Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if you install skylights. Almost all new country houses They were originally built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remodeled by compassionate owners, insulated, heated and furnished. To keep the attic warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and the materials last a long time, you need to understand the very essence of insulation technology attic floor and understand the processes occurring in it. It is not difficult to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything right, then thermal insulation material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet or rot, and as a result, there will be no need for immediate major repairs.

Why is attic roof insulation necessary?

The attic is a special room, its walls are almost tightly drawn to the surface of the roof and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10 - 15 cm. That is why the attic quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage unit for solar heat in the summer, and most of the heat escapes through it in the winter. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises, spreads under the roof arch and safely evaporates, since the roofing material has high thermal conductivity. The snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in the summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with this problem.

In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Loose-fill thermal insulation materials on the attic floor plus air trapped in the attic perfectly hold back the heat coming from the heated living space. As a result, even in the harshest winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0°C - -2°C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be adjusted by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating structural elements roofs.

What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room by choosing the right material, its thickness, installation location and following the technology. For example, if you use insulation of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to re-cover the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic space from the roof, and proper ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensation from the under-roof space. But first things first.

Materials for insulating an attic roof

Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating an attic roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the insulation “pie” will be and the number of layers in it. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be used, certain requirements are imposed on it:

Low thermal conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K.
Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material must be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed to prevent it from getting wet.
The low weight of the insulation is extremely important so as not to overload the roof structure. The weight of a material can be determined by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45 - 50 kg/m3, and fiberglass insulation with a density of 14 kg/m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg/m2) are not suitable.
Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn and does not support combustion.
Ability to keep in shape. Since the place where the insulation is laid is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, over time the light roll material based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
Resistant to severe frosts, temperature changes and the ability to withstand multiple defrost/freeze cycles.
Durability.

The thickness of the attic insulation is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a special online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the insulation of the walls, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you select “by eye”, then in most cases a 250 mm layer of mineral wool is sufficient.

Let's consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate attic roofs.

Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating an attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn or support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. Slab positions of basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any wool, so waterproofing is required on the roof side and vapor barrier on the living room side, since mineral wool also absorbs steam well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and requires its complete replacement. In addition, over time it cakes and crumbles and does not withstand mechanical loads well.

However, mineral wool remains one of the most the best materials for insulating an attic roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and compliance the right technology will help mitigate its shortcomings. For different regions The thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for the central part of the Russian Federation is 150 mm; in colder regions, the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.

Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam- an extremely popular material on the market, which is used to insulate everything, both what is possible and what is not. Against the backdrop of seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape - foam plastic has significant drawbacks. Firstly, different brands of expanded polystyrene have different degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use flammable foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward; if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be impossible to survive in it. Secondly, working with polystyrene foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles when cut and installed, leaving gaps between the rafters that have to be sealed with all sorts of in cunning ways. Thirdly, foam plastic begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the disadvantages, insulating the attic roof with polystyrene foam is not worth it. This material can only be used in areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.

Extruded polystyrene foam- an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, and holds its shape perfectly. And what is important is that a very small layer of it is required, from 50 to 100 mm.

Polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown in using a special installation, leaving not the slightest cracks or gaps. This is an undeniable plus, especially since with such spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and holds its shape perfectly. But it has another drawback - low vapor permeability, it practically does not “breathe” at all. This means that the attic will always be unpleasantly humid if forced ventilation is not installed.

Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate mansard roof. It also blows into all the cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, “breathes” and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or random particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.

When choosing insulation for an attic roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also design features its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the insulation “pie” and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, the rafters become practically inaccessible for inspection. So you need to treat everything wisely.

How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside

The most common way to insulate an attic is from the inside, if space allows or there are no other contraindications. For this purpose, insulation materials based on mineral wool, glass wool and, less commonly, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Even less often they blow out polyurethane foam or ecowool.

Scheme for insulating an attic roof from the inside

Compliance with the correct “pie” of insulation of the attic roof is the key to the durability of the materials and the comfort of living in the attic room.

Pie of insulation of the attic roof (from the inside out):

Finishing material.
Vapor barrier membrane.
Insulation - mineral wool or glass wool.
A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not let moisture in.
Ventilation gap with sheathing.
Roofing material.

Vapor barrier film must be used if cotton wool materials are used as insulation. This way, mineral wool can be protected from damp vapors in the living room. If polyurethane foam or ecowool is used instead of mineral wool, then a vapor barrier is not needed.

