Most of the owners suburban areas they equip a bathhouse on the territory, it does not matter if it is a house with permanent residence or a summer house. Traditional construction requires wastewater disposal. Of course, you can buy a ready-made system, but the designs are expensive.
There is always a way out - to make a septic tank for a bath with your own hands.
The first thing to decide is whether the building will be equipped with a toilet.
Drains from a bath without a bathroom contain the epidermis, soapy water, a little fat and foliage from brooms. That allows the installation of any system without pumping. The presence of a latrine in the building changes the nature of the waters; accordingly, not every sump will cope with sewer waste.
Septic tanks for a bath can be: single-chamber and two-section.
Kinds. Single chamber
Consider the options for single-chamber septic tanks and the type of installation.
Pit for sewage under the bath
The simplest and cheap option septic tank. Organized at the time of laying the foundation. It is worth noting that the pit is relevant if there is no toilet in the bath, the building itself is not large and is not used so often.
During the construction process, a foundation pit is dug below the foundation, it is sealed, the bottom is covered with sand, crushed stone and gravel by 50-60 cm. filter and subsequent care in the ground.
At this time, this type of septic tank is a thing of the past and is used extremely rarely.
Tire septic tank
Next to the building, a pit breaks out, 2-3 meters deep. The diameter of the pit should be 15-20 cm larger than the diameter of the tires.
The bottom of the pit is covered with a natural filter. The tires themselves should be cut off on the sides, for a tighter fit to each other. Between themselves, the products are connected by any improvised means. Seams are sealed.
A hole is made in the top tire for a pipe, followed by a drain pipe connection.
The finished septic tank is closed with a sheet of iron or plastic. The remaining space in the pit is covered with soil along with the cover.
The septic tank is ready for use.
This design has such disadvantages as:
Pros:
- Cheap
- Easy and fast installation
- Cannot be cleaned
- When it has worked out, it is simply covered with soil and mounted elsewhere.
Septic tank made of concrete rings
The installation of such a septic tank is more complicated. For septic tanks, standard rings and reinforced concrete are usually used with a height of 1 m and an outer diameter of 1.16 m
Rings are produced with special connecting elements to facilitate installation. Installation takes place according to the scheme of a well from tires. A pit is being organized.
Rings drop. Connected, the seams are sealed. The bottom of the natural filter. A pipe is supplied for draining wastewater. Cover tightly with a lid (they are also commercially available). Fall asleep with soil.
Reinforced concrete very durable material. The reinforcement inside the rings stops the deformation of products during low temperatures and heavy loads.
Septic tank from a plastic barrel
Single chamber drainage septic tank.
A barrel of the required size is purchased (usually 200 liters). Holes are drilled over its entire surface at the same distance from each other. A hole is dug larger than the product by 80 cm in depth and 60 cm in diameter.
A pipe is mounted at the bottom of the barrel. The main thing is to observe the sealing of the connection between the pipe and the barrel. The bottom of the pit is covered with sand and compacted (it is good to spill it with water), then it is covered with a mixture of sand, gravel, crushed stone.
A barrel is installed on the finished bottom, with the bottom with a pipe up.
The product is wrapped with geofabric to avoid clogging of holes. The remaining space around the barrel is covered with a natural filter up to the nozzle. The pipe is connected. From above it is covered with soil and lined with turf.
Single-chamber septic tank made of plastic rings
The installation of this septic tank is completely similar to the installation of a sump from concrete rings.
The difference is more easy installation products.
Attention! All of the above septic tanks are designed for installation for a bath without a toilet.
Septic tanks for a bath with a toilet
As already mentioned above, a bathhouse with a toilet at the outlet produces effluents containing human waste products, which implies additional water purification.
For buildings with a latrine, for the most part, septic tanks with two chambers or two sections are installed.
The two chambers are separate reservoirs.
Two-section - one drive divided by a partition into two sections.
Both septic tanks work on the same principle.
In the first chamber, liquid settles. Large particles settle to the bottom and form silt, and such as fat and insoluble rise to the surface and become a crust.
