Caring for irises in autumn, fertilizing. Tips for productively preparing irises of different varieties for winter Caring for irises in the fall, pruning

Irises are not capricious flowering plants. But in order to achieve regular flowering during the summer season, gardeners will have to carry out some agrotechnical measures in the fall and prepare these rhizomatous and bulbous perennials for the coming winter.

Thanks to permanent job breeders, flower growers are offered large number varieties and hybrids of these flowers, both rhizomatous and bulbous. However, for some reason this particular view flowering plants included in the group of flowers that are slightly frost-resistant, constantly freeze out in frosty winters and are poorly adapted to the climatic conditions of most regions of Russia.

Therefore, beginning gardeners often hesitate to grow flowers in their flower beds, believing that they will not take root in their garden. But this is a mistaken opinion. Irises will overwinter well in open ground if measures are taken correctly in the fall to prepare the plants for the autumn-winter period.

What needs to be done to prepare irises for winter will be discussed below.

In the fall, the following work can and should be done to care for irises and prepare them for winter:

pruning;
feeding;
transplantation (if necessary);
shelter for the winter.

Each of these procedures will be described in detail below.

Pruning irises in autumn

Pruning irises in the fall is an important procedure. It helps prevent the development of seeds in the plant; their maturation will inhibit further flowering of these perennials, as it takes away some of the nutrients. In addition, ripened seeds will self-sow throughout the garden; subsequently, irises can grow in the most unexpected places. In autumn, dried leaves should also be removed., this preventive measure will protect plants from pests that can overwinter in it.

Do I need to prune irises for winter in the fall?

Irises must be pruned in the fall so that the plant remains without dried above-ground parts for the winter. The need for this procedure is obvious - dried flowers are removed along with peduncles, withered foliage in which pests can hide. In this case, it will be easier to cover the irises for the winter.

When is the best time to prune irises for the winter?

The procedure for pruning irises is carried out in the fall after the plants have completely bloomed and the peduncles and leaves have completely dried. green foliage removal is not recommended, since in the above-ground part of the plant after flowering the process of photosynthesis continues, allowing the root system (or bulbs) to recover after active flowering, as well as stock up on nutrients before the onset of frost. This reserve increases the resistance of the root system to frost.

Therefore, most optimal time When pruning irises for the winter - October, local climatic conditions should be taken into account, because any plants must be pruned several weeks before the onset of frost.

Pruning irises after flowering for the winter

After the irises bloom (ending in early autumn), all dried flowers should be trimmed, and all ripening seed pods should be removed. You should also remove stems and flower stalks after the plants have completely bloomed. The foliage is removed after it becomes withered and lies completely on the ground.

Video: pruning irises after flowering for the winter

How to prune irises for the winter

You should have sharp garden shears or pruning shears for pruning.- blunt garden tool can damage the stems, which will contribute to the rotting of the remaining above-ground parts of these flowers. Dried flowers and ovules can be trimmed or simply plucked off by hand. Flower stalks of plants are cut off at the root.

Dried stems and flower stalks are trimmed with garden shears, leaving stems about 3 cm high.

Withered foliage is cut off at a height of about 13-15 cm, giving the plant a cone-shaped shape. The foliage is cut off in the first ten days of October.

Care after pruning

Typically, after flowering has finished, such plants should not be watered frequently; a couple of waterings during the autumn season are sufficient. And if autumn is rainy, then these perennials should not be watered additionally.

Important! These plants do not tolerate well organic fertilizers, so they should not be fertilized with manure or chicken droppings.

The best fertilizers for irises are mineral. However, it should be remembered that nitrogen is applied to these flowers only before flowering begins. But in the fall, two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, these flowering perennials are fertilized with complex mineral fertilizer, which includes any potassium salts and superphosphate. However, it should be remembered that if fertilizing is applied after pruning, then at least 14 days must remain before the onset of frost.

Sheltering irises for the winter

Wintering of these flowering perennials should be successful, therefore, when preparing plants, you should take into account the climatic conditions of the area, how cold or little snow the winters are. But recently the climate in most regions of our country is unpredictable. Therefore, it is better to plant delicate varieties in the southern regions. And for the middle zone, the Volga region, the Urals and Siberia, select frost-resistant iris hybrids, which have been tested for resistance to frost in a particular region. And it is better to purchase hybrids grown by Russian breeders for planting in these regions.

In the southern regions, plants of any variety and hybrids are not covered for the winter. But in colder regions, it is necessary to know exactly which types of irises growing in the flower garden require mandatory shelter for the winter.

How to properly cover irises for the winter

Frost-resistant varieties do not need to be completely covered for the winter. But all flowers planted or transplanted this season must be covered before the onset of cold weather.

But even if the aboveground part of these flowering perennials is not covered for the winter, then they the root system still requires shelter. Therefore, in the fall, the ground around these flowers is covered with a layer of mulch 20-25 cm thick. Dry soil, low-lying peat, and well-rotted humus can be used as mulching material.

