Do-it-yourself cesspool without regular pumping of household wastewater. Options for simple cesspools for country houses DIY cesspool

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use drain hole. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than a conventional latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– additional equipment – to simplify the process you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the level groundwater, it does not need to be buried completely in the ground, but the above-ground part is insulated to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.

The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. On clay soil a sand and gravel cushion is made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.

All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.

A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.

Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.

Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.

A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

Or the owner country house thinking about the need for a cesspool on local area. Expensive - you say? Not at all, and today you will see it. The option for installing a cesspool proposed below is extremely easy to implement and does not require you to have special construction skills or costs.

Interested? Of course! Now let’s take a closer look at what you can use to make and install a cesspool in your dacha.
We bring to your attention a cesspool made from tires.

What are its advantages?
The main thing is, of course, its low cost. No need to buy expensive building materials, be it brick or concrete rings. You just need to find a couple of dozen tires. And even if you don’t have that many tires, don’t worry, because you can always buy them for more than affordable price or even receive it as a gift. Drive through several auto repair shops in your city and make sure these words are true. Another advantage of course is that such a cesspool is very easy to install, which is very often a decisive argument in favor of a particular type of building material.

However, this type of cesspool also has several disadvantages.
The most important of them is a short service life. As a rule, the service life of such pits is ten to fifteen years, after which the pit becomes deformed and collapses. Another disadvantage is the difficulty of dismantling and repairing it.

So, after weighing all the pros and cons, you decided that there should be a cesspool of tires! Where to start?
First, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the general schematic structure of the pit and the features of its installation.

Then you should decide on the location on the site, the size and depth of your future hole. Think about how often you will visit your dacha - once every two to three weeks on weekends or arriving there every other day. Typically, to create a hole with optimal sizes Ten to fifteen tires will be enough.

The next step is to dig a hole. To do this, measure the diameter of your existing tire and mark this diameter on the ground. It should be remembered that the hole should be dug with a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the tires, so that in the future there will be no difficulties with installing them in the hole.

After digging a hole required sizes and volume, a drainage well should be made in it. To do this, you need to drill a hole in the center of the hole with a drill and insert a drainage pipe with holes on the sides into the resulting hole. This is necessary so that wastewater does not stagnate in your pit and passes through the water-resistant layers of the earth. Important: the top of the drainage pipe and the side holes on its surface should be protected with a special mesh so that they do not become clogged with large particles of debris and waste.

We fill the bottom of the cesspool with crushed stone, creating a kind of foundation about ten centimeters thick. Then we begin laying tires on the resulting “cushion” of crushed stone. Please note that to ensure unimpeded drainage of water and debris, it is recommended to cut off the inner rim of each tire. This step will also prevent water from stagnating inside the tire and ensure longer operation of the cesspool.

After installing the tires, we install an inlet pipe for drains and water. To do this, use an electric jigsaw to cut out a hole on the side surface of one of the upper tires corresponding to the diameter of the inlet pipe, then insert the pipe into the resulting hole and secure it. Remember that to facilitate the flow of water through the pipe, it should be placed with a slight slope.

Important feature: tires must be laid in such a way that the last of them is above ground level. We fill the space between the tires and the walls of the dug hole with earth, not forgetting to first seal the joints between the tires with sealant. To ventilate our cesspool, we install a ventilation pipe at the top of the pit, the height of which is about sixty to seventy centimeters above the ground.
Cover the pit with a lid or hatch. That's all - our cesspool is ready.

Such a cesspool, built with your own hands, is very unpretentious in operation, will serve you for several decades, and will add a lot of comfort to your life in the country.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible connections are also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard to reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity Aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
Stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. Distinguish the following types accessories for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high groundwater table;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for absorption;
intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxtail, Langsdorff's reed;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, china;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

at a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m they can grow on raised beds vegetables and annual flowers;
water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture– from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Name accommodation at the dacha or in country house convenient and comfortable only if there is a properly equipped sewage system on the site. Modern market building materials makes it possible to install a waste tank of any design, providing a choice of several options for solving the problem. Of course, factory sewer storage tanks and kits for their manufacture will require additional financial investments, but an inexpensive, efficient system can be made with your own hands. Various materials are suitable for this, including those left over from the construction of the house. The decision to tackle the issue yourself will bring another bonus - by choosing the design of a septic tank or cesspool without pumping out wastewater, you can also save money during the operation of the structure. Let's take a closer look at the process of building two simple, but reliable and workable structures.

