Leveling walls with plasterboard using the frameless method. Application different technologies to various rough surfaces. Use of supports and struts. Fixation with self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, installation of beacons.

Drywall without frame on the wall

Leveling the surface with plasterboard is the most popular type of repair work, characterized by speed and quality. There are 2 methods of fixing gypsum boards: framed and frameless.

Drywall without frame on the wall - fast a budget option, which has its advantages. Methods for gluing plasterboard to the surface, as well as fixing sheets with self-tapping screws, are discussed below.

When is it possible to level walls with plasterboard without a frame?

To level the surface of gypsum boards, the following methods are applicable:

• Frame - the use of profiles and components to create sheathing for GC sheets.
• Frameless - gluing or directly fixing the sheet to the rough surface.

Fixation of material without a profile is performed in the following cases:

1. If the walls are crooked by no more than 5 cm.
2. There is no need to hide wires and communications.
3. In a small room (toilet, bathroom), where it is not possible to allocate centimeters for the construction of sheathing.

The lathing takes up at least 12 cm of free space in the room.

The frameless method has its disadvantages:

• There is no way to hide communications.
• There is no way to insulate the rough surface.
• In some cases, additional fixation with self-tapping screws or dowel nails is necessary.
• The plasterboard sheet becomes heavy with glue applied, making it difficult for one person to lift it. We need to call a neighbor for help.

For relatively flat walls, it is advisable to install gypsum boards using a frameless method.

Existing installation techniques

To fix gypsum boards without lathing, you can use the following methods:

1. Gluing the material to the rough base using mastic or glue. To do this, a solution is applied at the place of curvature, and it is also applied to checkerboard pattern per sheet. The plasterboard is applied to the wall, aligned and pressed, additionally installing a holder. There should be 10-12 mm from the floor to the gypsum board. To do this, you can put a small piece of sheathing material.
2. The use of self-tapping screws and foam rubber. This method is used for large curvatures. Fixation is carried out as follows:

• make markings for the material;
• 9-12 holes are drilled on the gypsum board. Their location is transferred to the rough base;
• pieces of foam rubber are glued near these holes on the back side;
• The sleeve from the dowel-nail (plastic part) is inserted into the base according to the marks;
• The sheet is screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

1. Combined method. Beacons are installed from below and above. The middle is filled with glue.

All methods of fixing a sheet to a rough base are applicable for various surface unevennesses.

Advantages of cladding using the frameless method

The frameless method has the following features and solves the following problems:

1. leveling surfaces without taking up centimeters of the room;
2. plasterboard structures improve sound insulation;
3. the room is being insulated slightly;
4. relatively quick installation;
5. budget option - no need to buy profiles and components.

Fixing the gypsum board to the rough surface will be strong only after correct selection adhesive composition.

How to cover a wall with plasterboard without a frame and profile with your own hands

Covering the base without a profile is permissible only with unevenness of no more than 2 cm. To apply this method you need materials and tools:

• a set of spatulas with various blades;
• level, rule;
• container for adhesive solution;
• glue mixture;
• primer, roller, brush;
• reinforcing tape;
• putty for gypsum board joints.

After collecting all materials and tools, preparatory work must be carried out.

To do this, the walls must be cleaned of the previous coating - paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster. The entire surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

A plumb line is suspended from the ceiling to determine the overall curvature vertically.

Next comes the preparation of drywall. If the installation is carried out alone, then the sheet of drywall should be cut for convenience. Holes for sockets and switches are cut out in the prepared material. The cut end parts of the material are chamfered using a plane or milling cutter.

On which walls can GVL be installed without a profile?

Installing gypsum boards without a profile is possible using glue if the differences are no more than 2 cm. It is better to apply the glue in “bloops”. They are distributed evenly over the sheet, after which the material with the adhesive composition is leaned against the rough base. It is necessary to align the sheet - it must stand strictly vertically.

After this, lightly tapping the plasterboard, the unevenness of the rough base is filled with glue, the excess goes beyond the boundaries. They are removed with a spatula. The sheet must be fixed with a holder for setting the glue. Only after the composition has hardened do they begin to install the next sheet.

When is it necessary to partially finish walls with wooden slats?

If the base has an unevenness of more than 2 cm, then use a different adhesive method. A grid of wooden slats is mounted on the rough surface. If there are none, then cut the gypsum board sheet into strips 10 cm wide. The strips are glued to the wall using an adhesive composition. We must wait until it dries completely. The gypsum board joints should have strips 16 cm wide - 8 for each sheet. All pasted beacons must be strictly vertical. Leveled.

The evenness of the glued beacons must also be checked using the diagonal rule.

1. A continuous strip of glue is applied to the gypsum board sheet. It must be located in the place where the beacons will pass.
2. Drywall swears by beacons glued to the base.

Using wooden beacon slats, the rough wall is leveled and the gypsum board is sewn up.

How to install directly on self-tapping screws: how to screw the sheets

There is another option for fastening finishing material to a rough surface without a frame. This is wall cladding using self-tapping screws. However, this method is applicable when the surface is flat and there are no differences.