The above-ground part of less frost-resistant varieties of irises should be covered with spruce branches or other similar material, which must be dry.

Video: how and with what to cover irises for the winter

Something to remember! You cannot use straw, hay, or leaves to cover irises for the winter. This type of shelter may rot when the weather thaws. As a result, mold may develop on the above-ground parts of these flowers, and various diseases (mainly fungal) may appear.

Also n You should not rush to cover irises for the winter. If the weather is quite changeable - either cold or thawed, too large a layer of covering material can lead to damping off of the roots. And as a result, the plant may die.

In the spring you should not remove the shelter from these flowering perennials too early, otherwise new frosts may damage the flowers. But it is advisable to slightly lift the spruce branches to ventilate these bushes a little.

Features of sheltering irises for the winter in different regions: Moscow region, Volga region, Siberia and the Urals

IN different regions The thickness of the shelter and its layer depend on specific climatic conditions. Therefore, the nuances of preparing crops for winter in different regions of our country should be taken into account.

Video: preparing irises for winter

In the middle zone (Moscow region) Winters are quite cold, but there is not always enough snow. Therefore, you can cover the root system of irises with a layer of dry soil when the thermometer drops below 0 C. And the spruce branches should be placed on top of the frozen ground.

In the Volga region Winters are often unpredictable - there is warm weather for too long (until the end of November), and then frosts can hit - but there is no snow. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the weather and cover the irises on time.

In the Urals Where winters are cold, it is imperative to cover all types of plants (even frost-resistant ones).

In Siberia Irises are usually covered for the winter so that the inside of the shelter is dry. To do this, spruce branches or other covering material are covered wooden box or a regular bucket. And if snow falls from above during the winter, it will serve as additional insulation during periods of severe frost.

Caring for irises during the fall and preparing these flowers for winter are important activities, without which it is impossible to achieve active flowering of these beautiful perennials in subsequent seasons.

Many gardeners send iris for the winter according to the principle “it will dry out and fall off.” This is a fundamentally wrong approach, because it is extremely risky - yes, winter-hardy irises can cope, but flowers of more delicate varieties will certainly suffer.

It is not difficult to get lost in the variety of iris varieties - all shades from snow-white to almost black and all sizes from crumbs barely rising from the grass to giants the size of a first-grader will confuse even an experienced florist. But preparing irises for winter is the same for all types and varieties, both bulbous and rhizomatous.

Pruning irises

Iris leaves, dried out and rotten at the edges, often become a haven for pathogens, as well as a wintering place for harmful insects. In order not to breed in own garden problems, the leaves must be cut to a height of 10-15 cm and removed from the site.

If we talk about when to prune irises for the winter, then you should focus on your region. In the middle zone, this is done before the first frost, in early November. Accordingly, in the north you can start earlier, in the south – later. If you don’t want to guess the timing and monitor the weather forecast, cut off the leaves of irises during the rainy season - this will provide the plant with better ventilation and prevent water from stagnating in the roots.

You need to trim the flowers along with the ovules on irises immediately after flowering, and two weeks after that, the flower stems themselves. No more than 2 cm should remain from the peduncles - this will avoid rotting.

Planting and replanting irises in autumn

Irises can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, if you want bulbous irises to surely delight you with flowering next season, then give preference autumn planting.

All types of irises grow, bloom and overwinter better when planted in an elevated, well-ventilated, illuminated place. They do not like stagnant moisture or dense soils, so for an iridarium you should choose an area with well-drained soil.

Autumn planting and replanting of irises is carried out immediately after the leaves of the plant have dried. The bulbs are cleaned of soil, the baby is separated, then planting material dried and planted in a new place at the end of September or beginning of October. Warm time The plants are used for years to take root, but they do not have time to grow.

Before planting, all bulbs should be cleaned of old skin and disinfected.

After division, rhizomatous irises are planted in the same way. Moreover, both of these freshly transplanted flowers must be covered for the winter, regardless of their variety, because they are still too weak to overwinter on their own.

Sheltering irises for the winter

The winter hardiness of irises, and therefore the need for shelter for the winter, depends on their variety and type. The most fragile and delicate are the bulbous Dutch, Japanese and Spanish varieties (Wedgwood, Cajanus), rhizomatous irises (combed iris, nameless iris, lake iris), as well as all tall varieties of bearded iris.

Iridodictiums (Vinogradov's iris, Dunford's iris, reticulated iris), as well as British bulbous varieties, are more resistant to our winters. Of the rhizomatous irises, this group includes leafless iris, Bieberstein iris and dwarf iris.

And finally, wild beardless irises (Siberian iris, marsh iris, bristly iris, oriental iris and yellow iris) overwinter quietly even in the harshest years.

Before covering the irises for the winter, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing and treat the top of the rhizomes and the remains of the leaves with fungicides (Alirin-B, Baktofit, Vectra, Gamair, etc.). But if you decide to feed irises for the winter, then choose a mineral complex without nitrogen.

