Arrangement of the floor in the bathhouse is one of the important and rather difficult moments in general process its construction. The floor in the steam room can be made with your own hands in different ways, and the choice of technology may depend both on the preference of the owner and on the material from which the entire structure is mainly constructed.
In order for the bathhouse to function normally and be as comfortable as possible for visitors, when installing floors it is necessary to take into account some conditions, which include:
- Possibility of easy independent
- Sufficient surface rigidity, anti-slip properties, and ease of walking with bare feet on a wet surface.
- Good heat retention.
- Possibility of easy surface cleaning.
The design of the floor in a steam room largely depends on the material from which it will be made, so there are several types of its construction.
Required materials
For preparatory and main work on installing any floors, building materials will be needed:
- Cement, gravel-sand mixture and sand.
- Waterproofing material - polyethylene film and roofing felt.
- Pipe for draining used water.
- Reinforcing mesh and beacons.
- Insulation material.
- A wooden beam, the size of which will depend on the structure being built. If you plan to make removable gratings, then a beam of 30 × 50 mm in size is required. When the device is completely wooden floor and log dimensions of the timber should be approximately 70 × 100 and 50 × 80 mm.
- A massive tongue-and-groove board with a tongue-and-groove lock is needed for a floor that does not leak, but for a leaky floor, a smooth, well-planed one is needed.
- Compositions for treating wood that will make it moisture resistant.
- To make some flooring options you will need asbestos concrete pipe or brick.
- Grate and siphon for drainage.
Main types of bath floor designs
Asbestos concrete pipes that are laid on a compacted embankment serve not only as joists for the boardwalk, but also ventilation holes, which help to ventilate the underground space.
The numbers on the diagram indicate:
1 - Waterproofing, laid on the upper section of the foundation under the wooden elements of the wall. For these purposes, roofing felt is usually used.
2 – Bathhouse foundation.
3 - Log wall of the building.
4 – Skirting board covering the corner from direct water ingress.
5 - Backfill made of crushed stone or gravel.
6 - Pit for absorbing used water.
7 - Leaking floor boards.
8 – Asbestos-cement pipes, playing the role of beams and joists.
9 – Compacted clay layer.
Third option
Such a wooden covering is installed without a rough concrete floor at all, directly on a columnar or strip foundation. The space between pillars or awnings can be concreted with a rough solution or covered with clay and compacted.
To drain water in this option, a tray is installed in the middle of the floor of the room, which is connected to the sewer drain by a pipe. The tray is made of boards and installed on the foundation support through a layer of waterproofing.
The plank covering is laid on a slope that goes from the walls to the central floor, to the location drainage tray. The boards are laid tightly to each other, that is, the wooden covering in this case is not leaky.
1, 2 and 3 – bathhouse wall with hydro- and vapor barrier and internal lining.
4 – Wall support beams, which will give the floor the required slope.
5 – compacted or concreted soil surface between the foundation supports.
6 – Water collection tray
7 - The walls of the tray, which, in addition, act as joists in the center of the room.
8 - Non-leakage plank flooring.
Fourth option
This option differs from others in that the drain structure is installed between the white and subfloor, and the wooden flooring is not installed at a slope, but horizontally, but above the funnel-shaped surface located below.
In addition, in this case one drainage system is used for two rooms of the bathhouse - the steam room and the washing room. Since a much larger amount of water is used in the washing room of a bathhouse than in a steam room, the drainage hole is located precisely under it. For a steam room, a good slope of the underground structure for drainage is sufficient.
Scheme of a “pie” of rough and finished wooden floors in a bathhouse 2 – Leaking floor plank.
3 - Rough wooden floor.
4 - An embankment of gravel or crushed stone. This form can also be made from concrete with insulation additives. If the second option is used, then the logs will have to be securely waterproof.
5 – Thin concrete screed with a waterproofing coating based on liquid rubber or glass.
6 - Drain funnel.
7 - Sewage pipe.
Having looked at the diagrams different designs floor, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the installation of the two options that are most popular among.
Prices for various types of timber
Insulated wooden floor
IN wooden log house Traditionally, a plank insulated floor is installed, without a concrete sub-base. The installation of this structure is quite complicated and begins during the construction of the foundation.
- If a floor that does not leak is installed, then it is necessary to install a sewer pipe, and this activity is carried out along with the construction of the foundation.
- The subfloor of the bathhouse should be raised above the ground by 400 ÷ 600 mm. To do this, brick columns or walls are installed on which the floor beams will be laid.
- After the walls of the structure are erected, they move on to waterproofing the compacted soil and foundation. For this, roofing felt is usually used.
- On waterproofed supports are laid wooden beams ceilings Skull blocks are nailed along their lower edge for laying subfloor boards.
- Further, the work proceeds according to the presented scheme. The drain pipe runs through all layers of the floor, and most often the hole for it is located in the middle of the steam room.