There are nuances here:

• before fastening the gypsum boards with self-tapping screws, you need to check how easily the fasteners fit into the rough base;
• drywall is attached to the wall to improve sound and heat insulation;
• It is not necessary to clean the surface before fastening.

It is not difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into brickwork. Here the drywall serves as dry plaster for the base.

It is difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete slabs, so dowels and nails are used. They do it like this:

1. Apply gypsum board to concrete.
2. They make holes in the material so that there is a hole in the base.
3. The gypsum board is removed.
4. The plastic part of the dowel-nail is driven into the concrete.
5. Place the sheet again and screw in the self-tapping screw, which falls into the plastic sleeve.

The gypsum board is fixed on the wall. For strength, additional holes are created in the sheet and polyurethane foam is introduced through them, serving as glue.

After fixing the drywall to the surface, the joints are reinforced and puttyed.

Do I need to install an additional wall mount?

After fixing the first HA sheet to the rough surface, the adhesive composition should set. To do this, you need to secure the sheet additionally. In order not to keep the sheet near the wall for an hour or more, additional fastening is used:

1. A homemade wooden device similar to a mop. To do this, the vertical stick must be at least 1.5 m, the horizontal one must be equal to the width of the sheet. The horizontal strip should be smooth so as not to damage the material. It is placed against the fixed material. Moreover, the vertical rail is fixed on the floor (so that there is a stop).
2. A homemade device made from profiles is the same mop only made from profiles for sheathing under gypsum boards.
3. Purchased support. Assembled from several parts, which are made from metal pipes. The same device serves as a lifter for the sheet to the ceiling.

If you do not use a support for the material while the adhesive composition is curing, then the gypsum board may not stick or may not be fixed properly and will fall off over time.

Brick wall cladding: features

Brickwork has a number of features that must be taken into account when fixing gypsum boards.

1. When attaching a sheet with self-tapping screws without glue, once they get into the solution, they will not last long. The building has its own movements, the fasteners will be unreliable.
2. Gypsum adhesive when applied to cement mortar will not have good adhesion due to the difference in composition. Eventually the glue will peel off.
3. A brick wall can collect condensation if it is thin and is affected by street temperature changes. Moisture has a negative effect on gypsum boards. In this case, you need to use polyurethane foam and self-tapping screws.

There are two ways to solve the problem of installing gypsum on brick:

1. In the first case, polyurethane foam is poured into small space between the gypsum board and the base.
2. In the second, foam is applied to the surface of the sheet, and then it is fixed to the surface. This case is more acceptable, since it is possible to control the amount of foam applied to the surface facing material.

Use foam that has the lowest expansion coefficient - for expanded polystyrene.

Installation of facing material with screws and foam:

1. One sheet is drilled in 9-12 places.
2. These points are transferred to the surface.
3. Near drilled holes pieces of foam rubber are fixed to the glue. It serves as shock absorbers during fastening.
4. Dowels are driven into the wall at the marked places.
5. The sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws wide hats, washers are placed under them. During installation, evenness must be measured using a level and a rule.
6. Stepping 1-2 cm to the side from the fasteners, holes are drilled into the gypsum board for foam insertion.
7. Foam is injected into the hole in small doses. Don't forget - foam expands.

After the foam has dried (about a day), the screws are removed along with the washers. Instead, screw in regular self-tapping screws, “drowning” the caps a little.

Is it possible to attach GVL directly to a concrete wall without profiles?

The concrete wall does not have large differences, so the gypsum boards are fixed with glue.

Gypsum compositions are not used for concrete due to the incompatibility of the included elements. It is better to use acrylic glue.

Before gluing the material, the surface is prepared. Namely:

• notches are made on the concrete for greater adhesion;
• The entire wall is covered with primer.

After that:

1. The gypsum board sheet is laid on flat wooden slats in front of the fixation point.
2. Glue is applied to it with a notched trowel.
3. The sheet is lifted, a piece of drywall is placed under it so that there is a gap from the floor and it is leveled.
4. Press it to the base and secure it with a “mop” until the glue dries.
5. The second sheet is fixed after the first has dried.

If the wall has a curvature, beacons made of wooden slats or cut strips of plasterboard are used.

Before installing drywall on the walls, you should familiarize yourself with the tips and recommendations of the experts:

• fixation of the finishing material begins after all the electrical wiring has been done and the floor has been laid;
• To install gypsum boards, the room must be moderately damp and the temperature must be at least 10 0C;
• the walls must be cleaned of finishing and coated with primer;
• For wet areas We use moisture-resistant plasterboard;
• the sheet of glue is heavy, so you need to invite one person to help;
• Any glue that comes out must be removed immediately.

Having performed the installation technique correctly, as well as applying the recommendations of the masters, the wall surface will be smooth and ready for further finishing. A plasterboard structure will last 10-15 years if there are no sudden changes in temperature and constantly high humidity in the room.

Useful video

If you prefer to do renovation work in the house exclusively on your own, and also always try to save money, read our article to the end. We will tell you how to attach drywall with your own hands to walls without a frame. So that they become perfectly even with a minimum of material costs.

