Ideas for garden beds in the country. Not boring beds Neat beds in the garden

Gardening is a favorite hobby of many of our fellow citizens. In other years, only having your own personal plot allowed you to keep the family budget afloat, but today the garden can be considered as a source of fresh and environmentally friendly produce for the family table.

But in order to get a rich harvest, it is very important to master competent soil cultivation technology, since otherwise you will not be able to ensure a normal growing season for the crops you grow. In particular, it is very important to know how to properly make beds in the garden. This article is devoted to consideration of this issue.

Initial soil preparation

If you are going to use some area for garden beds, it must be processed and dug up as thoroughly as possible, simultaneously freeing it from debris, plant roots and trees. If you plan to make beds on an area where some kind of garden buildings previously stood, you will have to spend a lot of time clearing it of construction waste. As a rule, in this case a lot of glass, bunches and remains of boards remain in the ground. All this must be removed.

In addition, after this it is advisable to bring there a layer of normal soil, from which the beds will be formed. Of course, you can try to grow plants on the remaining soil, but its fertility will be in question.

What should you pay special attention to?

Before properly making garden beds, it is very important to prepare the bottom layer of soil. The fact is that with strong compaction, moisture will constantly be retained in the beds. This is good in dry years, but the rest of the time there will be a constant risk for plants, since their roots may simply rot.

It is advisable to use a cultivator for loosening, since it will be very difficult to properly loosen the soil manually. Important! If this is your first time making beds in this place, it is advisable to have the soil tested: perhaps it is too acidic or alkaline. It is better to immediately add appropriate additives to it, since otherwise it will not be possible to grow a rich harvest.

Among other things, we would recommend planting green manure on newly cultivated lands. It is best to use alfalfa or other legumes. There is no need to sow rye, as it makes the soil very acidic. An exception can be made only for highly alkaline soils. Of course, in this case, all agricultural activities take much more time, but all costs are paid off.

When the soil issue is completely resolved, you can begin marking the beds.

Of course, creating beds always begins with delineating boundaries and digging, but it is important to remember that high crop yields can largely depend on other factors. Before making the right garden beds, it is also important to choose their location in relation to the cardinal points. This issue should not be approached lightly, since plant productivity depends on the correct choice of location.

Let's look at some generally accepted rules to follow when setting up growing areas. different cultures. So, beds for vegetables are located in the direction from north to south. It is best to make them rectangular. It is believed that it is more convenient to process ridges if they have a width of 1.2 m. The length can be any, it all depends on your preferences and the size of the plot.

They are made at least 40 cm wide, but it is preferable to provide even wider passages, since in this case it is possible to strengthen the edges of the ridges with the help of boards or slate.

Approximately the same requirements apply to the layout of flower beds or ridges. Of course, it is much better to make their corners rounded, since they look much better. Before properly making beds in the garden, it is best to outline their future boundaries using twine and several pegs. Don't forget to make indentations, otherwise you won't have room for aisles.

What to do if you are making a garden bed in a former meadow?

Important. In this case, it is necessary to carefully remove the turf. Make compost out of it: this fertilizer contains a huge amount nutrients that contribute to a significant increase Here's how to do it good garden bed with which you will receive excellent harvest!

You need to start digging the soil from the edge of the string stretched along the border. You need to work with a shovel so that you get a neat and clearly defined line. In this way we dig the entire border of the bed. Be sure to pay attention to how dense the soil is at the depth of the shovel bayonet. If there is a lot of clay there, you will have to dig two or three shovels deep. Or use a cultivator or even a tractor.

We use a hoe or a hoe!

After removing the layer of turf, you will find that underneath there is quite decent, but still somewhat dense, soil. If the soil is compacted too tightly, it would be preferable to cultivate it with a hoe, since in this case you break the roots of the plants, and the structure of the soil becomes much better. Since making a garden bed with your own hands can be difficult, you need to purchase all the necessary tools for cultivating the soil in advance.

In a word, creating beds is a rather troublesome and time-consuming task. Therefore, it is worth taking care of preserving the results of your work by strengthening the resulting ridges. The easiest way is to use boards and hammer in pegs to support them. But a blind area made of bricks or natural stone. Plus, she looks much more beautiful.

When making a vegetable garden with your own hands (including beds), do not forget about the accuracy of your work. Such personal plot will give you a lot of positive emotions!

How to make beds in the garden if you want to get a harvest from them as early as possible, starting in April-May?

Making warm beds

In order to get a rich harvest and cucumbers in the conditions of our middle zone, the natural growing season is not enough, because the earth warms up too late and freezes quickly. Since making a warm bed is not difficult, you can correct this annoying misunderstanding without spending money on building a greenhouse or even a greenhouse.

By the way, what is this? In this case, before starting to develop the site, you need to dig a ditch 40-50 cm deep, which completely follows the contours of the future bed. Layers of manure are laid there, which must be alternated with the remains of tops, rotten wood and similar organic residues. Kitchen waste can also be used.

Before making a warm bed, you can also purchase it. It heats up best. Having laid out a layer of waste level with the edges of the ditch, we lay fertile soil on top of it, and the thickness of its layer should be at least 40 cm, since otherwise the roots of the plants may burn.

Next steps

After this, cover the finished bed with film and leave it for a couple of days. When the ground warms up noticeably, you can plant the seedlings. It is better to combine this method with installing a film cover. In this case, planting can begin almost immediately after the snow melts and the strong morning frosts disappear.

Here's how to make garden beds. There are some difficulties with this, but as a result you will get an excellent harvest of your own vegetables.

