Mounting foam. Subtleties of use. Is mounting foam suitable for waterproofing work? Using mounting foam without a gun and a straw

Mounting foam polyurethane is an excellent sealant and insulation. It is used both for the installation of such large-scale structures as doors and windows, and for repair small defects. This material is used to patch various cracks and crevices, restore tightness at the joints, and even make other Construction Materials. Foamed polyurethane is quite easy to use, but you need to follow certain rules for working with it, be quite careful so that the seam is even and lasts a long time.

Peculiarities

The hardened polyurethane foam is an elastic solid material of a yellowish-white color. This very light substance has excellent heat and noise insulation performance. It very quickly loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, therefore it is mainly used indoors.

Such foam has a number of advantages that favorably distinguish it from other materials:

• increased moisture resistance, high rates of sound and heat insulation;
• low current conductivity, which allows it to be used in the installation of electrical networks;
• many types of foam are resistant to fire, which allows expanding the scope of its application;
• after exiting the cylinder, such foam expands in volume and fills even those microcracks into which it is impossible to insert a gun tube;
• polyurethane can be used to glue surfaces made of different materials, for example, wood or brick;
• the foam is completely non-toxic, while being resistant to chemical attack.

Almost all of the above properties must be specified by the manufacturer in the appropriate certificates, which can be requested from the seller.

The following information should be printed on the packaging itself:

• foam expansion volume. It can be from 10 to 300%, but most often, in fact, the foam still turns out to be somewhat less, since this percentage is indicated for ideal conditions;
• its viscosity;
• the volume of the container itself.

Most often, all these characteristics depend on the type and purpose of the foam, so you need to know which polyurethane and what it should be used for.

Release form

All types of polyurethane insulation differ in several criteria.

Depending on the method of application and the form of release, they can be of two types.

• Professional foam is produced in special cylinders that are inserted into a plastic gun with metal clips. Such a gun allows you to use polyurethane economically and in equal portions. The main thing is to thoroughly rinse the device after use so that the remnants of the substance in it do not freeze.
• Household foam packs are equipped with a small tube instead of a gun, which is put on the lever. It is not suitable for large repairs, but it will perfectly cope with minor flaws.

Depending on what time of the year and at what temperature the polyurethane will expand and solidify, the following types of mounting foam are distinguished:

• summer - used at temperatures from +5 to +35 degrees;
• winter - used at temperatures from -18 to +35 degrees;
• universal - it costs much more, but it can be used all year round.

It should be noted that the temperature ranges are indicated not for air, but for the surface on which the composition will be applied. The lower its temperature, the less will be the expansion of the finished layer.

In addition, foam may vary in types depending on the flammability class:

• B3 - combustible substance;
• В2 – self-extinguishing substance;
• B1 - refractory compositions.

Finally, mounting foams differ in composition. They can be one- or two-component. However last view foam is so difficult to handle that it is practically not used for private construction and when repairing a room with your own hands. Two-component foam hardens in a quarter of an hour and there is practically no time left to eliminate defects, therefore only experienced professional builders use it.

Scope of application

Most often, mounting foam is used in the process of installing windows and doors, laying electrical wiring and pipelines. Due to the high thermal insulation in this way, it is possible to foam seams and recesses in cooling and heating systems, cracks in the roof and when insulating the surface of walls, floors or ceilings. She fits perfectly Wall panels and foam boards providing excellent waterproofing. It is applied outside steel baths or cast iron baths to reduce the heat transfer of the metal when filling the bath hot water. With the help of polyurethane, you can insulate the space behind the sheathing of PVC panels. In almost half of the repair processes, it remains an indispensable material.

In order to avoid any problems both with small and with overhaul own house or apartment, you need to be able to use both professional and household mounting foam. To work correctly with the first, you must correctly install and use a special construction gun.

Gun installation includes the following steps:

• to begin with, the foam balloon is heated in warm water to room temperature and then shake it vigorously for 30 seconds. This will give the polyurethane a homogeneous state, which will allow it to exit the cylinder smoothly and in full;
• the protective cap is removed from the upper container of the gun, it is turned with the handle down and the cylinder is screwed into it. The container is screwed in with force until a hiss appears, which means that the mixture has begun to flow into the tool;
• if the gun was previously used and was not washed well, then hissing will not be heard and you will have to purchase a new tool;
• the system of connected elements is shaken strongly a few more times, turn the adjustment screw a quarter of a turn and, holding the trigger, begin to apply.

Working with such equipment does not require specific skills, but will require considerable dexterity if this is the first time.

