Any gardener, faced with a lack of space, poor germination or low yield of crops, the prevalence of diseases or pests, tries to optimize conditions external environment, without even realizing that most of these problems can be solved in a much simpler way. So, if instead of planting vegetables in species groups, you use mixed plantings of vegetables, you can not only rationalize the use of land, but also provide some plants with protection from weeds and pests, others with immunity from diseases, and others with nutrient medium, fourth – improved taste qualities.

But, before mixing all the available crops, it is necessary to clearly understand under what conditions they behave. certain types plants, otherwise the result may be completely opposite to what was expected. Here are some basic rules that will prevent plants from harming each other:

1. The soil should not be dry and loose, but have good breathability.
2. Cultures of the same family should not be mixed.
3. A species with a much more developed root system will inevitably displace all others.
4. Low-growing light-loving plants should not be in the shade of large neighbors.
5. The best results are obtained by planting the main species (up to 60%), diluted with one or two species with different ripening periods.

Now let's look at examples of mixed planting of vegetables in the garden and the advantages of just such combinations.

Companions for cucumbers and tomatoes

These two plants occupy, perhaps, the first place in the number of unsuccessful attempts to grow together with other vegetables. Such statistics are caused, rather, by the wrong choice of neighbors and unscrupulous care. Let's try to understand the origins of such errors. Let's start with cucumbers. They belong to the pumpkin family and are a friendly plant that will easily get along with:

• legumes;
• cabbage;
• onions;
• garlic;
• dill;
• eggplants.

However, the best results will be achieved by corn or beans, because, firstly, they will not create a dense shadow, providing light-loving cucumbers with a sufficient amount solar energy, secondly, they do not require the same microelements for their development as the main plant, which means that the depletion of the soil will be uniform and not too strong. Under no circumstances should you combine cucumbers with potatoes or herbs.

To get a harvest of healthy and strong tomatoes, you can use an unusual combination scheme in which they will be combined with three plants at once: lettuce, spinach and radishes. All of them are planted in the garden bed in two rows without additional spaces according to the pattern: tomato - lettuce - spinach - radish - tomato, etc. In addition, good results will be obtained by planting tomatoes together with the following plants:

• beans;
• carrot;
• celery;
• parsley;
• basil;
• mint.

In case of pest invasion, you can protect tomatoes by planting borage between their rows. Its smell perfectly repels harmful insects.

An interesting effect can be achieved by planting between rows of cucumbers and tomatoes of certain colors, such as marigolds. They will enrich the soil and attract beneficial insects, which will pollinate vegetables, helping to increase productivity. Some sources, by the way, recommend in this case the scheme tomato - marigolds - cucumber - marigolds - tomato, etc.

What to plant with potatoes?

Potato is not a very sociable plant, capable, thanks to its developed root system and tall shoots, of destroying many weak crops, but, in turn, suffers from proximity to strong and tall ones. You need to select vegetables for mixed plantings with it very carefully. Potatoes do not tolerate:

• pumpkin;
• sunflower;
• tomatoes;
• cucumbers;
• kohlrabi;
• raspberries

However, it will bear fruit excellently without disturbing its neighbors if they are:

• cabbage;
• legumes;
• eggplant;
• carrot;
• corn;
• horseradish.

As in the situations described above, marigolds can give good results. However, it would be best to take into account the parameters of crop rotation and use potatoes as an intercrop that uses resources not affected by the predecessor and unnecessary to the successor. For example, having finished collecting lettuce in the spring (leaf or cress, or better yet, a combination of both), we plant early-ripening varieties of potatoes in the same bed, and after they ripen, we use the soil for growing Chinese cabbage and kohlrabi. In this case, they need to be planted in checkerboard pattern. Other types of plants that develop well after harvesting potatoes are strawberries and wild strawberries, so this land plot Excellent for propagating these plants through rosettes.

Zucchini, melons and pumpkins

All these vegetables belong to the pumpkin family and have general requirements to growing conditions. They are friendly to almost everyone, with the possible exception of the notorious potato. But garlic will be the best companion for them - it will repel pests and protect plants from diseases. You can plant garlic randomly, but orderly rotation will give the best results. Other plants that cucurbits feel comfortable with are:

• corn;
• radish;

In addition, the use of colors and herbs, which attract pollinators and protect from harmful influences. Some herbs can also improve the taste of zucchini and pumpkins by adding valuable microelements and organic matter to the soil. These plants include:

• nasturtium;
• marigold;
• borage;
• savory;
• tarragon.

