any frame house uses some kind of sheet materials. For example, it could even be ordinary drywall. Its use is very beneficial, since it not only allows you to make the ceiling as smooth as possible, but is also a fire-resistant material.
When choosing a lining for the floor and ceiling, you need to remember that it must withstand a greater load, since in these places there is a larger layer of insulation than in the interfloor. In addition, additional elements of the floor structure appear. Therefore, here it is already rational to use not ordinary drywall, but tongue-and-groove boards and other similar options.
Rewind device option
The work begins with the fact that specially prepared cranial bars are filled to the bottom of the ceiling beams of the ceiling system along the entire length from the side. Ordinary wooden slats with a cross-section of 30x50 mm are perfect for this purpose. They are necessary for installing roll-up shields. They mean sheets of drywall, plywood, other materials or boards that can support the weight of the insulation.
Rolling is necessary not only for decorative purposes. It holds all structural elements that are not fixed to the floor beams. In addition, this lining element also supports the load from below in the form of finishing and its decorative parts.
There are two types of flooring that are used in frame houses. The first is a draft, the second is a running one. Only the draft version is used in attics so that they can be moved comfortably. Running flooring refers to the installation of a finished plank floor.
Installing both rough and finishing flooring involves laying boards on the beams and securing them. Thus, the installation of the flooring is the same, but the requirements for the quality of work are different.
When nailing the subfloor boards to the beams, a special gap is created. It is necessary for air to circulate through the floor. When nailing the running (or finishing) flooring, there is no gap, and the boards are joined tightly.
It should be noted that it is not necessary to make a continuous flooring in attics that will not be used. To do this, it is enough to fill the boards along certain routes that will be needed to solve any emergency problems. For example, to access the ridge of a roof or a chimney.
Floor pie in frame houses
It doesn’t matter what technologies are used to build a frame house and how its design is carried out, the floors have approximately the same structure and pie. If we talk from bottom to top, then first comes the filing (or rolling). Then a plastic film, glassine, roofing felt or other waterproofing layer is stretched over it.
Next install insulation layer. On the ground floor it is convenient to use bulk fillers. This can be expanded clay, perlite, furnace slag, and other materials. Optimal use between floors mineral wool, foam plastic, glass wool or other slab and roll insulation.
Insulation is necessary for floors and ceilings in a frame house. If you need to soundproof between rooms, do this using acoustic soundproofing wool.
The amount of insulation that will be used for insulation different parts frame house, can be calculated using tables.
After installing the insulation or filling it in, if it is loose, you can pour it on top sand-cement mortar for screeding the entire structure. This is especially true for attic floors. This is resorted to in order to slow down the destruction of the insulation and maximize the service life of the ceiling.
Conditions for durability of floors
In order for the floors of a frame building to perform all their functions, it is necessary to maintain them in proper conditions, which will allow maximum preservation of the strength of the structure throughout its entire service life. Thus, it is necessary to prevent dampness and moisture from entering the ceilings and accumulating there. It is this that often has the most destructive effect on the tree.
Air in frame houses must circulate both horizontally and vertically. A ceilings deprive it of the ability to pass between floors. Therefore, when there is a temperature difference, condensation appears on them as at the coldest point in contact with air.
If air does not circulate, the wood begins to get wet, it becomes damp, which leads to rotting of the structure and the rapid spread of mold. Wood easily absorbs moisture and begins to swell. Because of this, the dimensions of individual frame house structures change, which leads to unnecessary stress.
If this situation continues, the strength of the entire house will begin to suffer, which will lead to rapid wear and tear and forced cessation of operation. And due to the fact that with increased humidity, fungi will begin to actively develop, this will accelerate the destruction of wooden structures and further reduce the life of the building.
Humidity and dampness most often enter the house due to improperly installed floor coverings. Occasionally, the cause is also the attic floor. As for interior floors, they are not threatened by excess moisture in the house.
The exception is ceilings in the toilet, bathroom, and kitchen. When performing them, they make an additional layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not penetrate into the wooden frame and did not accumulate there.
Video: rules and analysis of interfloor ceiling errors
So, installing floors in a frame house does not count challenging task. But there are a number of subtleties and technical standards that must be followed. This is necessary in order to make the operation of the house as comfortable and long-lasting as possible. All remaining questions are answered in the video.
