How to start laying siding step by step instructions. Siding, instructions for self-installation and necessary tools. Installation of corner profiles

The main and obvious advantage is the ease of installation of siding; having the necessary set of tools, anyone can install siding with their own hands, even a person who does not have professional training and experience.

Like all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract under the influence of temperature, for this reason, you should avoid tensioning the panels and do not nail them tightly onto the sheathing. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is enough.

When laying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When installing in frosty conditions, the gap should be approximately 12 mm.

Siding cutting can be carried out at temperatures above -10°. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.

It is better to fasten siding using galvanized short self-tapping screws that have a round head and do not have a drill. It is also possible to use tar nails. One more important point installation is that the siding should be attached exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.

For uneven walls, sheathing is required. If you perform the cladding without sheathing, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But even with perfect walls you can perform lathing - this will ensure ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on performance characteristics the buildings.

The sheathing for siding is made of wood or metal

Each has pros and cons. Metal lathing has a slightly higher cost, although only slightly. Wooden sheathing must be treated with a special compound. For horizontal siding perform vertical sheathing, and vice versa.

If you use a special tool to install siding, the job will be done faster and better. In addition to this, you will have to work:

Siding Installation Basics

Below is a plan of work that will need to be done to cover a house with siding:

Preparatory work

The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Next, you should seal all the cracks using polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

The walls should also be cleaned of all contaminants. A wooden house must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic; foam concrete walls are treated with a primer.

Sheathing installation work

Since siding is not attached to the walls, sheathing must be installed. For this they use metallic profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, galvanized profiles are used.

You can use a CD profile for drywall. When cladding a frame or wooden house, you can use wooden slats 60 by 40 mm, having a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the slats, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, make straight-line markings of the walls until a closed contour is obtained.

Now, the distance from the marking to the foundation is measured at the corners, after which another contour is drawn according to the minimum value. The next stage is the installation of vertical guides. They must fit snugly against the walls; to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

In areas of additional load, for example, at corners and near windows, additional guides will be required. There should be no connections between the vertical guides. This is done to provide ventilation, which prevents the growth of fungi.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Waterproofing must be done, unlike insulation.

For this purpose, a moisture- and wind-proof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the lathing must be done in two layers.

Installation of guide elements

Installation begins with drainage. It is a rigid structure, so it is easy to attach. After that, corner profiles are attached using self-tapping screws. The next stage is fastening the starting strip to the drainage along the markings. Along the perimeter of the windows, window strips or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer lower edge is slightly lower than the inner one.

The doorway is edged using J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously determined locations, use a level. Here you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation to avoid bending of the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is covered with a finishing strip.

Panel installation work

After installing all the guide elements, you can begin installing the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.

All other panels are fastened in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be overtightened or tightly secured; they should move a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished using a finishing strip.

The siding can be connected along its length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called “running” - i.e. make sure that the joints are not located along one vertical line.

It goes without saying that the H-rails will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem can be solved simply - either the H-rails are matched to the color of the siding, or the siding is installed “overlapping”. As already mentioned, this kind of finishing requires a “run-up” so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which the house is less often viewed.

This helps improve the visual perception of the building. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of efficiency, due to the greater number of trims. Of course, all this is relevant only when the siding strip is shorter than the length of the wall.

Do not cut the siding ahead of time. It is more convenient to trim during the installation process.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies

Many people cannot decide how to improve the appearance of their home. For this reason, this material describes how to decorate a house using best material for performing such work as facing installation - siding. Video instructions are attached.

There is nothing difficult in the process of installing siding; you just need to watch the video and install everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it’s worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:

1. Surface preparation.

Insulation

Place insulation boards on the surface of the walls.

The space between the slats should not be completely filled with insulation; there should be at least minimum distance, for ventilation.

Attaching siding (installation is carried out from bottom to top!)

Determine the lower level of the siding plates.

Mark the lower level using twine or chalk.

Install the first row of planks along the marking line.

Install external or internal corners.

Install trim strips on window and door openings.

How to calculate siding for a house

You have decided to cover your house with siding, but the question arises - how to calculate the siding for the house? Yes, very simple! Since siding is a finishing material with clear geometric dimensions and a specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².

To begin with, during the calculation process you will have to use the following items:

• tape measure - to take initial measurements;
• a leaf and a pencil - for sketching sketches;
• calculator - for calculations.

The amount of siding for cladding the building is calculated in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.

Before you start making calculations, you should decide on the exact value of the area to be covered. To complete these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will later measure.

Important point: if the building that needs to be faced has complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to the dimensions, the placement of the panels should also be indicated.

Thus, you create a foundation for correct use material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and siding shortages.

The following formula will help you with your calculations:

Sр = Sst – So

where Sр is the calculated area, Sst is the area of ​​the walls, So is the area of ​​windows and doors.

Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:

where Sc is the siding area, and % is unused material.

The amount of waste is taken to be 7-10% in the case of cladding rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% if trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the greater the percentage of waste generated.

The next stage is dividing the resulting area Sc by the usable area of ​​one strip of siding. For example, a strip of siding has a total area of ​​0.89 m², then its useful area is approximately 0.777 m2.

By the way, the mathematical approach for calculation is most often used by sellers, due to the fact that their responsibilities include selling as much material as possible.

To avoid possible inaccuracies, it would be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately describe detailed location each strip of siding on a specific wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get a clear installation diagram.

This calculation method uses the following formula:

where N – total panels, Sp – useful area of ​​one panel, H – height of the building.

Removing shutters, grilles, drainpipes and other fixtures from the surface on which the siding will be installed.

Installation of sheathing for siding. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, since they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical slats are mounted at fixed intervals of 30-40 cm.

Covering a house with siding photo

In this material, you are presented with examples of how to cover a house with siding - photos of buildings, exterior finishing which is made using classic vinyl siding, wood siding and facade panels. If you are choosing finishing materials for your home, then here you will find a lot of information for yourself!

Of all possible ways cladding of cottages has gained the greatest popularity: it protects walls from adverse weather conditions, is durable, and gives the facades individuality.

