Diagram of a septic tank made of plastic barrels. How to make a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands: step by step instructions. General rules for SNiP

Owners of private households, in an effort to save money, install an economy version of sewage tanks - a septic tank from barrels, designed to create home comfort in a suburban home. Local sewerage, with an autonomous cleaning system, allows you to run a convenient infrastructure in settlements where there are no centralized systems. In suburban areas in summer cottages, it makes no sense to install expensive septic tank options, because suburban summer cottages come to life only in the summer.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of cleaning systems, however, many prefer to design and manufacture a home-made septic tank in the country, the price of which will be minimal. Such an independent cleaning system with a septic tank as the main working element is easily built from improvised waste materials.

Let's analyze how to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands, if the purchase of a finished structure is postponed. The article describes technological nuances manufacturing and installation of home-made containers, provided step-by-step instruction with photo illustrations. The video will help you better understand the process.

In the absence of a centralized water supply and sewerage network near the site, it becomes necessary to build an autonomous system. Do-it-yourself septic tank made from barrels, recycles wastewater in accordance with hygiene standards.

The design is calculated on a certain amount of sewage, taking into account the people living in the house. Installation homemade device recommended for the following reasons:

Cost reduction.
Self-purchase of components + use of existing materials.
Use of available tools.
The equipment is installed according to a modular scheme, that is, the possibility of understaffing is calculated in advance - connecting additional drain pipes to reserved entry points.

Only a person who has built a drain system on his own understands weaknesses design and knows its maximum capabilities. Having calculated the approximate norms of family water consumption, the frequency of residence and, having studied the features land plot, unnecessary financial costs, physical losses, and "emergencies" caused by low capacity can be avoided.

On a note! The principle of operation of a cesspool from barrels is the construction of multi-level sedimentation tanks, as a result of which overflow occurs, waste settles and the separation of effluents into water and sludge is ensured.

After the process is completed, about 65% of the water is discharged into the ground, and the sludge accumulates at the bottom until it is pumped out of the treatment plant.

What are the pros and cons of plastic and metal barrels

The basis of the construction of an autonomous sewer system- barrel tank. For arrangement, two types are used - metal or plastic. Since it is not so easy to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands, the choice of packaging is up to the owner. Metal containers usually have a capacity of 200 liters. Plastic - available in large sizes. For reasons of economy, it is better to install the existing tanks. But when you plan to buy a container, you should explore different options.

Plastic variant

Pros of using:

Little weight;
Ease of installation;
Ease of making holes;
Full waterproof;
Corrosion resistance.

Cons of products:

The light weight of the product requires stable attachment to the foundation in order to avoid “floating” when flooded from excessive rainfall;
The elasticity of the material leads to the compression of containers by soils.

Iron variant

Advantages of iron barrels for the construction of a cesspool:

High rigidity and strength of products;
Sufficient water resistance;
Structural stability.

Flaws:

Susceptibility to corrosion, which requires the application of a waterproofing coating;
The labor-intensive process of making holes, using power tools.

The main disadvantage of a sump from barrels is the small volume of chambers. This is the reason for the frequent pumping of sediment.

Please note! If the volume of the chambers corresponds to 200 / 250 l drums, the effluent discharge must be regulated.

How does a homemade sewer sump work

All drains enter the sewer lines, and from there into the reservoir, the so-called pit. In this barrel, wastewater is "filtered", most of the pollutants settle. Through the connecting pipe, wastewater from the first tank enters the second tank. The process of filling the sections takes place in a strictly regulated manner, which is achieved by placing the containers with a ladder on different levels.

The outlet and inlet are positioned so that water enters the next tank before its level rises to the inlet pipe. Gradually, the heaviest particles of dirt fall to the bottom, while small and light ones continue to move along the structure. In order for the waste stream to move freely along the sewer lines, a home-made septic tank from barrels is made with a slope.

Except mechanical cleaning, colonies of microorganisms are also involved in the process, which are formed in containers after 2-5 weeks and process organic pollution.

After processing in the second chamber, wastewater is sent to a storage facility or drainage system. In the first case, the accumulated water is drained after a while. If a drainage well is used, the liquid is discharged into the ground. In the sump, discharges are cleaned by 65-80%. If you need more high level cleaning, use the third barrel. The more compartments are discharged, the higher the degree of purification becomes. For suburban area double level is sufficient.

Methane generated during wastewater treatment is removed by ventilation. It is placed vertically at the exit of the sewer from the house or near the last section of autonomous equipment. To get rid of unpleasant odors, a siphon is installed, it is possible in the form of a “knee”.

How to choose a place to install a septic tank

If you decide to install a septic tank from barrels in the country with your own hands, choose the right place. The structure must be removed from:

Wells, wells and other sources at 30-50 m;
The foundation of buildings - 5-10 m;
Green spaces: shrubs / trees - 3-5 m;
Underground pipelines - 10-15 m;
basement and garden beds- 10-20 m.

Wastewater enters the system in small portions, because the owners of suburban real estate do not visit the dacha every weekend. Stick to building and sanitary restrictions always needed. Any sanitary norm has its own reasons, its violation will lead to problems with health and the law.

