How to make drainage in the basement of the house - draining the basement. We make drainage in the basement of the house: internal and external The device of the drainage system in the basement of the house

When building a house, you need to take care of arranging the drainage of the basement.

In some cases, this point can be missed, but it should be mandatory if:

Drainage well in basement

the land plot is located at the foot of the slope, along which rain or melt water constantly flows;
cases of flooding after snow melt or heavy rain are known;
the soil on which the house is located is loamy or clay, therefore, it prevents the penetration of water into the soil and its uniform distribution over the site.

Here, the drainage of the basement must be carried out without fail, otherwise it cannot be avoided by flooding.

What to do if there is groundwater in the basement

If you notice that water often accumulates in the basement of the house, the problem can be solved in several ways:

The first condition must be met.

But, waterproofing alone will not completely eliminate the re-flooding of the basement.

That is why it is necessary to additionally make internal or external drainage. Let's consider this question further.

The device of internal and external drainage in the basement

How is internal drainage done in the basement

Initially, it is worth noting that the internal drainage in the basement collects water that has already penetrated here, so it will not protect the room well from mold and fungus.

It should also be noted that when arranging such a system, the floor will have to be raised, sacrificing free space.

Disposal of water outside the building can also be accompanied by certain difficulties.

But, if you still decide to make internal drainage in the basement of the house, consider step by step instructions to its implementation.

Basement internal drainage

Before starting work, prepare the following tools and materials:

Now you can start to do the drainage of the basement with your own hands.

You will need to do the following work:

This way of arranging drainage in the basement will prevent its flooding. But, for more effective protection rooms from water should still be equipped with external drainage.

How is external basement drainage done?

External drainage in a garage or basement is considered more efficient.

For its arrangement, you will need all the same materials as in the previous case, in addition, you will only need manholes.

The sequence of work looks like this:

External basement drainage

dismantle the foundation formwork, impregnate with a waterproofing solution and paste over with slab insulation;
dig a ditch around the perimeter of the building. Its depth should be about 50-70 cm from the level of the base;
Ditch along the perimeter of the building
dig a hole for a drainage well at a distance of 10-15 meters;
lay a layer of geotextile at the bottom of the trench for drainage pipes - so that its edges can cover the drainage layer;
Geotextile layer at the bottom of the ditch and rubble
a layer of crushed stone of 10 cm is poured onto the geotextile, with its help a slope is made - 1-2 cm per meter. The slope is arranged in the direction of the drainage well;
lay drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm in trenches. Connect the corners of the products with special fittings;
on the corner connections pipes to make manholes. Make sure that the wells are located no more than at a distance of 20 meters from each other;
This is what a viewing well looks like
check the strength of all connections;
pour a layer of rubble on top;
cover the drainage with the free edges of the geotextile. It is advisable to connect them with a strong synthetic twine that is resistant to decay;
fill the trench with sand or gravel from above, then with soil;
Next, you need to dig a trench for main pipe, which will connect the system to the drainage well. This trench should be 20-50 cm deeper than the ring trench, this will help to make the necessary slope;
Trench for main pipe
lay a layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the trench, level it, taking into account the required slope indicators;
lay a drainage pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, wrapped with geofabric;
pour a layer of sand and soil on top.

We fall asleep a drainage ditch

The work on the arrangement of external drainage can be considered completed. Now you can not be afraid of flooding the basement or cellar.

How to dry out a garage cellar

If water accumulates in the garage cellar, then the problem can be solved very simply.

To do this, you don’t even have to drain the cellar in the garage, you can use a simpler and more effective method.

To do this, do the following:

This method is suitable for an unimproved basement, when drainage in the garage It is impractical to perform due to the higher cost of materials and work. But submersible pump will perfectly cope with its task, it will automatically turn on and off when the permissible position of the float is violated.

External garage drain

Of course, if the garage is well-maintained, equipped with valuable equipment, then it is best to do the drainage in the garage with your own hands, choosing one of the above schemes.