Covering a house with siding is easy if you follow the rules. The article provides step-by-step instructions for cladding different types siding, including metal siding.

Step 1: choosing siding

There are many types of this popular finishing material. Siding can be:

• Metal - steel and aluminum coated with pural or PVC are produced in RAL colors, with different panel thicknesses, for external cladding you need to choose panels with a thickness of 0.7 mm.
• Vinyl PVC, various widths, colors and imitation various materials(wood, brick, wild stone).
• Acrylic - also differs in color and texture, is considered higher quality and more durable than vinyl, but also costs more.
• Fiber cement is durable, resistant to temperature changes and UV radiation, but due to its greater weight it requires a solid base (brick, blocks).
• Wood - lining or also varieties of siding, an environmentally friendly, but less durable type of finishing that requires regular treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

When considering the cost of panels, homeowners often choose cheaper vinyl, although acrylic siding is not much more expensive and has better characteristics: it does not fade in light, is more resistant to temperature changes, and is resistant to mechanical damage.

Let us especially focus on light fastness. In terms of this indicator, vinyl is inferior to all competitors; in addition, some unscrupulous manufacturers skimp on expensive dyes; as a result, after a couple of years, the panels fade, often unevenly - in spots.

TIP: cladding walls better with panels pastel shade and white trim (for flashings, edgings, soffits, ebbs).

Good quality panels have the following characteristics:

1. Consistent geometry in thickness, length, width.
2. Uniform coloring without spots or streaks.
3. Integrity - panels should not have chips, cracks, or stains.
4. Strength - all elements must be flexible and durable.
5. Certificate of conformity.

The most popular products are from domestic vinyl siding manufacturers:

• Dock.
• Northside.
• Holzplast.AltaProfile.
• Grand Line.

At the time of buying quality material a conscientious seller will include the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Step 2: Calculate material requirements

Before purchasing, you need to determine the required amount of cladding materials. To do this, you will need to draw diagrams of all facades with the exact location of windows and doors, architectural elements and cornices, with dimensions and heights. If you plan to insulate the house simultaneously with the cladding, you need to add an allowance for the thickness of the insulation. On the diagram you need to mark areas with different colors.

Next, using geometry for grade 5 high school The area of ​​walls of different colors for each facade is calculated, then the areas are added up. At large quantities window and doorways their area is subtracted from total area cladding.

Except wall panels, additional elements will be required for cladding:

• The starting bar is along the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors.
• Finishing strip around the perimeter of the house, taking into account the angle of the roof.
• Connecting profile H-profile for connecting base panels when the length is insufficient.
• Corner external profile - according to the number of external corners of the house.
• Angular internal profile - if there are such angles in the plan.
• Soffit is a profile for lining cornices and gables, produced with perforation for ventilating the roof insulation and without perforation.
• Base strip – provides protection for the protrusion of the base relative to the walls, equal in length to the starting strip.
• Low tide - along the length of the window openings.
• Wide J-profile for finishing slopes of windows and doors.
• Suspended profile - to protect the upper slope of windows and doors.
• The narrow J-profile is universal.
• Wind board for decorating the end of the cornice.

To hang the panels you will need a frame. The frame can be made of wooden beams if you plan to line it with vinyl, acrylic or wood siding, or from galvanized profiles for metal or fiber cement siding.

When finishing a wooden house, the best option is a wooden frame; for buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is better to choose metal, since the service life of the wooden frame is less than the service life of the walls and finishing profile.

To protect walls from wood materials When facing, it is necessary to perform wind and moisture insulation from a special film or PVC membrane, this will increase the durability of the building.

If you need to insulate a house, you must simultaneously purchase the appropriate materials:

• Insulation – polystyrene foam, mineral wool slabs or swearing.
• Adhesive composition for temporary fixation of slabs or adhesive foam.
• Dowel screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head – 5-6 pcs. per 1 m2.
• A vapor barrier film mounted between the wall and the insulation.
• Wind and moisture barrier film or superdiffusion membrane mounted with outside thermal insulation.
• Self-tapping screws.

If you plan to clad an already insulated house, you need dowel screws with a length that ensures fastening of the frame beams into the wall thickness of at least 50-70 mm.

For wooden frame without insulation, choose bars measuring 50x50 mm; when installing insulation at the same time, the thickness of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the insulation; it is possible to lay the insulation and construct the frame in two layers, in this case the thickness of the beam will correspond to the thickness of each layer of insulation. The timber is mounted on the walls with a spacing of 30-40 cm. To calculate the need for lumber, it is better to first draw a second diagram in accordance with the facade.

For counter-lattice (distance strips) that provide a ventilated gap between the wall/insulation and the cladding, a 40x30 mm beam is needed.

IMPORTANT: before installation, treat all lumber with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

For work you will need the following tools:

• Plumb.
• Building level.
• Roulette.
• Cord or twine.
• Hammer.
• Drill with attachments or screwdriver.
• Knife, scissors, hacksaw or jigsaw.

Don't forget about the funds personal protection: strong gloves and safety glasses; You will also need a stepladder and scaffolding if the house is more than 4 meters high.

Step 3: preparing the base

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the walls: remove the drainage system, lighting fixtures and cables, antennas, clean them, and level the walls if necessary. The preparation method depends on the material of the walls of the house.

Preparation of wooden walls:

• Cleaning from old paint, assessment of wood condition.
• If there is damage by fungus, mold, or insects, treat the wood with special deep penetration compounds.
• Grinding.
• Dust removal.
• Caulking of inter-crown seams.
• Impregnation with fire retardant 2-3 times on a dry base.
• Impregnation with antiseptic 2-3 times.
• Primer.
• Application of a protective composition.

Preparing brick or block walls:

• Cleaning from paint layers, stains, efflorescence, oil stains, and solution.
• Leveling walls if there are depressions larger than 3 cm.
• With simultaneous insulation - an adhesive primer.

Step 4: facing work

The work begins with markings in kind, a diagram previously drawn on paper.

