What material is better to insulate a house. The better way to insulate a house from the outside. Methods and procedures for wall insulation

Many people who own their own homes are concerned about the question of how to properly insulate the outside of their home. For those who live in a city apartment, this problem is not relevant. Owners of such premises decide to tackle this issue extremely rarely, since insulating the walls of the house from the outside can only be done with the involvement of industrial climbers (if the housing is not on the ground floor). Or by spending a fairly large amount of money on this work. But many people own country real estate. In your own home, of course, you need to create comfortable conditions not just inside. Later in the article we will talk about how to insulate a house from the outside.

General information

Oddly enough, not everyone understands that insulating a home is necessary not only to create comfort. The use of protective materials can significantly reduce heating costs. After all, in an insulated house there is no need to constantly use additional funds heating in the cold season. As a rule, electrical appliances are used. This, in turn, entails an increase in payments for electricity supply. In addition, in a room with low temperature appear favorable conditions for the development of fungus and mold. Makes the situation worse and high humidity. As a result, walls, ceilings, and furniture become covered with mold. This entails new costs.

Insulation Features

There is a very wide range of products on the market today various materials. In this regard, many consumers are wondering what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside. When choosing insulation, you first need to focus on the material from which the building is constructed. It should be remembered that the installation of different protective coatings has its own characteristics. It may even happen that it will be possible to insulate a house with the purchased material, but the process will be very labor-intensive. This, in turn, will lead to loss of time and money. It should be noted that external insulation is more effective than internal insulation. The main advantages of external insulation are that it does not reduce the area of the premises and does not accumulate moisture. According to many experts, it is through the walls that about 30% of the heat escapes. Therefore, attention must be paid to insulating these surfaces increased attention.

Available material

Foam plastic is considered one of the most popular insulation materials today. It is produced in the form of slabs. The material is lightweight and easy to install. When laying, there is no need to use any complex equipment or have special knowledge. Among other things, the cost of polystyrene foam is very affordable for the wide mass of consumers. The disadvantage of the material is its flammability. Laying the material should be divided into several stages.

Surface preparation

Before insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam, you should work with the base. The surface must be made as smooth as possible. As mentioned above, polystyrene foam is produced in the form of slabs. If the material is attached to uneven surface, then gaps will form. The larger the base defects, the worse. The fact is that with mechanical impact on such an area, the slab may simply burst. In addition, in any isolated space, in the absence of ventilation, moisture, insects, etc. begin to accumulate. After preparing the base (leveling and cleaning), before insulating the house from the outside, the surface must be primed. The treatment will ensure better adhesion of the glue. If the house is wooden, then special attention must be paid to preparing the foundation. In this case, any air circulation and drafts should be excluded. Before insulating the house from the outside in this case, you need to seal all the cracks polyurethane foam, ecowool or any other sealant.

Aligning elements

At this stage, the installation of external window sills (sills) is carried out. They are aligned in a horizontal plane. A building level is used for this. This is necessary so that the slabs do not have to be cut later.

Laying the material

Before insulating the house from the outside, a “base” should be installed. Some masters call it a “starting bar”. It will prevent the slabs from “sliding” down the wall surface. In addition, if you have such a “foundation,” it will become much easier to follow the line. The slabs are laid from below. It should be remembered that the position of the entire row will depend on the evenness of the first element. A special glue is used to fix the slabs to the base. Professional craftsmen recommend additionally securing the material with special nails after the solution has dried.

Laying mineral wool

You can insulate the outside of your house with your own hands using this material. Mineral wool is a special fiber with various additives. The material is produced in the form of plates and rolls. Before laying it, careful preparation of the walls is not necessary, since mineral insulation quite flexible. Special fittings are used to fasten mineral wool. A fairly popular type of insulation is considered - stone wool"linerock". This material is placed in attics.

Penoplex

This insulation is often used in basements, cellars, and to insulate foundations. Penoplex today is considered one of the the best materials providing effective protection from exposure underground water. Before insulating the foundation of a house from the outside, the surface should be prepared - cleaned and leveled. You should know that several brands of penoplex are available. For home insulation, “31” and “35” are considered optimal. To fix the material, a special plaster is used, which contains polystyrene foam.

How to insulate the outside walls of a house using penoplex?

The work is carried out in several stages:

How to insulate a house from the outside if it is made of wood?