Important! Strictly observe the distance between the source of drinking water and the septic tank. This will avoid contamination, reduce the likelihood of water contamination and the spread of infections.

Equipping a homemade septic tank from plastic barrels, do not place the object near the foundation, the treated drains will begin to destroy its foundation. When choosing a location, the following factors are taken into account:

The composition and properties of the soil - sandy soil easily passes water, clay, loamy and other dense soils are unsuitable for absorbing large amounts of moisture, so they build storage tanks or expand the drainage system with the addition a large number sand and gravel.
The relief of the site - the house should be placed above the sump, and not vice versa, because the process occurs by gravity and the slope in the opposite direction will not allow wastewater to move in the right direction.
Groundwater Depth – Closely lying groundwater may be polluted by runoff or the ground near the tanks will become waterlogged due to excess moisture. In this case, the concreting of the drain pit is carried out.
Climatic conditions - it is necessary to ensure that the chambers do not freeze at low temperature indicators. If the pipe is installed above the freezing level, it is insulated with waterproof insulation.
Free access for sewers - you need to create access roads for the car to extract sewage.

What are the design features

The more sections the waste mass overcomes, the cleaner it becomes at the final stage. The most common model is a three-section, designed to filter viscous dark brown drains.

At the final stage, a hole is made in the last barrel leading to the filtration field. This post-treatment drainage mechanism consists of perforated pipes located underground. The pipeline is placed in trenches, where geotextile is preliminarily laid, sand / gravel is backfilled from above.

Note! Such a complex structure is recommended to be installed to clean the dirtiest sewage.

To clean the light sewage of a bath or kitchen, one / two compartments are enough. The simplest two-chamber system consists of tanks and an outer plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. If the diameter is smaller, the structure will not be able to handle more drains. Iron barrels are installed if groundwater is below 8 meters; if the level is slightly higher - there are no better plastic containers.

The slope of the sewer line is 0.03. The vertical value is 3 cm per meter. Post-treatment of light effluents is carried out in an absorption well located in a second tank filled with gravel / sand.

What materials and tools are needed

After preliminary calculations chamber septic tank: volume, sewerage range, hydrogeological status of the soil, freezing depth, size and required slope - you can start building a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands.

For work you will need:

Two or three barrels made of polymer material with a volume of 200 / 400l.
Corrugated plastic + sewer pipes for installation. The length is determined by the distance from the house to the containers with sewage + a margin of several meters.
Ventilation pipes with a neck diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
Corners and tees.
Couplings, flanges.
Cement.
Small crushed stone with 49 mm granular elements.
Adhesive for joining PVC components.
Epoxy sealant.
Rubber seal to seal the pipe inlet.
Sand.
Sewer covers.

If there is a possibility of waterlogging, concreting of the lower layer of the pit will be required. For this you need:

Concrete mixer;
Electric mixer;
mixing tank;
Adapter fitting and steel cables for fastening barrels at the bottom.

If the soil is soft, reinforcing the walls of the pit with a wooden or steel mesh is simply essential. Mineral wool for pipelines, foam or polystyrene is needed to build an insulating layer for sewer equipment.

What is the sequence of work

To properly make a septic tank from a barrel, you need to remove sewer pipes from the house before starting excavation work. From the point of withdrawal, start digging a trench forward to the sewage sump. The sewerage device depends on the following procedure:

Important! After installation, fill the barrels with water 20-30 cm below the neck. This will help protect the septic structure from deformation under ground pressure.

After testing for water permeability, proceed to the final backfill. We lay down gradually layer by layer. You can throw rocks, bricks, and other construction garbage to get a rigid structure.

The upper part is insulated and optionally covered with foam. Only sewer tank caps and ventilation ducts must remain above the ground.

The general principle of organizing individual sewage

When the septic tank is ready for operation, general rules for its use are established for each family member. Small volumes of tanks require more attention to the number of liters used. It takes three days for partial filtration of water to occur. Therefore, make sure that the containers are not overfilled within 72 hours.

Do not dispose of bad or non-degradable items in the sink. Only organic is suitable for this method of getting rid of sewage. If you plan to clean the chambers yourself, then the silt from the barrels should be placed in a fertilizer pit and mixed with weeds and soil. After a couple of years, they will turn into an excellent fertilizer.

Do not put off the problem of waste disposal until tomorrow, start planning the model today. Since how to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands - The best decision, allowing you to create an autonomous sewage system in the country with a minimum investment.

In a city apartment, plumbing and sewerage are the norm. At the dacha, I also want comfortable conditions stay. However, not everywhere there are centralized treatment systems outside the city. You have to equip the septic tank yourself. There are many options for this, but a do-it-yourself sewerage system in a country house from a barrel is the simplest and cheapest of them.

For a private house, a septic tank is better to buy a factory-assembled, large capacity and with the use of bioenzymes. And for use in the country, a small barrel sewer with mechanical cleaning and soil cleaning.

How to choose the right place for a septic tank in the country

For country house characterized by a small amount of wastewater. They do not live in it permanently, but only on short visits, on weekends. However, sanitary and building standards are the same for everyone.