PLEASE ATTENTION: A significant difference in installing insulation with a metal frame: frame holders are mounted on the walls, then insulation is performed by pinning a heat insulator and a moisture-proof film onto the holders, then load-bearing profiles are mounted.

Corner vertical profiles are installed first metal frame or wooden sheathing. These elements must be installed with special care. Irregularities in the walls are leveled by installing metal profiles at a distance from the surface or by laying bosses under wooden beam. Control the geometry with a level or plumb line.

After installing the corner elements, to simplify the work on the basement part of the walls, you need to pull the cord strictly horizontally.

Next, install the lower and upper horizontal profiles of the frame, then all the vertical ones. Fasten the holders drainage system and lighting. The insulation is installed and covered with a moisture- and wind-proof membrane, which is stapled to the wooden sheathing. The counter-lattice beam is fastened to create a ventilated gap.

After installing the frame, a starting profile is installed. The accuracy of the cladding largely depends on the quality of installation of the starting strip. Then comes the installation of the finishing profile, connecting H-profiles, J-profiles for fastening the strips around window and door openings.

Basic installation rules:

1. Installation of planks is carried out from bottom to top.
2. Do not tighten the self-tapping screw all the way; there should be a gap of 1 mm.
3. When installing cladding in winter, provide a gap for thermal expansion of the materials; the higher the summer climatic temperatures, the larger it is.

Step 5: final

After completion of the cladding, a drainage system, lighting equipment, antennas, and external air conditioning units are installed.

Conclusion

By adhering to these rules and manufacturers' instructions, you can special effort give your home a presentable appearance, protect walls from bad weather and create a comfortable indoor microclimate. Of particular importance are preparatory work, high-quality preparation will allow you to quickly and professionally install the cladding.

Many people will be able to cover a building with vinyl siding even if they have superficial construction skills and know the technology for installing this material. It’s not for nothing that this method of decoration leads among others, and not only due to its aesthetic and attractive appearance, low cost, long service life, and ease of installation.

Siding Installation Tools

For installation work facing material You will need the following equipment:

• A knife for cutting siding is used in the following way: first, a strip is drawn on the panel, along which it is bent and unbent several times, then broken. You can also cut material with a grinder, but only at low power
• Jigsaw
• Drill or hammer drill
• Screwdriver
• Level
• Roulette
• Bulgarian
• Hammer
• Marker or chalk for marking

Selection and calculation of component materials

Manufacturers of vinyl siding also produce all the necessary components for its installation:

• External and internal corners for cladding the corners of a house with a standard length of 3 m. For calculation required quantity the total footage around the perimeter of the building corners is measured and calculated, which is divided by 3. It is better not to use short trims so as not to spoil the appearance of the building
• Starting bar has a length of 3.8 m and is calculated by subtracting the length of the doorways from the perimeter of the house
• The J-profile will be needed in places where extensions are attached to the building (length 3.8 m)
• Window frame(length 3 m), calculated by summing the perimeters of window openings
• Window sills are installed if necessary
• The finishing strip connects the roof eaves to the house
• The H-profile closes the joining gaps between the siding strips, is installed vertically, calculated by dividing the building perimeter by the length of the siding panel
• The drain strip is installed under the window openings
• The platband is mounted as a covering for any openings that are flush with the walls

You will also need galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25-30 cm long. Their number is calculated based on the area of ​​the walls: 20 pcs per 1 m².

Component materials for vinyl siding

Calculation of the amount of siding

Two options are used:

• The area of ​​the walls of the house is calculated, from which the areas of all openings are subtracted. The resulting value must be divided by the area of ​​one siding panel
• A drawing of the house is made and the required number of planks is calculated individually. This method is more economical, since it is immediately clear where will he go installation of scraps

Calculation of wall area for subsequent calculation of siding

Today, the market offers a large assortment of siding from different companies. One of the popular Russian companies is Grand Line. Vinyl is different high quality. This material is highly resistant to impact as well as UV radiation.

Siding from the Nordside company is gaining increasing popularity. Read more about Northside siding. The material of this company has a wide range of colors. Northside siding does not collapse, is not affected by moisture, does not rot, does not rust, and the paint does not fade.

Preparatory stage

The advantage of this type of material is that it does not require pre-leveling walls It is enough just to clean the surface from dirt or previous cladding, remove protruding elements (plinths, trim, gutters, etc.).

If cracks are found on the surface of the walls, they are repaired cement mortar to prevent moisture accumulation in winter period.

Important! Wooden walls are cleaned of mold and fungi and treated with deep penetration primer and an antiseptic.

The surface on which the facing material is installed must be absolutely dry; this requirement is set by the siding installation technology.

Installing sheathing under siding

The lathing is made according to the principle:

1. When laying siding horizontally, wooden or aluminum profile stuffed vertically
2. Wooden blocks should have a cross-section of 20-40 mm. Lathing made of galvanized profile will cost 30% more, but it will be more reliable and durable
3. The distance between the profile (bars) should be 30-40 cm. They are set to the level
4. First, a guide is placed on the left corner of the wall, then a bearing horizontal one is placed at the bottom, and the next vertical one is in the right corner. All openings are additionally tied
5. When making the sheathing, the location of drains, lamps and other communications is taken into account. To do this, additional guides are mounted on the sheathing.
6. The frame is attached to the wall using dowels (if the walls are made of brick, shell), self-tapping screws (wooden surfaces)

Carrying out insulation and waterproofing measures

Insulation (foam, mineral wool) fits into the crate. The main thing to consider is that you need to leave space for a ventilated space between the wall surface and the facing material to prevent rotting processes.

The insulation is covered on top with a water barrier, installed vertically or horizontally with an overlap of 10 cm. The waterproofing is attached to the wooden sheathing with a stapler. The joints can be sealed with tape.

After carrying out heat and waterproofing measures, a frame is made directly under the siding. The principle of the lathing remains the same: a metal profile or wooden slats are packed in increments of 30-40 cm, and all openings are additionally framed.