– these are the surfaces that limit and enclose its internal volume.
They are installed on the floors, which are the main part of the house frame.
Therefore, the importance of overlaps is difficult to overestimate.
In addition, they close the walls on themselves, forming a monolithic spatial structure of the house. Floors in a frame house provide rigidity to the ceiling and floor, as well as to the entire house.
Floor beams of a frame house- this is round, wood, or edge-mounted boards processed into two edges. You can replace thick boards with thinner ones.
It is important to secure them firmly together. A difficult option Installation of boards of a box-shaped structure is considered, it provides good rigidity and has an optimal cost.
The dimensions and type of load-bearing beams are determined depending on the load, span and deflection. This value is a reference value, and if necessary, you can easily find it on the Internet. The entire design of the floors is standard, and this makes it possible to record the average loads, which are used to determine the cross-section of the support beams.
Load calculation
For attic and interfloor ceilings there are specific requirement: beams are mounted strictly above the vertical posts of the house.
Sheeting and flooring
In most cases, ceilings in a frame house prevent free air circulation. When temperature changes occur, condensation forms on wooden floor elements.
Firstly, the wood will quickly absorb moisture and swell, changing its original size. And this will increase the stress in the structure.
In the future, this may lead to a loss of strength in the connections of parts and floor elements, which will make their use impossible.
Secondly, humidity is a great environment for mold and mildew to grow. Dampness can destroy the wooden floors of a frame house within a few years.
The problem of humidity and dampness mainly concerns floors, and to a lesser extent ceilings. For interior floors, humidity is not a problem.
Ceilings in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet must be supplemented. And it’s better to abandon the bottom binder. Since this will improve air exchange and allow you to monitor the condition of parts and ceiling elements.
It is not difficult to install a ceiling in a frame house. The main thing is to do everything correctly, without violating technical standards. And then you won’t have to think about them while you live in your home.
The floor and ceiling in a frame house are horizontal surfaces that limit and enclose its internal volume. They are mounted on floors that are part of the load-bearing frame of the house. And in this sense, the importance of overlaps is difficult to overestimate. In addition to the fact that they close the vertical walls on themselves, forming a single strong spatial structure, the ceilings provide rigidity to the floor and ceiling, as well as thermal insulation and noise protection of the entire house.
Both the structure of the floors and the materials used for them depend on their place and purpose in the house. In a frame house, there are three types of floors: floor, ceiling (attic) and interfloor.
The first task is to provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the floor. Ceilings support only the ceiling finishing and a layer of insulation, sometimes very impressive.
The interfloor ceiling performs the functions of both floor and ceiling, being the carrier of the floor of the upper floor and the ceiling of the lower.
The most unpleasant load on the structure in question is vertical. Therefore, the base of the floor is calculated based on the need to minimize vertical deflections.
In a frame house, the floors in the vast majority of cases are made of coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce or larch. The basis is floor joists or ceiling beams. It is they who take on all the loads of the floor, then transferring them to the upper or lower trim, as well as to interior walls or foundation.
Floor beams can be processed with two or four edges round wood, timber or edge-mounted boards with a thickness of at least 80 mm. It is acceptable to replace thick boards with paired thinner ones, for example, 50 mm thick. The main thing is to firmly and reliably “sew” them together. A more complex, but advantageous option in terms of rigidity/price is a device made from box-shaped boards or I-beams.
The standard size of load-bearing beams is determined depending on the span, load and permissible deflection. This value is for reference, and if necessary, the corresponding tables can be easily found on the Internet. The typical design of frame houses makes it possible to record the average load values, from which the cross-section of the support beams can be determined.
Thus, the load on the floors consists of a constant component - their own mass, as well as variable loads that appear during the operation of the house. The dead weight of one square meter of interfloor and floor coverings of a frame house depends on their design, the insulation and sound insulation used and is usually 210-230 kg.
The dead weight of attic floors is higher, since more insulating materials are used here. It can range from 260 to 300 kg. However, variable loads for attic floors are less and, as a rule, do not exceed 100 kg per square meter, while for interfloor floors this figure is twice as high.