When installing insulating material in this case, it is necessary to take into account some important points. In particular, you should know that no matter the species, wood evaporates moisture. Usually in such cases they say “the surface breathes.” In this regard, before insulating the house from the outside, you should think about high-quality ventilation of the base. Experts recommend using basalt or glass wool as an insulating material. These insulation materials are almost identical. The significant difference is the price - glass wool is not so expensive.

Preparation for laying material

Before installation, professionals recommend replacing wooden windows to plastic ones. The installation of thermal insulation itself begins after the construction of the frame. It is assembled from wooden slats. Install them strictly vertically. In general, the design is similar to traditional sheathing. The distance between the slats should be equal to the width of the insulation. The material is fixed using plastic dowels with self-tapping screws.

Installation of insulation

The vapor barrier film is laid first. Then the insulation is installed. A windproof film is sewn over this insulating layer. It releases moisture from the surface, but does not let it back in. Finally, the finishing of the walls is carried out.

Important information

Before choosing any specific material, it is advisable to consult with knowledgeable people. When insulating a home, a number of factors should be taken into account. First of all, these include climatic features in a particular region. This includes minimum and maximum air temperatures, humidity, precipitation, etc. In addition, when choosing a material, you should find out how this or that insulation reacts to direct influences. sun rays, chemical compounds. It is also necessary to know whether the insulation emits harmful substances into the atmosphere. In this case, the cost of the material, although important, is not decisive.

External thermal insulation gives a much better effect than insulating a house from the inside. In addition to its main functions, insulation protects walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thereby extends the service life of the entire building. Installing insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials are available for insulating walls outside, and how to attach them correctly.

Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, the same materials can be used in both cases. However, when choosing insulation, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:

increased resistance to shrinkage;
resistance to mechanical damage;
UV resistance;
durability;
ease of installation;
resistance to insects and microorganisms.

For wooden houses The vapor permeability of the insulation also matters, because wooden walls must "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed to long-term operation, and removing them every few years to replace thermal insulation that has become unusable is too troublesome and not always advisable. At the same time, if the insulation under the finishing becomes compressed, cracks, begins to rot, or is chewed off by mice, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means it will not be possible to do without repairs. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.

Types of thermal insulation materials

On at the moment construction market offers the following materials for home insulation:

They all differ in technical characteristics, installation technology, and have different terms services. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.

Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and pulverizing glass, blast furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered or horizontally layered, and have different densities and thicknesses. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:

Available mineral wool in slabs and mats with various options coverings – kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. In terms of cost, the most expensive is basalt insulation, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.

Advantages of mineral wool:

the fine-fiber structure facilitates the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
due to its mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it provides additional protection to the walls from fire;
the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and almost no street noise penetrates into the insulated room;
the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, and thanks to its elasticity, quickly restores its shape after being crushed during installation;
Microorganisms and insects do not develop in mineral wool; rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

mineral wool has a tendency to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster deformation occurs. Rigid basalt slabs are the least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
when wet for a long time, the insulation becomes saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when squeezing and cutting the material, and then settle on the skin, causing irritation, and can enter the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool you should use at least gloves and a respirator.

Popular brands of mineral wool.

Name	Brief characteristics
	Basalt insulation with increased rigidity is produced in the form of slabs with a thickness of 25 to 180 mm. Suitable for all types of facades, can serve as a basis for applying plaster. It is resistant to deformation and shrinkage, waterproof, low thermal conductivity, and absolutely non-flammable. Fastening is done using dowels and glue
	A type of glass wool with various additives that improve the characteristics of the insulation. Available in slabs and rolls, there are options with foil coating. Widely used for insulating facades of all types, frame structures, internal partitions, roofing systems
	Fiberglass insulation that does not contain formaldehyde additives. Available in slabs and rolls, it is characterized by biological and chemical resistance, elasticity, and good vapor permeability. Material thickness – from 5 to 10 cm
	Glass wool insulation with a high content of water repellents. Available in the form of rolls, mats, rigid and semi-rigid slabs, 50-100 mm thick. Suitable for all types of surfaces, ventilated facades, frame structures

Prices for mineral wool

Foam and EPS

Insulation materials based on polystyrene foam are excellent heat insulators due to their closed cellular structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or inert gas, enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are excellent for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. When thermally insulating facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.