Applying foam from a gun is carried out as follows:

• First you need to clear work surface from dust and dirt, then lightly wet it with a conventional spray, since the foam interacts better with a wet surface;
• the tool nozzle is directed to the surface;
• foam is supplied in the right amount by smoothly pressing the trigger;
• to pour the composition into a vertical recess, it must be applied from the bottom up;
• wide spaces are filled with zigzag movements by no more than a third of the volume, since the foam expands greatly in air;
• it is better to supplement the area after than to cut off the excess of the solidified substance.

The barrel of the gun is quite long by itself, but in order to glue materials in hard-to-reach places, for example, to fill the voids between a false wall, you should additionally purchase an extension hose that is put on it.

Despite the fact that the packaging most often indicates a hardening time of up to 8 hours, in fact this process can take up to half a day. After complete solidification, the excess is cut off with a regular stationery knife or a metal saw.

Unlike a handy construction gun, household polyurethane foam is equipped with just a small PVC tube that fits onto an adapter. In principle, the sequence of work itself is practically the same, however, more efforts will have to be made to fill the gap of the same volume. Such a tube is convenient for small volumes of work, because with it it is impossible to release the solution in equal portions. In addition, the balloon has to be constantly kept upside down, which is why the arm is constantly numb, so it is difficult to maintain smooth movements. If such a tube and adapter were not sold complete with polyurethane insulation, then you will have to buy them separately.

You will learn more about how to use mounting foam from the video.

Most often, mounting foam is purchased in the right amount at a time and after use, even if it is unfinished, it is thrown away. And also it is not bought in advance, as it has a limited shelf life. It is worth considering in more detail the nuances described below in order to be able to save.

Can it be applied multiple times?

It is widely believed among buyers that professional foam with a gun can be reused, but a household variety with a flexible tube, alas, is disposable and cannot be reapplied to the surface. Indeed, most often, if you leave the cylinder on the gun and block the trigger with a dispenser, the gun will not allow air to enter the cylinder and the composition will not harden. At next use it will be enough to remove the remnants of the frozen foam from the nozzle and you can start working again. However, exactly the same can be achieved from household remedy. To do this, you need to start releasing foam from the cylinder, but, without letting it go out, bend and pull the soft tube with a wire. The foam at its end will harden, but the fold will not allow air to penetrate further and spoil the entire volume of the substance. At the next use, the cured edge of the PVC tube is simply cut off and the foam is ready for use. The container can be stored in this form for no more than a few weeks.

If it becomes necessary to fill a hole, a seam or a gap, polyurethane foam is most often used. This material is used for rough finishing, installation door frames, double-glazed windows, repair of balconies, construction of various buildings (for sealing).

There are several types of mounting foam - for different conditions and tasks.

The product is sold in bottles of different volumes (from 300 ml to 1 liter).

Approximate composition (may partially differ, depending on the manufacturer and type):

1. Prepolymers (polyol, isocyanate) - the basis of the foam. Upon contact with air, this component enters the polymerization process, expanding and foaming.
2. Propellant (propellant, mixture of butane and propane). Displaces the composition from the cylinder when pressed.
3. Additives. Additional components that improve adhesion, regulate the degree of foaming, are necessary to change the operating temperature.

Specifications

Technical characteristics of mounting foam:

• Extension. Indicates the volume that the mixture occupies in 2 stages: leaving the container and solidifying. The larger the expansion, the denser the gap (seam, hole) will be foamed. Average rates are 10-60% for household formulations, and 180-300% for professional formulations.
• Adhesion. Indicates the tenacity of the composition with the surface inside the foamed space. The higher the viscosity, the less foam will slip. Actual if you need to foam holes on vertical surface(on the wall) or on the ceiling (from where the foam can drain before it hardens). In numbers, 0.4-0.48 MPa is considered a normal parameter.
• The volume in the container and the volume at the outlet. Common options: 300 ml (will give about 30 liters of hardened foam), 500 ml (will give about 40 liters of foam), 750 ml (will give up to 50 liters of foam) and 1000 ml (80-100 liters). The volume of cured foam is approximate, under normal conditions (room temperature).
• The temperature at which the foam can be applied.

These characteristics are indicated on the cylinder.

Purpose and scope

Mounting foam is used in construction at the following stages:

• Rough finish.
• Installation of door frames, balconies and window frames.
• Laying communications (for sealing between water pipes, sewer pipes, ventilation ducts, gas pipeline and wall so that there is no vibration).

