Foam insulation indoors - technology and important installation nuances. Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with polystyrene foam - installation instructions Insulation of house walls with foam plastic technology

The cheapness of the necessary materials, as well as its simplicity.

You can cope with the task without the help of specialized specialists, and the end result will allow you to increase the thermal insulation of the living space by up to 40-60 percent and, accordingly, save on heating.

What kind of material is this?

Manufacturers of building materials offer a whole lot of materials as insulation. But polystyrene is among them the most attractive in technical terms. It is lightweight, has a high thermal insulation coefficient and is resistant to negative impact environment.

Styrofoam - This is foamed polystyrene. Most of its volume (98 percent) is occupied by air.

Directly for insulation you need facade foam. It's in the title specially marked with the letter “F”. It differs from the usual one in its density and the presence of technical additives, which are designed to increase its rigidity and prevent the occurrence of dents during installation and operation.

Types and brands

In addition to the usual polystyrene foam type EPP, there is also extruded variation, designated as EPPS.

It is obtained in a similar way, but is mixed in an extruder followed by pressing and foaming through the head.

Thanks to this processing, it becomes more rigid and resistant to mechanical damage with a similar density (from 10 to 35 kilograms per cubic meter), however, it costs a little more.

Extruded foam is rarely used as insulation, but its advantage is strength. But due to the high styrene residue it is considered toxic, unsafe in terms of fire.

Visually, it is distinguished by the absence of foam balls, like PPS. It is produced in slabs with a density of 10 to 20 kilograms per cubic meter, but it has high moisture absorption coefficient.

Main brands produced:

PSB-15. Its thermal conductivity is only 0.043 W/m. Cubic meter This one weighs up to 15 kilograms. Suitable for internal sound insulation and for installation in balcony structures. Thickness according to GOST – 10, 20 and 50 millimeters.
PSB-25. Thermal conductivity at the level of 0.041 W/m. Density – from 15.1 to 25 kg/m3. The best option for insulation one-story houses, non-residential premises. Thickness according to GOST – 20, 30, 40, 50 millimeters.
PSB-35. Thermal conductivity – 0.039 W/m. Density – from 25 to 35 kg/m3. It is used to insulate the first floor of multi-storey buildings, the basement, floors (combined with heating flooring). Thickness – 50 and 100 millimeters.

You might be interested to know about modern materials for insulating the walls of a house outside. Read in this article.

The higher the density, the better the thermal insulation and rigidity of the finished structure. But at the same time, or a façade. And you need to take into account that only standardized sizes of insulation slabs are indicated.

Manufacturers undertake the production of thermal insulation of any size. That is, it is quite possible to order polystyrene foam type PSB-10 with a thickness of 5 millimeters.

Required thickness of thermal insulation

For right choice foam thickness required consider weather environment, and construction material, which was used as the main one in the construction of the structure.

brick house - from 5 centimeters and more (optimally - 7 centimeters);
concrete - from 5 centimeters of grade PSB-35;
wooden - from 7 centimeters, insulation wooden house must be carried out with a membrane mesh;
for logs - from 7 centimeters, it is recommended to level the base;
frame houses - from 5 centimeters, it is advisable to also insulate from the inside by laying thermal insulation material under the crate.

The presented figures are relevant regarding the use of façade-type PPS with a density of 25-35 kilograms.

Is it possible to carry out work in winter?

Most homeowners are already thinking about insulation. with the onset of frost.

But the most surprising thing is that many companies agree to install foam plastic during this period, which is a gross violation residential insulation technologies.

Let's figure out at what temperature outside you can start insulating a private house. The minimum permissible conditions are from +5 degrees and above, under which the technical qualities of the glue used are preserved. We should not forget about the expansion of materials when heated.

Although foam plastic is elastic, this does not apply to plaster, holes for dowels-fungi, which will wear out over time.

And despite the fact that some manufacturers produce specialized “winter” glue, there is no need to use it. Firstly, it costs more, and secondly, its adhesion is significantly worse.

The procedure for insulating a house with your own hands

The main difficulty of insulating a house with your own hands is the initial selection of necessary materials and preparation of the walls. But, if you follow the proposed algorithm, cover your home with foam plastic even a beginner can do it.

So, you need to start by preparing the walls. This stage includes cleaning from the dusty layer (using a soft cord brush is allowed) and treating with a primer. It is not necessary to level out all existing unevenness, but It is advisable to remove large cracks and potholes at least with glue cement.

Setting up a profile

Next, you can begin attaching the starting profile. Definitely a variety must match the thickness of the foam(example: UW-50, UW-100, UW-70). The profiles provide perforation for standard self-tapping screws. The use of self-tapping flea screws without visible heads is permitted.

Why is a profile needed? This is an additional support for the outer polystyrene foam sheets. Between slats of metal profiles an indentation of 3-5 millimeters is made to level out their expansion when heated.

Slopes

Slopes additionally protect the room from leakage warm air through window openings. Window finishing is carried out immediately after installing the frame, after waiting for the polyurethane foam packed into the cracks to dry.

The optimal offset for slopes is 3 centimeters. Experts do not recommend immediately aligning the foam with the bend under the opening. Better add an extra 1-2 centimeters and in the future carefully align with the main finish.

As for external window sills, they must perform beyond the thermal insulation by 3-4 centimeters.

If the distance is smaller, water will fall on the thermal insulation (this will increase the heat transfer coefficient).

The process looks like this:

The remaining gaps around the perimeter of the frame are eliminated with cement(it is better to use glue-cement).
At the site of future slopes primer is applied, it is possible in several layers for better adhesion of materials.
Then an adhesive solution is prepared. As a rule, 250 milliliters of water are added per 1 kilogram of dry base. The glue should be thick like sour cream.
Next, the adhesive base is applied to the foam itself and presses along the slope. Do not forget about adding 1-2 centimeters above the level of the opening.
After the main gluing of the slopes - joints are treated with glue. After drying, the product is additionally coated with the base using a roller.
Further you need to glue the fiberglass mesh. Perforated corners are placed on internal and external joints.
The mesh is primed on top. Before doing this, it is better to cover the glass with masking tape.

Installation of slabs

The technology for installing thermal insulation is practically no different from installing slopes, but slabs are already used here. They are located vertically, fit into checkerboard pattern – this will reduce heat loss through the formed seams.

First line of insulation placed along the guide profile. Before applying glue to the foam, each of the slabs can be processed with a toothed shaft. The adhesive base is applied with a regular spatula, without excess (acceptable thickness - up to 2 millimeters).

