How to cut OSB, plywood, chipboard, MDF without chipping
Wood-containing boards are used in construction to create load-bearing elements buildings, and in quality various types sheathing. Similar materials are also used for assembling stairs, doors, cabinet furniture and other large objects/structures. In any case, large-format sheets (plywood, OSB, MDF and chipboard) must be cut and adjusted by the craftsman directly on site. This article will tell you how to do this quickly and efficiently. Below we will look at the basic cutting techniques, focusing on practical nuances that will be equally relevant for all panel materials produced by pressing wood fibers with the addition of glue.
Which tool to choose
Sheet materials made from wood always contain resins and glue, which are used to join veneer, wood chips or sawdust into a single whole. Because of this, the resulting slabs are dense and elastic, with a decent amount of viscosity. In many physical indicators they are superior to solid coniferous lumber, but at the same time they are a little more difficult to process. Meanwhile, any plywood, oriented strand board, MDF or chipboard is sawn, drilled, sanded, milled...
How to prepare for cutting sheet materials
Hand saw, knife. With some persistence and a small amount of work, you can even get by with ordinary hand tools, but, as practice shows, with this approach not only productivity suffers, but also the quality of cutting. It is difficult to make an even, straight cut with a hand hacksaw. Due to the uneven feed speed of the tool and the slow, uneven working stroke of the blade, chips appear on the planes, which are very difficult to get rid of. New cut edges, even for experienced users, rarely turn out perpendicular to the main surfaces of the sheet.
Important! If you have no other option, then a saw for cutting plywood, MDF, chipboard, OSB should be used with small, well-sharpened teeth. It is advisable to conduct it as gently as possible.
The knife, of course, is not suitable for cutting OSB, plywood, chipboard and MDF, but it can cut fiberboard in a few passes. It is also used for marking.
Jigsaw. You can use a jigsaw to cut sheet materials in a straight line, but it takes too long, and the quality is not always satisfactory. The low speed of the working blade and the reciprocating type of movement of narrow equipment leave their mark. No matter what file you use, there will always be lint and chips on one side of the slab; it is very difficult for them to maintain a straight line, especially when working along the grain far from the edge of the sheet. But a jigsaw is an indispensable tool if you need to make curved cuts at home.
Important! To cut OSB, plywood, chipboard and similar materials with a jigsaw, you need to choose the right file. The best options here are those called “clean cut”, in which the teeth point towards the tool and during operation do not push the jigsaw away from the sheet, but, on the contrary, press it. Many manufacturers produce special equipment for wood slabs; for example, we can name the Bosch company.
Manual electric milling cutter. This tool has a very high spindle speed. Its equipment can cut wood-containing boards quite cleanly, and without darkening the wood fibers, as from a laser. But for this it is necessary to carefully select a cutter for a specific type of material, and also, if necessary, finely adjust the speed of the equipment and the feed of the tool (usually it is selected within 5-20 mm per second). In most cases, the cut has to be done in 2-3 passes or more, depending on the thickness of the slab. It is obvious that the scope of use hand router limited to curvilinear cutting of small parts, making various openings and holes, as well as blind cuts in the material.
Circular saw. The so-called “circular saw” is the most convenient and most productive tool for cutting sheet materials. The straight cut after it is quite high-quality; the motor power, as a rule, is enough to saw the thickest slabs at a decent speed. What is especially attractive about a circular saw is the ability to produce a truly straight edge, perpendicular to the face surfaces of the sheets. And if you change the slope of the platform, you can make an edge at 45 degrees.
Important! The best results in sawing slabs with a circular saw can be achieved if you use discs with a large number of teeth. For example, for fast cutting that is not too demanding on cleanliness, it is better to buy a wheel with 48 teeth with carbide tipping. This option is good for both regular material and laminated material (plywood, MDF). And for especially important and precision work A thin steel disk with no soldering is best suited, which, although it dulls faster, is the least likely to tear and lift fibers.
Oriented strand board, MDF, plywood, chipboard - all these boards have quite large dimensions, so they are most often preferred to be cut on the floor, using the opportunity to literally walk onto the workpiece from above.
For large volumes of work, it is, of course, better to assemble wooden scaffolding for this, for example, from a block or edged board of the second/first grade. The time spent will definitely pay off due to convenience, safety and quality - it has been tested more than once.
Whatever tool is chosen for cutting, the slab must be lifted above the base. To do this, it is worth using wooden blocks 40-50 mm thick, which, if the working blade of the tool gets on them, will not harm the cutting edges of the equipment. When working with a jigsaw or a hand hacksaw, the bars are placed along the cut, and when using a circular saw, they are usually laid across (the disk slightly cuts through the backing block during the passage).
There are three main tasks for the wizard when pre-fixing a sheet.
- Avoid unnecessary vibrations.
- Completely eliminate the possibility of the equipment jamming in the material during cutting.
- Prevent the slab from breaking under its own weight when most of the cutting has already been done.
The main problems are solved by a sufficient number and thoughtful arrangement of holding bars-linings.
Important! Ideal option when cutting large-format sheets - this is when it is possible to create “full support”, that is, all the parts remain in place after cutting, and do not bend or break off.
There is an opinion that the sheet should be placed on the desktop with the front (which is more important for you) side down. They say that the equipment of a jigsaw or circular saw at the exit from the material tears the fibers much more. However, it is impossible to visually control the back side of the slab during cutting, and since the equipment often moves slightly to the side below, this decision can be called controversial.
It is necessary to protect the front surface from chipping or raising pile the right choice equipment and operating modes. It also helps to get a clean cut by sticking masking tape along the cut line (the marking is done directly on top of the paper).
Important! All jigsaws and circular saws are equipped with a metal support platform. Sometimes the platform is equipped with a protective polymer lining, and sometimes it does not have one. To ensure that the pad does not leave scratches or black marks on the surface of the sheet, it should also be covered with masking tape. This is especially true when working with laminated materials that are not planned to be sanded later.
Marking sheet materials such as plywood, OSB or chipboard is usually done with a construction pencil or a thin marker along a ruler, which can be a long slatted level or a plaster rule. It is also convenient to mark long sheets for cutting using a painting cord.
Important! Some craftsmen prefer to make markings by drawing a line with a sharp “shoe” knife. Due to the fact that the blade blade slightly cuts through the fibers of the upper layers (OSB chips, plywood veneer, MDF laminate), the likelihood of chipping is noticeably reduced.
To get a clear, straight cutting line, it makes sense to use a “guide”. It may be planed edged board, a block, a piece of cut slab material with a smooth factory edge, or an aluminum rule. The guide is fixed to the plate either with self-tapping screws or clamps. During cutting, the support platform of the jigsaw or circular saw is kept in constant contact with the guide. However, there are also special metal guides for branded circulars.
- 1. Try to use the maximum possible rotation speed of the equipment. Reduce it if the saw is moving with force, or if the workpiece “burns.” The higher the speed, the fewer chips there will be.
- 2. The forward feed speed of the tool, on the contrary, should be the smallest.
- 3. Always make a test cut on scrap pieces of material. See how visible the markings are during work, select the optimal speed of movement of the equipment and the feed speed of the tool, evaluate the quality of cutting and the dimensional accuracy of the finished part.
- 4. Guide the tool smoothly and continuously. Stops usually leave marks, especially since you shouldn’t cut the sheet on both sides, as is done, to avoid chipping at the end. Make sure that you have access to all the markings; place the power cable of the saw/jigsaw in a convenient place.
- 5. Saw not along the line, but as if next to the marking line - so that part of it remains.
- 6. When marking and cutting, take into account the thickness of the cut, which is formed after the teeth pass.
- 7. Using a circular saw, set the cutting depth depending on the thickness of the workpiece being cut. Maximum overhang is not needed; the cleanest and most efficient sawing is obtained if the teeth extend beyond the sheet about half their length.
- 8. Be sure to make sure that the equipment (saw blade or jigsaw blade) has reached full speed before starting sawing. Otherwise, a so-called “reverse strike” is possible.
- 9. After completing the cutting, be sure to let the disk stop completely - and only then remove the equipment from the sheet.
elka-palka.ru
What screws to use for fixing OSB and how to calculate costs
Oriented strand board or OSB is an indispensable attribute of any modern construction site. The material is used for both external and interior decoration, can play the role of a load-bearing or connecting element, for example, in a roofing pie, or can be an independent solution, say, in the role of interior partitions or ceilings.
What kind of screws to fasten OSB depends on design features structures and places of direct installation of particle boards.
The versatility of OSB is truly unmatched. It is used with equal success at any stages and cycles of construction.
In order to consider everything possible options OSB fastenings slabs, it will be convenient to divide their installation into several main groups:
- roofing;
- wall;
- floor.
Methods of fastening OSB for roofing work
Installation of OSB boards as one of the layers of the roofing pie requires increased attention to the strength characteristics of both the material itself and the fasteners used in the work.
Considering the significant wind and snow loads on the roof plane, as well as the fact that roof structures are not a static, rigid structure, experts recommend paying attention to the following points:
- when laying OSB on the roof, priority should be given to special “ruff” or ring nails;
- phosphated self-tapping screws used in OSB installation are more fragile and have less strength when the structure moves;
- the final choice of which screws to attach the OSB to the frame is up to the craftsmen and depends on the climatic conditions in the construction area;
- length of nails or self-tapping screws used in roofing works, is calculated using a simple formula: OSB sheet thickness + minimum 40-45 mm for the fastener entry into the frame;
- that is, if OSB sizes of 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm are considered standard, then, therefore, the length of the screw will be in the range of 50-75 mm;
- The fastening map looks like this: along the rafters, the pitch of the screws is 300 mm, at the joints of the slabs - 150 mm, along the eaves or ridge cut - 100 mm and the distance from the edge of the sheet is at least 10 mm.
Conclusion! When installing OSB on the roof, preference should be given to special nails, due to their greater shear strength!
Vertical or wall method of OSB installation
What screws are used to secure OSB in case of wall mounting? The question has an unambiguous and very specific answer. If recommended standard thickness used for vertical installation of OSB sheets is 12 mm, then accordingly, adding to this value the minimum 45-50 mm self-tapping screws in the rack or frame required by the rules, we get the answer -50-70 mm.
The fastening map is the same as the roofing one: in the middle of the sheet, the fasteners go in increments of 300 mm, at the joints of the plates the increment is reduced to 150 mm, the sides adjacent to the ceiling or floor are fastened at 100 mm intervals. The standard distance from the edge is 10 mm.
The choice of the shape of screws for vertical installation is determined by the need to hide the head flush with the plane of the wall. That is why, on the facades and external planes of buildings, self-tapping screws with a disc-shaped head are used, which, when tightened, not only sits in the pocket, but also does not split the wood, preserving appearance walls.
Self-tapping screws for wall installation can be replaced with nails with spiral or ring threads. Their length is determined by multiplying the OSB thickness by a factor of 2.5. In our case, this is: 2.5 * 12 mm = 30 mm. This is the minimum allowed length.