If the irises of the third group can be sent for winter after pruning and processing without additional effort, then with the first two you will have to tinker. It is necessary to cover irises for the winter with the onset of frost, when the rainy period has come to an end, i.e. approximately in the middle - second half of November. It is not worth doing this earlier, because during rainfall the covered irises may dry out. Peat, humus, shavings or straw are perfect for shelter. Cover the iris so that there is a 10-centimeter loose layer above the bulbs or roots, and place spruce branches on top.

If you notice that bulbous irises of some varieties in your area regularly freeze, treat them as you would with gladioli - dig them up for the winter. This should be done after the leaves have completely dried. Trimmed and insecticide-treated bulbs must be dried for a month at a temperature of about 25°C and then stored in a cool, dry room.

Even winter-hardy varieties rhizomatous irises must be covered in the first year of life and after 4-5 years of age, when the roots begin to protrude from the ground.

In spring, irises wake up early and calmly tolerate temperature changes, so you can remove their cover as soon as the snow melts in the garden. Under the daytime sun, you can easily discover all the problems that have arisen over the winter. Perhaps the shelter did not help, and part of the iris still froze. Then he will need treatment:

carefully remove all the mush of dead leaves, scrubbing it down to a hard tissue;
treat the cut of the leaf with a solution of potassium permanganate of a rich wine color;
Sprinkle the wounds with ash or crushed coal.

This treatment will allow the iris to bloom this year and prevent the process of rotting from starting.

You can always say, “Why do I need this effort? Irises will bloom without them!” But believe me, when you see how grateful these plants can be and how magnificently and amicably they bloom after a carefree winter, you will not even remember the time spent.

For centuries, the iris has inspired artists and poets thanks to its grace and sophistication. In Ancient Rome it was considered the flower of philosophers; in legends and myths it was called the rainbow flower. According to one version, the graceful iris owes its name to the goddess Iris, who descended to earth along the rainbow. One day the rainbow crumbled into pieces, which sprouted flowers of a wide variety of shades. Translated from Greek, “iris” means “rainbow”.

Blooming clumps of these flowers add aristocracy and uniqueness to garden compositions. Irises perfectly fill the gap between blooming early spring and summer flowers. They usually begin to bloom from the second half of May to July. At correct selection varieties You can get flowering that lasts up to two months.

Iris division

You can replant or divide a bearded or any other iris from early spring to autumn, but the most the right time for this - two to three weeks after flowering. During this period, roots appear on the lateral growths and the division can be broken off without even digging up the main rhizome. However, division can be done later. The main thing is that the plant takes root before the onset of persistent frost (rooting usually takes a little more than a month). If you have to plant irises late, it is better to protect them with covering material.

Irises are divided not only for propagation, but also for the healing and rejuvenation of uterine bushes.

When replanting, the bush is usually dug up completely and links at least two centimeters long with a fan of leaves are separated from the rhizome. They are called delenki. The leaves of the divisions are shortened into a cone shape by a third of the length.

If for some reason you do not need to dig up the entire bush, you can separate the links from the mother plant without removing the iris from the ground. In this case, the division is cut off sharp knife and digs in with a shovel.

Selection of planting material

A high-quality cutting has a well-developed central fan and a segment of rhizome with well-formed replacement buds. Planting cuttings consisting of sections of rhizome with a faded peduncle, and without young growth, is risky. The fan bearing the peduncle dies after flowering and the division may die.

To get flowering faster, you need to choose large cuttings. It will take about another year to grow small specimens, but even standard divisions of irises only bloom in half the cases the next year after planting.

Good planting material should be without mechanical damage and dents, and also have a dense rhizome. The cut area is either powdered with crushed coal or covered with thin skin.

Purchased sections are stored in a dry, dark place without packaging. They can be stored this way for a month.

Preparing for landing

Before planting, the iris is dried in the sun during the day. The roots are shortened to ten centimeters. Root system when planting, it will play the role of an anchor - it is needed to keep the plant in the ground, but in the future it will no longer grow. Over time, new roots grow and old ones die off.

If desired, you can stimulate the process of formation of new shoots. To do this, before planting, a large rhizome must be cut to a depth of 1 cm in two places and then dried. As a result, when good care You can get about 5 children per year unlike the usual two.

Irises feel comfortable in dry conditions open area or in a slightly shaded place. These flowers are well replanted in neutral soils that are not too rich in organic matter.

Ways to improve soil:

if the soil in the garden is heavy, it can be improved by adding sand and peat;
to reduce acidity, lime and ash are added to the soil;
V sandy soil add a little clay and rotted manure.

It is also important to thoroughly clear the area where the irises will be planted of weeds.

Landing

Plant the iris in carefully dug soil with a spade. Humus and superphosphate are added. A mound is poured at the bottom of the planting hole, where the flower is placed. The plant is positioned so that the rhizome is in a horizontal position on the soil surface, while the fan of leaves should be positioned vertically.