To provide additional structural rigidity the use of dowels-fungi is allowed. The optimal layout for their installation is 100 by 50 centimeters (horizontally and vertically, respectively).

IN apartment buildings, during construction, care is taken to insulate the external walls, due to which the cost of heating is two to three times lower than that of a house with the same area.

Therefore, the problem of heat conservation is especially relevant for private homes. different areas. Most affordable option there will be insulation of the walls with polystyrene foam with your own hands, which will not only recoup its cost for short term, but will also last much longer than the manufacturer indicates in the “Shelf life” column.

Everyone in their life has at least once seen polystyrene foam - light white slabs that crumble into many grains. Thanks to its structure, the insulating material has excellent thermal conductivity - up to 0.042 W/m*K, density - up to 40 kg/m3, temperature regime usage - 55? C to +75? C, water absorption up to 2% of volume and vapor permeability index - 0.05.

This universal insulation, it is well suited for insulating walls, basement and roof. Its light weight is convenient for transporting insulation, installation and does not put too much stress on the walls. Foam insulation is safe for the environment; the material is not susceptible to biological effects.

Disadvantages of foam insulation

When insulating a house with polystyrene foam, take into account its features, which can harm you or cause material losses if done incorrectly. Among these nuances are the following factors:

rodents can wear down slabs in a matter of days;
easily damaged by paint and solvents;
relation to G3-G4 - high class by flammability;
slabs are highly flammable;
When burned, toxins that are hazardous to health are released.

Attention: such shortcomings are smoothed out by using the right technology preservation of foam plastic under plaster.

Things needed for work

Before you insulate the walls with foam plastic, you need to acquire the following materials:

Styrofoam optimal thickness in the right quantity;

Advice: if according to calculations it turns out that slabs 1 cm thick are suitable for walls, then in order to avoid cold bridges at the joints of the material, take sheets of 0.5 cm each and glue them overlapping.

special glue;
starting profile;
dowels with a large diameter cap;

Tip: The length of the dowel depends on the type of wall. For brick you need 1.2 cm or more, for concrete and cinder block - from 0.9 cm. This is in the case of using slabs 0.5 cm thick.

reinforcing mesh;
profile for designing slopes;
corner with mesh;
plaster mixture;
facade paint.

Selecting a material grade

To insulate the facade, use the PSB-S-25 brand. This is due to its strength and heat retention properties. Despite the fact that PSB-S-15 retains heat better due to the larger amount of air inside. For the same reason, it has the following disadvantages:

difficult to cut straight;
fragile, crumbles a lot during operation;
plaster does not apply well;
it is impossible to grout;
the surface is easy to push through, even if a mesh was used in the process.

Selection of slab thickness

Calculating the optimal thickness is especially important if the walls of your house are made of brick. A thin layer helps to collect moisture in the bricks, which will increase the rate of destruction of the building. In winter, moisture becomes ice, and after insulating the wall, it becomes covered with bubbles and can burst. To avoid negative consequences, choose the thickness of the slabs for upholstering the house with foam plastic on the outside based on:

climate features of the region, the highest and low temperature within its limits, the strength of the wind;
desired effect;
wall material.

Attention: one wall may require one thickness, and another wall of the same house may require a completely different thickness. There is no need to pay more for thick slabs if thinner ones suit you.

Quantity of material

When you know the area of the insulated surface, minus windows and doors, add the footage by 10% and select the number of slabs that correspond to these dimensions. The number of slabs for insulating walls outside, multiplied by five, is equal to required quantity plastic dowels. The reinforcing mesh is also taken taking into account 10% more. Co plaster mixture It will help you determine the consumable mesh on the packaging of the manufacturer you like.

Stage 1: Prepare the surface

The technology for insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside involves performing preparatory work:

Remove decorative elements from the facade;
Dismantle the ebb tides;
Remove for now water pipes, pieces of reinforcement and other protruding elements;
Carefully inspect every centimeter of the external walls to seal any existing cracks and depressions with mortar;
Check the evenness in different directions using a level. If the difference is more than 2 cm, knock down the protrusions;
Delete old paint, dust and dirt;
Using a roller or brush, cover the walls with a primer that helps improve the adhesion strength of the foam to the walls;
After the primer layer has dried, insulation of the outer walls with foam plastic immediately begins.

Advice: when you insulate the walls with foam plastic from the outside with your own hands, and the surface to be treated occupies a large area, it will be objective to use a spray bottle.

Stage 2: Installation of flashings and insulation of slopes

Low tides are made before insulating the house with polystyrene foam with your own hands. The edges should protrude 3–4 cm beyond the insulated wall. Window slopes provide more insulation thin material than polystyrene foam for the facade. Next, the connection is made to the main heat insulator.

Installation options for foam boards

There are only three options for attaching insulation:

Adhesive - finishing the outside with foam plastic using an adhesive mass, which is made by mixing the dry mixture with water with a mixer;
Nailing - using dowels for cohesion, one in the center and four in the corners. Nails or polymer inserts are hammered into the caps;
Combined method - includes both methods of how to properly insulate a house with polystyrene foam from the outside, providing the most durable adhesion. You can choose which method to use yourself.

Stage 3: Installation of slabs

During the installation process you will need the following tools:

spatulas 8 and 20 cm;
container for solution;
mixer for good mixing;
building level.

Divorce glue mixture, for example, Ceresit CM 83 in a container. The proportions for the solution are indicated by the manufacturers. To prevent the solution from hardening before application, mix it in portions. Take two spatulas - pick up the small ones and place them on the large one, which is needed to apply the mortar to the wall or slab.

In the first option, due to the curvature of the wall, the foam will not adhere well to the surface, contributing to heat loss. In this case, glue is applied to the facade. It levels it out by adjusting the layer thickness.

The second option is suitable if you managed to level the walls. In this case, we lay out the solution with a dotted line on the edge of the sheet, with an indentation of 2–3 cm. Next, we make 6–8 patches inside the dotted line.

Stage 4: Installation of slabs

To begin, secure the starting strip at the bottom along the perimeter of the building with dowels or anchors. During the process, use a building level to achieve an even horizontal level. The profile not only protects the foam from sliding down until a strong adhesion is formed, but also prevents rodents from penetrating into the insulation sheets.

Installation of slabs begins from any lower corner. When the solution is applied, press the insulation against the wall. Align it with the starting profile. Use a level to ensure it is level. Shift each new row to ensure installation reliability. After laying all the panels, you should leave the structure until completely dry, this takes up to three days.