Installation instructions for vinyl siding

Installation of vinyl siding involves the following sequence:

1. Installation of corner strips
2. Attaching the starting bar
3. Installation of J-profile as finishing edges of siding
4. Trim around window openings
5. Facing siding panels
6. Installing the finishing strip

The installation of the starting bar takes place around the perimeter of the structure; it is important to set it carefully. Fastening with self-tapping screws is used in increments of 25-30 cm, and perpendicular to the surface. The fastener is screwed strictly into the middle of the oval-shaped hole to prevent bending of the material. The main thing is that the self-tapping screw does not go all the way into the strip, that is, there is a gap of 1 mm between its head and the siding (for convenience, you can apply a coin). In the middle of the joining of two starting strips, a gap of 5-7 mm is required.

Window and door openings located in the same plane as the wall are sheathed with a wide J-profile (platband), into which the siding is subsequently inserted.

If there are slopes, then decoration is reduced to finishing with siding using an angular profile. Moreover, first the lower slope is lined (if there is no ebb), then the side slopes with a shift towards the center of the opening to prevent the upper panel from coming out of grip in the winter, and finally the upper one.

When installing, the siding panels must fit into the starter strip and snap into place.. Then only the material is fixed with hardware. Fastening of the facing material occurs under constant level checking. For convenience, you can pull the rope.

The finishing strip is attached at the top under the roof itself, further from it the value is measured to the last siding panel. The adjusted strip is bent in an arc and placed under the finishing panel.

Vinyl siding installation cost

? The cost of installation work on siding depends on the following factors:

• Prices for raw materials, including the manufacture of lathing, insulation, waterproofing, type of fasteners
• Number of door and window openings
• Depending on the building material (brick, wood)
• With or without insulation

Video about installing vinyl siding

Vinyl siding installation technology.

Vinyl siding installation. Installation of vertical and horizontal siding, installation of soffit.

How to install vinyl siding yourself.

Sheath the house siding even a beginner can do it. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is done more than simply.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Vinyl siding has a significant thermal expansion. Don't fasten siding through vinyl ! For fastening, there are special elongated oval holes on its mounting plate. Fastening horizontal elements siding installed in the center of the holes. Fastening of all vertical elements siding is also made in the center of the holes, except for the first one. The first nail or screw is installed to the top edge of the hole at the top of the panel siding . It turns out that the vertical panel will hang on this screw, and the remaining fasteners will secure its position.

Siding you need to attach it to the sheathing or wall, but do not pull the canvas to it, leaving a gap of 1 mm. Otherwise, on a hot sunny day, the panel will lengthen and, pressed tightly against the sheathing or wall, will turn into an “accordion”, and on a frosty winter night, on the contrary, it will shrink and burst. Not tight fasteners allow siding perform thermal compression-extension without negative consequences. For the same reason, do not fasten the panels with screwed in at an angle or with bent fasteners. They stretch the panel and interfere with its temperature movement. If it is impossible to install the fastener in the center of the mounting hole, increase the length of the hole with a notch or any other available tool.

Sometimes there is no other way to attach short cut panels than to secure it through the vinyl. In this case, make a hole with a notch in the upper part of the panel and secure it.

At connect the latch and fasten the siding without tension. Otherwise, you will not only stretch the panel profile and make it unattractive, but also increase friction in the lock and at the same time jam the panel at the fastening point. All this will prevent thermal expansion of both the panel being fixed and the already fixed panel.

When entering horizontal siding in any adjacent profile, for example, in a corner, J or H-profile, leave a gap of approximately 6 mm between the inserted panel and the bottom of the gutter of the receiving profile, and for winter installation - 9 mm. Otherwise, even properly secured siding on a hot sunny day will lengthen, rest its ends against the bottom of the gutters and bend in waves, or bend the receiving profile. When installing vertical panels and accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3 mm at the top and about 6 mm at the bottom. Do not ignore the fastening part of the siding panel. If you see that with thermal expansion of the panels, the fastening parts various panels may rest against each other, then trim them.

Use galvanized screws for fastening. Vinyl siding It lasts 50 years, during which time the corroding fasteners will rust and dirty stains will appear. If corrosive fasteners are initially used and correct installation, the siding sheathing will remain beautiful for its entire service life. For fastening siding use self-tapping screws with a thickness of about 3 mm and a head diameter of at least 8 mm. The installation step of the fasteners is equal to the step of the sheathing and is 40 cm.

In other words, when DIY vinyl siding installation secure it so that nothing interferes with its natural movement as a result of temperature changes. Siding panels must move freely due to thermal contraction and expansion, without resting against anything. This is the main installation rule.

Do not push the screws close to the panel. Leave a gap of approximately 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the siding panel. The panel should be secured, but not tightened. During installation, insert the lock hook into the mating part without tensioning the panel.

Vertical siding Horizontal siding Install fasteners in the center of the holes. One incorrectly installed fastener can stop thermal expansion and cause the panel to warp. The first fastener for a vertical panel is placed at the edge of the hole, the rest in the center.

Setting up starting strips When installing the starting strips, leave a gap of 12 mm between them. When joining wall panels “overlapping”, trim the fastening parts so that after installation there is a gap of 12 mm between them.

Inserting horizontal siding into the adjacent profile and installing vertical panels When inserting horizontal siding into an adjacent profile, leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the panel and the gutter of the adjacent profile. When installing vertical panels or accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3-4 mm at the top, and about 6-8 mm at the bottom.

WALL PREPARATION

Before installation siding need to finish everything facade works, caulk the seams in the chopped walls, remove unnecessary nails and other fasteners, install thermal insulation (if provided for by the project). On the walls being repaired, trims should be removed from window and door openings, rotten boards should be replaced, and all loose structures should be secured.
On frame walls siding can be attached directly to the wall, provided that the wall and corners are level. On stone, block and uneven wooden walls The siding is attached to the leveling sheathing. Siding installation not necessarily done on vertical surfaces. The wall must be flat over the entire plane: without bulges and without “screws”. You can also cover inclined surfaces with siding, but it’s easier to work with vertical ones.

Options for preparing walls for siding installation

When constructing the sheathing, use dry wood (humidity - 12–14%), otherwise the sheathing will shrink when it dries, and so will the siding. Bars with a cross section of 25 (30, 40, 50) x 60 mm or galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width are used, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Wide laths prevent fasteners from falling through any placement of the siding panel.

The sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the walls being tiled, including roof gables and along the perimeter of windows, doors, and other openings and openings. It is better not to use lower horizontal perimeter gratings; they interfere with air exchange under the siding sheathing. The remaining laths are for horizontal siding installation are installed vertically on the wall, and for vertical installation of siding, respectively - horizontally. Keep the distance between the slats approximately 40 cm. The slats should be attached to the wall in increments of 40 cm.

The work begins with the installation of corner gratings. Then the cords are pulled between them and the rest of the laths are stuffed. The distance from the slats to the wall is adjusted by direct hangers, but other fastening methods can be used, for example, wooden leveling pads. The verticality and evenness of the sheathing is controlled by a building level (alcohol or laser), or a plumb line and cords. If the cladding is carried out on inclined surfaces, then the evenness of the installation of the laths is controlled by a long, even strip or cords.

Installation of laths for siding installation

It is convenient to fasten and level wooden and galvanized slats with straight hangers.

Fastening direct hangers

Attach all straight hangers to the wall, one above the other, using a plumb line. Insert the lath into them. Bend the hangers and secure the lath in the upper hanger. Align the lath vertically and secure it in the lower hanger. Secure the lath to all hangers. Bend or break off the protruding ends of the hangers.

INSTALLATION OF HORIZONTAL SHIRTING

1. Setting up starting strips
Using a water level, we find the lowest corner and, stepping back 5 cm, we go around the perimeter of the house with a water level, marking the line for installing the starting strips with nails driven shallowly into the corners. They must arrive at the same point from where they started. We stretch the cords between the driven nails.

Marking the line for installing starting strips	Marking the location of the nail strips
Installing starter strips along cords

We attach a corner profile to each corner of the house siding and mark on the sheathing the places where the edges of the nail strips of the corner profile will be located. Departing from these marks horizontally 6 mm along a cord stretched between the nails, we install the profiles of the starting strips on the sheathing. It is necessary to leave a gap of 10–12 mm between the starting strips. The profiles of the starting strips should not rest against the nail strip of the corner profile and each of the profiles should not rest against another similar profile. Then, during thermal elongation, they will not receive expansion, therefore, the siding attached to them will not bend.

You can do it differently. Do not retreat the starting strip from the nail strip of the corner profile, but in this case it will be necessary to trim the nail strip of the corner profile so that during thermal elongation it does not rest against the starting profile and does not bend the corner profile.

Strictly ensure that the starting strips are installed horizontally! Deviation from the horizon will lead to skew of ordinary siding panels. To level it, in addition to trimming the ends of the panels, you will also have to tension siding, and this is not acceptable. It will warp later. Don't waste time on correct installation sheathing and starting strips.

Before installing external and internal corner profiles, you should install cornice soffits or mark their installation location.

If the length of the corner profile exceeds the height of the wall being tiled, measure on the profile the required length equal to the height of the corner plus 3 mm. With the profile against the corner of the house and 3mm away from the roof eaves or soffits, install the fastener at the top of the topmost nail hole on either side of the corner. The part will hang vertically on these two nails and be 3 mm from the roof eaves, and its lower end will be 6 mm lower than the starting profile. When cladding houses with protruding plinths or when the extension of the corner profile will be hampered by installed structures, for example, when cladding verandas - floors, the profiles are trimmed and made shorter than required by the corner being tiled. In this case, a gap of 3 mm is left in the upper part of the corner profile between the profile and the cornice, and the bottom is trimmed, it should not reach the obstacle (existing floor or plinth) by 6 mm. After checking the verticality of the corner profile, install the remaining fasteners at the centers of the nail holes at a distance of 25 to 40 cm from each other. Don't fasten too tightly.

Installation procedure for external corner profiles

If the height of the wall corner is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, join the two profiles. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height. To do this, on the upper corner profile, use metal scissors to cut off the nail strip along with the shaped elements of the profile, leaving only two flat strips that form the corner. First, install the lower corner profile, then, on top of it, the upper one. The result is a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the gap between the nail strips of the profiles must be at least 9 mm, and the overlap of the panels must be at least 25 mm.

Instead of a corner profile, you can line the corner of the wall with two J-profiles. However, the corner will be less airtight. Therefore, the corner covered with J-profiles must first be protected by a strip of rolled waterproofing.

3. Installation of internal corner profiles
This is done in the same way as installing external corner profiles. The profile is cut to the required length, leaving 3 mm for the temperature gap between the end of the corner profile and the cornice or soffit. The lower edge of the corner elements is lowered 6 mm below the level of the lower edge of the starting strip. Or, on the contrary, it rises by 6 mm if there is a floor or other obstacle below that interferes with the thermal expansion of the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles
Joining two corner profiles

The height of the corner is joined with an overlap in the same way as in the outer corners. When installing corner profiles, you must leave a gap of at least 9 mm between the nail strips and ensure that the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fastening is carried out in increments of approximately 40 mm in the center of the holes, the upper fastening is carried out to the upper edge of the hole.
Internal corners can be worked, just like external ones. budget option, from two and even from one J-profile.

4. Installation of trim around windows and doors

Installing trim around windows

Window and door blocks those installed in the same plane with the wall or protruding from the wall are lined with J-profiles or platbands. Before installing window and door frames, the openings are protected with waterproofing: aprons made of roofing tin, aluminum foil or roll bitumen waterproofing.

Prepare two trims for the top and bottom of the opening and two trims for the sides. The length of all elements is made equal to the height and width of the opening, respectively, plus two heights of the vinyl profiles used. At the top profile, cuts are made on both sides equal to the height of the profiles used. At the point of the cut, the vinyl bends down, forming “tongues.” These bent pieces of vinyl will drain water from the top to the side profiles. The side profiles are inserted into the cut out part of the top profile so that the tongue is inside them. To do this, you need to cut out pieces of vinyl at the top of the side trims.

