How to sheathe a wooden house with insulation. Instructions for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside. The following vapor barrier products are sold on the market:

High-quality insulation of the house is the key to a comfortable life in the cold season. Therefore, to avoid being disturbed by frost in winter, you should think about the choice of material and insulation technology in advance. This applies to all cases, including insulating a wooden house from the outside. Let's look at what you should pay attention to when choosing suitable material, as well as how to do everything you need yourself if we are talking about a building made of wood.

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials. Some of them are very popular among consumers, while others, on the contrary, are used quite rarely. Let's look at what characteristics determine popularity and which options are used most often:

stone wool in slabs – lightweight and comfortable material, which can be transported without problems and can be cut even with a regular knife. These slabs are laid between the frame elements and then covered with vapor barrier and waterproofing material on different sides. The main thing is not to compress or compact the mats while transporting them, as they are easily deformed;

ecowool is a material created on the basis of cellulose, which is compressed and packaged. For insulation with its help, you can use two options. In the first case, I take the cotton wool out of the open package, knead it slightly, and press it into the walls. It is difficult to say unequivocally how good this method is. Some manufacturers claim that with such insulation you will not have problems for 10 to 20 years. Although it is impossible to completely deny the possibility of shrinkage and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the material. The second method is called wet, since ecowool is sprayed onto the walls, due to which the material adheres to the frame and the risk of subsidence is eliminated;
polystyrene foam is a very common and cheap way insulate the building. Its low cost is due to its fragility, brittleness, and the need to additionally cover it with a moisture-proof membrane in order to avoid condensation accumulation in the future. It is important that for insulation you need to buy only unpressed sheets of polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam is a material consisting of two separate components mixed together under high pressure. When it comes into contact with air, it behaves in the same way as regular polyurethane foam - it expands. Insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam is quite effective and reduces heat loss to a minimum. In addition, it has the property of repelling water;
insulation materials of natural origin are various mixtures and slabs made from sawdust, straw, clay, etc. The cost of this method is low, but when choosing this option, you need to be prepared to tinker. One of the easy-to-use natural insulation materials is, perhaps, flax fibers.

Other materials used for external insulation of house walls

In addition to traditional materials, there are several more options that, although they have not yet gained such popularity, still often surpass the characteristics of those already considered.

Basalt slabs for. The price is the only drawback that can be found in this material. Despite its similarity with mineral wool, this material is many times superior to it in terms of technical indicators and characteristics. It provides excellent thermal insulation and at the same time is able to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes. Over time, it does not shrink and does not lose its characteristics. So its considerable cost, in comparison with other materials, can be called more than justified.
Penoplex is a material that is quickly gaining popularity, despite the fact that it has recently appeared on the market. The material is extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by low weight and good moisture resistance. This allows it to be used without laying additional waterproofing layers.
“Arctic” insulation consists of synthetic fibers that are bonded together under the influence of hot air. The material is excellent for use in the harshest weather conditions. This insulation is considered breathable and provides good thermoregulation in both winter and summer.

Useful advice! When working with any type of thermal insulation material, personal protective equipment must be used to prevent fibers from entering the respiratory tract and on the skin, as this can cause irritation.

Advantages of external insulation of a wooden house over internal insulation

Choice the right way carrying out work on insulating a wooden house is the key to a quality result. Internal insulation of houses is used extremely rarely, since a thick layer of material will noticeably reduce the area of the room. In addition, wall insulation in wooden house from the inside will lead to the fact that the outer side of the walls will still be exposed to cold, which will lead to freezing of the wood.

Incorrectly carried out work and non-compliance with insulation technology frame house can lead to the fact that the tree begins to rot from the inside and becomes a favorable environment for the activity of fungi and mold. That is why the method is no less important than the choice of material suitable for this purpose.

But when insulating externally, it is also important to ensure that vapors can escape freely. Otherwise, the wood will deteriorate and it will be impossible to control the condition of the walls.

Features of the technology of facade insulation with mineral wool

When laying the thermal insulation layer, it is necessary to provide waterproofing to the walls. Glassine is excellent for this purpose. Despite its low cost, it does its job perfectly. Initially, you need to cut strips from it and secure them to the frame using a stapler. The step should not exceed 12 cm.

Glassine sheets are glued overlapping so that the overlap is about 10 cm. This helps prevent condensation from getting on the heat-insulating material.

Useful advice! If, after insulating the house, you plan to cover it with siding, then you need to make sure that there is free space between it and the insulation (approximately 30-50 cm). This will not allow moisture to linger in the frame.

When the glassine is secured, you can proceed to laying the insulation. Mineral wool in this case is an excellent option, since it is not prone to fire and is easy to install. The main thing is that the thickness of mineral wool for wall insulation is selected correctly. For a temperate climate, this figure should be 80-100 mm, and for regions with harsh winters, material with a thickness of 150 mm can be used.

The technology for insulating facades with mineral wool provides for the following sequence of work:

it is necessary to measure the distance between the posts;
to the result obtained, add 5 cm to the allowance on each side;
Using a sharp knife, we cut the mineral slabs for wall insulation to the required size and lay them on the wall on top of the waterproofing;
The joints between the frame and the insulation are additionally covered with cut strips 3-4 cm wide.

A layer of vapor barrier material must be laid on top. Penophenol, which is attached to the frame using a construction stapler, is excellent. After this, all that remains is to cover the walls with siding or edged boards, depending on your desire, and you can consider the procedure of insulating a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool completed.

Useful advice! Penophenol should be laid strictly in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints so that there is a foil part on the outside.

Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam: material features

Expanded polystyrene has an extremely low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be effectively used as a thermal insulation material for external wall cladding.

Extruded polystyrene foam was first used in the USA, where it immediately gained popularity due to its characteristics. Its production involves mixing a special composition consisting of carbon dioxide and freon with granular polymer. The resulting mixture is fed under high temperature into a special apparatus called an extruder. Its task is to foam the composition and ensure high-quality mixing of all components.

The mixture obtained in the extruder is formed into slabs, which harden to form a lightweight and durable thermal insulation material. The advantages of this technology for insulating walls with penoplex from the outside include the low vapor permeability of the material, as well as durability and resistance to external factors.

According to manufacturers, the service life of this material can reach 50 years if the installation technology has been followed. In terms of its structure, polystyrene foam consists of 90% air, which is enclosed in cells.

Expanded polystyrene is always used specifically for external wall insulation, since the material has a considerable volume, and internal insulation of rooms will lead to significant losses of free space. Considering standard thickness polystyrene foam for wall insulation 80-100 mm or 30-40 mm, laid in two layers, then such losses of usable space inside the house will be very noticeable.

At the same time, the effectiveness of this method should not be underestimated, since by using this heat insulator, savings of about 50% on heating costs are achieved. Although one cannot help but notice the rather high price for the work. Insulation of polystyrene foam walls from the outside, taking into account all the necessary finishing works, will cost from 1300 rubles per 1 m².

Useful advice! In order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to carry out work at a temperature of at least 5ºC and in as dry air as possible.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating facades with polystyrene foam

Like any work related to surface insulation, it all begins with preparing and cleaning the wall from dirt and any excess mortar. Protruding elements of reinforcement and simply protrusions, which are not an architectural solution, can interfere. When all excess has been removed, it is necessary to seal all cracks and crevices and prime the surface.

When preparation is completed, it is necessary to install vertical sags. The easiest way to do this is with nylon cords, fixed in increments of 0.5-0.7 m. With their help, you can see if there are dips or bulges on the wall and, if necessary, add more glue. Sometimes you have to slightly change the shape of the slab using a special grater.

Useful advice! To ensure that the final result looks aesthetically pleasing, check each laid element using a building level.

The technology of facade insulation with penoplex provides that the elements are fastened to a special glue mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. It is important to use the prepared amount of solution within 1.5 hours if the ambient temperature is not too high. In hot weather, this period is reduced to 40-60 minutes.

Glue is applied to the slab along the edges, as well as in five places in the middle, regardless of the thickness of the penoplex chosen for insulating the walls. This ensures its reliable fastening to the wall surface. If you need to fix the heat-insulating material on a perfectly flat surface, then it is best to use a comb spatula to apply the solution.

If you need to lay not one, but two layers of polystyrene foam, the installation should be done in such a way that the seams do not coincide. In addition, you will need to seal all the cracks between the slabs using small pieces of the same material or its liquid form. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. And if there are any discrepancies between the elements in the places where they should touch, then this can be eliminated using the same grater.

Finally, mechanical fixation of the insulation boards is also carried out to eliminate the risk of their detachment from the surface. At the rate of 5-6 fasteners per sheet, they are secured using disc-shaped dowels.

Technology of insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam

Unlike expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and other popular insulation materials, the technology of spraying polyurethane foam involves a very complex procedure involving the use of expensive equipment. The thing is that in order for the coating to have the desired characteristics and be resistant to external factors, the mixture of solution components must be supplied under very high pressure.

Related article:

The main materials used for vapor barriers, their pros and cons. Features of installing vapor barriers inside and outside a wooden house.

However, such conditions are fully justified by the fact that the service life of such insulation is from 30 to 50 years. In addition, by choosing this option, you can provide your home not only with heat retention, but also with excellent sound insulation, which no other material used for insulation can boast of.

Another quality of polyurethane foam is its ability to take any shape, which makes it convenient to apply to the relief surfaces of walls and beams.

True, it will most likely not be possible to do all the work yourself, since purchasing expensive equipment is more than justified. It is much more rational to invite specialists for this.

Application of polyurethane foam to the external walls of the house is carried out as follows:

at the agreed time, a team of professionals comes to your home in a minibus, inside which is everything necessary equipment, as well as the components necessary for preparing the mixture;
hoses are pulled to the places where spraying will be carried out, through which the finished mixture is supplied;
an even layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the prepared wall surface;
after hardening, all excess is removed and cleaned.

Like any other insulation, polyurethane foam lends itself perfectly to finishing. Using a reinforcing mesh, you can later apply plaster on top. And if you prepare the frame in advance, it is possible to cover it with siding.

Technology of insulating facades with foam plastic: features of fastening the material

Attaching foam elements to the wall is a task that requires attention if a choice is made in favor of this material. You should start by installing vertical canopies made of cord, which will help you position the first element evenly.

