The market for finishing materials today is truly huge, but for the interior of a bathhouse, where humidity is always high and temperatures are high, there are restrictions on the use of cladding. It is quite natural that materials that, under the influence of high temperatures will emit substances harmful to health: plastics, chipboards and others. This is probably why the popular wood is widely and universally used for interior decoration of bathhouses. different breeds– a natural, affordable and easy-to-work finishing material.

Although, if the bathhouse is built from timber or logs, which look appropriate and natural in the interior, the bathhouse may not be lined with anything from the inside at all. After all, if all construction technologies are properly followed, the owner will not have to rack his brains about additional insulation. Although in this case, it is quite possible to line the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard - this is the most common and beloved cladding. Lining is the name for carefully dried and planed boards made from wood of different species.

Let's take a closer look at the features of different types of wood so that you can choose and buy the most suitable lining option for finishing your bathhouse.

In this video, a professional team is covering a sauna with clapboard:

Which tree is better to choose

When choosing what to cover the inside of a bathhouse with, consider the conditions under which the lining will be used: for finishing a steam room, some species will be the best, for a relaxation room - others, and for a washing room - still others.

The clear leader is linden, especially when used for steam rooms. Charging human body positive energy, it releases various essential oils with anti-inflammatory and bactericidal effect, helping to improve health and enhance the diaphoretic effect. And it smells just wonderful. In addition, linden does not burn the skin and does not heat up much due to its low thermal conductivity.

Aspen, also, is very pleasant to the touch, and is useful for health, drawing out negative emotions and various ailments from the body. It does not rot, even in constant contact with water, and is quite soft, so it is easy to cut without breaking. The price of aspen lining is much lower than linden.

Larch is a conifer that produces many phytoncides and has a positive effect on a person’s well-being and the body’s resistance to various infectious diseases. This material would be great for decorating shower walls. And larch floors are reliable and durable material, only become stronger over time. In addition, no wood beetles or rodents are afraid of this wood.

Hard, very hot wood species - oak and ash - are resistant to rotting, moisture and temperature. Due to the fact that this wood does not deform, barrels, fonts and doors are made from it. Oak wood darkens over time, which only decorates products made from it. Ash, lighter than oak, can still rot under conditions of high temperatures and humidity, so it is subjected to special treatment and used in finishing the interiors of bathhouses, in the manufacture of doors, furniture, stairs, railings or parquet.

The most durable of the hardwoods discussed here is black locust. It surpasses even oak in strength and is resistant to rotting, so products made from it are not deformed and almost do not break. These products are distinguished by their particular durability and wear resistance, which allows the use of acacia in bathhouse areas with the highest humidity - for doors and steam room floors. Acacia boards darken under the influence of temperature and time, acquiring deep, beautiful shades.

Today, bathhouses and saunas, loggias and balconies, walls and facades of houses are sheathed with this beautiful, reliable and natural wood material. In appearance, a block house is similar to a log, surpassing it in strength many times over. After undergoing special drying, this material reaches a humidity of no more than 12%, so when installing this board, you don’t have to worry that it will dry out or become deformed.

The internal lining of the walls of the bathhouse is made with a block house of deciduous or coniferous wood. Since denser conifers have greater heat transfer, it is not recommended to decorate the steam room with spruce or pine materials, because leaning against a pine wall in high temperatures can cause a burn. But lovers of a specific pine aroma in a steam room often choose a block house made of cedar for its cladding - over time, its resin ceases to stand out from this material.

Glass-magnesium sheet (VMS) MAGELAN

Under the MAGELAN brand, the building materials market has been rapidly conquering the innovative, highly functional and reliable glass-magnesium sheet - SML - also called “magnelite” since 2007.

LSU is made on the basis of magnesium chloride and magnesium oxide, finely dispersed wood chips and other binding components, reinforced on both sides with a fiberglass mesh with a cell diameter depending on the purpose and class of the material.