The lower casing is inserted inside the side profiles. To do this, tongues are also cut out in the side profiles, and “windows” are cut out in the bottom profiles, equal to the height of the inserted profile. The tongues of the side profiles are folded onto the lower profile, covering the cut area of ​​the lower profile with them and pressed against the protruding window. If the window is made flush with the wall, the “tongues” are folded inside the lower profile or cut off.

Window and door blocks installed in a wall niche are lined with near-window profiles. The near-window profile is essentially a modernized platband, in which a shelf has been added to cover the slopes of the wall niche. Therefore, the installation of the near-window profile is carried out according to the same rules as the platband. The shelves of the near-window profile covering the slopes are cut to the depth of the niche and inserted into pre-installed Holzplast finishing profiles.

Cladding of window blocks installed in a wall niche
Installation of window profile

5. Installation of the first panel
Hook bottom part row panel into the lock of the starting strip and attach its upper part to the sheathing without tension. Start installation from the back facade of the house, you will gain experience there. In addition, extending the panels overlapping along their length, when installing from the rear corners of the facades, makes the joint less noticeable.

Installing the first panel

In winter DIY vinyl siding installation The extension of a solid panel can be 18 mm. Leave gaps for thermal expansion. At summer installation siding must also leave gaps. In the sun, the siding will still gain some length, but in winter it will become shorter and, if the gap is too large, it may come out of the gutter of the adjacent profile. In other words, leave gaps in the adjacent profiles of 6–9 mm. When installing in hot weather - 6, and in cold weather - 9 mm. At temperatures below -20°C, do not install siding. Please note that the gap sizes are indicated for a solid siding panel. A short panel cut to length will not have such an increase in length and, if necessary, the gaps for thermal expansion can be left smaller.

Joining siding along the length

Siding can be joined along its length in two ways: overlapping and using an H-profile. For overlapping siding panels, the nail and locking parts are trimmed so that the overlap of the panels is approximately 25 mm.

When installing the H-profile, its upper part is lowered below the soffit or cornice by 3 mm to provide a temperature gap so that when expanded, the panel has freedom to move upward and does not rest against the roof elements. At the bottom, the H-profile is lowered below the lower limit of the starting profiles by 6 mm. If there is a structural restriction at the bottom of the H-profile (protruding plinth, porch, floor, etc.) that prevents its downward thermal expansion, then a gap of 6 mm should be left between the lower end of the profile and the restriction.

Increasing the length of the H-profile is done by overlapping joining. The joining is structurally reminiscent of the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one. The placement of the H-profile on the wall must be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of the row panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, fits organically into the overall picture of the siding sheathing.

6. Installation of subsequent panels
Check the level of horizontal installation of every third row. Having reached the bottom of the window opening with the installation of row panels, you need to trim the siding mounted under the opening to the width of the window opening plus two sizes of horizontal temperature gaps (a gap of 6 mm in each direction). The cut ends of the siding will fit into the receiving gutter of the window profile or casing and will have room for thermal expansion. The cutout depth of the row panel should provide a minimum (1–2 mm) vertical temperature gap between the panel and the receiving gutter of the lower frame of the opening.

Siding cut under and above the window so that when the side trims or near-window profiles enter the gutters, a gap of 6 mm is obtained between the cut ends and the bottom of the gutters of the side profiles.

Between siding And vertical surfaces you need to leave a gap of 3 mm. Since the nail strip on the bottom panel and the lock on the panel above the window will be cut off when marking the siding, you need to punch through and bend the hooks on the siding. Install the finishing profile into the lower and upper window profiles. During installation, insert the siding panel into the finishing profile and hook it to it. If platbands are used as window cladding, hook the siding panel directly to them. Finishing profiles are not needed in this case.

Depending on the depth of siding trimming, install the finishing profile using leveling pads from siding scraps or without them.

Fastening the row panel to the lower and upper trim of the window is ensured by “hooks” that need to be made with a punch (punch) onto the panel cutout. Siding trimming can be done at different depths, depending on the height of the window on the facade, therefore, when using near-window profiles for planar alignment siding, V bottom trim opening, a finishing profile is additionally installed.

7. Installing siding under the roof eaves
The final siding panel under the roof eaves is made from regular siding panel. To do this, a finishing or J-profile or complexes of J and finishing profiles, or internal corner and finishing profiles are mounted under the roof eaves.

Installing siding under the roof eaves

Install a system of J and finishing profiles under the cornice, either only J or a finishing profile with leveling pads. If the cornice will be sheathed with soffits, then install the system from the profile internal corner and finishing profile. After marking and cutting the siding panel, finish the sheathing.

Installing siding under eaves covered with soffits

Measure the distance m (from the lock to the bottom of the gutter of the under-eaves profile minus 3 mm), transfer this distance to the solid siding panel. Cut it to length. Make hooks on it and install the siding panel, snapping the bottom lock into place.
In several places along the length of the siding, the distance from the lock of the penultimate row panel to the bottom of the gutter of the final profile is measured. A vertical temperature allowance of 1–2 mm is subtracted from the resulting dimensions. The results of measurements and calculations are transferred to the entire panel, from which the upper locking part is cut off. On the top of the cut siding, “hooks” are punched at approximately 20 cm intervals and folded over to the front side. Siding cut to height with hooks is inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel and inserted with the upper part into the final profiles. An upward motion snaps the siding into the locks.

8.Installation siding to the pediment
Roof gables are sheathed around the perimeter with a J-profile or internal corner profile. They are fastened according to the rules for installing vertical elements, i.e. the upper fastener is installed to the upper edge of the nail hole, the rest - in the middle of the holes.

Installing siding on the gable

Installation of ordinary siding panels is done in the same way as on walls, with trimming the edges of the receiving profiles entering the gutter. Remember to leave a gap of 6 mm between the siding and the bottom of the gutter (6 mm in summer and 9 mm in winter). The topmost siding panel is secured to the center of the top with a stainless nail or self-tapping screw through the vinyl. This is the only place where fastening is allowed.

This manual provides all necessary information regarding the installation of Metal Profile siding. Before you begin, please read these instructions carefully.