According to the technology of insulating a house with foam plastic from the outside, fastening is carried out using a special glue, which is applied to the foam element along the edges, as well as at five points inside. This ensures reliable fixation of the element. Thus, all the insulation is attached. And in order to provide additional strength, you can also use plastic dowels to secure the sheets with them.

The technology for insulating walls outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands is one of the simplest and most common, since this material is often used for a variety of construction work and everyone, one way or another, encountered it in everyday life. So the main task is to correctly select the thickness of the foam for insulating the walls outside a wooden house and securely fasten the material.

Obviously, it is impossible to lay the sheets in such a way as to avoid cracks and gaps. Therefore, they need to be sealed using. The next stage is plastering the surface and laying reinforced mesh. This will protect the wall from the destructive influence of external factors. However, one layer will not be enough; it is necessary to apply at least two layers of ordinary and one decorative plaster to give the building an aesthetic appearance. appearance.

How to insulate a log house yourself from the outside

Rigid tile materials are best suited for insulating timber houses, as they have sufficient density and are not subject to shrinkage over time. It is also important to choose the correct thickness of the insulation. So, for example, for walls 20 cm thick, a layer is enough thin material– 5 cm. And if we are talking about insulating a house made of 150x150 timber from the outside, then it is better to give preference to insulating material 10 cm thick.

It is worth starting work by treating the surfaces with mastic, which repels water. After this, you need to install a wooden frame that will hold the insulation and become the basis for fixing the finishing material.

Useful advice! All elements of the wooden frame must be treated with antiseptic agents that prevent rotting and protect the wood from moisture.

For insulating a house made of timber, basalt wool is best suited, which is attached to the surface of the walls using self-tapping screws. Fasteners should be placed at the rate of 4-6 pieces per 1 m². A diffusion membrane must be laid on top, which acts as a waterproofing agent.

5 cm thick slats are nailed to the wooden frame. Their task is to create a ventilation gap that will not allow moisture to accumulate. And the finishing material is already attached to the slats themselves.

The cost of insulating a façade with different materials can vary greatly. Much depends on how serious the production of a particular insulation requires. And sometimes you have to take into account the need to purchase additional materials, for example, steam and waterproofing layers, if necessary.

For example, the price for facade insulation using polystyrene foam will be about 1600-2000 rubles per 1 m². But this is only if all the work is performed by a professional. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the cost of the most ordinary sheets does not exceed 30 rubles, although it happens that you need a more durable and thick material.

Insulation of the foundation slab: is it necessary?

Another way to insulate a house is to use modern materials for finishing the foundation slab, which, like walls, often becomes a source of freezing of the building and over time can begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.
For many, the need to insulate the foundation slab is also justified by the opportunity to save significantly in the future, spending 1.5-2 times less resources on heating the house.

However, simply purchasing and attaching insulation will not be enough. It is necessary to ensure the full functioning of the system by considering a method for removing moisture and preventing the development of fungi, mold, and corrosive processes inside. This requires precise engineering calculations that will allow the point to be placed outside the contour of the main part of the building.

In addition, one cannot ignore the phenomenon of soil heaving, which is characteristic of the winter period and can create significant pressure on building elements located in the ground. Therefore, among the tasks that are set for the insulating material for the foundation slab is also protection from this kind of mechanical influences.

Restoration and insulation using Swedish technology: features of the method

Insulation of foundation slabs using Swedish technology is one of the best foreign technologies that became available in our area not so long ago. Let's consider what are the advantages of this method and what are its main technologies:

The technique proposes the creation of a single durable structure consisting of reinforced cast concrete equipped with stiffeners. Installation is carried out on a special pillow, which is surrounded on all sides by polystyrene foam slabs;

sand is poured under the bottom of the insulation, as well as on the sides of it;
installation of a special system for collecting and discharging water into the drainage is provided;
in order to reduce the load on drainage system, a blind area is provided;
Inside the house, a heated floor system will be provided, which is built into the foundation at the stage of its construction.

It is interesting that in Sweden this technology has been used for more than half a century, but in Russia it began to be used no more than 10 years ago. But even during this short period, some features of this technology became obvious:

This method is excellent for the construction of one-story and two-story houses. But if we are talking about the construction of tall buildings, then a large number of calculations will be required, as well as permission from all official authorities;
Even at the design stage, care must be taken to eliminate the risk of flooding of the building. For this purpose, sand bedding of the required height is installed. The necessary parameters can be determined by taking into account those statistical data that are considered official for a particular region;

it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the area where construction is taking place and, based on the available data, use standard or enhanced drainage and waterproofing systems;
if construction is to be done on soils in which sand predominates, then there is no need to install a water drainage system;
as in all other cases when it comes to working with concrete, it is recommended to carry out all work in warm time year, since low temperature significantly increases the risk that the resulting structure will not ultimately be strong enough;
Even if a team of specialists is involved in the work, the implementation of this technology takes time. This usually takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Interesting to know! Provided that all insulation work is carried out with high quality and a “warm floor” system is in place, even if the heating is completely turned off, the heat in the house will be maintained for 72 hours.

Choosing the right material for insulating the foundation slab

When deciding to use Swedish technology, you need to understand that not all materials that we are used to using as insulation are suitable for its implementation. First of all, let's look at those that are absolutely not suitable for this purpose:

Mineral wool and all its analogues. Not having sufficient rigidity and strength, they are also prone to absorbing water, which is unacceptable in such operating conditions.
Expanded clay and other granular materials. Their main problem is their inability to form a dense layer around the foundation, which causes them to leak moisture.
Foam polymers, which are created directly on construction sites. And although in this case there is no clear prohibition, such technology requires enormous experience and complex, expensive equipment. Although even the presence of these factors still cannot guarantee success.

Based on all of the above, it becomes obvious that the ideal option for insulating the foundation of a house from the outside is polystyrene foam. Its characteristics fully comply with all the requirements for the material to solve all the tasks.

Among these properties it is worth noting the following:

the standard dimensions of each slab significantly facilitate the process of laying them, allowing calculations to be made based on available data, and ensuring high-quality and even joints;
some manufacturers produce slabs equipped with special grooves on the sides, which additionally ensures the tightness of each joint;
the material is very durable and absolutely impermeable to moisture;
high thermal insulation properties allow for high-quality insulation without laying many layers of material or one, but too thick. One layer of slabs of standard thickness will be sufficient.

You can also insulate the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam, which will further reduce the overall heat loss of the building through the foundation and provide additional savings.

Technology of foundation insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

The process of insulating a foundation slab consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them, paying attention to the nuances of the work, as well as the difficulties that may arise during the installation process.

To carry out this type of work, the use of penoplex with a thickness of 10 cm is considered quite sufficient. The only requirement is that the material must be of high quality and purchased from a reputable manufacturer.

Useful advice! When purchasing any building materials, including polystyrene foam boards, it is better to ask the seller for a certificate for the products offered. Before making a purchase, you must ensure that the product meets all specified standards.

Site preparation involves assessing the existing geological features of the site, as well as the type of soil that will have to be worked with. When digging a hole for the foundation, care must be taken to ensure that the bottom is as level as possible. To do this, at the final stage it is recommended to dig the hole manually.

A layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the pit, which must be compacted. Then temporary formwork is installed and the first layer of concrete is poured. At this stage, the use of any elements for reinforcement has not yet been provided.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, polyurethane foam slabs are laid on top, which are placed in two layers in checkerboard pattern. All joints and seams must be sealed to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting into them. All this is covered on top with a layer of durable plastic film, laying it overlapping and carefully sealing the joints with tape.

All that remains is to fill the main part of the foundation, which requires the presence of reinforcing elements and is carried out according to standard technology. After the concrete has completely hardened, polystyrene foam slabs are attached to all end parts using a special adhesive composition.

As you can see, the technology for insulating the foundation with extruded polystyrene foam is not too complicated if you familiarize yourself in advance with all the requirements for materials, as well as the procedure for carrying out the work.

The fact that external insulation wooden houses significantly outperforms the internal one, and has been proven in practice more than once. Although much, of course, depends on the correct selection of thermal insulation material, and on compliance with all technology requirements. Fortunately, modern market is quite rich and is able to offer customers a wide selection of materials for thermal insulation of wooden houses.

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the advisability of insulation, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? Advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances Doing this kind of work with your own hands will be discussed further.

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Insulation options

Insulating a wooden house from the outside has many advantages:

the dimensions of the internal rooms remain unchanged;
absence of debris and dust indoors;
there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any interior work;
additional protection of the structure from impact environment;
For old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to refine and transform the appearance of the building.

Pay attention! Improper performance of work on insulating a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and rotting of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have firmly established themselves on the market:

Mineral wool.
Foam plastic.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to take into account. A detailed examination of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, insulation features

Mineral wool is compressed particles of artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and is not subject to deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used for insulating the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool can confidently include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate and does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
the material has a high melting point, therefore it is better than many in terms of fire safety.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although they are few:

necessity additional funds protection (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
It is hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier is required.

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, take into account the following tips:

Before insulation, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely eliminate the possibility of moisture penetration into the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then insulation and a layer of waterproofing.
The material must be mounted over half of the previous sheet of material; spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the movement of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Polystyrene foam as insulation

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using polystyrene foam. Externally, it is a collection of a large number of airy, foamed plastic balls. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

simplicity and ease of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is its unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Quite the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transported and adjusted to the required dimensions by cutting. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

The material must be laid end-to-end.
To treat gaps at the joints of polystyrene foam sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface using a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be a minimum of 10 cm wide to ensure complete isolation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the resistance of polystyrene foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Pay attention! Many builders are categorically against using polystyrene foam as a thermal insulator. Because if the work is not organized correctly, it will accelerate the development of fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Insulation with penoplex (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a brother of polystyrene foam. It also has a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but is technically superior to its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
will please you with a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure sun rays. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and other similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to polystyrene foam.

Pay attention! A prerequisite for penoplex insulation is the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

External log house insulation technology

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, step by step:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remaining sharp knife.
Damp walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a sheathing of wooden slats. The pitch between the slats should be 1 m. The lathing should ensure the presence of ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of drops of moisture on the wood with subsequent rotting and damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing felt. Attach the vapor barrier to the slats, and seal the fastening points with tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using 40x100 mm wooden planks. Insulation will be installed in its grooves. Therefore, to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the slats should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
Using a building level, ensure the evenness of the sheathing to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other defects.
Place insulation into the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the “pie” is laying a layer of waterproof and windproof membrane. It must be secured with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with tape to seal them.
The final stage is installation decorative finishing on the facade of the house. Use siding, clapboard, brick or other building materials for these purposes.