After settling the floor, the purified liquid flows through the connecting pipe into the second tank, where additional settling and filtration takes place using a natural filter.
Two-chamber septic tank made of concrete rings
Septic tank from plastic barrels
This septic tank can be made in several versions.
- The first. Installation is carried out according to the type of concrete rings.
- Second option. A sump from a plastic barrel with a sealed lid, but a well can be made from a barrel with perforation and geofabric for filtration.
- Third option. The barrel is divided into two sections by a partition. Here it is paramount to observe the tightness of the compartments. The second compartment can be made drainage or additionally build a drainage well.
This cleaning method is more efficient.
Two-chamber septic tank made of plastic rings
The installation is the same as that of a septic tank made of concrete rings.
concrete septic tank
This type of treatment plant will require certain monetary and physical costs.
- A septic system is being made.
- A pit of the correct geometric shape breaks out.
- Formwork is being constructed according to the scheme.
- The concrete mixture is poured.
- Important! When installing, leave holes for the pipes or insert them immediately.
- The first section is done with the bottom. After the walls have dried, the screed is poured.
- In the second section, the bottom is replaced by a drainage filter.
Be sure to have a tight lid for the septic tank to stop bad smell and debris ingress.
Brick septic tank
Now it is installed not so often.
Installation is carried out according to the method of conventional bricklaying.
Important! Half-brick laying is not suitable, as when the soil freezes or the groundwater level rises, it can float or crack, which will break the seal and the structure will become unusable.
The rest of the installation is identical to the concrete septic tank.
Attention! All two-chamber septic tanks are subject to periodic cleaning of sediment.
Nuances of selection and installation
To properly select and install a septic tank, you need to follow a few rules.
Septic tank volume
It is worth making simple calculations on the amount of wastewater from the bath.
Example. A single bath is taken by 6 people. On average, each person uses 50 liters of water
The septic tank must be at least 400 liters. Considering that no one will go to the bath next. If it is designed for several visits in a row, then the volume is tripled.
If the bath is equipped with a font
Then, when choosing the volume of a septic tank, one should take into account the drain of the tank.
Results
Of course, baths are different. For baths with a large area, a pool, a toilet and a shower, it would be more practical to buy a ready-made septic tank, a septic tank or install an autonomous treatment plant.
If you have a bathhouse installed on your site, a septic tank will allow you to provide wastewater treatment. It perfectly replaces the central sewer, is able to process large volumes of liquid.
Does a bath need a septic tank? This question is asked by many owners. country houses. It is definitely necessary for the construction and allows for the disposal of wastewater from the bath. This structure is especially necessary if there is a toilet in the bath, because for sewage water should be carefully processed.
A bath without a septic tank cannot fully function, and if you use a regular one, you will often need to pump out. In some cases, the site already has one treatment plant that acts as a sewer. But the main problem is the possible removal of the bath from the residential building and the need to stretch the drain pipe through the entire territory.
The main functions of the sewer system and septic tank:
- Waste disposal.
- Additional cleaning.
- Complete recycling.
If you decide which septic tank is best for a bath, then you should determine the type of wastewater and the degree of contamination. They usually contain surfactants, soapy substances, particles of dirt and leather.
In the absence of a toilet in the bath, you can use the simplest design from one well. The septic tank is made in the form of an ordinary autonomous one, but it is leaky, gravel and crushed stone are laid at the bottom for filtration. After getting inside, the drains pass through these elements and go into the soil. Provides the required level of cleaning and complete safety.
The main advantages of this solution:
- Simplicity of arrangement, construction time is significantly reduced.
- You can save money on materials.
- The use of a bottom filter eliminates the need for frequent cleaning.
The main disadvantage of such simple designs- Poor cleanliness. Therefore, they can only be used for drains with a low level of pollution. If a toilet is installed in the bath, then you will need to build difficult option from two wells.
Important!It is best to use designs of two containers. They are more versatile and provide a better degree of wastewater treatment.