This material has many advantages:

Magnelite is an environmentally friendly material that does not contain harmful substances such as resins, asbestos, adhesives and phenols. Having no odor, it does not emit toxic substances even at high temperatures.
LSU has high fire resistance, withstanding open fire and significant temperature changes and preventing fires.
High moisture resistant characteristics magnetite make it possible to successfully use this material indoors high humidity– swimming pools, saunas, showers. With prolonged exposure to water, LSU does not soften or deform.
The antiseptic properties of LSU prevent the formation of fungi and mold, which again allows it to be used in rooms with high humidity.
This material is light and easy to process; it can be installed quite quickly and does not require any special devices or tools.
On the front side of the LSU it is possible to use any decorative and finishing materials, which gives unlimited possibilities in the interior decoration of premises.
MAGELAN is also distinguished by high sound insulation properties, its surface is not electrified, eliminating the formation of sparks - these qualities of the material allow it to be used in the production of structures for various special purposes.

The best way to decorate the inside of a bathhouse is for everyone to decide for themselves. But the accessories, shelves and loungers in the steam room are, of course, made of traditional wood.

We told you about the most preferred materials for finishing a bath, ranging from traditional wood to modern material MAGELAN and we hope that we were able to greatly facilitate the process of choosing material for the interior decoration of the bathhouse.

The steam room is the most important room of the bathhouse, because there is no bathhouse without a steam room. Traditionally, around this small room, for convenience, additional spaces are designed, of which there can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower, a relaxation room, a swimming pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to decorate the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will not just be the external design of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of problems:

walls are being prepared;
thermal insulation is applied;
thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
produced external finishing;
Design developments are brought to life, giving the interior completeness and aesthetics.

The finishing of the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. Therefore, the first two important steps are:

choosing a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless during temperature changes;
choice the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths have been built from century to century; ancestors used natural materials to insulate them: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and maximally environmentally friendly; they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. To insulate a steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the production of which rock waste is used as a raw material. This material is produced both in rolls and in slabs. It is resistant to microorganisms, environmentally friendly, and durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply irreplaceable for thermal insulation of those areas of the wall and ceiling that are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rots, can withstand the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to placing a steam room.

Basalt wool – technical specifications insulation

As for the film, foil films become most effective at 100% humidity and maximum temperatures.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Selection of finishing material

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but the most important are the performance qualities:

hygiene,
resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
safety and complete absence toxins,
durability and reliability.

Attention! When producing a steam room, it is prohibited to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various types of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances released by artificial materials can seriously harm your health.

The most suitable materials for finishing a steam room are considered to be lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Tree - traditional material in our latitudes, it is used to create Russian-style baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwood, since they do not emit resin in the heat.

Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength; such wood does not rot or crack.
The lining made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give you relaxation.
Special decorative qualities Ash possesses, its core is incredibly beautiful, this species is very durable.
The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Hardwoods dry out quickly and are therefore not threatened by fungus. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots, which can cause harm to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause serious burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, you must definitely check the pine boards for the presence of so-called “resin pockets”.

The finishing of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

TO installation work They begin after the electrical connection has been made, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need the following materials and tools:

building level,
fastening device,
hammer drill,
screwdriver,
hammer,
linings for sheathing,
clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, starting work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To prevent heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled using wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently end up at different heights.

Installation of sheathing and insulation

No.	Illustration	Comment
1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first on bare wall, which has been leveled in advance, the membrane is mounted.
2		And only then the timber sheathing is attached. Use well-dried timber 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. It is excellent if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted level on the wall. After this, according to the principle of racks, the outermost bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand allows for the “movement” of the wood during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is covered with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach bars of a smaller cross-section to them. This method of fastening is called floating; it will help avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire sheathing is adjusted to the level and secured, and pads are used if necessary.
		For semicircular or patterned surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole beam, but parts of it.
5		Insulation is placed into the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or become deformed, so it is secured with polypropylene twine.
6		Then a second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, and it is fixed with a stapler.
7		To prevent the tree from being subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing an antiseptic for wood

The purchased wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, infectious agents and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When purchasing, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Among the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, it can provide fire-retardant impregnation and protection of affected areas of wood. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for steam rooms and protects wood from rotting.

Neomid 200 – impregnation

100% natural flaxseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the best environmental choice.

Linseed oil Can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Thanks to its high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensation, and prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stains, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA – wax

Prices for wood antiseptics

antiseptic for wood protection V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

To work you will need:

short-haired brush or brush,
white spirit,
warm water,
soap.