Installation of OSB sheets in a horizontal plane: floor/ceiling
There is no need to dwell in detail on the choice of self-tapping screws for installing OSB on the ceiling. The pattern, number and size of self-tapping screws used for these purposes repeats the above examples exactly.
The choice of self-tapping screws and fastener pattern for floor installation of OSB are determined by the base on which the material is laid.
If it is a beam or slatted frame, then phosphated self-tapping screws with a body length of at least 50 mm and a countersunk head are the ideal choice.
When installing OSB on a rough, solid floor, galvanized self-tapping screws with double threads are suitable. The procedure for determining the optimal length is indicated above.
If you read the article carefully, you have already noticed that regardless of where the OSB is installed, the fastener map remains the same. Accordingly, the number of screws required for the job will generally be the same.
The average consumption of self-tapping screws when installing OSB is about 30 pcs. per m². Accordingly, to install a standard sheet you will need about 75-100 pieces. self-tapping screws
Now you know which screws to use to fasten OSB for high-quality and durable use of the boards in combination with other construction and finishing materials.
Advice! When purchasing, do not chase low prices and check the quality of the screws. There are enough cases of marriage. And there are no trifles at a construction site!
baoyuan-osb.ru
Text and video: Nikita Sidorov
Lately I have noticed that more and more more houses sheathed with OSB boards (OSB - oriented strand board). And there are several good reasons for this. After all, OSB boards are an affordable and reliable material with an absolutely homogeneous internal structure.
What does OSB boards do? the best material for external cladding frame structures? First of all, it is dimensional stability. That is, all OSB boards have exactly the same dimensions after they leave the lumber mill. In addition, OSB boards have an absolutely homogeneous composition. This means that there are no voids or air bubbles in them. OSB is also environmentally friendly material, which is suitable for both outdoor and any interior work. OSB is made from fast-growing trees and production is virtually waste-free.
But the best thing is that OSB is a cost-effective purchase because... this material is much cheaper than plywood comparable in quality and physical characteristics.
When you install OSB boards, keep two things in mind: the gaps between the boards and the fastener map.
All wooden building materials change their size, because wood reacts to changes in humidity and air temperature. This is absolutely natural and applies to all wooden materials, including OSB. Therefore, to prevent the OSB boards from moving, a gap of 3 mm must be left on each edge.
Now let's talk about the fastener map. This phrase is just beautiful way tell how to hammer nails. Please note that I said “nails” for a reason. Nails, not screws, should be used to secure OSB boards during exterior sheathing. This is due precisely to the fact that nails are better able to withstand the “walking” of OSB.
In general, self-tapping screws can also be used for interior decoration. I just don’t recommend using self-tapping screws for gypsum board, because... They are considered to be not reliable enough.
So, OSB needs to be nailed along the edge every 15 cm. And after 30 cm into the intermediate posts of the frame (which were not on the edge, but inside the sheet).
This number of nails may seem excessive to some, but do not forget that when we fasten OSB, our goal is not only to ensure that the OSB does not fall off under its own weight, we also need to give rigidity to the entire structure so that the house can withstand even a hurricane, even an earthquake.
Nails should be at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB. Also, you cannot nail them closer than 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
Interesting fact: in a vertical position, an OSB board can withstand more load than in a horizontal position. This is due to the specific direction of the fibers of the material from which OSB boards are made.
When nailing OSB to the frame, always move from one corner further along the perimeter of the slab. Under no circumstances should you first nail the slab in the corners and then hammer in the remaining nails.
And the last piece of advice for today. When OSB boards are delivered to your site, they will need to be protected from moisture. To do this, place pieces of wood under the slabs and film on top, but only in such a way as not to interfere with the free circulation of air.
This will not only keep the OSB boards dry, but will also stabilize the wood and adapt it to the air humidity on your construction site.
Materials on the topic: "Is moisture dangerous for OSB plywood?"
lsmd.ru
Recently, oriented strand boards have been gaining popularity in construction. In Russian standards, this material is abbreviated as OSB; sometimes they are designated by the English letters OSB (oriented strand boards) or Russian OSB. We have already reviewed the main characteristics, brands and areas of application of these products in the article “OSB Boards: Classification and Application”. In this article we will talk about how to properly work with oriented strand boards.
First of all, when working with OSB, it is important to understand the principle of manufacturing this material. Structurally, the slab consists of chips (chips) that are oriented in a certain direction. All scraps have their own clear direction, the chips in each subsequent layer are located perpendicular to the subsequent and previous ones. This is the key to the strength of OSB. Accordingly, depending on the direction, each oriented plate has a longitudinal and transverse axes. The longitudinal (major) axis has the highest bending strength, while the transverse (minor) axis can have two times lower values. For this reason, installation should be done so that the main load falls on the main axis.
Internal structure of the material
In addition to the strength characteristics and brand, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the particle material itself. According to GOST, wood chips have certain acceptable parameters; their length cannot be less than 5 cm, and their thickness cannot be less than 2 mm. If there are no large chips in the slab, but mostly dust or sawdust, then the actual structural properties of the material are reduced.
Before using OSB boards, it is necessary that they undergo acclimatization in the environment where they will be used in the future. This is due to the fact that wood material tends to change its volume depending on humidity and temperature. Structural changes in OSB are greater than in plywood - depending on the brand, the material can swell from water by 15 - 25%.
Oriented strand board is divided into four grades. OSB-1 is a general-purpose material, designed for a humidity of no more than 65%, OSB-2 is used at a similar humidity level, but can withstand load-bearing loads, OSB-3 and OSB-4 are used in an environment with a humidity level of no more than 85%.
Acclimatization takes place within two days. The plates are installed in a vertical position, and slats are placed between the sheets to improve air circulation. According to GOST, it is recommended that the absolute humidity of products range from 2 to 12%. At the same time, in an unheated room, the humidity of the material can fluctuate at the level of 16 - 18%.
Particle boards must be protected from water even if OSB-3 and OSB-4 grades are used. Contact with liquid will cause deformation and swelling of the material. After installation, the slabs must be protected from moisture by facing materials (lining, siding, etc.). It is not recommended to treat the chipped surface with products containing a high water content. When using material for external walls, they cover him protective film To prevent the slabs from becoming saturated with moisture from the ground, the sheets are laid on wooden pads. Also, using wooden slats, you need to create airspace between the film and the OSB, again this is done for air circulation.
The ends are the most vulnerable areas of OSB; during the acclimatization process, when the environment changes from dry to wet, they can swell; in this case, they must be sanded before installation.
Before installation, OSB is cut into sheets different sizes. A hand or power tool can be used for this. When working, it is important to eliminate vibrations of the slab, so it is securely secured with clamps. To cut along a straight line, use guides made from straight boards. When sawing, it is important to use a corner so that the cut always goes perpendicular to the edge of the sheet.
When marking, you need to take into account the thickness of the cut; all tools have their own thickness. Before starting work, it is recommended to carry out a rough cutting of an unnecessary piece of material. Oriented strand material should be sawed at a moderate speed, the forward movement should be made smoothly. Marking is done using a ruler and a construction marker. Due to the large dimensions of the sheets, they are installed on a wooden stand; cutting in a vertical position is also possible. Let's look at the basic tools that can be used for cutting.
- Hand saw - a tool with a fine tooth is used to cut OSB. For serious construction work, a hand saw is not suitable, since the cutting speed is limited by the physical effort of a person. Give up completely hand saw It’s also not worth it, it can play an auxiliary role when cutting small elements. A hacksaw with a fine tooth is best for cutting OSB.
- Circular (circular) saw - the tool can be hand-held or table-top. When working with the latter, the user himself pushes the plate onto the rotating disk. For sawing OSB, discs with a large number of teeth and hard alloy tips are suitable. On some circular saws There is a connection for connecting a vacuum cleaner, which collects sawdust remaining from work.
- Jigsaw - an easy-to-use sawing tool various materials. The cutting is carried out using the movement of the hacksaw blade. Some devices have a pendulum cutting function, when the blade moves not only up and down, but also in the direction of the cut. Operating the device is simplified with keyless blade replacement. Adjusting the angle of the sole helps make complex cuts in an inclined plane. For cutting large slabs, a jigsaw is less effective than a circular saw. The main inconvenience is the difficulty of making an even cut.
Some manufacturers produce blades specifically for cutting wood panels.
Oriented Strand Board can be used in different construction fields. Depending on the application, the fastening elements vary. Commonly used are nails, self-tapping screws, screws and staples.
- Nails are a fastening element in the form of a rod, most often used for fastening OSB to an external frame (during construction frame house) and on the roof sheathing. In this regard, nails have a serious advantage over self-tapping screws, since they keep the slabs from moving. The self-tapping screw will simply break off under the weight of the vertical slab, and the nail may bend, but will continue to hold the wall of the house. Screw nails work best when working with flexible materials. Ruff and ring nails are also used and are more common for roofing work. It must be remembered that it will be difficult to pull out such nails. IN finishing works hardware with a small head is used.
For fastening it is necessary to use galvanized fasteners so that it does not corrode.
- Screw connections - these include wood screws and self-tapping screws. The fasteners are easy to tighten and unscrew without causing harm to the material. Screw connections are used when attaching OSB to concrete using dowels (laying a subfloor on a concrete screed). Screws and self-tapping screws provide better tear-off fixation, so they are more often used on horizontal joints.
- Staples - H-shaped fasteners are used to connect the edges of particle board on a roof. Pneumatic or electric construction staplers are used to fasten surfaces.
- Bonding is not used as the main method of fixation; more often, the application of adhesives is used as additional fastening when laying slabs on joists. Usually any wood glues are used; they are selected depending on the method of fastening and the humidity in the room.
Installation of OSB differs depending on the type of work. General recommendations include the presence of an expansion joint and protection from contact with water.
Expansion (expansion) seam - this element is called differently, in fact it is a regular seam. As we know from the characteristics of the material, OSB boards tend to swell, change their shape and volume depending on temperature conditions. When installed without an expansion joint, waves and bumps appear on the surface of the slabs over time. The seam between the slabs should be 3 cm, next to the walls - 12 - 15 cm, to the foundation when installing the wall - 10 cm. If the length of the mounted plane exceeds 12 m, then make a gap of 25 cm.
When installing tongue-and-groove slabs, an expansion joint is formed itself due to the tongue-and-groove design.
An example of creating expansion joints when installing a floor
Now let's look at the installation features using specific examples.
- Installation of a subfloor - oriented strand boards are laid for subsequent placement of laminate or parquet on them. Installation is carried out on logs or on a concrete screed. The thickness of the sheet when installed on a concrete screed is 8-10 mm; for logs, a slab of up to 22 mm will be required, depending on the distance between the supports. Fastening is carried out using nails or dowels with self-tapping screws, sometimes as additional means glue is used for fixation.
- Floor on strip foundation– in this case, installation is also carried out on logs made of timber, but the OSB side facing the ground is processed bitumen mastic. It is possible to lay two layers of slabs; in this case, they are laid “staggered” so that the seams are not on top of each other.