Location selection
When designing a septic tank for a bath, special attention should be paid to choosing a suitable place for its installation. We recommend that you follow a few simple rules:
- It is necessary to locate the structure at a small distance from the structure in order to facilitate the connection of the sewerage system.
- If there is a well for water intake on the site, then the distance to it should be several tens of meters.
- Care must be taken to install this structure in areas with high level ground water.
- The place must be chosen in such a way that a sewer can drive up to the septic tank for cleaning.
Important!Consider the exit of the sewer pipe from the bath. Between it and the cleaning system does not allow the presence of angles of 120 degrees or more. Otherwise, serious problems will arise when connecting and laying a pipe to remove drains.
Carefully consider the location of this element on the site and choose the most suitable place for installation.
Material selection
When choosing a material and design, you should take into account the location of groundwater, soil features and your financial capabilities. There are several options for performing septic tanks:
- From PVC containers.
- From metal tanks.
- From car tires.
- Their concrete rings.
A septic tank for a bath is best made from concrete rings. These designs are more reliable in operation, they can be installed independently, with the involvement of specialized equipment.
Important!If you make a septic tank yourself, and do not buy ready-made systems, then it is better not to save on materials. Concrete structures will cost more, but they are highly durable.
Pit preparation
Consider how to make a septic tank for a bath of concrete rings. After you have determined a suitable place for installation, you can proceed to the direct work. We recommend that you purchase materials in advance, including measuring their dimensions. The obtained parameters must be used when determining the depth, length and width of the pit.
There are several options for preparing the pit for installation:
- Manual method, using conventional shovels. This solution will save money, but it will take a lot of time and effort. Therefore, several people should be involved at once.
- Development with the help of special equipment is the best option. It will take much less time, will significantly speed up the installation process.
Separately from the bath, a trench is dug for. It will contain a pipe for draining wastewater. The trenches should be deep enough to hide the sewers under the ground.
Installation
To build a septic tank for a bath with your own hands, you will need to call special equipment to install the rings. She will be able to place the concrete goods in the prepared pit and will significantly save your strength in this process.
The first well to which the sewer is connected must be completely sealed. There are two mounting options:
- Installation on a concrete slab. A slab is laid in the base, the area between it and the concrete ring should be carefully sealed.
- The second way is to install the rings, fill concrete mortar inside and wait for it to solidify, it will ensure the tightness of the structure. The height of the concrete pillow at the bottom is 10 centimetres.
The space between the rings should be well lubricated with sealant. It will be able to eliminate the possibility of leakage and contamination of the soil with runoff.
After the construction of the first well, you can proceed to the implementation of the second. It will be equipped with a filter bottom, so the arrangement concrete base not required. It is enough to level the soil and you can perform direct installation. The area between the rings is also lubricated with sealant.
Important!It is best to use high quality sealants from reputable manufacturers. An excellent option would be hygroscopic mastic and liquid glass.
Sand, pebbles, crushed stone are poured into the bottom of the second well, they will be used as a natural filter for wastewater and provide complete cleaning. The thickness of the pillow should be between 10 and 20 centimetres.
- Sewer pipes are supplied from the bath, they can be made of metal or polypropylene.
- In the first well (sump), a hole is punched in the upper part, a pipe is inserted into it to discharge sewage water.
- In the sump and the second well, one hole is made each, they are connected to each other with a pipe.
Important!The junction of pipes with wells must be treated with sealants, they will eliminate the possibility of leaks and ensure the full functioning of the system.
The final stage
At the last stage, it is necessary to install covers to protect the containers from external influences. They are made of concrete, these elements can be purchased from suppliers.
During installation, coat the edges of the upper rings with sealants. They will exclude the evaporation of the contents of the wells, the ingress of rain and melt water inside. A hatch should be provided in the design, through which access to the septic tank is provided, and its further cleaning is carried out.
The hatch is closed with a lid. It is better to use standard cast iron products, they have a fairly high strength and durability. Covers can be made of concrete, reinforced concrete and even wood.