The dacha and garden, instead of a place of relaxation, often become a place of exhausting work. Water, weed, loosen, water again, weed, loosen, and so on in a circle. At the same time, the harvest is not always pleasing. The situation can be changed. There is a special technology - a smart garden. The cultivated area is reduced significantly, the amount of water required for irrigation is reduced, and the yield increases. This is not a fairy tale. On smart beds Many people have already switched and they are all happy with the result.

What is a smart garden or smart beds

A smart garden allows you to minimum costs labor to obtain maximum yields. How? There are several basic rules and technician: proper planning of plantings, rotation of planted plants, special growing technologies (in high beds, trenches), drip irrigation, mulching or the use of covering material. All this has been known for a long time and, probably, is already used by many. But it is precisely in combination that all these measures give what is called a “smart garden”. Because everything on the site is done wisely.

A smart vegetable garden is formed, often raised or high beds in which necessary conditions for plant growth

The main task of this technology is to make sure that working in the dacha is not a burden. This is possible if you approach the organization of the process wisely. And it’s completely in vain that this technology is called “a garden for the lazy.” At the stage of arrangement you will have to work hard, but then everything will grow almost by itself, but the first stage requires hard efforts.

It’s worth starting with site planning. It is necessary to choose the location of the beds taking into account the lighting. Then develop a laying plan for the area water pipes and pave them. At the same time, you can build beds. Roughly in that order. All this requires time, significant effort and money. Material costs may not be too large.

Planning a vegetable garden

If you already have a summer house or a plot of land near your house, you have probably already encountered a situation of an overabundance of fruits, vegetables and berries. When the harvest has to be distributed to relatives, neighbors, and colleagues. But in order to grow it, a lot of effort had to be made. To avoid such a situation, it is necessary to plan the harvest. It’s clear that you won’t get great accuracy, but results close to the planned ones are possible.

A smart vegetable garden is also a decoration of the site

We count the area of the beds

The first thing to do is sit down and think about what and how much you want to grow. The specific quantity is in kilograms. How much do you need to “eat” and “close”. Write a list of plants (in a column) and the desired harvest.

Having decided on the list of plants that you want to grow in your home, we sit down and look average yield, which can be achieved when growing in smart beds. It is given in the table. Since you are still an inexperienced “lazy gardener”, reduce it by half. We put numbers next to each plant. It must be recorded in kilograms per square meter of area.

Now it’s easy to calculate how much area you need to allocate for each type of plant: divide the desired yield in kilograms by the average yield for each type of plant. We get the square footage for vegetables, berries, herbs, etc. If we add up all these areas, we will find out how many beds you need in total. These are the beds that should be placed on your site.

You're probably surprised by how little space you need for garden beds. And it's really not enough. Many times less than what we are used to! You will have very little land to cultivate. The vacated space can be taken under rockeries, and other decorations.

Where to place

When planning smart beds, you need to take into account the degree of illumination. Almost all the plants you need prefer sunny places. In partial shade you can grow rhubarb, sorrel, and onions (including feathers). Perhaps that's all. There are no garden plants that grow well in shaded areas. Or rather, they will grow, but the yield will decrease by 3-4 times. Shaded areas should be set aside as a recreation area or a flower bed with shade-loving plants should be placed there.

Another principle for placing beds: the more care (read watering) a crop requires, the closer to the entrance to the house it should be located:

Why arrange the plants this way? Because at the beginning of the watering/weeding work, gardeners are full of enthusiasm and the plants receive more water, weeds are removed more thoroughly. Gradually, the fervor subsides, less and less water is available per square area, and processing becomes less thorough. And with the approach proposed above, the amount of water will be “just right” and everything will be fine with soil cultivation.

Orientation to cardinal directions and precise location determination

If you want to get a harvest from the entire area of the lazy bed, the location is north-south. Strictly. This is the only way the entire area will bear fruit. Also place trellises for climbing vegetables. Although, they can be planted along the southern and eastern walls of buildings.

For a smart garden to also be beautiful, you need to think about where to place the beds. To do this, take a scale plan of the site indicating the direction to north/south. On it we draw all the buildings and main paths, water supply ( special attention pay attention to the position of the taps), trees and shrubs. On the plan we immediately outline the shadow zones - we will not place vegetables here, this is a place for flowers and fountains.

We cut out the beds from paper (on the same scale as the site plan). Moreover, we make them in the shape that we plan: rectangle, square, circle, triangle, etc. The shape is selected based on the area planned for the crop. And it doesn’t have to be a boring rectangle. Since there will be enough free space (you remember that you need much less beds), rationalism fades into the background, and the main emphasis is on aesthetics. After all, few people work in their dachas “so that they have something to eat”; mostly it’s also a pleasure. And what could be more pleasant than the beauty of a cultivated plot?

So, we sign each piece of paper indicating a smart bed - we put the name of the crop or crops (you can grow two, three or more on one bed). Now we are looking for a place for each, taking into account the rules described above. Along the way, you can change the shape of smart beds: for the sake of beauty or convenience. When you have found the places, trace the contours and transfer the inscriptions. All that remains is to implement our plans.

Irrigation system

A significant part of gardening work is watering the plants. If you use lazy beds, you will have to water much less often. But even in this case, it is better to route the pipes around the area correctly. You already have a plan for the location of the beds in your garden. Now add flower beds, bushes and trees. Get a plan for the placement of plants that need to be watered. Now you should think about how to ensure that any “irrigation object” is no more than 2-3 meters away. If you do this, then you will have to pull a small hose to each bed, which is much simpler.