There is no need to deepen the rhizome too much; it must breathe. Otherwise, the plant may not bloom or even rot and die. It is better to secure the planted division with a pin or bracket.

Immediately after planting, irises are not watered, as excess moisture will prevent the plants from taking root.

Irises don't like neighbors. To prevent the plant from being oppressed, it needs to be given a spacious living area. Every year, irises grow due to the growth of new annual rhizome links. In order for plants to grow towards each other, they are planted in checkerboard pattern. The recommended distance between specimens is 50 cm. While the newly planted irises are still small, the space between them can be filled with annuals to maintain the appearance of the flowerbed.

Caring for irises in autumn

In the fall, the plant should be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers so that the flower can easily withstand the cold and enjoy abundant flowering next year.

Watering at this time is moderate.

Particular attention is paid to pruning. Faded and wilted buds are removed to improve the appearance of the plant and prevent the formation of seeds, the ripening of which requires a lot of effort.

Pruning irises in the fall requires compliance with certain rules:

wilted flowers are removed using clean, sharp scissors or simply with your hands;
pinch off or cut off the flower immediately behind the bud, and not only the dry petals, but also the receptacle;
at the end of flowering, you need to remove the flower stem to avoid rotting, while leaving the leaves so that the beneficial substances from them gradually pass into the rhizome;
when the leaves wither, they are cut off at a level of approximately 15 cm from the ground.

Preparing for winter

At the end of August you can already begin preparing irises for winter. The pruning time is over, it’s time to protect the plant from dampness and rain, especially dry-loving species, by covering them with film.

Whether to cover irises for the winter depends on the variety. Tender specimens from southern latitudes can be covered with spruce branches and then with lutrasil.

Simple rules for caring for these magnificent flowers will allow them to bloom profusely and luxuriantly, decorating your garden for a long time.

Different types of irises are distinguished by their winter hardiness and, accordingly, have different requirements for care. autumn period. The greatest winter hardiness is characteristic of Siberian irises, which are grown throughout Russia without shelter. Bearded irises are more capricious; their rhizomes protruding to the surface can be damaged by frost.

When purchasing new varieties, you can personally check how well the irises will respond to care in the fall. Preparation for winter determines not only the safety of young plants, but also the likelihood and splendor of flowering. Autumn plantings require close attention, as even when fully rooted, they are more sensitive to extreme conditions. The work of preparing irises for winter is not labor-intensive and not complicated. You just need to remember a few useful tips.

Features of care in the autumn

At good growth a healthy adult plant should have a powerful bunch of 7 - 9 leaves with a uniform waxy coating. Oppressed and diseased plants have a low chance of survival, but we must fight for them. Irises do not like organic fertilizers in the form of manure or bird droppings, but respond well to fertilizing with mineral complex fertilizers. Here it is important to follow a rule that is important for all garden flowers: nitrogen can be applied only in the spring and before flowering, and after flowering and during autumn planting, only phosphorus and potassium can be used.

After flowering, the leaves of irises begin to die, which greatly spoils the appearance of the flowerbed. But you should not rush to remove them. At the end of summer, the withered leaves on the periphery are cut off, shortening the still green ones in the center by half. If you do not touch the dying leaves at all, they will become a repository of spores and a source of infection next year. In autumn, the leaves are completely cut off and burned.

Autumn - good time for planting and replanting old bushes.

Bearded irises need to change their growing location every 4 - 5 years, otherwise there is a high probability of developing diseases, and overgrown and thickened bushes will no longer please with beautiful and abundant flowering. In addition, when planting, irises are transferred to new nutrient soil.
Beardless species can remain in one place for up to 10 years. After division, the rhizome should be treated with potassium permanganate or a fungicide. If there is a suspicion that the soil in a new area is contaminated with pathogens, it is recommended to spill it with a specialized solution containing a complex of beneficial microorganisms (Fitosporin, Baikal, etc.).

Siberian iris

Preparing irises for winter

Mature bushes of released varieties of bearded irises can remain unsheltered in winter, but many hybrids and first-year plantings require additional protection from low temperatures. Mulch from dry fallen leaves, which it is advisable to collect under forest trees, will reliably protect, as on the leaves fruit trees Spores of pathogenic fungi may persist. The leaf cushion is pressed with spruce branches on top. Some gardeners recommend simply covering it with soil, but removing such a shelter will not be convenient.

In early spring, after the snow melts, the shelter must be turned with a pitchfork to create air chambers for ventilation to prevent the development of mold and rot. The shelter is completely removed after installation positive temperatures. Irises begin to grow early, so do not delay in removing the mulch to open the rhizomes.

Beardless types of irises have good winter hardiness. However, some varieties of bulbous irises may have insufficient frost resistance and also need shelter.

How useful was the information for you?