After installing the covers, the pit is filled with the remaining soil. It should be well tamped to exclude the possibility of further destruction. You can sprinkle the area around the cast iron cover with soil or leave it on the surface.
A septic tank for a reinforced concrete bath is distinguished by its reliability and durability, the system can be operated for many years. Its main disadvantage is the high cost of materials. But in this case, the costs are fully justified, and you can save time and money on frequent repairs and cleanings.
Responsibly approach the implementation of the septic tank, carefully work out the design and location, first draw up a small diagram and work plan. If you correctly carry out all the individual steps, then you will not have problems during the further operation of the structure. It will provide complete wastewater treatment and disposal. It is important to carry out timely further maintenance and monitor the condition of the system.
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When building a private bath, land owners are wondering how to make a septic tank for a bath - a technical structure designed for the timely removal of wastewater.
It is especially important to provide it for a bath equipped with sanitary unit, because such effluents require safe disposal, treatment and processing.
Design features of septic tanks for a bath
First of all, the choice of a suitable septic tank design depends on an important parameter - whether there is a bathroom in the bath.
This can be explained by the fact that wastewater in a bath that is not equipped with a sanitary unit has a liquid consistency with a minimum amount of pollution. Then septic tanks for a bath without a bathroom do not require additional installation of a filtering system. The right decision is to build a well from concrete rings without a bottom with a septic gravel and crushed stone cushion as a reliable bottom filter.
If you plan to equip a septic tank for a bath with a toilet, then it is recommended to choose a multi-section filter unit. The first section is airtight and is intended for collecting fecal waste, the remaining sections are for high-quality filtration.
The simplest and affordable option for homemade- a septic tank for a bath made of concrete rings, which has a lot of advantages. These include ease of installation, affordable cost Supplies, no need for constant cleaning and disinfection. The only drawback of the structure is the low level of wastewater treatment.
Home cleaning facilities can be made from available materials:
- PVC containers (barrels, containers) with small filtration holes in the bottom. Such material can be used for surface occurrence of water in moving soils.
- Tanks made of metal without a bottom. They are used for arranging a sump in sandstones with high GWL(groundwater level).
- Rings made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which are suitable for the construction of drinking and technical wells.
- Wheel tires from trucks, as well as eurocubes made of plastic and acrylic. They are used for the construction of septic tanks with a low level of aquifer on sandstones.
The right choice of place for the construction of a septic tank
To organize a septic tank for a bath with your own hands, first you need to decide on its location. When choosing a suitable place, it is important to observe the following rules:
- To simplify the process of removing wastewater, the sump can be built on safe distance 15 meters from residential and commercial buildings.
- If there are water sources on the land plot (a well or a well), the structure must be located no closer than 20 meters from them.
- Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the level of groundwater and the type of soil in order to choose the right building material.
- supply water pipe to the structure should be carried out at an angle of 125 degrees to prevent rapid clogging of the sewer system.
- The location of the sump should be convenient for the access of AC equipment.
If the bath is built on clay or loamy soils, the construction of a septic tank is impossible. Then one should provide alternatives drain systems - a storm drain, a well for drainage or a ditch with a concrete bottom.
With regular operation of a technical facility and infrequent pumping of water drains, it is possible to equip a septic tank for a bath without pumping. It is an ergonomic design consisting of two compartments, which is intended for independent biological wastewater treatment. The chambers are interconnected by a plastic pipeline.
The first chamber is used to process organic waste and filter heavy particles from the water that accumulate at the bottom of the structure. After cleaning, the water enters the second chamber, where it passes through the bottom filter and is discharged into the soil.
When arranging such a system, the bottom of the pit is laid out with a sand and gravel cushion up to 25 cm high, which acts as a drainage base for filtering wastewater.
Septic tank from reinforced concrete rings
Structurally, a septic tank made of rings is similar to a domestic hydraulic structure, the only difference is the shallow depth of the mine. Making a concrete septic tank for a bath with your own hands is quite simple, this will require reinforced concrete rings, plastic pipes, a well cover and working tools. All work is carried out in the following order:
- Preparation of a pit of the required size - depth by 2 rings, diameter - 25 cm more than the diameter of the rings.