Sewerage from barrels - the best option for a summer cottage

The septic tank of an autonomous sewer in the country should be removed from:

reservoirs, a drinking well or a well of 30 meters;
garden beds for 10 meters;
the foundation of the house by 5 meters;
underground pipelines with gas for 5 meters;
green spaces (shrubs and trees) by 3 meters.

Attention! Observance of minimum distances to sources of drinking water is the key to preventing their pollution and the spread of infections.

If the septic tank is placed too close to the country house, then the water will certainly begin to destroy its foundation. And the relevant sanitary standards are prescribed for a reason. Failure to comply with them can entail not only health problems, but also liability under the law.

Also, when choosing the location of the septic tank, you must consider:

Properties and composition of the soil - sand easily passes moisture, and on clay soil you will have to equip a sand cushion.
The relief of the site - the sewer pipe should be laid at a slope from the house to the barrels, the water should move by gravity.
The depth of groundwater.
Climatic conditions - the maximum possible negative air temperatures in winter and the level of freezing of the earth.
The inevitability of the arrival of a sewage truck - containers must be available for cleaning and pumping out sewage.

Scheme of the simplest sewage system from a pair of containers

The simplest sewer at the cottage is outdoor pipeline and a couple of iron barrels as a septic tank. Pipes for self-laying you can take plastic with a diameter of 110 mm. A smaller diameter will not cope with the peak volume of effluents, and you will have to overpay for a larger one.

Remember! It is recommended to install a septic tank from barrels as the basis of the sewer system in the country house only with groundwater not higher than 3-4 meters.

The slope of the sewer pipeline for reliable gravity flow must be at least 0.03 (vertically 3 cm / running meter pipes). When laying pipes above the freezing level, it will be necessary to perform insulation using moisture-resistant heat-insulating materials.

Barrel sewer device

Which containers are better to use: iron or plastic

When arranging sewerage in the country with their own hands, barrels made of plastic or metal are used. The first option is easier to install and more resistant to corrosion, but when the soil swells, the plastic container will be easily crushed.

Iron barrels of 200 liters are more popular with Russian summer residents. This metal container for coatings after firing becomes an ideal container for creating sewer sump. It is durable, cheap and lightweight, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

Iron two hundred liter barrels popular with domestic summer residents because of their availability

The only drawback of any iron is its susceptibility to corrosion. However, you can always treat an iron barrel for sewage with bituminous mastic or other anti-corrosion compound.

Advice! In order for the metal container for the sump to last longer, it must be coated with anti-corrosion protection (bitumen, paintwork materials).

Another nuance of choosing between an iron and a plastic barrel is their weight and the need to fill the foundation under them. Plastic is light, it will have to be fixed on a pre-prepared concrete pad, otherwise a plastic sump during floods may simply float up. With heavier iron, there are no such problems.

According to SNiP, the volume of the septic tank must contain three daily measures of runoff from the house. This is at a water consumption of up to 5 cubic meters / day - just for the country sewerage. But at the same time, it must be understood that these data are indicated for regularly cleaned sedimentation tanks. At least twice a year, they must be cleaned without fail, removing accumulated sludge and debris.

The principle of operation of a country septic tank from two barrels

A standard two-chamber septic tank for a summer residence consists of a pair of metal barrels:

Sealed sump for primary coarse cleaning.
Tanks for soil cleaning.

A variant with one hermetic tank is possible. But then it must be much bigger size and needs to be constantly cleaned. And for this it will be necessary to call vacuum trucks with special equipment, paying for their work. This type of sewage is more suitable for a small cottage, and for summer cottages it is better to use an alternative from a pair of iron barrels.

In this case, the effluents first enter the first tank, where they are clarified and coarse sediment (sand, vegetable peels and other debris) settles. As soon as this tank is filled to capacity, partially purified water begins to flow into the second barrel, which has no bottom. As a result, moisture passing through sand filter and additionally cleansed, goes into the ground.

Conditional diagram of a two-chamber septic tank

The first barrel should be slightly higher than the second. So the water will drain naturally without any pumps. Also in the first container, it is imperative to make a lid and a vent. Sooner or later, solid sediment will have to be cleaned out of it. And ventilation is necessary for the flow of anaerobic processes.

Sewerage technology in the country

First, earthworks. It is necessary to dig a trench for a sewer pipe from the house and a pit for iron barrels. From above, the containers will be sprinkled with soil 20–30 cm thick. The hole will have to be dug deep enough. There should be a gap of 25 cm on the sides.

If you plan to use the sewerage system in the country house made with your own hands from barrels in winter, it should be insulated. But in this case, at least a third of the tank must be below the freezing zone, otherwise the water in the tank will freeze. And this is an additional deepening of the pit. You may even need to call an excavator to dig.

In the first: on top - the inlet for the pipe from the house, and on the side - the outlet for overflow into the next tank.
In the second: on the side - incoming overflow, and from below - into the whole bottom for drainage into the ground.

The inlet should be located 10–20 cm higher than the outlet, otherwise the water may go back when overflowing.