The surface to be finished must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will adhere more tenaciously.

The timber and lining must be impregnated from all sides, after which the wood must dry (48 hours). Before use, it is recommended to heat linseed oil TM “GreenTherm” in a steam bath to 40°-45° degrees C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or rag.

Attention! The brush should only be short-haired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a long-haired brush is not suitable for the job.

Excess oil that the wood has not absorbed is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between applying 2-3 layers, technological breaks of at least 12 hours are observed. The ends of boards and timber are treated especially carefully. Drying requires 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20° C and a relative air humidity of no more than 65%. The presence of excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as desired, in accordance with the artistic design concept. But when decorating a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unevenly, because at the top of the room the temperature is the highest, and at the bottom it is the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is carried out unevenly, the boards will very quickly “lead” to high humidity. The logical choice is to place the boards horizontally.

If the lining is fastened horizontally, then the board is heated evenly along its entire length, and bending deformation does not occur. Of course, different finishing elements, depending on their location, will be completely different conditions, but this will not affect at all general view sheathing.

Fastening the lining

Before starting work, you need to take measurements of the steam room and cut the lining to the required height.

The choice of fastening type depends on the room temperature.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps rather than nails. The finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so they can cause burns. The clamps are completely invisible, and the lining secured by them can be dismantled and installed several times.

The steam room is lined from the stove and goes around the perimeter of the room. The correct installation direction is from top to bottom.

The board is attached with the groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The lining boards are assembled “groove into tenon”, like a construction set.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will flow freely without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from rotting. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws; in this case, they can be easily dismantled and replaced without dismantling the entire sheathing structure. The trim is nailed onto the door opening using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot. reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One of reasonable decisions– lay a row of tiles in the place where the walls meet the floor.

Video – Finishing the bath

Choosing tile or stone

For a good bath, with a smell natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, suitable for finishing with tiles from natural stone: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials can withstand the highest temperatures and have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for the floor and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic finishing is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made from clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors or fumes at all. To decorate the steam room, choose products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors; it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video – Finishing the inside of the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of about 6 square meters you need to prepare:

level and tape measure,
6 square meters of ceramic or stone tiles,
three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
one package of Terracotta grout,
drill for stirring with attachment,
construction gun,
hammer,
spatula.

Attention! Heat-resistant adhesive from the Terracotta company is used in areas where the temperature will not exceed 400° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic; it is used in places where heating is up to 1100° C.

First, the base is prepared. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is applied, then a mesh is applied, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

Done on the floor cement screed, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and drainage must be organized. Twine or fishing line is stretched along the perimeter of the floor or wall, so you can check the correct installation.

Before laying begins, the ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

When producing a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed thoroughly, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from bottom to top, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely cut drywall instead of crosses. When installing drain holes on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

Floor tiles are installed using glue with sand; glue without sand may shrink. All other rows are placed according to the level with the already created slope.

Mortar is applied to the back of each tile so that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed against the floor. It is then pressed down with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant Terracotta grout is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is filled with water and mixed with a mixer. After this, the solution can be poured into the gun tube, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! The grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only then easily remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work has been completed, the first fire can be carried out.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room

The most important room in a bathhouse is the steam room. Except yours main function it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because it is much more pleasant to spend time where it is beautiful. Let's consider how to decorate the inside of the steam room so that it pleases with its appearance.

Choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used to cover the steam room, which gives the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many various types wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is better to cover the steam room with?

For production finishing material Various types of wood are used for baths. However, it is not recommended to use coniferous wood for lining the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: ""). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, and aspen. If you really want to enjoy the pine aroma during bath procedures, then you can finish it with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

When choosing what to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with, you should pay attention to such points as:

The wood must be moisture-resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
The resin content should approach zero. Best option so that the resins are completely absent.
The surface must be flat, smooth, free from roughness, gaps and knots.
Wood should have low thermal conductivity, since wood that is highly heated in a steam room can burn the skin.

When choosing which is the best tree to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining made from such wood is considered the most optimal material. First, find out which lining is best for a sauna, only then start planning construction. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and releases beneficial essential oils.