Its purpose is to seal holes, cavities, seams and joints between structural elements if their width exceeds 2-3 cm. Previously, cement and tow were used for such tasks, but this method is longer and more complicated.

Pros and cons of using foam as a sealing material

The advantages of the application include the following nuances:

1. Easy to use (working with polyurethane foam does not require special experience or knowledge).
2. High speed of application and hardening (300-500 ml balloon can be completely released in 5-10 minutes, it will harden in 3-12 hours, depending on air humidity and temperature).
3. Can be applied to any type of material, including metal, plastic and polymer surfaces.
4. Strong adhesion to surfaces (after hardening, it will be difficult to tear off the foam, but if necessary, it can be cut off or washed with a solvent).
5. Moisture resistance (the layer of hardened foam does not rot, does not mold).
6. The presence of compositions with different characteristics(for different temperatures, with different degrees of protection against open fire).

Of the main disadvantages - susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation. Under sunbeams the foam dries out over time, but it is usually used at the stage of rough finishing, and is not left in sight - either covered with plaster or covered with panels (plastic, for example).

Types of mounting foam

All compositions can be divided into:

• The number of components.
• Method of application.
• temperature.
• Flammability levels.

By number of components

There are compositions:

• One-component. Sold in cylinders under pressure, do not require additional components: the composition can be applied immediately by spraying it from a container.
• Two-component. Sold in 2 separate containers. The contents of the containers must be mixed in certain proportions, and the resulting mixture should be applied using special devices.

In hardware stores, most products are single-component formulations. Two-component are usually used only for industrial purposes, with large volumes of work and, if necessary, to obtain the maximum high performance composition.

By way of application

There are compositions:

1. Professional. Foam is sprayed from a cylinder that is inserted into a construction gun. A more convenient option than spraying with a tube, it allows you to quickly work with a large volume (for example, to foam the gaps between the plates).
2. Semi-professional (household). A plastic tube is put on the cylinder through which the mixture will pass. Suitable for small volumes (for example, to foam a gap when insulating a balcony).

Plastic nozzle tubes are sold as a set with low volume volumes. They can be used several times (if the work is carried out in several stages, if several cylinders are used), for which it is necessary to blow out the tube after application (so that the foam does not freeze inside).

Foam guns are sold separately. The minimum cost is about 300 rubles, the average is 500-800. The device is reusable, at the end of work it must be washed with a special cleaner (composition based on acetone solution). Even if the foam hardens inside the nozzle, it can be washed off with a cleaner or cleaned mechanically.

The temperature at which the foam can be applied

By temperature conditions there are such types of compositions:

• Summer: designed for use at +5º…+35º.
• Winter: designed for use at −18º…+35º.
• Universal: used at −10º…+35º.

The temperature of the surfaces to which the foam is applied is indicated, not the temperature of the air in the room. Therefore, when working in cold weather (for example, if a balcony is glazed in winter, or the seams are foamed in a building under construction without heating or without windows), it is necessary to heat not the room, but the surface.

Also, the surface temperature affects the volume of the mounting foam: the colder, the less ready-made solution will be obtained at the exit.

According to the degree of flammability

It is relevant if the work is carried out in a room with the possibility of fire (for example, in a bathhouse).

Product classes:

• B1: fireproof.
• B2: self-extinguishing.
• Q3: combustible.

Popular manufacturers

On the Russian market There are products from these manufacturers:

1. Macroflex (Makroflex, Finland).
2. Bison International (Netherlands).
3. Soudal (Belgium).
4. Tytan, Hauser (Poland).
5. Bau Master, Domos (Estonia).
6. Master Gvozd, CHIP, Putech (RF).
7. Ceresit (Germany).

Rules for the use of mounting foam

Foam is used, observing the following rules:

• The width of the gap or hole should be in the range of 2-10 cm. Narrow cracks (up to 2 cm) are best sealed with putty or sealant. Wider gaps are best sealed with brick, wood or foam, and the remaining leaks should be foamed.
• When working in cold weather, the foam cylinder will need to be heated: lower it into a container with warm water(up to 30-40º approximately).
• You can cut off the excess only after 25-30 minutes after applying the foam, when it completely hardens. You can do this with a construction knife.
• The cylinder must be held upside down so that the gas pushes out the foam. If you hold the bottle upside down, the gas will come out of the container, but the foam will remain.
• After removing the cap and attaching to the gun (or tube), the container must be shaken.
• A cylinder with "household" foam is used completely in 1 run - an open container cannot be stored for a long time, it will harden.
• The gap cannot be foamed by more than 50%, because when expanding, its volume increases.