Advice! In order not to engage in welding on metal, it is enough to cut even holes and insert rubber seals of the appropriate size into them. And they already introduce plastic pipes and coat everything with sealant.

All pipes inserted into the barrel must be carefully sealed.

A pillow of sand and gravel 10 to 30 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Then the barrels are installed and connected by a jumper. If necessary, they are covered with insulation (foam or expanded clay).

Before connecting the sewer pipe, the containers must be covered with soil on the sides. The earth should be thrown in layers of 20 cm and compacted each of them.

It remains to connect the sewer pipe from the country house. It is inserted into the first tank using a tee, the free end of which is designed to organize the ventilation of the septic tank. In the end, everything is sprinkled on top with soil.

Septic tank maintenance and cleaning

Gradually, the first settling tank will be filled with solid waste and sludge from their decomposition. To clean it, you will have to call a sewer truck.

On average, the volume of sludge increases by 60–80 liters over the summer. But with a constant visit to the dacha, the septic tank can overflow long before the end of the season.

It is necessary to invite vacuum cleaners regularly

To prevent this, special biological additives are used that significantly accelerate the decomposition processes and reduce the amount of waste. However, at least once a year, barrels should be cleaned by professional vacuum cleaners.

Video: general principles of sewerage in the country

You can equip a sewer from metal barrels with your own hands in the country. There is nothing complicated here, all the necessary materials can be found on construction market. Such a septic tank will cost inexpensively. However, it is not always worth saving too much on safety and health. Pollution by untreated runoff of soil and water bodies is punishable by law. Consultations and advice from professionals on the issue of sewer system installation will never hurt.

To make life in the country comfortable, it is necessary to carry out the main communications - plumbing and sewerage. In suburban areas, there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each owner of the house solves the problem on his own. Periodic use of the dwelling does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment, it is enough to arrange a septic tank.

Often in summer cottages, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is fully justified, but with the installation of plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer in the country with our own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping out), as well as demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Sewerage should be built according to the developed project, including schemes for external and internal piping.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer sedimentary rock(crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) for filtering wastewater.
An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and fixed to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings of a large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line must lie at a slope providing the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. IN two-chamber septic tanks the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you will get the daily rate of water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe - 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system for wastewater treatment, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. Great inexpensive material to implement the plan - concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

Affordable price.
Unpretentiousness during operation.
The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

Presence bad smell. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must contain a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before the beginning concrete works, it is necessary to drain part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a dull bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is laborious. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, in which holes are provided for mounting sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfilling of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a high percentage of sand in its composition. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system according to the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are fastened with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For mounting reliable system for wastewater treatment, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

geotextile - 80 m 2;
sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
building level;
drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

Shovel.
Electric jigsaw.
Rake.

For cottage/small country house if used economically, standard plastic barrels will do. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex work by installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

During the construction of a summer house or a country house, the arrangement of sewage and wastewater disposal systems is of no small importance. If the estimated total amount of wastewater is small, then there is no need to connect to a centralized sewerage system, and if this is not possible, purchase expensive treatment facilities industrial production. With basic skills in construction, most owners suburban areas it is quite possible to independently make a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands. In the last article, we looked at how a septic tank works, so further in the article, step-by-step instructions for making a treatment plant for a country house with a small amount of domestic waste will be described.

Preparatory work

Like any responsible event, the construction of a wastewater treatment plant requires competent calculation and compliance with certain rules and recommendations.

Construction materials

To equip this treatment plant, you will need the following materials:

Advice! To prevent freezing of water in sewer pipes in winter period, as well as their deformation by the forces of frost heaving of the soil, it is recommended to lay the sewage line to a depth that is below the normative depth of soil freezing in your region. The value of this depth for your region can be found fromSNiP 2.04.02-84Water supply. External networks and structures.

Excavation

After the site for the installation of the septic tank has been selected and prepared, it is necessary to dig a pit for it, and trenches for laying sewer pipes. Using a tape measure and a hydraulic level, check the angle of the trench bottom and the elevation difference from the house to the septic tank. The dimensions of the pit along the perimeter should be 300 mm. more septic tank design in each direction. The depth should be such that the upper part of the installed septic tank is below the level of the freezing depth of the soil.

The bottom of the pit and trenches must be sealed with manual tamper or vibrating plates, sprinkle with crushed stone and make a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 100 mm. If there is such a possibility, ideal option there will be a concrete cushion at the bottom of the pit. When pouring it, it is necessary to provide fasteners in advance, with the help of which the barrels will be attached to the base. This is done so that during the spring floods, when not enough water in barrels, the whole structure was not squeezed out to the surface under the influence of the forces of Archimedes.

Advice! To prevent the formation of blockages in the sewage system, the sewerage system from the house to the septic tank should run in a straight line. When digging trenches, try to keep them straight.