Scope of material use

Drywall is a composite material manufactured in the form of sheets with high flexibility and durability (GCR). Many characteristics of a material depend on its type. And the type is selected for the specific parameters of the room: moisture-resistant is used in the bathroom and kitchen, non-moisture-resistant in the bedroom or living room.

Its use allows you to level the curvature of the walls of an already built country cottage or a city apartment. And we will then talk about how to do it yourself by cladding walls with a sheet of plasterboard without first constructing a metal frame.

Possible use of plasterboard structures

Advantages of gypsum plasterboard

The performance characteristics demonstrated by a sheet of plasterboard are: in an ideal way suitable for residential premises. Therefore, experts say that when leveling the surface of the walls country house or city apartment best material can not found.

Other advantages include the following:

• environmental cleanliness, absence of toxins and, as a result, harmlessness to others;
• complies with radiation indicator standards;
• features energy-saving parameters;
• characterized by excellent sound insulation ability;
• fire-resistant and does not burn;
• There are species that are resistant to increased level moisture;
• has a fairly wide scope of application, as it allows builders and interior designers to realize the most incredible architectural fantasies and decorative ideas.

Gypsum boards

Required Tools

A person’s arsenal when working with gypsum boards should include the following tools:

• measuring tape: for taking measurements;
• construction knife: for cutting plasterboard;
• spatula: for applying putty at the joints of sheets;
• fine sandpaper for sanding joints;
• electric jigsaw: if you need to create shaped inserts;
• level: to determine the curvature of a surface.

Required Tools

How to attach drywall to a wall

In most cases, to attach plasterboard sheets to walls, a frame is first constructed from metal profiles. However, this technique cannot always be applied without problems.

There are situations when installing a frame is simply impossible. So, in small rooms, wall decoration with plasterboard can be organized without such a design. After all profile frame"eats" quite a lot free space, which is already limited in a small room.

A prerequisite for the effectiveness and durability of repairs is a dry surface. If the wall was wet during the work, the finish will not last long on it.

Frameless method of fastening drywall
Frame method of fastening drywall

We carry out measurements and calculations

An obligatory stage of work is to carry out measurements and calculations that are relevant for the premises. Measurements of the height and width of the walls are carried out with a measuring tape. Specific numbers will allow you to calculate the area work surface and calculate the current volume of materials.

Examine the wall on which the slab will be mounted in the future for curvature. After all, the features of covering the base with plasterboard without a frame will largely depend on this parameter.

Using a level we check the unevenness of the wall

When choosing plasterboard boards, first of all you need to determine the current conditions in your room. Be sure to note that gypsum boards must be laid offset. This technique allows you to prevent cross-shaped joints.

Installation diagram of plasterboard slabs with offset

How to cut material

To cut the product, mark a cut line on it with a simple pencil. Then, make an incision in the gypsum board with one construction knife and break it, bending the product inward along the intended line. Now you can make an incision on the other side and the final break of the gypsum board. This way the edges of the sheets will be neat.

Drywall cutting diagram

Preparing the wall for plasterboard covering

The next stage of work is surface preparation. It involves cleaning the base from dust, dirt and peelings of the previous finish. A porous surface should be primed. In the case of a new building, other repairs to the premises must already be completed. So, before you begin installing slabs on its walls, all communications must be installed. Then you can safely choose one of the methods for performing this task.

Apply adhesive composition

To fix the drywall to the wall, you can use starting putty. It is also acceptable to use building gypsum, to which water and PVA are added. Such a composition will have high quality characteristics. But most the best option is ready-made glue.

The mixture should be applied to the drywall in large drops using a notched trowel.

Applying glue to drywall

Installation of gypsum boards

And to complete the work, you need to install drywall sheets. The construction of a frame for drywall is inappropriate here, since it requires enough free space in the room. And the technique and actual adhesive composition for this operation is determined by the degree of surface curvature.

If a very smooth wall is covered with plasterboard, then it must first be primed with a special product. So, an excellent option would be the Concrete Contact soil, which significantly increases the adhesion of the base. And for leveling bases with plasterboard, you can prefer “Perlfix” and “Fugenfüller” from the famous Knauf brand. These compositions will reliably fix the plasterboard on the base without losing their original qualities.

If the walls of the house are made of concrete, the installation of gypsum boards should be carried out after they have been treated with a primer such as “Rikombigrunt” or “Tiefengrund”. Such compositions prevent the absorption of glue by concrete structures.

Surface primer

Covering a wall with plasterboard with differences of less than 4 mm involves gluing gypsum boards onto working wall using a putty mixture of the Fugenfüller type. It is applied in thin longitudinal rows. To perform this operation, take a notched spatula. This tool will make working with putty very comfortable.

If the unevenness of the base does not exceed 20 mm, then it is worth using the more reliable Perlfix glue for gluing the gypsum board to it. Moreover, the composition should be applied in piles using a trowel, observing a step size of 35 cm. The piles should have the same size and height less than 25 mm. If wall defects exceed 40 mm, then installation of plasterboard on the bases is carried out on top of the lathing using Fugenfüller type putty and self-tapping screws.