Insulating a wooden house from the outside: video instructions in 3 parts

The video shows in detail how the process of insulating a wooden house takes place, the sequential progress of work, marking important points.

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Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - 2 most effective modern technologies

Insulating a wooden house from the outside allows you not only to provide comfortable living conditions, but also to save on heating costs in winter time. However, this procedure must be carried out competently, since a violation of the technology can lead to the walls of the building becoming unusable very quickly. Therefore, below I will tell you in detail how external insulation is performed using two modern technologies.

Insulation of a timber house

Features of insulation

First of all, it should be noted that there are two technologies for external insulation of wooden houses:

hinged (ventilated) facade - the principle of this technology is to install a frame on the walls, which is subsequently covered with siding, lining or other finishing material. The insulation is located in the space between the wall and the finishing material. This technology is the most preferable, since wet work is excluded. In addition, the facade is stronger and more durable;
wet facade– in this case, the walls of the house are covered with insulation, after which they are plastered using a special technology.

Below I will tell you how to properly insulate a house in both cases.

Diagram of the suspended facade

Curtain facade

The installation process of a curtain façade includes several main stages:

Main stages of installation of a curtain façade

Materials

First of all, let's look at how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside using technology curtain façade. To do this you will need the following materials:

Materials	Features and purpose
Insulation	The optimal solution is mineral wool. I must say that people are often interested in whether it is possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam? In principle, the use of polystyrene foam is allowed, however, it should be taken into account that this material is quite flammable, and it does not allow steam to pass through, which will negatively affect the indoor microclimate. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little, but still use mineral wool for these purposes.
Frame stands	As a rule, beams or even boards are used. You can attach them to the wall using metal corners or brackets. It must be said that as an alternative to boards or timber, you can use a profile that is used for installing drywall.
Vapor barrier film	Protects the insulation from getting wet.
Finishing material	This can be lining, block house, siding or any other facade material.
Intercrown insulation	Usually jute tow is used, however, you can fill the gaps with special foam or other suitable materials.
Antiseptic for wood	Protects walls from the negative effects of moisture, rotting and other biological influences.

Mineral mats

You can insulate the basement of your house with penoplex yourself. This material is quite durable, resistant to various negative influences, and also has the property of self-extinguishing in case of fire.

Filling roof gaps at home

Facade preparation

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, do the following: preparatory work:

dismantle all hanging elements that may interfere with work - these are ebbs, canopies, window sills, antennas, etc.;
after this, treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation;
To complete the work, it is necessary to fill all inter-crown cracks with insulation, if any.

You can start insulating a wooden house no less than a year after its construction, so that the structure has time to shrink.

Frame example

Installation of frame insulation

The next stage is installation of the frame. The instructions look like this:

installation of the frame, start with the arrangement ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards about two centimeters thick to the walls. They can be positioned both vertically and horizontally, the main thing is that you can subsequently attach racks to them;
Then the vapor barrier film is attached to the boards with a stapler. It must be overlapped and stretched so that a space is formed between it and the wall. It is advisable to glue the joints of the film with tape. It must be said that the network offers many schemes for insulating walls without a ventilation gap, however, in this case, moisture can accumulate in the space between the wall and the insulation, which leads to negative consequences;
After this, the racks are installed. You should start with the installation of two outer posts, between which ropes are stretched, serving as beacons for the intermediate slats. The outer racks are installed at the same distance from the wall, strictly vertically. If you use boards as racks, then secure them to the walls with metal corners and screws, as shown in the photo above. After this, install intermediate slats, which are located in increments of one or two centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

Laying mineral wool in the space between the posts

Then thermal insulation material should be laid in the space between the racks. The mats must fit tightly to each other and to the racks so that no gaps form in the insulation;

then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. As in the first case, it must be overlapped. You can fix the film using horizontal slats, which will additionally hold the insulation;

This completes the insulation of the facade with your own hands.

Siding installation

Frame covering

The final stage of work is covering the frame. As mentioned above, there are several finishing options. If you don’t know what material is best to cover the facade with, then focus primarily on cost, practicality, individual preferences, etc.

For example, lining is an environmentally friendly material, and it also allows you to maintain the attractive appearance of a wooden house. Vinyl siding is more practical, easy to clean and does not require maintenance.

So, if you decide to use siding for cladding, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

Before attaching the panels to the wall, you need to install a starting profile, which is located horizontally along the perimeter of the house. In this case, you should leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about 10 cm;
then they are installed in the corners of the house corner profiles;
after this, the first row of panels is installed. Bottom part the siding is inserted into the starting profile and attached to the sheathing on top with self-tapping screws;
According to this scheme, the entire house is covered with siding;
Before installing the last panel, the finishing profile should be secured;
At the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

At this point, the siding of the façade is completed. It must be said that the lining is attached approximately according to the same principle, the only thing is that a profile is not used for its installation.

Wet façade design diagram

Wet facade

The installation process of a wet facade includes several main stages:

Preparation of materials

When choosing which insulation is best to insulate walls, in this case it is also better to give preference to mineral wool. Of course, in addition to insulation, you should purchase some other building materials:

glue for mineral wool;
umbrella dowels;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
perforated corners
decorative plaster;
primer;
facade paint.

After preparing all these materials, you can start working.

Gluing mineral mats to the wall

Wall insulation

As in the previous case, work begins with preparing the facade. This procedure is performed according to the scheme described above.

Then the walls are covered with mineral wool for plaster:

First of all, you should prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package;
then apply the glue to the mineral mats using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, the mortar should be applied with “blobs”, which will allow you to adjust the position of the slabs relative to the wall.

Applying glue to mineral wool

When gluing the mats, use a building level, and also stretch the beacons so that all the slabs in each row are located in the same plane;

All walls of the house are covered using this principle;
then the mineral wool is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels. To do this, drill holes in the wall directly through the insulation and hammer the dowels into them. Umbrella hats should be slightly recessed;

Installation of dowels

After this, you need to cover the window openings with mineral wool. This procedure is reminiscent of installing slopes - cut the cotton wool into panels of the required size and cover the openings with them. Dowels are usually not installed on window slopes, but they must be installed on door slopes.
then you need to check the quality of the work performed by applying the rule to different sections of the walls. If there are bumps on the wall, they can be removed using a special grater;
then glue the perforated corners onto all the outer corners, using the same glue;
To complete the work, coat all the dowel heads with glue so that the facade ends up with a smooth surface.

When working with mineral wool, use personal protective equipment, as it causes irritation when it comes into contact with the skin.

In the photo - gluing the mesh to mineral wool

Reinforcement

The next stage is reinforcement. Essentially, this is rough plastering. It is carried out in the following sequence:

Prepare the mesh by cutting it into sheets of the desired size. Please note that on the wall it should overlap by about 10 cm;
then cut the canvas for the slopes;
Next, glue the mesh to the slopes. To do this, the glue should be applied in an even layer a few millimeters thick on the surface of the mineral wool, and then immediately apply the mesh. To “drown” the mesh in the solution, run a spatula over it from above, as shown in the photo above;
after reinforcing the slopes, the mesh is glued to the walls using the same principle;
After the surface has dried, the glue is applied again in a uniform thin layer. In this case, use a wide spatula to eliminate all existing unevenness on the surface of the walls. This procedure is performed on the same principle as puttying.

People often ask on forums how best to insulate an old wooden house? If the structure has lost its geometry, then brick cladding would be the best choice. At the same time, between facing wall and mineral mats are laid on wooden walls.

Application of decorative plaster

Decorative plastering is much easier and faster than reinforcement. The main thing is to follow a certain sequence of actions:

First of all, you need to treat the surface of the wall with a primer. To do this, pour the liquid into a tray and then apply it to the wall with a paint roller. To achieve maximum effect, the primer is applied in two layers;
Next, prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package;
then decorative plaster should be applied to the walls with a small or wide spatula. The layer should be as thin as possible;
when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it should be rubbed with a trowel, making circular or reciprocating movements with your hand. This will create a specific pattern.

It must be said that applying decorative plaster within one wall must be done in one go, otherwise the boundary along which you interrupted the work will not be visible on the wall.

Facade painting

Painting

Painting is also a simple and quick procedure:

start work by preparing the paint - the composition should be stirred and, if necessary, tinted;
then pour paint into the paint roller tray;
after that, dip the roller in the paint, squeeze it lightly on a special platform in the bath, and treat the wall with it;
Use a paint brush to touch up hard-to-reach areas;
After the wall surface has dried, apply a second layer of paint.

Conclusion

Insulating a wooden house from the outside, as we found out, can be done in two ways. However, in any case, in order to achieve a high-quality result, you must strictly follow the instructions outlined above.

See the video in this article for more information. If you encounter any difficulties during the work, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you.

Subscribe to our channel in Telegram September 4, 2016 If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

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obustroeno.com

Insulating wooden houses from the outside - 2 simple and effective ways

At all times, wooden houses and log cabins are considered the most warm views individual housing, because natural wood, due to its porous internal structure, has high thermal insulation properties. However, despite this, constant heating of a large wooden house throughout the winter period entails quite large expenses, especially considering that the price of natural gas and electricity is constantly increasing. Therefore, insulating wooden houses from the outside has now become very important.

In order to reduce heating costs and ensure a comfortable temperature inside your home, regardless of weather conditions, many owners of wooden houses resort to insulating the external facade of the building using modern heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house

Features of external thermal insulation of a wooden house

In addition to energy-saving functions, such insulation of a wooden house from the outside under plaster helps protect the surface of the wood from the harmful effects of weather factors, and allows you to finish the building with any facade paints for exterior work.

In order for the reader to be able to independently understand all the features of performing such work, this article will consider detailed instructions, which indicate the main aspects of self-insulation of log cabins and frame-panel houses made of wood.

The diagram shows how to insulate a house made of timber

Selection of thermal insulation material

The energy-saving properties of log walls, as well as the durability and safety of wood will largely depend on the right choice heat-insulating materials and competent implementation of all technological stages of this process. In most cases, the technology for insulating a wooden house from the outside involves the use of mineral wool panels, as well as slabs of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) or polystyrene foam.