- The next step is to lay the subfloor boards on the cranial beam.
- A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, on top of which an insulating material is placed, for example, mineral wool mats or polystyrene foam boards.
- The insulation is covered on top with a waterproofing material - thick polyethylene film. It is advisable to lay it in a single sheet. If this does not work, then an overlap of at least 200 mm is made between the strips and the seams are sealed with waterproof tape.
Video: the process of installing a subfloor in a bathhouse
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
- Next comes the complex process of establishing the desired slope of the boards, directed towards the sewer drain. At this time, the sewer pipe should be raised slightly above the height of the insulation layer. A special sheathing is made around the pipe opening, onto which the ends of the boards will be secured. The thickness of the sheathing boards should be 15-20 mm.
- To achieve the desired slope in the form of a funnel, the floor boards along the walls should be slightly raised. To do this, a block with a height of 30 to 50 millimeters is fixed around the perimeter of the room.
There are two more ways to install a slope with drainage not into the pipe hole, but into a drainage groove (gutter), which can be installed either in the middle of the room or along one of the walls.
— In the first case, the boards near the walls are raised on both sides, secured to bars along the walls parallel to the groove, and the slope will go from the walls to the middle of the bathhouse.
— In the second option, the floor is raised only On the one side, and the water flows into a gutter located on the opposite wall.
- When the base for fastening the boards is ready, a plank covering is laid on top. The boards must be well prepared, covered with special protective equipment, which will make the tree resistant to constant exposure to moisture.
- In addition, the boards must be fitted very tightly to each other, therefore, for a non-leaking floor, only tongue and groove boards with a tongue-and-groove lock are used. They should be assembled into a single plane without cracks or gaps.
- Skirting boards are installed along the walls. The gaps between the sewer drain hole and the boards are hermetically sealed, and a grate is installed on the drain.
Find out, and also consider the best options, from our new article.
Concrete floor in the bathhouse
- A floor filled with concrete can be called the best option for a steam room, if it is designed properly. Its installation also begins when laying the foundation, carrying out in the right place, according to the project, there is a sewer pipe through its wall.
- Next, the soil under the future floor is compacted, and a cushion of sand is made on it, and then of crushed stone. It is better to immediately give this mound the shape of a wide funnel with a slope towards the center of the room.
- The sewer pipe in advance, even before sand-crushed stone backfill is extended to the center of the room, and all other work is carried out taking into account its location.
- After this, a waterproofing film is stretched onto the surface, which covers the pipe, leaving only the drain element uncovered.
- The next step is to lay hard insulation (EPS is best), which should, as far as possible, follow the shape of a wide funnel, the center of which will be the drain.
- It is recommended to cover the top of the insulation with a reinforcing mesh on which the beacons are placed. The concrete screed will be leveled against them. Therefore, if the necessary shape for the direction of flow of water was not created earlier, then it can still be displayed using beacons. However, pouring uneven layers of concrete is a rather difficult task.
- The next step is to install a damper tape around the perimeter of the room, which will protect the screed from deformation and destruction during expansion processes under the influence of thermal changes. Next, the prepared site is filled with concrete, which is leveled taking into account the exposed beacons.
- You can lay ceramic tiles on the finished frozen screed, or you can cover it with removable wooden gratings.
- When using a ceramic coating, the drain grate can be made the center of the decorative composition of the floor.
- There is another solution that can be called optimal - this is laying tiles on the bath floors, and installing wooden grates on top.
In this case ceramic coating it will preserve the floor of the bathhouse for a longer period, and wooden flooring will make it comfortable for visitors.
Video: laying tiles while creating the required slope to collect water
Prices for the range of floor tiles
Floor tiles
Water drainage
It is good if a sewerage system is connected to the site - in this case there will be no problems with the drainage of used water.
One of the options for a drainage well is made from old tires If there is no central sewerage system, then the water is diverted into a drainage ditch (pit) or you can get by with constructing a drainage well.
- It is dug to a depth of 1.3 ÷ 1.5 m deep (with an average level of soil freezing of 0.5 ÷ 0.7 m.
- For a small bathhouse, which is built only for personal family use, a well with dimensions of 90 × 90 or 100 × 100 cm will be sufficient. If the bathhouse is large or is used very intensively, the well needs to be made larger.
- The bottom of the well is filled with crushed stone or expanded clay 40 ÷ 50 cm thick. You can also use other materials that have drainage properties. For example, brick fragments are often used.
- The drainage pipe discharging water should enter the well at a depth of 20 ÷ 30 cm.
Video: an option for organizing the drainage of water from a bathhouse
When installing floors in a bathhouse, you need to treat this process very carefully so as not to miss a single technological stage, since each of them affects the durability of the structure and the ease of everyday use. If you begin to carry out the work, having understood them well, then all these construction activities can be carried out independently.
The floor in the bathhouse differs in its design only in the steam room and washing room. The remaining rooms of the bathhouse are operated under normal humidity conditions.