Cladding walls with plasterboard using glue

After the beds are applied to the wall, you will need to make pads from drywall scraps. You can also use wooden slats. They are mounted around the perimeter of the working surface. And then gypsum boards are installed on the bottom of the created linings. Light blows from a rubber mallet force the sheets into place more tightly. Experts also advise not to skimp on glue, but to make a thicker layer.

Applying adhesive mixture to the wall
Installing drywall on the wall using glue

Finishing

When the installation of gypsum boards is completed, the joints of the sheets are puttied and sanded with sandpaper until perfectly even. Next, the walls can be covered decorative plaster, paint, wallpaper and the like.

Finishing
Puttying seams

Installing gypsum boards on walls without a frame in order to level them is quite easy to do with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to accurately measure the curvature of the bases, read our article to the end, and also have plasterboard sheets, wooden slats and glue.

Most often they use plasterboard, which today, due to its advantages, is one of the most the best ways internal lining. Usually, for its installation, a special sheathing is constructed from a metal profile, but this may not always be advisable. In small rooms, for example, installing a frame will reduce its already small area.

Required tools and materials

To attach drywall to walls without lathing, you will need the following materials and tools:

• plasterboard sheets;
• powder mixture or construction adhesive;
• primer composition;
• bucket for preparing fixing solution;
• a screwdriver with an attachment or a construction mixer;
• jigsaw;
• spirit level to determine the level;
• construction or stationery knife for cutting sheets;
• ruler, felt-tip pen, tape measure;
• rule;
• metal brush;
• roller for painting;
• rubber mallet;
• smooth long rail;
• spatulas.

Measurements and cutting

The initial stage of work is taking measurements of the room and cutting materials. Based on the measurement results, you can consider options for the arrangement of sheets and determine the most acceptable one. If the ceiling height exceeds 2.5 meters, in addition to standard sheets, you will need inserts that must be pre-cut.

The process of cutting and cutting drywall for inserts is as follows:

• the line along which cutting will be carried out is indicated;
• along the entire length of the marked line, a knife is used to cut one side of the sheet;
• along the cutting line, bending inward, it is cut;
• on the opposite side, at the fracture site, the cut sheet is cut into two parts.

Preparing the walls

The next step is preparing the base. Depending on the material from which the walls are finished, various measures are taken to prepare it. Yes, for brickwork It will be enough to treat it with a primer mixture.

If the surface has been plastered, to avoid peeling of the putty and deformation of the slab, all coating should be removed, including all layers of finish, then immediately apply a primer coat.

If difficulties arise in the process of removing the old base, you will need to use metal brush, with the help of which dust, dirt and deposits are cleaned from the wall.

If during work the finish peels off from the base, you should carefully plaster the potholes so that the surface is smooth.

Let's take a closer look at the process of preparing the wall surface:

1. To remove paint or old wallpaper, it is better to use a hard metal spatula. It is important that it does not sag. Before removing the wallpaper, you should wet it well with a sponge and allow the water to soak into the wallpaper layer for some time and soak the glue. If necessary, you can wet the wall several times. As an alternative to water, you can use a special liquid to remove wallpaper, but it is not cheap, but the process of removing wallpaper is noticeably easier.
2. Plaster can be removed using an axe, hammer or hammer drill., making sure that the wall is completely clear of decoration, otherwise it may negatively affect the final result.
3. Layer old paint can be removed with a small ax, with which the old coating is knocked off centimeter by centimeter.

Fixing composition

For work with drywall that does not require the installation of a frame for attaching drywall, adhesive mixtures are used. Since drywall is used for interior decoration, the basis of dry compositions is gypsum. Instead of glue, you can use starting putty or alabaster, but to increase adhesion you will have to add PVA glue or wallpaper glue to the water.

Let's consider several ways to use the solution:

• when differences exceed 5 mm, the plasterboard is fixed to putty with a gypsum base, which is applied in a thin layer along all edges and in the middle of the slab;
• with differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are fixed using a special gypsum glue, which is applied pointwise at a distance of 30 centimeters;
• for unevenness less than 40 mm, strips of plasterboard 10 cm wide are attached to the wall using glue, after which sheets are glued onto them using putty;
• if the wall differences are more than 40-50 mm, the frameless method of attaching drywall is unacceptable.

A solution for fixing drywall to walls is prepared from a powder mixture and water. To prepare a 10-liter bucket, fill it a third with water and add the mixture little by little, constantly stirring it with a mixer or drill at low speed.

Knead the solution for less than 5 minutes, then take a short break and beat again, this will break up all the dry lumps. The consistency of the solution should resemble mashed potatoes.

Fixing mixtures, regardless of the manufacturer, harden fairly quickly, however, subsequent finishing of drywall can begin no earlier than after 24 hours.