Irises are often planted in flower beds because, thanks to their variety of colors and graceful shape, they stand out against the background of other flowers. In general, irises are unpretentious, but in order to enjoy their beauty every year, you need to provide them with a safe winter. In this article we will tell you how to prepare irises for winter and what you will need for this event.

To properly prepare plants for winter, you need to perform a set of care procedures in the fall. In order for the iris to safely survive even severe frosts, pruning is done first.

Trimming and cleaning

Plants are prepared properly before covering. The basis of the procedure is pruning the leaves and flowers of plants, ensuring optimal wintering. Its purpose is to prevent the development of seeds. This helps conserve nutrients that would otherwise be wasted on seed maturation. In addition, the wind carries the seeds around the site, and in the spring you may find irises grown in “wrong” places.

What is being removed? The first step is to trim the dried foliage. The operation prevents the appearance of pests that overwinter in it. Flowers along with peduncles and seed boxes are also removed. Peduncles are cut at the root, flowers can be trimmed or torn off, dried stems are cut at a height of 3 cm, and leaves - 13-15 cm.

Do not trim green leaves. They let your beauties accumulate nutrients which they need for successful wintering. Wait until the plants have completely bloomed, the leaves wither and wither, and completely fall to the ground. The procedure is recommended to be carried out in October, but you also need to focus on weather conditions in your area. If frosts occur earlier than expected, take care to prepare the plants in advance.

Thus, the procedure involves cleaning the flower from all unnecessary elements, leaving only a short stem, leaf trimmings and root. Do not be afraid to prune, because with the arrival of spring the iris will come to life again.

Fertilizer application

This procedure is mandatory, since applying fertilizers helps plants accumulate nutrients for wintering. This will also provide abundant flowering in the spring.

What do they contribute? There are two options - phosphorus-potassium fertilizing or complex fertilizer.

First option. Phosphorus and potassium are used because they help the flower strengthen its immunity and form a sufficient number of buds in the coming season. For feeding you will need 45-60 g of superphosphates and 25-30 g of potassium salt for each square meter. Pre-moisten the soil under the flowers, and then simply sprinkle fertilizer and loosen the soil after the procedure.
The second option is simpler. It is necessary to dilute the fertilizer with water in the proportion specified in the instructions. Irises are watered with this solution.

Video: “Preparing irises for winter”

From this video you will learn how to properly prepare irises for the winter.

Shelter of flowers

A novice gardener may have doubts: is it necessary to cover irises for the winter and in what cases is such work necessary? It all depends on several factors:

Variety There are frost-resistant varieties of this flower that tolerate frost relatively easily and do not require shelter. Delicate varieties will definitely need shelter.
Region. In the southern regions there is no need to cover flowers. But in cold areas this procedure is necessary.

Below we will consider methods of shelter and other nuances.

To insulate or not

There are a number of varieties that can withstand wintering relatively easily and therefore do not require shelter. Wild species that tolerate cold well include Siberian iris, bristly iris, oriental iris, and yellow iris. From varieties resistant to low temperatures, we highlight the following:

Webesh;
Dipute Nomblo;
White City;
Isoline;
Lieutenant A. Williamson;
Perfecta.

They tolerate frost well without shelter. However, they are still mulched so that the root system is not damaged.

Hybrid varieties, for example, bearded iris and others like it, are less resistant to cold. Therefore, they are covered without fail. In addition, young flowers (regardless of the variety), as well as plants that were transplanted this year, are subject to shelter.

Shelter materials and techniques

It is important to choose dry material, otherwise, under the influence of moisture, the irises will rot and rot before spring arrives. Fallen leaves and straw are absolutely not suitable. Although some recommend using oak leaves because they absorb moisture well.

Suitable material is spruce branches or wooden boards, from which they construct a box and cover the plants with it. It is also recommended to use peat or humus as a covering material.

There should be a ten-centimeter layer of soil above the bulbs and roots, and on top they are covered with the selected material. It is important not to start the procedure too early, otherwise the roots may dry out. You need to remove the shelter in a timely manner; you should not do this immediately after the first warming, as unexpected frosts will ruin your efforts.

Sheltering irises in different regions of the country

As we mentioned earlier, in the southern regions of our country, irises are only mulched and not covered. Such regions are those where the temperature does not drop too low and there is a lot of snow that does not melt until spring.

But in cold parts of the country it is imperative to cover the flowers. Such regions include Leningrad region, Moscow region and the entire middle zone. There are strong temperature changes and strong winds here. complete absence snow. The covering material must be dense to protect the plants from the icy air. In the Urals, Siberia and other cold regions of Russia, it is generally better not to choose very delicate and capricious varieties for planting, or to cover them very carefully, pouring a dense layer of mulch on the roots and covering them with thick insulation on top.

So, we have looked at the main features of pruning and other measures to prepare irises for winter. Now you know what to do. And let your garden become even more attractive next spring.