Complex nuances

To not have to cut a large number of foam and redo the structure, please note:

1. If the hole is 3-4 cm wide or more, the foam is applied in several steps: first, 1 layer, after it hardens, the next ones in succession.
2. It is better not to fill through holes with foam. On the one hand, it is recommended to cover them with something tightly (for example, with a board), and remove the “lid” only 30 minutes after foaming, when the composition has hardened.
3. When installing door and window frames, they must be fixed with dowels and spacers. If this is not done, the expanding composition may warp the box, and it will have to be installed again.

Stages of work

Step by step, the foam is used like this:

• The surface is cleaned of small debris, if any.
• The surface is degreased (acetone).
• The surface is moistened (sprayed with water using a brush or spray gun). Foam hardens faster and better if the surface (or air) is moist.
• If the room is cold, the balloon is placed in warm water.
• The balloon is opened, inserted into the gun (or a tube is put on it) and shaken.
• The end of the tube is inserted into the slot, and the foam is fed in portions, 5-10 cm in length of the slot, moving from bottom to top.
• After complete solidification (after 25-30 minutes), the protruding pieces are cut off with a construction knife.

Safety measures when working with polyurethane foam

Mounting foam - chemical composition in a pressurized container. Therefore, you need to work with it, observing the safety rules:

1. Do not drop or heat the cylinder.
2. Do not use the cylinder near hot surfaces or open flames.
3. The work is carried out with gloves (if the foam gets on the skin, it will be difficult to clean it off).
4. You need to keep a sponge and a rag on hand - to clean off the composition if it gets into an “unnecessary” place.

Removal of foam in contact with "unnecessary" surfaces

Mounting foam sets to the surface quickly, so if it gets somewhere other than the right gap, it will be hard to clean it off.

Ways to clean different surfaces:

• Leather. If the composition is not frozen, it is removed with a sponge, and the residues are washed with acetone or a solvent. If it is frozen, it is cut off and rubbed off with a scrub.
• Textile. The uncured composition is collected by any solid object (a piece of a board will do). Frozen pieces are cut off, and small residues are washed off with a solvent. In both cases, a stubborn stain may remain on the fabric.
• Plastic window sills, frames, slopes. The fresh composition is removed with a sponge, the remains are washed off with a cleaner for plastic surfaces. The dried layer is cut off, the remnants are washed off.
• Linoleum, laminate. Fresh foam is removed with a solid object (a spatula, a piece of board), the remains are collected with a sponge dipped in a cleaner.

In order to prevent such situations, in addition to the skin, it is necessary to protect the surfaces around. It is advisable to cover them with plastic wrap, rags or newspapers.

Mounting foam is one of the most difficult materials to remove: if it has already got on fabric, leather or other surfaces, it is quite difficult to clean them. But it's worth a try.

Surface	fresh foam	hardened foam
Hand skin	Carefully removed with a sponge, the remains are removed with improvised means - scrub, acetone, thinner, gasoline, saturated saline	Removed only mechanically. Usually loses its properties and falls off after 2-3 days
Textile	It is collected with a stick, the residues are removed with a cleaner. Important! When processing the fabric, stains may remain!	Large pieces are cut off if possible, and the remains are treated with a special solvent for hardened foam, white spirit or gasoline. Stained spots are removed with stain removers.
PVC (frames, window sills)	Carefully removed, the surface is wiped with a special cleaner for PVC	Carefully cut off, the surface is wiped with a special cleaner for PVC (usually marked - for installing windows)
Floor covering (linoleum, laminate, parquet)	Remove the foam with a spatula, collect the rest with a sponge moistened with a cleaner. Spots may appear! FROM wooden surfaces they are removed by grinding, while varnished coatings cannot be cleaned off - they will have to be replaced.	After cutting off the foam, the residues are carefully dissolved with a special cleaner or Dimexide preparation (sold in pharmacies). It is necessary to work with such substances with gloves - potent components can cause burns!

As you already know, mounting foam is not designed to seal holes smaller than 1 cm - it is better to fill such gaps with silicone sealants.

Alexander Birzhin, rmnt.ru

Mounting foam is also called polyurethane foam sealant. This is one of the types of foamed polymer that has industrial significance.

Why is polyurethane foam preferred in construction? What is foam made of?

Types of foamed polymers

Styrofoam can be obtained from almost any known plastic mass. But only some types of foamed polymers are valuable for industry.