Production of water treatment elements

In order to make a septic tank from barrels in the country with your own hands, some refinement of the main constituent elements, that is, barrels, will be required. Next, all the necessary stages of the work will be described:

In the top cover of one of the barrels, let's call it chamber No. 1, you need to cut round hole for an inlet pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.
On the side of chamber No. 1, at a distance of 200 mm. cut one hole with a diameter of 110 mm from the top edge. for transition pipe plastic corner 90°, with which it will connect to the camera number 2.
In the top cover of the second barrel, we will call it chamber No. 2, cut a hole with a diameter of 110 mm. for the transition angle, with which it will be connected to camera No. 1.
On the side of chamber No. 2, at a distance of 200 mm. from the upper edge, at an angle of 90 ° relative to each other, cut two more holes with a diameter of 110 mm. for outlet pipes through which water will be supplied to the filtration field.

Installation of a cleaning system

When all the elements of the system are ready for installation, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the septic tank at the place of its installation. Below is a sequential description of further actions:

Install chambers No. 1 and 2 in the pit. If there is a concrete cushion, you need to fix the barrels, paying attention to their correct installation. The inlet pipe of barrel No. 1 should be turned towards the house.
Connect the barrels with sewer pipes, according to the photo and description.
Lubricate all connections with a sealing compound.
Supply water to chamber No. 1 until the entire system is completely filled with water. A sign of filling is the overflow of water from the outlet pipes of chamber No. 2.
Fill the pit dry cement-sand mixture, periodically ramming each layer of backfill.
Above the top cover of chamber No. 1, build a manhole with ventilation riser. It will serve to clean the system and remove solid particles of debris that have fallen into the sewer.
Take measures to insulate the manhole. For this purpose, you can use a thick construction foam.

Advice! To seal the elements of the treatment system, it is best to use a roofing construction sealant bituminous, as it is more reliable and durable than silicone sealant.

Arrangement of a soil post-treatment system

After the wastewater has undergone primary treatment in a two-chamber septic tank, it must be sent for final treatment and disposal, for which the filtration field serves. They are built as follows:

In a prepared place, it is desirable to dig a wide trench with a natural slope.
Lay geotextile in it, so that it completely covers the bottom and sides of the trench.
On top of it, pour a layer of crushed stone, 300 mm thick. lay two drainage pipes on top of the rubble, connected to the outlet pipes of chamber No. 2. Equip the blind end of each drainage pipe with a ventilation riser.
Cover the drainage system with rubble and wrap with the rest of the geotextile.
After that, you can fill the trenches with earth, and sow the territory of the filtration fields with flowers or garden grass.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the description, it is not difficult to build a septic tank from barrels for giving with your own hands. To do this, you need to have a desire, and the most minimal set of necessary materials that you can always buy at quite affordable price. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic, and if you have any questions, you can ask them at any time in the comments.

stroimsamydom.ru

The location of the septic tank is influenced by several factors:

the relief of the site, the movement of water is carried out by gravity, so it is important to take into account the slope;
groundwater depth;
frost mark in winter;
location of drinking water supply or water source;
soil composition - sandy soil easily passes liquid, therefore it can provoke pollution of groundwater.

The installation of a septic tank requires certain conditions to be met: the distance from the house must be at least 5 meters, the distance from the drinking well - 30 meters, from green spaces - 3 meters. The place is equipped with the possibility of arrival of a sewage truck.

Works on the device of internal sewerage

Having a layout of all points of the system, and purchasing necessary material, you can proceed with its installation. The central riser is installed first. Its diameter is chosen about 110 mm, and for the removal of gases, the upper part protrudes above the roof level or is displayed in the attic. Two types of pipes are used:

PVC - the material is chemically resistant, not subject to corrosion and overgrowth, the smooth inner surface freely passes drains, installation is carried out by the socket method. Prices for PVC are quite affordable.
Cast iron - reliable and durable, but have a large mass and are difficult to install. The cost of such pipes is significantly higher than plastic ones.
Ceramic - have excellent characteristics, but are expensive.

After installing the main riser, located 4 meters from the windows, horizontal pipelines are laid. The ability to monitor the condition of the pipes and perform cleaning is provided by inspection hatches, which are located above the toilet and at the lowest point of the system. When installing pipes, avoid 90-degree turns that impede the movement of drains.

Each plumbing fixture in its device must have a siphon with a water seal that prevents the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the room. The pipe from the toilet is connected directly, with a pipe of at least 100 mm in diameter.

If a 90 degree rotation device is required, then it is implemented using two 45 degree corner elements.

To connect the sink and bathtub, pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient. Lines should be placed at an angle that ensures the movement of water. The sewerage device in the country provides for the preliminary preparation of a hole in the foundation for the withdrawal of the sewer pipe to the outside. On the output, be sure to set check valve, which does not allow wastewater to flow back.

General rules for SNiP

During installation, pipes from the same material are used.
The pipeline must be sealed.
The connection of the line with the riser is carried out with an oblique cross or a tee.
The slope of a pipe Ø 110 mm is 20 mm, with a size of 50 mm - 30 mm per linear meter.
For country houses uses non-pressure sewage, the movement of effluents occurs by gravity.
Allowed hidden option pipe installation, and the connection to the main riser must be open.