Better to do external option drainage or in combination with internal.

So water will not flow into the room, all things will remain safe and sound. The garage will always remain dry.

Video

To combat floods in the basement of your own home, two main methods can be used - a major overhaul and restoration of the waterproofing of the walls of the foundation and basement, or to equip drainage in the basement of the house. The complex use of both methods will certainly help to completely get rid of water, but only if drainage is truly effective.

How to build a basement drainage system

Drainage inside the basement is based on the simple principle of collecting liquid that enters the room, regardless of its origin, whether it is groundwater, high water, melt or rain, anyway, the flow will drain to the lowest point of the basement, from where it is enough to simply remove it with a natural drain or pump.

Structurally, drainage is performed according to three main schemes:

Bottom drainage is laid in the basement at the construction stage. The device of such a drainage system is no different from conventional drainage used to protect the foundation;
Water drainage system in the form of a well or pit. The bulk of the water is collected in containers and removed using a drainage pump;
Tray drainage is built in the likeness of surface drainage and a system of gutters for collecting rainwater.

Important! The efficiency of each of the systems depends primarily on the elevation difference and the terrain in which the basement is located. It is the terrain factor that must be taken into account first of all when choosing a scheme to solve the problem of how to make drainage in the basement.

This is primarily due to the desire to make drainage in the basement with one's own hands in the form of self-drainage of water, when, with a slight slope, most of the water flow flows through the laid pipes into a receiving well or into a ravine. It is clear that such a drainage scheme will not work if the basement and the house are located at the lowest point in the terrain.

How to make simple and effective drainage in the basement of the house

The easiest way to make a drainage and drainage system is at the stage of building a house and a basement. If at the time of the construction of the building there was no water in the foundation pit, and measurements of the groundwater level show the presence of aquifers at a level of 5-7 m, this can mislead future home owners. For the most part, the owners decide to drain the foundation, but neglect the arrangement of drainage pipes for the basement or cellar.

In addition to groundwater, there is the so-called capillary moisture. If the aquifer is at a depth of 5 m, and there are sand deposits between the foundation and the water, then after the construction of the house, under the weight of the building box, the water will rise through the capillaries by at least three to four meters, and the basement will be in the water.

Classic drainage option

Even if there is no water in close proximity to the basement, it is still better to make drainage for the basement, especially since its installation will not take much time and resources. If clay castles around the foundation they will not provide proper waterproofing, or groundwater will rise, drainage made just in case will help preserve the basement structure and even parts of the foundation.

The drainage device is reduced to the following activities:

Before pouring a concrete screed, a thick layer, at least 10-15 cm, of granite screenings with sand is poured to the bottom of the cellar or basement, and a geotextile sheet is laid;
Further, gravel is poured over textiles with a second layer of 5-7 cm, two or three perforated plastic pipes are laid in parallel with a horizontal slope of at least 5-7 ° and covered with an additional layer of screenings, after which they are covered with a waterproofing film;
The laid drainage pipes are connected to the outflow line leading to the collection well. A concrete screed with a reinforcing frame made of fiberglass reinforcement is made over the waterproofing film.

The prefabricated well is connected to the common drainage system of the foundation. Such a system works great if you can make a prefabricated well at least a meter deeper than the level of the basement. Usually, the basement drainage system is tried to be made flush with the foundation in order to avoid the need to install bypass grates and valves. Usually, prefabricated drainage wells are taken out at a distance from the construction of the house and the basement, if the terrain or the nature of the development of the site does not allow this, you have to look for a way to make drainage in the basement of the house with forced removal of water.

How to make simple drainage with forced water removal

Often, it is decided to make a drainage system in the basement after the fact, when the room is regularly and constantly flooded with water. The arrival of water in the basement can range from several tens of liters to several cubic meters. It is clear that it is simply unrealistic to remove such a volume of water with the help of even the most perfect ventilation, therefore it is easier and more reliable to make drainage in the form of a pit or a well.