Waterproofing needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect wooden elements roof structures. As waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes that can release steam outside and prevent moisture from entering. Between the waterproofing film and roofing material a ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm thick is required, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will escape through it.

Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof

It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside during the construction stage of the house. Then all stages of work will be completed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, we draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope right up to the ceiling, then it is necessary to insulate the entire roof slope. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. below between the slope and interior decoration there will be free space, then the insulation will have to be strictly according to the drawn diagram, leaving free space for ventilation. But then in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling.

Let's consider the option of insulating the entire roof slope:

Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread loosely so that it does not tear when frost sets in. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
We nail a sheathing of wooden blocks on top. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We secure the sheathing with corrosion-resistant screws. To avoid damaging the film again, we make holes in the bars in advance.

Important! For greater reliability, you can do two ventilation gap: between insulation and waterproofing, between waterproofing and roofing. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.

We lay roofing material on the sheathing - tiles, corrugated sheets, slate, metal tiles. Here it is for installation soft roof First, you need to nail sheets of chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the sheathing, which will serve as the basis for fastening.

The work is moving inside the attic space. Unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let her lie down and straighten out. Cut into required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters so that the canvases are held “at odds”.

We push the insulation sheets into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The thickness of the rafters should be 200 - 250 mm.

Important! It is convenient to select the pitch between the rafters according to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold in a width of 1200 mm. The step can be 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.

We lay a vapor barrier material on top of the insulation with an overlap of 10 cm, and seal the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with brackets or using lathing.
We fill the lath with 25 mm thick slats.
We attach the finishing material to the slats.

This completes the insulation. For more clear example You can watch a video of insulating an attic roof.

If you are planning to insulate an attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. Waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping it around the rafters and leading into the space between them. But in this case, wooden rafters are left unprotected in case of leaks.

Laying insulation under the rafters of an attic roof

A slightly less common method of insulation is used when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that this way you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. In this way, a tight fit of the thermal insulation material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. Very good decision, if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.

Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:

We nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters from the inside.
We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that with their U-shaped holes they look at each other.

We put insulation into the hangers. We cut the canvas with a slight overlap to prevent the appearance of cracks. The result should be a continuous sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are located.
We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and secure it with staples.
We stuff the sheathing for finishing material. For fastening, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to pierce the insulation and reach the rafters.

In principle, this method can be combined with laying insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will cover everything, including cold bridges.

How to insulate an attic roof from the outside

It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only at the construction stage or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also many design solutions suggest the use of rafters as decorative elements situation.

External attic roof insulation technology

Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, so it does not require vapor barrier. The “pie” of Penoplex insulation will look like this:

Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
Waterproofing membrane.
Ventilation gap with sheathing.
Roofing material.

The undeniable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.

Laying insulation on the rafters of an attic roof

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam over the rafters allows you to create a continuous thermal insulation layer without cold bridges.

To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, we nail a board at the very bottom to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
We spread the insulation boards in checkerboard pattern. You need to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom cap.
We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, seal the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
We fill the sheathing with bars at least 40 mm thick.
We install roofing material.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire façade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if insulation is carried out using a system curtain façade, then you can use mineral wool with vapor barrier and waterproofing films. And if it is planned wet facade, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Do not forget that adherence to technology is the key to success.

Video - how to insulate an attic roof

To make the attic a living space suitable for people, it is important to do two things: insulate it and insulate it. It is noteworthy that by choosing the right insulation, you can kill two birds with one stone. The whole point is that quality materials not only have a low thermal conductivity, but also have the property of absorbing sound. For winter accommodation in the attic, insulation is the only option to retain heat, which will quickly leave the roof. You can either hire specialists for this work or do it yourself.

Whichever option you choose, your participation is still required. First, you must choose quality insulation. Secondly, knowing how to insulate an attic roof from the inside, you will be able to control your workers. That's why this article will be useful for everyone.

Roofing pie device

In order for the insulated floor to function correctly, you need to make the right roofing pie. This is the only way to achieve high-quality insulation, and the insulation itself will last for many years. If you don’t yet know what goes into a roofing pie, these are the following layers:

Roofing material.
Lathing.
Ventilation duct.
Waterproofing layer.
Insulation layer.
Vapor barrier layer.
Attic cladding.