Design, advantages and disadvantages of cesspools

The cost of factory treatment facilities is still quite high. A good alternative to such structures are homemade septic tanks and cesspools.

cesspool is the most in a simple way arrangement of local sewage systems, due to which this type of sewage storage tanks has become most widespread in suburban areas. Making this type of waste tank is quite simple. To do this, at a depth below the freezing level of the soil, a container is installed or built, to which a sewer line is drawn from all drain points located in the house. After the pit is filled with sewage, it is pumped out and removed from the site using sewage trucks. For this purpose, the storage tank design provides a hatch, which is also used to monitor the level. waste water.

Depending on the design, all cesspools are divided into two types:

storage structures without a bottom;
sealed waste containers.

The first are a filtration type design. Once in the cesspool, wastewater is absorbed into the soil and, with the help of microorganisms, is processed into water and simple organic compounds. The coarse fraction settles at the bottom of the reservoir, where it is also exposed to bacteria, turning into sludge and liquid. To make the decomposition process more active, special products with biologically active components are added to the wastewater. Thanks to the absorption capacity of the soil and the processing of sewage by bacteria, the volume of wastewater in the storage tank is reduced many times over. Remaining sediments are rarely pumped out, so structures of this type are also called cesspools without pumping.

Construction of a cesspool without pumping

Very high requirements are imposed on the choice of location for installing filtration-type sewer systems, and non-compliance with them is subject to administrative and even criminal liability. In addition, with a high level of groundwater and a daily volume of wastewater of more than 1 cubic meter The installation of leaky wastewater treatment facilities is prohibited.

Sewage tanks of the second type are sealed systems, and therefore require regular use of the services of sewerage machines. Nevertheless, such cesspools are the safest in terms of impact on the environment and in some cases represent the only possible option sewerage installations country house or dachas.

When constructing a sealed cesspool, you must be prepared for the regular use of sewerage machines

Advantages of cesspools without pumping:

simple design allows you to build a storage tank with your own hands;
possibility of use various materials for construction;
increased interval between waste pumping;
low cost and low operating costs.

It would seem that the design of filtration cesspools should have no alternatives, right? In fact, this option has significant disadvantages, which can sometimes cancel out all the advantages:

high requirements for choosing an installation location;
decrease in absorption capacity over time;
the possibility of unpleasant odors appearing in the area;
environmental hazard;
the use of special bacterial compounds makes it impossible to use chemical detergents.

Skeptics who claim that cesspools like village toilets have been in use for a very long time and have not caused any harm to the environment during this time, would like to remind you of the manifold increase in water consumption in everyday life. This factor is complemented by high content household chemicals in drains, so such arguments can be considered insignificant.

Design and features of septic tanks without pumping

By spending a little money, you can build a more advanced drainage system - a septic tank. Its difference from a simple sewage pit lies in the presence of several tanks designed to process sewage by anaerobic bacteria. During the decomposition of organic waste, it is converted into homogeneous mass and neutralization of foul odor. IN modern systems the possibilities of biological processing and gravitational settling are complemented by forced post-treatment methods. The use of bioloading and biofilters allows you to filter up to 95% of wastewater. Unlike a cesspool, an anaerobic process occurs in septic tanks, due to which all bottom sediment is processed into sludge and liquid.

The presence of several chambers allows the use of an anaerobic method of wastewater purification with its subsequent discharge into a filtration well

Dividing the sewage tank into several tanks allows you to install an overflow system. Thanks to it, the wastewater goes through several stages of purification, which make it possible to obtain water at the outlet of the device, suitable for watering the garden and other household needs. If there is no need for this, then the excess liquid is simply drained into the ground, installing a filter bottom in the last chamber.

Just like a cesspool, you can build a septic tank with your own hands. Of course, it has a more complex design, but its manufacture does not require any expensive materials.

