Acoustic systems are divided into active and passive; the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system has similar functionality to a player. Let's look at what to do when the speakers don't work. Speakers include a myriad of sound reproduction devices; readers are interested in how to repair speaker systems with your own hands. You will need special glue. When the USSR was in use, BF 4, AK 20. Solvents were selected accordingly (based on the glue). You will need to disassemble, dismantle the connection, and repair the speaker system yourself.
The structure of a typical acoustic speaker
A moving part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.
Classification of acoustic speakers
Repairing speaker systems with your own hands, if you doubt how the device works, relies on the principle of doing no harm. Regardless of speaker size speaker system formed by electrical and mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet and a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of speakers for acoustic systems.
- Electrodynamic playback devices form three classes, united by the concept of the presence of a magnet and a moving membrane:
- Reel machines are built according to a principle known to the owners (repairers) geysers. When the inductor voltage is applied, the magnetic ring causes the membrane to move according to the law of the applied audio frequency current.
- In strip magnets, the role of an alternating magnet is played by a narrow corrugation. No coil, of course, inside. Speaker applications require matching transformers. A sign identifying the type of speaker of the speaker system.
- Isodynamic loudspeakers include a square, round spiral that moves parallel to the membrane in the field of a permanent magnet.
- Electrostatic playback devices have no moving parts. The membrane vibrates without making translational movements. The speakers reproduce high frequencies perfectly due to their low inertia.
- Piezoceramic speakers exploit the effect of converting electricity into vibrations of a quartz crystal. It is clear that you will not achieve high power from the device; the speaker is suitable for reproducing high frequencies of acoustic systems. Main advantage technical solution in low energy consumption.
- Ion speakers are practically rare; the theory was developed in the 50s. The operating principle is based on the modulation of gas ions by sound vibrations. Need to get electric arc. Ideas have been put forward to use flames formed by positive and negative particles (air ions).
Readers are familiar with naturally occurring sound-reproducing devices. There is not always an inductor in the dynamics of an acoustic system. Therefore, before repairing, in the process, the technician carries out the correct classification of the devices by properly carrying out the necessary operations.
The device of the speakers of the acoustic system
Partially touched the device. Let's take a closer look at electrodynamic models. The diffuser forms the support of the cap. It is represented by something like a wide horn onto which a coil is glued on the reverse side. Flexible membranes fit directly to the membrane cap copper conductors, carrying electric current, breaking through the diffuser from the inside. The soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light, it is required to ensure a relatively low inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork A of the first octave lies at a frequency of 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the specified speed, the moving part of the acoustic speaker must be light.
The magnet is mounted motionless on the frame. Usually circular. An inductor runs in the hole in both directions, moving the cap-membrane assembly. The connecting wires perform constant oscillations. To position the moving part along the vertical and horizontal axis, a centering washer is used. A perforated piece of elastic material that centers the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. The repair is ridiculously simple:
Since the membrane and cap do not break, the point is to check the electrical installation, where the wires are soldered, and the integrity of the coil.
The inductance is wound in the same way as the old one. Each layer of turns is coated with BF 4 glue. Poor-quality soldering is done again. Select the appropriate winding method and inductance. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks standing on a long board opposite each other. Both are connected by axes. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a caliper.
Winding is carried out relatively quickly while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly one to the other, following the shuttle principle. It is important to maintain the correct number of revolutions and properly position the terminals.
Often you have to disassemble the speaker of an acoustic system for repairs. Stock up on solvent. The glued joints are wetted and a fixed time is waited. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. This is done regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.
Speaker range
Speakers for acoustic systems different types, each has a limited range of reproduced frequencies. Each one works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. A 5–10% solution of TsAPON and cellulose in acetone are used. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misaligning the moving part of the speaker system. By performing the operations sequentially, we will increase the resonance frequencies by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.
To reduce the range, you should stick weights on the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. The symmetry of the arrangement of parts should be more accurately maintained. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range of high frequencies narrows. However, in the resonance region, the speaker of the speaker system will demonstrate good performance.