Aspen also good material for the steam room, as it is durable, durable and has healing properties. And another advantage is its low cost.

When deciding what kind of wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, and does not absorb moisture. In general, such wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bathhouse.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

low thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
high density;
durability;
strength;
does not deform;
pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.

When covering the steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (more details: " "). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should begin to be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical posts, between which the insulation material will be laid. To do this, markings are made, which should start from the corner. Distance between internal parties the racks should be 59 cm. This step will allow you to correctly install the insulation of the required thickness.

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along its entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. Take the stand and press it against the wall, then use a copier to draw and draw lines that repeat the shape of the log house.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the stand, with a pitch of 60 cm, is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. The steam room board must be treated with an antiseptic.

A protective film is placed under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. Galvanized screws or nails are suitable for fixing the material to the logs. You can do without long screws: a blind hole is drilled in the rack, which should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull a rope from above and below the wall, it must be tied to the outer posts. This will help you align and install the interior posts.

Tension and alignment protective film It is necessary in such a way that no air gets between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

When installing corner posts, insulation material must be laid immediately.

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Naturally, before starting this stage, you need to already know how to line the inside of the bathhouse, and also purchase all required material. The most used and recommended method of fastening the lining is flush fastening.

Before you begin finishing work, you need to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Before attaching to the walls, the lining must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it will be used.

The floor in the steam room must be higher than the floor level in other rooms. The shelves are installed above the heater by about 10 cm. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Only natural materials should be used inside the steam room.

It is very important to choose what kind of wood to cover the steam room with, since not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the finishing features of the important room baths, which determines whether the procedures taken will be useful.

The bathhouse is an amazing place to relax and recuperate. Therefore, it should not only be hot, but also comfortable. Every owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up, interior decoration which is no less important stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then this article will be useful to you. Here you will also find professional instructions for different types finishing, and step by step photos important finishing works, And detailed videos that will help you solve your problems at the highest level. Our advice will help you stick to your principles construction technologies when performing cladding, cladding, etc.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bathhouse, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bathhouse and its medicinal properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bathhouse requires the presence of several rooms:

vestibule;
steam room;
washing room

If you have built a large bathhouse, then it is quite possible to equip it extra room recreation, billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bathhouse, equipped with everything that seems necessary and useful to you. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for a bath:

all premises should have an attractive and practical design;
the steam room should have hot and pleasant steam;
the washing room should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a great influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior finishing, it still needs to be done in the bathhouse. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions For comfortable rest, and will also significantly extend the service life of walls, floors, and ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. Read below about how best to finish a steam room, washing room, vestibule.

When planning the decoration of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

The constant presence of heated steam flowing in a concentrated and dense stream;
Temperature changes, heating to high temperatures;
High level humidity.

The conditions in the steam room can be said to be extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern wide range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will in the best possible way meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

Low heat capacity, ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
Moisture resistance;
High aesthetic characteristics;
Pleasant smell, no resins when heated;
Resistance to fungus and mold;
Air purification.

Today there are several classes of lining:

C-class. It is characterized by low cost. But its characteristics are not high enough for finishing a bath.
B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, and resin pockets. This class includes material on which there are no more than four knots for every 1.5 m of length;
A-class. Shallow cracks may be present. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m length is allowed on each panel.
Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding price. The color is uniform, there are no cores or knots.

The most common profiles are eurolining, tongue-and-groove, Softline, Shtil.

Excellent results Linden lining is used as interior decoration for a bathhouse. Its density is quite low, so it does not heat up very much in a steam room. At the same time, it does not release resins. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

Lining made from other types of wood is also suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing a particular material for cladding, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, high-quality processed, and free from nicks, knots and other obvious defects. High-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