By deciding to install a septic tank on your property, you get a lot of benefits:

absence of unpleasant odor due to hermetic design;
you can completely dispense with the services of a sewer truck by using the sludge residue as fertilizer for the garden;
the risk of groundwater contamination by sewage is greatly reduced;
The multi-stage cleaning system operates effectively for a long time, ensuring constant sewage throughput;
A septic tank is a structure that practically does not change the ecological balance of the area.

The disadvantages of treatment facilities of this type include:

complicated design, involving the installation of several chambers, overflow and filtration systems;
the need for complete tightness of the structure;
higher construction cost compared to a cesspool.

As you can see, the disadvantages of a septic tank are few and are associated with the complexity of the design, which ultimately leads to higher construction costs. As for operating costs, they are considered insignificant.

Pros and cons of pumping

The existence of two parallel designs of cesspools and septic tanks, one of which is a storage type system, and the second a filtration system, gives rise to many disputes regarding the cost of operation and efficiency of use. To eliminate any speculation and rumors, we will try to give comparative analysis positive and negative aspects associated with the regular removal of wastewater from the site.

Advantages of sewage tanks with waste pumping:

more lenient requirements for choosing a location for installing wastewater treatment facilities;
high environmental friendliness of structures allows you to comply with all environmental and sanitary legislation;
long service life without the need to move the sewer storage tank to a new location;
absence of unpleasant odors associated with the discharge of processed waste into the ground;
there is no need to use special preparations necessary for biological processing and filtration;
possibility of using household chemicals of any type.

One of the disadvantages of pits without pumping is that not all available materials can be used in their manufacture

Disadvantages of systems with pumping:

complication of the design of waste tanks associated with the drainage of liquid into the ground;
it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the structure during operation;
inability to use chemical detergents in everyday life;
need for bioloading;
increase in the cost of construction;
higher requirements for building materials.

When making a decision to install a particular sewerage facility, first of all, one must proceed from the requirements of environmental and sanitary legislation. The opportunity to save is not always justified, especially when it comes to the health of others.

A cesspool made from a barrel that does not require pumping out wastewater

To make a cesspool without pumping, a regular plastic barrel is suitable

If the volume of wastewater is small or the sewage system is used irregularly, a plastic or metal barrel is an excellent option for a storage tank. When choosing a tank to connect to the toilet, you should give preference to the product as much as possible larger size, since sooner or later the accumulation of non-degradable residues will have to be removed. Of course, in a humid, aggressive environment, a plastic tank that does not rot or corrode will be more resistant. However, you can get by with a simple 200-liter metal barrel, for example, one used for fuels and lubricants.

Preparatory activities

At the initial stage, it is necessary to determine the daily amount of wastewater. It should be understood that for a large volume of liquid household waste, you will need a tank that can hold several cubic meters of waste, equipped with an opening for removing sludge. If you need to drain water from kitchen sink, washbasin or installed in the country washing machine, then a small capacity will be enough.

Next, choose a location for installing a sewer storage tank that will satisfy all the requirements of regulatory organizations and ensure the safe operation of the sewer system. In addition, it is necessary to make a small drawing indicating the depth of the pit, points of entry into the tank of waste pipelines, design features filtration layer.

Tools and materials

To make a waste storage tank without pumping, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

metal or plastic barrel;
corner grinding machine(Bulgarian);
electric drill and drill set;
shovel;
coupling and pipe for inserting a sewer pipe into a container;
plumbing sealant;
rolled geotextiles (non-woven fabric);
fine crushed stone and gravel.

Remember that the sewer tank small size more prone to freezing in winter time than sewage facilities designed for several cubic meters of wastewater. This, as well as the fact that disposal occurs due to the absorption of liquid into the ground, forces strict compliance with installation conditions in terms of deepening the structure below the level to which the ground freezes.

Instructions for making a cesspool from a barrel with your own hands

Scheme for installing a cesspool from a barrel. The drainage layer ensures the absorption of wastewater into the soil

A drainage system without the need for pumping, made from an ordinary barrel, is a special case of a drainage well. To install the container, you will need a small pit, which can be dug in a few hours. Its width is chosen based on the need for a 20-centimeter gap between the walls of the pit and the barrel, and the depth should ensure that the tank is installed below the freezing point of the soil, taking into account the thickness of the lower drainage layer (this parameter is taken to be 50 cm or more). For example, if frost reaches a depth of 1.5 m, and the height of the barrel is 1.2 m, then the depth of the pit should be at least 3.2 m (1.5 m + 1.2 m + 0.5 m).