EPS and foam panels have high thermal insulation properties, do not absorb moisture and are not blown away by the wind, while EPS is much more expensive than conventional sheet foam.

Foam boards

The use of rigid foam plastic panels significantly simplifies the work of insulation and exterior finishing of a wooden house, and also does not require the installation of additional sheathing. At the same time, polystyrene foam does not allow air and water vapor to pass through, which can lead to the formation of condensation on a wooden facade; moreover, polystyrene foam is flammable and can be eaten by mice, rats or other rodents.
Rigid mats and slabs made of mineral wool are free of such disadvantages; they have high thermal insulation ability, allow air and water vapor to pass out well, ensuring normal ventilation wooden facade, do not rot and do not contribute to the development of mold, and are also not used as housing by rodents and insect pests.
The main disadvantage of using mineral wool for these purposes is the more complex installation process, which requires the preliminary installation of wooden sheathing, as well as the use of steam and waterproofing materials.

Using a special glue, the foam boards must be glued to the facade in such a way that their joints are not on the same line, but are staggered.
After the adhesive solution has dried, it is necessary to additionally secure each panel in five places (in the corners and in the center) using long galvanized self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers.

Polyurethane adhesive for foam plastic

If large gaps or cracks occur at the joints of the panels, they need to be sealed with narrow strips of polystyrene foam or blown out with foam.
Thus, the entire facade should be sewn up, after which the material for insulating the wooden house outside should be coated with a special construction glue, and then cover it with fiberglass reinforcing mesh.
After the glue has hardened and dried, the walls must be plastered and painted with facade paint for exterior use in any suitable color.

Installing the first insulation board on the starting profile

Please note! In most cases, insulating the base of a wooden house from the outside using polystyrene foam is done in a similar way, however, after gluing the reinforcing mesh, it must be coated with a layer of sand-cement mortar, which should be about 20 millimeters thick.

Method 2. Mineral wool insulation technology

In order to properly insulate the outside of a wooden house with panels made of mineral or basalt wool, you must first install vertical and horizontal sheathing made of timber or galvanized profiles, the cross-section of which should be equal to the thickness of one layer of thermal insulation.

First of all, the entire area of the facade must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane, after which vertical bars must be secured from the roof to the base, keeping the distance between them 22-32 mm less than the width of the insulation.
The resulting vertical openings between the bars must be filled with mineral wool, without leaving air gaps between the plates.

Installation of wooden sheathing

In a similar way, horizontal beams must be nailed to the vertical sheathing, after which the space between them must also be closely filled with insulation boards.
After installation, the insulation for a wooden house from the outside must be covered with a special waterproofing film with micropores, which freely allows water vapor and air to pass from inside to outside and prevents the return of water.
Finally, finishing material is attached to the wooden frame. Most often, metal or plastic siding or plastic panels imitating various building materials are used for these purposes.

Finishing exterior wall siding

Pay attention! To increase durability and protect against rotting, all vertical and horizontal sheathing bars, as well as others wooden elements structures, before installation they must be treated twice with antiseptic and antifungal impregnation.

Conclusion

Mineral wool can absorb moisture, which will lead to a decrease in its thermal insulation properties, therefore, when independently insulating a wooden house using this material, you need to leave small gaps in the lower and upper parts of the facade necessary for free air circulation.

To study in detail the technology for performing such work, it is recommended to watch the attached video in this article, or read similar articles that can be found on this site. If the reader has any comments or questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

stroimsamydom.ru

Insulating a wooden house: step-by-step instructions

Recently, a trend has become more and more clearly visible - people, in an effort to get closer to nature, are moving from urban high-rise buildings to private wooden cottages. Downshifting is explained not only by fashion and a subconscious craving for the natural and natural, but also by a well-founded desire to live in a healthy atmosphere. It is known that wood is a natural heat insulator, but this does not mean that a house built from this material does not need insulation. Today we will talk about how to insulate a wooden private house with your own hands from the outside and inside.

Selection of materials

The practice of building houses from wood goes back thousands of years, and previously people used exclusively for insulation. natural materials: tow, moss, straw, etc. Unlike old, solid buildings made of solid logs, modern wooden cottages are lightweight and require thorough insulation. The best option, according to all experts, is external insulation, but in some cases internal insulation is also acceptable. In any case, it is necessary to conduct research and identify which areas require special attention. So, if the house is on stilts, drafts will constantly flow along the uninsulated floor, but if the foundation is of a different type, you need to insulate the foundation of a wooden house with your own hands, otherwise up to 40-50% of the heat will escape through it.

The second area that requires the closest attention is the roof - up to 50-60% of heated air can escape through it. The article “Do-it-yourself roof insulation” will help you with this. And finally, the walls of the house occupy the largest area, and are also subject to wind loads, and their insulation cannot be neglected. Thus, several stages of work can be distinguished: insulation of the floor, roof and walls. To save money, you can use old proven “old-fashioned” caulking methods using sawdust mixed with earth or clay, moss, jute, hemp, and tow. The floor can be insulated with expanded clay or ecowool.

To qualitatively insulate a wooden house with your own hands, you can use any materials, but it is advisable to focus on their naturalness, otherwise the whole point environmental safety home will be lost. Also, in wooden houses there is a high risk of rodents, so it is better if the insulation is strong enough or “tasteless” for mice. Also, it should not interfere with steam exchange, otherwise the wood will begin to rot and rot. Also, do not forget about fire safety. Taking into account all the above requirements, it turns out that a wooden house can be insulated with ecowool or stone wool, expanded clay or sawdust. It is better not to use polystyrene foam and its derivatives such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, since they are not environmentally friendly and do not allow water vapor to pass through.

Insulation technology

Insulation of a wooden house is necessary not only to maintain a comfortable microclimate inside and save fuel (electricity), but also to extend the life of interior coatings, furniture and structures that form the house itself. So, if there are constant changes in temperature and humidity inside, the wooden elements will contract and expand, begin to rot and deteriorate much earlier than expected. To prevent this, first of all you need to pay attention to the places with the greatest heat loss: the floor and roof.

Insulation from outside

Before you insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands, you need to prepare all the tools and materials. If the house is two- or three-story, one step ladder will not be enough - you need to build scaffolding. It is optimal to use stone wool as insulation, since it copes with its task perfectly, is not susceptible to damage by rodents and does not interfere with the microcirculation of moisture. The obvious advantage of the material is its non-flammability and easy installation.

How to insulate a wooden house with your own hands (with video):

To summarize the video instructions on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands:

Helpful advice: In most cases, to insulate wooden houses from the outside they use mineral wool slabs 5 cm thick. The beams from which the sheathing will be built should be approximately the same thickness (preferably exactly the same).

Insulation from the inside

Before telling you how to insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands, I would like to note that this method is undesirable and can only be used in cases where external insulation is unacceptable for some reason. Internal insulation is inconvenient not only because it takes away the usable area of the walls, but also because it moves the dew point inside the sheathing. This means that a wall that is not insulated from the outside begins to freeze, the cold moves deeper inside, and when it encounters back side insulation attached to the inside of the house, condensation appears due to temperature differences.

It is much easier to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands, the floor or the foundation. To do this, you do not need special equipment, and it is more convenient to work inside than outside (you can do this in any weather).

There are several thermal insulation techniques for interior walls at home, depending on the insulation used:

Warm seam - this sealing of seams and joints is used in cases where the inner surface of a wooden wall will be preserved in its original form, that is, without finishing with decorative plaster and other materials. A warm seam significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the masonry. Synthetic sealants based on silicone, rubber, latex or acrylic, as well as traditional materials such as flax wool, tow, and linen cord can be used as insulation. Such insulation can be easily done with your own hands without special skills; it does not disturb the natural attractiveness wood masonry, does not interfere with microcirculation of air and moisture indoors. It is also impossible not to note the economic benefits with fairly high efficiency indicators.
Mineral wool - this material is suitable for both external and internal insulation of walls, ceilings, beams and floors of a wooden house. First, you need to seal all the cracks in the wall with sealant and treat the surface with an antiseptic, then build the lathing as described above, and proceed in the same way until the finishing touches. In this case, you will need several other materials: wood panels, lining, drywall, plaster, etc.
Polystyrene foam - this material is very rarely used for insulating wooden houses, since it does not allow steam to pass through, which inevitably leads to the formation of condensation inside the wall. However, if you properly organize the hydro- and vapor barrier layers, this technology will completely protect the house from frost and allow you to save money, since the foam itself is very inexpensive. Working with it is easy and simple, and the low thermal conductivity with a small thickness of the material makes it possible not to sacrifice free space for the benefit of insulation, as is the case with mineral wool.
Sprayed thermal insulation is a relatively new method of insulating walls from the inside and outside. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to do this yourself, since applying (spraying) heat-insulating material onto the wall requires special equipment. The result is an absolutely seamless coating that does not allow moisture or cold to pass through, but does not interfere with vapor exchange.

To insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands, you can use the same mineral wool in slabs, expanded polystyrene or bulk materials (expanded clay, vermiculite). To do this, logs from beams of at least 50x50 mm are installed on the subfloor, waterproofing material (roofing felt or construction polyethylene) is laid on top of them, after which insulation is laid. Waterproofing is again laid on top and covered with boards or plywood, after which they begin finishing (laying parquet, laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.).

Insulating a wooden house means not just attaching thermal insulation material to its walls, floor and roof, but carrying out a whole range of work related to arranging a comfortable microclimate inside. All this will ultimately affect not only the well-being of the residents, but will also affect the life of the building itself. That is why it is necessary to carefully select materials and strictly adhere to the chosen insulation technology.

Wood is a material widely used in construction due to its many advantages. The popularity of building structures and wood finishing is ensured by the environmental friendliness, strength and low thermal conductivity of wood, so wooden houses in the suburbs and rural areas, built using modern technologies, do not look like anachronisms to this day - they are durable, beautiful, and provide comfortable temperature regime it is easier in them than in stone buildings.

Private house made of wood

However, due to the impact on the building envelope unfavorable factors— changes in temperature, humidity, and microorganisms cause wood to dry out, rot, become deformed, and over time increasingly lose its positive characteristics, including thermal insulation properties.

If you insulate a wooden house, and perform the operation in a timely and correct manner, this will not only protect the walls of the log house and extend its service life, but will also reduce heating costs by reducing heat loss, and also improve the microclimate in the home. Let's look at how best to do this, including doing it yourself.