Homemade system drip irrigation made of polymer pipes, water source - barrel

It’s even better if a hose for drip irrigation is installed in the smart garden bed. This will reduce water consumption and increase yield. Yes, at the same time. A drip irrigation hose is a polyethylene tube with small holes through which water drips drop by drop. When planting, plants are planted next to the holes. As a result, water is supplied to the root, the plant receives a sufficient amount of moisture, and the spaces between plants remain only slightly moist (due to the redistribution of moisture in the soil).

When using drip irrigation, you will have very little work. You open the tap, wait a certain period of time, close the tap. All. Hoses for drip irrigation are available for connection to a water supply (sold by the meter), and are available in the form of kits with a small pump that will pump water from the container. The price range for hoses for drip irrigation is significant - prices differ significantly. No matter how limited your finances are, do not buy the cheapest hoses - they will last no more than one season. It’s better to pay a little more for a quality product and use it for several years. When choosing kits for drip irrigation, you must also consider the area to be irrigated. But, most likely, it will suit you, since lazy beds are rarely large. Read more about drip irrigation kits and manufacturers.

How to make smart/lazy beds

The principle of constructing smart/lazy beds is that you need to create ideal conditions for the development of plants and ease of processing for yourself. What do plants need? Nutrients, adequate light, air, moisture and lack of large quantity weeds.

Oxygen and nutrients

We provided them with a sufficient amount of sun by arranging the beds from north to south. The next task is to provide nutrients and air to the roots. We lay all this when forming the beds. Depending on the type of soil, we select components that are missing in the “source material”. IN Middle lane In Russia, the main soils are clay and loam, so humus of varying degrees of “maturity” (one, two and three years) is usually added. This is both for fertilizing and for lightening the soil - for better access of oxygen to the roots. Along with humus, bacteria and worms enter, which continue processing, enriching the soil and loosening it for you.

Productivity with square meter it will be wow...

If necessary, you can add other fertilizers - into the holes when planting or when watering. Depends on the crops or the richness/poorness of the source soils. The most common natural fertilizers are chicken manure and cow manure, and ash. If you apply only cow manure, mole crickets will annoy you. If you add a little chicken manure, there will be no mole crickets, and the soil composition will become richer.

Moisture retention and weed control

Some of the moisture will be supplied by rain and dew, and some will have to be added by irrigation. And so that less water is required, fill the entire space of the bed that is not filled with plants with mulch. Mulch, by the way, also reduces the number of weeds - there is not enough light for them under it.

Straw, mown grass, sawdust, fallen pine needles, and special mulch made from wood chips can be used as mulch. All this can be used to mulch lazy beds. But all materials are imperfect. Here are their advantages and disadvantages:

There is another good solution: cover smart/lazy beds with a special black covering material. They completely cover the surface of the beds, sometimes in two layers. Small holes are made under the plants. Watering is carried out directly on the material - it does not retain water and air, does not allow weeds to grow, and protects the soil from overheating. In general, it’s good for everyone, except that you have to buy it.

How to make them

WITH general principles creation smart garden We figured it out, now let’s specifically figure out how to make beds. You cannot walk on them, so they must be fenced - with stones, slate, iron, logs cut in half, boards... It doesn’t matter what, but the beds must be separated from the paths. And since you cannot step on the beds, their width should be such that you can freely cultivate the soil.

Now about the width of smart beds. It depends on the type: will they be of normal height or raised. If the beds are made at ground level, their width is 80-100 cm. You can work this width while squatting or bending over. If the beds are raised at least half a meter, it will be even more convenient to work. They make not only high beds. You can use all possible growing technologies:

Now let’s talk about whether regular height beds are better or raised ones. For a really lazy garden, raised ones are better: when cultivating the soil you will have to strain less. But it’s a troublesome and slow task. So, to begin with, you can acquire high beds only for the most difficult to maintain crops. You can also use various containers/containers - for greens, salads, spice plants. Large barrels and boxes sawn lengthwise are suitable. Available for sale plastic containers, which are produced specifically for smart gardening. They can generally be placed on paths, near the entrance to the house.

The only crop that should not be grown in raised beds is potatoes. It grows well in trenches, and making them is much easier and faster.

Between the beds

The beds in the smart garden are separated, the distance between them is at least 60 cm (preferably 90-100 cm or more). A significant gap that needs to be filled with something. Weeding between the beds is not the most best idea. Why then bother with separate beds in order to fight the weeds between them... Therefore, you can either lay out/pave or sow lawn grass. The best herb for our lawn - poa shoots and bentgrass. They grow quickly, form dense greenery that does not get trampled and can even withstand cart handling.

The grass will need to be cut, so you will need a lawn mower or trimmer. And the cut grass can be used for mulch. Then, by the way, the weeds will come out - they cannot withstand frequent cutting.

Some tricks

The technology is called smart gardening for a reason. You can test different approaches, new products, and the experience of “colleagues.” There are several tricks that come with use. We have already talked about one - about covering material. It really makes maintenance a lot easier and there is no need for mulch. There are other interesting ideas:

Surely there are still tricks in processing a smart vegetable garden. If we find out about them, we will definitely update the article.

Growing plants in the country is not an easy task, requiring knowledge and a responsible approach. To improve the site and provide favorable conditions for the development of vegetable and other crops, beds are used. Find out their types and organizational features with your own hands.

If you plan to organize garden beds at your dacha with your own hands, familiarize yourself with the features of the process. First, understand the concept: a garden bed is a partially isolated small plant in which, under suitable conditions, you can grow different cultures, providing the right individual care.