Features of the installation of rough floor coverings made of particle board materials depend on the subsequent finishing treatment. For example, tiles will require a solid base, so it is better to use tongue-and-groove designs when using roll material(carpet) gaps must be sealed using adhesive sealant.
- Installation of the ceiling - in the ceiling, schemes are used, as in the case of fixing the floor on joists, only beams are used for the ceiling. To ensure structural rigidity, the main axis must be perpendicular to the beams. The ceiling is covered with a waterproofing film to protect it from water, and special holes are made to drain liquid. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws, screws or nails.
Ceiling installation using OSB
- The walls are mounted on the racks of the frame house. The task of the particle board is not to clad the structure, but to give rigidity to the structure and create the power contour of the house. Fastening is carried out on three frame posts using screw nails, which are driven in around the perimeter every 15 cm, in the central part of the sheet - every 30 cm. When the distance between the posts is 50 cm, slabs with a thickness of 12 mm are used. The nail should be 2.5 times the thickness of the sheet itself and should be driven in at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. To prevent water from the house from condensing on the insulation and on the stove, with inside the material is protected with a vapor barrier.
- On the outside, the OSB is covered with a windproof film; it prevents moisture from precipitation from reaching the material, while allowing the wall of the house to “breathe”, organizing air exchange inside the wall. Steam escapes from the room unhindered, but moisture remains on the outside.
Multilayer wall of a frame house - “frame pie”
This structure is called the “pie” of a frame house. The main purpose of a multilayer wall is to protect OSB from condensation. Improper design leads to the development of mold and damage to the entire structure.
- Roof installation - oriented slabs are the basis for subsequent fastening of the roof; the sheets are installed on the rafter system. The thickness of the sheet is selected depending on the pitch of the rafter leg. At 60 cm, it is optimal to use slabs with a thickness of 12 mm, at 80 cm - 15 - 18 mm, for larger rafter pitches, 22 mm OSB is used. Fastening is done using screw nails, since shear fastening is important on a pitched roof. The longitudinal axis of the plates is perpendicular to rafter system. The layers of material are connected to each other in two ways: tongues or staples. If there is a tongue-and-groove connection, there is no need to make an expansion gap, otherwise the gap should be 3 mm, and fastening is done with H-shaped brackets.
When installing the roof, the slabs are laid with the rough side out to make it easier for builders to move
After installation, oriented strand board requires final finishing. The material is suitable for wallpapering, puttying and painting. But for this the surface needs to be prepared.
- Sealing seams – it is not necessary to seal technological seams. In most cases, they are covered with laminate, tile or any other external covering. Sometimes sealing seams is even harmful. When using dry mixtures, the slab may become deformed during shrinkage. For some types of work, you will still have to treat the seams, for example, when painting, a gap of 3 cm will spoil the appearance of the room, so the gaps are closed using a joining mesh, which is attached to the putty.
- Sanding – unsanded OSB does not have a completely smooth texture. To coat with paints and varnishes, it is better to use sanded material or process the product yourself using a belt or eccentric grinder. This procedure is especially relevant before treating the floor covering, as it allows you to get rid of unevenness.
A factory-ground plate has the letter Ш in its marking; unpolished products are designated by the letter combination НШ.
- Primer is the simplest and most versatile way to prepare a surface for finishing. The primer is used before painting, before laying tiles, before using varnish, etc. For oriented strand board, primer mixtures provide protection from moisture and increase adhesion (adhesion to other materials). Antiseptic mixtures can also be used to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora; for subsequent use of alkyd paints, an alkyd primer is applied. Acrylic primer is used for puttying.
- Reinforcement - the application of reinforcing mesh for subsequent plastering, laying tiles or tiles.
OSB is a multifunctional material that can be used in different areas, the features of installation and processing depend on this, but there are also general principles for working with particle boards. Care must be taken to minimize contact with water. When installing walls, it is important to ensure the correct design of the walls to avoid the formation of condensation. When laying slabs, we must not forget about the need for expansion joints.
OSB (OSB): features for working with slabs and installation recommendations
www.sdvor.com
What is good about OSB flooring: 5 tools for installation
Floors made of OSB boards can be found quite often. To install OSB on a wooden floor or walls, you do not need complex, highly professional installation, but care must be taken, since it is important not to miss a single moment in the installation technology.
How to cover an OSB floor on joists and concrete
Making OSB flooring is not difficult, and you can use the most simple panel. To make the flooring more durable, you should choose canvases with grooves. The joints should be located directly on the joists, but if they are too large, it is better to install an additional fastener. To lay OSB panels and make a floor on joists, you will first need to prepare necessary equipment.
Namely:
- Jigsaw;
- Drill;
- Roulette;
- Self-tapping screws;
- Construction level.
There should be a distance of no more than 40 cm between the beams, and in this case it is permissible to lay sheets 1.5 cm thick. If the distance is greater, then the panels should be thicker. The distance between the boards is the same, and it is also important to lay the boards correctly so that a small gap remains. The gaps will subsequently be filled with the most common polyurethane foam.
Making OSB flooring with your own hands is quite simple.
If additional thermal insulation is needed, you can use polystyrene foam or ordinary mineral wool.
It is quite possible to lay OSB sheets on a concrete screed, and for this it is worth following the sequence of actions. The foundation is being prepared. The floor must be thoroughly vacuumed so that dust does not cause poor adhesion between the canvas and the floor. It is imperative to prime the concrete surface. Any primer can be used as a solution, be it deep penetration or ordinary. Next you need to cut the sheet, this can be done with your own hands. It is definitely worth considering such a point as leaving a technical gap near the walls, which should be equal to 5 mm. This is required in order to prevent the sheets from swelling when their size increases, which occurs when exposed to moisture. Direct installation is carried out using rubber-based glue and a driven dowel. Before laying sheets on a concrete floor, you need to lay insulation and also make sure that the sheets are smooth and suitable for construction. Laying on a subfloor is not difficult, and it is possible to do everything yourself.
Advantages of floor panels
Such building material OSB board has a lot of advantages, thanks to which many people prefer to lay it on the floor. The material has such a high density that rodents cannot gnaw through the canvas and damage its integrity. This finish is resistant to moisture.
Accordingly, you can select panels for:
- Baths;
- Bathroom;
- And similar wet rooms.
The canvas has excellent pressing, and therefore even small scraps do not crumble. The product has excellent resistance to biological factors. The canvas is completely environmentally friendly, since natural wood shavings are used for production.
OSB board has many advantages
It is not at all difficult to carry out installation, whether to concrete or to any other foundation, and no professional training is required.
The cost of the material is not too high, and one element has quite impressive dimensions, which means it can cover a large area. OSB has an excellent level of reliability, which allows for the highest quality of not only finishing, but also construction. Thanks to good wear resistance, you can use the canvas for a long time and not worry about the formation of defects, since the material does not dry out. OSB is difficult to bend, easy to saw and replace with a new one.
OSB thickness and composition
The characteristics of the material mean a lot, but when choosing OSB sheets, you also need to pay attention to such criteria as parameters and manufacturer. When creating a finished floor, or perhaps it will be a substrate for laminate flooring on a balcony, you must always follow the recommendations from specialists in the selection of finishes and then it will fully meet your expectations.
Craftsmen with extensive experience working with such fabrics prefer to use panels made in Europe and Canada.
When choosing OSB boards, consider them technical specifications and the manufacturer
The thickness is selected according to:
- The type of coating the panel will be laid on;
- Budget;
- Operational properties.
As for the dimensions, there is only one standard, and it is 2.44x1.22 m. Thickness does not affect the dimensions, but the quality of the finish does. If you need to attach small pieces of OSB, then it is possible to cut the sheet at home, which will not cause much difficulty or problems.
Do-it-yourself budget OSB furniture
OSB boards are excellent as kitchen decor, for example, for covering an apron or even creating original shelves. An openwork cabinet or bookshelf in an office will look very unusual.
The use of OSB panels is very diverse, since the board can be installed as a partition between rooms, and can also be used:
- For arranging a roof in a private house;
- For finishing the stairs to the second floor;
- As a cladding;
- As a canvas to cover a warm floor;
- For making furniture with your own hands.
Using OSB boards you can make your own furniture
Due to the fact that the slabs are hard and will not warp, massive cabinets are made from them. Among the additional advantages, it is worth noting the presence of a decorative structure. The furniture is made simply, but looks very unusual, and sometimes it does not even require additional finishing.
If you glue original pictures onto OSB furniture, creating a Provence style, you can achieve excellent result and create it with your own hands original interior.
There are a lot of options, but it all depends on preferences and capabilities. If you wish, you can construct an entire children's playground inside the house, but first you need to familiarize yourself with what screws will be used to carry out the fastening.
Correct installation of OSB on a wooden floor
Over time, any coating loses its aesthetics and therefore, in order to cover the old plank floor, you need to lay OSB boards, and it is better if the board is moisture resistant. There are still some rooms in which the floor is not linoleum, but a plank floor.
Many were in a hurry to install such a coating, since it:
- Durable;
- Wear-resistant;
- Durable.
Before laying OSB boards, it is necessary to prepare the base of the floor
The principle of laying the floor in this way is not complicated. The foundation is being prepared. You need to make sure that there are no protruding nails. If during the period of operation the boards have not only become deformed, but have become uneven, then before fastening is carried out, it is necessary to carry out leveling. A plane is used for this.
When laying out cut OSB sheets, you must not forget about the seams to move the sheets.
Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 4 cm. The fasteners are installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The caps must be recessed into the covering. After completing the work, you need to sand the joints of the canvas.
How to install OSB on walls
OSB panels should not be confused with a material such as plywood, the front side of which is unlikely to surprise anyone. It is worth noting that you also need to correctly pronounce the name of this canvas.
Some misinterpret RSD as:
- WHISBY;
- YIZBI;
- WESBY;
This is required to ensure that the OSB panel is chosen to cover the floor or walls, since an incredible amount of construction and finishing materials go on sale, and it is not difficult to confuse them by name. The laminated OSB panel is laid on a self-leveling or concrete floor using compounds such as mastic or glue.
To secure the OSB board to the wall, you need a sheathing that is installed to the building frame
To glue the canvases together, that is, concrete and boards, you need a lot of composition, but how much is needed is calculated depending on the situation, since more solution is transferred to the porous coating.
To secure the product to the wall, you need a lathing that is installed to the building frame. The installation of the slabs itself is carried out with two-inch spiral nails of 51 mm or ring nails 4.5-7.5 cm long. Driving is carried out every 30 cm into the supports in the gaps. Where the slabs are connected, you need to drive in nails every 15 cm. In addition, you need to take care to leave expansion gaps so that the installation is as correct as possible. A space of 1 cm should be left between the edge of the slab located at the top and the crown-type beam. Between the edge of the slab located at the bottom and the foundation, 1 cm should also be left. Between the canvases that do not have grooves, there should be a distance of 0.3 cm.