Features of insulation of a wooden house

Wood is a unique material that has the property of “breathing,” and the intensity of this “breathing” (vapor permeability) along and across the fibers is different. The maximum vapor permeability coefficient of wood is along the fibers, the minimum is across. This characteristic also depends on the type of wood.

According to the classification according to SP 23-101-2004, including the recommendations of clause 8.11, the walls of a wooden house on which insulation is performed are two-layer structures, so their insulation is carried out from the outside:

Excerpt from SP 23-101-2004

Criteria for the suitability of a material for insulating a wooden house

To meet the requirements building regulations, the sequence of layers should not only prevent the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the enclosing structure, but also promote its evaporation/weathering. Therefore, the vapor permeability of each layer is important.

Important! To prevent the multilayer enclosing structure from getting wet, the vapor permeability of the materials in its layers should increase in the direction “from the inside to the outside.”

Treated logs or beams have a surface, most of which consists of fiber cuts. The vapor permeability across the fibers of such products is higher than that of untreated products, but to a certain depth.

For clarity, let’s put building materials that have thermal insulation properties into a comparative table and arrange them after wood in descending order of vapor permeability coefficient:

Material	Density	Vapor permeability mg/m h Pa
Wood (pine, spruce) across/along the grain
Mineral wool
PVC foam (marking “1”)
Expanded clay concrete
Autoclaved aerated concrete D500
Hollow Clay Brick
Solid clay/sand-lime brick
Penoplex
Polyurethane foam
Expanded polystyrene
Ruberoid, glassine
Polyurethane mastic
Polyethylene

Conclusion - of the listed insulation materials, mineral wool has the optimal degree of vapor permeability.

The vapor permeability coefficient of polystyrene foam is low, but despite this, the use of polystyrene foam as insulation for wooden houses is not prohibited by standards. The same applies to penoplex, which is superior to polystyrene foam in terms of strength characteristics, but also has low vapor permeability.

Materials used for insulating wooden walls

Having highlighted two groups of insulating materials suitable for insulating wooden structures, we will consider the degree of suitability of each isolate - this will allow us to better understand than specifically and for what reason installation technology insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Mineral wool insulation

This group of thermal insulation materials includes the following insulators:

stone wool;
slag wool;
glass wool;
ecowool.

Stone (basalt) wool – a non-flammable, heat-resistant fibrous material in the form of slabs or mats, made from rocks and withstanding heating up to 600 0 C. The basalt fibers of the insulation are bonded together with formaldehyde resins, and to reduce hygroscopicity the insulating material is treated with a hydrophobic composition. Improved Views stone wool Available with foil, fiberglass or kraft paper coating. The feasibility of using basalt wool as insulation for wooden houses is determined by its low thermal conductivity, high vapor permeability and resistance to microorganisms, and the significant rigidity of the mats with low weight makes it the best option when choosing a mineral wool insulator.

Important! Stone wool fibers are elastic and, unlike glass wool, do not cause skin irritation, but installation of this material must still be done using personal protective equipment (respirator, safety glasses and clothing).

Stone wool

The disadvantage of basalt wool is its high cost relative to other insulation materials in the group.

Slag wool – a thermal insulator produced from waste from the metallurgical industry, produced in the form of plates and rolls, often with foil on one side. The thermal insulation characteristics of slag wool are worse than those of the previous insulating material, and its maximum heat resistance is 300 0 C, but at a price it is a widely available material that is a good noise insulator and repels rodents.

Important! Serious disadvantages of slag wool are hygroscopicity and the release of sulfurous acid compounds when wet, which has a destructive effect on wood.

Slag wool

Due to these disadvantages, slag wool is the least preferred material from the group of insulating materials under consideration for wood insulation.

Glass wool - long-fiber insulation with low specific gravity, produced from a molten mixture of broken glass with limestone and borax. Available in rolls and sheets, foil and with a reinforcing fiberglass coating. The significant length of the fibers (15-50 mm) provides glass wool with superiority over other types mineral wool insulation in elasticity, resilience and tensile strength.

Glass wool is non-flammable, heat-resistant (withstands up to 450 0 C), vapor-permeable, resistant to chemicals and has high thermal insulation characteristics. When wet, the material loses its heat-protective properties and takes a long time to dry, therefore, like other insulation materials in the group under consideration, it requires water protection.

The main disadvantage of glass wool is the difficulty of working with it, due to the fragility and thorniness of the fibers, which penetrate through ordinary clothing and are dangerous to the respiratory tract, eyes and skin.

Conventional sheet and roll foil glass wool

A comparison table will help you make a choice between slag and glass wool:

A comparison of characteristics reveals the preference for using glass wool, but this does not take into account the possibility of using basalt thermal protection, which is the best option.

Ecowool – insulation produced from paper industry waste, consisting of natural cellulose (80%) with the addition of fire retardants, which provide the ability to absorb and evaporate moisture without compromising the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. The insulating agent also contains antiseptics and insecticides that protect the insulation from insects, rodents and microorganisms.

Ecowool is produced in the form of a dry, loose mass of light gray color, packaged in bags, which is applied to the base using special compressor equipment.

Despite a number of significant advantages (high thermal insulation properties, sound and vibration absorption, environmental friendliness), the popularity of this insulation due to the complexity and high cost of mechanical application is low. Manual installation is labor-intensive, time-consuming and less effective.

Solid polymer insulation

Considering the low vapor permeability of these polymers, wood finished with them on the outside will not “breathe”, as a result of which it will begin to become damp and rot. Accordingly, to prevent these processes, special attention will have to be paid to the ventilation of interior spaces and their finishing materials, which entails considerable additional costs, both during arrangement and during operation.

Thus, the use of foam plastics on wooden structures from the outside is impractical; light floors interfloor wooden beams do not need insulation at all. But concrete slabs need thermal protection, stone plinths wooden houses, and solid polymers with their high thermal insulation characteristics will effectively provide it.

From sheet polymer thermal insulation materials for insulation concrete structures wooden houses are most popular:

expanded polystyrene;
penoplex;
PVC foam.

Expanded polystyrene - one of the many types of foam plastic, often called that in everyday life. It has high thermal insulation characteristics, is lightweight, easy to process, cheap, but at the same time fragile, flammable and vapor-tight.

Expanded polystyrene (one of the foams)

In addition, the structure of this insulating material consists of closed balls, the cavities between which are accessible for water penetration. The moisture accumulated in the foam not only has a negative effect on the structures finished with it, but also, when freezing, destroys the insulating shell itself. Accordingly, these shortcomings require additional, compensating types of work and impose restrictions on the areas of use of expanded polystyrene.

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam ) - advanced foam plastic, dense and solid insulation, thanks to high performance widely used in civil and industrial construction.

The operating temperature range of penoplex is wide (from -50 to +75 0 C) and depends on the density of a specific grade of material applied to sheets in the form of the letters “K”, “C”, “F”, “Comfort”, “45”. For insulation of wooden walls, insulation marked “C” (wall) and “Comfort” (universal) is intended.

Important! You should not use penoplex with a density of less than 25 kg/m3 - such material will be porous, loose and short-lived.

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex is resistant to mechanical stress and moisture, which makes it more expensive than polystyrene foam, but this material also has low vapor permeability.

In turn, penoplex has two improved varieties - “Technoplex” and “Polyspen”, differing in strength characteristics and vapor permeability.

"Technoplex" and "Polyspen"

For use in residential premises, both types are used, but with the marking “35”.

PVC foam – a closed-cell material based on polyvinyl chloride, produced by pressing and having the best vapor permeability in the group of solid polymer insulation. The strength of PVC foam is superior to penoplex, which allows it to be used as construction material, but does not create difficulties when processing with hand or mechanical tools.

Foam plastic PVC-1

Gasoline-oil resistance, low water absorption (less than 4%), a wide range of operating temperatures (from -60 to +60 0 C), self-extinguishing ability and high biostability, combined with the previously listed advantages, determine the high cost of PVC foam, which hinders its popularity. In addition, this self-extinguishing insulator, surrounded by a flame, still burns, and with suffocating smoke - the hydrogen chloride released during combustion combines with moisture to form hydrochloric acid.

Methods of external thermal protection of a wooden house

Insulation of wooden buildings is carried out in two ways:

under the “wet” façade;
under the hinged (ventilated) façade.

The choice of method for insulating wooden walls from the outside depends on the cross-section of the crowns (log or timber) and the technology for subsequent external wall cladding.

"Wet" facade is called the finishing of insulated walls by applying construction and decorative solutions to the insulation, in which no gap is provided between the thermal protection layer and the finishing cladding. With this method, the thermal protection shell is loaded with plaster and decorative coatings, so it is attached to the wall by gluing over the entire area. The base for such fixation of the insulating material must be level, therefore, under the “wet” facade, insulation is carried out for houses made of beams.

Ventilated facade implies the presence of an air gap between the outer cladding and the insulation layer, which is achieved by installing a frame system on the wall, consisting of sheathing, counter-lattice and fastening elements. In this case, the load from exterior finishing carries a frame, the installation of which is possible on a wall of any profile.

Frames for ventilated facades – wooden and metal

Important! With any method of external insulation of wooden walls, plastic mushrooms with steel screw-in cores are used to fasten the thermal protection.

Insulation device for a “wet” façade

Laying insulation on a wooden base for this type of exterior finishing differs from a similar operation on a stone wall only in the technology of base preparation and fastener elements.

A period of stable dry weather is selected to carry out the work.

First of all, the walls are cleaned of dirt, dust, moss and inspected for damage by wood-boring beetles.

Cleaning crowns with a power tool with an abrasive attachment

Important! If the wood has traces of the presence of a borer beetle, the house cannot be insulated - the inaccessibility of the structures will accelerate their destruction due to the impossibility of periodic disinfestation.

The cleaned bases are coated with an antiseptic twice at intervals per day; this is done especially carefully according to lower crowns, corners and ends of logs.

After one or two days of drying the walls, the cracks in the logs and the gaps between the crowns are tightly caulked and filled with sealant.

Cracks in logs and their repair

Stone wool mats are glued tightly to each other on the walls using an elastic composition for wood and secured to the base with dowels with steel rods. The effective thickness of the insulation should be at least 10-15 cm.