Advantages:

polystyrene foam insulation is lightweight and easy to process during installation, so even a beginner can handle it. In addition, such thermal insulation does not place a large load on the base, which means there is no need for additional reinforcement of load-bearing structures;
microorganisms cannot develop in polystyrene foam, so the insulation is not afraid of fungi and mold;
with proper installation, these materials last quite a long time, especially EPS - up to 50 years;
polystyrene foam and EPS are resistant to soap and salt solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
installation does not require application protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles and does not cause irritation.

Flaws:

expanded polystyrene is a vapor-tight material, and therefore cannot be used for insulating wooden walls;
insulation is destroyed upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
sound insulation properties are much lower than those of mineral wool insulation;
already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to release harmful substances - toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.

EPPS is in great demand in the domestic market domestic production– “Penoplex” and “Teplex”, as well as polystyrene foam insulation of the Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX brands.

Prices for foam plastic

Foam plastic

Cellulose insulation

Cellulose insulation, also called ecowool, is made from paper production waste and waste paper. Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% are antiseptics and fire retardants. The material is tightly packed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense, seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-adhesive, and both options can be done either manually or using a special installation.

The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately begin finishing. But at the same time, the coating density will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, dry blowing produces large number fine dust and you have to work in a respirator.

The wet-glue method ensures better adhesion of the insulation to the base; the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even longer in cold or damp weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you cannot begin finishing.

Advantages:

environmental safety;
excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
fire resistance;
long service life;
affordable price.

tendency to shrink;
high hygroscopicity;
the complexity of performing work manually.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam, or PPU, belongs to the new generation of insulation and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after application to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.

Advantages:

the liquid mixture easily fills all irregularities, cracks, recesses, and is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
the material retains heat well and muffles sounds;
PU foam is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, and can withstand sudden temperature changes;
can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
the insulation is very light, so it does not require reinforcement of the load-bearing foundations;
the average service life is 25-30 years.

polyurethane foam is destroyed when exposed to sunlight;
Spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
Polyurethane foam cannot be used in areas that are very hot;
high cost of materials and specialist services.

Wall insulation technology

Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options, a prerequisite is high-quality preparation of the base, because not a single insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Let's consider methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards, as the most popular in frequent construction.

Insulation with mineral wool

External walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. Repair cracks and problem areas, and be sure to treat areas affected by fungus. There is no need to eliminate minor irregularities - the mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will be hidden inside. Finally, the walls are coated with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the layer of thermal insulation.

Step 1. The beams for the frame are cut to the required length, treated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation and dried in air.

Advice. The cross-section of the beams should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if slabs with a thickness of 50 mm are laid in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with a two-layer laying - no less than 11 cm. In the first case, a beam with a section of 50x50 mm is suitable for the racks, in the second - a board 40x110 mm installed on the edge.

Step 2. Markings are made on the walls for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and the beams are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During the installation process, the location of the elements is controlled at the building level; if necessary, wooden supports are used under the beams so that all the racks are in the same plane.

Step 3. The insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material expands on its own and tightly fills the space. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.

Step 4. After filling all the cells on top, the insulation must be covered with a windproof, moisture-proof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side out, the canvases are positioned horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The top sheet is overlapped by 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with tape.

Step 5. Wooden counter battens 30-40 mm thick are stuffed on top of the membrane to provide an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation and moisture will absorb wooden frame and the structure will quickly become unusable.

After this, all that remains is to install the finishing coating, for example, siding or corrugated sheeting. The finishing must completely cover the thermal insulation layer so that precipitation does not fall on the slabs. Only under such conditions will the material last long and effectively.

Last step - decorative finishing facade

Insulation with polystyrene foam

This method of insulation is noticeably different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly to the surface. Secondly, installation is carried out without sheathing; the slabs are attached with glue and mushroom dowels.

Step 1. The prepared walls are coated with a primer with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakt. If the base is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.

Step 2. Determine the lower limit of thermal insulation and draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house. Drill holes for dowels according to the markings in increments of 20-30 cm and secure the starting strip.

Starting bar fixed

Step 3. To fix the insulation you will need special glue. You can use mounting adhesive in cylinders, for example, TYTAN STYRO 753, or dry glue mixture(Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix until smooth with a mixer at low speed.

Take the first sheet and apply back side glue in a continuous strip around the perimeter and in the center. Next, apply the insulation to the wall, resting the bottom edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, and press it firmly to the base.