Initially, you will need to choose the lowest area in the basement, it is not difficult to do this, a puddle is gathering in this place, or to measure the depth level in a flooded basement. First of all, you will need to make the basement free of water, pump it dry with a drainage pump.

It is advisable to make a pit in the center of the basement, away from the walls. On the marked area, you will need to knock out a pit with a diameter of 50-60 cm, to a depth of at least 60-70 cm, with a crowbar or a puncher. the pit is deep enough.

Groundwater enters the pit with debris and clay particles, after a week or two the pit will turn into a swamp and clog the pump inlets. To strengthen the walls and reduce the risk of stopping the drainage, you must do the following - install a barrel or container with a volume of 40-50 liters in the pit and use a drainage pump designed for dirty water to remove moisture.

Advice! If the water protruding on the walls of the basement is of capillary origin, the pit can be made deeper, in the form of a well at a level of 2-3 m. In this case, an asbestos-cement pipe will have to be installed in the well and the bottom made concrete.

No matter how well the pump works, water will still be present on the walls and floor in the form of a thin film. Therefore, to get rid of fumes and wet atmosphere, you must do the following:

AT concrete floor several longitudinal channels are ditched, from the highest point towards the pit with the pump. The same inclined channels can be made on the surface of the walls;
Sheathe floor and walls wooden gratings from larch, with a gap of 10-15 mm. This is enough for the water to flow in a thin film through the channels on the floor and walls. This will remove some of the moisture. supply and exhaust ventilation.

Such a scheme will make the atmosphere less humid, and there will be no need to splash through puddles in rubber boots.

Sucker Punch

Often, owners of flooded basements face a catastrophic problem when the basement floods with groundwater in one gulp, up to front door, during few hours. As a rule, such phenomena are seasonal in nature; it is rather difficult to predict when and how flooding will occur. In addition to flooding, groundwater can seriously damage the joints between wall and floor slabs, and each time the flooding rate will only increase.

Therefore, many, at their own peril and risk, try to make a drain pipe in the concrete floor to relieve water pressure. For this, the floor is punched, an inch is installed in the hole. steel pipe, which is simply brought downstream or connected to a surface well pump.

If the crushed stone cushion along the contour is made correctly, such drainage can reduce the pressure on the floor and walls by an order of magnitude.

Conclusion

These basement drainage systems are quite easy to do by yourself, their effectiveness has been proven in practice, and they have been used to drain basements for decades. But even the most efficient internal drainage loses capacity over time due to clogging and silting of pipes and collection tanks. Therefore, periodically it is necessary to open the system in order to clean and prevent the well and pump. In this case, the system will work for a long time.

Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a conventional floor.

In the basement, only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located - a laundry room, a gym, a sauna, a boiler room, a workshop, a pantry, etc. All these rooms with better comfort and convenience would be placed on an ordinary floor or attic.

In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The arrangement of a basement in such a house was really beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement rooms.

Application in modern low-rise construction of lightweight structures and makes the device in the basement house unprofitable.

Nevertheless, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on strip foundation deep laying. To comfortably use the premises in the basement, the basement must be protected from ground moisture.

How to protect the basement or basement from water and dampness

present constantly. The level of groundwater, the amount of perched water, soil moisture on the site change according to the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.

If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to divert water flowing down the slope from the house. Water flows down the slope both along the surface and underground horizons.

To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:

Annular drainage around the house, at the level of the sole of the foundation, which intercepts and diverts from the walls of the basement most of the water tending to flood the basement.
Waterproofing of basement walls and floors, designed mainly to protect against capillary soil moisture.

Only basement waterproofing, without a drainage device, leads to the fact that water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. Damp basement - money down the drain.

If you decide to make a basement or basement in the house, then wall drainage is recommended to be done, you will not regret.

Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the foundation. Its cost is minimal., compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.

If you want to take a chance, save on a drainage device and abandon its device, then conduct a thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring Ask your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement heats up.

Lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.

Design wall drainage adapted solely to protect the basement or basement from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the site or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.

The device of wall drainage around the basement, as a rule, is mandatory:

With a constant or seasonal rise in the groundwater level above the base of the foundation.
If perched water appears on the site in the spring.

For a house located on a slope, from the side of the water running up the slope.
If the site has a waterproof layer of soil.

The last condition is caused by this. The soil cushion of the foundation and the sinuses of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil to reduce the forces of frost heaving. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable backfill of the foundation and accumulate there.

Where to send water from the roof

Water flowing from the roof through the downpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.

You can find a description of the device of the drainage system, which directs water from the roof into the wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they also serve to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.

Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.

It is best to carry out a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from the sites on the site.

Wall drainage around the foundation of the house in the context

(click on picture to enlarge)

Scheme of the ring wall drainage of the basement of the house

Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the walls of the foundation and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners, the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, collection well.

Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:

Used on the site for household needs and watering plantings.
Drop on terrain outside the site.
Filter into the underlying soil layers.
Go to the central sewer of the village.

The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the owner of the house.

In order to discharge drainage water into the central sewerage of the village, according to the rules, permission from the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for receiving and transporting wastewater are required.

In drainage wells, soil particles settle, settle to the bottom and accumulate carried by water in drains. In addition, through the wells control the correct operation drainage system and periodically, as necessary, wash the drain area with a stream of water from the deposits accumulated there.

Drainage wells are installed at the corners of the route, when the slope or difference in height changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at the corners of the turn if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is not more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.

Drain pipe slope

The length of the drain section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.

The angle of inclination is selected so that at the lower mark of the drainage ring around the house, the lower edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel bed) above the base of the foundation. At the upper mark of the ring, the bottom of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below floor level in the basement.

It is not allowed to deepen wall drainage (including gravel bedding) into the sand cushion of the foundation, not to reduce bearing capacity pillows and foundation.

To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is required to increase the distance between the sole of the foundation and the level of the floor in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This increases the cost of building a foundation.

In this case it can be beneficial to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the lower mark of the drains in height may be lower than the base of the foundation.

Remote drainage can also be beneficial to protect an already built house with a basement.

Ring wall drainage device

How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.

Geotextile

Geotextile is a synthetic fabric specially designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. In the design of the drainage, it prevents silting of the filter bed, drainage plates and pipes with soil particles.

Filtering, draining layer on the foundation wall

On the foundation wall drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymeric material intercept water that seeps to the foundation wall. Through channels in slabs or mats, water descends to the gravel and then enters the drainage pipes.

In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

The drainage slab is separated from the soil with a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.

Drainage slabs can be easily made by hand. Plates are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), Slabs of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as a basement wall insulation. Plates with a thickness of at least 100 mm. lay out dry with dressing along the basement wall and cover with a geotextile sheet.

For insulation of basement walls, instead of drainage boards on the waterproofing of the foundation, insulation boards are spot-glued - extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm A profiled plastic membrane and geotextiles are fixed on top of the insulation boards.

On sale are membranes with a geotextile sheet already attached to their surface. Through the channels of the membrane, the water that has seeped through the geotextile flows down to the gravel sprinkling of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from soil damage.

Drainage pipes

On sale at construction market there are drainage corrugated plastic perforated pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface. Outside, the pipes are covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.

For wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.

Pipes are joined together with the help of special couplings. At the angles of rotation, it is recommended to join the pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.

You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be below the level of the drainage pipes by 200-500 mm.

Every two to three years, the wells are cleaned and the drainage pipes are washed with a jet of water.

Prefabricated storage well

The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a collection well. A well is a reservoir where some amount of drainage water accumulates. From the reservoir, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and further to the relief outside the site.