Drywall installation

There are several ways frameless fastening drywall:

1. Fixation with glue. First of all, in order to avoid damage to the drywall, which can occur when the walls are deformed, it is recommended to leave small gaps: 1 cm from the floor, 0.5 cm from the ceiling and between the sheets. To do this, you will need wooden pegs when fixing the material. A solution is applied to a sheet previously treated with a primer., after which it is glued to the base as quickly but carefully as possible. First of all, gaskets are installed at the bottom edge, then after positioning the sheet according to the bottom marks, the rest of it is fixed. Using a rule or level, lightly tapping with a rubber hammer adjusts the unevenness, but it is not advisable to knock on the tool. The alignment process is controlled as follows: determined the location of the unevenness, removed the tool, leveled it and adjusted the level again. After leveling is completed, the slab should be supported for a while with a wooden lath. If the differences in the wall are significant, guides are used for installation, which are installed in places of greatest difference, compensating for them with a large amount of glue. The sheets should be aligned carefully so as not to deform it. Upon completion of the work, the joints of the sheets are glued with fiberglass mesh, and after the solution has dried, they are puttied. Roughness and unevenness are rubbed down with sandpaper, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
2. Installation with self-tapping screws. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but more reliable. Suitable for walls with large irregularities. In addition to the basic set of materials and tools, you will need polyurethane foam and foam rubber (thin will not work). Before attaching the sheets, the walls must be treated with a primer. Then the previously cut slabs are applied to the base, and holes are drilled in constant steps at ten points, which serve as a marker. Remove the slab and drive anchors into the holes using markers. Foam rubber is glued onto the sheet at a distance of 9-11 centimeters from the holes, which acts as a shock absorber, then it is leaned against the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is fastened using a level by screwing in and unscrewing screws. To fix the sheet, a hole with a circumference of about 5 mm is drilled near each screw, into which polyurethane foam will be poured. Before pouring, it is advisable to practice with the dosage; it is necessary that after the foam comes out, a spot with a diameter of 12-15 centimeters will form. If there are electrical switches or sockets on the walls, holes for them are pre-cut. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed and the resulting holes are covered with putty. Then you can proceed to the final stage of work - sealing the seams and installing skirting boards.

Let's get acquainted with the features of installing the material on a base with varying degrees of differences:

1. If unevenness exceeds 4 mm, the sheets can be installed from any angle and close to each other. If the material is attached to wooden base, you can use nails with large heads that go shallow into the drywall.
2. For differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are laid on glue from the corner close to each other. Any glue that may appear at the joints should be carefully removed.
3. Installation of drywall with unevenness up to 40 mm is carried out by cutting the sheets into strips half a meter wide, and they are attached vertically to the base.

Completion of work

After completing the installation of drywall using a frameless method, the joints between the sheets should be securely sealed. At this stage, the joints are filled with putty and reinforcing glass tape is glued, which is covered with a finishing layer of plaster.

After the surface has dried, all irregularities and roughness are rubbed off using sanding paper.

It is important to reliably align and adhere the material to the openings for windows and doors. Indoors with plastic windows finishing of the fit is carried out using a plastic profile. The gaps above the floor are covered with plinths, and the gaps under the ceiling are puttied or covered ceiling plinth.

1. Finishing with plasterboard may require the use of shaped inserts. To do this, you will need to use an electric jigsaw, which can be used to create beautiful shapes with smooth edges.
2. When cleaning the surface there will be a lot of dust, Therefore, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask, and periodically spray the base with water.
3. The ceiling height when installing drywall without lathing should not exceed three meters due to the fact that the device horizontal joints technology is not provided.
4. If the sheet is deformed during installation of the material, it can be restored. So, shallow scratches and chips are smoothed out with putty. To do this, clean the scratched area from dust, remove torn parts of the cardboard and repair the damage with universal putty or gypsum mixture. If there are any irregularities, after the putty has dried, they are sanded with sandpaper.
5. Deep damage is repaired by applying a patch. A hole is cut out in a previously cleaned damaged area so that its circumference in depth is larger than the circumference of the outer edge. A patch is cut out of drywall so that it fits tightly into the hole. On the other side it is secured with a wooden plank. WITH outside the patch is reinforced with fabric and puttied. After drying, sand it.
6. In rooms with a lot of electrical appliances and hidden wiring, it is recommended to use fire-resistant material, which will prevent the occurrence of fire hazards.

Drywall is an excellent basis for subsequent finishing works. This material allows you not only to level the surface of the walls, but also to give the room the desired geometry. To realize design ideas or sheathe a surface with a complex configuration - all this can be done with the help of plasterboard. You can safely, wall, .

When wondering how to attach drywall to a wall, you should choose one of two fastening methods. One of them involves the formation frame structures for subsequent installation of drywall on them. The second method allows you to solve this problem by attaching sheets of material directly to the wall using adhesives.

Fastening drywall to walls

• Frame fastening method

Before fixing the drywall to the wall, this method requires the formation and installation of special structures. Advantages of the frame method:

• the ability to create shaped structures;
• the possibility of laying communications (wiring, heating systems, pipes) under drywall;
• the possibility of forming a layer of heat or sound insulation between the plasterboard and the wall.