Step 4. Secure the entire row, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row begins with half a sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue that appears at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.

Step 5. When the glue has hardened, each sheet must be secured with disc dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert dowels and carefully hammer them in with a hammer. One sheet requires 5 fasteners - in each corner and in the center.

Step 6. Next, knead adhesive solution, apply a continuous layer to the insulation, lay a fiberglass reinforcing mesh on top and embed it in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.

When the solution has dried, the surface is sanded, dusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now all that remains is to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.

Prices for Ceresit glue

Ceresit glue

Video - Materials for insulating walls outside

Video - Insulating the facade with penoplex

Content

Not only comfort, but also people’s health depends on the microclimate in the house. The optimal temperature for a living space is 20–25°C, and the humidity level is 50–60%. If winters are harsh, much of the heat energy is lost through the walls, roof, door and window openings. To retain heat as much as possible, wall structures must be insulated.

Choosing insulation for the outside walls of a house

It is recommended to insulate private house outside, since internal insulation has many disadvantages. Insulation for the external walls of a house is not uncommon on the market. Therefore, in order to select a quality material, it is enough to take into account the technical parameters and installation features when choosing. This way you can choose the ideal thermal insulation.

Principles of insulating the external walls of a house

It is important to understand why façade insulation is a priority over thermal insulation of residential premises from the inside. There are situations when it is not possible to mount outside thermal insulation material And external finishing buildings, in these cases internal insulation is the only possible option.

The problem is the location of the “dew point” - the place where heat meets cold, causing condensation to form. And in a living room, moisture is always present in the air due to evaporation from bodies, breathing, and the use of water for domestic needs.

The dew point in an uninsulated wall is located approximately in the middle of the enclosing structure. This means that the wall is picking up moisture from the room. If you install thermal insulation on the inner surface of the walls, the structure will freeze through and the slightest access of warm, moist air behind the insulating layer will lead to condensation - the wall will get wet under the insulation.

Experts say that it is better to insulate the house from the outside. In this case, the wall structures will be insulated from contact with cold air, as a result of which the walls will not freeze. Depending on the insulation technology used on the outside, wet warm air, which goes through the wall:

will not come into contact with the cold, since the insulating layer is mounted directly on the wall structure;
gets into the ventilation gap between the wall and the heat insulator, the moisture will quickly evaporate, due to which there will be no conditions for the wall to get wet - when external insulation the dew point is located outside the structure.

To choose the best option for external insulation, you need to take into account the characteristics of the materials from which the house is built, as well as technical specifications heat insulators.

Properties of thermal insulators

Thermal insulation with mineral glass wool

Insulation for a home, regardless of the type of construction, is characterized by a low thermal conductivity. But heat insulators are compared not only by this parameter. It is equally important to evaluate other characteristics that affect the durability, safety and functional properties of the material for external insulation:

indicators of vapor permeability and water absorption;
impact on the microclimate of the room;
resistance to aggressive environments;
fire resistance;
environmental friendliness and health safety;
resistance to biological damage (mold, rodents, insects);
physical and mechanical parameters (including tendency to shrinkage, resistance to mechanical stress, elasticity, etc.);
noise-absorbing properties;
installation technology and ease of work;
the ability to create a seamless thermal insulation coating;
possibility of application on surfaces of complex configuration with a large number of hard-to-reach places;
strength and long service life.

When designing wall insulation, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer using the thermal conductivity value of the selected material. Pay attention to the indicators of water absorption and vapor permeability of the insulation, because they affect the technology of installation work.

Types of heat insulators

Examples of various thermal insulators

Present on the market various types insulation for walls, each of which has its own advantages. Thermal insulation of the facade is most often carried out using:

foam plastic (expanded polystyrene);
extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, eps, extruded polystyrene foam);
sprayed polyurethane foam;
mineral wool (basalt);
liquid thermal insulation.

You should choose good thermal insulation taking into account the material from which the wall is built, as well as the planned option for external finishing.

Foam plastic

Thermal insulation of external walls using foam plastic

Expanded polystyrene boards are actively used for external thermal insulation building structures. Advantages of polymer material: light weight, easy installation, moisture resistance, affordable price. In addition, the heat insulator does not become a haven for fungus and is not damaged by insect pests. If you prevent ultraviolet radiation from entering the insulation, the material will last more than 50 years.