If your attic is insulated this way, then no cold weather will be scary. In addition, thanks to the waterproofing layer, even if the roof leaks, the insulation will not be wet. And the vapor barrier will serve as a barrier to warm air masses (steam), so the insulation will not get wet from condensation. All this will extend the life of both the roof and the insulation itself.

To begin with, we note that the attic roof does not have the usual cube shape. Its surfaces are inclined. Therefore, if we talk about insulating the attic from the inside with our own hands, then the material used should hold its shape well, not bend or deform under its own weight. Otherwise, insulation will not succeed.

Another important point is that the slabs or roll of insulation will be placed in the space between the rafters. It turns out that there is a certain load on the roof structure. If the load is heavy, this is fraught with bad consequences. That is why the material for attic insulation should have a low specific gravity.

To make it convenient for you to lay the insulation between the rafters, before installing the roof, calculate the pitch of their fastening so that it is the same as the width of the insulation. Then you will not need to cut the material to a certain width, performing unnecessary steps.

To avoid the formation of cold bridges, the insulation must fit tightly both to each other and to the rafters. After all, heat will escape through all the cracks, and the insulation will not be as effective. If we are talking about polystyrene foam, then the joints can be sealed polyurethane foam, and the insulation itself is laid in two layers in a checkerboard pattern. So, the sheets block the cold bridges.

Pay attention! The attic is not only a roof slope, but also two gables and a valley. If they are not insulated, or done poorly, then all efforts will be in vain.

Requirements for insulation

Based on all the above criteria, we can draw a certain conclusion about the insulation for the attic roof. It must meet certain requirements:

low heat conductivity;
density and ability to hold shape;
low specific gravity;
noise absorption;
fire resistance and moisture resistance;
environmental cleanliness;
durability.

These are the parameters that attic insulation should have. This is very important, because otherwise, insulation can be ineffective and dangerous for humans. What material is suitable for these purposes? How to insulate an attic?

What to choose

If you do not understand insulation materials, then we will try to help you. Some of them may already be familiar to you, while others you have not heard of. We will consider the most suitable materials for insulation with a mansard roof, their features, pros and cons.

This is a list of the most best options for insulating the attic from the inside. They are time-tested, reliable and environmentally friendly. It’s not scary to insulate your home with them. And now, we smoothly move from theory to practice.

We insulate the attic from the inside with our own hands

So, if you do not want to involve a team of specialists who will have to pay handsomely, then you can do all the work yourself. It's not as difficult as it might seem. Let's look at attic insulation using mineral wool as an example, since this is one of the popular options. You need to calculate the amount of insulation in advance using a special online calculator. Then purchase the material.

First, you need to prepare all the tools and materials for the job. This list includes:

The insulation itself.
Hammer.
Mallet, chisel and chisel.
Hydro- and vapor barrier film.
Wooden slats and fasteners (nails, screws).
Screwdriver.
Axe, plane and sherhebel for wood.

Pay attention! Take care of your protection too. Bring gloves, a suit and a mask, as the mineral wool can create dust.

To insulate an attic roof from the inside, the first step is to perform several steps from the outside. We talked about the fact that the roof should be well waterproofed. Therefore, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the rafters. Start working from the bottom and work your way up. Lay the film overlapping by 15 cm, and seal the joints with special tape. The film can be fixed to the rafters in two ways: with a stapler or slats. The choice is yours. It is important that the material is not too stretched, but also does not hang down. At 1 m, 2 cm of overhang is allowed.

Now we move inside the attic, where the bulk of the work will be done. Everything is simple here: the mineral wool needs to be cut based on the pitch of the rafters, and laid in the space between them. To ensure that the material fits tightly to the wood, make its width 5 cm larger. Then there will be no seams or cold bridges left. This will make the insulation high-quality, without heat loss. Your task is to lay mineral wool in the entire space between the rafters, thereby insulating the roof. Also, don't forget about gables and valleys. To prevent the material from falling out of the rafters, it can be secured with a fishing line stretched along the edge of the rafters.

All that remains is to perform a vapor barrier on the insulation. The vapor barrier material itself is made in the form of a film, which must be secured to the rafters from the inside. So, it will cover the insulation. And to prevent steam from penetrating through the joints of the film, you need to make an overlap of 10 cm. Only then will the material be completely protected both from the inside and outside of the attic.

That's all. All that remains is to sheathe the attic from the inside, and it is ready. Thanks to this insulation, useful space is not lost, since the insulation layer is located at the level of the rafters. This principle is used for insulation with roll and slab materials.