Different types of irises experience winter differently, since not all of them are equally frost-resistant. But all flowers need good care in the autumn, which guarantees a safe winter, as well as subsequent bright and luxurious flowering.

Features of autumn care for irises

Caring for irises in autumn consists of the following activities:

pruning;
feeding;
preventative treatment;
shelter for the winter.

In autumn, irises need to be well prepared for wintering.

Pruning irises before wintering

Faded flower stalks of irises are removed almost immediately after flowering ends. It is not recommended to cut the foliage until it withers itself. In the green above-ground part, photosynthesis processes continue, promoting the accumulation of nutrients in the rhizomes, so it cannot be removed.

Peduncles should be cut out immediately after flowering to prevent the formation of a seed pod.

Yellowed leaves are cut off in September or October, depending on the local climate. The fan of leaf plates is shortened to a height of 12–15 cm from ground level, trying to give it the shape of a house roof so that moisture flows down better and does not linger on the cuts.

The leaves of irises are cut off after they wither and turn a little yellow.

All trimmed foliage must be burned, since various harmful insects and pathogens of fungal infections settle in it for the winter.

Iris leaves are cut at an angle

Video: trimming irises correctly

Autumn feeding of irises

Like most garden crops, irises are fed with fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group in the autumn. It is better to do this after pruning, about 2-3 weeks before the first firm frost.

Wood ash is scattered on the bed between the plants

Irises respond well to application (per 1 m2):

Phosphate fertilizers:
- superphosphate - 45–60 g;
- phosphate rock - 150–200 g (no more than once every 4–5 years).
Potassium fertilizers:
- potassium salt - 25–30 g;
- wood ash - 200–250 g.
Mineral complexes:
- potassium monophosphate - 45–50 g;
- phosphorus-potassium mixture - 50–55 g;
- specialized complex fertilizers for flower crops.

Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed over the previously well-moistened soil under the iris bushes, and then the soil is slightly loosened and granules are embedded into it to a depth of 2–3 cm.

Granules of mineral fertilizers are scattered under the irises and embedded in the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm

In the fall, during the period of going to bed, irises should not be fertilized with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as with organic matter (manure, fresh unrotted compost, chicken droppings), so as not to provoke untimely growth of the ground part. Excess nutrition can cause rotting of the rhizome.

Photo gallery: feeding for irises in autumn

Gera Flower Universal - mixed fertilizer for basic application and fertilizing on all types of soils of annual and perennial flowering plants, as well as ornamental flowering shrubs Potassium salt has long been used as a fertilizer; this product is a mixture of potassium chloride, sylvinite and kainite Wood ash is a good potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for acidic or neutral soils Phosphate rock is a long-lasting fertilizer; it can be applied once every 4–5 years in increased doses without fear of harmful effects on plants Potassium monophosphate - mineral fertilizer, containing nutrients necessary for full growth Fertilizer Autumn universal Terrasol - mixed mineral fertilizer with microelements for feeding in the autumn for fruits and berries, bulbs and flower and ornamental crops Fasco Autumn is used at the very end of the growing season Fertika Autumn is a complex mineral fertilizer for feeding all types of plants in the late summer and autumn seasons. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer does not contain nitrogen Liquid complex fertilizer Bona Forte Autumn is intended for feeding ornamental shrubs And perennial plants Fertilizer Clean slate for flower beds and rockeries - a concentrated mineral fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for plant nutrition in accessible forms

Preventive treatment of irises against diseases and pests

Fungal spores persist for a long time on withered and decaying foliage, and pests that have settled in for the winter can also be found on them. For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed:

Fungicides:
- Tsineb - 45–50 g per bucket;
- Fundazol - 30–35 g per bucket;
- Bordeaux mixture (1%), etc.
Insecticides:
- Malathion (Karbofos) - 60 g per 8 l;
- Actellik - 2 ml per 2 l;
- Aktara - 8–10 g per 10 l, etc.

Preventative treatments chemicals carried out after autumn pruning of irises.

For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed against pests and diseases.

Opponents of chemistry can pollinate plants with tobacco dust or wood ash powder. An infusion of onion peels (0.2 kg poured into 10 l) will also scare away unwanted residents hot water for 4–5 days).

Photo gallery: preparations for processing irises

Aktara drug - strong systemic insecticide fast acting Actellik is used to treat gardening, agricultural and ornamental plants Bordeaux mixture is a drug that is used against pests and many fungal diseases of plants Malathion is a broad-spectrum insecticide and acaricide Fundazol is a broad-spectrum fungicide (antifungal agent) for plant protection Zineb is a protective fungicide that prevents the development and spread of various diseases

Sheltering irises for the winter

Many varieties of this flower crop have sufficient frost resistance to successfully survive the cold in open ground without additional insulation. Therefore, in the southern regions with a mild climate they are not covered for the winter. In the northern regions, where climatic conditions are much more severe, it is imperative to protect plants.