- The ring is mounted, the bottom is concreted to a height of up to 15 cm. If the structure is an open structure, the bottom is equipped with a crushed stone filter pad up to 35 cm high.
- The second element is installed on top of the first ring. The rings are connected to each other with special fasteners.
- Install sewer pipes and a protective cover. Using concrete structure first, a hatch is made in it for cleaning the septic tank.
- The connecting joints between the rings are treated with a bitumen-based sealant.
- The pit is covered with soil and rammed.
If it is planned to build a two-chamber septic tank from rings, a structure is arranged near the first well in a similar way with the installation of reinforced concrete rings. In this case, the bottom of the first well must be concreted, and the second - covered with rubble. The joints between the rings in the second well are not sealed. Used as a connector for two cameras plastic pipe, which is installed at a short distance from the bottom of the structure.
Tire construction
Old car cameras can be used to build simple receiver drains.
Installation work is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Preparation of one or two pits up to 200 cm deep each, the diameter must exceed the dimensions of the tires by 20 cm.
- The bottom of the first receiver is concreted to a height of up to 15 cm, the second is covered with a sand-gravel mixture by 35 cm.
- The inner walls of the tires are trimmed to simplify the process of laying the elements. Tires are mounted alternately in height with the formation of a vertical septic tank.
- A pipe with a cross section of up to 110 mm is brought below the level of soil freezing and at a slight slope from the bath to the receiver. When arranging the structure into two compartments, the overflow pipe is installed between the wells under a slope. To do this, holes of the desired diameter are made on the side of the tires. Joints are treated with sealant.
- The distance between the septic tank and the pit is covered with soil, and the finished structure is covered with a lid.
Garden septic tank from a barrel
How to make a septic tank for a bath from an ordinary plastic or metal barrel used on the farm? To do this, you must first prepare the container: in a plastic product, small holes are made in the walls and bottom, in a metal one, the bottom is removed.
Construction work is carried out in the following order:
- Pit preparation right size: in depth along the height of the container, in width 15 cm more.
- Backfilling the bottom with fine gravel by 12 cm, tamping.
- Cutting a side hole in the barrel for the drain pipe (this is done by stepping back 18 cm from the bottom of the tank).
- Installation of the barrel in the pit with additional fixation with metal rods stuck through the tank into the bottom of the structure.
- Backfilling the gap between the pit and the septic tank with rubble and tamping.
- Protective cover fixing.
This type of septic tank requires high-quality cleaning of dirt and debris every 6 months.
Septic tank from ready-made plastic and iron eurocubes
The most durable, practical and expensive design for private septic tanks. For its implementation, ready-made eurocubes made of metal and plastic are used. Cubes come in volumes from 50 to 10 thousand cubic meters.
Installation of products is carried out in the following order:
- The neck of the cube is cut off for the installation of tees. Existing joints are carefully treated with sealants for plastic.
- In the end part of the cube with an upper indent of 25 cm, a hole is made along the diameter of the overflow pipe.
- In the upper part, a hole is made for the ventilation pipe connected to the tee.
- When using a two-section design, the sections are connected by an overflow pipe, for which special holes are made in the side walls. In the first cube, it is located 20 cm below the hole through which the drains enter, in the second - 25 cm below the hole in the first cube.
- A pit is being prepared for two containers.
- Cubes with installed overflow pipes are mounted on the bottom and fixed with metal rods.
- Finished design with outside the walls are insulated with foam sheets and filled with concrete mixture to the upper level of the tank necks.
Self-installation of a septic tank for a private bath is a responsible process that requires a rational approach and the right choice of material.
most accessible and economical options receivers from car tires, plastic or metal barrels. Such materials are lightweight and easy to install. For the arrangement of more serious structures, it is recommended to use concrete rings or PVC cubes.
Local sewerage with its own treatment plant will allow you not to break away from civilization in settlements without basic infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as an object of cleaning, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result, technological subtleties are needed. Is it true?