Septic tank device

If it is not possible to connect the internal sewerage of the cottage to the central one, a septic tank is installed. This device is designed to collect and purify wastewater. Septic tanks differ in design, material and method of cleaning. Before you conduct sewerage in the country, you need to decide on the choice of wastewater receiver. For the construction of septic tanks, they use: plastic or metal containers, brickwork, reinforced concrete structures. The treatment of polluted waters is carried out through soil filtration, biological treatment or wastewater is accumulated and pumped out by a sewage machine.

The easiest way is to install a sealed container in which wastewater accumulates, after filling it is pumped out with special equipment. The disadvantage of this method is the significant cost of regularly ordering the services of sewers.

A more complex device has a septic tank capable of partially treating drains. On sale will find several options for such a device, but their price is quite high. With little knowledge and a desire to save money, you can make a septic tank yourself.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and fixed to a concrete slab in the pit.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line should lie at a slope that ensures the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped manhole. For the line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

Design that does not require regular pumping waste water, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous sewage treatment system, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

Affordable price.
Unpretentiousness during operation.
The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before starting concrete work, it is necessary to drain a part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For the installation of a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

geotextile - 80 m 2;
sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
building level;
drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

Shovel.
Electric jigsaw.
Rake.

For a summer house / small country house, with economical use, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

After watching the video and doing all the work correctly, all that remains is to check the system and enjoy the benefits of civilization.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from the eurocube (scheme).
How to defrost a sewer pipe with chemistry.

Video

This video describes the general principle of installing sewerage in the country:

Photo

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

Choosing a place for a septic tank

When choosing a place for a future septic tank, pay attention to the location of the wells with drinking water and residential buildings. According to the norms, the septic tank should be located no closer than 5 m from the dwelling and 15 m from the source of drinking water.

Installation of plastic barrels

So, you have chosen a place for installation and decided to build a septic tank from plastic barrels. You can start working:

For a small suburban area, two or three barrels with a capacity of 200-250 liters are enough. Taking a little more space than the diameter of the barrels, mark out the place for the pit. Keep in mind that the distance between the barrels should be 25 cm, and they should be in one line.
Get down to the hardest work with the soil. The depth of the pit is dug in steps. First, a hole is dug along the height of the first barrel. Each next barrel will be installed 15 cm deeper than the previous one.
The bottom of the first two pits is covered with a sand cushion 10 cm thick. After that, they are well leveled and rammed. If your finances allow, then the bottom can be concreted. Reinforcement is poured with concrete, bent in the form of a loop with a protrusion outward. Barrels will then be tied to these loops.
The bottom of the pit under the third barrel is covered with a layer of sand of about 50 cm. A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is poured on top of the sand. This layer will filter the effluents that go into the ground.
At the bottom of the first two holes, install barrels with a bottom. They will serve as septic tanks. If the bottom is made of concrete and there are loops, then with the help of belts we fasten the barrels to the loops. This device will protect the barrels from floating in the spring.
Install the first barrel with a removable top cover. Through it you will clean the container from precipitation. From the top of the barrel, remove the riser from the sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for the release of gases.
If the design of the septic tank provides for a filtration field, then cut holes in the second barrel located one above the other at an angle of 45 °. Pipes leading to the filtration field will be connected to these holes.
In the third barrel, cut the bottom with a jigsaw or grinder, and place the pit on the filter bottom.
The barrels will be connected to each other by overflow pipes. Therefore, in the sides of the barrels it is necessary to cut holes with a diameter of 110 mm for sewer pipes. The opening of the pipe coming out of the barrel should be 10 cm lower than the inlet.
Using a sewer pipe, connect the barrels together. Seal the joints with sealant.
After the entire installation procedure, backfill the pit. The pit is filled in layers. As the layer is added, water is poured into the barrel so that the pressure does not crush the barrel. And fill the space between the walls of the barrels with a dry mixture of sand and cement. Each layer is compacted as it falls asleep.

Photo

Filtration field

If the groundwater is deep, a filtration field can be added to the septic tank. In this case, the installation of a third filter barrel is impractical, and it is not installed. Let's take a quick look at how to make a filter field the right way:

A trench is dug near the installed septic tank. Its width should accommodate 2 perforated pipes, and its depth should be about 70 cm.
Geotextile fabric is laid in the trench.
A perforated pipe is laid on top of the canvas and connected to the second barrel.
The top of the pipe is covered with rubble, and covered with the remaining edges of the canvas. The edges of the canvas should overlap each other by 15 cm.
Wrapped pipes are covered with soil. If desired, the filtration field can be sown with lawn grass.

Installation of metal barrels

If you have metal 200 liter barrels lying around, you can save on buying plastic ones. The fact is that a septic tank can also be made from metal barrels. The scheme and installation procedure are the same as when installing a septic tank from plastic barrels. Only for cutting holes in the sides of metal barrels you will need an electric jigsaw with a metal file. You will also need a welding machine that can weld overflow pipes and a pipe for the exit of gases from the first barrel. To increase the capacity of the septic tank, barrels can be vertically welded to each other. Jumpers are welded at the welding points for strength. The metal tends to rust quickly, so it is advisable to treat the surface of the barrels with a protective compound before installation. It can be bitumen or any other means of similar action, sold in a hardware store.

stroysvoimirukami.ru

The principle of operation of the treatment plant

In septic tanks of this type, wastewater is cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of three series-connected containers.
Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with close to the surface groundwater. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
with a minimum amount of drains, typical for periodic visits to a suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, under the terms sanitary norms the septic tank should hold three daily "servings".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, for example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

low cost (used containers are often used),
simplicity of device and installation,
less excavation due to the small volume of the tanks.