In warm climates, irises overwinter without shelter.

Quite often, during the growing season, the roots of irises become exposed and part of the rhizome is exposed. In the fall, you need to carefully examine all the plants and, if necessary, sprinkle the bare parts with garden soil. Young and recently transplanted specimens are subject to mandatory shelter.

Rhizomes that are above the ground must be covered with earth.

Protect beds with irises by laying a mulch layer (5–20 cm) from the following materials:

rotted manure or compost;
peat crumbs;
mixtures of sand and earth (1:1);
sawdust

It is extremely important that the mulch is dry. I try not to use fallen leaves, hay or straw, which easily rot when wet and are a source of mold and various fungal diseases. Rhizomes, coming into contact with damp covering material, can die and rot.

For the winter, irises are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, pieces of bark, etc.

To ensure better snow retention, beds with irises are covered with branches, spruce branches or even tops.

In the northernmost regions, irises are covered with thick mulch. non-woven material or cover with boxes (boxes).

Additionally, irises are covered with spruce branches

Video: rules for successful wintering of irises

Video: subtleties of pre-winter preparation of irises

Strong and well-prepared irises for winter will easily survive the cold season, in the spring they will begin to grow early and subsequently produce powerful flower stalks with large buds.

It’s not difficult to get lost in the variety of iris varieties - all shades from snow-white to almost black and all sizes from crumbs barely rising from the grass to giants the size of a first-grader will confuse even an experienced florist. But preparing irises for winter is the same for all types and varieties, both bulbous and rhizomatous.

Pruning irises

Iris leaves, dried out and rotten at the edges, often become a haven for pathogens, as well as a wintering place for harmful insects. In order not to create problems in your own garden, the leaves must be cut to a height of 10-15 cm and removed from the site.

If we talk about when to prune irises for the winter, then you should focus on your region. In the middle zone, this is done before the first frost, in early November. Accordingly, in the north you can start earlier, in the south - later. If you don’t want to guess the timing and monitor the weather forecast, cut off the leaves of irises during the rainy season - this will provide the plant with better ventilation and prevent water from stagnating in the roots.

Planting and replanting irises in autumn

Irises can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, if you want bulbous irises to surely delight you with flowering next season, then give preference to autumn planting.

Autumn planting and replanting of irises is carried out immediately after the leaves of the plant have dried. The bulbs are cleared of soil, the baby is separated, then the planting material is dried and planted in a new place at the end of September or beginning of October. Plants use the warm season to take root, but do not have time to grow.

Before planting, all bulbs should be cleaned of old skin and disinfected.

Sheltering irises for the winter

The winter hardiness of irises, and therefore the need for shelter for the winter, depends on their variety and type. The most fragile and delicate are the Dutch, Japanese and Spanish bulbous varieties ( Wedgwood, Cajanus), rhizomatous irises (crested iris, nameless iris, lake iris), as well as all tall varieties bearded iris.

And finally, wild beardless irises (Siberian iris, marsh iris, bristly iris, oriental iris and yellow iris) overwinter quietly even in the harshest years.

Even winter-hardy varieties of rhizomatous irises must be covered in the first year of life and after 4-5 years of age, when the roots begin to protrude from the ground.

carefully remove all the mush of dead leaves, scrubbing it down to a hard tissue;
treat the cut of the leaf with a solution of potassium permanganate of a rich wine color;
Sprinkle the wounds with ash or crushed coal.

This treatment will allow the iris to bloom this year and prevent the process of rotting from starting.

You can always say: “Why do I need this effort? Irises will bloom without them!” But believe me, when you see how grateful these plants can be and how magnificently and amicably they bloom after a carefree winter, you will not even remember the time spent.

Irises are bulbous and rhizomatous plants that, with good care, can grow in one place for quite a long time, without even degrading in the quality and abundance of flowers. And at the same time, they can, like all other bulbous plants, be dug up in the fall and stored until spring planting V open ground. Especially in the southern regions, as long as there is enough sun and even with minimal moisture, iris clumps continue to grow and bloom for a long time even in abandoned areas. But you can’t spoil porridge with oil, and irises react so gratefully to our “oil”, they bloom profusely beautiful flowers that you can’t take your eyes off them.

Often, many gardeners, including myself at first, consider plants to be so unpretentious that, having planted them in the ground and occasionally watering them, they leave them to their botanical fate. And then they notice with annoyance why that soft pink iris disappeared even in the mild southern winter?

Everything is clear: some varieties turn out to be winter-hardy, and quite the opposite - others require a special culture for their cultivation. Here we face a tough question: to have or not to have? If you have them, you must respect their botany and promptly observe all stages of the growing season of your favorite irises.

Thanks to the attention of breeders and amateur flower growers, as well as the universal love for these plants, they are currently represented in country, garden and city flower beds in a huge number: from dwarf and royal to aquatic and semi-aquatic representatives. But proper care for irises in the fall and the basic preparation of irises for winter is the same for both bulbous and rhizomatous ones.