In order to calculate the total load on the floor, it is necessary to add the constant and variable components. Taking into account the span length of the beams and their profile, we find the cross-sectional area using the table. The distance between the beams is determined in a similar way, which is usually from 0.5 to 1 m.
The floor beams are installed on the frame and secured either with metal corners or cut directly into the frame beam (board). For interfloor and attic floors there is a requirement: beams must be installed only above the vertical posts of the wall frame.
If in this case the pitch of the floor beams does not coincide with the calculated one, the latter must be reduced to a value that is a multiple of the pitch of the frame racks.
Flooring and filing
After installing and securing the beams, a flooring (top) and a lining (bottom) are installed on them. Interfloor ceiling 
requires a binder that supports only its own weight, decorative ceiling elements, as well as low weight of soundproofing material. Therefore, the requirements for bearing capacity minimal. Almost any material can be used as such a lining in a frame house. sheet material, for example, ceiling plasterboard, which also significantly increases the fire resistance of the building.
The attic and floor lining must support a significantly greater weight of insulation and other elements of the floor structure. Therefore, it is made from tongue-and-groove boards 30 mm thick.
Another option is a rewind device. In the lower part of the floor beams, so-called cranial bars are packed on the sides along their entire length. Typically, a rail with a cross section of 30x50 mm is used for this purpose. And roll-over shields are already laid on them: boards or any sheet material that can withstand the weight of the insulator, for example, plywood. In this case, the entire load from the weight of the internal elements of the floor falls on the roll. And the only thing left to do is support the weight of the ceiling trim.
In a frame house, there are two types of flooring: running and rough. Walking flooring is used in the attic to allow movement around it. In addition, the running flooring is a finished plank floor. Both types are arranged by fastening boards either directly to beams (floor joists) or through elastic pads.
But they differ in the quality of installation: the running floor boards are held together, while the subfloor boards are nailed with a gap necessary for the movement of air from reverse side finished floor. In attics that are not planned to be used, you can do without a top flooring. Instead, so-called passage boards are laid along the emergency passage route.
"Stuffing" of the ceiling
Floors of any type have a similar structure. Glassine, roofing felt, or simply plastic film are placed on the roll or directly on the hem. Insulating material is poured or laid on top. Naturally, bulk insulation materials are poured, such as expanded clay, furnace slag, perlite, etc. Sheet or roll insulation materials are laid: polystyrene foam, glass wool, etc.
Please note that only floor and attic floors need to be insulated, and interior floors are only soundproofed with acoustic mineral wool. The required amount of insulation is determined from tables depending on its type and average winter air temperature.
Helpful advice: after pouring insulation into the attic floor, it is recommended to pour sand-cement or lime mortar. This event will significantly slow down the destruction of the insulation and extend its service life.
Ensuring optimal operating conditions
Considering the importance of floors for ensuring the normal functioning of a frame house, it is necessary to create proper conditions for them to maintain strength characteristics throughout the entire life of the house. And the most important of external factors providing negative impact on wooden structures ceiling, is moisture.
Any overlap to a greater or lesser extent prevents the free movement of air containing water vapor. And under certain conditions (temperature changes, air humidity) wooden parts moisture condenses in the ceiling. In the absence of sufficient air movement, the wood remains wet for a long time, which is fraught with the following consequences.
Firstly, the tree absorbs moisture and swells, changing its linear dimensions. And this, in turn, creates increased stress in the structure. Several “swelling-drying” cycles can lead to a loss of strength of the joints of the floor parts, which will make their operation difficult, if not impossible.
Secondly, wet cellulose is a very good environment for mold growth, which can destroy floor beams in 2-3 years. The problem of humidity is acute for floors, to a much lesser extent for attic floors, and is generally not relevant for interior floors.
Therefore, to ensure normal air circulation in the basement, it is recommended to install ventilation ducts or wells.
Wooden floors in rooms with high humidity(bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.). Here it is advisable to supplement the ceilings with a waterproofing layer. But it’s better to refuse the bottom hem, limiting yourself to one roll. On the one hand, this will improve air exchange, on the other hand, it will allow you to control the condition of the ceiling parts.