Attention: mortar should not show through at the joints of the slabs.

Stage 5: Fastening with dowels

After strong adhesion to the external walls, the thermal insulation is secured with dowels.

Tip: to prevent the possible formation of a cold bridge in this place, provide the insulation with a plastic core

Thanks to this, it will be possible in the future to apply plaster or decorate the facade with panels. To install a plastic dowel, you need:

use a puncher to make a hole 2 cm deeper than the length of the dowel;
insert it without a nail;
hammer to the level of the foam board;
If necessary, cut off the nails protruding above the heads.

Advice: to securely fasten the insulation, the dowels should be 4–5 times thicker than its slabs.

There are two options for placing dowels:

on one sheet;
in the center of the sheet and at the joints - this method is recommended by experienced specialists for pressing the insulation more tightly to the wall.

Stage 6: Sealing joints and fastenings

Inspect the contact areas of the boards - if you notice gaps larger than 0.5 cm, you should seal them with foam, cutting off the excess after hardening. If they start from 2 cm, place pieces of foam inside and rub the protrusion. Putty the joints and dowel heads glue solution to get a flat wall.

Stage 7: Reinforcement

Layering a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on top will double the life of the finish. For gluing, the mixture is applied in a layer of 0.2–0.3 cm to the outer walls on top of the insulation, the mesh is leveled over the surface of the facade, and lowered into the solution.

When you take another canvas, place 5–7 cm of the first one on the edge. At the junctions of the corners, the mesh is laid on both sides and protected with a metal corner. A wide spatula is used to distribute the solution. If you cannot immediately finish reinforcing all surfaces, do not coat the first and last sheets in areas of future overlap. Grouting can be done after 1–2 days.

Tip: Ceresit CT 85 mixture can be used as an adhesive solution.

Stage 8: Decorating the facade

To prevent your home from looking like a gray, boring building, decorate its surface with decorative plaster. To do this, treat the walls with a primer, apply a base for painting or decorative plaster. Perform these steps after grouting the reinforced mesh.

Attention: to lay sheets of insulation under the siding, first install a frame of wood or metal profile.

Conclusion

Foam plastic is an excellent material for insulation - it can not lose its thermal insulation properties for up to eighty years, providing savings on heating. If you plan to insulate the walls with polystyrene foam yourself, work in sections throughout all stages, except for applying the leveling layer - it is better to finish it on the day you start. Now you can insulate your home efficiently and for a long time.

This article is aimed at those people who have decided to insulate their home from the inside with polystyrene foam. Next, I will try to cover in detail all the nuances of this procedure so that you can complete this work as efficiently and effectively as possible.

Is it worth doing internal insulation with foam plastic?

Newbies often ask on forums: is it possible to insulate a house from the inside with polystyrene foam?

To be honest, I am generally against insulating walls from the inside for the following reasons:

This operation isolates the walls from internal heating, as a result of which they stop heating. This even leads in some cases to the appearance of cracks on the walls;

The dew point is transferred towards the room, as a result of which moisture forms between the insulation and the wall. This also negatively affects the durability of the walls;
the floor and ceiling come into contact with the cold walls, as a result of which it serves as a cold bridge. True, this drawback only appears if the floor is concrete, because concrete, as is known, has high thermal conductivity;
The insulation of the house, although insignificant, still reduces the usable area inside the home. For small houses, for example, garden ones, this drawback can also be critical.

Therefore, most often the walls are insulated indoors if it is not possible to perform this operation outside or, for example, it turns out that external thermal insulation is not effective enough.

As for foam plastic, this insulation is also not best choice for internal thermal insulation for a number of reasons:

expanded polystyrene is a fire hazardous material;

in the event of a fire, the foam releases toxins, which leads to poisoning of people inside the building;
has zero vapor permeability, as a result of which, after insulation, the walls stop “breathing”. Therefore, housing needs high-quality thermal insulation.

A good alternative to polystyrene foam is extruded polystyrene foam, which is often fireproof due to the presence of a fire retardant in its composition.

Therefore, I do not recommend insulating housing with foam plastic permanent residence. But if you need to insulate country house, which is used from time to time, or a balcony, then in general polystyrene foam is a good option.

The fact is that, for all its shortcomings, it also has some important advantages:

low price - you can find polystyrene foam at a price of 1500-2000 rubles per cubic meter;
excellent thermal insulation qualities - the thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is even lower than that of its competitor - mineral wool.

Frame insulation of walls and ceilings

There are two ways to perform foam insulation from the inside of walls and ceilings:

frame;
wet.

First of all, let's consider the frame method of insulation. In my opinion, it is the most optimal, as it allows you to level out some of the shortcomings of internal thermal insulation.

This process includes four main steps:

Preparation of materials

So, to insulate a house using a frame method, you will need:

polystyrene foam - preferably with a low density (15 kg/m3), since it is cheaper and also has lower thermal conductivity;
antifungal agent;
waterproofing film;
wooden slats;
parts for assembling the frame - metal profiles and hangers, as when installing drywall;
material for covering the frame.

Preparing walls and ceilings

Before you insulate the walls with foam plastic from the inside, you need to prepare them as follows:

first of all, free the surface of the walls from shelves, cabinets and other parts that will interfere with work;
if there is old finishing on the walls that is peeling and crumbling, it must be removed;

then treat the surface with an antifungal compound. To do this, you can use a paint roller or brush. You can find out the details of this work from the instructions on the package.

The ceiling is prepared according to the same scheme.

Insulation and installation of the frame

Now you can begin to insulate the walls.

Instructions for performing this operation look like this:

to prevent moisture from accumulating between the insulation and the wall, you should ventilation gap. To do this, you need to fix the slats on the wall, placing them horizontally.

The thickness of the slats should be one and a half to two centimeters. As for the width, it should be such that you can subsequently attach hangers to the sheathing.

The slats should form several belts in half-meter increments, as shown in the diagram above. In addition, make a horizontal gap of several centimeters between the slats;

polystyrene foam for insulating walls inside the house, although to a lesser extent than mineral wool, still absorbs moisture. Therefore, I recommend protecting the material with a waterproofing film.
To do this, secure it tensioned to the slats. To fix the film on the sheathing, you can use a stapler.