The materials used to form the frame are metal or wooden profiles. The first option is used more often. This is explained by the greater reliability of the metal and the lack of tendency to deform.

Wooden blocks, deforming under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, can cause deformation of sheets of material.

• How to install a wooden frame

Before attaching the drywall to the wall, the horizontal frame guides are strengthened. The wall is connected to the element using dowels. Then vertical bars are attached every 60 cm.

Next, it is on the horizontal guides that the sheets will be attached. Some cases require the installation of only vertical bars. Drywall is installed directly on them using wood screws.

• How to install a metal frame for gypsum boards

This method is somewhat more complicated to implement.

• First you need to mark the wall, which serves as a guide. Having placed marks on the floor and ceiling, with a distance of approximately 4 cm from the wall, stretch the rope between them, checking its horizontalness with a building level.
• Followed by secure the U-shaped guides, focusing on these marks.
• After this, install the same profiles on vertical walls.
• The frame is fastened to the wall with dowels observing a step of 30-40 cm. Correct marking ensures the future result in the form of a perfectly flat wall.
• The next step is to secure the vertical guides. They are mounted to U-shaped profiles with small self-tapping screws. The distance between the guides is 60 cm.

When there is a need to give the frame more strength, you need to make additional fastening of the profiles to the wall. Depending on the height of the walls of the room, brackets are secured in one or two places with dowels. After this, the moving parts of the brackets are bent at right angles and screwed to the vertical guides using self-tapping screws. In addition, the structure can be strengthened with horizontal jumpers from the CD profile.

Video - How to cover walls with plasterboard yourself

In accordance with this sequence, the frames are attached to all walls of the room. It is important that the horizontal and vertical guides are located at right angles.

After constructing the frame structure, laying plasterboard sheets should begin.

• Fastening is done using metal screws, laying the sheets end-to-end.
• Self-tapping screws are installed so as to penetrate the surface no more than 2-3 mm.
• Some builders use an auxiliary tool - a nozzle for tightening screws, which makes it possible to control the depth of immersion of the fastener. The distance between the fasteners should be 25-30 cm.
• Next, you need to go over all the irregularities, seams and screw holes with putty. The seams are covered with reinforcing tape, which protects them from cracks. Having completed the putty, you need to coat the wall with a primer. The dried primer is the basis for further application of the finishing material.

Fastening drywall sheets with glue - Video

Implementation this method somewhat simpler than the frame one, but it has some disadvantages. First of all, the base for gluing drywall sheets must be level. As a rule, if the walls are not concrete, but, for example, brick, then they have certain irregularities, which can cause difficulties when installing drywall using the adhesive method.

• Having decided which side to glue the drywall, you need to apply the glue solution to back side sheet and on the wall. The glue used for this purpose tends to dry quickly, so all work must be done as quickly as possible.
• You need to level the sheet attached to the wall using a level and support it until the glue dries completely.
• The glue must be prepared immediately before gluing. It is important to follow the recommendations regarding the brand, proportions of water and dry mixture when preparing it.

The remaining sheets are fastened in the same way. Putty and primer are done using the same technology as with the frame fastening method.

Comparing both methods of attaching drywall to the wall, we can conclude that each of them can be used depending on the specific situation.

It is better to use the frame method if the walls are not smooth enough and you need to lay any communications or insulation materials, and also, if you need to form figured decorative elements.

You can attach drywall with glue if the wall has as smooth a surface as possible, and also if you don’t want to waste extra centimeters of space on installing a frame structure.

When carrying out work on fastening drywall, it is important to follow the recommendations regarding leveling the horizontal level of the frame and drywall sheets. The quality and service life of future wall cladding depends on this.

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How to attach drywall to walls without a frame - 3 real ways

Leveling walls using plasterboards is one of the fastest and available ways arrangement of the premises. On this moment There are 2 main installation technologies: frame and frameless. It is, of course, easier to mount on a frame, but it takes up a lot of usable space. Therefore, in small city apartments it is more relevant to install drywall on a wall without a frame. In this article I will talk about three ways to cover walls with plasterboard without a frame and all the intricacies of this process that I know.

A few words about the material

During the existence and active use of plasterboard, several types of such sheets have been developed, each of which is intended for certain operating conditions:

• In residential, dry areas the most common are standard sheets GKL. Such sheets are not impregnated with anything, hence the price for them is perhaps the most affordable. They are often released gray and have blue markings;
• For cladding in services and other rooms with high humidity GKLV sheets are produced. This is a moisture resistant material. Such sheets have a greenish color and blue markings;
• Fire-resistant plasterboard is designated by the abbreviation GKLO. Some sources recommend it for tiling kitchens, but own experience I can say that there is no point in using it in city apartments at all. This material is good for cladding fireplaces and other similar structures. These sheets have a gray “shirt” and red markings;
• There is also universal plasterboard GKLVO, it is moisture and fire resistant. You can mount it virtually anywhere, but as you understand, the price of these sheets is much higher. Theoretically, it is well suited for the kitchen, but in practice, there is no point in paying for universal sheets if you can get by with simple moisture-resistant ones.