When choosing a site for future construction, they comply with the rules and regulations for the installation of filtration wastewater structures, trying to maintain minimum distance from the drain point. Step-by-step execution work will make it possible not to miss a single detail and avoid installation errors.

Drainage holes are made in the barrel. If you are using a plastic container, they should be located in checkerboard pattern at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other.
How to make proper drainage holes Too dense a network of drainage holes can reduce the strength of the tank, so this is not recommended

As a rule, for normal operation of the structure, drilling with a diameter of 12 - 15 mm is sufficient. In this case, not only the walls, but also the bottom of the tank must be covered with a drainage network. IN metal barrel the bottom can be removed, and instead of a drill, use a grinder, cutting grooves up to 10 cm long according to the same pattern.
A common mistake is holes that are too large.
A pipe for connecting the sewage system is mounted on the lid of the barrel. Its diameter must correspond to the size of the pipes that are used for the drain line. The junctions are treated silicone sealant, which is applied both inside and outside the structure.
Installation of a pipe for connecting a waste pipe
To protect the drainage holes from soil particles, the barrel is wrapped in non-woven geotextile. This material perfectly permeates water and is able to perform protective, filtering and drainage functions for a long time.
Geotextiles are secured using synthetic cord or adhesive tape. In this case, the inlet pipe is left open.
A 50-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the pit, and for a thin-walled plastic container, 5-10 cm of gravel or screenings are added on top of the drainage.
Installing the tank in the pit. It should be noted that drainage holes not protected by geotextiles quickly become clogged.
Install the tank, orienting its outlet pipe towards the sewer line.
Using a coupling, connect the drain pipe to the barrel.
The sewer line can be connected not only through the top, but also from the side. In this case, the lid can be used as a hatch for pumping out bottom sediment.
The space between the tank and the walls of the pit is filled with crushed stone and the structure is covered with soil.

In a similar way, you can build a drainage pit connected to the toilet installed in the country house. The only thing that is needed is to cut a vertical pipe into the lid of the barrel that goes to the surface. This is necessary for periodic pumping of non-degradable waste.

Video: cesspool from a barrel at a summer cottage

How to build a septic tank in the country

No matter how large the cesspool, over time its filtration and absorption capabilities decrease due to particles of grease and dirt that clog the drainage pores. You can avoid these disadvantages and practically avoid pumping by installing a septic tank at your dacha. A simple, and most importantly, durable and effective structure can be built from concrete rings, which have a very affordable price.

Design and calculation

Schematic representation of a three-chamber septic tank

When starting construction, determine the volume of the structure’s settling tanks. To determine this parameter, you need to know the amount of wastewater that is generated at the dacha per day. There is no need to accurately measure this value; it is enough to take a consumption of 150 liters per family member and add the water consumption of each unit household appliances connected to the sewerage system.

The volume of the receiving tank must accommodate three times the volume of daily sewer discharge. For a family from four people you will need a primary chamber with a volume of about 2.5 cubic meters. meters, that is, almost three standard concrete rings with a height of 890 mm and a diameter of 1 m. When building a septic tank, you can use ready-made drawings and diagrams. If they somehow do not suit you, when drawing up your project, do not forget about the correct ratio of the size of the structure and the need to ensure complete tightness of the receiving chamber.

Photo gallery: drawings of the future design

Diagram of a septic tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank made of concrete rings

Tools and materials

To make a 3-chamber septic tank you will need:

concrete rings - 9 pcs.;
covers with hatches - 3 sets;
segments sewer pipes diameter 110 mm;
cement;
crushed stone;
sand;
reinforcement or steel bar;
waterproofing;
shovels and buckets;
container for preparing the solution;
hammer drill.

