For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product well-known brand, it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.
The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.
Selecting a workbench project
You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Carpentry workbench- general name. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(e.g. during construction or overhaul), the other is going for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A - portable workbench (mobile). Such a desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms (an extension, a garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform small jobs with small details. The relatively low weight of the structure makes it easy to move it, if necessary, to another segment. As a rule, the maximum that such a workbench can be equipped with is a medium-sized vice and e / emery. This will allow the carpentry table to be partially used for small plumbing work.
For household purposes home master the table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.
Drafting a carpentry workbench
If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.
- Length - at least 180.
- Working surface width – 90±10.
- Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.
What to consider:
- The number and type of compartments in the cabinet table. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
- To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “nests” in the tabletop to install limiters.
- To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. Optimal Width their “sponges” are 170 ± 5 mm.
- Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Workbench drawing example
Selection of materials
The bar is planed. He will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - at least 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal use, you can limit yourself to blanks of 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For the table top minimum thickness- 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more rationally. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform locksmith work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, "sixty") and upholster a small segment of the tabletop with sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.
The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. That's why for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.
fasteners
- Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side you could put a washer, grover and nut. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
- Nails. How expedient it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.
- Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
- Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
- Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.
- Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.
Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench
In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.
Manufacturing of workbench parts
- This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
- Each sample is carefully polished.
- Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
- Drying. This is worth focusing on. It is impossible to initiate this process with the help of artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.
Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)
Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).
Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so under open sky, "landing" on the glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.
Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.
table top
This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.
- The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
- The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
- The blanks are stacked face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. In extreme cases, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.
- To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
- After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).
Workbench equipment
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry make clamping devices on their own.
In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized with the complete set of the table, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
Every economic man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In that case, just necessary element the workplace will become a workbench, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.
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Indeed, in order to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, pick up right size it seems to be quite suitable for your premises challenging task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench with an accuracy of up to a centimeter.
What workbenches are
A workbench is a desktop on which the master performs manual work on the processing of wood, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, in the country and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and vices. In addition, containers are installed in workbenches for storing various tools and even documentation. By type of work, joinery, carpentry and locksmith workbenches are distinguished.
DIY workbench video:
Carpentry workbench
A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the benchtop and the benchtop. Podverstache looks like a rack (usually two), which are interconnected by wooden bars. The material of this table element is usually pine or other soft wood.
The workbench or lid is made from hard rock wood, for example, oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices you need to install on the countertop.
Note!
First of all, it should be a vice located in the front and used to fix parts.
In the back, you need to make a recess for storing small tools in it. On the edge of the workbench there are holes into which wooden chocks and metal combs are inserted. The standard workbench is suitable mainly for self made, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench with a large number of holes for stops.
locksmith workbench
The locksmith's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has metal carcass, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is laid. The lid is edged with a three-sided bead and, in most cases, a bench vise is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high shock loads, including sledgehammers.
The material is chosen at will, but the most popular MDF is galvanized, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, this countertop is easy to clean from dirt. The locksmith's workbench is equipped with several retractable drawers for folding tools.
carpentry workbench
Another type of such structures is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions that are significantly larger than the previous two options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpenter's workbench. It has a cutout in the form of a triangle, for fixing the board with wedges, and is used during the processing of its edges.
Making a construction workbench
Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame of bars, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (a connecting element that holds the structure together). It is desirable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. The installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. We carry out the final fastening with the help of clamps.
Worktop for workbench
It is worth recalling that the manufacture of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at hand at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it. Below we give a drawing of the table top, top view.
If the countertop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid, during subsequent work, dust clogging there. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be processed with a grinder and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters in your hands.
Installing a vice and creating stops
After we have installed the countertop, we need to mount a vise on them. To do this, a recess must be cut out on the work surface so that a vertical plate can be placed in the same plane with the table top. We put the vise in the place where they will stand in the future, it is desirable that this is not a corner, and we make a basting for drilling. Then fasten with nuts.
Note!
Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself.
Then we advise you to make them rectangular shape with the possibility of height adjustment. It is desirable to make holes for stops for a length of 50% of the vise stroke. In this situation, you can fix different workpieces well. A video instruction for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.
wooden workbench
Making a locksmith's workbench
Let's look at how you can make a locksmith workbench with your own hands.
- Determine the height of the future table. For each person, it can be different, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision, you need to focus only on yourself.
- Do not forget that the drawings locksmith workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
- For a locksmith workbench, the frame is best welded from profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
- To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to put spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, in which you can later put the tool, paint and varnish liquids or other necessary items.
- For stability of the structure, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from shaking while working.
- Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize if possible. This will greatly increase its strength.
- If you would like your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place skids under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have storage space for small parts, screws and nails.
Folding workbench
There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and metalwork. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient in the absence of extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait for the next job. In addition, it can be transferred to the country when folded. Such a workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench and a folding table. It is usually made smaller than a stationary table.
DIY workbench video:
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I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.
I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for me.
Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from a profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.