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The problem of energy saving is always relevant for homeowners, so they try their best available means reduce heat loss, which is known to occur as a result of poor thermal insulation of the roof, walls and basement. Houses built a long time ago usually have an attic, which is used as a place to store old and unnecessary things. In recently erected buildings, owners now prefer to equip an attic roof (see photo), the premises of which can be used not only for household needs, but also as an additional living room. It is advisable to figure out how to insulate an attic roof from the inside without making common mistakes.

If you can do the insulation of an attic roof from the inside of the house with your own hands, then work on the outside of the building should be entrusted to specialists.

Choice of insulation

The solution to the question of how and what is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the design of the roof of the building and the features weather conditions the area in which it is located. You can familiarize yourself with the basic requirements and standards regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones in SNiP 02/23/2003.

Today domestic construction market offers a huge selection of materials with different characteristics and costs for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult for a person who has never performed such work before to make a choice, but it is possible if you first study the information with your own hands or consult with professionals or friends who are competent in this matter.

Foam plastic. Many homeowners are attracted to insulation such as polystyrene foam because of its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly damp. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, cracks appear between them and the foam, through which the cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to live in this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam. No less popular insulation than polystyrene foam and its characteristics are very similar to it. The only difference is the technology, according to which it is made from the inside with penoplex. Expanded polystyrene boards laid on the rafters from above so that there are no gaps. The material in the form of slabs is produced with stepped joints or according to the “tenon and groove” type of construction. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and the total cost of the work depends on the size of the room.

Glass wool.

The technology according to which you can insulate an attic roof yourself using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself is different in structure:

glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, so it is stronger, more elastic and has better sound insulation characteristics;
the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate an attic with our own hands, you can use several thermal insulation materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the gaps between the rafters, it is advisable to use mineral wool, and lay polystyrene foam on top of the rafter structure under the roof.

This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

Since ecowool consists of 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is an environmentally friendly material;
in terms of thermal insulation parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
the use of ecowool allows you to qualitatively fill all structural elements, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
The insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of fungus and mold on wooden parts;
ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
does not lose its original volume during operation.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed insulation. To insulate an attic with polyurethane foam you need special equipment(portable installations). Weighing 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 “squares” of area. No additional one is needed. The coating fills existing voids and cracks to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the attic insulation is completed with polyurethane foam, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam is rarely used for thermal insulation is its high cost.

Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproofing properties. Foamed polyethylene is coated with high-quality aluminum on one or both sides.

Insulating the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

environmental cleanliness;
low thermal conductivity;
The closed system of polyethylene foam air bubbles prevents steam penetration.

Insulation of attic walls

Now the attic is initially planned when developing a house project, so its shape depends on the roof structure, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, in individual buildings, a gable roof is created, since it allows maximum use of the attic area. Often interior walls They don’t do it for a room on the roof at all. When gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then the internal walls of the attic are built to an additional height of 1-1.2 meters. In this case, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.

Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used to insulate the roof:

Insulating the attic floor

To insulate the floor, various heat insulators are used. Materials are placed between the joists or on the subfloor. To insulate the flooring with fiberboard slabs, first two layers of roofing felt are laid, and then fiberboards are laid in two rows. A finished floor is laid on top.

Sometimes they use a long-known method - insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 cm layer on roofing material in the spaces between the lags. To prevent mice from settling in the insulating layer, sawdust should be mixed with lime. It’s bad that such insulation is a flammable material.

Insulating the attic ceiling

When using ecowool on false ceiling a sheathing is specially installed, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (more details: " "). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the installed roof from the inside, and the false ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulating the attic gable from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam are used. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using penoplex or polyurethane foam.

The attic above the bathhouse is a great way to have additional comfortable premises with relatively little loss of time and money. But the comfort of the premises can be achieved only under one condition - all construction operations will be carried out in strict accordance with existing requirements building codes and rules.

Of course, one must take into account how architectural features buildings and the climatic zone of residence. Any heating costs money, we will tell you how not to throw it away, what conditions to follow in order to be guaranteed to get the desired effect.

You need to start, as always, from the very beginning. The effectiveness of insulation largely depends on the chosen material; you need to understand their features and characteristics, only such knowledge will help optimal choice building materials in each specific case.