In this article we will look in detail at the construction of floors in a steam room and tell you how to lay them with your own hands.
Choosing a steam room and washing room floor design
The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the healthy properties of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to replace, and the total costs will still be lower than installing a concrete floor.
In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be drained into a pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bathhouse. In constructive terms, to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.
A leaking floor requires a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underground space. Next, it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which it is formed clay castle or concrete base with a slope to one side.
The second option is a non-leakage floor wet areas baths This type of flooring is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only after its service life has expired. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards a tray or funnel.
A floor with a removable covering can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly while the bathhouse is not in use. Fixed floors, due to their susceptibility to rotting under high humidity, are completely replaced approximately once every 7–8 years.
A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bathhouse significantly increases the durability of the structure and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the installation of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bathhouse, so if the mother soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.
Materials and tools
To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements made of deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) woods are used. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.
To install the floor you will need:
- wooden beam for logs 50(100)x100 mm;
- floorboard 35 mm thick;
- cement M300, M400;
- medium sand;
- expanded clay for the thermal insulation layer;
- ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
- waterproofing (roofing felt).
It is important to choose the right wood protective impregnation. It should be suitable specifically for baths because high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil in two approaches.
Tool
The floors in the steam room are installed using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and wooden covering bath floor.
Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroker. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile
Tools for woodworking. 1. Construction corner. 2. Bracket. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Wood saw. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine
Leaky floor made of individual boards with chamfers
To prepare the soil foundation for the floor structure, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.
Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Soil. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement screed. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard
Leaking floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. Support pillar foundation. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard
It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this purpose, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drainage pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the location of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through the drain pipe into the reservoir.
The slope of the surface for water drainage is 2–3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor or by using bedding (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The general floor level in the steam room and washing room is made 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.
A sand and gravel cushion 10–15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:
- without sand:
- cement M300, 400 – 250 kg;
- expanded clay – 720 kg;
- water - 100-150 l.
- with sand:
- cement M300, 400 – 230 kg;
- expanded clay – 440 kg;
- sand – 195 kg;
- water – 100-130 l.
It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order
It is also acceptable to use other lightweight filler (schungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the stripes, slats are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The greater the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the warmer the floor.
Be sure to maintain a slope towards the gutter or funnel for collecting and draining water
A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on a layer of expanded clay concrete. Mortar composition (M100) cement/sand: one to three. Before the solution sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement laitance. Cement is mixed with water to form liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.
Brick columns made of solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) in cement-sand mortar are installed under the logs. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the logs are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers at the edges to allow water to drain away. The gap between the boards is 5–6 mm.
Important! Cannot be used in damp or wet areas sand-lime brick, hollow stones, silicate blocks.
This type of flooring is removable to allow drying. floorboard to increase service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often grabbed with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared for them in the logs, or spacers are placed on the boards along the edges.
Leaking floor made of removable panels
The flooring of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden panels. The boards are laid with a gap on transverse bars of 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.
The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. A ceramic layer is laid on a cement-sand mortar 10–15 mm thick. floor tiles. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable panels are installed on the tiles so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.
Sequence of work on a non-leaking floor
A leak-proof wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along joists. First, determine the location of the support posts. They are placed at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring distances along the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the column is prepared for each column.
Solid non-leaking floor on top of the ground. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. Support pillar foundation. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard
A continuous, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the joists located close to the wall. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floorboard
Supports for the logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay brick with cement-sand mortar. The size of the posts is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports should correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (column foundation), or the top of the strip foundation.
The direction of laying the logs should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements must be insulated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing felt). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made over the compacted soil.
A version of a non-insulated floor is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on the wall joist on one side, and on the gutter joist on the other. The top of the tray is covered with a wooden ladder.
An insulated floor involves joists with cranial bars to which the subfloor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), and a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene foam) is placed on it. Rolled waterproofing (roofing material) is laid over the thermal insulation layer.
Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Joists and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Joists and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, and waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer.
There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The size of the log in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull block - 40x40 mm. For lags it is necessary to use only solid timber.
Tongue and groove boards are laid over the joists. The boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the joists through the tongue and groove. This method of joining boards together is called “parquet”. Its advantage is the absence of caps on the surface of the board.
Each board is attached to all the joists. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. Staples or clamps are used to hold the boards together. Nails for fastening are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. Subsequently, the gap is covered with a plinth.
Water is drained from the floor surface by sloping the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain site and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be adjusted by adjusting the height of the joists.
The construction of a wooden floor in a bathhouse should begin with the installation of floor joists, which should be pine or made of larch. Boards made of the same type of wood are attached to these logs. When laying the floor, you should do it with a certain slope so that liquid can drain easily. However, if you are installing a leaky floor, this condition is not necessary. The laying of lags must be carried out according to minimum distance from the selected wall to another, but if the walls in the bathhouse are equilateral, this condition can also be ignored.