For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.
On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.
And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.
The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:
In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.
Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.
Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.
Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.
Now I'm thinking about different options facades.
This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what nice paint I swear on mom! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.
Covered the table top edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.
Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.
After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.
Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.
Registered on the tabletop permanent residents - grinder and vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.
1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and easy to update as needed. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.
Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.
While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).
Well, actually, for the sake of what ...
Test passed
Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.
Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something
Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood
That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost the same cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.
P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.
Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).
In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a paper towel holder, and, well, additional lighting. Thankfully for two square meters there is room to expand. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.
The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.
The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.
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Surely, every man in his youth at labor lessons more than once had to make a certain object made of wood, standing idle for more than one hour behind such a device.
And now, as an adult, and creating beautiful and practical woodwork, you are thinking about acquiring your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not to spend money, it is better to spend some personal time, getting a quality “workplace” in return.
So, what is a "carpenter's workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of various products using manual and mechanized tools.
If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should pay attention that there are several types of them:
Wood or metal?
First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work area does not take up much space.
The ideal option for a countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal is suitable.
Advice: an old unnecessary table, or a high-quality door made of solid canvas, is well suited for the base.
It is undesirable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and a frame with metal cladding.
It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. Use one to fasten without special efforts long boards, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.
Dimensions and drawing
Before we start manufacturing, it is necessary to think over its design and dimensions, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembly of the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, we indicate all the data. Further, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.
Advice: when drawing up a drawing, be guided by the size of the countertop at 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.
Tools
What set of tools will the master need:
Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.
Reference: it is extremely important at the very beginning to determine the height of the workbench. An experienced master will be able to make a device with an adjustable height, the rest are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.
How to do?
Manufacturing
This process takes place in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by the installation of countertops and the installation of all necessary equipment.
We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill through hole in a horizontal bar. After we wind the nut with the washer on the bolt from the side of the groove. In the middle of the tabletop we install jumpers (there will be boxes between them), slats are attached to them. The workbench lid will be bolted on.
Workbench base - wooden frame(recommended to use for their manufacture soft wood: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in horizontal a jumper should be placed, and a drawer should be installed along the entire length. They need to be attached to safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a margin of space can come in handy in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.
Then we move on to the step countertop constructions. This can be done with several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is for your convenience. So working area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located at the base.
We cover the work surface created by us with a vise. To do this, we construct a plywood gasket from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them, attach a vise with nuts.
When we create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vise. Such care will ensure reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.
We are also building, they can be fixed on the support of the bench space.
Let's start creating guide boxes, which will subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them, we take away the back of the workbench, we make recesses.
We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop, for them it is premature to leave grooves. We attach the slats to the jumpers horizontally, they will serve for the process of sliding the boxes.
Attach the table top to the base with bolts.. We make recesses with a chisel, drill the indicated places, after which the bolts will appear there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.
Assembly
A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Under them, openings are prepared in advance, under which small plywood gaskets are subsequently fixed.
Be careful, place the vise on the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.
We place the attachment points, after which we can start fixing the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.
Important: The vise should never be placed close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool breaking.
Supporting elements are easy to do with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.
Attention: it is not advisable to use bolts as stops, they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as an ideal and reliable fastener. Fasten the bar to the end of the workbench.
Consider the fact that rather heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:
- wooden clamps;
- turning equipment;
- milling element;
- drill (stationary).
Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fasteners are reliable and to think over all the options for convenience so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.
Finishing
The finished product can be put in order with a grinder. Thereafter, we cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. So you save yourself from getting splinters, reduce the risk of injury.
Finally, screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.
It would be more correct to install such a structure in the zone natural light, that is, at the window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench, in such a situation an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable pastime at the workbench will be if the table is not too high, and the light falls from the left or from above.
A photo
Making furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:
Useful video
The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:
Conclusion
Appearing on the farm, he will become indispensable assistant and over time, you will see for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is significant savings Money. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.
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The workbench is an indispensable attribute of any carpentry workshop. It is a desktop used for tooling workpieces, storing tools, materials, drawings and accessories.
In this article, we will look at the design and dimensions of workbenches, offer an overview of the most popular factory models and present step-by-step instructions, following which you can make a homemade carpentry workbench.
1 Arrangement and design of carpentry workbenches
As for a blacksmith, the main working tool is the anvil, so in the carpentry workshop, the main working element is the workbench. Such a desktop is universal, it simultaneously acts as a place for cutting, processing and assembling wood parts, storing working tools and fixtures.
The basic part of the design of any workbench, no matter how many operations will be performed on it, is a regular hardwood countertop (beech and oak are best). The thickness of the tabletop should be 60-70 mm, while a longitudinal groove is cut in the back along its entire length for storing small tools. Large fixtures are stored in the workbench - a shelf under the table top.
On the carpentry workbench, there must be a vice that is used to fix the workpieces being processed. The functionality of the table is greatly expanded by the holes for installing clamps, which are drilled along the edge of the inner contour of the tabletop.