As you may have noticed, it is not so difficult to arrange a ceiling in a frame house. The main thing is to do everything right. And then you will not remember its existence while you live in the house.
One of the most important technological stages in the construction of a frame house is the installation of the floor. The traditional option in the best possible way What fits into the decor of such a building is a wooden floor - an environmentally friendly structure, which, unlike concrete floors, the frame of the building can withstand without any problems.
Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the sequence of flooring in a frame house. After studying the recommendations given, you will successfully cope with the implementation necessary measures on our own, avoiding the need to attract third-party craftsmen and the associated costs.
First of all you must choose suitable wood. In the selection process, take into account the climate in the location of the house, the expected intensity of the load on the structure, the available budget, as well as the operating features of the room being equipped.
For greater ease of perception, the key criteria for evaluating materials and recommendations for their use are presented in the form of a table.
Table. Choosing material for flooring in a frame house
| Evaluation criterion | Explanations and recommendations |
|---|---|
| Material of manufacture | Coniferous wood. Relatively budget option, optimally suited for use in medium and small areas. Despite the relatively low cost, it is characterized by very good indicators of durability and reliability. Oak, aspen. Traditional representatives of the middle and high price segments. Key performance characteristics significantly superior to similar parameters of its closest “competitors”. Aspen, due to its highest environmental friendliness, is perfect for use in bedrooms and children's rooms. |
| Humidity | For installing a floor in a frame house, especially when it comes to living rooms, only high-quality dried wood is suitable. Wet material as it dries, it inevitably decreases, which leads to the formation of gaps in the coating. |
| External condition | Make sure that the wood does not have cracks, suspicious spots, splits and other similar defects. Refrain from using such material, even if you are offered a big discount. |
To determine required quantity material, calculate the area of the room. Additionally, add about 5-10% to the calculated value for the reserve. Flooring is most conveniently done using boards 2 m long. If possible, buy elements from the same batch, manufactured and processed under the same conditions. This will ensure that there are no differences in color, texture and other external evaluation criteria of the boards.
The most preferred material for arranging flooring in a frame house is edged tongue-and-groove boards. The main advantage of using this material is that there is no need for finishing grinding, which makes it possible to significantly reduce labor and time costs.
What could be the floor of a wooden house: a review of existing options
The following materials are most often used for flooring:
- parquet;
- glued parquet board. The material costs less than regular parquet, without having any significant external differences, but slightly inferior in a number of performance characteristics;
- solid parquet board;
- solid wood board.
Preparatory work
The technology for installing the floor in the building under consideration involves the creation of a two-layer structure consisting of a base and directly wooden materials. Traditionally, flooring is laid on joists or on top of floor beams. When choosing a specific method, you need to take into account, first of all, the features of the room being equipped and its location.
Before use, all wooden components are impregnated with special antiseptic and fire retardant agents. The base of the future floor structure must be waterproofed. Penofol is perfect for this job. If you do not have a sufficient budget, you can also use plastic film.
The procedure for arranging a subfloor in a frame house
Preparation of supports
If your frame is being built on a columnar foundation, you will not have to carry out any additional preparatory measures except for arranging waterproofing of the supports (usually roofing felt is used for this). If you are building a house on another supporting structure, start work by arranging the mentioned pillars. At the discretion of the owner, the supports are either built from brick or cast from concrete, taking into account the design height of the future floor. The spacing of the pillars should not exceed 2 m; on average, an 80-100-centimeter pitch is maintained.
As an example, instructions are given for arranging such concrete supports. The procedure is as follows:
- using a drill, holes are prepared in the ground with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of about 100 cm;
- Asbestos-cement pipes with a length of about 130 cm and an internal diameter of 100 mm are placed in the holes at a level;
- the space in the pits around the pipes is filled with sand, which is spilled with water and compacted;
- a building mixture prepared from 1 share of cement, 4 shares of sand, about 5 shares of crushed stone and water is poured into the pipes through a funnel;
- Special plates are installed in the pipes to fix the lags.
Installation of logs
Before installing the logs, you need to make the bottom trim.