When organizing beds, several points are taken into account:

The location depends on the specific crop being grown. Some plants require good lighting, others do better in shade. When choosing a location, you need to take into account the topography of the site. If the place is located in a lowland, moisture will accumulate in it, which is unacceptable for some crops. When placing, ensure easy access for convenient and unobstructed maintenance. To do this, do not place the beds far from water sources and do not arrange them at short distances from each other, otherwise walking between them will be problematic.
The shape is determined by the preferences of the dacha owner. It can be standard rectangular or square, but it is possible to organize beds with unusual shapes in the form of figures. The shape is also influenced by the territory, because the beds must fit organically into it.
What plants will be grown? They require individual care, taking into account the characteristics of a particular species, so the characteristics of the culture influence the choice of location in the country and the size of the beds. And some vegetables do not get along together, so they need to be planted separately at a considerable distance.
Skills. If you are planning to organize beds on the site for the first time and do not have the knowledge, choose unpretentious crops and easy-to-build beds. Having decided to create complex designs, you risk making mistakes and reducing or spoiling the harvest.

There are several types of beds, and they are worth considering in detail and separately.

Box-bed

A box bed is a convenient and popular method of arranging a vegetable garden, allowing you to create a separate isolated area for a specific crop, giving the area a neat, aesthetic and well-groomed appearance.

You can make a box bed by preparing the place and fencing it with shields. To mark the boundaries and arrange the walls, polycarbonate or plastic sheets, boards, and slate (wave, flat) are used. It is advisable to choose a practical and moisture-resistant material that can last one season and remain durable.

Do-it-yourself organization includes several stages:

Designation of boundaries. Draw them or place pegs, taking into account the shape and size of the bed.
Installation of walls. They are placed in the soil in which the furrows are previously prepared. The soil must be compacted to ensure stability and strength of the structure.
Fill in soil and organic matter, alternating layers.
Plant your plants.

For your information! Preparing box beds for winter involves collecting them. In the spring, the structure is erected, the soil is loosened and planted with the selected crop.

Beds with drainage

Beds with drainage are relevant and necessary if the garden is located in a low-lying area and is clayey or swampy. Excess and stagnation of water are destructive and provoke rotting of the root system, so it is necessary to ensure timely constant drainage and optimal gas exchange.

To organize drainage with your own hands, follow the instructions:

Designate an area for planting.
Remove a layer of soil 50 to 60 cm thick.
Sand is placed at the bottom of the resulting pit, the layer thickness of which will be at least 20-25 cm.
Place sawdust, humus and a layer of soil suitable for growing the selected plant on top of the sand.

High

Raised beds should be done in a low-lying or heavily swampy area: raising the soil will prevent stagnation of moisture and ensure timely drainage. Suitable option for melons, potatoes, zucchini. Height can range from 30-35 cm to 70-80.

Step-by-step installation of a high bed in the garden:

Prepare the box. It can be built from plastic, boards, brick, metal.
A metal mesh is installed at the bottom of the structure, providing protection against rodents. Geotextiles are laid on top of it to prevent weed germination.
Lay drainage, including expanded clay, broken brick, and pebbles. The thickness of the layer is at least ten centimeters.
Prepare the soil by disinfecting it and treating it against pests. Fill the box with soil, filling most of it and leaving sides about 5 cm high.

Good to know! Raised beds can be organized without boxes using bulk trapezoids or ridges. A compost layer is placed on the soil to provide soil lifting. Next, soil is poured and planting is carried out. But the beds will last only one season, since during the winter they will sag under the weight of the snow and become wet when it melts. If mole cricket insects are common in the region, it is better not to use compost: pests quickly colonize it and multiply, destroying the crop. The lift is provided by a mound of soil.

Vertical

A vertical bed will save space in the garden and become great solution, if the site has a small area. But the option is suitable for crops with a not very developed root system: strawberries, lettuce, cucumbers, herbs, tomatoes.

For organization, it is allowed to use boxes, special racks or containers. You can arrange a vertical bed from scrap materials by making containers from plastic bottles and placing them on a homemade frame assembled from boards or metal profiles.

French

In 2018, beautiful and aesthetic French beds are relevant. Distinctive Features– laconic geometric shapes, strict planted rows and paths between plantings. Fences can be made from finishing materials (decking boards, paving slabs), brick. You can do this by planting lettuce around the perimeter of the beds, stunted look greenery Raise areas if the ground is waterlogged or the area frequently floods.

English

Lovers original ideas English garden beds that allow a mixture of crops will be appreciated. , a garden area with trees and a vegetable garden do not have strict boundaries and form a single landscape design. One area may include flower beds, fruit crops, vegetable plantings.

Spaces are left between the beds for free movement and comfortable care. The area should not look neglected and abandoned, so carefully look after the garden, clear the soil of weeds and fence the perimeter of the beds, for example, with stones or bricks (possibly of irregular shapes).

Lazy

Lazy beds suitable for beginners or very busy summer residents, as they do not require complex organization and labor-intensive preparation. There is no need to prepare holes and dig up the soil to great depths. It is enough to weed the ground, freeing it from weeds, loosen it slightly, and then plant it. The spaces between the bushes are filled with mulch, which preserves moisture and prevents its rapid evaporation, as well as protection from weeds. This greatly simplifies care and helps to reap good harvests.

Advice! Lazy beds can be above ground and unfenced, or raised and surrounded by borders.

Smart

Smart beds are not only original and beautiful, but also practical and productive. This method of organization will create optimal conditions cultivation and will increase harvest volumes.

Making smart beds on a site is not easy, since you need to raise them and fill them not with ordinary soil, but with special mixtures suitable for specific crops, consisting of compost, fertilizers, clean nutrient soil, and organic matter. The landings are protected by reinforced high sides. It is advisable to raise the area itself to protect it from stagnant water and pest attacks.