At the same time, the material also has a number of serious disadvantages - it is flammable and easily damaged by rodents. With a density of less than 35 kg/m3, the foam has a loose structure, and it is vapor permeable due to the pores between the interconnected foamed polymer granules. The denser the material, the higher it thermal insulation properties.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation with polystyrene foam

EPPS, penoplex is a foamed polymer material with a closed cell structure. Polymer insulation for thermal insulation of a house has the same advantages, but extruded polystyrene foam differs for the better from polystyrene foam:

low flammability (combustion is maintained only with constant contact with the flame; in the absence of a fire source, the material extinguishes itself);
vapor tightness;
resistance to damage by rodents.

XPS is widely used as external insulation, if graphite nanoparticles are used in its production, the material has higher energy-saving properties and strength.

Spray polyurethane foam

An example of insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam

PPU is a heat-insulating material with a closed-cell structure. Due to the fact that 90% of the weight is air contained in the cells, modern insulation characterized by low thermal conductivity.

Polyurethane foam is resistant to biological damage, does not spread fire, and due to its low weight, such wall insulation does not load structures and foundations. The material is moisture- and gas-proof and provides an airtight coating.

The spraying method allows the use of polyurethane foam to create seamless elastic thermal insulation on surfaces of any configuration. Polyurethane foam has high adhesion and adheres reliably to any type of base - wood, brick and block structures.

The disadvantages of polyurethane foam include the high cost and the need to use professional equipment during installation.

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation of walls using mineral wool

Fibrous materials for insulating walls outside are stone wool, slag wool, glass wool. The type of mineral wool depends on the raw materials used. They can be waste from glass production and the metallurgical industry, or molten rock (basalt).

To choose the right mineral wool heat insulator, you should take into account that slag wool is not environmentally friendly and is better for insulating non-residential buildings. Glass wool tends to cake over time, losing its thermal insulation properties. Ideal option– basalt wool, which holds its shape well, does not burn, is easy to install, dampens sound waves, is not afraid of biological damage and is durable.

Basalt wool can be used to insulate walls made of building blocks, bricks, and timber. Work on thermal insulation of the facade is carried out at any temperature.

The fibrous material is vapor permeable and capable of absorbing moisture, which requires its reliable vapor barrier during installation internal insulation and external thermal insulation under the cladding. Moisture condensation reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.

However, vapor permeability is useful property, if thermal insulation external walls made from “breathable” materials using the “plastered” technology. In such a situation, moist warm air from the room passes through the mineral wool and is discharged outside, and a favorable microclimate is maintained in the house.

Liquid thermal insulation

Application of liquid thermal insulation

Liquid thermal insulation – innovative material for insulation of wall structures from the outside. Used for processing metal elements structures (prevents the formation of cold bridges), as well as for insulating walls made of foam blocks, bricks, and wood.

The ceramic multicomponent composition visually looks like paint, but has porous structure with vacuum voids. The total volume of voids reaches 80% of the material, due to which thermal insulation properties are ensured.

The list of advantages of the material includes:

integrity of the coating, absence of seams;
a simple method of applying to walls from the outside (using a roller, brush or vacuum sprayer);
Possibility of application on surfaces of any configuration;
resistance of the heat-protective layer to external influences(high and low temperatures, moisture, ultraviolet radiation, mechanical damage);
decorative appearance (the building does not require finishing on top of the insulating layer);
protection of structures (protects metal from corrosion, wood from UV radiation and moisture);
resistance to biological damage.

Using liquid thermal insulation, you can successfully insulate the facade of a private residential house, outbuilding, or industrial facility.

Methods of external insulation

The materials used to insulate the outside of a house are mostly universal and suitable for wall structures built from any materials. But it is important to understand how insulation will affect the wall’s ability to “breathe” with a particular installation technology. Pay attention to the external finish on the outside of the insulation. Typically, plaster is used façade panels, siding, facing brick.

There are three main ways to insulate a building from the outside:

fastening the heat insulator under the plaster;
arrangement of a non-ventilated three-layer system;
installation of a ventilated facade.

The application of liquid heat-insulating composition has not yet become widespread.

Insulation of walls under plaster

“Pie” of the wall when thermally insulated with mineral wool

For installation under plaster, slab insulation is used for the external walls of the house. The material is attached using special glue and umbrella fasteners to the leveled walls ( wooden structures pre-treated with an antiseptic). Sheathing elements are mounted “in a staggered manner” so that there are no long connecting seams.