In some cases, finishing of walls covered with OSB panels is not carried out in the future, since rooms with such finishing look very unusual. The most common method of decorating a canvas can be called puttying, since it is not only a finishing touch, but also an additional sealing of cracks and joints. High-quality puttying allows you to get a perfectly beautiful room. If necessary, the putty can be painted, covered with wallpaper or any other finishing materials.
DIY OSB floors (video)
In order for repair work or the construction of furniture from OSB panels to be carried out competently and fully meet expectations, as well as the costs of effort, money and time, it is necessary to carry out all processes according to a previously made project and only from quality material.
Photo gallery (7 photos)
criminalnaya.ru
How to cut smallpox - Teremok
I have. Probably incredible leftism is a gift.
It squints incredibly, in order to cut “straight” you have to change the angle
25-30. Or the canvas is “left” (given in the kit). How about
in these jigsaws.
PS. Installing the guide did not lead to the desired evenness of cutting -
Check the parallelism of the installation of the saw, I had such a glitch at first,
It turned out that you need to put the file on when the roller is released, otherwise when installing it
It doesn’t squeeze and warp.
Maybe your fastening is crappy (it clamps crookedly), try to fake it.
P.S. for wood, the most common one.)
here I hear Dmitriy Ksenchak saying All (well, I butted in, of course):
I prefer how to use tectolite-getinax on boards - scratch with a scriber and
OV> But a jigsaw is bad. With a knife. You cut a little and break it
Fiberboard and forward. unlike a knife, it does not wag to the sides
OV>> But a jigsaw is bad. With a knife. You cut a little and break it
AD> then not with a knife, but with a sharpened tooth on an old hacksaw blade,
AD> scratched the fiberboard and forward. unlike a knife, it does not wag to the sides
It is better to sharpen this “claw” from a butter knife! Which is old, Soviet,
with metal handle.
About 20 radio amateurs in my area have already done this.
Just don’t forget to remove the cutting edge from the workpiece. And if you also glaze it
Goodbye, Vyacheslav.
VL> NO! Don't make this out of canvases! JUNK. Enough for 5 meters of cut.
either in the trash or for regrinding. Yes, I also have an electric jigsaw.
VL> old, Soviet, with a metal handle.
VL> just forget to remove the cutting edge from the workpiece. And if it is also
VL> glaze during hardening.
I’ll try to sharpen something else :)
Take a piece of hacksaw blade for metal as a material (only take
“Old Soviet” - black and fragile) and did you try to harden it after manufacturing?
VL>> NO! Don't make this out of canvases! JUNK. Enough for 5 meters of cut.
OS> “old Soviet” - black and fragile) and cannot be hardened after manufacturing
are called Russian) they make good scratches, even without additional hardening, like
then I made a scraper (only for wood - I don’t know what it’s called in carpentry) varnish
scraped off with a bang. But the gray canvases are hardened only along the edges for this purpose
How to cut plywood, given that its sheets have minimum size 12.2x12.2 cm. After all, during construction and repair work fragments of smaller parameters and different shapes are needed, sometimes even curvilinear. Cutting this material cannot be avoided as it has become a necessity in most cases.
Those who don’t know how to cut plywood at home should look at the information below. The main tools for cutting plywood are:
Plywood is considered a fairly dense material, so it is necessary to apply physical force when cutting it with a hacksaw manually. The device is usually used to divide sheets into equal fragments. The teeth should be small to avoid damaging the structure of the material.
What is the best way to cut plywood and in what quantity. A hand jigsaw is considered an ideal tool if it is necessary to produce a small number of complex elements. With some skill, it can allow you to get neat cuts. Manual method cutting cannot be called productive, especially since it is very tiring.
Attention! The saw makes a rough cut, therefore, after this process, the ends of the sheets must be processed using sandpaper.
How to cut plywood with a laser and what parameters of the material can be cut with this tool. Plywood can be cut in this way to a thickness of 8-10 mm. This process may depend on the type of wood, type of adhesive and processing option. It is better to cut resin-free sheets of plywood from coniferous wood. Birch plywood is not recommended for cutting, and material with formaldehyde resin is even more difficult to cut. The upper part of the cut is always dark in color. The mode and level of cutting quality of all types of plywood are determined through experiment.
The laser cutting process will allow the production of parts without any mechanical influence on the sheets. Thanks to this, chips and lint will not appear around the edges. The laser beam has such a small diameter that it will allow you to cut out elements with parameters of several millimeters and complex geometric figures.
The maximum thickness of material that a laser can cut through depends on the power level of the laser emitters and is often limited to a thickness of 15-20 mm.
Important! Upon completion of the laser work, the cut can change color due to burning of the material. However, this can be both a positive and negative result of the work, depending on the desired result and the intended purpose of the parts received.
The principle of operation requires a level of training. After all, wood is a fairly flammable material, so it must be constantly cooled. To do this, the tool blows along the cutting part, which is adjusted manually. This way you can achieve maximum purity of processing without the formation of carbon deposits. At the same time, processing of technical elements is carried out, which can last longer.
Laser – best option for those interested in how to cut plywood into shapes.
How to cut plywood without chipping will become clear after familiarizing yourself with the basic recommendations regarding the work process:
How to cut 10mm thick plywood with a hand router, the following recommendations will tell you:
- The cutter is secured to the collet.
- The engine speed suitable for this operating process is set.
- The required milling depth is adjusted using a plunge limiter when working with plunge-cutters, or a specific value of the cutter overhang relative to the base is fixed - when working with edge cutters).
- A guide bearing or ring for working with edge cutters or other equipment is installed to help ensure the required path of the cutter.
- Fastening the cutter and setting it up must be done with the power cord unplugged from the outlet.
- Operating a hand router requires careful attention and concentration. During milling, you need to stand firmly on your feet and firmly hold the router with your hands. It is not allowed to work while tired or distracted to avoid injury.
- The processing element must be firmly fixed, otherwise it may be torn out of place by the cutter and thrown with great force and speed.
- You need to be wary of possible impacts when the tool touches the material. To avoid impact, you need to hold the router firmly, pressing it securely to the base and move it with smooth movements. Clothing should be chosen to work without loose parts that could catch the tool.
- It is better to avoid inhaling fine dust that occurs during the milling process. It is sucked out with a vacuum cleaner. You can use a respirator.
- electric circular saw;
- hand saw;
- electric jigsaw.
- Place the plywood sheet on a stable support and make the first slot closer to the middle of the sheet.
- Adjust the cut depth. To do this, lower the disk and start cutting, while the depth of immersion of the disk should be 0.5 cm greater than the thickness of the blade.
- To avoid injury due to the high risk of kickback, position yourself to the side of the saw's line of action.
- Prepare the saw to make the required cut. To do this, you should attach the saw shoe (its part in front) to the blade and install the blade on the cutting line, having previously bent the casing.
- Make sure there are no obstructions at the bottom of the sheet.
- Turn on the saw and slowly plunge its blade into the material. To prevent kickback, hold the saw firmly. After immersing the disk in the slot and installing its shoe on the surface of the sheet, it should be returned back protective cover.
- Run the tool along the line to the end of the canvas.
- Turn off the saw and only after it has stopped completely, remove it from the slot.
- Securely fix the material.
- If possible, cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood, otherwise it will be very difficult to obtain a straight edge.
- Under no circumstances should you put pressure on the tool; this will not increase the cutting speed, but the tool is guaranteed to break.
- The surface of the teeth should be lubricated with oil to facilitate work (subject to working with high-strength wood).
- It is undesirable to use the tool for a long time due to its heating and engine damage.
- After use, you need to clean the jigsaw and lubricate it.
Working with a hand router
The following basic safety measures are noted when using a router when cutting plywood sheets:
Thus, it became clear how you can cut plywood and the basic recommendations with the principles of work when cutting.
When producing various finishing works or making furniture, the use of plywood is a common practice. At the same time, home craftsmen are faced with a choice: how to cut plywood and how to achieve a perfect cut without chips. When cutting such material, some difficulties arise: the sheet is large in size, and the structure of its base creates difficulties when sawing. Knowing some features, you can achieve excellent results when working with an electric jigsaw, hand saw or circular saw. The main condition is to ensure reliable fixation of the plywood.
Sawing purposes and suitable tools
Depending on the purposes of sawing, we select what can be used to cut plywood most effectively. Among the tools used for work are the following:
Let's consider the features of using various tools for cutting plywood and in what cases it is more advisable to use one or another device.
When cutting plywood with a hand saw, physical effort is required due to the significant density of the material. This tool is used when it is necessary to cut a sheet of plywood into identical fragments.
A hand jigsaw is considered the best tool and allows you to decide in advance how to cut plywood without chipping, eliminating the need to purchase electric tools. It can be used to produce a small number of elements of complex shapes. Having certain skills in working with a jigsaw, you can make a neat cut, however, due to high labor costs and low productivity, this method cannot be called optimal.
If you do not have electrical tools at hand or a simple jigsaw, then you should resort to using a simple hand saw. To make cutting a sheet convenient and to avoid chipping, the tool blade must have a large number of small and well-sharpened teeth. The angle of the saw to the plywood sheet should be sharp. It is recommended to avoid jerking and uniform movements with strong pressure.
Tip: The cut of a regular saw is rough, so it is recommended to sand the end parts after finishing the sawing.
From sheets of plywood you can create various shapes using a circular or circular saw, but the main purpose of these tools is to create rectangular cuts. When cutting material, it is very difficult to get a neat cut because the rotation speed of the discs is very high. In this regard, preference should be given to those cutting wheels that have small teeth and are used for working with wood. When processing plywood, it is good to use cutting wheels designed for sawing chipboard.
Tip: when cutting a plywood sheet, make sure that the pressure on the sheet is insignificant and the rotation speed of the disk is low.
When making furniture or repairing it, you often have to choose what to cut laminated plywood with. To get a clean cut, you need to select discs or blades that have frequent and fine teeth. Great value has the angle of their sharpening, as well as the shape. It is advisable to select discs with a positive sharpening angle and different tooth shapes (alternating trapezoidal and straight teeth are observed). If the disk has negative sharpening angles, then it is necessary to reduce the speed, otherwise the wood will burn.
Important: the larger the diameter of the disc, the wider the cut will be and, accordingly, the number of chips will increase. It is completely impossible to avoid the formation of chips, but it is possible to reduce their number and size to such an extent that subsequent processing can completely eliminate all roughness.
A relationship has been established between the size of the chip and the saw teeth: small ones leave less damage than large ones. The amount of tooth set affects the cleanliness of cutting plywood. The best result is achieved with minimal wiring. You can check this parameter using a regular ruler. You should not saw a thick sheet using a disc with minimal tooth spacing, since increased friction will cause it to burn and the disc will become pinched.
Electric jigsaw
An electric jigsaw is best for cutting any plywood. When working with this tool, you should use small files, cut the blade, pressing the jigsaw and avoiding jerky movements. Upon completion of the process, the ends of the material are processed using sandpaper.
Advice: when choosing saws for an electric jigsaw, you should give preference to those models that are marked “clean cut”. Most manufacturers of cutting tools have saws in their assortment for these purposes; for example, BOSCH has a product line called CleanWood. Distinctive feature teeth - regular triangular shape and the ability to cut in opposite directions.