On sale now there are ready-made plastic storage tanks for sewage. More on this in our separate article.

Overview of popular models Grundfos pumps for sewer systems you will find here.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually use the most affordable option However, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

light weight, easy to transport and install,
ease of making holes for pipes,
absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Flaws:

due to their small mass, plastic barrels require reliable fastening to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to the destruction of the sewer system,
due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank from metal barrels:

high strength,
structural rigidity,
water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Flaws:

instability to corrosion, requiring the implementation of a waterproofing coating and periodic checks of its condition,
a slightly more complex hole making process requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often a home-made septic tank from barrels is performed using plastic containers.

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions during the work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

metal or plastic barrels,
sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
sewer covers for barrels,
pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
corner fittings,
flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
sealant,
cement,
sand,
rubble,
fastening cables or clamps.

Tools:

Bulgarian,
shovel,
electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before starting installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but the principle of the device remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: Making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewerage from the inside and outside are covered with an anti-corrosion compound.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a gradual decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tank. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. It is better to fill plastic containers with water at this time to avoid deformation. In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

A separate article of the site presents a diagram of a septic tank made of concrete rings - it will be easier to create a treatment plant with it yourself, but you still can’t do without loading equipment.

The sewerage system for a private house is described here. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells presented here. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is only suitable for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to observe sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source of drinking water should be at least 50 meters. garden plants and fruit trees must be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

okanalizacii.ru

Advantages of a homemade septic tank

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of treatment systems, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:

the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, out of order - where it is cheaper, secondly, using the available improvised means;
installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you equip the toilet first. In the future, connect a bathhouse, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe outlets brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a while.

Nobody better than the master who built the septic tank, does not know the weaknesses of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although you should not make shortcomings, but only he will take them into account during operation. It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “sticking out” only the merits of the product. An independent builder will know what can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms for family water consumption, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the area around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor cleaning system throughput.

Varieties of designs and schemes

A home-made septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are connected in series with each other by branch pipes so that the filling of the sections is carried out in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different height levels.

The entrance and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that water begins to flow into the next tank before the water level rises to the inlet pipe. Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of pollution settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter ones continue their way through the system.

In order for the methane formed during the processing of wastewater to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, showers, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a "knee" - in order to bad smell did not poison existence.

The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of wastewater. The more sections the sewer passes through, the higher the final degree of cleaning.

The most common is a three-section septic tank scheme used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify the contaminated water coming from the bath or kitchen, the use of one or two barrel sections will be enough.

From the last barrel, they arrange an exit to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains. The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, lined with geotextile, on top of which pipes are laid and sand and gravel mixture is covered.

The function of ground aftertreatment of gray effluents supplied by baths, washing machines, kitchen sinks etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the last barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom is cut out from the tank, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Home-made treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

from plastic barrels;
from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);
from concrete rings;
from car tires.

The metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to fix it from floating up. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment during construction sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness in a tire tank if there is no experience with such materials.

A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:

light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
corrosion resistance. This moment is important not only in terms of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
the optimal way of construction, because installation of the system does not require electric welding;
tightness of tanks, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewer facility;
manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with a cutting tool.

If necessary, slight cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Basic accommodation requirements

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in the regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - " Building Regulations and Rules ”- a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is the specified one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewerage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norma.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
well, well - 30-50 m;
lake, pond - 30 m;
bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
road - 5 m.

Before installing an autonomous septic tank from plastic barrels, its location must be discussed with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.

But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewerage with systems of soil post-treatment in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of the ability to pass water will be “telled” by the stagnation of flood waters during the melting of snow and during periods of heavy liquid precipitation. This means that clayey soils predominate in the section, which do not allow water to pass through and into itself.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. They only accumulate waste masses for pumping out by sewers, and do not process them. A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Soils saturated with water will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies effluents by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be made "by eye". But making up detailed plan and the development of a project, even in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and laying the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time endures, then before you start work, part of the necessary, it is quite possible, can be obtained for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending money comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, the careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as discipline. In addition, a well-drawn to scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expense. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.

As you plan, keep the following in mind:

even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
the sections of the septic tank should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that excludes soil washing in case emergency flooding septic tank and the occurrence of leaks;
the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
the external line of an autonomous sewer must be provided with a manhole for inspection and cleaning.
for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional manhole should be built.

If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

If for the future it is planned to erect buildings whose operation will require the use of water (bathhouse, washing, some kind of handicraft), provide places for “tie-in” of water runoff from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the waste water.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum truck, do not make the first chamber too voluminous - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, consider either easy dismantling of the chamber or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of a storage tank is possible, then carry out the design taking into account the provision of unhindered passage of sewage equipment.