The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough, so that the frequency of pumping water is not burdensome for the owners.

If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump equipped with a float switch is installed in the well and electricity is supplied.

In the latter case, for the device of a collection well of small volume it is convenient to use the same design as for the drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage one.

It is necessary to follow that the water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.

Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground tank, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct the water of the surface drain from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.

The device of the storage tank, similar to the design of a septic tank autonomous sewerage. For example, such a well-shaped tank, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.

Water from the roof and from the surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage will not cope with the diversion lots of water during a rainstorm and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement.Drainage pipes and wells and drainage systems must be isolated from each other.

If on site low groundwater level, and the bottom layer of soil on the site is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable layer of soil. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is in a permeable soil layer.

Frost protection of the drainage system

Drainage system - drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter should be in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to keep water away from the foundation.

The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the estimated depth will be 0.7 m. This development is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.

In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying under the blind area of the building a slab of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm.

Since the foundation of the house is below ground level, the basement is often flooded. ground water and precipitation. The room becomes unsuitable for storing property and food stocks. Moreover, large volumes of moisture in the soil create pressure on the foundation walls. Water can violate the integrity of the structure, making its way into the room through the joints of walls and floors and other, even the smallest cracks. Protect the premises from negative impact environment waterproofing and properly made basement drainage will help.

When is drainage needed?

To reduce the cost of construction, the owners refuse to do drainage, preferring waterproofing.

If the soil on the site is clayey, then moisture will linger in it for a long time.

Savings are justified if:

Groundwater is below the foundation level.
The house stands on sandy soils that pass moisture well.
Nearby there are no swamps or reservoirs that overflow their banks in spring.

However, basement drainage is necessary when development is carried out in a risk area. You need to pay attention to the following signs of excess water in the soil:

The site is sloping or located at the foot of the slope, along which precipitation flows.
There were cases of flooding of the area during the melting of snow and seasonal rains.
The soil around the foundation contains clay or loam, which prevents the distribution of moisture.

Geodetic expertise will help determine the type of soil and the need for basement drainage.

The device of systems of water disposal

The drainage of a private house is a closed system of perforated pipes connected by manholes to control patency. Pipes are laid in the ground at an angle towards a large cistern or sewer. Such a device allows you to concentrate moisture and remove it away from the foundation.

Scheme of the device of the water drainage system from the foundation.

The main tank is periodically drained with a pump. The collected water is used for household needs or taken out of the site.

Modern drainage pipes and cisterns are made from polymer materials. They are easy to transport and install, even if the owner equips the site with his own hands. plastic pipes produced in various lengths and diameters. Materials are selected depending on the type of soil and the amount of moisture that needs to be removed throughout the year.

The perforated pipes that make up the drainage can become clogged with silt and soil particles. To increase the life of the system, the pipes are sprinkled with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextiles. Such a filter traps large particles and directs water to the drainage holes. At the request of the owner of the house, more expensive materials, such as coconut fiber, can be used.

Types of drainage systems

Usually, basement drainage is done at the construction stage. Pipes are laid along the outer perimeter of the house at the level of its sole. When the drainage is ready and tested, the ditch is backfilled with a mixture of earth, sand and gravel. Such a system intercepts most of the water before it seeps through the foundation and into the basement. Additional sealing of walls and floor protects the room from capillary moisture.

External annular drainage complies building codes and is the traditional solution.

In combination with sealing the foundation, external drainage prevents the formation of dampness in the basement. No need to spend money on repairs and hastily decide how to divert excess water in case of flooding.
External drainage can be installed with your own hands, without the involvement of hired workers.
An annular drainage system is recommended to be done simultaneously with laying the foundation. When the area around the house is already equipped, many do not want to start large-scale construction works, because you have to destroy paths, gardens and flower beds.

In this case, make the internal drainage of the basement. This technology has its drawbacks, but can be used when drainage with outside foundation is difficult.