Anyone wishing to acquire an autonomous sewage system on own site we offer useful information, thoroughly covering all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information provided by us is a guarantee of a long service life and flawless operation of the system.
An interesting article presented to your attention introduces various constructive views homemade septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a wastewater treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated with simplified graphics, photo and video applications.
Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.
The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:
- the ability to minimize costs by purchasing components, as they say, out of order - where it is cheaper, and secondly, using the already available improvised means;
- installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.
Let's say you equip the toilet first. In the future, connect a bathhouse, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the "tie-in" points are prepared in advance - pipe outlets brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a while.
The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow minimal cost organize an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified effluents
Nobody better than the master who built the septic tank, does not know weak spots cleaning system and its capabilities. Although you should not make shortcomings, but only he will take them into account during operation.
It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “sticking out” only the merits. An independent builder will know what can let him down.
Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the site around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor cleaning system throughput.
A septic tank from barrels works on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the septic tank until it is pumped out by sewers
You will learn the subtleties of the construction of a septic tank that works without odor emission and does not require pumping out from our other site.
Varieties of designs and schemes
A home-made septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are connected in series with each other by branch pipes so that the filling of the sections is carried out in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras on different levels in height.
The principle of operation of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the principle of operation. The entrance and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that water begins to flow into the next tank before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.
Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of pollution settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter ones continue their way through the system.
For free flow of sewage to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed at each site, including the sections between sections of the septic tank
In order for the methane formed during the processing of wastewater to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a homemade septic tank.
In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, showers, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a “knee” - so that an unpleasant smell does not poison the existence.
The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of wastewater. The more sections the sewer passes through, the higher the final degree of cleaning.
The most common is a three-section septic tank scheme used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify the contaminated water coming from the bath or kitchen, the use of one or two barrel sections will be enough.
Purified and clarified effluents from the septic tank flow into the soil post-treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through the filtration field
From the last barrel, they arrange an exit to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.
The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, lined with geotextile, on top of which pipes are laid and sand and gravel mixture is covered.
The function of ground aftertreatment of gray wastewater supplied by baths, washing machines, kitchen sinks etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the last barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom is cut out from the tank, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.
If the amount of runoff does not exceed 5–8 m³ / day, then the third section without a bottom, filled with a layer of 1 m of sand and gravel, can be used as a soil post-treatment system. Absorption (filtering) wells are arranged using this method.
As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.
The calculation of the volume of wastewater is based on the rate of wastewater discharge per person in l / day. A single-chamber septic tank is built with a sewage volume of up to 1 m³ / day, a two-chamber septic tank is built for 5 - 8 m³ / day
Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels
Home-made treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:
- from plastic barrels;
- from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);
The metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to fix it from floating up. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.
A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment in the construction of sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness for a tire cleaning station if there is no experience with similar materials.
Usage plastic barrels in the device of a septic tank allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding
A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:
- light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
- corrosion resistance. This moment is important not only in terms of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
- the optimal way of construction, because installation of the system does not require electric welding;
- tightness of tanks, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewer facility;
- manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with a cutting tool.
If necessary, slight cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.
Plastic barrels are the easiest to work, technological source material for the construction of a homemade septic tank
Basic accommodation requirements
In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in the regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - "Building Norms and Rules" - a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is this one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewage networks and treatment facilities.
Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norma.
In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:
- the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
- well, well - 30-50 m;
- lake, pond - 30 m;
- bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
- road - 5 m.
Before installing an autonomous septic tank or its location, it is necessary to discuss with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.
When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.
The greater the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the farther it must be removed from the foundation
But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewerage with systems of soil post-treatment in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.
The lack of ability to pass water will be “telled” by the stagnation of flood waters during the melting of snow and during periods of heavy rainfall. This means that clayey soils predominate in the section, which do not allow water to pass through and into itself.
On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. Make them plastic containers or groups of barrels. Accumulators only accumulate waste masses for pumping out by vacuum trucks, and do not process them.
A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Soils saturated with water will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.