The material for covering the steam room does not require additional treatment with special means. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before you start covering it with clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. She is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last slightly longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then we cannot help but recall cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, and fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is intended not only to take a shower and wash properly at a comfortable temperature. The washing room should have a place to relax so that you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with a massage, face and body masks and other relaxing and pleasant procedures. It is necessary to think through all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be made taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If you can choose among deciduous wood for the steam room, then only coniferous wood is suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very simple to explain this choice. Coniferous wood is resinous and has high water-repellent properties. Therefore, in washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood and will last for many years, maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of materials for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, place on the ceramic floor wooden pallets or removable logs. After each visit to the bathhouse, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washing room can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. It copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all rooms of the bathhouse. This is the most important aspect that must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials. Any type of wood can be used for vestibules and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. For high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms, other materials are also suitable:

Porcelain tiles;
Plaster;
Natural stone;
Fiberglass wallpaper;
Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of bathhouse premises. For example, the combination looks very solid and beautiful natural stone and wood. A do-it-yourself bathhouse will allow you to turn your non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, photos of which are presented on this page, will help you choose the optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand high temperature loads, and also cope well with streams of hot, humid steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them airtight, their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. When exposed to high temperatures, this material releases substances that are toxic to humans and is therefore unsuitable for use in bathhouses.

Each joint between the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is taped with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole should be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

Two-millimeter stainless steel sheet;
Galvanized box;
Tie clamp.

The ceiling is cut mainly to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling. In addition, in this way, the chimney elements receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A stainless steel sheet 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, on the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is covered with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the service life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and steel sheet have found their places, inner part the box is insulated and filled with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the box contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention instructions that will help you cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

The ceiling is lathed with 2x4 cm slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps 10 mm.
Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
Fastening the panels begins from one of the walls. The first plank is aligned with the groove facing outwards. The tenon of another panel is driven into it. The order of connecting the tenon and groove can be changed, it is not important.

When performing sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material carefully and carefully without damaging it.

Using special clamps, secure the planks. The clamps are attached to the rail with screws or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.
There should be gaps of up to 2.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask gaps, just nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with nails with inconspicuous heads. Such nails must be driven in at an angle, and the head must be firmly driven into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing must be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel, a level check is required. If you don’t have a level at hand, you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be tamped so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out uneven and sloppy. Tapping is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness using another method. Wooden overlay fix it and drive sharp wood chips under it.

The only material suitable for covering walls in a steam room is wood. It is suitable for other bath rooms, but you can also use other materials in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and rest room you can create original ensembles, combining various materials.

Cladding walls with clapboard

According to the main parameters, wall covering with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling finishing.

The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step – 80-100 cm.
You need to put insulation in the recesses between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. There is no need to compact the insulation.

Pay attention! All work with mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulating corner joints.

Remember to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the spacer. The sheathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the sheathing must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, slats for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal slats, string can be stretched between the vertical slats near the ceiling and floor.

Separate bars need to separate the door area and the window;
Now you can proceed directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls without getting stuck in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the tenon of the panel should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and remain in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by attaching the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you use screws or nails, insert them at an angle, driving the heads deep into the wood. There should be ventilation gaps of about 2 cm between the ceiling and the casing, the floor and the casing.

A common problem that people encounter when cladding bathhouse walls on their own is the need to cut the material. This is not difficult to do. You can cut the paneling with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is trimmed to the right size and is fixed to the sheathing. Next wall starts with the panel from which the ridge is cut. It should fit snugly against the last batten of the previous wall. In the corners, elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angles before cutting the strip or panel. Draw a pencil line on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints left in the corners of the panels.

The most important point when performing finishing work inside the bathhouse is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. If the stove is located close to the wall, mineralite should be laid in two layers. If there is at least 40 cm between the stove and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
Solid red brick. They need to lay the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tiles – best option for finishing all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the actual execution of the work.

Preparatory stage

Preparation of concrete or cinder block walls involves removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparation wooden walls consists of performing waterproofing. Using a construction stapler, roofing felt and roofing felt are nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which the concrete mortar.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail down an even beam. It will become the basis for finishing. Instead of timber, it will also do metal profile. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal ones, use a building level. For vertical ones, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in a bathhouse

You can prepare the mortar for fixing the tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy ready mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes. Before laying, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will stick to the mortar much better.

Work starts from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially carefully, because it is this that determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the neatness of the entire cladding.

The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the glue protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber hammer.