Preparation of building materials for work

The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

pipes for the highway with a diameter of 110 mm;
fittings, angles, etc., in the quantity corresponding to your project.
the barrels themselves, designed for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with sufficiently thick walls so that the joints of the pipes with them are as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness from mechanical stress.

Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras during negative temperatures. You can use the old village way - put wooden sticks in containers. At the very least, the ice that expands when it freezes will squeeze the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be superfluous - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and it will not be possible to cover it with any protective layer - no coating will hold on silicone.

The best option would be to use a car body sealant - it has good adhesion (sticking ability), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Best Features has a polyurethane sealant, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, rebar - for pouring bases for barrels. Sand should not be subject to any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it's not scary, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution. As reinforcement, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook a reinforcing mesh - it is enough to fasten the bars with wire.

It will require crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to backfill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;

The plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded studs - something for which you can "anchor" the barrel.

It is appropriate to use threaded studs for sale - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to ram the earth, which is filled into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. It is also possible to provide for the thermal insulation of the container - with slag, with foam plastic - in general, with what will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the excavation, it is necessary to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for the device. concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the pit with cement. It is absolutely not necessary to make formwork at the same time, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and compact the bottom before that.

If there is any doubt about the strength of the walls of the pit, then they must be strengthened with a board before pouring. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - with the alignment of the horizon. Do not forget about the embedded parts for anchoring barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring one just for this job (unless there are plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.

Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the desired consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before directly filling the foundation, moisten the compacting backfill with water.

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve a better filling of the future site with a solution.

To prevent the grout from cracking as it dries, especially in hot weather, cover the grouted area with a thick cloth after the cement has set and pour water over it. For this purpose, a tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric is better suited - it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.

Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability. All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the processing of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80-100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, triangular scarves for rigidity can also be installed on the same sealant, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape, etc. - so that they do not "slide".

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final backfilling of trenches and pits. Compact the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where it is possible that machinery will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring at least from boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is to cut holes in the barrels for pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in size - let the pipes be inserted with effort, cut off the excess if necessary.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise, when backfilling and tamping trenches and pits, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the means at hand - wire, cutting boards, bricks, whatever.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the details, to place everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with stakes and twine, you can start digging.

In the first part installation work the preparation of the components of the septic system and the installation of the receiving tank in the pit were carried out. Next, we carry out the device of a chamber that performs the functions of an absorbing well:

The stages of installation of the receiving and absorbing chambers have been completed. Now we are starting to build a soil treatment system, for which we have already installed a beacon in the form of the first peg and made a device that determines the slope.

Installation of a septic system with a filtration field is completed, it remains to fill the pit with soil and put the facility into operation:

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The use of plastic barrels in the manufacture of a septic tank:

The final stages of the device:

The general principle of organizing autonomous sewage:

When a homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels is ready for use, work out the rules for its use for family members. Be sure to insist that non-degradable items such as rags, cigarette butts, small items made of synthetic materials are not thrown into the sinks.

In the event that you will clean the chambers yourself, you can prepare a waste pit in advance. Practice shows that organic sludge extracted from a septic tank, mixed with earth and mowed grass, turns into ordinary fertile soil after three years.

sovet-ingenera.com

Making a septic tank with your own hands from barrels is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to provide wastewater treatment. Its manufacture does not require much time, and the materials are available. At the same time, a treatment plant of this type is quite effective and gives high quality removal of impurities.

In septic tanks of this type, wastewater is cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of three series-connected containers.
Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with groundwater close to the surface. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
with a minimum number of drains, typical for periodic visits to a suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the conditions of sanitary standards, the septic tank must contain three daily "portions".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, for example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

low cost (used containers are often used),
simplicity of device and installation,
less excavation due to the small volume of the tanks.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually the most affordable option is used, however, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

light weight, easy to transport and install,
ease of making holes for pipes,
absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Flaws:

due to their small mass, plastic barrels require reliable fastening to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to the destruction of the sewer system,
due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank from metal barrels:

high strength,
structural rigidity,
water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Flaws:

instability to corrosion, requiring the implementation of a waterproofing coating and periodic checks of its condition,
a slightly more complex hole making process requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often a home-made septic tank from barrels is performed using plastic containers.

Materials and tools

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions during the work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

metal or plastic barrels,
sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
sewer covers for barrels,
pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
corner fittings,
flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
sealant,
cement,
sand,
rubble,
fastening cables or clamps.

Tools:

Bulgarian,
shovel,
electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but it remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: When making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewage are coated with an anti-corrosion compound from the inside and outside.

For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a gradual decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tank. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

In a separate article of the site, it is presented with it that it will be easier to create a treatment plant, but it will still not be possible to do without loading equipment.

Installation of a sewer system for a private house. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells are presented. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

It is important to comply with sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source of drinking water should be at least 50 meters. Garden plants and fruit trees should be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.