There are also GLV gypsum fiber sheets, but in our case they are not suitable for leveling walls without a frame.

Frameless installation methods

The use of one or another of the methods described below depends on how smooth your walls are. Conventionally, they can be divided into 3 categories:

• The first method is used for walls with smooth curvatures up to 5 mm;
• The second is intended for surfaces with curvature up to 20 mm;
• And the third is used on very curved surfaces with differences of up to 40 mm.

Important: it is believed that facing walls with plasterboard without a frame makes sense only if the differences in the plane do not exceed 40, maximum 50 mm. In all other cases, installation of a frame is required.

Surface preparation

Any construction works begin with preparing the base, but for installing drywall on walls without a frame, the base must be prepared especially carefully. Otherwise, you run the risk that over time, mold and mildew will grow wildly in the gaps between the wall and the sheets, and then asthma and allergies are not far away.

• If the wall is plastered, then first you need to carefully “tap” it to detect voids and peelings. When such are found, the plaster layer in these places should be completely knocked down to a solid base;
• There are times when you have to level old wall, on which there are already several layers of plaster applied in different time. Here, regardless of whether you find voids or not, it is advisable to completely remove all plaster layers. In this case, there is too high a chance that one of the old layers will fall behind over time and your new one will beautiful cladding may simply collapse;
• When you remove plaster or simply clean up problem areas, old cracks and sinkholes may open up on the walls. So, all of them will need to be widened and thoroughly cleaned, since there are almost certainly mold spores at the bottom of these cracks. I usually use a grinder for this, but if you don’t have one at hand, then you can get by with a chisel and a hammer;

• If there are oil stains on the wall, you can try to remove them ammonia or some similar reagent. Although personally I prefer not to mess with chemistry. It is much faster and more reliable to knock off the old plaster along with the oil stain and forget about the problem;
• Too large growths and bumps will also need to be knocked down. Simply put, your task is to make the wall relatively flat;
• This ends the first and, by the way, the dirtiest stage of preparation; then we move on to eliminating visible defects. But first you will need to sweep away the dust with a brush and go over the soil a couple of times;

Small construction dust need to be cleaned with a brush or damp cloth. Don't even think about using it for these purposes. household vacuum cleaner. At one time I stepped on this rake, as a result the vacuum cleaner burned out, and they charged so much for its repair that it was easier to buy a new one.

• If the walls are covered with plasterboard in a potentially dry room, then Betonkontakt can be used as a primer. For damp rooms it is better to use Tiefengrund. This composition significantly reduces the level of moisture absorption by the base. Naturally, in addition to these primers, there are many others, but I recommend those compositions that have already been tested;
• On last stage In preparation, you will need to putty all the deep sinks and previously cleaned cracks, and when the putty dries, walk over it with primer again;
• There are now more than enough different specialized putties on the market, but in the old fashioned way I prefer to use regular plaster for these purposes. Firstly, gypsum, or alabaster as it is also called, hardens within 15 - 20 minutes, and secondly, its strength is sufficient for such work. Plus, the price of alabaster is quite reasonable.

Method number 1: dealing with minor curvatures

Wall cladding with plasterboard has its own characteristics. So, no matter what leveling method you choose, the sheets should not fit tightly to the floor and ceiling. In these places a damper gap of approximately 5 - 10 mm is left.

It is necessary so that the sheets do not warp during temperature deformations or shrinkage of the building. And also for air access, because without it the construction adhesive will harden for a very long time. Upon completion of the work, the gap from below will be covered with a plinth, and the upper gap will need to be filled with elastic silicone.

As a rule, this method is used in cases where the wall is covered with many cracks, and House master he simply cannot, or does not want to plaster the entire surface with his own hands.

True, I have also come across such owners who, at any cost, want to make perfectly smooth walls. And assurances that a smooth drop of 5 mm is impossible to notice visually on the wall do not convince them. Roughly speaking, people simply have this “fad”; they cannot feel comfortable if they know that there is a slight imbalance somewhere.

First, you will need to use a level and plumb line to measure how even your corners are. The fact is that installation should begin from the most even angle, otherwise the distortion will be very difficult to correct later.

Ideally, for these purposes it is better to use laser level, but it costs serious money and in the absence of one, you can get by with an ordinary building level with a length of about 2 m. As a last resort, a simple plumb line will do, but here you will have to rely on the accuracy of your eye.

Often, for such work, sheets about 3 m high are used. Taking into account the fact that the ceiling height in most of our city apartments fluctuates around 2.5 m, you can completely cover the entire wall with one sheet.

For such work, I use Fugenfüller construction adhesive-putty; I see no point in writing about the technology for diluting it, because all such compositions must have detailed instructions.

When you get the glue into working condition, it is most convenient to apply it to the sheet with a notched trowel with a tooth depth of 5 - 10 mm. It makes sense to apply glue in a continuous ball over the entire sheet only if it is planned to lay tiles as the finishing cladding.