You should not purchase low-quality tools, since after a cut 5 meters long, the cutting edge becomes severely dull, which causes chips to appear. The absence of setting and the opposite sharpening of teeth located next to each other and the small width make it possible to make complex figured cuts. But these qualities of files for finishing cutting cause the fragility of the blades.
Finish cutting of plywood can be done using blades for working with metal parts. The size of the teeth of such saws is minimal, which greatly slows down the cutting speed, but allows you to achieve the highest quality. Since the width of the metal files is large, it is possible to carry out a figured cut only with a large bending radius (0.6-0.8 m).
Features of cutting tools
Each plywood cutting tool has its own characteristics when used. Let's look at the rules for working with different types of plywood. cutting tools.
Sawing with a circular saw
To effectively cut a sheet using a circular saw, you should adhere to the following rules:
Cutting with an electric jigsaw
To obtain an even cut, the sequence of actions should be as follows:
Working with a hand saw involves a lot more labor compared to a circular saw. To properly cut a sheet of plywood, you need to consider the following rules:
- Make a vertical notch along the cut line. To do this, you need to place a saw blade and pull the blade through to form a groove.
- Tilt the saw blade until an acute angle is formed with the plane of the sheet (from 30 to 40 0) and begin to make smooth movements.
- To maintain an even cut, the forearm and shoulder should be located in the same plane. If you deviate from the specified direction, you need to slightly bend the saw in the desired direction and continue working.
- To avoid the formation of a fracture, you need to hold the part being sawn off with your unoccupied hand.
- When you finish cutting, you need to return the blade to a vertical position and finish the work by making several movements perpendicular to the sheet of plywood.
- Before cutting, you need to take all measurements and check yourself to avoid annoying mistakes;
- During operation, you must monitor the power cord;
- before using the tool, you need to adjust the cutting depth to an unnecessary amount;
- the saw blade must be suitable for cutting plywood;
- the use of a saw must be accompanied by the use of protective gloves and goggles;
- dull saw blades are more dangerous than sharpened ones;
- When sawing plywood, you must be careful not to bring your hands close to the blade;
- Do not start work without skills in using power tools.
This is interesting: the hard coating of laminated plywood imparts heterogeneity to the material, which causes chipping during processing. Another reason for the appearance of such defects is determined by the speed of movement of the cutting edge, the shape of its teeth and the applied forces. Often the jigsaw blade breaks out large pieces of plywood, which is due to the use of saws with large teeth or pushing through the top of the sheet.
How to get the perfect cut
In order to get a perfect cut from the end side, you can use either a hand saw or a power tool. There are several techniques to help achieve high-quality plywood cutting. Here are some of them.
The principle of this technique is to reduce the distance between the saw blade and the pressure pad to the minimum possible. This avoids breaking off the top layer of plywood. This effect can be achieved by attaching an overlay plate to the sole of the tool. The pad has a slot to maintain the ability to saw along the intended line. Thanks to this, the teeth are guaranteed to cut small chips and not break out the material.
It is important to prevent mechanical damage to the sheet surface by the overlay. The pad should be changed every 5 meters of cut. The use of linings made of more durable materials (metal, plastic or fiberglass) eliminates the need to frequently change the linings, the surface of which must be pre-polished.
For protection back side tape is glued along the cutting line of plywood. This method helps prevent large pieces from breaking off, which is especially effective if you decide to use a manual or electric jigsaw. However, not every adhesive tape is suitable for these purposes. For example, masking tape in this case will be completely useless due to its small safety margin.
Before you start sawing, tape with fiberglass or aluminum reinforcement is glued to the surface. The requirements for its width are as follows: there should be a margin of 1.5-2.0 cm on both sides of the cutting line. It is better to paste by pressing the tape with a dry cloth, preventing the formation of wrinkles and gluing.
After the saw blade or electric jigsaw has stopped working, you should remove the tool, first unplugging it from the power supply. Then start peeling off the tape. In this case, great care should be taken so that sudden movements do not cause the tearing of small fragments of the laminated surface that inevitably form during cutting. Therefore, it is necessary to abandon the use of materials with a strong adhesive base. When choosing such a tape, you should take into account its adhesive ability and ease of cleaning from rough surfaces.
To cut a plywood sheet correctly, you must use the right tool and follow some rules:
It is quite possible to achieve excellent quality of plywood cutting at home if you use a guide rail in your work, correctly cut the material and follow safety precautions when working with cutting tools. Knowledge about the structure of the plywood sheet and the features of its processing will help you avoid annoying mistakes and avoid additional expenses on purchasing new material to replace the damaged one.
How can you cut CBPB?
Standard pressed slabs 3m*1.5m*10mm
How can you cut DSP without dust? Otherwise, a lot of dust is generated when cutting CBPB with a diamond blade.
A fence cutter with one disc, right?
I tried it with a wall chaser, but on the other hand, everything flies, the material is 10 mm, and I still don’t want to carry a piece of dust
Without a casing, it's absolutely terrible.
tough electricians in Serov))
as well as carpenters, tilers, welders, gardeners, economists, steelworkers and programmers
A long time ago, when I started, I cut them with ordinary stone discs of 125, one was enough for exactly 1.5 meters
The disc hardly cut metal, it simply melted and the DSP melted
then I started cutting with diamond, the disc doesn’t even wear out
then using a wall chaser with or without a vacuum cleaner
Productivity gradually increased
Now I’m thinking that it will be cleaner when cutting
if the cleanliness of the cut is not particularly important, file a strip and then break it off. it looks like it should work.
I did this when cutting metal with a disk, it turns out to be a terrible edge, but it should be more or less even for joining plates, after cutting I also remove the chamfer by hand a little
Well, I don't know. if only the diamond is charged into the circular machine through an adapter and along the bus. there seems to be a more powerful motor)
And if such " > ? It’s like they’re sawing metal and it turns out to be shavings and not dust.
The shavings are more like a milling cutter. It’s hard to believe that it will pull with such an engine. DSP is closer to concrete. Like many videos, there was probably some cheating here. and I think it will require a lot of coolant..
There was probably some scam involved here.
That’s probably true, because the power is no more than that of my jigsaw and it doesn’t cut metal like that
well at the jigsaw linear speed less than the radial of the disk. after all, 80m-min on all discs. the jigsaw smokes, and the teeth and tungsten won’t win))
Try cutting it with a jigsaw (though I don’t remember what kind of saws, maybe for metal?). I sawed at my dacha a couple of years ago and didn’t experience any difficulties.
Does anyone have experience working with this material? What was it treated with?
you can take an AEG MBS30 with a diamond blade
You can put a disk from a set of 6 teeth on it, code 4932 3525 34 Fiber cement DSP
Just don’t expect it to be completely dust-free and with a standard turbine.
If you connect an external dust collector, then there is practically no dust.
Try cutting it with a jigsaw (though I don’t remember what kind of files, maybe for metal?)
I need to try it, but what kind of files and what speed?
Remaking chargers and more
A jigsaw on a DSP? pendulum and the files burn like matches. I have this machine for such things” >, both for DSP and GVL with a bang. The disk just now noticed that it had become addicted and I don’t know why, either from the metal or from the DSP. I took it last summer, purely for testing - it’s still alive.
The disk just now noticed that it was hooked
What is the disk there and where can I get it?
It turns out that this is an analogue of a caliber saw " > ?
It turns out this is an analogue of a caliber saw
Yes, when I took my file I didn’t hear anything about the caliber one, they have the same discs.
And how long does it take to cut a DSP? and how dusty is it?
It turns out they also sawed a lot of metal?
If 500W can handle it, then if you have a circular saw weighing about one and a half kilos, it will simply tear up the DSP in batches.
if you want no dust, see the topic » >
1 photo clearly shows where all the exhaust goes during cutting
if it’s a cheap analog caliber, then look again
on 115 mm diold » >
there is a lot of dust at the end of the hose but the disc is clean
Is there a turbine on the exhaust?
but it’s true. a super idea came from one of the developers)) just right for the street)) or at home in the window))
well, or at home in the window))
Anatoly, when you start whining like that, don’t forget to fence off the area.
Well, exhaust through the window to make it more fun for the neighbor. In a word, you can’t do without a vacuum cleaner, unless you try hanging a bag on the end of the hose, but I doubt that it will be good.
There is also this little thing: . The engine is 710 W and weighs 1.7 kg. It must be more pleasant than having a three-kilogram fool squirm over a sheet of slate. True, as always, the Dremel is very plastic in nature, and it’s expensive. On the other hand, cutting even a small diamond disc, such as “>” on these sheets to zero, will still not be possible instantly. What do you think?
Well, if it’s not the dust itself that’s depressing, but the fact that it flies wildly in all directions and you have to work in a cloud of this muck, then why not use a sabre? I have used it on drywall and gypsum fiber, and it cuts just fine. There is little noise, the dust falls off quietly, the speed is as fast as you can move it with your hand, nothing stops the saw (the jigsaw is resting, it is much more inconvenient for them). Saber calmly takes tongue-and-groove blocks, I think she shouldn’t have any problems with these sheets either. Fabrics for concrete/brick/slate to choose from: » >
Fiberboards are an inexpensive and functional material that is successfully used in finishing and construction work. And this is understandable, because it can be easily bent, glued, and nailed. However, depending on the type of slabs, they can be used slightly differently.
Rough floor finishing
Subfloors are installed from hardboard quite often; this material is especially suitable for leveling old plank floors if work on their dismantling is not expected. In addition to resulting in a perfectly flat surface, the fiberboard layer will serve as a good heat insulator, which is especially important for residents of private houses or first-floor apartments in old high-rise buildings.
Important: fiberboard floors (even waterproof grades) are not suitable for wet rooms (bathrooms, showers), as they can become deformed and warped under the influence of water vapor.
For laying the subfloor, untreated fiberboard with increased hardness or soft fiberboard is used as a soundproofing pad. Despite the abundance of hydrophobic additives in the production of modern fiberboards, experts advise that they be further processed before installation. Impregnation with hot drying oil in 2-3 layers gives good results. After complete drying, the sheets can be laid.
Fiberboard floor ready for further processing
If old base for the floor it is quite flat, hardboard is laid on it directly. If there are significant level differences (more than 10 mm), you will have to level the old floor or lay joists. In any case, the surface for laying fiberboard is pre-treated with an antiseptic primer.
Many modern enterprises that sell building materials offer their customers cutting fiberboard to individual sizes upon purchase. Special high-precision equipment guarantees that the work of cutting material and processing edges will be done with high quality, without chipping. In this case, your main task will be to accurately take all measurements. If you are so unlucky, you will have to cut the hardboard yourself at home.
Basically, for this suitable for work and a fine-tooth hand saw. After all, small irregularities formed at the cutting site do not matter for laying the material as a subfloor. When there is a significant amount of work, cutting fiberboard is much faster and easier using the following devices:
- a jigsaw or circular saw, preferably with a laser guide;
- saw blades special brand, suitable for cutting hardboard;
- trestles with an inclination of 20-25% from the vertical, allowing you to fasten a large-format fiberboard sheet;
- metal ruler
- marker.