The range can be expanded in both directions (if there is no cap). In the center, from the front, above the inductor coil of the speaker of the acoustic system, a truncated cone is glued. The mass is made as small as possible. Thin, thick paper impregnated with TsAPON varnish will do. The upper platform is equal to the coil, the height is half the diffuser, the taper is 70 degrees. Due to the increase in mass of the moving part, the resonant frequency drops, but the upper end of the range rises, thanks to the rigid core, harder than the diffuser. As a result, the spectrum of reproduced sounds expands in both directions. The total increase will be one and a half to two octaves, the game is worth the candle. Take care to configure the electronic part correctly: if there are passive filters on capacitors and resistors, they will limit (cut off) the capabilities of the mechanics.
Masters Promote sound pressure at the resonant frequency for an unshielded magnetic system. Try to find this or similar set ring. Then glue the second magnet onto reverse side standing, the interaction of fields will intensify, therefore, the strength of sound will increase.
The design of the acoustic system is simple, but it can break, they said. We hope the renovation goes off without a hitch.
How to wind a speaker coil?
The speaker coils are wound turn by turn until the specified coil length is obtained. In this case, as a rule, the number of turns is not counted.
- Coil.
- Sleeve.
- Pad.
- Sample.
When winding, maintain constant tension on the wire and carefully lay out the turns. The turns of the second layer are laid out especially carefully, when each turn must be strictly laid between the turns of the first layer.
To make it convenient to carry out such precise work, take care of the hand rest.
The coil with winding wire can be secured in any way convenient for you and installed on the floor.
More about it a simple machine for winding speakers you can read.
Another useful tool, which will be needed for winding the coils, is this kind of clothespin with a weight.
The required viscosity of the glue can be achieved by adding a small amount of alcohol with thorough mixing.
Expand the player to full screen to see the video in full resolution.
Before the main winding, several extra turns are wound onto the sleeve in order to securely fasten the wire and sleeve to the surface of the template. Then, during the next extra turn, an even layer of glue is applied to the sleeve with a brush.
After this, the first layer of the coil is wound quickly. Then a weight is attached to the wire, which allows you to maintain the necessary tension on the wire and free up your previously occupied hand. Then, the first layer of the coil is covered with glue.
At this stage, do not try to secure the end of the wire by winding it around some object!
Any excess bend in the wire can increase the size of the coil, thereby reducing the external air gap.
If you still cannot avoid kinks in the wire, then pull the problem area through your thumbnail several times.
After fifteen to twenty minutes, when the glue has dried, you can begin winding the second layer.
First, one or two turns of the second layer are wound, and then the first layer of the coil is covered with glue. This is done so that the fresh glue does not dissolve the glue applied earlier, and the first turn of the second layer does not fall into the gap formed between the outer turns of the first layer.
After winding the second layer of wire, the coil is dried for 10-15 minutes and then covered with glue again.
When the glue dries well, you can either remove the coil along with the sleeve from the mandrel, if it is already glued into the diffuser, or glue it into the diffuser directly on the template.
However, in some cases, the sleeve is glued into the diffuser already during speaker assembly.
To remove the sleeve from the template, the place of the gasket where the fixing drop of glue was applied is cut off, and the sleeve is removed from the mandrel along with the spool and gasket.
If the gasket does not slide along the mandrel, it means that the wire tension during winding was too high. It should be noted that excessive wire tension can reduce the gap between the sleeve and the core and make speaker assembly impossible. This is because copper wire can stretch and contract like any other metal.
Since there is a gap in the sleeve, when winding the coil, glue penetrates into it and the sleeve is glued to the gasket.
In order to separate the gasket from the sleeve, it is enough to use a brush to lightly moisten the place where the gasket is stuck to the sleeve with acetone or alcohol.
Now our coil is ready. Now it should be completely dried.
For final curing of the glue, electric current is supplied to the coil. The current strength is selected to achieve optimal mode curing.
The temperature during the drying process can be measured with an electronic thermometer.
If there is no suitable power supply, then the coil can be connected to the ULF and a signal from the Low Frequency Generator (LFO) can be applied to its input. The link to the software LFO is in the “Additional Materials”.
Curing mode for adhesives “BF-2”, “BF-4”.
Leave for 60 minutes. at room temperature.
Then 15 min. at 55... 60ºС.
Then 60 min. at 85… 90ºС.
Today, the number of fans good sound, which simply throw away the wheezing speaker does not decrease! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can amount to a significant amount. I think that the following will help anyone who has hands that grow from the right place to fix the speaker.