Warm

Warm beds will allow you to get an early harvest and will be a good alternative to greenhouses. Planting heat will be provided by organic matter, which releases energy during the decomposition process.

The arrangement is carried out at the end of autumn and includes several steps:

Remove a layer of soil about 50 centimeters thick. You can also make a box and install it in the prepared recess. A metal mesh can be laid at the bottom of a hole or container to protect against moles.
Place sawdust, pre-scalded and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, on the bottom. This layer should have a thickness of at least 15-17 cm.
Add organic matter such as fallen leaves, turf, bird droppings or manure. Compact this layer to a thickness of 15 centimeters.
Place organic matter that rots quickly, for example, prepared compost. This layer is approximately 10 cm thick.
Place a nutrient mixture consisting of six parts peat and one part sand and sawdust. Add here a tablespoon of ash and superphosphate, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, zinc sulfate. The fertile substrate is 20 cm thick.

With the first rays of the spring sun, organic matter will release heat, warming the soil to 40-45 degrees, which will allow crops to be planted much earlier. This way you can grow plants with a small root system: cucumbers, strawberries, herbs, radishes.

Garden bed fencing

Arrange beautiful and neat beds and zone them summer cottage plot fences will help. Try to integrate them organically into the landscape design and do it correctly to protect the plants from negative impacts and create an aesthetically pleasing appearance for your garden.

Used for fencing different materials: polycarbonate, slate, metal, wood (boards or logs), stone, rods and pegs. Lovers interesting ideas use improvised means: plastic and glass bottles, car tires, old hoses.

Below are the characteristics of the main types of materials used for organizing fencing.

Metal

Metal fences are quite durable, but can be exposed to moisture for a long time and become rusty, which will not only worsen the appearance of the sides, but also negatively affect the composition of the soil. Thin metal is susceptible to deformation after mechanical stress. Metal also heats up in the sun.

Galvanized

Galvanized fencing has good characteristics: do not corrode, serve for a long time, retain their properties, are highly durable and resistant to attacks by pests and fungi. The beds will be reliably protected from wind and other natural phenomena and pests. Ready-made galvanized steel fences are lightweight, easy to assemble, and come in a variety of colors.

The big disadvantage is the high cost of the structures. They also quickly warm up and transfer heat to the surrounding soil, increasing the soil temperature and negatively affecting root system.

Plastic

Plastic fencing – modern solution. They are light in weight and are not susceptible to pest attacks or exposure. high humidity, serve long enough and have affordable price. Light plastic will not get very hot in the sun. But the fences are subject to mechanical influences.

By taking a responsible approach to organizing garden beds at your dacha, you will arrange a vegetable garden, improve the area and get an excellent harvest. Good luck to all gardeners!

Vegetable gardening in Russia is famous for the fact that people are constantly adopting various low-cost ways to increase productivity. The so-called warm beds have earned high popularity. Their device is created in such a way that early heating of the soil occurs with natural (from rotting organic matter) or artificial (using energy) heat.

To put it simply, a warm bed is a kind of compost pit that has drainage at the bottom and planting soil at the top. There are three options for compost beds according to their placement relative to ground level:

raised above the surface;
recessed;
mixed design (the base is at depth, the top is located above ground level.

In any case, filling the bed will look like a layer cake, in which each layer represents some kind of organic material.

Such beds are formed either early spring, or late autumn. Going into winter with pre-prepared beds is very rational, because before freezing in the depths of the structure, the process of decomposition of organic matter will already begin, and in the spring it will continue with renewed vigor.

Contents of organic warm beds

Approximate contents of raised beds from bottom to top:

protection from rodents - mice and moles (use metal or plastic mesh);

drainage layer (plant branches, large twigs, logs, remains of old stumps and other bulky material);
insulating fabric (geotextile) or a layer of old newspapers and cardboard on top of it;

IMPORTANT. The insulating layer protects the drainage layer from being flooded with water and also prevents the germination of weeds.

sawdust, bark, chopped branches;
unrotted organic matter - old foliage and various plant remains;
rotted compost;
garden soil or specially brought fertile soil.

IMPORTANT. The thickness of the top layer must be such that the roots have enough space and do not grow into the layer of unrotted organic matter. Study in advance the specifics of the plants that you plan to plant in this bed.

Depending on the design, some layers can be eliminated. For example:

if the bed lies on the ground without deepening, then a drainage layer of bulk material is not needed. There is no need for cardboard either - just cover the bottom of the bed with a protective coating against rodents, and then with waterproof technical fabric, so that irrigation water does not quickly go into the soil;

if the bed is of a mixed type (buried with an elevation), make sure that the ground level is somewhere between a layer of cardboard and unrotted organic matter.

There are no strict rules. The main task of a novice designer of warm beds is to understand the whole operating principle:

sequence of layers;
organization of the rotting process;
protection from rodents;
thickness of each layer of filler.

Most questions revolve around how thick each layer should be. Experienced gardeners recommend paying attention to key points:

top fertile soil with compost 15-25 cm (depending on the length of the roots going deep);
unrotted organic matter (old leaves, etc.) in a layer about 12-15 cm thick;
a layer of old branches, sawdust - about 10-13 cm;
the lower drainage layer is from 5 to 10 cm.

Varieties

There are different versions beds that provide natural warmth from the inside. The choice of design depends on how much time and effort you are willing to spend on the result. Remember that any garden design is considered simultaneously as:

the opportunity to increase yields;
means of facilitating further gardening work, increasing convenience;
aesthetic organization of plantations and plantings on the site.