ATTENTION! A mandatory condition for providing a guarantee is compliance with the rules of transportation, storage, loading, unloading and installation!

Transportation

• Siding panels must be loaded onto a flat, solid base of the body. The length of the body should not be less than the length of the packs with siding.
• During transportation, it is necessary to ensure that the products are protected from movement and mechanical damage.
• Recommended speed vehicle- up to 80 km/h. It is necessary to avoid sudden acceleration and braking.

Loading and unloading, storage

• Loading and unloading of siding should be carried out using lifting equipment with soft slings, and for bundles longer than 5 meters - using traverses.
• When unloading manually, it is necessary to involve a sufficient number of workers (at the rate of 1 person per 1.5-2 m of sheet), but not less than 2 people.
• The sheets must be lifted and moved carefully in the position as in the figure, avoiding strong bends.
• It is prohibited to throw sheets or drag them.
• Storage conditions when exposed to climatic factors must comply with conditions 3 according to GOST 15150 (unheated rooms without direct impact on the profiles sun rays and rain).
• Packs of siding in the original packaging must be laid on level ground on 50x150 mm beams with a step of 0.5 m in one row.
• When storing for more than 1 month, it is necessary to open the packaging film on each end side of the packs to ensure ventilation.

Required tools and hardware

For work you will need: a screwdriver, a set of attachments, a tape measure, a level, a plumb bob, a square, metal scissors (manual or electric), a hacksaw or Circular Saw with a disk for cutting metal, drill (perforator), hammer (mallet), knife for thermal insulation, gloves, marker, technical documentation (ATR, PPR).

Tools and Fasteners

	Self-tapping screw ∅4.2x16 galvanized with a press washer. For fastening shaped elements to the cladding, for fastening siding.
	Steel rivets. To connect elements load-bearing frame among themselves, façade products.
Plumb	Roulette	Screwdriver	Level
Square	Metal scissors	Hacksaw for metal	Circular Saw
	Drill attachment and set of replacement knives. Gives regular drill function of electric cutting shears for cutting steel up to 0.8 mm.
	Cutting shears for metal and a set of replacement knives. For manual cutting steel up to 0.6 mm.
	During work, it is necessary to comply with the current safety and labor protection regulations.
	ATTENTION! FORBIDDEN! When using an angle grinder (grinder), the polymer and zinc coating of the siding is damaged, which can lead to accelerated corrosion.

Types of siding

Siding - decorative metal panels intended for cladding facades and lining cornices. It is possible to produce three types of profiles:

“Shipboard”, “Lbrus”, “Woodstock®”, as well as “Lbrus” soffits.
The panel is made of thin-sheet galvanized steel with polymer coating various colors, including imitation of various natural materials.

“Shipboard” siding is the classic, most popular siding profile. Thanks to its shape, it is easy to install and convenient to use. Most often used for wall cladding. Source material: rolled galvanized steel with polymer coating.

Siding "Lbrus". The groove on the siding resembles the shape of a famous mountain, and the letter “L” stands for Light, emphasizing the advantage of steel imitation timber over its wooden counterpart in terms of weight and ease of installation. It is used as wall cladding (in a vertical or horizontal arrangement) and lining the eaves of buildings when completing roofs.

Steel siding Woodstock®-28x330, having all the advantages of steel siding, is distinguished by its original shape and attractive appearance, imitating a rounded log. Woodstock® will give your home the look of a natural log house and create a feeling of coziness and comfort. Woodstock® from Metal Profile accurately imitates the profile of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that completely recreates the texture natural wood. From corrosion, mechanical damage and fading in the sun, the material is protected by zinc and polymer coating. Woodstock® steel siding is an environmentally friendly material. Unlike wood, it does not burn, does not rot, is not susceptible to insects, and at the same time allows you to preserve the aesthetics of a wooden structure.

Panel characteristics

Siding name	Metal thickness, mm	Length, mm	Full width, mm	Working width, mm	Profile height, mm	Weight 1m2, kg
Ship board MP SK 14x226	0.4; 0.45; 0.5	up to 6000	260	226	14	3.96; 4.24; 4.71
Lbeam 15x240	0.4; 0.5	up to 6000	264	240	15	5.19; 5.69
Woodstock ® 28x330	0.45; 0.5; 0.7	up to 6000	356	330	28	4.13; 4.59; 6.42

Additional elements

External compound angle plank PUNS-75x75x3000 PUNSW-75x75x3000		External corner plank PUN-30x30x3000 PUN-50x50x3000 PUN-75x75x3000
Internal compound angle plank PUVS-75x3000 PUVSW-75x3000		Internal corner plank PUV-30x30x3000 PUV-50x50x3000 PUV-75x75x3000
Complex docking bar PSTS-75x3000 PTSSW-75x3000		Docking strip PST-50x2000 PST-60x3000
The finishing plank is difficult CCD-30x25x3000		Final plank PZ-65x3000
Initial siding plank PNS-10x20x3000		Universal docking strip PSU-50x18x3000 PSUW-50x30x3000
Initial siding plank PNW-12x15x3000		Z-shaped plank PZ-32x15x3000 PZ-30x23x3000

Preparation for installation

Substructure elements

Reinforced mounting brackets KKU-90 (120, 150, 180, 230) with washer and insulating gasket, t=1.2 and 2.0 mm	Mounting brackets KK-50 (90, 120, 150, 180 and 230), with washer and insulating gasket, t=1.2 and 2.0 mm	Bracket extension enhanced UK-150, t=1.2 mm
Mounting profile L-shaped CNG-40x40x3000, t=0.9 and 1.2 mm	Mounting profile L-shaped CNG-60x44x3000, t=0.9 and 1.2 mm	Mounting profile L-shaped wide KPGSh-60x81x3000,

Substructure materials

Depending on the degree of aggressiveness environment and required service life, substructure elements can be supplied in three options:

• Galvanized steel (Zinc);
• Galvanized steel with powder painting (Galvanized, with software);
• Corrosion-resistant steel (Stainless steel).