The total height of the structure must be selected based on the height of the master, usually it varies between 70-80 cm. The width and length of the countertop directly depend on the size of the workshop or garage, for a single desktop, the optimal length is 2 meters, the width is around 90 cm.
A stationary table can weigh up to 100 kilograms. If you plan to make a folding workbench, then you will need to take care of facilitating it by using less thick wood. The folding design implies the possibility of unscrewing the tabletop from the legs, while the legs themselves can be collapsible or telescopic.
In the workshop, the workbench is best placed near the window, which will give the workplace daylight during the daytime. Availability artificial lighting is mandatory, also near the countertop you need to place several sockets for connecting power tools.
1.1 Material selection and assembly
For the manufacture of the frame and legs, a planed beam 100 * 70 mm in size is well suited, for a countertop it is best to take planed oak or beech boards 4-5 cm thick. More cheap option- a tabletop made of chipboard sheet, but it will last less. Remember that the thicker the boards are used, the heavier and more stable the carpentry workbench will be, which will positively affect the convenience of work.
Fasteners are selected based on whether the table is stationary (nails and screws are used) or prefabricated (bolts and nuts). From a power tool for installation work you will need a drill, a grinder and a screwdriver, it will also not be superfluous Sander, however, you can get by with an ordinary planer.
A do-it-yourself carpentry workbench is done in two stages - assembling the frame and mounting the tabletop. When assembling the base, you need to try to get the most rigid frame possible, this can be achieved by placing horizontal jumpers between the legs (at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor), which will later serve bearing element for the installation of shelves.
You can connect the frame bars to each other by gluing into the “thorn-groove” system, but it is most convenient to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. You can increase the reliability of the structure by rigidly screwing one of the horizontal jumpers to the wall, however, this solution is applicable only in the manufacture of a stationary workbench.
Having finished with the base, you can proceed to the assembly of the second part - the countertops. If a working surface consists of several boards, you need to join them together as carefully as possible so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the cracks. The boards are connected on 3 bars (side and central) located under the table top. The dimensions of the countertop should be such that its contours extend beyond the base by 5-10 cm. Upon completion of the assembly, the countertop is polished and covered with drying oil, it is easiest to fix it on the base with steel corners.
You need to fix the vise on the workbench using M12 bolts and nuts, while it is first necessary to cut holes for the bolt heads into the tabletops. You can place the vise in any place convenient for you, but not in the corner, as it can break off under heavy load.
The device of the carpentry workbench also implies the presence of stops, which can be purchased ready-made and fastened with bolts, or you can do it yourself. Under the stops, holes are cut out in the front of the tabletop, in which are placed machined to size wooden blocks. For a more secure fixation, they can be made in the form of pegs expanding towards the top.
1.2 Homemade workbench (video)
2 Choosing a factory-made workbench
If there is no opportunity to make a homemade desktop workbench, it makes sense to pay attention to factory-made products. In the budget price category the best choice there will be a Unipro 16900u desktop, which can be bought for less than 3 thousand rubles.
Unipro 16900u is an excellent metal workbench that is well suited for home amateur use. The working table has dimensions of 520 * 300 mm, which allows processing workpieces up to 265 mm wide. On the surface of the table top there is a protractor, an inch and a metric scale, and sliding holders for workpieces are also provided.
The Unipro 16900u model is designed for a total load of up to 100 kg, while the weight of the structure itself is 8 kg. With its compactness, the table is quite stable, its only drawback is the complete bolts, which are made of soft metal. Owner reviews indicate that it is very easy to break the bolt cap with a bat, so immediately after purchase it makes sense to replace the bolts with better ones.
If you need a professional workbench, we recommend that you pay attention to the Master Cut series from Wolfcraft (Germany). The line includes metal tables, for which the manufacturer gives a guarantee for a period of 10 years, which indicates their highest quality.
Wolfcraft offers the following models of carpentry workbenches:
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 1500 - working area 78 * 50 cm, height 86 cm, can withstand a load of 200 kg. The price is 24 thousand rubles.
- Wolfcraft Master 700 - differs in height adjustable within 78-95 cm and a smaller table (68 * 39 cm). Designed for a load of up to 150 kg, the cost is 17 thousand.
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 200 is the most affordable model in the line of professional equipment (price is 7 thousand). The tabletop for the workbench has dimensions of 30 * 44 cm, height - 80 cm. This is an excellent student table, which can be considered as a universal workbench for household use.
Also in the assortment of the German company are carpentry workbenches with tool storage boxes - Wolfcraft Workshop. Their working surface is made of solid beech 30 mm thick and covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. characteristic feature of the Workshop series is modularity - the client gets the opportunity to independently choose the configuration of the storage compartment by combining the shelves and drawers offered in the catalog different sizes at your discretion.
The total load that the Workshop system can withstand is 600 kg, while the maximum weight per box should not exceed 600 kg. The cost of such equipment directly depends on its configuration, prices start at 40 thousand rubles.