1. Polyvinyl chloride foams.

Are issued in the form of elastic strips or rolls. Widely used to insulate window frames for the winter.

2. Styrofoam.

Produced in the form of plates. It is mainly used in construction for thermal insulation of building walls, for forming the inner layer in wall and roof structures of the "sandwich" type.

3. Carbide resins.

Widely used in conditions construction site as jellied foams, in the creation of heat-insulating layers.

4. Polyurethane foam (rigid and elastic).

The scope of this material is quite wide:

• creation of seamless insulation (sealing and sealing of joints);
• insulation of floors, walls and roof structures;
• solid insulation by spraying roofing and interfloor surfaces;
• insulation of windows and doorways, underground and surface pipelines;
• equipment for ventilation, heating, air conditioning systems; insulation of bridges and road surfaces, etc.

The prevalence of polyurethane foams is explained by their following qualities and characteristics:

• optimal for construction works physical and mechanical properties;
• high heat engineering, sealing and waterproofing performance;
• diversity technological process when creating an insulating layer.

The most interesting from the point of view of economics and practice are those materials that do not require complex and expensive fixtures and equipment; long time to get results. Polyurethane foam became such material.

Introduction to mounting foam

1. When cured, it is a gas-filled plastic mass based on polyurethane.

2. Hard polyurethane foam - rigid foam with a closed-cell structure.

3. There are dispersed gas-air inclusions in the polymer matrix of the sealant.

4. Polyurethane foam is available in small and convenient bottles.

5. The initial composition is applied in the form of a jet, which the installer directs with a nozzle into the cavity.

The composition of the mounting foam is complex. Let's name the main components:

• diisocyanate (polymerizes under the influence of ambient humidity);
• carbon dioxide (foaming agent);
• polyisocyanates.

The composition easily exits the container, rapidly foams and increases in volume, forming a homogeneous mass with a yellow tint.

At this moment, the most complex chemical, physical and mechanical processes simultaneously occur inside the substance:

• increasing the viscosity of materials;
• increase in volume, structuring and loss of mobility;
• formation of a closed cell structure;
• solidification of the substance, the formation of a solid foam;
• bonding polyurethane foam composition with the material of the treated surface.

The stages of polymerization can be conditionally designated as follows:

• strong rise;
• moderate rise;
• slow rise.

The duration of these periods depends on the brand of mounting foam. If we compare the structure of the resulting foam, its physical and mechanical properties, then significant differences will be noticed. For example, one foam gives a high-strength material, but with an uneven structure. Accordingly, the compositions of mounting foams of various brands are different.

The manufacturer can change the recipe for polyurethane foam sealant. Thanks to this, mounting foams for domestic and professional needs, for residential buildings and industrial buildings with high level fire hazard, for summer and winter work.

Polyurethane foam - very practical and comfortable material, the advantages of which are appreciated not only by professionals, but also by home craftsmen. However, there are little tricks that will help you expand the scope of its use or apply the foam more intelligently.

Remember that mounting foam, like any other product, has a limited shelf life. When buying, be sure to check it on the bottom of the can.

Shake the can well before starting work, and keep it upside down while working with it. This is necessary so that the gas that squeezes the contents out is above the foam.

How to properly apply mounting foam

Since the polyurethane foam coming out of the can needs moisture for its effective expansion, which it mainly receives from the air, moisten the area to be treated with it a little beforehand. However, remember that excessive moisture can prevent it from sticking.

When the mounting foam has hardened, its excess is removed with a knife.

How to foam hard to reach places

If you need to foam some hard-to-reach place, it can be very difficult to work with the tube usually attached to the spray can. To perform such an operation, you can put a thin flexible hose on the regular tube of the can.

When the place to be treated with foam is too high, the end of the flexible hose can be fixed on some kind of holder or a regular stick. And don't forget to always keep the can upside down!

By foaming a very narrow gap, you can heat the extension hose with a match, pull and break it.

At the point of rupture, the diameter of the hose will be very small, which will guarantee High Quality filling up a small space.

What to do if the tube attached to the can is lost

If this much-needed tube is lost, then you can put a heat-shrink tube on the can dispenser, and use a fairly wide washer as a dispensing stop.

In this case, you can work with foam, as with a regular native pipe.

How can you clean drops of mounting foam

If you accidentally dripped foam somewhere, it is better not to smear it and wait for the foam mass to dry. Then simply peel off the hardened material. If a drop of foam is still smeared, use ordinary acetone, which will easily dissolve the polyurethane composition.

And further. Do not forget that mounting foam is a great and reliable adhesive!