If you have to cut fiberboard for the first time, in order not to spoil the material, first practice on a small piece, placing the jigsaw blade to the right of the marking line. Be sure to first familiarize yourself with the techniques of experienced craftsmen, for example, by watching thematic videos, one of which is presented below:
If after laying the fiberboard it is planned to lay linoleum, the hardboard is laid with the wrong side down. In other cases, the corrugated surface will provide better adhesion of the fiberboard to the finishing materials, so it is turned upward.
Installation usually starts from the corner opposite front door. Fiberboards are fastened using special staples, nails or screws, or glued with mastics. Before nailing or gluing, they try to fit the sheets together with a minimum gap to make puttingtying the seams easier.
By the way, there is no need to seal cracks near the walls; on the contrary, be sure to leave technological gaps that will allow the fiberboard to “play” without deformation when expanding with temperature fluctuations.
Important: joining four corners at a single point is prohibited! The sheets are laid so that there is no overlap between the transverse joints in adjacent rows.
The easiest way to cut fiberboard when going around a heating pipe is with a regular knife. More accurately, such work can be done using a specially created template made of thick cardboard, using a jigsaw.
After laying fiberboard, if you plan to finish the floor with linoleum or paint, it is necessary to seal the seams. In addition to having high adhesive properties, the mass with which we will putty the fiberboard must certainly be plastic, since fiberboard floors are somewhat springy and are capable of changing their linear dimensions. If you putty the floors with hard and monolithic putty, then it can either bend and deform the fiberboard sheet, or itself tear at the junction of the seams.
Wall and ceiling finishing
Fiberboards are also in demand for finishing walls and ceilings. This material is especially often used at the stage finishing works during the construction of cabins, country houses, sheds and garages, which is greatly facilitated by its very affordable price.
The nail heads on the ceiling also need to be treated before further finishing.
If polystyrene foam is used as a heat-protective layer, it can be glued to the fiberboard using point fastening with liquid nails. Using mineral wool, you will have to spend time putting together the sheathing. At the same time, sealing seams to reduce labor intensity is performed using decorative overhead aluminum elements or wooden planks.
If the walls are made of enough durable material(brick, foam concrete), then fiberboard can be attached directly to them, without lathing, using suitable polymer adhesives and mastics. To increase water resistance, such walls are treated with hydrophobic varnishes or paints after installation. Using a few more expensive types Fiberboard (for example, laminated), you will get a much more aesthetic wall surface that will not require additional finishing.
If you want the walls to look more aesthetically pleasing, you can decorate the fiberboard with wallpaper.
Important: before gluing wallpaper on fiberboard, the surface should be sanded and then coated with a primer!
To neutralize the effect of moisture contained in wallpaper glue on the fiberboard, it is best to prime the sheets with hot (heated to 50°C) drying oil or acrylic primer. Before doing this, thoroughly clean the surface to be treated from dust and debris.
Fiberboard joint putty
If the installation of fiberboard was carried out using nails, then in order to avoid rust stains on the wallpaper in the future, at this stage all fastening points will also need to be sealed with putty. The joints of the boards will also have to be puttied (and in several layers), otherwise, after wallpapering, the joints will still be visible.
After preparatory work finished, you can start gluing wallpaper. In this case, the glue is applied not to the cut canvases, but to the wall surface. Otherwise, the gluing technology is similar to the usual one.
Interior arches made of fiberboard
Interior arches radically change the design of the room, giving it a touch of originality and nobility. They are in great demand in small apartments, as they visually increase the space.
Due to the fact that fiberboard is quite pliable and the sheet can be easily bent, it is difficult to find a more suitable material for making an arch. At the same time, if you make an arch with your own hands, it will cost you much less than ready-made structures made of solid wood or MDF.
It is easiest to work if the configuration of the arched opening is round or oval. A pointed arch can also be made, but you will have to glue two fiberboards together at the joining point.
An oval arch made of fiberboard is the easiest to make arched design
Having decided on the shape, we cut out the desired shape from hardboard using a jigsaw. These blanks are installed in the doorway. To easily bend fiberboard to the desired configuration, finishing the ends of the mounted structure, it can be impregnated with PVA glue, after which the plasticity of the material increases even more.
You can decorate the resulting arched opening by gluing wallpaper. In this case, before finishing you will have to putty and sand all the seams. If sealing seams seems too labor-intensive to you, you can finish the joints with decorative plastic corner, which is easy to glue to fiberboard using PVA glue or the same liquid nails.
4homes.ru - DIY house
Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support
Fully supported cutting means that when you get the saw to the end, the chipboard you are cutting will not immediately fall off.
Place 5x10cm pieces of wood under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, since the saw will pass through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.
Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth
The appropriate cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.
Adjust the depth so that no more than half the disc's teeth protrude beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of the cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material rather than chopping it, and also stabilizes the saw so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on a chipboard cut less noticeable.
Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a rigid, long, straight object as a guide.
As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need to do is tighten its ends with a clamp.
Add this to your cut width, mark the chipboard on both edges, and apply a guide board. You will also need to factor the thickness of the saw blade into your measurements.
It is usually best to have the metal base plate of the circular saw rest against the edge of the guide to ensure maximum stability of the saw while cutting.
Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut
Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping
Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, it will leave a mark on the chipboard or plywood.
Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through a sheet of chipboard with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too quickly tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.
Tip 6: Get a blade with more teeth
In principle, all the disks from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside of the 140-tooth blade is that it becomes dull faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth disc. It's better to keep one more in reserve. The 56-tooth blade is typically used for cutting laminate flooring.
You need to remove it carefully, pull it in a direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the laminating coating of the chipboard.
And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.
teremok1.ru
Laying OSB on a wooden floor with your own hands
Floor and ceiling
OSB boards are a popular building material consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with resins, which have become an excellent replacement Fiberboard and chipboard. The gluing of the slabs is carried out in several layers: to create external ones, the chips are laid along the length, and for internal ones - narrower along the width. This placement gives OSB boards increased strength and gives them the ability to firmly hold screws (or other fasteners used). Unlike fiberboard and chipboard, OSB sheets have a normal thickness.
Several layers of OSB laid on the floor provide excellent sound insulation, increase thermal insulation characteristics, and also soften the impact of the floor when walking. Modern manufacturers have stopped adding toxic substances to the slabs, so this building material is completely environmentally friendly.
OSB is often used to level wooden floors that have become unusable over time. OSB boards are easy to install and do not require special skills or tools, so correcting uneven wood floors will not be difficult. How to do it yourself - read further in the material.
OSB on a wooden floor: how to lay it
If the main wooden surface has unevenness, then it is necessary to level the level using special logs, and only then begin laying OSB sheets. The fixing bars must be installed at an even distance from each other, taking into account the joints. In some cases, to eliminate mobility wooden planks, the floor will have to be rebuilt (install new boards in problem areas). It is worth removing paint deposits and protrusions from a wooden surface using sandpaper. After this, it will not be superfluous to prime the wooden floor, although this is not necessary.
To ensure maximum reliability, the underside of OSB sheets must be covered with waterproofing. If you intend to lay laminate after OSB boards, then it is worth making vapor insulation on the surface of the boards using polypropylene foam film to prevent condensation.
Now we spread the OSB boards across the floor so that the seams of the next row are offset. There should be no joints in the form of a cross! Gaps between the slabs are also provided - 3 mm, and along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm. Afterwards, holes must be drilled in the OSB sheets, and their diameter should be the same as that of the wood screws, which will subsequently secure the OSB board to the floor. The holes themselves must be drilled at a distance of approximately 20-30 cm from each other.
Now you can begin fixing the OSB boards to the wooden floor. The optimal length of screws is 45 mm or more. If there are no self-tapping screws, then you can use nails, but this is not the most best alternative. To increase strength and other positive characteristics, you can lay the second layer of OSB, but only in such a way that the seams of the above and underlying layers are placed with an offset of 20-30 cm (that is, the placement of the seams of the first and second layers should not coincide).
At the end of the work, all gaps can be filled polyurethane foam, the remains of which can be easily cut off with a construction knife after drying. That's actually the whole process.
Preparing OSB boards for finishing
If the natural pattern of OSB slabs suits you, then you can varnish it, install baseboards and the floor will be ready, but another type of finish can be installed on top of the slabs. If you still don’t plan to install anything on top of the slabs, then in any case it is necessary to cover them with varnish or a special substance that will protect against bark beetles and excessively rapid wear.
When laying laminate over OSB boards, there are no special requirements. Here it is enough to have a surface without sharp changes, and then the laminate, which is equipped with fasteners, will lie on OSB boards without any problems.
But linoleum and carpet need a perfectly flat surface. Even the smallest differences at the joints will make themselves felt during use, and outwardly it will not look attractive. If the carpet is laid elastic, then all the cracks and changes will be felt even when walking. To eliminate all unevenness, it is best to cycle the floor before laying these roll materials to obtain one level.
How to seal cracks in wooden floor
Marmoleum: DIY installation
Marmoleum, what is it, reviews of the material
DIY wood floor painting
Video related to the article:
If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.
Add a comment
domgvozdem.ru
OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern construction material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in construction frame houses and finishing of buildings and structures. OSB boards are used to cover interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction when the plate protrudes construction material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a façade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will look at the question: how to attach OSB boards to the wall from the outside.
When installing OSB boards to external walls, sheathing is used for the following purposes:
- leveling the wall plane;
- creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB board;
- preventing slab deformation caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.
Fastening OSB boards to the wall over insulation using lathing
Fastening the slab to the wall is carried out using lathing, which is made from wooden block, or metal profile. The technologies for installing OSB boards on a wall with wooden sheathing and sheathing made of metal profiles are not fundamentally different. When choosing a block, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed block of 40-50 mm, then it will not twist or move after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.
To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (hangers) are used. Before attaching the hangers, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which will subsequently ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.
A metal hanger is used to secure the sheathing. 
Suspensions are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to secure the sheathing over the insulation.
After this, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the sheathing is installed.
It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed on the outside of the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely escape outside.
Wall with sheathing. Insulation is laid between the sheathing and the wall. After securing the sheathing, you can begin installing the OSB boards. For wall cladding, a slab with a thickness of 9 to 12 mm is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. To the sheathing from wooden beam OSB boards are fastened with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet. For metal profile sheathing - use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.
With this installation, the sheathing weighs above the insulation and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the insulation is achieved. In addition, between the sheathing beams there is an air gap through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also improves its performance. More detailed information about ventilated facade technology is in the article:.
Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame
When building frame houses, recommendations for choosing sheets are the same as for covering previously constructed walls. The only difference is when the sheets act as a rigidity element. In this case, their thickness must be at least 12 mm. The recommended thickness is usually 15-18 mm.
When installing walls with wooden frame Two main approaches are used: attaching OSB sheets to the frame through the sheathing and attaching OSB sheets directly to the frame without sheathing. Let's look at both.