Having determined the path of the flowing liquid, we install the logs in diameter relative to this vector. To achieve the required rigidity, support chairs are mounted in the central area of each of them, which can easily be made of brick or a pliable material such as wood. Under them, a support platform reinforced with a chain-link mesh is made from durable concrete mixture, at least a quarter meter wide.
We dig forty centimeter holes for the platform base, followed by compacting the edges and bottom. A ten-centimeter layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of such pits and compacted with water. A fifteen-centimeter crushed stone layer is laid above this layer and also compacted. Instead of ordinary crushed stone, you can take broken brick.
Formwork that protrudes more than 5 cm above the ground surface is made from edged boards. The edges should be insulated from water with roofing felt or use roofing felt. After completing the installation of the formwork, a debut concrete layer is placed there, with an approximate thickness of about 15 cm. It is compacted and covered with a chain-link mesh, and then exactly the same second layer is placed on top. Before installing a wooden or brick support on the site under construction, a waterproofing layer is made of bitumen brought to the melting temperature, covered with roofing felt. The degree of elevation of the supports should be selected taking into account the degree of elevation of the supports for the ends of the floor joists.
A strip-type foundation requires the same height of the support and the top of the foundation being constructed.
But the columnar type of foundation being constructed now being considered requires the same height of the supporting top and the rising part of the embedded beam, since we will rest the end parts of the lags on the bars of the embedded crown. After completing work with the supports, we begin preparing the soil located underground.
Leaking floors in a bathhouse with sandy soil require crushed stone backfill, the thickness of which can be a quarter of a meter. This material here will play the role of a filter, ensuring the optimal level of humidity in the underground in question. Soil that does not absorb water well needs to create a tray where water flowing outside the bathhouse will be accumulated.
To implement this technology, it is advisable to install a clay castle under the leaky type floor, sloping towards the drainage tray. The castle can also be made of concrete mixture, but this will be more expensive. To make such a castle, you need to compact a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone poured onto the surface of the soil and pour a fifteen-centimeter layer of a pliable material such as clay on top of it. It must be level and have a two-sided slope in relation to the equipped pit relative to the horizon line.
If you are installing a non-leakage floor, you should insulate the surface of the bathhouse underground with such multifunctional and inexpensive material, like expanded clay. In this case, there should be about 15 cm between it and the logs for optimal air circulation. The flushing compartment near the wall here will serve as a place for pit equipment, from where a pipe will lead outside, leading water out. Its diameter should exceed 150 mm so as not to slow down the process of emptying the drainage tray.
Installation of logs
Laying of logs for a non-leaking type of floor should be carried out from the walls to the drainage tray, while the front logs should be mounted higher in level than the rest, and not cut into them. In the following lags, inclined cuts are made at an angle of approximately 10 degrees, and their depth depends on the number of lags used - the fewer there are, the deeper the cuts.
The sawing of the beams here is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the space of the bathhouse, so that on both sides there remains about 4 cm between the joists and wall surfaces for successful air circulation.
Installation of logs is carried out on embedded beams and pillars of the support type. The process necessarily uses waterproofing materials, such as roofing felt and glassine. All installed logs are treated with an antiseptic solution.
You can check the correct installation using a building level. To bring the logs into a more horizontal position, you need to trim the places on them that rest on the embedded beam or the support used.
You can also check the uniformity of laying with a level. This can be done by placing a level on a board lying on the joists with a leveled surface. You can trim the joists either using pads or hems.
Near the base being installed, the logs must certainly lie along the perimeter at a distance of about 15 cm from the edges. The stove foundation is brought to the level of the flooring only after the installation work is completed.
Photo - stove foundation
To do this, you will need to lay out the base under the stove on a pre-arranged area. Here you can use fire brick or concrete.
Installation of a leaky floor
Here are used unedged boards, pre-planed and leveled at the ends.
The boards are cut to fit the dimensions of the bathhouse, taking into account that there is a two-centimeter gap between the surface of the walls and the floor. The flooring can be laid from any wall surface, as long as it is parallel to the course of the boards.
The cut boards are laid at a distance of 2 cm from the wall surface and nailed. Moreover, if the thickness of the board is 40 mm, the length of the fastening element used must exceed 80 mm.
Fasteners should be used along the edges of the boards, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from their edges. It is best to drive the nails in at an angle of 40 degrees from the center of the board. You should use at least a couple of nails to secure one board.
The gap between the nailed boards should exceed 3 mm. A piece of regular fiberboard sheet inserted between them will help to meet this condition.
Installation of a non-leaking floor
Here, tongue and groove boards are optimally suited, which, as a rule, are laid with a groove inside the bathhouse.
Before starting work, the so-called black floor covering is installed. To implement this, special bars are attached to the front parts of the logs, with a cross-section represented by a value of 50x50 mm. On them, between the logs, there are boards belonging to the second or third grade.