Today, so many different thermal insulation materials are produced that it is very difficult for some consumers to understand. Manufacturers often take advantage of this, and with the help of not entirely honest advertising, they artificially inflate the prices of their products. Let's look at some of the most striking examples.

It sounds tempting, not everyone understands, but attractive, that’s what manufacturers call their products. The phrase “environmentally friendly” is always added to these words, and the consumer is ready to pay a lot of money. At the same time, the companies “modestly” keep silent about the fact that basalt volcanic rocks consist of 60-80% ordinary glass, and the rest is impurities that are removed during production.

In principle, their products are ordinary, long-known glass wool. Due to the use of “free” glass, the cost of mineral wool should be much less than the cost of glass wool. But advertising does its job; due to its action, the price increases significantly.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Glass wool

Previously, it was difficult to work with glass wool; it caused quite unpleasant irritations on the skin. Outdated technologies did not allow making fibers very thin. The thick glass fibers were strong enough to damage the upper layers of the skin. Now technologies make it possible to reduce the diameter of glass fibers to 6 microns; to the touch such products are no different from cotton wool.

But the buyer reacts negatively to the word “glass wool”; manufacturers do not use it today. A striking example of expensive ordinary glass wool is the Izover brand. Confused word and the absence of “glass” allows manufacturers to increase the price of their ordinary glass products.

What do we recommend? For attic insulation, mineral or glass wool is an excellent material in all respects, but you should not buy fashionable, well-promoted brands. Their performance indicators do not quite meet high price. There is an opportunity to buy glass wool - take it, the quality is no worse than the most fashionable names, and the cost is thirty percent cheaper. Any mineral wool is safe for health, unlike other modern thermal insulation materials.

Another tip on mineral wool. It can be rolled or pressed.

Insulating an attic with rolled mineral wool will cost approximately one and a half times less than with pressed wool. The thermal conductivity of both options differs by no more than twenty percent. Think before you start insulating the attic in the bathhouse.

Glass wool prices

glass wool

A few words about polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and ecowool

These are the so-called “budget” thermal insulation materials, the average price is one and a half to two times lower than that of mineral wool. The main common disadvantage is that they release into the air chemical compounds. The quantity of these compounds is regulated by sanitary authorities, but they are necessarily present in one percentage or another.

Very technologically advanced, easy to cut, not afraid of moisture. But he is afraid of rodents; after a few years they can “grind” the foam sheets into powder, it will crumble and, as a result, the quality of thermal insulation will decrease.

The “sibling” of polystyrene foam, universally used, has slightly increased physical strength.

Polyurethane foam

The most “harmful” insulation, it is not recommended for use in residential premises. The main advantage is that it is applied in liquid form to any complex surface. After cooling it forms an impermeable coating.

Also sprayable, can be used for insulation in hard to reach places finished buildings. It is made from wood processing waste and waste paper, and is impregnated with antiseptics to slow down the decay process. Moreover, here “eco” is understood only by advertising agents of production companies.

We hope that this knowledge will allow you to consciously select materials for attic insulation; we are sure that additional knowledge has never hurt anyone. Now we can talk about the technology for performing work on insulating the attic above the bathhouse. We will consider the two most common options - mineral wool and foam sheets were used as insulation.

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

Insulation of the attic should begin during the construction of the roof. Waterproofing must be placed between the roofing and the rafter system. Let's start with the roof. Initial data: when covering the roof, a waterproof membrane has already been installed.

Step 1. Carefully inspect all wooden knots rafter system. They must be in excellent condition; after insulation from the inside, access to them will become impossible. Take roof dimensions and purchase materials. We recommend using pressed mineral wool mats.

Nominal sizes of mats and maximum deviations from nominal dimensions according to GOST 21880-94

In terms of price, this material is in the middle price segment, in terms of its operational characteristics completely suitable for use during insulation. Increase the measured amount of mineral wool by at least 10%.

To effectively insulate the roof, the thickness of the mineral wool must be at least ten centimeters; in colder regions, the thickness must be increased to 15 centimeters. Mineral wool is sold in thicknesses of 5 and 10 cm. If you buy the material in rolls, you will be able to make the roof insulation almost seamless - reducing heat loss from the interior.

Step 2. It is very good when builders, during the construction of the rafter system, calculated the distance between the rafters taking into account the width of the mineral wool mats. This will not only speed up the work, but also reduce the amount of unproductive wastage of material. The distance between the rafters should be 1–2 centimeters less than the width of the mat; the edges will shrink slightly and ensure a tight, stable fit. If this is not done, measure the dimensions between the rafters, add one or two centimeters to them and cut off the mats.