Internal drainage collects water that has already entered the room. Such a system protects the walls of the house from mold worse.
To lay pipes in the floor, you need to dig a trench with a jackhammer and donate by making a flooring 30–40 cm high.
It can be difficult to drain water outside the premises.

It is important to remember that any drainage system should not disturb the sand cushion of the foundation. Sand collects excess water and prevents soil heaving when moisture freezes and expands.

Arrangement of external drainage around the foundation

The ring drainage around the house has a closed system. It is laid so that the main reservoir is the lowest point, and the water flows into it at an angle. Prefabricated wells or plastic tanks are used as a reservoir.

The device of an external ring drainage around the house.

To equip the drainage system with your own hands you will need:

perforated pipes 100 – 150 mm in diameter;
manholes at the corners of the drainage (you can use a wide pipe with a diameter of 250-500 mm);
corner fittings;
a tee for connecting the drainage into a ring and draining water into the main tank;
geotextile roll;
sand;
crushed stone;
gravel.

When the foundation formwork is dismantled, drainage pipes can be laid.

A trench 40 cm wide and a depth just below the level of the sole of the house is digging along. The trench must be drained of groundwater and the bottom leveled.
After that, the foundation walls are covered with bitumen for additional waterproofing and glued with insulation.
Geotextiles are placed at the bottom of the drainage trench with a margin. The free edge of the material must remain wide to wrap around the backfill pipe.
10 cm of crushed stone is poured over the geotextile. Since the pipes must lie under a slope, a height difference of 1–2 cm per linear meter is created with the help of crushed stone.
Perforated pipes with a diameter of 100 – 110 mm are used for drainage. The corners are connected with fittings. Every 20 meters of the system, you can make a manhole.
When the drainage is mounted and tested, crushed stone is again poured on top and covered with the edge of the geotextile.
The trench is covered with a mixture of soil, gravel and sand.

At the same time, a line is being dug for a pipe that will connect the drainage system and the main tank.

The main trench is deepened 20–50 cm below the drainage system so that the water drains at an angle.
A well for collecting water is made at a distance of 10–15 meters from the basement walls. It is placed 50-60 cm deeper than the drainage pipes (that is, below the level of the base of the foundation).
The main trench is also covered with rubble and a height difference is made towards the well, adding sand and gravel.
Use a drainage pipe with a diameter of 150 mm.
After completion of work, the main trench is covered with sand.

Ditch filled with rubble for laying pipes.

The main well should be drained regularly and the water level should be below the level of the drainage pipes. To simplify the task, the owner of the site can install an automatic pump in the well.

Internal drainage in the basement

Before installing drainage inside the basement, the room must be drained and the walls covered with a waterproofing compound. Otherwise, the principle of laying pipes is very similar to that used outside the house.

The device of internal drainage in the basement floor.

First, a layer of earth is removed to the base of the foundation. Concrete trenches are made with a jackhammer.
Drainage pipes and manholes are mounted around the perimeter of the room.
Pipes are covered with rubble or gravel.
A concrete screed is being made.
Waterproofing and a new floor are put on top.
The water is collected in a cistern and discharged to the outside by means of a pump.
If geotechnics allows, drain excess moisture into a sand cushion under the foundation.

Internal drainage can be combined with external. This method is effective when the groundwater in the area rises and floods the basement, bypassing the ring drainage.

To lay the drainage system, you can use the services of specialists or do the work yourself, which will be much cheaper. In the second case, the cost of drainage will be equal to the cost of the building materials involved.

If you have a cellar, it is important to control whether it can withstand the onslaught of groundwater. It happens that with the melting of snow the cellar floods. Needless to say, what consequences it threatens. After all, for sure those who have a cellar do not leave it empty. Here, preparations for the winter, and seeds, and all sorts of necessary things are stored.

Such, for example, as power tools (for lack of a utility room in the house). It may turn out that you have to throw them away. It's unlikely to be repairable.