A layer of materials that provide protection from moisture, such as glassine or the common and inexpensive roofing felt, is laid on top of the finished “black” floor covering.
The insulation here can be expanded clay, poured into the space between the joists. After backfilling is completed, a waterproofing layer is also laid.
Having finished installing the “black” floor covering, we begin work on laying the finished floor. Here tongue-and-groove boards are taken. So that they can be removed from their places for subsequent drying, the boards used in the work do not even need to be fastened with fasteners such as nails, using instead bars with a cross-section of 20x30 mm, mounted to the joists with special “capercaillie” screws. Thus, you can easily make the floor in the bathhouse with your own hands.
This is a very difficult task, since it is necessary to take into account the numerous nuances of the arrangement of all its premises. These “subtleties” are, of course, determined by the specifics of bath conditions. Specifically, markedly high temperatures and humidity, direct contact of many surfaces to be finished with water, the need to maintain a special microclimate, increased sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of premises, and some others.
And one of the most “problem” areas is traditionally the floors. Not only their own durability, but also the comfort of staying in bathhouses as a whole directly depends on how correctly their design is selected and assembled. Therefore, the question of what is the best material to make the floor in a bathhouse from is one of the most important when planning such a construction.
Main types of bath floors
First, it’s worth understanding what floor designs can, in principle, be installed in a bathhouse, and what material they are made of. There are not so many suitable options, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the finishing of premises designed for constant high humidity and sudden temperature changes must be environmentally friendly and not emit toxic substances.
Therefore, today the floors in bathhouses are still made of wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing surface heating using modern systems"warm floor".
Wooden floors
Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost any of their relevance today. The only thing that many bathhouse owners add to their usual wooden structure- this is how they are insulated modern material, like extruded polystyrene foam.
It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. Due to Since the floor covering will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, since it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.
Oak boards are quite expensive, and they are not so easy to find, so the best option would be a board made of larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also not cheap, which is why many bathhouse owners prefer it pine boards, as the most affordable material in terms of price. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.
For leaking floors, select flat board, without grooves and tenons. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove boards, since only they, with a good fit, will progress installation can create an almost hermetic coating.
Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, initially it must be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after flooring, and the floors will begin to deform.
The recommended board thickness for making floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step at which the logs should be installed to secure the finished plank flooring. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a 25 mm board it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board 40 mm thick is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600÷700 mm.
Prices for edged boards
edged board
So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - a leaking and non-leaking floor.
Leaking wooden floor
This type of floor is designed in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water flows out.
A leaky floor can be arranged approximately according to this scheme:
1 - Log wall of the bathhouse.
2 – Skirting screen, enclosing bottom part walls and corners of the room from direct contact with water. Made from boards.
3 – Drainage backfill consisting of crushed stone and gravel.
4 – Drainage pit for water drainage, filled crushed stone-gravel mixture or waste building materials(for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.)
5 – Leaking floor plank.
6 – Bases for plank planks flooring This option shows laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports.
7 – Shut-off waterproofing between the base and lower crown walls.
8 – Bathhouse foundation, columnar, pile or strip.
9 – A compacted clay layer that redirects water spilled from above into the drainage pit (ditch).
The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using different materials:
- Previously, there was usually no special drainage area under the floor. The water from the bathhouse was drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually on a columnar foundation. And the bathhouse was built, if possible, on a slope so that moisture would not linger under it.
- Another system for draining water from the underground is shown in the diagram above. Under leaking floors there is a kind of drainage made of gravel and/or crushed stone. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly goes into the ground. If a compacted clay castle is made, then penetration does not go all the way area - surplus water gradually flows into the drainage hole. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, some of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in asbestos concrete pipes that support the wooden flooring.
- If the bathhouse is built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it drains perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
- If the soil on the site is difficult for water to pass through, then under the floor you can dig a pit 300–400 mm deep, which is filled with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to become swampy, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.
- More complex design underground leaking floor involves collecting and draining water into drain hole located at a certain distance from the bathhouse, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of a bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit whose walls are located at an angle and converge towards its central part. Then the slopes are covered with crushed stone, which is well compacted. After this, reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone. Next, the slopes are concreted (item 1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, also using concreting, a gutter is created (item 2), into which water that has leaked through the floor will flow down the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, a concrete pit can also be installed in the center or offset to one of the edges, which is connected by a sewer pipe (item 3) to drainage system(pit). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per linear meter length), and water flows down it in a simple overflow.
And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (item 4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (item 5), beams or joists (item 6) are laid on them, along which the plank bath floor (item 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of approximately 5 mm.
If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging underground drainage, then the concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay covering. Compacted clay does not allow moisture to pass through well, so water will flow down such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage hole. But in this case there will certainly be more dirt.