Step 3. Insert the wool between the rafters.

If you need to increase the width of the mats by using thin strips, you will have to fix the sheets with hardware. Use thin nails with wide heads or mushroom dowels. It is difficult to find these in the store - increase the diameter of the caps yourself. Make special washers from thick polyethylene, galvanized sheet, pieces of fiberboard and other hard materials. thin materials. The nails need to be driven into the sheathing slats.

Perform this operation very carefully. What is the reason for caution? Firstly, the sharp part of the nails should not pierce the slats - the waterproofing may be damaged. Secondly, the mats should not shrink at the points of fixation; the caps should only support the material in the desired position.

Avoid gaps and gaps between the joints of individual pieces. If you decide to lay wool in two layers, then the joints should overlap. Some manufacturers make the mat surfaces different on different sides. On one side they are smooth, on the other they are rough. The smooth side has good water-repellent properties; it should be placed against the roofing, with the rough surface of the mat facing the room. This will provide additional protection for the insulation from moisture penetration.

Using this scheme, install insulation over the entire roof area. Make sure that the mineral wool sits more or less firmly in the niches; if problem areas are found, strengthen it further.

Important. You cannot lay mineral wool mats more than three meters high, as it may shrink. And this will result in a significant loss of heat from the room. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, we recommend making wooden jumpers at the required distance as necessary.

Step 4. Now you need to protect the insulation from moisture. Water condenses from moisture at so-called dew points, and they will always be located in the insulation layer.

Water in cotton wool is a big problem. The fact is that wet mineral wool sharply worsens its heat-saving properties. And that's not all the problems. Almost completely absent from the “pie” natural ventilation, wet cotton takes a very long time to dry. At the same time, direct contact of the waterlogged material with the rafters is maintained all this time. In conditions high humidity And high temperature In wooden structures, destructive processes begin very quickly. Moreover, no one treats the rafters with antiseptics.

The vapor barrier layer is laid in rows from bottom to top, with an overlap of at least ten centimeters of material. To ensure complete tightness, the seams must be sealed with tape. The vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters with a stapler.

Step 5. Make a lath to secure the finishing slabs.

For lathing, you can use 20x50 slats or cheap types of boards of approximately the same thickness. The lathing parameters depend on the linear characteristics of the upholstery material. You can use plasterboard, plywood or OSB. Looks great natural lining, but this is the most expensive roof sheathing option.

Video - Roof insulation with mineral wool

Foam insulation

We insulate the attic with polystyrene foam

The thickness of the foam sheets also needs to be selected taking into account the climate zone of residence. 10÷15 centimeters can be considered universal; to achieve this thickness, the foam will have to be laid in two layers.

There are two ways to fix foam boards:

the first, cheaper one, is with ordinary thin nails with large heads to the roof sheathing. This method is no different from that described above in the case of mineral wool insulation;
the second method is construction foam. It is somewhat more expensive and takes longer, but is of better quality.

Choosing polyurethane foam

Important. Do not buy household foam, use only professional foam.

Household foam is supplied complete with a plastic tube through which the foam is supplied to the right place.

Everything seems to be fine, you can work, and the cost is somewhat cheaper than professional one. But that's not true. Firstly, if you did not manage to immediately use up the entire container of household foam at once, then after half an hour you can throw all the remains in the trash. It will harden and will no longer be usable.

Secondly, using a flexible tube to fill narrow gaps is very inconvenient. The tube bends with the slightest effort, it needs to be guided with a second hand, and even then this “technology” does not always work.

Professional foam has significantly improved quality, and a special gun makes it possible to use one started cylinder at any time until it is completely used up.

The cost of a gun varies, but on average does not exceed the cost of three cylinders of foam. Within just a few days of completing the work on insulating the attic of the bathhouse, it will pay for itself and begin to generate direct profit.

Model	Price
	350 rub.
	810 rub.
	660 rub.
	RUB 1,520

The gun tube is metal, allowing you to foam the narrowest crevices without any problems.

To insulate the attic, you will need more than one day and more than one can of foam, do not throw money in the trash, immediately buy a professional gun and polyurethane foam.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Technology of attic insulation with polystyrene foam

So, the materials have been purchased, insulation work can begin. And in this case, we will take into account that there is already waterproofing under the roofing.