It must be said that when insulating the ceiling, there is no need to create a ventilation gap; in addition, there is no need to use a waterproofing film.

after this you need to indicate the position of the profiles on the walls and ceiling using straight lines. To apply them, you can use a painter's cord or a building level and chalk.
The lines are drawn in increments of 60 cm. In this case, you need to retreat 10 cm from the corner;

on the resulting lines it is necessary to indicate the locations of the suspensions at a distance of half a meter from each other;
Now, according to the markings, you should install the hangers. As a rule, they are secured with dowel nails. During the installation process, make sure that the suspension is positioned strictly perpendicular to the profile lines;

Now you can insulate the wall and ceiling. To do this, you simply need to pin the slab onto hangers, having previously made cuts for them.
To fix the slabs to the ceiling, you can use foam glue or dowels. On walls, as a rule, the insulation is simply supported by hangers; subsequently it will be pressed down by the racks. However, it is temporarily possible to fix the slabs on the strips with self-tapping screws and wide washers;

after this the frame is assembled. First, I recommend fixing the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, as with a standard frame assembly for drywall. To ensure that the profiles are located at the same level, after installing the guide on the ceiling, draw a line on the floor using plumb lines;
then the racks are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers using self-tapping screws;

after this, along the perimeter of the ceiling you need to install guides on the walls in horizontal position. Next, profiles are inserted into these guides and fixed in suspensions on the ceiling.

Keep in mind that ceiling profiles can sag, so they should be leveled during installation. To do this, you can even stretch the threads between the outer profiles.

The frame can be made not only from metal profiles, but also wooden beams. In this case, the insulation is inserted into the space between the racks.

This completes the insulation. Now I'm left final stage- This is the lining of the frame. For these purposes, you can use drywall, lining, plastic or other materials.

I will not describe this procedure, since you can familiarize yourself with it from other articles on our portal.

Wet insulation

Now I will tell you how to insulate a house with foam plastic inside by gluing it, i.e. wet method. This technology also includes several steps:

Preparation of materials

First of all, I note that for insulating walls and ceilings using the wet method, it is advisable to use denser foam than for insulating by frame technology. The fact is that in this case the material will not only insulate the walls and ceiling, but also perform a load-bearing function, and also absorb all shock loads. That's why the best option is expanded polystyrene with a density of 25 kg/m3.

In addition to insulation, you will also need:

adhesive for polystyrene foam, for example, Ceresit CT85. The same composition can also be used for rough plastering of insulation.
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
putty for walls and ceilings.

Installation of insulation

We will omit the process of preparing the walls, since I have already talked about it. The only thing I note is that before installing the insulation, the walls need to be primed using a brush or roller. Moreover, the primer is applied in two layers with a time interval so that the first layer has time to dry.

The instructions for installing foam plastic look like this:

First of all, you need to prepare the glue. To do this, pour it into a bucket, fill it with water and mix thoroughly. The solution should have a dough-like consistency;
then apply the adhesive solution to the entire surface of the slab, and then give it a relief with a notched trowel;

Now place the first slab against the wall. Start installation from the bottom of the corner.
Press the plate against the wall and adjust its position according to the level;
then install the stove in the same way near the opposite corner and adjust it according to the level;

After this, stretch a thread between the two plates so that the intermediate plates can be aligned with it. To do this, tie a thread to two nails, and then insert the nails into the ribs foam boards. As a result, the thread should pass strictly along the ribs;
then glue all the intermediate plates;

You should start gluing the second row from half of the slab in order to move the vertical seams. As a result, the insulation should be staggered.
Further installation is carried out according to the same principle as pasting the first row. The only thing is to make sure that there are no vertical deviations of one row relative to the other. Thanks to this, the walls will be smooth;
Using the same principle, you need to glue the insulation to the ceiling;
After the glue hardens, the foam plastic must be additionally secured with dowels. Fasteners must secure the foam in the corners, as well as in the center.

Thus, 5-6 fasteners are required per slab. To save dowels, they can be placed at the joints of the slabs. Thus, one cap will fix several slabs at once.

The process of installing fasteners is quite simple - you need to drill a hole to the required depth, then insert the “umbrella” itself and hammer a nail into it. The nail is driven in so that the head is slightly recessed into the insulation.

At this point, the installation of the thermal insulation material is completed.

Preparing for rough finishing

Preparation for rough finishing is carried out as follows:

Be sure to fill any gaps between the foam with adhesive foam or scraps of insulation;
if there are differences at the joints, rub them with a special grater;
all recesses created after installing the fasteners must be filled with glue;

existing external corners must be protected from chipping and damage with perforated plaster corners. Glue them with glue and level them.

Rough finish

Now all that remains is to do the rough finishing of the ceiling and walls with your own hands, which is done like this:

First prepare the reinforcement mesh. It needs to be cut into strips according to the height of the room and the width of the ceiling.
Please note that the canvases on the walls and ceiling should overlap each other by 7-10 centimeters. In addition, the mesh must be wrapped at the corners;
then prepare the glue and apply it with a notched trowel to an area equal to the size of one strip of mesh;

Next, attach the mesh to the surface treated with glue, align it vertically (you can do it by eye), and run a wide spatula over it from above. In the process of ironing the canvas with a spatula, the mesh will be completely covered with protruding glue. The result should be a flat and smooth surface;

When the adhesive composition has completely dried, it must be applied in a second layer about 3 mm thick. This will further protect the insulation from mechanical damage, as well as eliminate minor surface imperfections;
after the glue has dried, the walls and ceiling need to be primed again;

To complete the work, you should putty the walls and ceiling. If the surface is smooth enough, use finishing putty, which is applied in a thin layer.

If the level of differences exceeds several millimeters, use starting putty.

At this point, the insulation of the ceiling and walls from the inside with foam plastic is completed.

A few words about floor insulation

Polystyrene foam can be used to insulate not only walls and ceilings, but also floors.

Moreover, there are two technologies for using it for these purposes:

dry – used for floors on joists;
wet - allows you to insulate a concrete floor.

Floor insulation on joists

To insulate the floor on the joists, you need to prepare the following materials:

polystyrene foam - you can use low-density boards, for example, 15 kg/m3;
waterproofing film;
wood antiseptic.

The work is carried out like this:

if there is flooring on the floor, it must be dismantled;

if there is no subfloor between the joists, it must be done. To do this, fasten the cranial bars to the joists and lay the slats on top of them;
all details wooden structure treat with an antiseptic;
then cover the joists and subfloor with waterproofing film;
after that, fill the space between the joists with foam plastic;

Lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the joists and foam plastic;
to complete the work, lay boards on the joists standard scheme.