How to attach walls to a frame using sheathing
When strong slabs are attached to the frame on the inside of the wall, ensuring good rigidity of the wall structure, then a sheathing can be made on the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The sheathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces the deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.
Insulation is placed between the frame posts. A wind and waterproofing membrane is attached over the studs and insulation, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the sheathing and OSB boards are attached to it.
Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with sheathing. With this design, the slabs can be left unfinished; you can paint them, plaster them, or attach almost any façade material to them.
When fastening OSB boards without using sheathing, maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to attach the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB board, then install the sheathing to create a ventilation gap and install facade material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are attached to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.
The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB on the outside of a house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformation of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.
Installation of OSB on the walls of a frame house without sheathing
Among the methods of providing rigidity to the frame, three methods are considered optimal, which can be combined with each other:
Fastening sheet materials to frame posts inside the house;
Jib joints between frame posts;
Fastening sheet materials to frame posts outside the house.
When OSB sheets are mounted to the frame posts outside the house, the sheathing between the sheets and the frame posts leads to a reduction in rigidity by almost half. Therefore, to ensure maximum structural strength, this sheathing is excluded from it. Without the sheathing, the ventilation gap disappears, so it is recommended to attach such sheathing on top of OSB sheets. A waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the OSB, then a lathing, and on top any suitable façade material: siding, corrugated board, wood, façade panels and so on.
Technology for attaching OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of sheathing. The option described above is preferable. But there are other ways. When it is necessary for OSB sheets attached to racks to act as a facade, and nothing is mounted on top of them, then ventilation gap can be arranged between the frame posts. For this purpose, the space between the frame posts is not completely filled with insulation. Leave 2-3 cm for a ventilation gap between the insulation and the OSB sheets. The waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the frame using slats. So that these slats remain between the racks - on two sides to each rack.
A compromise option is to use oblique sheathing. It is laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This helps to increase rigidity compared to straight sheathing. To increase rigidity, boards 25 mm thick are better suited for such sheathing. The board is attached to each frame post with two nails. Due to the increased consumption of materials and the complexity of the work, this method is used extremely rarely, so there is no statistical information about operational characteristics built houses.
Oblique sheathing. Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame
Fastening is carried out similarly to the option with a wooden frame. When attaching slabs directly to a metal frame, use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.
General rules for installing OSB boards to the wall
Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the cladding structure.
- Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
- A 10 mm gap is required between the bottom slab and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
- The slabs cannot be joined closely to each other; a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the slab can expand freely due to changes in humidity.
- All door and window openings are cut out with a jigsaw or a circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can take ready-made sizes and OSB sheets to a furniture shop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a format-cutting machine evenly and precisely to size .
Which side to mount OSB sheets
All sides of OSB sheets do not differ in composition. But there are differences in the surfaces. Often one side is smooth and the other is rough. In this case, when installing slabs on walls on the outside of a building, it is better to mount the sheets with the smooth side out. With this orientation, rainwater will not accumulate in such quantities in the uneven areas of the slab. Water helps accelerate the destruction of the slab. Protecting sheets from water penetration helps increase their durability.
When installing slabs on the roof under the roof, in turn, it is recommended to place OSB sheets with the rough side up so that they are not slippery to walk on during roof installation work.
When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.
In most cases of installation of OSB sheets outside the house, a ventilation gap is provided. Air moves along it, which enters from the bottom of the wall from the surrounding space and exits from above back into the atmosphere. Blind sealing of ventilation gaps on any side is not acceptable. Otherwise, instead of a ventilation gap, you get a closed air cavity.
Wasps, mice, and small birds can enter the ventilation gap and build nests there, thereby violating the characteristics of the wall. Therefore, it is recommended to provide protection at the stage of its construction or repair.
There are several options for protecting the wall from rodents, birds and insects, let's look at them.
- Protection using metal mesh and sheet metal with small holes. It is better to use stainless steel, which will not corrode. Mesh or strips of metal are attached to the bottom and top of the wall behind the OSB sheets so that they do not affect the appearance of the house.
- Painting mesh. Differs from the previous version in low price and less strength.
- Perforated facade material at the bottom and top of the wall. For example, in the case of siding, these are perforated soffits.
Grilles or meshes are mounted at the inlet and outlet of ventilation gaps. Expert advice
Prev Next
To prevent oil paint from drying out during storage and to prevent a film from forming on it, place a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.
"The polyethylene film covering the balcony or greenhouse is protected from being torn off by the wind by a string stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."
"To work with concrete mixture it was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon to it washing powder based on a bucket of water. "
"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the obstacle, from rotating along with the nut being tightened, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire over it and lightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is held well in place. The ends of the thread can be trimmed after tightening."
"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out the half-holes with a chisel or hatchet required size, and then reconnect the halves. "
Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut out the new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Using a nail of a suitable diameter heated red hot, melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.
"It is not difficult to turn a carpenter's level into a theodolite by equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight."
"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end to end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the noleum."
"To ensure that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driven into a deep hole or groove, it should be placed inside the tube, secured with crumpled paper or plasticine."
Before punching a hole in a concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below it. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.
"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"A simple device will help you move logs or wooden beams - a piece of motorcycle or bicycle chain, equipped with a hook on one side and attached to a crowbar on the other side."
"In order for one person to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom position."
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.
"The best way to stick tiles to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. It sticks dead in place."
It is most convenient to cut shaped holes in the manufacture of shaped window frames with a hacksaw with a turned blade.
"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."
“If you don’t have a dowel at hand, you can make it from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready.”
"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."
"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "
"It is more convenient to secure portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The pins are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared with nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum."
" Screw the screw into hard rocks wood is not so easy. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork. "
To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.
For carrying at home large sheets plywood, glass or thin iron, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.
IF you need to saw a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely along the stick.
It will be better and easier to work with a hacksaw if in the middle part you increase the height of the teeth by 1/3.
If on the front of the machine bow saw attach a load weighing about a kilogram, then the work will become easier. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.
"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors. "
"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. Take a piece of rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. It is protected from slipping off by a ring cut from old car mobile camera. "
" Avoid using clamps when gluing wooden frames A laundry cord will help. Place four short loops on the corners of the frame and tighten the frames diagonally with two long ones. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "
"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, lubricated with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."
"To make it easier to sand a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it with an iron through a damp cloth - and the work will become easier."
"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."
" Door hinges they will not creak if they are lubricated in time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, you need to make a washer from a polyethylene cork and put it on the hinge pin. "
"A door latch that has failed due to a broken spring can be repaired as follows: the role of the spring can be successfully performed by a piece of rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic rubber installed between the bolt and the latch body."
We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in the open position: a wooden or plastic plate in which a number of holes are drilled for the latch. The plate is attached to the window frame with a screw.
"Cut to sheet material A large hole can be made in a simple way: clamp a nail in a vice (it will serve as an axis) and a piece of a drill (this will serve as a cutter). The circle is cut by rotating the sheet around its axis. "
Recently, oriented strand boards have been gaining popularity in construction. In Russian standards, this material is abbreviated as OSB; sometimes they are designated by the English letters OSB (oriented strand boards) or Russian OSB. We have already reviewed the main characteristics, brands and areas of application of these products in the article . In this article we will talk about how to properly work with oriented strand boards.
What is important to understand when working with OSB
First of all, when working with it, it is important to understand the principle of manufacturing this material. Structurally, the slab consists of chips (chips) that are oriented in a certain direction. All scraps have their own clear direction, the chips in each subsequent layer are located perpendicular to the subsequent and previous ones. This is the key to the strength of OSB. Accordingly, depending on the direction, each oriented plate has a longitudinal and transverse axes. The longitudinal (major) axis has the highest bending strength, while the transverse (minor) axis can have two times lower values. For this reason, installation should be done so that the main load falls on the main axis.
Internal structure of the material
In addition to the strength characteristics and brand, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the particle material itself. According to GOST, wood chips have certain acceptable parameters; their length cannot be less than 5 cm, and their thickness cannot be less than 2 mm. If there are no large chips in the slab, but mostly dust or sawdust, then the actual structural properties of the material are reduced.
Acclimatization problems
Before use, it is necessary that they undergo acclimatization in the environment where they will be used in the future. This is due to the fact that wood material tends to change its volume depending on humidity and temperature. Structural changes in OSB are greater than in plywood - depending on the brand, the material can swell from water by 15 - 25%.
Oriented strand board is divided into four grades. OSB-1 is a general purpose material, designed for a humidity of no more than 65%, OSB-2 is used at a similar humidity level, but can withstand load-bearing loads, OSB-3 and OSB-4 are used in an environment with a humidity level of no more than 85%.
Acclimatization takes place within two days. The plates are installed in a vertical position, and slats are placed between the sheets to improve air circulation. According to GOST, it is recommended that the absolute humidity of products range from 2 to 12%. At the same time, in an unheated room, the humidity of the material can fluctuate at the level of 16 - 18%.
Particle boards must be protected from water even if OSB-3 and OSB-4 grades are used. Contact with liquid will cause deformation and swelling of the material. After installation, the slabs must be protected from moisture by facing materials (lining, siding, etc.). It is not recommended to treat the chipped surface with products containing a high water content. When using material for external walls, it is covered with a protective film so that the slabs are not saturated with moisture from the ground, and the sheets are laid on wooden pads. Also, using wooden slats, you need to create an air space between the film and the OSB, again this is done for air circulation.
The ends are the most vulnerable areas of OSB; during the acclimatization process, when the environment changes from dry to wet, they can swell; in this case, they must be sanded before installation.
Cutting
Before installation it is cut into sheets of different sizes. A hand or power tool can be used for this. When working, it is important to eliminate vibrations of the slab, so it is securely secured with clamps. To cut along a straight line, use guides made from straight boards. When sawing, it is important to use a corner so that the cut always goes perpendicular to the edge of the sheet.
When marking, you need to take into account the thickness of the cut; all tools have their own thickness. Before starting work, it is recommended to carry out a rough cutting of an unnecessary piece of material. Oriented strand material should be sawed at a moderate speed, the forward movement should be made smoothly. Marking is done using a ruler and a construction marker. Due to the large dimensions of the sheets, they are installed on a wooden stand; cutting in a vertical position is also possible. Let's look at the basic tools that can be used for cutting.
- - for sawing OSB, a tool with a fine tooth is used. For serious construction work, a hand saw is not suitable, since the cutting speed is limited by the physical effort of a person. It’s also not worth giving up on a hand saw completely; it can play a supporting role when cutting small elements. A hacksaw with a fine tooth is best for cutting OSB.
- - the tool can be hand-held or table-top. When working with the latter, the user himself pushes the plate onto the rotating disk. For sawing OSB, discs with a large number of teeth and hard alloy tips are suitable. Some circular saws have a connection for connecting a vacuum cleaner, which collects sawdust remaining from work.