Technologically the simplest option. What are the advantages of a warm bed of this type:

they are much easier to care for;
there is no need for hard work digging the earth to depth;

IMPORTANT. Ideal for conditions where the soil is excessively swampy (an optimal environment is created inside the contour of a warm bed by selecting fillers, and the bottom is covered with insulating material).

easy to create clear geometric shapes (relevant for lovers of sophistication landscape design);

it is much easier to protect plant roots from mice and moles.

In-ground beds

Most difficult option in terms of labor costs. However, the result is more solid:

below ground level, organic matter does not freeze as much as in raised beds, so the process of heat release begins much earlier in the spring;
once digging a trench and filling it organic materials, you don’t have to worry about repeated work for several years (shelf life is approximately 3-4 years without the need to change the internal contents);
saving effort and time on the side framing of beds, because you can do without it (if the surface of the bed is level with the level of the surrounding ground).

Mixed type

This option is considered optimal:

the buried part plays a long-term role (there is no need to dig it up every spring);
the elevation of the upper fertile part allows you to cultivate the bed with less effort;

IMPORTANT. Working in a sitting position is important for older people. They often suffer from atherosclerosis and other vascular diseases, in which a head-down position is contraindicated.

the recommended height of the part protruding above the surface is approximately 55-70 cm;

the rising part will have to be decorated with side walls, that is, the result will be an aesthetically attractive look - the garden or vegetable garden will look more stylish, pleasing to the eye with landscape design.

Materials

Very important aspect- what to make the contour of the bed from. Although there is a wide variety of materials on the market, they have different properties:

aesthetic appearance;
financial high/low cost;
fragility/durability;
response to temperature;
safety from an environmental point of view.

IMPORTANT. Never use glass. There is a high risk of combat, and it is simply impossible to remove small fragments from the soil.

The final decision is always yours, and let it be balanced. Brief overview materials claiming to be used:

DIY garden bed

In this article we will look at a mixed type design:

buried by the base;
having an above-ground part;
wooden side frame.

This instruction will help you better understand general scheme and details of working with various materials.

Preparing for work

Tools and material:

carpentry (saw, drill, level, screwdriver, measuring tape, corner);

gardening (shovel, rake, pitchfork, garden cart for transporting compost and other filler materials, earth drill);
edged board 2-2.5 cm thick, 17-20 cm wide;
4x4 cm block for stakes;
metal or plastic mesh against rodents.

Bed dimensions:

The width is important so that it is convenient to work with the bed when growing plants. It is optimal if the bed is no wider than 1.0-1.3 m. In narrow areas of the site (for example, near a fence), you can make beds 70 cm wide. Even with one-way access, the plantings will be necessary care and the care of the gardener.
the length is arbitrary - as far as the configuration of your garden plot allows.

as mentioned above, the ground part of the bed is recommended to be 50-75 cm high;
however, this recommendation is not mandatory. Moreover, taking into account the fact that the thickness of the internal layers varies. Therefore, the bed can also be placed inside a lower contour (20-35 cm).

IMPORTANT. Plan in advance, this will make it easier for you to implement your plans without wasting time on alterations and improvements.

Frame making

Please note that the sides of the bed will have to be made of double boards, that is, place one board vertically above the other so that the height of the walls is sufficient. Thus, you will have the following actions:

measure the required length, cut boards (4 side boards, 4 end boards);

prepare stakes from a 4x4 cm bar, 75-80 cm long;

IMPORTANT. How many stakes will it take? With a bed length of 2-2.5 meters, 6 pieces are enough. With a bed length of 3.5-4 meters, 8 pieces are enough.

make two-level sides by joining two boards together (use scraps of boards, loosened into planks with a hatchet);

keep in mind that the screws should not extend beyond the drilled wood (when purchasing screws, remember that the thickness of the board is 2.5 cm, and it needs to be multiplied by two, since the connecting strips will be the same thickness).

This completes the preparation. The frame will need to be installed directly into the trench - fastening at the corners of the structure will also be done there. A measuring angle and level will help you maintain accuracy.

Trench and its filling

Step by step steps:

mark the bed or beds (marking with pegs and a stretched cord will allow you to dig a trench of an even geometric shape);

It is advisable to dig a trench so that its depth is about 40-45 cm;

lay down a rodent mesh (it is sold in hardware stores, ask for reinforcing mesh or chain-link);
create a drainage layer (see details above) - coarse, long-rotted organic matter;

cover with old newspapers, cardboard;

install side walls;
drill holes for support stakes;

At the corners of the structure, connect the boards and stakes with self-tapping screws;
use a corner and a level to ensure that the structure “sits” in the ground exactly both horizontally and perpendicular to the joining corners;
continue to fill the raised part of the bed;
add dry grass, leaves and other unrotted organic matter;

further - humus, manure or compost;
the final layer is high-quality garden soil.

IMPORTANT. In fertile areas, before starting trench work, carefully remove the top layer of soil and set it aside. This is the turf you use for planting.

After all the steps, do not forget to water the bed to create a moist environment. In such conditions, the process of rotting inside will begin. Do not try to moisten each layer with water as you fill the trench. There is no need to rush, let everything go at a moderate speed. There is still time before planting, and the contents of the bed should rot and be loose, and not rot in a viscous slurry.

Video - Do-it-yourself warm beds

Warm beds with artificial heating

The concept is that:

water pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are laid on the drainage layer;
the pipe structure is connected to the electrical cable;
heating is controlled by the user (turning on and off the heat supply as needed, depending on the ground temperature).

IMPORTANT. Artificial heating is optimal for covered (tent) beds and greenhouses - the heat generated by the pipes is retained inside the system and is not sprayed in the open air.