Available - a miracle of design thought, which was once a column S-30 (10AC-222), now performing the functions of one of the autosubs. A week after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he made extraneous sounds when practicing bass lines, and wheezed slightly. A decision was made to perform an autopsy.
After the autopsy, the diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - a woofer 25GDN-1-4 manufactured in 1986. The organ clearly needed surgery - when you gently pressed the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when dialing different tones (produced by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible scratching-crackling sound was heard with a large stroke of the diffuser and when applying ultra-low (5-15 Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepanate this organ
First, the patient's flexible lead wires were unsoldered (from the side of the contact pads)
Then, with a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as “Moment”), using a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and diffuser were glued together (around the perimeter) was moistened...
Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (along the perimeter)...
And the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the diffuser holder basket (again around the perimeter)
The speaker was left in this state for about 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three steps (as the solvent was absorbed/evaporated)
Attention! When working with solvent, you should observe safety precautions - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) and mucous membranes! Don't eat or smoke! Work in a well-ventilated area!
When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the place where the coil and centering washer are glued!
Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations using sharp object You can carefully pry up the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to apply significant force, repeat the operation by wetting its edges with solvent and waiting!
After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).
By this time the centering washer has time to come off. Carefully, without any effort, separate it from the diffuser holder basket. if necessary, re-wet the gluing area with solvent.
We wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait... We wet it again and wait again... After 10 minutes you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (along with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is to be careful! Do not damage the rubber suspension!!!) 
We clean the gluing areas from old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient to determine if there is a malfunction. Let's look at the reel. If there are no abrasions or loose threads on it, we leave it alone. When a thread comes off, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.
We carefully inspect the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction found in old speakers with a large diffuser stroke. The supply wire at the attachment point is frayed/broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread running through the center!
Carefully bend the copper “tendrils”...
And unsolder the supply wire.
We repeat the operation for the second transaction (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)
We cut off the supply wires at the break point...
And we tin the resulting ends (of course, we first use rosin). Care is required here! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wiring like a sponge!
Carefully solder the wiring into place, bend the copper “antennae” and glue it with glue (Moment, BF-2) where the wiring connects to the diffuser. Let us remember - you cannot solder wires to the fastening “antennae”! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?
Assembling the speaker. We place the diffuser with all the “equipment” in the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places where they are attached. Then we check the correct polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” speaker - the diffuser will “jump” out of the basket. We place the diffuser so that its “+” supply wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.
We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin, to maintain the length.
We center the diffuser in its basket using photographic film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruded outward, it will freely rest on it and not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of photographic film, placed in pairs in front of each other, are enough for this. The length of the photographic film should be such that it does not interfere if you place the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. Glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend “Moment”, main criterion choice so that the glue can later be dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the diffuser holder basket, then I apply a thin layer of glue to it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally pressing the washer to the basket around the perimeter using my fingers . Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).
We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under a load (this is why our photographic film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)...
Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the movement of the diffuser with our fingers. It should move easily, without making overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and the core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and feed it low-frequency tones at a low volume. There should be no extraneous sounds. If the gluing is incorrect (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be unstuck (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With high-quality assembly, 99% of the time we will get a fully working speaker.
Apply glue to the edge of the dust cap, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Care and precision are required here - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it greatly spoils appearance dynamics. When gluing, do not press on the center of the cap!!! This may cause it to bend and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and glue it back.
We wait until all the parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of a new factory similar speaker.
That's it, now you see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So, in an hour, you can leisurely repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker, domestic or imported (for gluing up imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, be careful - they are poisonous!!!) that has a similar defect.
Yes, after the operation, the former patient got his second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work.
Previously, we have already addressed the topic of repairing car dynamic heads or, simply put, repairing a speaker with your own hands. Then we considered a method of restoring the head suspension using ordinary silicone. But we also encounter problems of a more serious nature. That is why today we decided to focus on such a common problem as misalignment.
Naturally, today everyone knows what a dynamic head consists of. So, in it, an electrical signal is converted into membrane movement and propagates through the air.