In dry rooms designed for painting or wallpapering, such an unprecedented waste of expensive glue is absolutely not justified. In this case, it will be enough to apply a strip 15–20 cm wide around the perimeter and at several points in the center of the sheet.

Naturally, before applying the glue, the sheet will need to be cut to size, taking into account the upper and lower damper gaps. To ensure the bottom gap, I simply place the sheet on the pads. As a rule, these are pieces of broken tiles or the same scraps of drywall.

When you apply the glue-coated sheet to the wall, it will need to be accurately aligned vertically. To be honest, this is the most important and difficult stage. Most craftsmen recommend tapping the sheet with a rubber hammer, or if your health allows you to gently press down or hit it with your fist, constantly checking the vertical with a level.

I do it a little differently. Drywall is a rather fragile thing and, without experience, it can easily be damaged by targeted blows. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, I first apply a long and wide metal rule to the convex place and hit it. Thus, the pressure is evenly distributed over the plane, and the sheet gently takes its place.

Method number 2: use beacons

Installing drywall on beacons is actually one of the varieties frame installation. Only a regular frame is assembled from UD and CD profiles. And here, instead of profiles, beacons are attached to the wall. This method is used for height differences of 5 mm or more.

Pre-cut squares from the same drywall are used as beacons. The length of the side of such a square usually fluctuates around 20 cm. Instead of squares, you can attach strips to the wall, but there is more fiddling with them.

To ensure uniform support, the beacons are installed strictly in squares, as shown in the diagram. The distance between the beacons is maintained in the region of 30–40 cm. The squares themselves are glued to the base with the same drywall adhesive.

Naturally, since our wall is crooked, each lighthouse will have different heights. One plate is placed on the most convex points. Further, depending on the size of the depressions, the number of plates increases.

This method is perfect for beginners. If, during continuous planting with glue, you have a maximum of 15 - 20 minutes to position the sheet, because then the glue will begin to harden, then the beacons can be slowly placed, without rushing anywhere. And when everything is perfect, simply prime and spread the pads with a thin layer of glue, and then carefully attach the sheet to them.

Method No. 3: installation with self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall to the wall with self-tapping screws without a frame is a fairly common practice. Just like the previous technology, it is used for large differences in height along the plane.

First, you measure and cut the sheet as usual. Next, place supports on the floor, place the sheet on them and try it on the wall, exactly as it will stand in the future. Now you will need to take a drill and drill about a dozen and a half holes for self-tapping screws, evenly distributing them over the entire plane. You need to drill through so that marks remain on the wall.

Drywall needs to be drilled with a thin drill. Later, when you screw self-tapping screws into these holes, they should not dangle.

After this, you remove the sheet to the side and, using the markings remaining from the thin drill, use a hammer drill and a drill with Pobedit soldering to drill a series of holes in the wall for plastic “quick installation” dowels and immediately insert these same dowels into them.

Now apply thick construction glue onto the wall in frequent “blots”. The thickness of the cakes should be approximately 10 - 15 mm greater than the planned border of the sheet. At the next stage, you apply the sheet to the wall and screw the screws into the holes.

As you tighten the screws, the sheet will gradually be pressed against the wall and seated on the glue. In this case, the plane and vertical are adjusted with self-tapping screws and the main thing here is not to overtighten.

In order to avoid accidentally tightening the self-tapping screw all the way and thus not bending the plane, you do not need to use a screwdriver. In this situation, it is better to take a regular screwdriver and slowly, constantly checking the plane for level, tighten the screws with your own hands.

What you definitely shouldn't do

Recently, while browsing information on the Internet, I came across another “interesting” method of installing drywall using self-tapping screws without a frame. Some unfortunate master was describing a supposedly working technology.

It all sounded something like this: first, as in the method described above, a sheet of drywall was tried on the wall. A series of holes were drilled in it, and then in the wall itself, into which plastic “quick installation” dowels were inserted.

After this, several foam rollers were glued to the inside of the sheet. According to the plan, they should act as shock absorbers when the sheet is leveled. Then, without any glue, the sheet was aligned vertically using self-tapping screws.

At the last stage, the most interesting thing happens: the author recommends drilling another hole with a diameter of about 10 - 15 mm next to the screws. And virtually blindly inject polyurethane foam into these holes. It is assumed that the foam should fill the voids and at the same time firmly glue the drywall to the wall.

I had a case when, while insulating a wooden door opening, I poured a little more polyurethane foam than necessary. So, during expansion, the foam moved a powerful wooden beam.

In our situation, I can say with full responsibility that if you pour polyurethane foam between the drywall and the wall, it will simply warp. As a result of pressure, the sheet will at least go in waves.

And if you make a mistake with the dosage and pour in too much foam, the sheet may even break or be torn off the screws, because they stand firmly. So keep in mind, polyurethane foam is a good thing, but you don’t need to pour it anywhere.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing drywall on walls without a frame is a completely doable task, even for an amateur. Of course, you need to act carefully. If you have no experience at all, then I would recommend that you pay attention to the installation of beacons.

In the photo and video in this article I placed useful information on this topic. If you have any questions, write in the comments and we’ll talk.