Then a thin layer of cement leveling mixture is applied over the insulation with a spatula. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the hardened shell, followed by applying a primer with a brush.

Plastering and finishing painting are performed on top of the dried primer.

Important! The use of acrylic-based leveling solutions and paints on wooden walls is not compatible with the high vapor permeability of wood.

Due to the dynamic surface of wood bases, a “wet” façade is not always best solution for insulating a wooden house, since the plaster layer is a fairly static, rigid shell.

Thermal insulation device for a ventilated facade

A vertical sheathing of wooden blocks with a cross-section equal to the thickness of the insulation is attached to dry walls treated with an antiseptic. The pitch of the bars is 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation - this will allow the mats to be laid tightly, opposite each other.

Inner row of sheathing bars

On top of the bars, after laying the thermal protection in the niches between them, a windproof, vapor-permeable membrane is stapled - placing the strips horizontally, with the porous surface inward, gluing the seams with tape. Then a counter-lattice is installed over the film - a frame for the ventilation gap made of vertical wooden blocks at least 5 cm thick, placed on the lower planks and attached to them with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure of vertical connections is the basis for installing the finishing cladding - vinyl siding, lining, block house, etc.

The outer row of sheathing bars and clapboard cladding of a wooden house

Watching this video will add clarity to the idea of insulating a wooden house:

Using the same methods, but after glazing, you can insulate the wooden walls of a terrace or veranda, turning them into a cozy shelter in winter.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Considering that the thermal protection layer on wooden bases should be 10-15 cm, the total loss of useful volume of housing after insulation from the inside will be significant. Therefore, in the topic of internal thermal protection, it is more appropriate to consider what is better to sheathe the inside of the house Not wooden walls, and concrete floors between floors and above the basement, as well as the floor in the basement.

It is much easier to thermally insulate slabs from the floor side than to install insulating material on the ceiling of the room below. But in order to withstand mechanical loads, the floor insulation must be sufficiently solid or topped with a reinforced concrete screed. And here the best option for heat-protective material is not mineral wool, but extruded foam.

Waterproofing is installed on the cleaned and leveled floor, on top of which foam sheets adjusted to size are laid end-to-end. The strength of this material allows us to limit ourselves to the subsequent installation of a leveling screed 3 cm thick, on which the ceramic tiles or other finishing floor covering.

By insulating the floors of the basement, first and second floors, as well as the attic floor, the task of thermal insulation of wooden housing from the inside will be almost completed, since window blocks and double-glazed windows also play an important role in reducing heat loss.

Conclusion

External thermal insulation of a wooden house is not a whim or a tribute to fashion. If done correctly, it will not give you a reason to regret the costs - a significant increase in the durability of housing made from expensive natural material is worth it.

The main point of the article

Wood is a natural building material, which also has thermal insulation properties, therefore wood construction still popular today.
To extend the service life of log houses and slow down the loss of wood of its unique qualities, wooden structures must be insulated. The best way to insulate a wooden house is to protect it from the outside, and the best material– basalt wool. Foam plastics are not suitable for arranging wood structures, but are in demand for external thermal insulation of plinths and interior flooring.
“Wet” and ventilated facades are two designs used today that provide thermal protection for wooden walls, but the second version is more “tailored” to the physical characteristics of wood.
The insulation of wooden houses from the inside should be understood as the installation of thermal insulation of concrete slabs of interfloor ceilings.

Wooden house - insulation

Insulating the walls of a wooden house from the outside - important task for many homeowners in our country. Wooden house - traditional home inhabitant of all-Russian open spaces. Wood is a very good construction material with high energy saving and thermal efficiency. A house made of logs with a diameter of about 30 cm can easily withstand Siberian frosts and severe winds, but in addition to the heat-saving qualities of wood, the hut must be insulated. In ancient times, natural material was used for this, which is accessible and inexpensive. For this, moss, tow, and straw were dried.

Method of insulating joints in a hut

Insulation for the wooden exterior walls of a house had a direct practical meaning, because the less heat is lost, the less the stove needs to be fired up.

In addition to the walls, the floors and roof, windows and doors were insulated. Today wooden houses are no less popular than in past years. There are a great variety of constructive construction methods. In this case, various types of wood processing and methods of insulating wooden houses are used.

Modern technologies make it possible to solve the problem of heat conservation relatively inexpensively and significantly reduce maintenance and heating costs. A well-insulated wooden house requires less investment in ongoing repairs and maintenance.

Methods for insulating walls of wooden houses

There are several methods for insulating walls from the outside. This is done both with their own hands and with the involvement of specialists who practice modern technologies for wooden houses. It is important not to make a mistake and choose the right thermal insulation for walls, materials for vapor and waterproofing, prepare the wall with outside for mounting a frame under insulation or fastening a heat insulator directly to the wall.

Any homeowner wonders how to properly insulate outside walls. At the same time, we must not forget that it is necessary to use external insulation, and not internally.

There are a number of good reasons for this:

internal insulation reduces the usable area of the house,
the dew point moves inside the wooden wall, which leads to moisture accumulation in the walls and rotting,
walls saturated with moisture freeze, and only the interior of the house remains insulated,
By using non-vapor-transparent thermal insulation (extruded polystyrene foam), a greenhouse effect is created inside the house

When considering wall insulation, it is assumed that the roof or ceiling and floors are well insulated and insulated from moisture penetration. Improperly performed floor insulation reduces even high-quality insulation of external walls to zero.

When using insulation such as expanded polystyrene or ordinary polystyrene, it must be taken into account that mice often live in it, and with their burrows and passages they violate the thermal and waterproofing. This can lead not only to heat loss, but also to rot and destruction of structural elements.

Preparing the wall for installing insulation from the outside

Before thermal insulation, you need to prepare the walls for installing insulation from the outside:

inspect the walls for the presence of holes, cracks, cracks, if found, caulk or foam with regular foam, and then level,
antisepticize the wall surface with a special composition that prevents rotting and retards combustion,
check all electrical wiring passing through external walls, ensure access to it in such a way as not to damage the insulation,
level the walls, setting a plane with minimal deviations for installing insulation, with an ordinary ax or with a plane or roughing tool,
level and seal window and door slopes from the outside.

Considering that wood is vapor-transparent and has the ability to absorb and release moisture, it is better to use natural, environmentally friendly and non-flammable insulation materials for insulation: basalt or mineral slabs, glass wool. The insulation can also be in rolls.

Installation of natural insulation on the walls of a wooden house

Eco and stone wool are very good insulation materials for walls. They allow the wood to breathe and maintain durability. The technology for installing external insulation of the walls of timber and log houses is similar. First, a vapor barrier membrane is installed on the prepared wall surface; it is advisable to use those types that allow moisture vapor to escape from inside the house, but do not allow cold air to penetrate from the outside and protect against condensation.

Then the slabs are installed. The installation method depends on the subsequent exterior finishing Houses. In most cases, to facilitate the installation of insulation, a sheathing of wooden beam or aluminum profile. The guides are mounted on the wall strictly vertically, fastened with wood screws, and crossbars are made between them. The parameters of the sheathing cells are slightly smaller than the insulation boards by 2-3 cm for dense installation.

To prevent the insulation boards from slipping, they are secured with special plastic dowels using fungi. If the insulation is rolled, the crossbars are installed in smaller increments or not installed at all.

The dimensions of the lathing depend on the thickness of the insulation and the number of layers. As a rule, they are multiples of 5 cm. When there are more than one layers of insulation, it is advisable to make a double sheathing with an offset to avoid cold penetration through the cracks. It all depends on the temperature regime of the area where the insulated house is located, the thickness of the wooden walls and the heat-shielding properties of the insulation.

After installing the insulation into the sheathing, it is necessary to cover it with a waterproofing membrane to protect it from external moisture and blowing.

The membrane is stapled to a wooden sheathing; it is advisable to overlap at least 15 cm and avoid sagging and cracks.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out from the bottom up so that the top layer overlaps the bottom and prevents moisture from flowing in.

Insulation made from mineral wool or glass wool greatly loses its effectiveness when wet.

You can see how the insulation is installed by watching the video :

An important point is the removal of moisture from the waterproofing. Considering that the vapors leaving the house through the vapor-transparent walls and insulation, when faced with cold air, condense and flow down the protective waterproofing, it is necessary to provide them with unhindered exit to the outside below. To do this, gaps are left in the outer sheathing to allow moisture to escape and blow through. At the junction of the wall and roof vault, it is also necessary to leave gaps for air circulation or install ventilation grilles.

After installing the waterproofing, the exterior finishing is made from lining, planed boards, panels or siding. All natural exterior wood materials must be antiseptic and covered with a protective layer of paint or varnish.

The use of polystyrene foam and penoplex

In addition to mineral or stone wool, a wooden house is insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

Polystyrene foam is a fairly cheap and energy-efficient material, but it has many disadvantages: it is afraid of moisture, not vapor-transparent, flammable, and fragile.

Its use requires careful protection from moisture penetration, additional ventilation in the house to avoid greenhouse effect and excess humidity. When attaching foam plastic to the wall of a house, glue and the same plastic mushrooms are used as when installing mineral slabs. The joints between the foam layers must be foamed.

You need to use foam plastic with a density of at least 15 kg/m3, and it is better to use special facade modifications from 25 kg/m3.

Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is much more effective than polystyrene foam; it is moisture resistant, has increased moisture resistance and provides good thermal protection, but is also flammable and not vapor-transparent.

Polystyrene foam and penoplex are often used when choosing a “wet facade” as an external finish. The production method is as follows: a combined special adhesive composition with a reinforcing facade mesh is applied to the mounted and leveled insulation boards, creating a durable protective surface over the insulation.

It is necessary to install paint corners in the corners before applying the adhesive. When applied, it levels and rubs in like plaster. After drying, a decorative coating of various structures and colors is applied on top.

Depending on the taste of the home owner or design solution apply decorative elements: moldings, window frames, cornices.

The owner of the house can carry out all the above methods of insulation independently. This does not require special knowledge, skills and tools, except for accuracy and compliance with a number of the mentioned features of each of the insulation materials. Careful adjustment of insulation boards and proper installation of protective membranes will ensure reliable insulation and comfort in the house in any weather. After all, a well-insulated house stays cool for a long time even in extreme heat.