Now that the underground space and water drainage scheme are organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:
- these are floor beams for the underground space (beams or logs);
- logs laid on the floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes the logs are not mounted, they are limited to the beams if they are located with a small step);
- plank flooring, the boards of which are fixed to logs (beams).
A gap of at least 5 mm is left between individual floorboards.
These gaps are necessary for free flow of water downwards. And the width of the gap is chosen taking into account the possible swelling of the wood when it is constantly waterlogged.
Some bathhouse owners make the leaking floor removable in order to ensure that the covering boards can be taken outside for ventilation and drying from time to time. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several boards from logs and boards, with such dimensions that carrying them to the flooring site and back to the street would not be particularly difficult. These panels are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not secured to them.
The advantages of this design include the simplicity of its installation, as well as the relatively low costs of its arrangement.
The most obvious disadvantage of leaking floors is that the bathhouse can be fully used only during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In winter cold, bath rooms will quickly cool down, and their heating requires large number fuel. And catching a cold in such a bathhouse, with a possible cold draft from below, costs nothing.
Prices for timber
Leak-proof design bath wooden floor
The design of a non-leakage floor involves arranging a boardwalk underneath with a slope to allow water to drain away. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of an opening covered with a grate (ladder).
The flooring boards are laid directly on the beams covering the space of the bathhouse, if insulation of the floors is not planned.
If the floor is insulated (and for a bathhouse this is very important), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, a subfloor, insulation and a finished plank covering.
The boards in the construction of a non-leaking floor should be fitted to each other as closely as possible. Therefore, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen for flooring, which will guarantee the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulating material under the coating.
In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but we must not forget about the comfort and safety of the people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, water and soap can make the surface slippery. Typically, a finished floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.
— To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber, cut at the desired angle and secured to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a continuous finished floor.
Prices for drain pipes
drain pipe
— In the designated location, a hole is cut in the subfloor to install a drain pipe with a drain. The drain hole itself should be located at the lowest point of the floor slope or in its center, if the floor slope is provided in this direction.
— The next step is to lay insulation boards between the joists on the subfloor - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the joists and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled with foam.
— Then, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which is sewn to the joists with staples driven in with a stapler, and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.
— The edges of the waterproofing material must be raised on the walls, to the height 150÷200 mm and secure with staples.
— The plank flooring is being installed, with the floorboards fitting as tightly as possible. At the same time, they try to use hidden fastening technology so that the fastener heads (nails or screws) were completely hidden (this is very important for a bathhouse).
— The joints of the drainage ladder parts with the finished floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.
— Then, the walls of the room are sheathed so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.
— At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.
Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished; they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two to three layers.
The advantages of a leak-proof wooden bath floor include the following qualities:
- Possibility of creating an insulated structure.
- Possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
- Creating the most favorable microclimate in bathhouses.
- Wood itself is a warm material, so bathhouse visitors will be comfortable in the room.
The disadvantages of a wooden floor of this design include the following:
- If the lumber is insufficiently processed, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot or become covered at the edges with dark spots of mold.
- Wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coverings in their durability.
Concrete floors in the bathhouse
Concrete floors in the bathhouse - also quite popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs and will take a lot of time. But, having done them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, in order for a concrete floor to last such a long time, it must be equipped according to all the rules, using high-quality materials.
If you decide to make the floors in the bathhouse concrete, you need to know what positive and negative qualities they have.
- As mentioned above, concrete coating is the most durable compared to all others.
- The material is not subject to rotting and is resistant to moisture.
- Once installed, a concrete floor does not require any special maintenance.
- A wide variety of concrete cladding with decorative materials is available.
- There is the possibility of laying under a screed or under facing tiles water or electrical system"warm floor".
- This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
- The process of arranging the coating is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, since you will have to wait for the concrete to mature before moving on to its finishing and further operation.
- If you do not use the “warm floor” system, the floors in the bathhouse will turn out cold, even if there is insulation material. Therefore, you have to install it on top of concrete or tiles wooden gratings.
- Concrete floor requires decorative coating, otherwise the floors will look unattractive.
The installation of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:
— The first step is to install a sewer pipe into the bathhouse, which will drain the spent water. Its vertical pipe should rise above the other preparatory layers.
— The surface of the earthen floor is leveled and thoroughly compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional soil removal, since under concrete screed It is necessary to equip sand and crushed stone (gravel) “pillows”.
— The next step is to pour a sand cushion 100÷1501 mm thick onto the earthen floor, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. The sand must be well compacted.
A layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand, which also must be thoroughly compacted.
- To insulate the floor, you can use bulk materials - the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the required layer over the sand and gravel backfill.
Cement prices
Extruded polystyrene foam is also quite suitable for insulation. From his slabs a continuous covering of the entire floor area is cut out. If there are small gaps or gaps (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the pipe sewer pipe), they are filled with polyurethane foam.