If the section of the site is composed of clay soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of \u200b\u200bconstructing a septic tank will have to be abandoned
Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies effluents by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.
Features and design standards
Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be made "by eye". But making up detailed plan and the development of a project, even in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.
Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and laying the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time endures, then before you start work, part of the necessary, it is quite possible, can be obtained for free.
And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending money comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.
Secondly, the careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as discipline. In addition, a well-drawn to scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expense. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.
As you plan, keep the following in mind:
- even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
- the sections of the septic tank should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that excludes soil washing in case emergency flooding septic tank and the occurrence of leaks;
- the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
- outer line autonomous sewerage must be provided with a manhole for inspection and cleaning.
- for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional manhole should be built.
If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.
To the level of seasonal freezing of soils, the septic tank and the sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it
If it is planned to erect buildings in the future, the operation of which will require the use of water (a bathhouse, a sink, some kind of handicraft), provide for places for “tie-in” of water effluents from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since in waste water there will be no large particles of dirt.
If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum truck, do not make the first chamber too voluminous - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, consider either easy dismantling of the chamber or access to its contents for quick cleaning.
For maintenance, control of work and periodic extraction of sludge, the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must rise above ground level by at least 18 cm.
If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of a storage tank is possible, then the design should be carried out taking into account the provision of unhindered passage of sewage equipment.
Preparation of building materials for work
The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:
- pipes for the highway with a diameter of 110 mm;
- fittings, angles, etc., in the quantity corresponding to your project.
- the barrels themselves, designed for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.
It is advisable to use barrels with sufficiently thick walls so that the joints of the pipes with them are as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness from mechanical stress.
To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes.
Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras at low temperatures. You can use the old village way - put wooden sticks in containers.
At the very least, the ice that expands when it freezes will squeeze the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Also help plastic bottles filled with sand.
But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be superfluous - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.
Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and it will not be possible to cover it with any protective layer - no coating will hold on silicone.
by the most the best option there will be the use of car body sealant - it has good adhesion (ability to stick), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Best Features has a polyurethane sealant, but it is quite expensive;
It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, rebar - for pouring bases for barrels. Sand should not be subject to any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it's not scary, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution.
As reinforcement, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook a reinforcing mesh - it is enough to fasten the bars with wire.
If, during the development of the pit, soil with biological inclusions, lenses and layers of clay soil was extracted, then quarry or river sand will be required to fill the pit with a septic tank installed
It will require crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to backfill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;
The plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not full, it can be "pushed" to the surface ground water. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded studs - something for which you can “anchor” the barrel.
It is appropriate to use commercially available threaded studs - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.
Construction of a pit with a concrete slab
How you decide to make the main pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that, after installing the barrel in place, it is convenient to ram the earth that is poured into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. It is also possible to provide for the thermal insulation of the container - slag, foam, - in general, with what will be more accessible.
Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the excavation, it is necessary to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for a concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the pit with cement. It is not necessary at the same time to make formwork, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and tamp the bottom before that.
If there is any doubt about the strength of the walls of the pit, then they must be strengthened with a board before pouring. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - with the alignment of the horizon. Do not forget about the embedded parts for anchoring barrels!
Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring one just for this job (unless there are plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.
Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the desired consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before directly filling the foundation, moisten the compacting backfill with water.
In order to anchor the lung plastic septic tank metal brackets must be laid in the poured concrete slab
To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve a better filling of the future site with a solution.
To prevent the grout from cracking as it dries, especially in hot weather, cover the grouted area with a thick cloth after the cement has set and pour water over it. For such a purpose better fit tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric - it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.
Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability.
All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the processing of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.
Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80-100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, triangular scarves for rigidity can also be installed on the same sealant, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape, etc. - so that they do not "slide".
A schematic diagram of preparing a pit and anchoring a factory-made septic tank can be used in a do-it-yourself sewer facility (+)
After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final backfilling of trenches and pits. Compact the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.
In those places where it is possible that equipment will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring at least from boards.