Now it is needed not so much to prevent the foam from getting wet (it is not afraid of water), but to guarantee protection of the rafter system from moisture. After insulation with polystyrene foam, natural ventilation is completely blocked, wet rafters will quickly begin to rot with all the unpleasant consequences.

In the example of performing insulation, we will use the method of working with polyurethane foam.

Step 1. Remove the distance between the rafters, transfer them to a sheet of foam plastic and cut out the insulation along the lines.

It is better to cut thin foam plastic with a sharp one construction knife, to cut thick (more than five centimeters) use an ordinary hand saw.

When cutting, the measurement lines should be left intact, which will allow you to increase the dimensions by a few millimeters and thereby increase the strength of pressing the sheet to the rafters.

Video - Cutting foam with a hairdryer with nozzle

Step 2. Using a foam gun, carefully apply a thin continuous line on the rafters where the bottom of the foam sheet meets, allowing it to dry slightly for about five minutes. The fact is that the foam does not hold well on fresh foam; in addition, in places where it is pressed, it stops increasing in volume - there is a risk of the formation of unclosed cracks.

Step 3. Carefully place the foam in the desired location. It is highly desirable that the surface of the sheet does not touch the waterproof layer. A dew point may appear in these places, and condensed water will fall on the elements of the rafter system. This is a very undesirable phenomenon.

Step 4. Continue laying the first layer of foam in the same way.

To ensure that work moves quickly, organize it correctly. During the few minutes that the foam dries, you need to take the dimensions of the next sheet and cut it out. Apply a line of foam under the second sheet and prepare the third sheet. You inserted the second one - work in the same way with the next one. This work algorithm makes it possible to significantly reduce the time required to insulate the attic.

Carefully foam all joints between individual sheets. At first it is difficult to guess the amount of foam, but after a few sheets experience will appear and as much foam will be applied as needed.

Step 5. The first layer is laid - start doing preparatory work under the second layer of foam. With a sharp knife cut off all the foam protruding beyond the plane of the insulation; the fit of the two layers should be as tight as possible.

Check the tightness of the joints again; if problem areas are found, they need to be corrected by foaming.

Step 6. Start laying the second layer of foam.

Very important. The joints must overlap. This ensures an increased guarantee of tightness.

Step 7 The process of laying the second layer of foam is no different from that described above. We remind you once again - perform the work very carefully and accurately. Small gaps not only increase heat loss, it is not even the main problem. The trouble is that it is at these cracks that inside the sheathing will have a dew point, small areas plywood, OSB or drywall will be constantly wet. And this will certainly become noticeable over time. finishing walls - on wallpaper or decorative plaster spots will appear.

Step 8 Although polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, we strongly recommend making a vapor barrier. Without it, moist air can penetrate to wooden structures rafter system and condense on them. In this case, you already know what awaits the roofing elements.

Step 9 Nail the sheathing under the upholstery boards and begin finishing.

Video - Roof insulation with foam plastic

Gable walls

The insulation of these structures has features depending on the method of construction of the bathhouse. If the gables are made of the same material as façade walls(timber, foam blocks, bricks), then before insulating them you need to make niches for foam plastic or mineral wool. For them, boards or slats should be used with a width no less than the thickness of the insulation material.

If the gables are made of vertical supports, covered with clapboard on the outside, then no preliminary preparation not required. In most cases, a 50x150 mm board is used for the vertical supports of the rafter system, and this width is quite sufficient for high-quality wall insulation.

Floors

Most baths in all rooms have insulated flows, which means that the attic floors do not require such construction measures. If for some reason the bathhouse ceilings do not have thermal insulation, you will have to do it. Although there are options here too - the uninsulated ceiling of the rooms in the bathhouse automatically makes the floors of the attic room warm. Decide for yourself what to do in your case. Take into account the specific purpose of the attic in the bathhouse, the frequency and time of use of these premises.

If you decide to insulate the floor, you can use the same polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The laying technology has one fundamental difference– the vapor barrier layer should be placed under the thermal insulation, and the waterproofing layer on top.

Conclusion

Never skimp on the thickness of the insulating layer. If it gets too hot, you can always open the windows to ventilate the rooms. And if it’s too cold, you’ll have to spend significant additional cash for heating to comfortable temperature values.

We did not consider options with ecowool and liquid polyurethane foam for several reasons.