— Insulation material recommended from above waterproof. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or any modern waterproofing agent. The sheets of waterproofing material are laid overlapping and hermetically sealed between a moisture-resistant adhesive tape or bitumen mastic. The canvases should be placed on the walls 100÷150 mm higher than the future screed.
— Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.
— After this, metal beacons are placed on the floor surface, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create the necessary slope of the surface to organize water drainage. Beacons are mounted from the drainage hole in the form of rays, diverging towards the walls, or in parallel with a slope towards one of the walls, if a linear collection of water is organized in the form of a gutter.
- Both with and without insulation, before pouring the solution along the entire perimeter of the future screed, it is fixed to the bottom of the walls damper tape. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of rising temperatures.
- Now you can fill concrete mortar with leveling its surface along the beacons. Alignment is done using building regulations taking measures to compact the concrete as much as possible so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.
— The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if planned, can begin in about two weeks.
— Further, if you plan to cover the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a deep penetration primer, which is applied in one or two layers.
— After the primer has dried, you can cover the floors with ceramic tiles.
— Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction additionally equip the floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric “warm floor” is chosen - cable or using infrared rod mats. It is much easier to install it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.
Prices for ceramic tiles
Water heating involves connection to a heating system. That is, it can only be resorted to if the bathhouse is located either directly in the house, or in an adjacent extension, or is located in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be installed without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid before the screed is poured.
“Warm floor” is extremely comfortable!
But it will take a lot of work! Before you begin such a task, you need to read the instructions to really assess your capabilities. Publications on our portal dedicated to self-creation systems - the most complex to implement, and electric "warmfloor" for ceramic tiles - here the task still looks simpler.
How to cover the concrete surface of a bath floor?
Concrete floors in bathhouses can simply become “iron.” That is, dry cement is rubbed into the wet surface of the screed and left as is. Quite primitive, short-lived, and “smacks of a public bathhouse,” whatever you say. For such a floor you will need wooden gratings, as it turns out to be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.
Much higher quality, durable and simple nice option concrete floor finishing is ceramic tiles, which have all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repairs, it is necessary to make high-quality masonry.
Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - can you master it yourself?
Of course, it is possible if you are careful and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. You can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article on our portal.
When choosing ceramic tiles for tiling bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of its surface. In the bathhouse, the mole can be wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. So you shouldn't choose facing material with a smooth surface, since the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.
Today on sale it is not difficult to find flooring that suits the color and pattern tiles with a relief surface, which does not have a glazed coating. Such ceramic cladding practically does not slip, even when wet.
Another material option that can be used for laying concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,
The positive qualities of such flooring include:
- Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
- Absolute moisture resistance. Service life decking boards even in more severe street conditions is at least 30 years old.
- The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
- The boards have a well-designed textured surface, making it very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
- There is a fairly wide range of shades on sale. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
- The material is hygienic because it is not favorable environment for the appearance of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
- The board can be easily cut to any size and is very easy to install. Its weight is small, and flooring can be done without special effort remove to fresh air for ventilation.
- The material is “warm” to the touch and can fully replace plank flooring.
Decking can be laid with boards on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaky construction of bath floors, replacing a regular board with it.
Garden parquet - this covering option can also be used for laying on the concrete floor of a bathhouse, which has a drain. The material has all the qualities of a wood-polymer terrace boards and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material is that, if necessary, the slabs can be very quickly dismantled, for example, for the convenience of cleaning a concrete floor, and then laid in place. Special system their lock connections makes such installation or dismantling generally the simplest task.
Thanks to the fact that manufacturers floor coverings They are constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time; it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for bathhouse floors.
So, possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used Fortheir creation. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which option is most suitable for a particular room and will correspond to both the wishes and financial capabilities of the bathhouse owner
Some aspects of creating bath floors, obvious and quite controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the reader’s attention:
Video: Options for creating high-quality floors in a bathhouse
Upon completion of the assembly of the frame of the bathhouse building, you can begin interior finishing work, among which flooring procedures occupy a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide, as well as photo and video instructions.
First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete and ordinary ceramic tiles can be used to make bath floors (in some cases, floors can be made directly on clay).
The main thing you should focus on when carrying out work is ensuring normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in “hot” rooms, it is under no circumstances allowed to use synthetic materials (linoleum, for example), which, when heated strongly, can release toxic and harmful substances.
When carrying out such work, special attention should also be paid to the insulation of the floor covering, which directly affects the comfort of the procedures performed. In cases where you decide to make a concrete floor, be sure to ensure that the top is closed wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable conditions washing.
Wooden
From all of the above, it follows that before making a floor in a bathhouse, you will definitely need to decide on the material used for its manufacture.
Wooden floors are recommended to be made from softwood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous, water-impervious covering, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, ensuring the free flow of washing waste.