Insulation of concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor with polystyrene foam, prepare the following materials:

Styrofoam - use the thickest brand for these purposes, i.e. PSB-S-35, since it has the greatest strength;
waterproofing film;
materials for pouring screed.

The insulation process looks like this:

first prepare the base - clear it of debris and dust. You also need to remove areas that have crumbled and contain a sharp surface that can break through the film;
Next, cover the floor with film, making sure to wrap it at the corners. Tape the waterproofing joints;
Lay polystyrene foam on top of the waterproofing. At the same time, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates;

then cover the insulation with another layer of waterproofing;
Now you need to pour the screed on top of the film according to the standard scheme. The only thing I recommend is to reinforce it with fiber, since the mesh can tear the waterproofing during installation.

This completes the insulation of the house.

Conclusion

From this article you learned about all the main nuances of insulating a home from the inside with polystyrene foam, so you can safely get to work. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I will be happy to answer you.

Filipino aborigines can easily do without insulating their homes with polystyrene foam, given the stable heat on the islands all year round, but in our case, refuse good insulation Walls in winter are like going out into the cold without a hat - it’s possible, but it’s stupid and unpleasant.

Together with the publication's experts, we figure out how to insulate a house inside and out, what extruded polystyrene foam is and what is better to insulate - polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene?

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Pros of expanded polystyrene

high strength with light weight;
low vapor permeability and noise absorption;
high resistance to chemicals;
environmentally friendly;
fireproof;
moisture resistant;
retains its original shape throughout the entire period of operation;
low cost.

Cons of expanded polystyrene

fragility.

Polystyrene foam insulation technology

Typically, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of premises from the outside, but it is also suitable for internal insulation of residential premises, although with reservations: EPS “steals” space, is not “breathable” and when insulated from the inside it emits a characteristic odor. It is better to pay attention to other material.

To glue EPS to the wall, use a special adhesive (glue or foam for expanded polystyrene). As a rule, this is a dry mixture, which is diluted in warm water room temperature and knead to a uniform, lump-free consistency.

IMPORTANT! When working with extruded polystyrene foam, glue or foam is applied in advance, approximately an hour before the EPS is attached, in an even layer on the wall and on the sheet itself.

Special dowels and plastic nails with “umbrella” caps are used. It is advisable to combine both glue and dowels.

Surface preparation and sheet application technology

Work progress:

Step 1 - Clean and prime the surface before insulation, mark it with “beacons” Step 5 - If the wall is level, use a notched trowel, thanks to which an even and fairly economical layer is obtained Photo 7 - When the glue has set, holes are drilled in the wall through the slabs according to the diameter of the dowels Step 11 - The reinforced layer is additionally leveled with a solution, dried again, primed and then subjected to finishing plaster, onto which the wall finishing is applied

IMPORTANT! All work on wall insulation must be carried out on a dry day at a temperature not lower than +5 °C.

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam

And wooden, and frame, and brick house can be insulated using PPS. Owners of private houses are increasingly using expanded polystyrene for external insulation. Insulate frame house- a relatively new achievement, not all cottage owners trust it.

The sequence of insulating a frame house:

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The above technology is also relevant for self-insulation of walls with polystyrene foam. But which insulation is better to choose, what types are offered? Maybe better liquid material? How to correctly calculate the thickness?

Main stages of external insulation:

prepare surfaces: cleaning, filling cracks and cracks;
prepare an adhesive mixture or use polyurethane foam glue;
apply glue to the polystyrene foam boards: first lay out the edging, in the middle - dotted;
fix the slabs with dowels with mushroom-shaped plastic caps;
coat the slabs with glue, apply reinforcing mesh;
putty the seams;
plaster, prime the walls, apply decorative plaster or paint.

Ceiling insulation

Few people think about insulating the ceiling from the inside, but if the ceiling is not insulated, then all the heat goes up to the ceiling and to the street. Even a non-professional can insulate the ceiling if desired, the installation technology is so simple:

count the quantity required material- multiply the length of the room by the width;
clean the ceiling from whitewash or wallpaper;
complete all electrical work;
eliminate all roughness on the ceiling before starting work, since the surface of the ceiling must be smooth;
It is advisable to carry out work in warm time of the year;
After cleaning, treat the ceiling surface with a primer solution;
prepare sheets, cut them if necessary, adjusting them to fit the size of the ceiling;
secure in a checkerboard pattern using dowels;
attach a painting mesh to the surface and putty;

To insulate them, a polystyrene foam shell is used. Today, thanks to its reliability and durability, it is the most the best option. Expanded polystyrene shell is offered different diameters, which is very convenient, since you can select insulation for any pipes Ø from 17 mm to 1220 mm.

In the event of an accident, it is possible to quickly gain access to a certain place through special grooves, which will allow you to easily and quickly dismantle the insulation and then return everything to its place.

IMPORTANT! It has been confirmed that such insulation can protect the pipe for up to 50 years at temperatures down to -70°C.

Window slopes

This method of insulating windows is used in buildings made of wood, lined with brick. Brick is cooler than wood, and temperature changes lead to condensation and freezing of windows, which deforms the window structure.

Stages of work:

cut polystyrene foam into strips 5-8 cm thick;
cover the external slopes around the window with them, which forms a spacing in relation to the internal slope;
after the glue has dried, install the window by mounting the fasteners to the wall and filling polyurethane foam cracks;
On the outside, the slopes must be plastered after the glue and foam have dried, which, after settling, will not allow cold air to pass through.

Armopoyas

The insulation of the armored belt should be carried out from the outside of the building. It is better to insulate directly during construction. A colored polystyrene foam board measuring 60x120cm is suitable for this:

cut the slab in half lengthwise and fix it on the wall;
Putty the joints with sealant and paint.

Doors

The main heat loss occurs through entrance doors. You can insulate the PPS as follows: wooden doors, and metal.

Insulation of wooden doors:

cut a single piece from a sheet of polystyrene foam to the size of the wooden panel;
stick it on the door;
cover with sheathing material;
around the entire perimeter door leaf fill the slats (the thickness of a sheet of polystyrene foam);
lay insulation between the slats with glue;
On top of the slats, fill the finish in the form of laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood.