In addition to the fact that dry iris leaves look bad, they also provide shelter for wintering insects and pathogens. Therefore, there is a reason to get rid of them in a timely manner and trim them with very sharp garden shears to a height of 10-15 centimeters. As usual, the waste from this procedure should be burned in a special device.

When to prune irises for the winter

There are no exact dates, but you can focus on the climatic features of your region. In the southern regions this can be postponed until the end of November, and in Middle lane In Russia, irises can be pruned before the first frost, which most often occurs at the beginning of November. Northern regions may require this to be done a month earlier.

If you do not tie the pruning of irises to any time limits, then it is quite advisable to time this work to rainy weather, when the plant needs increased ventilation to prevent waterlogging of the root system.

Follow appearance Irises should be immediately after flowering, 2 weeks after its completion, and all faded shoots should be cut off, leaving no more than 2 centimeters from the base to prevent rotting of the bush.

Like many flowers, irises can be planted and replanted in both spring and autumn. But floriculture practice shows that when planted in autumn, iris bulbs will bloom fully and amicably in the first season. Completely dried iris leaves will indicate that it is time to transplant and plant them, and these functions are an integral part of caring for irises in the fall.

Begin by carefully digging out the rhizome, which is divided into bulbs. Everything is cleared of soil, the baby is separated. The resulting planting material is dried for about 1 month, and at the end of September-beginning of October it is planted in prepared soil so that the plants have time to take root reliably before noticeable frosts.

This flower crop of all varieties and types prefers to grow and flourish in at its best in well-lit, fertile, properly drained and ventilated areas.

Rhizome species of irises are propagated by dividing the bush and planted in open ground according to the same rules and at the same time as all other irises. It is important to cover newly transplanted and rooted irises, both bulbous and rooted, for the winter so that they can survive such a natural test as severe, prolonged frosts.

For regions with frosty winters, it is more advisable to give preference to cold-resistant varieties of irises, iridodictiums: Vinogradov's iris, Dunford's iris, reticulated iris and British bulbous varieties; rhizomatous irises: leafless iris, Bibirstein iris, dwarf iris.

In difficult climatic conditions, with severe frosty winters, iris lovers can be offered the cultivation of wild species of beardless irises: Siberian iris, marsh iris, oriental iris and yellow iris - thanks to their natural frost-resistant properties, they tolerate any frost, gratefully blooming in the spring.

Preparing irises for winter

You should start by carefully loosening the row spacing to avoid mechanical damage to the iris rhizomes. Next or at the same time, treat the upper part of the plants, removing dry leaves, with fungicides of your choice: Alirin-B, Baktofit, Vectra, Gamair and others. It will also be useful to correctly feed irises for the winter to support their vegetative forces in the coming winter period one of the, according to the instructions, which does not contain nitrogen, which stimulates growth.

How and with what to cover irises for winter

Wild irises growing on the site should be subjected to all the measures listed above and left for the winter without shelter. The remaining varieties and species need shelter, which is appropriate to do with the onset of frost and the end of heavy rains. This is approximately the middle or second half of November, in more northern areas - depending on the climate. Premature covering is fraught with soaking and rotting of the root system of these plants. You can cover with improvised materials using peat, a 10-centimeter layer of which covers the rhizomes of irises. To insulate and preserve the air cushion, it is best to cover the top with spruce branches.

It is necessary to cover for the winter even frost-resistant varieties of annual irises even when the rhizomes reach the age of 4-5 years, which have already begun to protrude from the soil, because both the first and second can suffer during strong and protracted and, especially, little snow winters.

If your garden collection contains particularly delicate and frost-resistant irises, then you can preserve them in the same way as all bulbous garden flowers, whose bulbs overwinter outside the soil, for example, dahlias and gladioli. In dry weather, immediately after the leaves dry, they should be dug up, trimmed, treated with insecticides and, if necessary, fungicides and, after drying in the open air for a month at a temperature of about +25 C, stored until spring planting in open ground in a cool, dry room. .

The shelter you have built, taking into account the early biological awakening of irises, can be removed immediately after the snow melts. You should not be afraid of slight return frosts - irises are adapted to changes in spring temperatures and will normally begin to actively grow.

If it turns out that the irises did suffer during the harsh wintering period, then they need to be treated according to indications: clean the upper part of the frozen rhizome to hard tissue. Thoroughly treat the resulting wounds with a rich, wine-colored aqueous solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle crushed black activated carbon or organic ash on top. All these timely measures will allow you to defeat the rotting process that has begun and the iris to develop in all its glory.

The ones listed in this article have been tested by the extensive experience of many flower growers and serve only as advice for you, the task of using which you will, of course, decide on your own. We can say with confidence that you will not regret it - you will be rewarded with a lush, long-lasting flowering of any variety of iris that is unusually beautiful and mysterious in its structure. Good luck and be bold!