Solid or “no-leak” floors are made by embedding joists directly into clay or installing them on concrete (preferably with a slight recess) and then covering them tightly with tongue and groove boards. But before this, a classic screed is made on the concrete surface, which has a slight slope towards the drain. In this case, at a certain point, on the edge or in the middle of the room, a waste collector is installed, connected to the sewer system of your home.
Preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:
- First, well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand, which is subsequently filled with liquid concrete.
- In its shape, the surface to be poured should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with the center at the place where wastewater is collected (with a protective grill installed in the drain).
- Then they are mounted on brick columns wooden joists, serving as the basis for placing the flooring.
- And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.
When arranging such a floor, take care of waterproofing the columns supporting the joists by placing under them pieces of felting felt or roofing felt, folded in several layers. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old concrete slabs can be used as support. You should also pay attention to the fact that you can begin preparing the floors in the steam room and washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepared the foundation for the heater.
We must not lose sight of the need for antiseptic treatment of wooden structural elements, and also do not forget about the ventilation of spaces under the floor, ensuring their safety. In particular, the removal of wet fumes can be organized through the use of a furnace ash.
Concrete floor in washing room and steam room
Many experts consider installing a concrete floor in a bathhouse to be economically correct and profitable solution. This method of flooring is supported by the long service life of concrete. High-quality screed can serve for more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor it is worth noting:
- Resistant to temperature changes and high humidity.
- Doesn't rot.
- Harmful microorganisms and fungi do not develop on concrete.
You don't need to buy expensive products to care for your concrete floor. household chemicals. In addition, you have the opportunity to decorate the floor, for example, with tiles.
A lot of water is used in the bath. This suggests the need for drainage facilities. Before concreting the floor, a drainage system should be designed and implemented. To do this, you need to determine the point that will allow you to most easily equip sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit with a size of 40x40x30 cm. The simplest method of treating a pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.
Then a drainage system should be made from this reservoir into a sewer hatch/septic tank. For these purposes you can use fan pipe, having a diameter of 200 mm.
The soil should be leveled and then compacted. Then fill the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. The gravel can be replaced with broken bricks. The next layer is crushed stone 10 cm thick.
After the crushed stone has been compacted, a layer of concrete 5 cm thick should be poured. It should be made at a slope towards the preliminary wastewater tank.
To significantly reduce heat loss in a bathhouse, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has hardened. Expanded clay can be used as insulation. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5–8 cm.
This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often, construction felt or construction felt is used for these purposes. mineral wool. But, it is worth considering the fact that when installing mineral wool as insulation, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing felt can be used as a waterproofing layer.
Bitumen should be poured between the floor and the wall.
Another option for floor insulation is pouring cement mortar with perlite (rock of volcanic origin). It began to be used in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.
Perlite is very lightweight material, so work with it must be carried out indoors.
The mixing is done in a concrete mixer. It is important to strictly follow the instructions indicated on the product packaging.
A second concrete layer should be poured over the insulation or waterproofing (this depends on the insulation material you installed). In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh (this can be wire or reinforced mesh) before pouring concrete. In order for the resulting concrete to be strong, it must be compacted, leveled, and tension concrete poured on top.
Used to fill screed sand-cement mortar or self-leveling mixture. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, it is better to buy cement mixture designed for these purposes.
The screed needs to be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the solution with a trowel. You need to tighten it with a rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed must harden, this process takes several days.
With the addition of plasticizers, the hardening process of concrete is accelerated. They, among other things, increase the strength of concrete, reliably connect the components of the mortar together and prevent the possibility of cracks.
The screed hardens completely in 3 weeks. In the first week, it needs to be watered from time to time.
The quality of the surface is determined after the concrete has completely dried. If the screed has a single color gray shade, then this indicates its homogeneity. In addition, durable and high-quality concrete will not show noticeable marks from a hammer blow.
Ceramic tiles are most often used to finish concrete floors in bathhouses. The tiles will also look impressive. A significant drawback of tiles is that when wet, they become slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, from a practical point of view, it is better to lay Metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.
You should not use linoleum and other synthetic coatings in bathhouses (even in those where temperatures are not as high as in a steam room). The fact is that during the heating process, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.
Auxiliary premises
In rooms with low humidity levels and relatively low temperatures, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum that are prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a covering is laid on top of a special flooring, which makes it possible to dry the floors. When using such a base flooring It turns out double, consisting of rough and finishing flooring.
When working on the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
- the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level exceeding this mark by at least 30 cm;
- for the manufacture of natural wood floors, edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
- Laying logs on brick columns in such structures is mandatory.
The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style is essentially no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to perform the following operations:
- Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, soil is first selected (to a depth of approximately 45–50 cm).
- The resulting area is filled to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then thoroughly compacted.
- The boards are laid directly onto the prepared base, which is quite consistent with floors made using ancient methods.
Video
This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about flooring in a bathhouse:
Photo
Schemes
These diagrams will help you in arranging the floor in the bathhouse:
