Construction and maintenance of a cesspool without pumping. Do-it-yourself cesspool for a country house What is the best way to make a cesspool for a country house?

When designing a cesspool for a country toilet, you should carefully approach the issue of choosing a place for it. garden plot. First of all, measurements are carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures" (in particular, you are interested in table No. 1; further we will provide figures based on it).

cesspool should be located at a distance of at least 8 m from your own residential building and at least 10 m from neighboring ones. You need to retreat at least 20 m from the centralized water supply, and at least 5 m from the gas supply pipes. The distance from the fence with the neighboring plot should be at least 1 m, and from outbuildings and fruit trees– at least 5 m.

Before starting excavation work, a drawing of the site and neighboring buildings is drawn up. The location for the future pit is selected taking into account the above standards, after which the selected point from the diagram is marked on the territory.

In some cases (when the site is located next to an open reservoir), the placement of a cesspool should be coordinated with the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision and environmental authorities.

Also, before digging a pit, you should find out the location groundwater on the site. It is especially important to carry out this activity if you plan to install a container with natural filtration of waste into the soil. The lower part of such a well should not cross the groundwater level.

Cesspool options

There are two main options for sump design:

without bottom;
with bottom.

When constructing a cesspool with your own hands without pumping, it means that waste is absorbed through the open bottom into the soil. To assemble such a cesspool, concrete rings, old tires, metal barrels, brick, monolithic concrete or concrete blocks. In the case of a cesspool that needs to be pumped out periodically, ready-made plastic containers are used.

To select suitable option for the site, you need to understand the features and key differences between the two systems.

Sump with natural filtration

Most often, cesspools without a bottom are made of iron concrete rings. This material is durable, not afraid of aggressive environments, and is easy to install.

This system is suitable for both seasonal and permanent residence. The rings are installed on a sand and gravel bed, which filters wastewater, passing it through itself into the soil. To improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to pour solutions with anaerobic microorganisms into such cesspools.

A pit with an open bottom is placed at a distance of at least 5 m from the foundation of the building and 20 m from the water supply. The depth of the pit depends on the groundwater level, bottom part should be at least 0.5 m below the ground level.

Open-bottom cesspools must be approved by the relevant services, otherwise the owners risk receiving a fine.

Sump with bottom

Systems with a bottom are installed in areas with clay soils and low groundwater level. In this case, filtration of wastewater through the ground is impossible, and therefore a storage option is used. The size of the container must correspond to the level of water consumption in the house, but if more than 4 people permanently live, you will need to purchase special sewer systems.

To dispose of accumulated waste, you have to call a sewer truck, therefore, when placing a cesspool on a site, you should take into account the possibility of access by special vehicles.

Cesspools with a bottom require the mandatory organization of ventilation pipes that remove gases formed during the work of microorganisms during wastewater treatment.

Required materials and tools

For self-installation country toilet with cesspool odorless, you will need the following tools:

angle grinder;
shovel;
building level;
buckets;
perforator;
drill with a set of drills.

Materials you will need:

container for accumulating waste (metal barrels, bricks, concrete rings, tires);
sewer pipes, diameter 100-110 mm;
a set of pipes and couplings;
geotextiles;
sealant;
slate;
sand;
fine gravel;
cement;
waterproofing mastic.

Calculation of the cesspool

When calculating, the following standards should be taken into account:

Almost 200 liters of waste water per person per day. Thus, the monthly volume of wastewater in a family of four will be at least 20 m3 (the indicator is important when calculating the volume of a sealed container);
when constructing pits with an open bottom, it should be taken into account that filtration of wastewater in sandy soils is 15% faster than in loams;
a one-time volume of sewage removal does not exceed 10 m3, which is equal to the volume of approximately four concrete rings with a diameter of 2000 mm;
When calculating the volume of a container, you should take a safety margin of at least 10%, since it is not always possible to quickly call a sewer truck.

Marking and excavation work

When preparing a pit for a cesspool, it is necessary to observe and take into account following rules and recommendations:

The marking is carried out according to the plan for linking the cesspool to the buildings on the site.
The diameter of the pit should exceed the diameter of the concrete rings, tires or barrels by 300-400 mm, so that the walls do not interfere with installation.
The depth of the pit should exceed the height of the rings by 200-300 mm, which will be required to create a sand and gravel cushion.
If a non-filtering well made of concrete rings is installed, pour monolithic slab or ready-made slabs are laid, after which the joints between them are carefully sealed. You can put the rings in the well after they have fully gained strength. concrete base.

Instructions for constructing a cesspool

Let's consider the procedure for constructing cesspools made of various materials.

Concrete rings

The design of this structure resembles an ordinary well.

How to dig a pit for concrete rings? To a given depth (at least 0.5 m below the ground level), with a width slightly larger than the size of the ring. Depending on the type of pit, the bottom can act as a filter or be completely monolithic.

To connect the pit to the toilet, a trench is dug into which sewer pipes are laid. In the summer, the pipes will work without interference, but in order to prevent the drains from freezing in winter, the pipes are insulated.

The well is closed with a concrete lid with a hatch for pumping out sewage.

Car tires

The pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the tires by 300-400 mm. A sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is placed at the bottom. The tires are laid one on top of the other with the joints sealed with plumbing sealant. The lid is made of boards or plywood with mandatory treatment with antiseptic agents.

Monolithic concrete

The pit is made with a margin of 500 mm in width. The formwork is being prepared, inside which the reinforcing mesh is laid. Cement-sand mortar for pouring is prepared from M300 cement in a 1:2 ratio with sand.

After pouring concrete, you need to wait at least 10 days for sufficient strength to develop. The finished concrete ring is coated with waterproofing mastic. A sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. The cesspool cover with a hole for pumping can also be cast from concrete.

Metal barrel

This option is suitable for houses with no more than 2 inhabitants and for sandy soils with low groundwater levels.

In the walls metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters, holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm are made in increments of 200 mm, and they are wrapped outside in height with geotextile, securing it with wire.

The lid is hermetically secured along the diameter and a hole is cut for the inlet sewer pipe.

The pit is dug to a depth exceeding the height of the barrel by 300 mm; the bottom of the pit should be filled 200 mm with fine gravel. The side voids are also filled with gravel.

Brick

Let's look at the step-by-step organization of a brick pit:

a pit is dug to the size of the future cesspool;
a sand and gravel cushion 200 mm thick is made at the bottom of the pit;
along the perimeter of the pit, according to the size of the masonry, formwork is arranged and a monolithic concrete slab is poured;
After the foundation has gained strength, they begin laying brick walls. The easiest way is to make the well square or rectangular shape. The thickness of the wall is one brick;
the outside and inside of the walls are plastered with clay mortar;
a sewer pipe is laid in the trench connecting the pit and the toilet in the house;
the cesspool cover is made of boards or cast from concrete, providing a hole for a hatch with a diameter of 500 mm.

After installing a country toilet with a cesspool, you should consider a sewage pumping system, even if natural filtration into the soil is assumed.

When using anaerobic microorganisms, feces are processed directly inside the container, but it will not be possible to filter and process waste in a filtration well without residue. From time to time, such systems need to be completely pumped out to clean the walls and replace the drainage.

If a pit with a bottom is installed in a private house, pumping will have to be done much more often. A sewer truck is ordered as the pit is filled with sewage, since there is simply nowhere for the liquid to go. Therefore, when owners plan to install a cesspool for a toilet in a country house, they need to provide convenient access for the machine to the well, taking into account that the length of the sewer hose is usually from 10 to 20 m.

The problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved for the citizens utilities, but adherents of free-spirited country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident with his own hands can easily build a cesspool from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest container lined with boards for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After digging around the homemade treatment plant filled with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more complex in technical aspects installations with forced stimulation of wastewater movement inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature– absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the installation of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

The absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need for drainage large quantity drains, if in country house no jacuzzi, dishwashers or washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as 100% effective procedures, which means that wastewater from an absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will provide complete absence odors characteristic of wastewater, but will force owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the second next cameras Specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to a worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. You don’t need a powerful one to install a septic tank made from tires. concrete foundation, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to create a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Input locations sewer pipes in vertically installed concrete pipes needs to be sealed.

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. Attracts simplest design and the opportunity not to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners too often. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. Cheap option for internal insulation - bitumen; the outside of a home-made sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom; the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, they arrange concrete screed, and you can lay bricks either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of sewer pipes. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

Where it is not possible to install a sewer system, owners of private houses dig a cesspool. This is a depression for collecting waste in the ground, emptied from time to time by sewage disposal equipment. For ease of pumping, the depth of the cesspool should not exceed 3 meters.

The maximum depth of the cesspool is three meters

Design drain hole depends on the destination. It influences the way waste is removed and treated.

Cesspool for a country toilet

Pits with permeable bottom

For example, for a bathhouse they dig an absorption hole, the bottom of which is filled with drainage material. The same cesspools are dug for the country toilet.

Small holes with a permeable bottom are also dug for houses that do not collect more than one cubic meter of waste per day. This may be a cottage for permanent residence, which does not have a shower or bath.

The main advantage of such cesspools is the cost-effectiveness of construction and operation.

Most often they are constructed from two or three concrete rings of a meter or one and a half meter diameter installed on top of each other. The water from this cesspool goes into the ground, so it takes a long time for the container to fill with solid waste.

Some people replace the rings with old ones car tires. The building is not very environmentally friendly.

But if you maintain the permissible distances, including in relation to the groundwater level, and avoid overflowing, SanPiN standards will not be violated.

Tire rings for cesspool

The permeable bottom of the pit with sealed walls does not allow sewer water absorb into the soil above a depth of three meters.

But if only wastewater from the bathhouse is drained into the cesspool, it may have permeable walls. The liquid seeps into the ground almost from the neck.

This type of well is called a filter well; it is suitable for a home in which waste from the bathroom and toilet is collected in different containers.

Clay is used for the construction of filter tanks. solid brick, laid with a gap, or perforated concrete wall rings.

Pit for a bath with permeable brick walls

The depth of the pit can exceed three meters, since there is no solid content in it, and it is not pumped out.

Sealed containers

To prevent untreated sewage waste from being absorbed into the ground, it is more correct and environmentally friendly to build cesspools with a sealed bottom, if this is not for a country house.

Example of a monolithic pit

Such pits are built similarly to permeable ones. But the bottom of them is not filled with crushed stone, but concreted. A hole under a yard toilet or a house with a built-in toilet is dug in a different shape.

It has two depth levels connected by a sloping bottom. This is necessary for ease of pumping, so that the solid contents collect in the deeper part of the pit under the neck.

Drawing of a sealed pit for a toilet in the country

The width of the cesspool reaches 2.5-3 meters, so there is no need to deepen it. The soil does not absorb runoff.

If the cesspool was dug not under the toilet, but at some distance from it, the pit can be cylindrical or rectangular. With a meter diameter, only 3 m 3 of drains will fit in it. Due to the sealed bottom, it will fill quickly.

Diagram of the pit device residential building

What is an overflow and why is it needed?

To increase the volume of the storage tank, it is expanded horizontally and the size of the cesspool is increased.

For example, instead of a meter diameter ring, they take a 1.5 or 2 meter ring and build rectangular container made of brick, monolith 2x2 or 2x3 m, or put factory model with several sections.

Sump with two additional containers

Whether additional containers are needed is determined by calculation. Need to multiply daily norm water consumption of one person (according to standards this is 0.5 m 3 per adult and 0.25 m 3 per child) per number of family members. This results in the required volume of the hole.

Size calculations show that a family of 4 fills a sealed tank in three to four days. Therefore, at least one container with a permeable bottom will still be needed.

In the first, the sewage will settle, the fecal matter will sink to the bottom, and the water will overflow into the adjacent reservoir.

If there is an overflow, a sump of 3-4 m3 is enough for 4 people

The volume of the pit is increased or additional containers are added to it in order to pump out wastewater as little as possible.

Separation of water from solid masses sometimes allows you to do without sewage disposal for several years. And even less often, if you put drugs for biological treatment.

What are the walls of the cesspool made of?

Let's consider the materials used for autonomous sewerage.

Concrete

According to the standard, heavy concrete with the following characteristics is used to fill the drainage pit:

density – 2200 kg/m3;
compressive strength – class B15;
frost resistance – F50 (at least 50 freeze-thaw cycles);
moisture resistance – minimum W6.

To give concrete the necessary properties, including resistance to aggressive environments, additives and plasticizers are added to its composition. For primary anti-corrosion protection, the surface is treated with water-repellent mixtures.

Among lightweight concretes, only expanded clay concrete has the required density. Aerated concrete is cellular and is not suitable for structures buried in the ground.

Concreting the bottom of the pit

When using monolithic concrete formwork from boards or flat slate. If the pit is sealed, first fill the bottom and reinforce it with steel mesh. Then the walls and ceiling are made.

With a size of 2x2 m and the same depth, the volume of the pit will be 8 m2. Construction will take approximately 0.5 tons of crushed stone and sand and 600 pieces of one-and-a-half-size bricks. Used bricks are most often used.

Living in a city apartment is good because no problems usually arise with the discharge of wastewater. In this regard, private houses lag behind, since they do not have a central drainage system, and the only way to ensure comfortable accommodation- this is the arrangement of a cesspool into which waste products would be dumped.

Without a cesspool, wastewater discharged into nearby areas will quickly pollute the soil and can harm not only nature, but also people.

Classification of cesspools

There are several design options for a cesspool, so it’s worth understanding them first.

A simple pit is a structure without a bottom in which liquid is absorbed by the earth. This option is the most popular, because pumping in this case is carried out quite rarely. But with increased water consumption (over 1 m³ per day), the earthen “filter” simply will not cope. Moreover, it is not environmentally safe, especially if toilet waste is discharged into it. Of course, you can fill it up from time to time, but this will reduce the usable volume, and the characteristic sewer smell will still be present.
The sealed pit requires periodic cleaning, but is absolutely safe for environment. Arranging a sealed structure is much more complicated than the one described above, and the costs are higher, but the numerous advantages completely justify it all.
- a modern analogue of a cesspool. Its bottom is lined with gravel, stones or broken bricks, which allows mechanical cleaning water (read: the soil is not polluted). Moreover, filling the pit occurs quite slowly.

Now let's find out how to make a cesspool correctly.

Construction of a brick cesspool

Before you begin construction, determine a suitable location and calculate the required dimensions of the structure.

Stage one. Selecting a location

Construction of a cesspool on suburban area regulated by SNiP. The location of the pit, as well as the distance to certain buildings, are clearly regulated sanitary standards. When planning, these requirements must be taken into account.

The distance between the pit and the fence must exceed 1 m.
The distance to the premises in which people are planned to live must be at least 12 m.
If you plan to create a simple hole, that is, without a bottom, then the distance from it to the nearest well or borehole should exceed 30 m.

Based on these requirements, select the optimal location, and then begin calculating the dimensions.

Stage two. Dimensions

There are a number of parameters that need to be taken into account when calculating the dimensions of the future structure.

First of all, the dimensions depend on the type of rocks that occur in a particular area. And if the soil consists predominantly of moisture-permeable rock (for example, marl), then the volume of the structure should be 40% of the waste that is produced during the month. And if these are rocks that do not permeate moisture well (for example, clay), then the volume should be equal to the monthly norm + a small reserve.
This also includes the number of permanent residents of the house. On average, one person produces 180 liters of wastewater per day. And if the family consists of, say, 3 people, then the monthly volume of wastewater will be 12 m³.
According to SNiP, the distance to the surface must be at least 1 m. If this condition is not met, uncleanliness may go beyond the structure, and unpleasant odors will certainly appear.
The depth should be a maximum of 3 m. This is the optimal depth, because sooner or later you will have to resort to using vacuum cleaners for cleaning. And if the pit is sealed, then such cleaning will need to be carried out several times a month.

Stage three. Preparing the necessary equipment

The work will require:

bayonet and shovel shovels;
trowel, container for mixing cement mortar;
roulette;
cord with small wooden pegs;
building level;
ladder.

Stage four. Digging a pit

You can handle the construction of a cesspool on your own, without resorting to the help of a construction team with special equipment. This will allow you to save significantly. But remember: you will have to manually remove about 20 m³ of soil.

Note! If possible, the hole should be dug at the stage of digging a pit for the foundation of the house. After this, only a small part of the work will remain.

Mark the perimeter of the future structure. Often the width of the pit is 1 m and the depth is 1.5 m. The length depends on the volume of wastewater. You can distribute the fertile layer of soil around the site, the rest will have to be removed. Leave only 1.5 m³ to fill the floor.

The excavation is almost complete

At the same stage, you should dig a trench into which the sewer pipe will be laid.

Stage five. Base

If you are planning to build a sealed sewage pit, then place a “cushion” of sand 15 cm thick at the bottom of the pit. Lay a layer of concrete of the same thickness on top of the sand, then pierce the solution sharp object to remove air bubbles. Then all that remains is to lay a 4-centimeter cement-sand screed on top of the concrete.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Wait until the base is completely dry, then lay a sewer pipe to remove sewage.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Stage six. Wall masonry

Let’s say right away that you don’t have to try too hard on the quality of the masonry, since no one will see it anyway. Do it in ¼ or ½ brick, in checkerboard pattern, use cement-sand mortar. Plaster the masonry on both sides with the same solution - this will extend the basic service life of the structure. Bandage the corners.

Having finished with the masonry, insulate the walls with bitumen mastic.

Stage seven. Overlap

To install the ceiling, follow these steps:

Step 1. First, dig in about 20cm of soil on each side to provide additional support for the deck slab.

Step 2. Build the formwork. It is advisable to use corrugated sheeting for this so that the ceiling is as rigid as possible. Also make formwork around the hatch and the hole for the ventilation pipe.

Step 3. Lay the reinforcing rods, maintaining a distance of approximately 10-15 cm. Bandage the intersecting rods using steel wire.

Step 4. Fill the ceiling with concrete mortar and level it.

Spread the concrete so that it completely fills the reinforcing mesh. Fill the solution until required thickness, wait until it hardens. This often takes a minimum of 28 days.

Note! On top of the ceiling, you can lay a layer of waterproofing material - for example, roofing felt or PE film.

Stage eight. Backfill

As soon as the concrete gains strength, begin filling the cesspool. It is advisable to use for this clay soil to create additional protection groundwater from drains. You can lay thermal insulation material (for example, sheet polystyrene foam) on the ceiling, and fill the soil on top. Finally, install the ventilation pipe.

Note! It is advisable to construct a double hatch - this will prevent the spread unpleasant odor, especially in warm time year. Install the first cover at ground level, the second at the level of the ceiling slab. You can fill the space between the covers with slag or expanded clay.

made of concrete rings

There is another option - it costs more, but the finished design will look more organic. Brick pits are often rectangular or square, but the use of reinforced concrete rings allows you to achieve a perfectly round shape. This will prevent excessive load on the walls and, as a result, their destruction. The only drawback of this option is that the work may require special equipment, because concrete cylinders weigh a lot.

Stage one. Selection of rings

Today, concrete rings are produced in several modifications, differing from each other in diameter (it varies between 70-250 cm). For a cesspool, products with a diameter of 1 m and the same height are most suitable. For an average house you will need five rings, the total usable volume of which will be 5 m³. If according to calculations the volume should be large, then take other reinforced concrete rings or buy products with a larger diameter.

Dimensions (inner diameter × outer diameter × height), mm	Volume, m3	Weight, kg
700×800×290	0,05	130
700×840×590	0,10	250
700×840×890	0,15	380
1000×1160×290	0,08	200
1000×1160×590	0,160	400
1000×1160×890	0,24	600
1500×1680×290	0,13	290
1500×1680×590	0,27	660
1500×1680×890	0,40	1000
2000×2200×590	0,39	980
2000×2200×890	0,59	1480

Such rings are classified according to design features into two large groups:

flat;
with a lock.

In the first case, the edges of the products are ordinary, flat, and in the second they are equipped with locking connections"groove-ridge". Locking rings are very convenient because they not only provide ease of installation, but also reliably seal the entire pit.

Note! In the manufacture of reinforced concrete rings, a minimum of “five hundredth” cement and a metal reinforcing frame are used. There are also products with a lid and a bottom, which greatly facilitates construction.

Stage two. Construction

Step 1. First, dig a pit. It is important that its dimensions are approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. The depth of the hole should exceed the total height of all rings by about 25-30 cm.

Step 2. Level and compact the bottom of the hole, then fill it with a 2-centimeter layer of coarse sand. Pour water over the sand and compact it. This way you will create a kind of “cushion” on which further installation will be carried out.

Step 3. Further events will develop according to one of two possible scenarios:

The ring with the bottom is installed first;
regular rings are installed.

In the first case, you will get rid of the labor-intensive procedure of pouring the base; This is the simplest option, so it is recommended to use it. But if for one reason or another it was not possible to purchase a ring with a bottom, then you will have to fill the bottom with concrete.

To do this, lay reinforcing rods in the form of a lattice at the bottom of the pit, and then tie them together with steel wire.

Note! Raise the reinforcing mesh above the surface so that it (the mesh) is entirely in the body of the concrete base. Use pieces of bricks for this.

Then start preparing the solution. To do this, mix cement, water, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:0.5:2:3. Use at least “four hundred” cement, and if the grade is lower, then reduce the volume of fillers. You can use a concrete mixer for mixing, or you can do the work manually using a shovel. But remember: the solution must be prepared in such a volume that the bottom of the hole is filled in one go, without subsequent mixing.

Pour concrete and spread it over the entire surface. Poke it with a sharp object to remove air bubbles.

Stage three. Installation of rings

You cannot lower the rings into the hole by hand, because they weigh quite a lot. To do this you will need a truck crane. Each ring has four fastening elements made in the form of ears (the products are lifted using them). To make such ears, a wire rod is used, the diameter of which is at least 0.6 cm.

Note! The rings should be lifted simultaneously by all the ears, and the cables should be evenly tensioned. The entire procedure must be performed carefully and slowly.

Once the first ring is down, level it and level it using a level. After that you can omit the rest. Seal the joints between the rings with cement-based sealant, and treat all walls of the structure - external and internal - with bitumen mastic.

Finally, the lid is installed. When the truck crane lifts and places the cover in place, seal the joints between it and the last cylinder. After this, fill in the voids between the walls of the structure and the walls of the pit.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this. Of course, you will have to perform labor-intensive excavation work and pay for the rental of special equipment, but good sewerage in a private home it is simply necessary, so all costs are completely justified.

Video - How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Reinforced concrete rings or bricks – what to choose?

Each of the options is quite simple to implement, but both concrete rings and brickwork have their own advantages.

The strength and practicality of a cesspool made of reinforced concrete rings is noticeably higher.
A brick pit less often needs sewage cleaning.
The rings can withstand greater loads than brickwork, albeit done “chess-style”.

As a result, we note that the construction of a cesspool on a site requires substantial investment, at least if we are talking about a really good design, for the manufacture of which they are used quality materials. You should not skimp on materials that will come into contact with moisture (do not use cinder blocks or sand-lime brick), because everyone knows that a miser pays more than once. Act carefully, ask for help from friends and acquaintances if necessary, do not rush - and the sewage pit will serve you for many years.

Table. Water consumption for a private home. Selecting the volume of the cesspool

Water consumers: individual or block residential buildings	Specific average daily (per year) domestic and drinking water consumption in populated areas per inhabitant, l/day
with running water and sewerage without baths	120
with water supply and sewerage without baths, with gas supply	150
with water supply, sewerage and bathtubs with water heaters running on solid fuel	180
with running water, sewerage and bathroom with gas or electric boilers	190
with water supply, sewerage, with high-speed gas heaters (columns) and several baths	250

Good luck with your work!

Construction of a storage septic tank made of concrete rings

A cesspool is a special depression in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drainage pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The construction of a cesspool begins with choosing a suitable location. There are three key rules that are used to choose the optimal location:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
from the pit itself to the fence site the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
the distance to groundwater should be taken into account; it should be over 30 meters.

After this, they begin to calculate optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

calculate the number of residents, as well as average rate water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), the monthly value of wastewater volume is calculated;
taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily permeate liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
it should be remembered that the soil layer must be at least 1 meter;
the optimal depth is about 3 meters.

Materials

Nowadays the most widely used types of materials used in constructing a cesspool are:

bricks;
reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do ;
tractor;
special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymer materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the diagram of a cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from falling apart, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. along the entire perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the ground itself and outer wall pits, there is a layer of clay called « clay castle» .

A prerequisite is the presence vent, equipped with a pipe for removing gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch, which will provide access to the pit for regular maintenance.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's consider the 3 most simple options pit constructions.

Made of brick

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit with brick lining:

to begin with, use thread and stakes to mark the selected area - on average, the dimensions of the hole are 1 by 1.5 meters;
to fill the hole at the end of the work, you will need about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil, the rest of the soil extracted during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
if you plan to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
at the bottom of the dug pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
With a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
after the concrete pad has hardened, lay a sewer pipe (if provided);
after that, start laying facing walls placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using sand-cement mortar;
to increase the service life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
upon completion of the cladding work, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
make depressions in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
use corrugated sheeting to build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
strengthen the ceiling by using rods and reinforcement fastened together with wire;
evenly fill the formwork with concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
Carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

dig a pit, maintaining as round a shape as possible cross section;
mark the areas where the pit will be located;
fill the bottom with a layer concrete mortar;
build metal frame with the help of reinforcement rods, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
after the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the rings;
the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with concrete solution;
the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
After installing all the rings, they should be covered with a concrete cover, and the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using plastic containers:

dig a pit, taking into account that in this case it will be significantly larger in size than in the two previous cases;
make the bottom as smooth as possible;
pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom and compact it well;
carefully lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
Fill in a small volume of water to see how the tank compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, the tank is not installed correctly.
completely fill the pit with soil.

Necessary tool

The main tool for personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and for the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and rope for pulling out soil. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove soil from the pit. It is necessary to have a tape measure or other measuring device on hand. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that you will have to make a solution from cement, if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, you should allocate a separate container for preparing the required volume of solution.

Installation highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations taking into account specific needs. Then comes the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings It should be taken into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure when dropped. The option with bricks and a tank can be installed manually. It should also be taken into account that to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be compacted with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes that will carry waste water, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

incorrect execution preliminary calculations by volume and location;
insufficient pit depth;
weak strengthening of the pit walls resulting in collapse
walls;
the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

Do you want to apply modern methods for cleaning the toilet in the country? In you will learn how to choose bacteria for the toilet.

The choice of sewer pipes is very important question. Tips and recommendations can be found at the link.