At the time when the same signal is focused on the coil, a magnetic field is formed that interacts with the magnet. And due to the fact that this signal is temporary, the coil begins to vibrate, as if running away from the field. However, the coil has nowhere to run and begins to transmit this signal to the diffuser, which in turn transmits it into the air, producing sound. Naturally, this process is transferred in simple words, and in technical terms it will sound completely different. But the essence itself is important.
An iron core is used here to direct the field. In turn, this core is attached to permanent magnet. It is a round disc-type iron platform with a sleeve in the center, which consists of a voice coil. In order for this coil to move easily, there is a special gap in the middle of the magnet and the core. And due to some unfavorable factors, the glue that connects the disk to the magnet weakens and the core crushes the coil, which leads to the immobility of the diffuser. The speakers may work, but you won't be able to hear any bass.
How to get out of this difficult situation? And is it possible to make the speakers return to their original state? normal condition? This is exactly what will be discussed later in the article. So, in the situation that I encountered, the speaker mount was broken, and because of this, I immediately started with the centering washer. It happens that in speakers the same centering washer is attached with very weak glue.
Therefore, in order to separate the washer, you just need to moisten the junction of the chassis with it with simple acetone and wait a couple of seconds. And in some cases, acetone alone is not enough. Most often this concerns high-quality speakers, where strong and high-quality glue is used to attach the washer and chassis. Here you need to resort to real vandalism. Namely, it is necessary stationery knife cut off the washer and wires coming from the voice coil towards the speakers. 
Next you need to disconnect the diffuser.
At the end of these manipulations, it becomes clear that the core sticks to the magnet and needs to be put in its place, namely in the center. However, it is worth noting that this is not at all easy to do, because here you need to work with iron and a permanent magnet.
They interact extremely reliably with each other, and it will be difficult for you to place the core in the center. It is important to understand that the voice coil is completely attached to the diffuser and is crushed. Therefore, you need to tighten the diffuser itself. After freeing the coil, you need to carefully inspect it.
If the varnish that covers its wire is damaged or the coil itself is dented, additional reconstruction of the coil is also required.
To repair the coil, the first thing you need to do is look for metal sheets, the thickness of which is half a centimeter.
These sheets need to be attached between the core and the magnet. In general, we need to fill all the space that the coil occupies. 
In this case, each plate must be inserted evenly so that the distance is equal on each side.
After all this, you need to glue the magnet to the washer holding the core itself. Best to use for this good glue by type of moment.
You can also take epoxy for these purposes, but here you need to mix it with sawdust or pieces of fabric for greater reliability.
Then, after the glue has hardened, you can remove all the plates and put the entire speaker back together.
The suspension and centering washer sit on the same glue. In this case, it is also possible to additionally repair the suspension.
In this way, you can repair heads of various types.
And I also want to note one point: if you decide to sell your car and don’t know where to start, just call the Center-Auto company, which will buy your car. Even if it is after an accident, contact and receive money on the same day.
Navigation through the FAQ.
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How to disassemble a loudspeaker head?
Be careful not to bring steel tools close to the magnetic system, especially from the side of the diffuser or centering washer! This may damage the diffuser or dust cap!
If you still need to use tools near a magnetic gap, use tools made of non-magnetic materials.
If the centering washer is glued with epoxy resin, then repairing a loudspeaker in the absence of spare parts can be very problematic.
In other cases, the complexity of the repair depends only on the design of the speaker and the adhesives used during assembly. If the glue that glues the suspension and the centering washer can be dissolved with acetone, then you can safely begin disassembly.
Most adhesives dissolve better when the speaker is still young. It happened that such speakers could be disassembled in a matter of minutes. Adhesive joints made with BF-2, BF-4 glue or glue with similar properties are best able to be dismantled.
To disassemble the speaker you will need the following tools and materials.
- Acetone is a solvent.
- Alcohol is a solvent.
- Pipette* – for dosing the solvent.
- Scalpel – for cutting adhesive joints.
- Spatula – for cutting adhesive joints.
- Matches - as gaskets.
- Calico (cotton fabric) – to remove glue residues.
- Box wrench – for dismantling the magnetic system.
Other tools and materials may also be needed.
Chemically pure acetone** is preferable to other solvents due to its relatively low toxicity. Therefore, it is better to choose acetone even when it is inferior to other solvents. For example, adhesive joints made using “88N” glue are better dissolved by ethyl acetate, but it is much more toxic.