Comparison of the characteristics of thermal insulation building materials

Another question that always arises before insulating the walls of a house is what thickness and density the insulation should be, how to choose the right one and not make a mistake. Great value depends on what profile the house is built from and its thermal insulation properties without insulation. If a house is built in Siberia with thin walls, then it is necessary to apply the most effective thermal protection against possible freezing. But it is better to focus on the properties of the insulation and its energy-efficient qualities.

Analogy of wall thickness made of various building materials.

It is simpler and clearer for most homeowners to proceed from the practical degree of heat sufficiency for a certain thickness of the walls of the house in each individual region of our country.

It’s good when the house is warm and comfortable, this is especially true for owners of private houses. The issue of insulating houses is often of interest to residents of rural areas; most of them live in wooden buildings.

If you start to tidy up an old wooden house, then you definitely need to start insulating it. There are also new houses made of timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after the completion of construction work. With thermal insulation, a logical question immediately arises: what material to use and how the insulation of wooden houses occurs.

Log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly; they are cool in summer and warm in winter; a normal level of humidity is always felt. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation so that living in them is always as comfortable as possible and heat loss is kept to a minimum.

Most of the heat in wooden houses is lost through the roof, up to about 40%, through windows up to 35% can be lost, walls take about 10%, and floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that a lot of money is spent on heating the home during the cold period, but there is still no comfortable temperature for the family to live.

Properly selected means for thermal insulation normalize the temperature in a home, including a wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate houses outside and inside. For greater efficiency, professionals recommend making thermal insulation on the outside of the building so that you can live in it comfortably throughout the year.

Material selection

The most suitable option for insulating wooden houses is mineral wool, it has everything necessary qualities- lightweight, holds heat well and has a reasonable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material; it will not be affected by thermal deformations of the walls of the house, and “cold bridges” will not appear. After insulating the walls of the house with mineral wool, the outside needs to be sheathed with boards so that the building has a traditional appearance.

You can also insulate your home using polystyrene foam, but it is not recommended to insulate wooden houses; such insulation is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. Wood must breathe, and polystyrene foam, despite its qualities, does not allow air to pass through well. For this reason, condensation may accumulate, which will lead to the formation of mold and mildew.

Ecowool would be a good option for external insulation of wooden houses. Modern insulation contains 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptic substances. They help protect the structure from rodents and mold. This material is suitable for insulating any type of building.

There are also options for insulating wooden houses using fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, and sawdust granules. Any of the selected materials must have the following characteristics:

The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation should be higher than that of wood or at the same level.
Increased moisture resistance to avoid future formation of mold or mildew on the walls of the building.
Good fire-resistant properties, this is especially important for wooden buildings.
Air permeability. The selected material must have this property, otherwise the wooden walls of the house will not be able to “breathe,” and this will disrupt the entire microclimate inside the building.
Loose insulation structure. It will help to fit more tightly to the walls and will have a greater effect in thermal insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of insulating wooden houses occurs in stages; first you need to decide on the material, and then proceed to vapor barrier the house. The material you can choose from is:

Aluminum foil.
Special vapor barrier film.
Ruberoid.
Polyethylene film.

Vapor barrier will provide ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially important for the walls of a wooden building with smooth boards. On such a surface it is necessary to lay wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in a vertical position. A layer of vapor barrier is applied to the prepared and secured slats. In the upper and lower parts it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, approximately 20 mm in diameter. This will not allow moisture to accumulate under the film and will maximize the service life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is attached with nails or staples, as well as additional tape, so that moisture does not get into the fastening points in the future.

The second stage is the construction of the frame. For this work you will need boards 40-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The boards are stuffed vertically on the edge to the wall surface with a distance that will be a couple of centimeters less than the thickness of the insulation (mineral wool slabs). For this work, the board should not be thin, since the facing material will also be attached to it later.

The next step is to lay a layer of thermal insulation material. It is best to lay mineral wool in two layers with a slab thickness of 50 mm. The insulation boards are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the slabs of the second layer of mineral wool should be located at the joints of the first layer of insulation so that cracks do not form. Despite the fact that mineral wool slabs are elastic and semi-rigid, they can hold on without slipping on the frame without fastening. It is better to fasten them with metal or plastic anchors for greater reliability.

The last layer is waterproofing, which must be laid on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film must allow steam to pass through and not retain moisture on the wall and thermal insulation. The waterproofing film must be nailed or stapled tightly to the wooden frame. Make the joints overlap approximately 5-10 cm, and also seal them with self-adhesive tape for better sealing.

After completing the installation of waterproofing, you can begin external cladding walls of the house. The main stages of insulation have been completed, and the finishing material will only serve a decorative function. What to choose for cladding will depend on the style of construction and taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often chosen for decorative cladding natural wood or plastic, but you need to take into account that the total thickness of the insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm. This will significantly deepen the windows of the old building, so it’s worth thinking about how they will be covered from the side of the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to insulate the outside; it is easier to insulate a house with inside. If the external insulation of the walls of the house is carried out correctly, this will not only help to avoid heat loss, but the thermal insulation layer will serve as protection against temperature changes, as well as against dampness and humidity. If possible, it is necessary to insulate the foundation of the building. It is best to do this even before starting to insulate the walls, by treating the foundation in advance and then covering it with felt or jute tow. Before insulating the walls of the house, it is advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help avoid damage to your home in the future.

It is advisable to caulk all the cracks in the walls of a wooden house, which can be easily detected in calm weather with the help of a lighted candle, bringing it as close as possible to the surface of the wall. When the flame from a candle leans towards the wall, it means there is a gap in that place. The presence of cracks can be noticed in winter. In these places there will be a coating of frost during the heating period of the building. It is best to caulk cracks in warm and dry weather, using tow, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, so it requires a special approach. It can be compared to a living being; it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs insulation, like other types of buildings, but since a wooden house “breathes,” it needs insulation that will help allow condensation to pass through. Properly executed thermal insulation can extend the life of a wooden structure; it will always be warm and comfortable.

kotel.guru

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Stages of wall insulation
Materials for work
Work order

Today, more and more people, when building houses, in order to preserve their health, prefer to use natural materials, including wood. Wooden houses are often assembled from square timber with a section of 150x150 mm and 200x200 mm. Such buildings came to us from warm countries, where the average annual temperature is about 0 degrees. In the climate of Russia and the CIS, they require good heating. This leads to high costs for electricity, gas and other heat sources. In recent years, wooden houses have also been built from rounded logs.

It is more effective to insulate houses made of timber from the outside.

In a wooden house it is always quiet, calm, cozy and comfortable. To achieve even greater comfort and in order to save money on heating the premises, many owners try to insulate their wooden houses both outside and inside. Internal insulation has a big drawback: it significantly reduces the internal area of the house. Therefore, insulating a wooden house from the outside is the most ideal option.

If you properly insulate the walls, you can minimize the heat loss of a wooden house.

You can do all this with your own hands. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Stages of wall insulation

Insulation of a log house from the outside.

The entire technology of insulating a house from the outside comes down to several main stages:

choice of insulation material;
calculation of the quantity of materials;
direct installation of thermal insulation outside the building;
final finishing of the facade.

Among the insulation materials, the most popular are sheet foam, also called polystyrene foam, and mineral wool. For a wooden house, it is preferable to choose mineral wool. It is better ventilated (breathes) and provides excellent thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene - very good insulation, but he is not breathing. This is detrimental to wooden walls. They will soon begin to become covered with mold, mildew and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is better to insulate the house with mineral wool.

Calculating the amount of mineral wool is not difficult. This material is sold in slabs and twisted rolls. It is better to choose cotton wool in slabs. They are simply more convenient to use, especially when insulating smooth walls. The thickness of the slabs is usually 50 mm. When a wooden wall is 20 cm thick and the outside air temperature in winter is down to minus 20 degrees, one layer of mineral wool is enough for insulation. At temperatures below minus 20, you can insulate the walls with two or three layers of heat insulation.

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Insulation design for a wooden house for an average climate zone.

To perform insulation work, you will need:

mineral wool;
wooden strip 50x50 mm for single-layer insulation;
strip 50x100 mm for double-layer insulation;
waterproofing film;
self-tapping screws;
wood antiseptic (antifungal emulsion);
construction stapler;
staples for stapler;
metal or plastic anchors;
building level or plumb line.

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Layer diagram for insulating a wooden house.

It is better to carry out work on insulating walls outside in the summer and do it in a certain sequence:

surface preparation;
installation of a waterproofing layer;
installation of wooden sheathing;
installation of mineral wool slabs;
installation of an external waterproofing layer;
finishing of the facade.

Surface preparation includes treating the outer surfaces of the walls with an antiseptic or antifungal emulsion. After processing, the emulsion should dry well.

Aluminum foil, polyethylene film, and roofing felt are used as waterproofing. But it is better to purchase a special porous insulating film. It has small membranes to allow air and water vapor to pass in only one direction. Externally, one side of the film is glossy, the other is slightly fleecy and rough. This rough side of the film is directed towards the wall of the house. The waterproofing film is attached to the wooden wall with staples using a construction stapler. It is recommended to apply layers of film in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom. The upper layers are superimposed on the lower ones with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is advisable to additionally glue the joints with construction tape, which is sold along with the film.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool.

The purpose of this layer is to ensure ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. It is recommended to install slats 20-25 mm thick every m onto smooth walls. Attach the film to these slats. At the top and bottom between the slats, holes with a diameter of about 20 mm should be cut in the film. This technology will prevent moisture from accumulating between the wooden wall and the vapor barrier film.

A sheathing is installed on top of the laid waterproofing film. Before this, you need to measure the width of the thermal insulation slabs in centimeters. Subtract 2 from the result obtained. The resulting figure should be remembered. It is at this distance that the sheathing slats will be located.

The installation of the sheathing begins by securing the initial batten with self-tapping screws to the very corner of the house. The verticality of its installation is controlled by a level or plumb line. The following bars are fastened in such a way that the mineral wool slabs are placed very tightly between them.

Mineral wool is very easy to install. If necessary, it can be cut with a sharp knife. The insulation boards are attached to the wall using anchors. Holes in the wood of the wall are drilled through the cotton wool in increments of 50 cm, and anchors are hammered into them. A core is hammered into the anchor through a layer of cotton wool. It wedges the anchor body and with its wide head presses the insulation board against the wall.