How to make a septic tank from concrete rings

Using the services of an excavator or asking friends or relatives for help, you need to dig a pit. Its size should ensure the possibility of applying waterproofing to outer walls structures.
Preparing a pit for installation of concrete rings
The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which a shock-absorbing cushion is constructed. To do this, pour a 30-centimeter layer of sand and compact it thoroughly, after which it is additionally watered.
An armored belt is installed at a distance of at least 5–7 cm from the bottom of the pit, after which it is poured concrete base for two cameras.
If you have the opportunity to purchase rings made with a bottom, take advantage of it. This will reduce construction time and ensure good sealing of the bottom.
Installation of concrete tanks
After the concrete has set, using crane or winches install the rings of the first two chambers. To increase the tightness of the structure, a layer is applied to the upper cut of the lower ring cement-sand mortar, and the rings themselves are additionally fixed after installation metal plates. This will avoid displacement or destruction of septic tank elements during soil movements.
Reservoirs are located at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.
The third chamber is a filtration well, so perforated rings are used for it. In addition, a drainage cushion is installed under the last tank, for which the bottom is covered with a layer of crushed stone at least 50 cm thick.
Installation of perforated filter well rings
After installing all the chambers, an overflow system is installed, for which holes are made in the side walls of the tanks using a hammer drill. The pipe that connects the first and second chambers is installed 20 cm below the entry point of the sewer line. The point where the overflow enters the third container should be another 20 cm lower.
Installation of concrete tank slabs
All joints of rings and pipe passages are carefully sealed cement mortar, and after it dries, additionally apply bitumen mastic. Treatment of junction points is carried out both inside and outside the septic tank, ensuring complete tightness of the structure. There is no need to seal the joints in the last chamber, since its function is to discharge treated wastewater into the ground.
Collateral proper operation septic tank is a reliable waterproofing of containers
Hatches are installed on the tank covers, after which the septic tank is filled with soil.

At large quantities The septic tank is connected to the filtration fields. They are a system of perforated pipes installed at an angle in a sand-crushed stone layer. Moving by gravity from the last chamber of the septic tank, the water undergoes additional purification. The main thing is that the distance from the filtration fields to groundwater is at least 2 m, otherwise the requirements of environmental and sanitary legislation will be violated.

The use of biological products can greatly increase the efficiency of a septic tank and reduce contamination of the cesspool with fatty deposits. The bacteria they contain actively convert wastewater into water and a small amount of bottom sediment. Microorganisms destroy sewage so effectively that they can even be used to restore the drainage properties of cesspools. The only drawback is that such products do not work well at temperatures below 4 ° C. In this case, you can use special chemicals.

Bioactivators and care products for septic tanks and cesspools

It should be remembered that when using biologically active substances, the release of ordinary household chemicals into drains is unacceptable. For washing dishes and other household needs, you should use special preparations with the indication “Bio” on the packaging.

If the septic tank or cesspool has not been used for a long time, then the wastewater can be pumped out with a conventional drainage pump, using the liquid processed by bacteria as fertilizer for the garden.

It should be remembered that a specially equipped wastewater facility is not a garbage container. Materials of inorganic origin, construction and household waste do not rot, so they will pollute the treatment structure, reducing its productivity. Use the sewer system for its intended purpose and it will repay you with cost savings and reliable, long-term operation.

By installing a cesspool or septic tank at your dacha, you receive comfort and convenience comparable to living conditions in a comfortable city apartment. Thanks to its simple design wastewater treatment plants This type is available for do-it-yourself installation, which allows you to avoid large financial expenses during construction and during operation. However, you should not save money if installing sewage storage tanks poses a risk of environmental pollution.

On summer cottage Having a sewer system is a huge advantage. Without this device, even a temporary stay at a summer cottage will be deprived of basic comfort and convenience. The specificity of this communication is that it can be arranged not only at the beginning of development and planning of a residential area, but also in the presence of all the buildings erected earlier. The main thing in this matter is a technological approach in compliance with all construction standards, which we will analyze in order.

The main difficulty that is often encountered when laying a sewer system in a dacha is the presence of centralized lines and collectors to which a pipeline could be laid and made fully functioning. In this case, it would be possible to connect all the plumbing fixtures necessary for comfortable stay. But this is more of an idyll than a reality, and it is extremely rarely possible. Most often, the sewage system in a summer cottage is completely autonomous and does not have access to public centralized networks.