Insulation of metal doors:

IMPORTANT! Usually in the manufacture of metal doors they use sheet material, welded on the sides with corners, i.e. There are voids inside that should be filled from the inside for additional insulation.

take the dimensions (width and length) of the canvas along which the fiberboard panel will be cut to cover the layer of polystyrene foam;
transfer the dimensions of the door leaf onto fiberboard plywood, mark the location and dimensions of the handle and eyelet, cut openings for them;
to check that all marks are correct, you need to attach the panel directly to the door;
cut sheets of polystyrene foam using sharp knife and glue them to the inside of the door leaf using silicone, which is applied in an even, dense layer over the entire surface;
keep in mind that the thickness of polystyrene foam is determined by the size of the corner shelf;
cover the insulation with a fiberboard panel, put the bit on a screwdriver and screw the fiberboard to the door leaf with self-tapping screws;

IMPORTANT! Stiffening rib metal door made of a hollow tube, in winter period she gets frostbitten and a “refrigerator” effect is observed. You should fill it from the inside with polyurethane foam by drilling holes in the pipe with a drill, where the foam is poured.

Basement

If the basement on the first floors is not properly designed, condensation may occur at low surface temperatures. Consequences: mold, mildew. The foundation needs to be insulated, even if a usable basement is not provided in the house.

Features of insulating a basement or cellar with polystyrene foam

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

not susceptible to rodent attacks;
not very fragile;
waterproof;
easy to process;
light weight, which eliminates additional load on supporting structures.

Disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam

will cost more;
flammable and toxic.

It is necessary to carry out all work on waterproofing and insulating the foundation or basement during the construction stage. If they are not done, during operation you should:

create a drainage system;
waterproof the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;
insulate the basement inside and out.

Installation with expanded polystyrene

seal cracks and voids in the walls with polyurethane foam or sealant;
Irregularities that interfere with the fastening of the slabs should be plastered;
treat the walls with waterproofing material - liquid rubber, bitumen mastic, roll material;
Glue expanded polystyrene slabs onto the surface from bottom to top end-to-end, the next row is mounted on the previous one with the seams staggered;
secure additionally with dowels (5 pcs per workpiece);
foam the seams;
Treat the outside of the slabs with plaster. It is recommended to use fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the process;
apply penetrating waterproofing to the cellar ceiling;
glue the slabs and secure with dowel nails;
glue fiberglass mesh and plaster.

For a foundation made of reinforced concrete slabs:

waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with bitumen mastic between the layers;
lay high-density polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam;
make a screed.

For an earthen basement or cellar:

remove the turf and level the surface;
place waterproofing material;
pour a gravel-sand cushion and compact it;
An alternative to a pillow would be expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture
lay insulation;
make a screed.

The basement is ready for finishing, for this they use paint, plaster, porcelain tiles.

Facade insulation

Work progress:

prepare the walls and prime them;
waterproofing of the base is carried out after it has dried; compositions based on epoxy resins are ideal for this;
glue and fix the plates with plastic dowels (both dry mixtures and glue in cylinders, for example, ST-84, are suitable for fastening polystyrene foam);
finish the façade with mesh using a reinforcing compound;
Any type of finishing is possible on top of the protective layer: decorative rock, siding, decorative plaster compositions.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the base, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam - it is stiffer.

Insulating the foundation of a house from the outside

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine what thickness of PPS will be sufficient to insulate the foundation.

Technology:

apply glue to the slab pointwise (in each corner and in the center from 6-8 points, diameter from 10-15 cm, thickness 1 cm);
after application, wait 1 minute, press the polystyrene foam to the base of the foundation;
insulation begins from the corner of the foundation from below;
the second row is fastened so that the center of the slab is located above the joint of the slabs of the 1st row;
fill the trench with sand to the middle of the slab;
compact the sand;
create an additional layer of thermal insulation at the corners of the foundation;
laying polystyrene foam on the base using glue;
fill the trench;
Make a blind area around the house: fill the area around the perimeter of the building with sand and crushed stone (gravel) and fill it with cement mortar.

Insulation of the blind area

As a rule, the blind area is made of concrete along the entire perimeter of the building. It is adjacent to the foundation and protects it from adverse atmospheric influences.

Advantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

frost resistance;
minimal water absorption;
resistance to mold and mildew;
excellent thermal insulation;
resistance to high temperatures;
light weight;
ease of installation.

Disadvantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

creates a favorable environment for the growth of fungi and mold;
fire hazard.

Most often, PPS is used to insulate the blind area:

laying the material in one layer in sheets 100 mm thick or 50 mm in two layers;
lay high-density polyethylene (plantera, isostood) over a layer of expanded polystyrene to waterproof the joints of the sheets.

Wells

Protection of wells, especially in rural areas, is very important - water supply is necessary at any time of the year. It is imperative to insulate a well cover made of wood and fixed inside the structure itself.

The cover serves as protection against:

temperature changes;
snow and rain;
ingress of dry leaves and other debris.

There are 3 thermal insulation technologies:

thermal insulation of the upper ring;
insulation of the structure cover;
construction of a decorative house.

Work progress:

cut two shields in diameter;
wrap one in film and lower it into the well below ground level;
fix it on hangers;
Be sure to insulate the top with foam plastic;
the second shield is insulated in the same way and placed in the well 0.8m - 1.2m above the first;

Floors

In a residential building, floors are divided into:

attics;
basement;
basement;
interfloor.

The cheapest PPS is suitable for thermal insulation of the floor slab, and the cracks are filled with construction foam. Regarding wooden floors, then insulating material laid between wooden beams.

PPS can really insulate rooms for any purpose, including baths: the properties of the material are ideally preserved at 100% humidity. After insulation, a sheathing is usually installed metal profile or from timber for siding or other facing material, for example, corrugated sheets or panels.

An excellent option would be to insulate external walls with expanded polystyrene foam. Quite often, foam block walls are insulated with expanded polystyrene; the application technology is standard.

For thermal insulation of baths, “ventilated and “wet” facade technologies are used:

preparing walls and calculating the amount of insulation required;
installation of expanded polystyrene, when the sheets are glued end-to-end with a polyurethane, cement, or acrylic adhesive mixture;
large gaps are foamed with polyurethane foam;
installation of sheathing made of metal profiles or timber under siding or other facing material, for example, corrugated board or panels.

Warm plaster, which contains polystyrene foam granules, expanded clay chips, cement, sawdust, plasticizers, is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. In a bathhouse, as a rule, not only the walls outside and inside are insulated, but also the ceiling and floor.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is an eco-friendly material that does not absorb water and is not subject to rotting. They are equally good at insulating walls both outside and inside; the thickness is calculated.