After installing all the insulation boards on the wall, a new layer of waterproofing is laid on the outside of this insulation. The rough side of the film is applied to a layer of mineral wool. It is fastened with staples to the sheathing bars. On top of the film and staples, slats with a cross section of about 40x50 mm are attached with self-tapping screws. They will be needed as lathing for finishing the walls. For this finishing, lining, siding, facade boards and other facade finishing materials are used.

Insulating the walls outside is not the end of the job. It is necessary to take into account the fact that when insulating the house from the outside, the thickness of the walls will increase by 8-20 cm. It is necessary to think over the question of how to close the insulating layer from the side of the windows and doorways. Possible options are new trim and window sills, siding, lining.

http://youtu.be/Lxy-eLCamq8

Correctly performed insulation of the walls of a wooden building requires an investment of time, labor and cash. But the result is large annual savings on heating costs, the service life of the building is significantly extended, and living conditions in such a house become more comfortable. Insulating walls means extending the life of wooden housing.

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How to insulate the outside walls of a wooden house: characteristics of insulation materials, how to properly insulate a house

Wood is considered one of the best insulation materials, so houses made of this material often do not need additional insulation. However, some owners of wooden buildings believe that the wood may someday begin to deteriorate, and to protect their properties they insulate them and also line them. In addition, high-quality thermal insulation allows you to significantly save on energy consumption, which is consumed by heating devices. Before you begin insulating the outside of your home, you should decide not only the procedure for carrying out the work, but also the material that will be used for this.

What material is needed to insulate external walls?

How do you insulate a wooden house from the outside? The following materials are used for this:

Mineral wool. This material has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties, it provides a tight fit and practically does not require additional fixation. In addition, the elasticity and softness of the material allows it to be laid easily and efficiently. Mineral wool is not affected by high temperatures. It also does not allow mold or mildew to spread throughout its structure, and no toxic substances are used in its creation.
Penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is a special plate that is created from foamed polystyrene with a cellular structure. This material has low thermal conductivity, good strength, long service life, practically does not absorb moisture, and is also resistant to temperature changes and frost. However, penoplex is expensive and is easily damaged by rodents. Under the influence high temperatures it melts and burns easily.
Foam plastic. It is considered the most popular material used for insulating the external walls of a wooden house. Its structure is a bit like penoplex, but its cells are of a different size, and it also has a different density and manufacturing method. This material has good thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture at all and is light in weight. It is easy to install and also has low price. However, polystyrene foam has poor gas and vapor permeability, which is why air does not enter the room.
Polyurethane foam. It is a fairly effective material used for insulating walls outside a wooden house. Its installation is carried out by spraying. Many people prefer polyurethane foam to other insulation materials for its excellent qualities and the ability to replace the old layer with a new one only after 30 years. Its foamy structure provides excellent protection from both frost and dust. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of caustic chemical vapors and even acids. In addition, it does not absorb moisture well, is highly environmentally friendly and has good fire resistance. However, you should protect it from ultraviolet radiation, which can quickly age the material.

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

The main characteristics that you need to pay attention to when choosing insulation for the walls of a wooden house are the following:

For example, expanded polystyrene has absolutely ideal characteristics, but it has a significant drawback - it is a high degree of flammability and the release of ethylene, which affects negative influence on the human body. But mineral insulation practically do not burn, have good chemical resistance, hygroscopicity and a high degree of sound insulation.

You should simply strive to carry out high-quality insulation with materials in order to avoid such unfavorable aspects as excessive moisture and instability to the influence of rodents, and at the same time increase the positive qualities - fire resistance, strength, reliability.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the technology of insulating the external walls of a wooden house with such popular materials as mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Insulation of external walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Before you start insulating your house, you need to calculate the amount of material. Mineral wool is made in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. It is best to use material in the form of slabs for insulation, since rolls are completely inconvenient. To calculate the required amount of insulation, you should know what thickness it has load-bearing structure. The natural factor is also important. For example, for wooden walls with a thickness of no more than 20 cm, one layer of mineral wool will be sufficient, provided that the winter is not too severe. In addition, for the insulation process it is necessary to purchase the following tools and materials:

self-tapping screws;
anchors;
special film for waterproofing;
building level;
construction stapler;
plumb line

Then they begin to prepare the surface that will need to be insulated. Due to the fact that it is wooden, it is necessary to treat it with special agents that prevent the formation of fungus. This can be an emulsion or a primer. In order for the antiseptic to dry thoroughly, you should leave it for a while. The outside walls must be dry when laying insulation. The joints between the boards should also be examined. There should be no damage or cracks.

After this, thermal insulation is carried out. First, a vapor barrier layer is attached. This can be roofing felt, a vapor barrier, plastic film or aluminum foil. A vapor barrier layer is necessary for ventilation of the facade of the house. Vertically narrow slats are placed on the surface, onto which a layer of vapor barrier is attached. Small ventilation holes are made at the top and bottom between these slats, which prevent the formation of moisture that negatively affects the wooden walls. To prevent moisture from seeping through holes from staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Then the sheathing is installed. A frame is made for the subsequent installation of a layer of thermal insulation. The boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They should be attached with the edge part to the wall. The distance between them directly depends on the thickness of the insulation.

They begin to install the thermal insulation material. It should be laid between the installed sheathing beams. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut using an ordinary knife. Installation is carried out completely eliminating all gaps and cracks. Insulation is carried out as follows: the joint line of the first layer of insulation should be at the level of the middle of the slab of the second layer. Mineral wool is an elastic material, so no additional fastenings are required. Then several small holes are made in the insulation. They are necessary for fasteners and anchors.

Waterproof the structure. A special strip is attached that retains moisture and does not allow air to pass through. It should be overlapped and secured with a construction stapler. To maintain tightness, all joints and holes should be sealed with construction tape. A lath is attached to the waterproofing layer, creating air flow between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. The free space below is closed metal mesh, protecting against rodents and insects. After completing the insulation, the house is sheathed with any finishing material.

Insulation of external walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam

This material is considered the most popular used for insulating the external walls of a wooden house. Before starting insulation work, you must make sure that the joints on the wall of the house do not have cracks or holes. Then the boards on which the foam will be attached are mounted vertically. In order for the sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, it is necessary to maintain a certain distance between the boards. To do this, you need to add up the thickness of the foam and the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame is mounted in this way: the rib part of the beams should be nailed to the middle of the previous ones. The resulting structure must have the same depth as the insulation. Then a layer of thermal insulation is attached. Work starts from the bottom. There must be the correct distance between the beams - this is the key to high-quality fastening of the foam. Check if there are gaps at the joints.

The diffusion membrane should be secured on top of the previous layer using a construction stapler, and the holes and joints should be insulated with tape. After completing the insulation of the house, it is faced with cladding.

Thus, in order to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside, it is necessary to use only environmentally friendly materials that have the appropriate technical characteristics. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the positive and negative aspects each insulation and draw appropriate conclusions.

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How to insulate the outside of a wooden house with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of insulation work

Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. Moreover, it is natural and environmentally friendly.

Recently, the construction of wooden houses has become increasingly widespread. A room made from such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners don’t even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to retain heat. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? This needs to be looked into in more detail.

What is the best way to insulate the outside of a wooden house?

Houses made of wood can be insulated from the outside or the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation gives the greatest effect because:

space inside the house is saved;
this is great protection load-bearing walls from natural disasters;
moisture will never accumulate on the walls, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and accordingly the wood will not rot and destroy.

Insulating a house from the outside requires careful selection required material. It is best to use mineral wool and polystyrene foam for these purposes.

Mineral wool

Most often, do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:

Expanded polystyrene

It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not recommend insulating a wooden house with it, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to emit ethylene, which is harmful to human body.

Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

To insulate a building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In construction stores you can purchase mineral wool in the following variations:

It is best to use the material in slabs for insulation, since rolls are very inconvenient.

Calculation of material quantity

First, calculate the amount of material required for insulation. To do this, you need to know how thick the supporting structure is. It is also necessary to consider natural conditions. For example, if winters are not too severe, the walls of a house 20 cm thick should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.

In addition to the insulation material, you should purchase anchors, screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, a building level and a special stapler.

Preparing the surface for insulation

Then they begin to prepare the surface that requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special agents against the formation of fungus. You can use an emulsion or primer. To ensure that the selected antiseptic dries thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls should not be wet. Correctly lay insulation only on a dry surface. There should be no gaps between the boards. If they do arise, the situation is corrected with the help of jute tow or polyurethane foam.

Vapor barrier and installation of sheathing

The next stage is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to attach the vapor barrier layer using polyethylene film, aluminum foil, and roofing felt or vapor barrier. This layer is intended to ensure that the façade of the house has ventilation. Narrow slats begin to be placed vertically on the smooth surface, which will subsequently be used to attach the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilation holes are provided between the slats at the bottom and top. They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through holes made by staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

They begin to install the sheathing. To do this, install a frame that will be used to install the thermal insulation layer. The thickness of the boards should be 40 mm and the width 100 mm. They are attached to the wall with the rib part. The distance between the bars directly depends on the thickness of the insulation material. Be sure to use a building level, with which you level the position of the boards relative to the vertical level.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Next, they begin to install the insulation material. It is laid between the beams of the sheathing. If necessary, cut the mineral wool with a regular sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and cracks. A special feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which makes it possible not to use additional fastenings. After this, several holes are made in the insulation at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.

Waterproofing of the structure and façade cladding

Then they begin to waterproof the structure. To do this, attach a special film that can retain moisture and does not allow air to pass through. Lay it overlapping and secure it with regular nails or a construction stapler to the frame. To ensure tightness, all joints and holes are sealed with construction tape. A strip should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. The free space below must be covered with a metal mesh to prevent various insects and rodents from getting inside.

The final stage of insulating a house is covering the facade with the necessary finishing material, for example, block house or siding. The installation process of the finishing coating is carried out according to technology.

Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic

To insulate a house with your own hands, polystyrene foam is also used. Before starting installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After this, install the boards that will be needed to attach the foam. In order for the insulation sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe required distance boards from each other. To do this, add up the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame begins to be assembled in this way: the edges of the beams are nailed to the middle of the previous ones. Then they begin to attach the insulation layer; this process is best started from the bottom. The correct distance between the bars is the key to good fastening of the material. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. A diffusion membrane is attached on top of the previous layer with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with tape. Finally, the wooden house is faced with cladding.