In such a situation, the most accessible and uncomplicated would be a cesspool without pumping, which you can make with your own hands. How to do this and what do you need to have for this? First things first.

Where to start arranging sewerage in a summer cottage

In the construction business, first of all, careful planning of one’s actions and measures for building something is accepted. This applies not only to large projects, but also to such small earthworks as, for example, the construction of a cesspool.

The regulations and rules for arranging a cesspool on a summer cottage are determined by SanPin standards, as well as the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures.” The placement of a drain or cesspool must be agreed upon with the local authority of the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision. If it is placed near open water bodies, contact local environmental authorities.

SNiP also determines the distance of such structures from others on the dacha plot and in its vicinity. It can be classified according to the following indicators shown in the table.

Remoteness of the cesspool	Distance, m
Residential building	8-10
Water pipes	20-25
Gas pipes	5
Outbuildings, trees	5-7
Fences	Not less than 1 m
Neighboring houses	10-12

All these rules and laws were developed and adopted not by chance, because we are talking about soil and groundwater pollution harmful substances. Failure to comply with these standards can lead to irreversible consequences of an imbalance in the ecological balance, which will affect not only a specific area, but the entire district. Protective measures for sealing and reliable protection soil and groundwater from wastewater can significantly extend the service life of a cesspool without harm to the environment.

How to build a cesspool with your own hands

Cesspools vary in structure. They may have some kind of filtration or soil treatment system, or they may be completely closed. In the latter case, you should think about periodically emptying it using a sewage disposal machine, because storage tanks sooner or later they get clogged.

By definition, a drain pit without pumping must have a post-treatment or filtration system. And this is its main difference. Such devices are often used when its location for some reason completely excludes sewage disposal.

Important!
Despite the addition “no pumping”, which implies the absence of any maintenance, such a cesspool will, one way or another, eventually require cleaning. It is better to provide for this nuance in advance in the pit design itself, by making vents in it.

You can build a cesspool without pumping with your own hands in the following ways:

Important!
In such cesspools, which are not designed for pumping for a long time, it is worth making a settling well. This is a container that is part general design, and connected in its upper zone by a small pipe outlet. When the main tank overflows to a certain level, excess waste flows into the adjacent aeration tank. Biobacteria are added to it, designed to process and liquefy organic matter.

Important!
In some modern versions Reinforced concrete rings are provided with perforation along the entire perimeter of their walls. In this case, filtration and sedimentation of wastewater will occur faster. However, for this purpose the pit will need to be made 25-30cm wider, since it is necessary to provide for sand backfilling of these rings after their final installation in place.

Photo: reinforced concrete rings with perforation

A cesspool made from several wells - is it really necessary?

Filtration wells, as an addition to the main ones, significantly speed up the processing of wastewater like a septic tank, thereby extending the service life of the cesspool without sewage disposal. Therefore, it is often recommended to install them and not save on this device.

They can be part of the entire structure of the cesspool, or in separate containers, placing them on a slope for best stock. They are connected by pipe sections made of various materials: asbestos, PVC, HDPE, etc. They are equipped as aeration tanks, in which accelerated waste processing occurs. For these needs, various biobacteria are used, which also eliminate unpleasant odors especially in the summer.

Photo: cesspool made from several wells

Overlappings - what's the best way to do it yourself?

The upper part of the cesspools must be equipped with a reliable ceiling, on top of which a toilet, shower, etc. stall is usually installed. This element must be designed to withstand sufficient loads over a long period of time.

The best material for it would be reinforced concrete slab. If the size and capabilities of special equipment allow, you can use ready-made hollow-core reinforced concrete floor slabs. However, in most cases it is necessary to fill it at the site where the pit is built. To do this, you can use accelerated pouring technology using lathing from metal corners. In small cells resulting from welding individual elements, you can put flat slate, which will serve as formwork for pouring concrete. A frame mesh made of reinforcement will hold back deformations, and the thickness of the slab can be varied within 12-18 cm. This design is not difficult to make with your own hands, with minimal use of tools and the help of professional workers.

Despite the fact that a cesspool is one of the most ancient sewage structures, its modern analogues can be quite worthy devices that can function for a long time and reliably, and most importantly, without harm to the environment.