If you don't have it ready yet, follow these steps:
- fix the bottom trim boards to the foundation. The elements are installed on the edge. The most commonly used boards are 15x5 cm in size. If necessary, you can change these indicators to suit the conditions of your situation;
- connect the boards of the inner bottom trim in the corners using screws;
- Attach the boards of the middle part of the lower trim to the inner boards using screws;
- Attach the outer ones to the middle boards. Fixation is also done using screws;
- plan the top of the trim boards using electric planer. Make sure the structure is level using a level;
- mark the locations for future installation of logs;
- Armed with an electric jigsaw, make grooves in the harness for installing the logs.
Next you need to lay the joists. You can use boards for this either wooden beam dimensions 10x5 cm, 15x5 cm or other dimensions, focusing on the operating characteristics of the room and the expected level of loads on the floor structure. The logs are fixed using any suitable fasteners: screws, dowels, nails, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.
Attach wooden slats measuring 3x3 cm (more is possible) to the logs. To do this, you can use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners. The bars will serve as supports for the ends of the boards of the floor being installed. For greater convenience of further installation of the flooring, connect the logs with transverse bridges from a similar beam/board. Attach the lintels, maintaining a 125-centimeter or other step in accordance with the dimensions of the flooring elements used.
Tighten the bottom trim boards using nails, holding chess order and 0.5-0.8-meter pitch.
Important note! Traditionally in technology frame construction First, the subfloor is installed, after which walls and partitions are erected. But under certain circumstances or due to the owner’s personal considerations, the order in which the mentioned technological measures are performed may change.
Installation of rough flooring
On top of the previously mentioned support rails measuring 3x3 cm are laid OSB boards(necessarily with moisture-resistant properties) or sheet plywood. The latter, as a rule, is not attached to the support rails, but directly on top of the joists. And if in the case of OSB no difficulties usually arise, then the installation of plywood flooring must be approached with knowledge of a number of important nuances. Rules and recommendations for correct installation Plywood decking is detailed in the following table.
Table. Rules for installing a plywood subfloor
| Requirements | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Laying scheme | Sheets of plywood need to be mounted staggered, i.e. Each new row should be offset relative to the previous one by approximately half of the sheet element. |
| Sheet thickness | When choosing the thickness of plywood, be guided by the installation step of the support joists. These parameters are interrelated, i.e. you can think it over at the moment even before installing the supports. So, if the logs are installed at a distance of 30-45 cm, use plywood with a thickness of 16-18 mm or OSB-3 boards with a thickness of 18 mm. If you install supports with a pitch of 50 cm or more (the maximum value traditionally does not exceed 62.5 cm), buy sheets with a thickness of 18-21 mm or slabs with a thickness of 22 mm. |
| Fastening the deck | A comprehensive method is suitable for attaching plywood, which involves the combined use of glue and self-tapping screws or rough nails. Self-tapping screws will ensure the main fixation of the sheets, and the glue will additionally eliminate the appearance of squeaks. Plywood is attached around the perimeter and in the middle (diagonally). Place fasteners along the edge of the sheet in 15-centimeter increments; in the middle part, it is recommended to maintain a 30-centimeter gap. |
| Gaps between sheets | Plywood is laid maintaining 2-3 mm gaps. To ensure equal spacing, insert nails of the appropriate diameter between the sheets. After installing the flooring, you will remove them. |
A layer of water vapor barrier material is placed in the space between the joists. It is most convenient to use a construction stapler to attach the film.
The construction work is almost complete. There are only a few final steps left to complete, namely:
- place mineral wool or other selected thermal insulation material in the cells of the floor frame;
Vapor barrier
- lay boards about 30 mm thick across the joists. Maintain a 40-60 cm step, depending on the thickness of the boards selected for the subsequent flooring and the expected level of loads on the base. For fastening wooden elements You can use self-tapping screws or any other suitable fastener. Thanks to this additional sheathing, the necessary ventilation gap will be created;
- lay a tongue-and-groove board 25-35 mm thick or a regular board 40-50 mm thick on top of the sheathing;
- install the selected finishing floor covering.
Now you own everything necessary information For independent arrangement floor structures in a frame house. Follow the guidelines you have studied and everything will definitely work out.
Plank floor in a frame house
Good luck!
Video - Floor installation in a frame house
Video - How the floor is arranged in a frame house