Then plaster is applied with the obligatory use of mesh for reinforcement. To prevent the plaster layer from falling off the polymer insulation over time, it is recommended to treat its smooth surface with abrasive for better adhesion and use plastering material with high adhesion.

When choosing a heat insulator, it is important to consider:

If you use polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam as insulation material, the house turns into a thermos, since these materials are vapor-proof. To prevent the walls from becoming damp from the inside, the house must have effective exhaust ventilation.
By using mineral wool, you will maintain the vapor permeability of the wall, but provided that the plaster is not painted acrylic paint, because it creates a film.

Non-ventilated three-layer system

Section of a wall during installation of a non-ventilated three-layer system

Used if the wall material is brick or blocks. The procedure for insulating walls when installing a three-layer non-ventilated system:

a heat insulator of any type is attached to the wall using glue or spraying;
with an indentation for an air gap, the external cladding of the house from decorative brick is installed.

If you insulate a house using this technology with foamed polymer, you need to take care of good ventilation, since the walls stop “breathing.” The advantages of the technology include the ability to perform beautiful brick facade Houses. You can also install façade panels.

Ventilated facade

Insulation of walls using a ventilated facade

The most common option provides the possibility of covering the house with siding, decorative panels, and clapboard. The materials for thermal insulation of the facade can be mineral wool, EPS boards, or polystyrene foam.

The design of the “pie” is as follows:

sheathing of boards to create a ventilation gap;
fastening of hydro-vapor barrier;
lathing (on boards) for laying heat insulation;
insulation in the resulting sections;
windproof film;
counter-lattice to create an air gap;
finishing cladding with the selected material.

Pay attention! A common mistake is to install waterproofing directly on the wall of the house. In this case, the vapor permeability of the structure is lost.

Conclusion

To prevent a wall insulated from the outside from becoming damp and moldy, it is necessary to use a technology that does not interfere with its vapor permeability, or it is necessary to install a high-quality ventilation system.

– this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to reduce heat loss as much as possible by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with external insulation. Let's figure out how and with what to insulate wooden house from the outside, we will evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

Specifics of insulating frame houses from the outside

In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of heat insulator is assigned directly wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the frame posts and covered with rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.

However, if the work is performed poorly or the thickness or density of the insulation is incorrectly selected, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce energy costs and improve the indoor microclimate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

Low thermal conductivity. Among the insulation materials that can boast of this property are: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
Minimal water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the thermal insulation layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and produces little smoke when burning.
Light weight. Frames are erected on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

In addition, facade insulation for exterior finishing should be well kept at home linear dimensions and do not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

Choosing thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The optimal insulation option for outdoor use in frame construction– basalt wool. The material is thermally efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. If you are on a limited budget, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam with fire retardants is suitable.

Video: insulating the facade using the “wet” method

Building the walls and roof of a house is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the built space comfortable for life. To do this, most often the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but don’t know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this problem - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The procedure for performing the work is also considered, thematic photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation are selected.

The materials from which the walls of permanent structures are erected can be different: brick, concrete, slag or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to varying degrees.

Why do you need to insulate from the outside? Many people attribute this to the fact that if an insulating layer is installed inside a building, useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but this is not the main reason. The critical parameter is .

A dew point forms on a surface where there is a temperature difference when pressure changes.

And if you install thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space and prevent it from reaching the enclosing structures.

Insulation from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form inside the building, most likely on the inner surface of the main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedures for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in the humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not have the opportunity to dry. Hence a number of negative aspects, including development.

This is why it is so important to insulate walls from the outside. In total, there are 3 different technologies that are used to insulate capital structures. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method No. 1 - well

This is one of the most ancient ways to insulate the walls of your home from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: capital investments are being built load-bearing walls, and after that, retreating a little, they are lined with another row of bricks - for example, half a brick thick.

Between the main and external, let's call it decorative, walls, a void is formed - a “well”, which creates the effect of a thermos.

Distance from decorative wall up to the capital one is adjusted using special connecting steel anchors or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It covers the section of the well and simultaneously serves as reinforcement to strengthen the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes in external insulation of facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation of permanent buildings ceases to be a separate issue that is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive when choosing the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in price of electricity and energy resources, for example, gas, the issues that will come to the fore when constructing a building heat saving.

Tell us what insulation method you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the communication block located under the article.