Substructure

A substructure is a wall-mounted steel frame system for attaching siding or other cladding material. The substructure consists of mounting brackets KK (KKU) with a console overhang from 50 to 230 mm, bracket extensions (used only with extended mounting brackets KKU), L-shaped guide profiles. Ventilated facade systems are also equipped with various types, thermal insulation and films.

Most often, lightweight substructures are used to install siding panels.

Installation

Installation of metal substructure

Before installation begins, it is necessary to clean the surface from elements unrelated to the base (loose plaster, paint, etc.), as well as dismantle elements of the drainage system, antennas, signs, etc.

Next, the axes are marked according to the project and the beacons are installed. Brackets with isolon (paronite) gasket are attached to the existing wall through a washer with facade anchors with a pitch of 800 mm in height and a pitch of 700 mm in the width of the building. The distance from the edge of the wall is at least 100 mm.

The length of the mounting brackets is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness of the insulation exceeds 230 mm, reinforced fastening brackets (KKU) should be used together with a bracket extension (UK), which allows increasing the overhang of the substructure to 350 mm.

After installing the mounting brackets, insulation can be used. Installation of insulation is carried out from the bottom up. In this case, the insulation must rest on the base or other surface to avoid slipping. The insulation boards are laid tightly to each other, preventing voids and deformation. When laying insulation in two layers, the joints of the plates should not coincide. Thermal insulation boards are fastened to the base using plastic disc-type dowels with spacer rods (5-7 pieces per m2). When working with insulation, you must use protective gloves and a respirator.

A hydro-windproof membrane with an overlap of 150 mm is installed on top of the insulation.

The L-shaped profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the siding panels. For horizontal installation – vertically.

The design of the brackets allows for leveling (straightening) of the sheathing plane up to 30 mm to create a flat surface for the siding. If this is not enough, then it is necessary to install brackets of a different length or a bracket extension.

To remove condensate from the insulation in the system, it is necessary to provide a ventilated gap of at least 40 mm.

Installation of additional elements

Additional elements are decorative elements, used for cladding walls with siding, at joints, corners, slopes, etc. Additional elements are divided into complex and simple.

Complex planks are installed before the installation of wall panels begins, so the joints of the siding panels must be determined and marked in advance, taking into account dimensions panels. After fixing all the complex planks, the siding panels are installed.

Installation takes place by inserting the siding panel into the groove in the lock of the previous panel. The panel must be inserted all the way into the corner or joining strip, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between the siding and the edges of the strips (to compensate for the temperature gap); we place the opposite end behind the strip. We fix the panel with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws to the L-shaped mounting profile.

For normal operation of the system ventilation façade It is necessary to leave gaps (40 mm) between the surface of the insulation (hydro-windproof membrane) and the internal structure of the cladding, as well as: at the base, under and above the windows, under the roof eaves.

Installation of simple shaped (additional) elements is carried out after installation of wall panels.

Installation of “Shipboard” siding

Installation of “Shipboard” siding begins from the bottom up. The initial bar (PNS-10x20x3000) is leveled in a horizontal position and secured to the fastening L-shaped profiles with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws. It is recommended to first install the base drip, if required.

For ease of installation, the edge of the siding lock must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees with metal scissors on both sides.

The first strip of “Shipboard” siding is inserted under the lower part of the initial strip, providing a locking grip; the upper part of the siding is attached to the guides with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws in the perforated holes.

Subsequent rows of siding are hooked onto each other and secured with 4.2x16 screws to the profiles. The self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with some clearance to compensate for temperature deformations. Using a level, check the horizontal installation of the siding slats.

If it is necessary to screw a self-tapping screw into the edge of the hole in order to get into the subsystem strip, then it is recommended to increase the length of the hole. A gap of 1 mm should be left between the screw head and the panel. If the top siding panel larger size required by the project, it must be trimmed to the required size. Install the Z-shaped strip and secure the last siding panel with rivets.

After installing the siding panels, the last row with perforations, the junctions with the roof, and the joints of the window and door opening are closed.

Installation of siding Lbrus

Installation of Lbrus siding is carried out from top to bottom, from left to right. This is due to the geometry of the lock, since when installed from the bottom up, precipitation may enter the siding lock, which can lead to negative consequences.

Installation begins with the installation of the PZS-30x25x3000 strip. The first row of siding is inserted into the strip and fixed with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with some clearance to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding are inserted into each other and fastened in the same way. Using a level, you can check the horizontal installation of the siding panels. If the last panel of siding is larger than the size required for the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, install a Z-bar and rivet the last panel of siding.

Installation of Woodstock ® siding

Woodstock ® siding accurately reproduces the relief of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that completely recreates the pattern of natural wood.

The Woodstock ® siding lock creates a barrier for water, thereby preventing it from penetrating inside and freezing, damaging the integrity of the structure.

This lock makes it possible to install Woodstock ® siding both from the bottom up and from the top down.

When installing siding panels from bottom to top. The perforation area for securing the panels (lock) must be on top. The number of panels is calculated according to the height of the facade, based on the useful width of the siding panel - 330 mm. If the number of panels is not whole, you need to cut the remaining (topmost) panel to the required size, install a Z-shaped strip and secure the last siding strip with rivets.

Top-down installation option.

The first row of siding is hooked onto the starting strip PNW-12x15x3000. The bottom of the panel is fastened with self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with a gap to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding interlock with each other and are fastened in the same way. Using a level, you can check the horizontal installation of the siding panels.

If the last panel of siding is larger than the size required for the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, install a Z-bar and rivet the last panel of siding.

If there are any external objects in the wall, such as drainpipes, electrical wiring, you need to cut a hole 6-10 mm larger than the device itself.

Installation of window and door frames

Adjusting siding around windows.

The framing of window and door openings can be: shaped product or a complex external corner strip; in some cases, external corner strips can be used, which are installed on top of the mounted siding. A window sill is usually installed on the windowsill.

When installing door and window frames, you must first install the top parts, then the side ones.

Completion of installation.

The final touch is the framing of the top edge of the cladding. Depending on the situation, it can be done using a window sill, a fastening strip, or an internal corner.

All these elements are fastened with self-tapping screws. Step 300 mm.