The order and list of fillers may vary. In any case, the most important layers should remain:

bottom drainage (it is laid directly on natural soil);
additional insulation (prevents the “layer cake” from cooling from below, from the ground);
sand (occupies the location of the heating pipes) - plays the role of fine-grained drainage, helps retain heat, and facilitates the passage of irrigation water downwards).

Only after all these components is the fertile layer of soil placed at the top.

at dachas it is advisable to use an electric cable (after all country heating, as a rule, temporary and low-power);

in permanent private houses, you can connect directly to the heating (not forgetting to make a shut-off valve in case the house is heated, but the garden bed does not need to be heated at this time).

What type of heating is allowed? It can be of any type:

gas;
electrical;
steam;
water;
stove

Operating procedure

It's actually quite simple:

prepare layers (large drainage, synthetic insulation, sand);

lay water pipes. The scheme is a closed circuit (to ensure the circulation of warm water in a circle);

add a little more sand on top;

the final layer is directly fertile soil. Use good quality garden soil, as well as additional black soil. Keep in mind that the soil should nourish the plants well when heated;

Connect the greenhouse piping to the heating source.

In the absence of experience working with electricity, invite more help knowledgeable person. If you understand electrical installation work, the whole process will be elementary for you, and the design will be durable, efficient and reliable.

This article discusses beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to make for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn how to combine vegetable crops in one bed and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical recommendations for beginner gardeners.

Design proper beds in the garden will solve many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner of a summer cottage:

protection against erosion of soil in the garden when there is a large amount of precipitation or watering of plants. The sides of the bed will keep the nutritious soil in place, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles or streaks;

the possibility of forming the basis for creating a temporary greenhouse for the spring period. By installing high sides as fences, a multi-layer bed can be organized inside the structure, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result will be a neat greenhouse house;
improvement appearance vegetable gardens due to orderly and even plantings with beautiful framing;
creating boundaries to prevent the spread of weeds.

Making beds with your own hands from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the planting area, thanks to which weeds and harmful plants do not have the opportunity to spread widely. If the garden fence is dug to a greater depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds, which are unable to overcome this barrier, can no longer penetrate into the garden bed.

Pay attention! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and creeping wheatgrass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering large distances underground if left unconstrained.

Photos of interesting bed designs, recommendations for their creation. Tips for designing unusual landscape design on the site.

The most best place is an area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where there is shade in the morning or during the day. If the proposed construction area is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a vegetable garden.

How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design

The design of the beds is selected at an early stage of planning, when a place for the vegetable garden has already been selected.

Each type of beds has certain advantages:

raised or - the most efficient designs that are best suited for growing vegetable crops. Construction materials they are not expensive to create, and the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determines how much effort and time will be required to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of boards. On the Internet you can find photos of raised beds with your own hands; such structures do not have fencing. They also fall into the category of elevated structures;

container beds - will be beneficial in cases where site space is limited. Small, large and medium-sized pots are suitable for organizing such beds. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and herbs feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which can be moved to any location if desired;
beds in open ground- the oldest method of growing crops that are planted directly into the ground. In such conditions it is more difficult to obtain good harvest, so technology is often used joint landing vegetables in the garden.

Useful advice! If you plan to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.

How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips

Raised beds are most often made from wood. This material, in comparison with others, is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Such designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds made from boards have other advantages:

a simple maintenance system involving easy weeding, harvesting and watering of plants;
the ability to grow vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. A frame is made on the basis of the boards, which is subsequently filled with fertile soil purchased in the store, so there is no connection to the quality of the soil and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with rocky surfaces;

Box structures allow you to hold soil inside the bed. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of installing arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to secure these elements to the fence than to dig them into the soil;
Even without knowing how to properly make garden beds, any summer resident can cope with the manufacture of wooden box structures. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require expensive tools;
there is no chance that plants planted close to the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.

Pay attention! The environmental friendliness of the material allows you not to worry about getting into the ground. harmful substances. Wood is much safer than asbestos-cement sheets (slate). The exception is boards treated with chemicals designed to double the life of the material.

Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material

Summer residents most often create wooden structures based on materials found on the farm. To make beds, timber, round timber, slab, and lining can be used.

When it comes to purchasing boards in a store, you should pay special attention to the type of wood from which they are made:

a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;
pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to rotting while in the ground, so its service life is short. By using impregnations and antiseptics, the life of pine can be extended by a couple of years;
boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch is naturally impregnated with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its newness for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;

Boards made from acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so its processing will be more difficult. To work with acacia you will need a powerful electric tool.

Useful advice! It is not recommended to skimp on the quality of the material. Boards made from poor wood are susceptible to rapid rotting. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the garden beds, through which fertile soil will be washed away during rains and watering of plants.

Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures

Box beds have a rectangular shape and are made of boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident can handle its production. The main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.

height– many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not intended to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where a fence height of up to 0.7 m is acceptable. The technology for manufacturing such structures requires laying multi-layer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required; it is enough to limit it to 0.15-0.2 m. Excessive height of the sides is also unprofitable in economic terms, because their construction will require a lot of boards. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time high fences will swell and lose their attractive shape;

width – experienced summer residents It is recommended to choose a width equal to half the height of the person who will care for the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because during work a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side fence;
length– this parameter is practically unlimited. Although excessively long structures reduce the level of rigidity of the side rails, it is therefore recommended to choose a length within 4-6 m.

Useful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds, you should take into account that between them you need to organize passages 0.4-0.6 m wide. Only after this is considered the layout of structures on the site.

Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes

The method of combining crops is very effective in practice if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, plot owners use a special table to calculate the proximity of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors and provide them with protection from pests.