It is important to maintain equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you have laid adjacent rows, secure special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will allow you to maintain the same gap both in length and height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After this, you can remove the level and grind the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is removing grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving them a final aesthetic appearance.

By using ceramic tiles You can realize your wildest creative fantasies. You can lay it flat, diagonally, offset, or patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile complex pattern or a drawing, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where each tile should be located. This will allow you to flawlessly complete the cladding and give your bathhouse a truly original and unique look.

Unusual and very stylish solution for a bath - this is finishing with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will also work.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

The mastic is spread thickly on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than regular ceramic tiles;
We apply the slab to the wall, press it down and level it;
We continue to work in the same order with the remaining slabs;
To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
10 hours after installation is completed, you can begin processing the seams. It is made with heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until the consistency of sour cream.
Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
The grout is applied using a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not get on the slabs themselves or other surfaces.

Working with a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It's better to wait a little until the grout dries. This way you can carefully scrape it off.

The direction of grout application can be any;
Two hours later, you can move on to jointing, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
After this, you need to walk along the seams with a finger wearing a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bathhouse does not require additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying begins from one of the corners. In this case, perfect evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bathhouse is sloping towards the drain. But it’s still worth marking the approximate location of the tiles on the floor level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
Using the teeth of a spatula, a pattern is imprinted on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection to the tile;
The tiles are being laid out. During operation, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about the slope! The tiles for the first row must be dry. It is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
Corner elements are cut to required sizes using a tile cutter;

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Bathroom finishing: choosing best materials for steam room, washing and changing rooms

Steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the village and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And they lined the steam room pine boards. Aroma! Beauty! There was no limit to the joy until hot drops of resin began to drip onto my head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to improve my theory, and not just be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this matter is also not superfluous.

Materials for walls and ceilings

It will not be news to anyone that no synthetic materials are strictly used for lining the steam room. Many of them tolerate heat and moisture well, but when heated they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable one is wood in the form of a polished edged boards, lining, blockhouse or imitation timber. However, there are limitations here too!

Are all breeds able to withstand temperature changes, resist fungus, and not rot due to constant contact with moist air? Not all of them. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, get very hot, or “cry” with resin.

Brief characteristics different varieties wood, which is most often used to decorate baths and saunas, will help you make your choice:

Linden. Changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a delicate pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the linden shelf needs to be doused before planting. cold water or lay down a sheet. Insulate the walls simply with linden lining without thermal insulation material It is unlikely to succeed due to its high thermal conductivity. Cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

Black alder. According to operational characteristics of the ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary, the aroma and color of wood become more saturated over time. Besides doesn't heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But it does not emit particularly useful phytoncides and is more expensive than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

Aspen. Finishing the inside of the bathhouse with aspen is not the best best solution in terms of aesthetics, because when exposed to moisture it turns gray. But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, since it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

Larch. If you need quality, beauty and, as they say, to last for centuries, then larch is great choice. Including the price (up to 1000 rubles per square), if you compare it with the cost of valuable wood species with similar properties. She has the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases over time. But finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

Ash. This wood is already classified as valuable varieties and it's worth square meter such lining costs between 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use of a steam room for finishing, it is ideally suited for this purpose: it has beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature and, moreover, has healing properties, especially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

Oak. Of our local wood species, this is the densest and most beautiful. In all respects it is suitable for tiling a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs a decent amount: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

Abashi. For those who do not expect to spend a lot of money, you can skip this and the next points, since decorating even a small room with African abashi oak will be very expensive. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood surpasses all others in moisture resistance and has an unusual richness. But all this is unlikely to justify its price, since it does not provide any benefit to the body and, moreover, gets very hot.

Canadian cedar. The most expensive material listed, used only in elite baths. Exudes a pleasant aroma and healthy essential oils. Very beautiful, easy to process. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles per square meter.

The range of prices in these examples is explained not only by the different thickness of the boards, but also by their length. Short ones are cheaper. In general, all of these are grade A or Extra products, so you can find them cheaper.

Now about very popular and inexpensive breeds, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid rooms.

Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining, costing 200-240 rubles per square meter, is made from just these conifers. And it is perfect for covering walls in a recreation room and making furniture for it. The exterior decoration of a pine blockhouse is also quite beautiful and durable if the walls are built from bricks or blocks.
But you can’t put pine in the steam room. I have already described the reasons above - this is the “tearfulness” of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to humidity it becomes loose. And since protective impregnations cannot be used here, it will not last long.

Birch. Completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially showers in bathhouses. Very afraid of moisture: it quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold. But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, it is not inferior to larch or oak in terms of strength and wear resistance. It can be considered as a finishing material for a rest room. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square meter is quite tolerable.

To be honest, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important what you line the walls and ceiling with: very few people will understand at one glance at expensive wood how much it cost you. It is much more important how to decorate the bathhouse. Well-polished, well-fitted boards that are pleasant to touch are half the success.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional finishing for our region and the exotic finishing are very different:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative finishing in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles - even better. All this can be done from expensive varieties.

All these tricks with wall cladding are not needed if they are made of thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to caulk the seams well and sand the frame. But finishing a block or brick bathhouse is not only about decorating unsightly surfaces, but also about the possibility of insulating them and reducing heat loss. But that's another topic.

It is also necessary to think through such an issue as fireproof finishing of a bathhouse made of timber or logs.

I will not repeat in the following sections about the suitability of this or that type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves; making a choice will not be difficult.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery and not get too hot. The most inexpensive solution is a cement screed with wooden ladders laid on top. A little more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same drains.

Ladders are gratings made of thick boards or bars that can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed on all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood; you can even use pine - on the floor it will not get so hot as to release resin.

Another thing is solid wood flooring. Here you will have to choose species that are resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - heat-treated board. It undergoes special treatment with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, thereby acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of 40 mm thick pine flooring will cost about 1,250 rubles, and 2,700 for alder.

Washing room

The washing machine may be different. If water is supplied to the bathhouse from a centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower stall or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. Often both are found, complemented by a large plunge pool or even a swimming pool. And also washing rooms combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of a wooden bath will be different:

For the common room, all the materials described in the previous chapter are used. This is a wood that can withstand intense heat on walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with drains.
In a wash room, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration You can use any wood except birch. Including coniferous ones. Here the temperature is not so high, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

Shower finishing in wooden bath can also be done with clapboard, but in this case need a good one supply and exhaust ventilation so that the boards dry after finishing the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and the coating must be renewed periodically.

It will be much more durable to cover the walls with tiles or stone at least one and a half meters from the floor. If load-bearing walls wooden ones, they are waterproofed, sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and tiles are glued onto it.

A very convenient option is a shower room with a door or curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fenced off a corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to decorate the walls in the washing room: with tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

It’s even easier to install a ready-made shower stall, and then you don’t have to worry too much about wall cladding; plastic panels. In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling here can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint that is resistant to washing. But if you regularly use the bathhouse, you will need to update the coating at least once every two years.

Types of finishing such as wood and plastic lining, rack or suspended ceiling. They are not afraid of moisture, spotlights can be built into them, and the space between the ceiling and the cladding can be filled with thermal insulation.

If the bathhouse is wooden, built from ordinary logs or timber, finishing can begin no earlier than in a year. Because it will settle as the wood shrinks, deforming the cladding.

If you don’t want to wait, you can bother with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article “Facing with plasterboard wooden house" And unlined walls must be treated with a natural-based antifungal antiseptic impregnation.

Locker room

The materials for decorating this room can be very different. But better than wood It's hard to come up with something. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishes: decorative plaster, tiles from artificial stone, various wall, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

If this is a small dressing room in a separate bathhouse, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to moisture resistant wood trim. Especially if the bathhouse is heated once a week, and the rest of the time it is not heated.

If this spacious room holiday with a heating system from home, then your desires are unlimited. Even wallpaper and painting on the walls - as long as you like it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the outside of the bathhouse, any façade materials can be used here. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking the joints, sanding and treating with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of brick, foam blocks and other building stones are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of a timber bathhouse will please you for many years in a row, without requiring repairs or alterations. To do this, it is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials that have little health benefits. In this regard, our native linden wins a hundred points over the African oak, and it looks no worse.

If you have anything to say or ask on the topic, you are welcome to comment. Let's discuss.