When installing it, there is no need for additional waterproofing:

In order to attach the material to metal gates, you need a good mounting adhesive designed specifically for such work. Quick-hardening liquid nails are quite suitable;
prepare sheets according to required sizes, and stick to the surface. It is advisable to seal the joints with foam;
create another layer from plastic panels, wooden planks or plywood.

Extruded polystyrene foam for home insulation

Today, extruded polystyrene foam is actively used for insulation of frame and wooden houses, as well as for insulating an apartment from the inside, where the only obstacle may be the thickness of the insulation.

The external method of installing thermal insulation is safer and more effective than insulating from the inside. When installing insulation inside an apartment, the area of the room is reduced due to the thickness of the polystyrene foam. This also applies to the basement. small sizes.

The process of internal insulation is carried out strictly according to the technology of installing a thermal insulation system. The dew point shifts and condensation is possible on the walls, which forms mold; the thermal insulation layer and the supporting structures themselves are also destroyed.

If we consider the installation of insulation inside an apartment, then there is a reduction in area due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This problem also applies to the basement; if it is small, you are unlikely to like it if it becomes even smaller.

Insulation of walls from the inside with polystyrene foam

Self-insulation of a house or apartment is possible. Usually internal insulation carried out due to the impossibility of performing it outside, for example, if the room is of historical value.

Floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is also used for floor insulation without screed, directly onto foam boards:

lay a vapor barrier layer on the floors,
on top - polystyrene foam boards;
There is no need to install waterproofing; you can immediately install the floor covering.

In a garage or basement, in order to save money, a concrete floor is laid on top of the ground. And here it is important to insulate bottom part buildings are of high quality, since high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation in winter will help maintain a comfortable temperature.

Insulation of a wooden floor

When laying thermal insulation for wooden floors, preference is given to natural materials. The flooring is mounted directly on concrete screed, then the wooden floor is insulated with polystyrene foam.

All work is carried out during the construction process: first, sand or gravel is poured, then logs are installed, and polystyrene foam slabs are placed between them (in the gaps). A screed is poured on top and a wooden floor is laid.

Insulation of concrete floor

The installation technology is in many ways similar to insulating a floor under a screed, only more labor-intensive. Do not forget that when insulating a concrete floor with polystyrene foam, as a rule, the height of the room is “eaten up”.

Sometimes such deviations are allowed:

the thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm. The same value is left for the thickness of polystyrene foam;
with a flat floor surface, you can install only insulation boards and gain a few desired centimeters.

Balcony insulation

Expanded polystyrene can really insulate a balcony or loggia. Both extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam will be equally good for this.

Installation of insulation:

Cut the PPS according to the size of the balcony walls and floors on which it will be laid;
treat the walls spotwise with an adhesive solution, retreating 5-7 mm from the edges;
press polystyrene foam insulation boards against the wall of the loggia;
apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the surface of the insulation;
additionally strengthen the material with plastic dowels - “mushrooms” (6-7 pieces per 1 m²);
apply a reinforcing mesh with a cell frequency of 5 mm on top, without sinking it into the adhesive solution;
let the glue dry.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be done in several ways:

flooring;
gluing;
investing in the sheathing;
mechanical fastening.

IMPORTANT! Fastening methods can be combined.

Attic insulation

Owners of private houses are converting attic spaces into attics; buildings with gable roof. Naturally, a cold attic should be thermally insulated; for this, polystyrene foam boards are used.

Master Class:

Insulation of external walls with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene turned out to be an excellent insulation material for plastering the walls of houses, both outside and inside. But is it possible to insulate the outside of aerated concrete walls with it? And will such insulation be effective?

Features of aerated concrete walls

In the production of blocks, which contain sand, cement, and limestone, a special technology is used, which gives them good rigidity and thermal insulation qualities.

But why insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm? Worth it if you live in a cold northern area. Insulation of the outside of walls made of PPS aerated concrete is carried out as a temporary option or “economy” due to the poor permeability of the materials. These warnings also apply to the insulation of the foundation, bathhouse and basement.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

How is the insulation of wooden and concrete floors carried out, on the ground, under a screed and without a screed? We discussed how floor insulation is carried out, for example, in a garage?

Watch the video:

Regarding laminate, then this type coatings are becoming more and more popular every day due to their ease of installation. It is better to insulate the floor under the laminate, otherwise you will only be able to walk on it in slippers.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bathhouse is carried out after the construction of the building. Expanded clay, polystyrene foam and even glass bottles are often used as an insulating layer.

Installation sequence:

Half of the first floor always needs insulation, and a whole range of works aimed at insulating the floor is required. Moreover, it is advisable to carry out insulation of the floor above a cold attic from above, and thermal protection above the basement - from below.

First floor floor insulation scheme:

dismantling old floor coverings;
laying a vapor barrier layer;
PPS insulation;
laying a layer of polyethylene film;
reinforcing screed with cement mortar;
new topcoat.

The thickness of the insulation layer on the first floor should be at least 80-100 mm.

Some insulation features:

Roofs

Of course, insulating the attic roof with PPS increases the service life of the roof. In terms of its characteristics, PPS is similar to polystyrene foam, but the technology for its use for roof insulation is different.

Insulating the attic with extruded polystyrene foam involves laying rafters on top to eliminate the appearance of even the slightest gaps. Expanded polystyrene boards are manufactured specially with step-shaped joints or “tenon-to-groove” type structures.

Roofs

The technology for insulating floors is similar to insulating a roof. In this case, the bottom layer should be a vapor barrier film endowed with anti-condensation properties, and the top layer should be a waterproofing film. In case of water leakage, it is the film that will protect the insulation from waterlogging.

Expanded polystyrene boards are laid in the space between ceiling beams, while foaming the cracks.

Base

The technology for insulating the basement of a house is quite simple, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

Foundation

Complete thermal insulation of the foundation should consist of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The vertical section is PPS slabs mounted on outer walls foundation strip, the horizontal one should form a continuous belt around the perimeter of the building being constructed, as the technology provides.

The required insulation thickness is calculated using the formula. The technology also provides for insulating the soil around the foundation, which is insulated from subzero temperatures by an insulated blind area no more than a meter wide.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene from the inside

If you plan to use the loggia or balcony area exclusively for storing things, then one layer is enough to insulate the wall.

For external thermal insulation, sheets with a thickness of at least 50 mm are used.

What is better for insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam?

The difference lies in the production technology. Polystyrene foam is produced by treating polystyrene granules with dry steam; during thermal expansion, they “adhere” to each other, which forms micropores.