Some solve the problem of flooding in the following way. They dig a hole in the floor of the cellar, concrete a large metal barrel, lower the drainage pump equipped with a float switch. This design works like this. As the container fills up, the water is pumped out.

As you can see, it is not at all difficult to do this yourself. Yes, and does not require special investments. From the experience of those who have been using it for a long time, we can say that reliability is also on highest level. True, many recommend taking another drainage pump above the first. You will also need a UPS.

In general, think about how the cellar is not flooded, preferably even at the stage of building a house. It would be nice to study the structure of the soil. To do this, you can use a homemade garden drill. So, the story of one person can be useful. On his site at a depth of almost six meters there is only sand, with layers of clay. This is very important information that can help both in building a house and in arranging a basement. Well, in general, this plays a significant role in solving the issue of flooding.

If you decide to place the cellar only under part of the house, drilling wells from the outside of the wall will not work. There is another option - to do this around the perimeter of the house. But this is quite a laborious task. But the effect is excellent: the foundation will always be dry. It is better to play it safe, although the house is on the sand.

Directly in the cellar, you can arrange a drained raised floor and not bother and not spend a lot of money on mixtures, pastes and coatings, but let water pass through the cellar deep into the continental sands.

All this must be done strictly according to a specific plan.

Make holes in the floor of the cellar, and drill wells through them. A manual earthen drill is well suited for this. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the underground room. It turns out that up to the sand - about two meters. Make sure that the height of the cellar ceiling allows the use of a drill.

Usually the floor in the cellar is made of concrete. You can put gravel on it. Make a small layer, no more than eight centimeters. Lay waterproofing material on top. You can take a PVC film.

It is important that the film does not rub against the rubble when you walk through the cellar. For this purpose, it is important to lay walkways from wooden boards.

you can take a piss concrete screed. But still remember that this is not a basement. You do not go into the cellar so often and not for long, so you can do without frills.

By the way, purely theoretically, under such conditions, there is no need to accumulate water in a barrel, so you can break through the bottom and drill several wells.

For the arrangement of drainage wells, you can use plastic pipes. They must have holes. Above the pipes themselves, you need to lay a fine mesh. This is necessary so that the pebbles do not fall into the pipe.

After the performed manipulations, water, entering the basement through some small hole, will flow along the floor under the film, and then directly into the well for drainage.

The drain pump can be left in the barrel, it won't hurt.

It is very important to see in practice how the system will work. BUT best time- the end of winter, spring, that is, the period when the snow begins to melt.

If everything is done according to the scheme above, then even after a very snowy winter and a “swampy” spring, your cellar will always be dry.

If you left the pump in the barrel, you can be sure that it is unlikely to work at all. The barrel will be almost always dry. This is all because the water that will enter the cellar will be intercepted and will fall into the wells, and from them deeper and deeper. The underground room will no longer be damp and the ceiling will be completely condensate-free. You will be convinced of this. Being in the cellar will be much more comfortable than before. Of course, no one says that it will be possible to move there to live, but in general, you will understand.

If before you took care of the drainage system, small puddles could remain on the floor that could not dry out almost all summer, but now the situation will change dramatically. Of course, puddles also accumulate because the floor cannot boast of perfect smoothness, but still. Now, with the new drainage system, there may be puddles, but you will not see them, as gravel reliably hides them. And they, if they evaporate, do not form condensate on the ceiling, since the PVC film blocks all this. After all, the goal was different - so that in the room where you store your canned food, vegetables, tools, old, but such necessary things, it was always dry.

Now you won’t need a barrel with a pump, and every spring you worry if it’s not flooded, you won’t have to. And all this is done very simply, without special costs. True, it will take some time to devote to this, to work meticulously in order to avoid mistakes. But the result will reward you for your efforts.

And the last. Of course, you can work out the cellar drainage system when the house is already built. But it is better to do this at the construction stage.