True, if the diffuser and centering washer are glued with “BF-2” or “BF-4” glue, then ethyl alcohol can be used as a solvent. However, the possibility that there may be water in the alcohol makes acetone preferable.
Depending on what exactly is being dismantled, the appropriate dismantling techniques are selected. So, for example, if a paper hanger comes off, then the glue should be dissolved with the utmost care. If the rubber suspension comes off from the speaker body, then the work can be done more aggressively.
* A convenient pipette can be made from a glass drawer and an “artificial vein” from a dropper (an elastic band into which needles are inserted directly while the medicine is being delivered into the vein). An ordinary medical pipette quickly breaks down under the influence of acetone, and its length does not allow it to reach some adhesive joints.
** Pure acetone is easy to distinguish by its smell. You just need to know this smell. Unfortunately, nowadays they sell anything under the name “Acetone”. Often some arbitrary solvent or mixture of different solvents is poured into bottles. And this is not surprising, because we have 400 gr. acetone, costs the same as a bottle of vodka. This good reason to exchange a bottle of vodka for a bottle of pure acetone at some production facility.
Dismantling the suspension.
If you're having trouble persevering, consider playing your favorite movie in the background, as dismantling the moving system of a large speaker can take a long time.
Dismantling of the rubber suspension begins from some edge where there is less glue flow. By adding acetone and lifting the edge of the suspension, a cavity is created into which acetone is again poured.
The work will go faster if you start dissolving the glue in several places at once.
Each time, adding a few drops of acetone to the formed cavities, gradually raise the edges. To prevent the suspension from sticking back, matches are placed under it. As the glue dissolves, the matches are moved to the edges of the cavity.
Dismantling a cardboard hanger from the body side differs from dismantling non-paper hangers only in that it requires more accuracy and patience.
Great efforts should not be made so as not to damage the suspension, which becomes especially vulnerable under the influence of the solvent.
If you use too much solvent, you can damage the mounting surface of the suspension, and even the corrugation itself. Therefore, if the adhesive joint is difficult to dissolve, then mechanical influences must be used. A not very sharp scalpel will do here.
If you notice that the cardboard corrugation has begun to delaminate, then it is better to pause work and think about another technology.
After dismantling the paper hanger, the mounting plane may become deformed. You can return it to its original shape if you place the diffuser on a flat glass or other solvent-resistant surface, and again slightly soften the mounting plane with acetone. During this operation, you can also remove any remaining adhesive.
In some cases, for example, when the very edge of the paper corrugation on the side of the body is already damaged, you can cut off the suspension along the edge and build up the lost fastening edge using fabric or paper. It may seem that this is a very time-consuming repair option, but if the suspension is destroyed under the influence of a solvent, it will be completely impossible to restore the speaker without a spare cone.
In other cases, it is easier to peel off the suspension from the diffuser side rather than from the body side. This method gave good results when repairing 10GDSh-1 (10GD-36) speakers with foam surrounds, although they were still new.
In some cases, when rewinding the speaker, the centering washer is peeled off only from the side of the housing. This is usually done when the glue with which the washer is glued to the diffuser does not dissolve well and the diffuser may be damaged during dismantling.
But it also happens, on the contrary, that it is much easier to glue the joint between the centering washer and the diffuser than along its outer perimeter. Then it becomes possible not to center the speaker during assembly.
However, sometimes, after rewinding and assembling such a speaker, it may require additional alignment. This mainly applies to speakers in which the centering washer is glued not to the diffuser, but to the sleeve, and may be due to too large a gap between the sleeve and the centering washer.
When dismantling the centering washer from the body side, the adhesive joint is soaked with solvent along the entire perimeter. As the glue softens, the edge of the washer rises and matches are placed under it.
When dismantling the centering washer from the diffuser side, the adhesive joint is also impregnated with solvent along the entire perimeter.
To prevent damage to the diffuser due to prolonged exposure to solvent, the process can be accelerated using a small spatula.
At the end of dismantling the diffuser and centering washer, remove any remaining adhesive from all surfaces using a solvent and calico (cotton fabric).
To prevent debris from getting into the magnetic gap, the gap is sealed with electrical tape.