Expanded polystyrene is made by the “extrusion” method: polystyrene granules melt, which promotes the formation of bonds at the molecular level, thus creating a single structure.

According to physical and technical specifications there are also differences.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene:

strength;
good permeability;
high density.

If necessary inexpensive material, then it is more profitable to use foam plastic.

Insulating walls with foam plastic will help not only reduce heat loss, but also prepare the walls for decorative finishing. It is quite possible to insulate walls with polystyrene foam yourself, the main thing is to follow the technology.

Foam insulation is done on the outside of the walls. In this case, slabs of polystyrene foam, or expanded polystyrene, are used - this is the same foam plastic, made using more modern technologies. The advantages of this method include the low thermal conductivity of the insulating layer, ease of implementation, moisture resistance of the material, and good sound insulation properties.

To complete the insulating layer you will need:

Foam boards (expanded polystyrene) in quantity, equal to the area external walls minus the windows. The thickness of the slabs is determined by thermal engineering calculations; in any case, it should be such that the dew point moves into the layer of external insulation. If the thickness is non-standard, then the foam is attached to the walls in two layers, and the second layer is glued only after the glue on the first layer has completely dried.
Mineral slabs. They are placed for fire protection purposes around all windows, doorways, as well as between floors at high building heights. The thickness of the slabs must correspond to the thickness of the foam. Slabs must be selected with a high density. Their number depends on the number of windows.
Reinforcing mesh for external work.
Primer for walls. The primer consumption depends on the wall material - porous materials need to be coated in two layers.
Exterior adhesive for attaching polystyrene foam and reinforcing mesh. Sold as a dry mixture.
Perforated metal corner: to make a starting strip - a layer of insulation equal in width, as well as a smaller width to strengthen the corners.
Tool: hammer drill with a drill Ø10 mm, the length of the drill is equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 7-8 cm; construction mixer; level; stationery knife.

Technology of wall insulation with foam plastic

Before starting work, you need to plan your time so as not to leave a layer of fixed polystyrene foam not covered with plaster on the walls for more than 5-7 days. sunlight It destroys expanded polystyrene very quickly - it turns yellow, destructuring of the surface layers begins, and the insulation loses part of its thermal insulation properties.

Preparing the walls. The walls are cleaned with a brush from dust and dirt, if necessary, repaired and leveled. Wall differences should not be more than 2 cm along the length of the foam sheet. If the walls are covered with paint or plaster, remove all poorly secured areas.
Prepare the primer. If the primer is sold as a concentrate, dilute it according to the instructions on the package.
Apply the primer to the walls using a brush or roller. The primer sometimes has to be applied in several layers. You can check the quality of the dried primer like this: run your hand along the wall, and there should be no significant traces of sand left on your hand, construction dust or residues of coloring compounds.
Install the starting bar on the base of the building using a level. The starting strip is necessary to maintain the insulation layer while the glue dries. If the height of the building is small, you can do without it, but the first sheets of foam plastic from below must be secured until the glue has completely dried.

The plank is secured around the entire perimeter of the building using dowels, at least three dowels per meter of length.
Dilute the glue according to the instructions on the package; to do this, pour the dry mixture into a previously prepared clean cold water. The container size must be sufficient for mixing.
Stir the glue using construction mixer, leave to mature for 5 minutes and mix again. After this, the glue is ready for use.
Apply glue to polystyrene boards using a spatula. It is possible to distribute the glue evenly over the slab only if the walls are smooth.

For brick or block masonry, which is characterized by unevenness, it is applied in a strip along the perimeter of the slab and several splashes in the center.
The slab is placed on the starting bar and pressed tightly against the wall, making sure that there are no distortions.
Check the level of the slab in all three directions. If necessary, level by lightly tapping the slab, using your hand or a hammer through a wooden block.
Lay the slabs in a horizontal row. The next row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, forming a bandage, as when laying brick walls

During the laying process, the foam is cut to size with a knife, if necessary. It is necessary to ensure that there are no large gaps left.
A 20-centimeter layer of non-combustible insulation must be laid around window and door openings. You can use basalt mats or mineral slabs; the density of the slabs should be such that they can withstand plaster and finishing coats without deformation. If the building is high, a layer of non-combustible insulation is also laid every 2-3 floors.
Mineral slabs are attached similarly to polystyrene foam with glue, applying it over the entire surface.
After gluing, if necessary, you can glue all the cracks between the insulation and the window block, as well as the joints of the insulation and foam plastic, with glue.

The glue dries within 1-2 days. After this, you need to secure the insulation. To do this, use a hammer drill and a dowel-nail pair. There should be at least 4-5 dowels in one slab. To reduce the number of holes, it is possible to drill holes in the joints of the slabs, thereby pressing two or three adjacent slabs.
Holes in the slabs are drilled so that the dowel enters the wall by 5-6 cm, the length of the drill is calculated accordingly as the width of the insulation plus 7-8 cm.
To fasten polystyrene foam, special plastic dowels with mushrooms are used. wide hat. They do not form cold bridges, securely fix the slab and do not protrude above its surface. They are driven in with a hammer, after which a nail is driven into them.
All corners are reinforced with a perforated corner, which is attached to insulation glue.

The foam cannot be left in the sun for more than a few days, so after fixing the slabs, proceed to finishing works. The gaps between the insulation boards must be foamed. To attach the reinforcing mesh, apply a layer of glue to the surface of the wall; the area of the area is chosen so that there is time to lay and level the reinforcing mesh before the glue sets. Reinforcing mesh must be taken for external work, since the mesh is for interior work When exposed to cement-based adhesive, it deteriorates over time.
Apply the reinforcing mesh to the wall, leaving 5 cm along the edge of the mesh to form an overlap. It is more convenient to attach the mesh from top to bottom, slowly unwinding the roll.
The mesh is pressed tightly against the wall, and the glue protruding above its surface is smoothed out with a wide spatula. If necessary, you can add more glue. The mesh should not protrude above the surface of the glue, but its contours should be traceable. Next section processed in the same way, not forgetting the necessary overlap of the mesh 5 cm wide.
After the glue has dried, after 2-3 days, the surface of the wall is rubbed with sandpaper, leveling if necessary, and the finishing begins.

The final stage is finishing

Insulating walls with polystyrene foam, when done correctly, can save up to 40% of energy resources for heating a home. At the same time, the foam plastic is not subject to rotting, is resistant to fungus, and does not deform from temperature changes, which allows the house to maintain a decent appearance for decades.