Assembly and connection of the structure
So, all materials are ready. The next step is to cut holes in the barrels for pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in size - let the pipes be inserted with effort, cut off the excess if necessary.
Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise, when backfilling and tamping trenches and pits, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the means at hand - wire, cutting boards, bricks, - whatever you like.
Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the details, to place everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with stakes and twine, you can start digging.
Visual step by step guide
The process of building a septic tank with overflow from used barrels will present a visual step-by-step instruction:
Image Gallery
Before the construction of a home-made septic tank, a pit is being developed, the dimensions of which will ensure convenience in the performance of work
In the lids of both barrels, planned for the installation of a septic tank with an absorbing well, we cut a hole for the flange of the sewer pipe
We apply flanges to the holes cut in the barrels. Refine cuts if necessary.
We are still finalizing the barrel intended for the device of the absorbing well - in its upper part we cut out two holes for the introduction of drainage pipes
In the upper barrel, which will be used as a receiving chamber, we cut out only one hole. It should be directly opposite the one cut into the lid.
We install the first barrel on the compacted and leveled bottom of the pit. We connect the flange to the hole cut in the cover
To install a second barrel in front of the already installed first swarm, a recess
We fill the recess with gravel, which will perform the function of ground purification of the clarified water that has come out of the septic tank
Step 1: Development of a pit for the installation of barrels
Step 2: Making Holes in the Barrels
Step 3: Fitting the Flange to the Drum Holes
Step 4: Cutting Holes in the Bottom Barrel
Step 5: Side hole in the top barrel
Step 6: Installing the receiving chamber in the pit
Step 7: Designing a recess for the second barrel
Do-it-yourself septic tank for a bath without pumping out
Nowadays, there is a bathhouse in the country house or in the backyard. This is a miracle of healing and beneficial for the body, which has come down to us from time immemorial and is the legacy of our ancestors. No other bathhouse or sauna can be compared with the Russian bathhouse.
The Russian bath has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages not in the bath itself, of course, but in its operation, more precisely in the use of sewage. Often, in the old samples of the buildings of the baths, there was simply no sewage system and the water went into the cracks between the boards in the floor, and then into the soil.
Of course, the whole thing then exuded moisture and dampness for a long time. Not infrequently, the owners of the baths had to dismantle the floor in the steam room and subsequently dry the boards, or simply keep the door open until the next time, so that it ventilated and dried out. In the bath without high humidity, and even if dampness comes from under the floor, then the structure will quickly become unusable.
Also, during the operation of baths without sewage, the owners, for example, change every 10 years lower crown log house. Some attendants go to the trick and make the lower crown out of hard rock wood such as oak.
In order for the bathhouse to serve the owners for a long time, it is necessary to make a sewerage system. There is a huge selection these days. sewer systems, septic tanks of all designs and sizes for houses and baths. But these septic tanks sometimes cost a lot of money and can not afford simple summer resident. What to do common man And how to protect the bath from dampness and moisture? As always, you need to look for a solution and think with your head. So the author pored over his brains and came to the decision to make a sewer with my own hands and save family budget money.
He took the principle of operation of a conventional septic tank as an idea. The septic tank is arranged as follows - two tanks are interconnected at the top, when the first tank is filled, it begins to flow into another tank that performs the function of drainage. The author took information and drawings from the Internet, thought out and completed it for himself. And so, what does the author need to fulfill his idea?
Materials: two plastic barrels, cement mortar, boards, gravel, polystyrene, sewer pipes.
Tools: shovel, hammer, axe, hacksaw.
And so, first of all, the author considered schemes for further construction.
Then he dug a hole for a homemade septic tank, brought a sewer pipe out of the bath and connected it to the tank. I made a lid on top.
In the upper part, the author made such a formwork. (fig 5)
Next, the author made a cover for his sewer (Fig. 7, 8)
He also foresaw the onset of winter cold weather by making such a foam insulation. (fig 9)
That's all and covered with a lid on top.
The septic tank for the country bath is ready, now the author's bath will stand for many years and will delight the family and guests with its raspberry heat. 