- - an easy-to-use tool for sawing various materials. The cutting is carried out using the movement of the hacksaw blade. Some devices have a pendulum cutting function, when the blade moves not only up and down, but also in the direction of the cut. Operating the device is simplified with keyless blade replacement. Adjusting the angle of the sole helps make complex cuts in an inclined plane. For cutting large slabs, a jigsaw is less effective than a circular saw. The main inconvenience is the difficulty of making an even cut.
Some manufacturers produce blades specifically for cutting wood panels.
Firmly and firmly - types of fasteners
Oriented strand board can be used in a variety of construction applications. Depending on the application, the fastening elements vary. Commonly used are nails, self-tapping screws, screws and staples.
- - a fastening element in the form of a rod, most often used for fastening OSB to an external frame (during the construction of a frame house) and to roof sheathing. In this regard, nails have a serious advantage over self-tapping screws, since they keep the slabs from moving. The self-tapping screw will simply break off under the weight of the vertical slab, and the nail may bend, but will continue to hold the wall of the house. Screw nails work best when working with flexible materials. Ruff and ring nails are also used and are more common for roofing work. It must be remembered that it will be difficult to pull out such nails. In finishing work, hardware with a small head is used.
For fastening it is necessary to use galvanized fasteners so that it does not corrode.
- Screw connections- these include wood screws and . The fasteners are easy to tighten and unscrew without causing harm to the material. Screw connections are used when attaching OSB to concrete using dowels (laying a subfloor on a concrete screed). Screws and self-tapping screws provide better tear-off fixation, so they are more often used on horizontal joints.
- Staples- H-shaped fasteners are used to connect the edges of the particle board on the roof. Pneumatic or electric construction staplers are used to fasten surfaces.
- Bonding is not used as the main method of fixation; more often the application of adhesives is used as additional fastening when laying slabs on joists. Usually any wood glues are used; they are selected depending on the method of fastening and the humidity in the room.
Installation features
Installation differs depending on the type of work. General recommendations include the presence of an expansion joint and protection from contact with water.
Expansion (expansion) seam- this element is called differently, in fact it is a regular seam. As we know from the characteristics of the material, OSB boards tend to swell, change their shape and volume depending on temperature conditions. When installed without an expansion joint, waves and bumps appear on the surface of the slabs over time. The seam between the slabs should be 3 cm, next to the walls - 12 - 15 cm, to the foundation when installing the wall - 10 cm. If the length of the mounted plane exceeds 12 m, then make a gap of 25 cm.
When installing tongue-and-groove slabs, an expansion joint is formed itself due to the tongue-and-groove design.
An example of creating expansion joints when installing a floor
Now let's look at the installation features using specific examples.
- Installing a subfloor- oriented strand boards are laid for subsequent placement of laminate or parquet on them. Installation is carried out on logs or on a concrete screed. The thickness of the sheet when installed on a concrete screed is 8-10 mm; for logs, a slab of up to 22 mm will be required, depending on the distance between the supports. Fastening is carried out using nails or dowels with self-tapping screws; sometimes glue is used as an additional means of fixation.
- Floor on a strip foundation- in this case, installation is also carried out on logs made of timber, but the OSB side facing the ground is processed. It is possible to lay two layers of slabs; in this case, they are laid “staggered” so that the seams are not on top of each other.
Features of the installation of rough floor coverings made of particle board materials depend on the subsequent finishing treatment. For example, tiles will require a solid base, so it is better to use tongue-and-groove designs; when using rolled material (carpet), the gaps must be sealed using adhesive-sealant.
- - in the ceiling, the same schemes are used as when fixing the floor on joists, only beams are used for the ceiling. To ensure structural rigidity, the main axis must be perpendicular to the beams. The ceiling is covered with a waterproofing film to protect it from water, and special holes are made to drain liquid. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws, screws or nails.
Ceiling installation using OSB
- Wall installation produced on the racks of a frame house. The task of the particle board is not to clad the structure, but to give rigidity to the structure and create the power contour of the house. Fastening is carried out on three frame posts using screw nails, which are driven in around the perimeter every 15 cm, in the central part of the sheet - every 30 cm. When the distance between the posts is 50 cm, slabs with a thickness of 12 mm are used. The nail should be 2.5 times the thickness of the sheet itself and should be driven in at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. To prevent water from the house from condensing on the insulation and on the stove, the material is protected from the inside using
- The OSB is closed on the outside; it prevents moisture from precipitation from getting on the material, while allowing the wall of the house to “breathe”, organizing air exchange inside the wall. Steam escapes from the room unhindered, but moisture remains on the outside.
Multilayer wall of a frame house - “frame pie”
This structure is called the “pie” of a frame house. The main purpose of a multilayer wall is to protect OSB from condensation. Improper design leads to the development of mold and damage to the entire structure.
- - oriented slabs are the basis for subsequent fastening of the roof; the sheets are installed on the rafter system. The thickness of the sheet is selected depending on the pitch of the rafter leg. At 60 cm, it is optimal to use slabs with a thickness of 12 mm, at 80 cm - 15 - 18 mm, for larger rafter pitches, 22 mm OSB is used. Fastening is done using screw nails, since shear fastening is important on a pitched roof. The longitudinal axis of the slabs is located perpendicular to the rafter system. The layers of material are connected to each other in two ways: tongues or staples. If there is a tongue-and-groove connection, there is no need to make an expansion gap, otherwise the gap should be 3 mm, and fastening is done with H-shaped brackets.
When installing the roof, the slabs are laid with the rough side out to make it easier for builders to move
Finishing
After installation it needs final finishing. The material is suitable for wallpapering, puttying and painting. But for this the surface needs to be prepared.
- Sealing seams- it is not necessary to seal technological seams. In most cases, they are covered with laminate, tile or any other external covering. Sometimes sealing seams is even harmful. When using dry mixtures, the slab may become deformed during shrinkage. For some types of work, you will still have to treat the seams, for example, when painting, a gap of 3 cm will spoil the appearance of the room, so the gaps are closed using a joining mesh, which is attached to the putty.
- Grinding- unsanded OSB does not have a completely smooth texture. To coat with paints and varnishes, it is better to use sanded material or process the product yourself using a belt or eccentric sander. This procedure is especially relevant before treating the floor covering, as it allows you to get rid of unevenness.
A factory-ground plate has the letter Ш in its marking; unpolished products are designated by the letter combination НШ.
- Primer- the simplest and most universal way to prepare a surface for finishing. The primer is used before painting, before laying tiles, before using varnish, etc. For oriented strand board, primer mixtures provide protection from moisture and increase adhesion (adhesion to other materials). Antiseptic mixtures can also be used to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora; for subsequent use of alkyd paints, a primer is applied. Primer is used for filling.
- Reinforcement- application of reinforcing mesh for subsequent plastering, laying tiles or tiles.
Conclusion
OSB is a multifunctional material that can be used in various fields; the features of installation and processing depend on this, but there are also general principles for working with particle boards. Care must be taken to minimize contact with water. When installing walls, it is important to ensure the correct design of the walls to avoid the formation of condensation. When laying slabs, we must not forget about the need for expansion joints.
construction yard
OSB (OSB): features for working with slabs and installation recommendations
Oriented strand board or OSB is an indispensable attribute of any modern construction site. The material is used for both exterior and interior decoration; it can play the role of a load-bearing or connecting element, for example, in a roofing pie, or it can be an independent solution, say, as interior partitions or ceilings.
Which screws to use to fasten OSB depends on the design features of the structure and the location of direct installation of the particle boards.
The versatility of OSB is truly unmatched. It is used with equal success at any stages and cycles of construction.
In order to consider all possible options for fastening OSB boards, it will be convenient to divide their installation into several main groups:
- roofing;
- wall;
- floor.
Methods of fastening OSB for roofing work
Installing OSB boards as one of the layers of the roofing pie requires increased attention to the strength characteristics of both the material itself and the fasteners used in the work.
Considering the significant wind and snow loads on the roof plane, as well as the fact that roof structures are not a static, rigid structure, experts recommend paying attention to the following points:
- when laying OSB on the roof, priority should be given to special “ruff” or ring nails;
- phosphated self-tapping screws used in OSB installation are more fragile and have less strength when the structure moves;
- the final choice of which screws to attach the OSB to the frame is up to the craftsmen and depends on the climatic conditions in the construction area;
- the length of nails or self-tapping screws used in roofing work is calculated using a simple formula: OSB sheet thickness + minimum 40-45 mm for the fastener entry into the frame;
- that is, if OSB sizes of 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm are considered standard, then, therefore, the length of the screw will be in the range of 50-75 mm;
- The fastening map looks like this: along the rafters, the pitch of the screws is 300 mm, at the joints of the slabs - 150 mm, along the eaves or ridge cut - 100 mm and the distance from the edge of the sheet is at least 10 mm.
Conclusion! When installing OSB on the roof, preference should be given to special nails, due to their greater shear strength!
Vertical or wall method of OSB installation
What screws are used to secure OSB in case of wall mounting? The question has an unambiguous and very specific answer. If the recommended standard thickness used for vertical installation of OSB sheets is 12 mm, then, accordingly, adding to this value the minimum screw body required by the rules of 45-50 mm in a rack or frame, we get the answer -50-70 mm.
The fastening map is the same as the roofing one: in the middle of the sheet, the fasteners go in increments of 300 mm, at the joints of the plates the increment is reduced to 150 mm, the sides adjacent to the ceiling or floor are fastened at 100 mm intervals. The standard distance from the edge is 10 mm.
The choice of the shape of screws for vertical installation is determined by the need to hide the head flush with the plane of the wall. That is why, on the facades and external planes of buildings, self-tapping screws with a disc-shaped head are used, which, when tightened, not only sits in the pocket, but also does not chip the wood, maintaining the appearance of the wall.
Self-tapping screws for wall installation can be replaced with nails with spiral or ring threads. Their length is determined by multiplying the OSB thickness by a factor of 2.5. In our case, this is: 2.5 * 12 mm = 30 mm. This is the minimum allowed length.
Installation of OSB sheets in a horizontal plane: floor/ceiling
There is no need to dwell in detail on the choice of self-tapping screws for installing OSB on the ceiling. The pattern, number and size of self-tapping screws used for these purposes repeats the above examples exactly.
The choice of self-tapping screws and fastener pattern for floor installation of OSB are determined by the base on which the material is laid.
If it is a beam or slatted frame, then phosphated self-tapping screws with a body length of at least 50 mm and a countersunk head are the ideal choice.
When installing OSB on a rough, solid floor, galvanized self-tapping screws with double threads are suitable. The procedure for determining the optimal length is indicated above.
If you read the article carefully, you have already noticed that regardless of where the OSB is installed, the fastener map remains the same. Accordingly, the number of screws required for the job will generally be the same.
The average consumption of self-tapping screws when installing OSB is about 30 pcs. per m². Accordingly, to install a standard sheet you will need about 75-100 pieces. self-tapping screws
Now you know which screws to use to fasten OSB for high-quality and durable use of the boards in combination with other construction and finishing materials.
Advice! When purchasing, do not chase low prices and check the quality of the screws. There are enough cases of marriage. And there are no trifles at a construction site!