The correct proximity of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table

Many summer residents note that thanks to the proximity of beans as a seal for the beds where potatoes are grown, the amount of Colorado potato beetle. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from the white butterfly. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all, an excessive amount of marigolds in the garden can stifle the growth of cabbage.

Table of vegetable neighbors in the garden that create a successful tandem:

Name of vegetable crop	Plants for successful combination
strawberries	beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce
kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, onion, beets
peas	carrots, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant
onion	tomato, celery, beets, savory, carrots
beans	potatoes, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant
cucumber	radishes, peppers, peas, cabbage, beans
carrot	lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas
salad	strawberries, cucumber, carrots, radishes
pepper	salad, cucumber, beans
tomato	calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley

The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:

cabbage and strawberries;
onions and beans;
carrots and celery, dill, parsley;
cucumbers and potatoes.

Useful advice! In addition to the main crops, it is recommended to spot plant herbs and ornamental herbs in the garden bed. Thus, the garden will not only be beautiful, but also useful.

Examples of mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: popular schemes

A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions can produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of bed. Carrots on the same area yield approximately 6 kg of yield. When growing these crops together, you can get 9 kg of vegetables from 1 m². These plants create protective barriers against pests for each other, so the efficiency of the used area increases.

Of course, when planning to grow crops together in a garden bed, you need to group the plants based on their height so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different heights, but also grow at different rates. It is desirable that the compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of multi-tiered juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds makes it possible to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also promotes the rational use of solar energy.

High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of 0.8x0.8 m, not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (grind first).

To get excellent result When planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. Along the row with bush beans, it is installed so that each plant is located at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden bed. As a result, the bean and tomato bushes should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Useful advice! It is better to trim tomato stems for the winter, and as low as possible. On the contrary, it is recommended to leave beans untouched.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in beds by crop groups

Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same bed is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good harvests.

Advantages of proper crop rotation:

the likelihood of soil fatigue on the site is eliminated, since the same vegetable absorbs the same set of nutrients from the soil every year and does it from the same depth;
the spread of diseases and pests that affect plants of the same family is prevented;
it becomes possible to rationally use fertilizers.

The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in a garden bed involves planting plants from different families in the same area every year. The easiest way is to divide cultures into four groups:

Leaf crops - these include various types cabbage, green onions, lettuce, and spinach.
Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, pumpkin.
Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.
Root vegetables - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.

Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:

Sequence of landing by year	Recommended crops for planting
Sequence of landing by year	1st bed	2nd bed	3rd bed	4th bed
1 year	fruit	roots	legumes	leafy
2 year	roots	legumes	leafy	fruit
3 year	legumes	leafy	fruit	roots

Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in open ground: photos and recommendations

To grow cucumbers in open ground, beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the rains and temperatures drop. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has a good level of air and water permeability. If the soil on the site is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the soil to facilitate loosening.

Useful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite flour.

The process of preparing a bed for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. To do this, the site of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution must be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be increased by adding chicken manure or manure. This procedure is carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly into the trench or hole. After this, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.

How to make a bed for cucumbers: agrotechnical secrets

To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:

There should be no irrigation canals, streams or flowing reservoirs near the beds.
If the planting area is not protected, it is better to place the garden in a quiet place where there are no drafts.
Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil must be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out greatly.
Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than those grown in closed beds.
During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the plant's vines or turn them over.
Weeding of plants in open beds needs to be done more often than in closed ground.
It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with black film.

Cucumbers need a rich biological composition of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, and food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only does the fertility of the soil increase, but also heat is released, warming the soil. To prevent high temperatures from damaging the root system of cucumbers, experienced gardeners advise abundant watering.

Interesting fact! Sometimes decomposition organic fertilizers occurs so actively that the soil in the garden bed warms up to 80° C. Under the influence of such high temperature Many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the soil die. As a result, natural sterilization of the soil occurs.

There are several ways to grow cucumbers in open ground. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.

How to make cucumber beds in the garden with a bookmark

To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured in. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. You can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The layer is poured warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and soil.

A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, you will not need to add compost to the top layer, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.

Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:

convenient watering system;
stagnation of water is eliminated;
In spring there is no need to dig up the soil, just loosen the soil.

Plants can be planted on such a nutrient basis much earlier than is customary in conventional beds. It is not recommended to use beds with filling in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.

Warm surface beds for cucumbers in open ground

This type of warm beds for growing cucumbers is built on the surface of prepared soil. This technology will the best option for areas that are located in lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with film. As a result, it is formed greenhouse effect, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their yield.

Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is filled with sand, then wood waste. Next comes a layer of organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is filled with a mixture consisting of soil.

Useful advice! Vegetable and fruit skins, fallen leaves, and eggshells (crushed into powder) can be used as organic waste.

Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the box bed, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, the structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you will need to install plastic arcs and stretch plastic film over them. Thus, heating increases and it becomes possible to get an early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.

Raised beds for cucumbers in open ground

Warm beds with a raised structure are used in cases where the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, the soil is fully warmed up, allowing the harvest to be achieved at early stages. If they get too close to the garden groundwater, the bed is raised high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil that is oversaturated with moisture. Stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater, are planted in a similar way.

As borders for these structures they are used various materials. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of bed can even be installed in the middle of the lawn. If you frame it in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised vegetable garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.

As an alternative solution, you can build a mound on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed; the optimal width is 1 m. Do not raise decorative vegetable garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and contributes to the rapid heating of the soil.

To speed up the decomposition process of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria is in the spring. After treating the beds, you should wait at least a week before planting plants. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the soil has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen and the drug itself is evenly distributed.