Video - How to insulate an attic

Video - Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

Very good for a private home reasonable decision The attic roof will be insulated. Firstly, you use the space more efficiently - thanks to the insulation of the roof, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, a workshop, a children's playroom, or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - through a cold attic, the house loses up to a quarter of all heat, and, naturally, it needs to be heated more and more often. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate an attic roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the project stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already during the construction of the house, and thus you get “room for maneuver”. In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you more - insulating the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are optimal for this.

If you are dealing with a finished building that you have decided to improve, the only option left is to insulate the attic roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises, how best to do this. Certainly, good professional, for which the thermal insulation of the attic roof is regular work, will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then you cannot be completely confident in the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, using the services of hired workers is too expensive for many. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the attic roof from the inside yourself is that doing something with your own hands is simply very pleasant.

Where to start?

How to properly insulate an attic roof? First of all, avoiding negligence and not succumbing to illusions - this work is complex, time-consuming and requires certain costs. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to somehow insulate the attic roof, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be taken into account that the configuration sloping roof in terms of arranging a residential attic provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour the useful volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose insulation?

The first step should be the proper selection of materials. Choosing insulation for a roof is not like that simple task, as it may seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic that will ensure a stable level of humidity in the room and no sudden temperature changes.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

low thermal conductivity, that is, high heat retention;
low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - wet insulation significantly loses quality;
the absence of toxic components and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential area;
fire safety.

In this case, the thermal insulation material for the roof must be vapor-permeable, that is, not interfere with the free escape of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be an accumulation of condensation and a “bathroom” atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for the attic walls and ceiling.

Another important condition is that the material for insulating the attic roof must adhere well to inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if this point is left unattended, then during heavy rain or, especially, hail, the top floor will be unusable.

Considering that metal tiles or metal corrugated sheets, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something is knocking on the roof.

To choose insulation for an attic roof, you will have to study the many materials that are offered modern market. Almost all insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary polystyrene foam, valued by many for its low cost and ease of processing, is bad because it is not “transparent” enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for rooms where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as insulation, but at the same time it cakes quite quickly and loses its shape, and with it its thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam, which is becoming increasingly popular, is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires meticulous preliminary calculations– the fact is that when it hardens, its structure expands, which is why the entire structure can “crawl.” It is necessary to take into account the strength of load-bearing elements with utmost precision.

How best to insulate an attic roof, everyone decides for themselves, based on their capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many experts, one of the best roofing thermal insulation can be called basalt slabs - this material is durable and elastic, retains heat well, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. This is due to the fact that basalt slabs have optimal width for fastening between the rafters and they do not have to be cut to the desired size.

The main rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First, you need to understand the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get a general idea of the structure of the insulated roof. Or, as the professionals put it, a roofing “pie”.

From top to bottom, the components of the pie are:

the roof itself (corrugated sheeting, tiles, slate);
sheathing;
counter-lattice;
waterproofing material;
thermal insulation;
vapor barrier;
ceiling finishing.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture rising from the room. Otherwise, condensation will inevitably accumulate, which will ultimately lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the roof space, but also for the entire house.

If you decide to insulate a finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the list above, you already have all the layers of the “pie”, up to and including waterproofing. All that remains is to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here you need to strictly follow established rules, otherwise all your efforts will be in vain.

Work order

Even before purchasing materials, you will need to calculate the area of the attic roof that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of the gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything necessary has been purchased in the required volume, you can begin installation work. Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to attach them, etc. To fix insulating films and insulation, stock up on the required number of wooden slats or a construction stapler in advance.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't installed it yet), the most important point, which is worth paying attention to, is that between it and the roofing material there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters. More is possible, less is not possible.

This is necessary for proper ventilation under-roof space - if air flows do not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inside of the coating, this will lead to the accumulation of condensation. As a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial properties, the wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, the metal parts will begin to rust, and in the end, such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is strictly not recommended to use polyethylene and other “non-breathable” materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the construction products market offers a wide selection of special hydro- and vapor barrier membranes designed specifically for this purpose and providing optimal ratio between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

Thermal insulation

Next, the insulation is installed. It should be attached strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it holds well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time the elasticity of the material will decrease somewhat. Therefore, it does not seem advisable to place it without fixing it at all.

Vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is installed.

Conclusion

How to insulate an attic roof is generally clear. The main rules here, as with any construction work- thoroughness, precision, accuracy. Observe the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then yours warm attic will delight you for many years to come.