The latter is a universal “thinner” for almost any vegetables, not only harmonizing with certain types, but also smoothing out their interspecies differences by stabilizing the soil composition.

Combination with cabbage

Cabbage (both white cabbage and broccoli, kohlrabi, etc.) is an extremely capricious plant. He has both friends and enemies. The latter include tall climbing plants, primarily climbing beans and grapes, as well as:

• peas;
• tomatoes;
• strawberry;
• mustard.

What was used to decorate the numerous flower beds in Versailles in the 17th century? The question may cause confusion among many readers. Many will answer that flowers bloomed there. But in fact, tons of vegetables were grown in the country palace of the French court.

And the Sun King Louis XIV walked with his retinue between the beds where cabbage, carrots, potatoes and other crops grew.

Even then, park workers managed to combine planting on one bed different types. For some period, the Chevalier de Beauche was responsible for the maintenance of the garden. He registered:

• successful and unsuccessful combinations of plants in the beds;
• controlled the supply of food to the royal table;
• kept records of the grown crops;
• planned where and what would be planted this year, as well as in the future.

Interesting records from those times have been preserved. De Bose found that certain combinations prevent the development of diseases. In certain combinations, plants begin to inhibit each other.

The researcher tried to systematize the combination garden crops among themselves. I even drew several diagrams of crop distribution. The records reveal conditions for mutual “attraction” between different cultures.

On modern vegetable garden Planting different vegetables together will allow you to optimally use the space. Therefore, it makes sense to consider options for combining plantings.

Attention! More than three hundred years ago, the main conclusion was made: different plants can protect each other from pests.

Planning for future plantings begins from the moment of harvesting. Most often, the complete liberation of the territory is carried out in the fall. At the same time, the main sowings are done before winter. winter garlic, onions and a number of other crops with a long growing season.

They distribute the territory based on the needs of the family or business. Then they plan what will be planted and in what place. Not all gardeners use the compaction technique, although it makes it possible, without reducing the yield of the main plant, to obtain additional products from accompanying crops.

It turns out that such “sharing” provides certain advantages:

Crop rotation in the garden

Growing in one place, the bush takes food of a certain composition. The soil becomes depleted, preventing it from receiving further harvest previous year.

Agronomy is a science that combines experimentation with statistical observations that can be carried out over decades. Data is accumulated and systematized. Only then are recommendations formed on what and how to do in order to grow agricultural plants with the greatest efficiency.

Agronomy textbooks suggest seven-, nine-, and five-field crop rotations. But they are mainly relevant for large agricultural production.

For summer cottages, it is enough to organize the movement of plantings so that they are repeated no more than once every three years. For this time will happen updating the microenvironment in each bed. It’s even better if the return occurs every four years.

By organizing movement in this way, you can constantly increase soil fertility and achieve high yields. The personal garden has important feature, which does not exist in an industrial field, is the gradual removal of food from the beds, and not a one-time mass harvest.

For example, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and a number of other crops ripen gradually. Spicy herbs are not pulled out by the roots, but carefully cut. Therefore, a receipt pipeline is created fresh vegetables to the consumer table.

In crop rotation, it is advisable to apply to some crops organic fertilizers, charging the soil for several years in advance, there is no need to add organic matter to other plants.

Here mineral supplements will bring more benefits. There are also vegetables that do not need additional feeding; they sell the reserves that their predecessors manage to make.

When drawing up a crop rotation plan, you need to take into account optimal movements, then a stable harvest from your own garden beds will be ensured for many years.

Good neighborhood

A whole group of plants interacts well with others. As a result, the yield of both crops increases. They complement each other.

It has been noticed that basil planted near tomatoes improves their taste and contributes to earlier fruiting. It seems that there is only a 5...7 day head start, but over the additional period the yield per bush increases by 15...20%.

If dill is grown in cabbage beds, the white cabbage will avoid laying its eggs on the heads of cabbage. As a result, the heads of cabbage will grow without being damaged by green caterpillars, which can completely destroy the harvest of cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables.

The symbiosis of onions grown for feathers or turnips with carrots is especially good. Both plants are damaged by flies. But there is something different for everyone:

• The onion fly can ruin the feathers and turnips on the onion. However, she cannot stand the smell of carrot tops;
• The carrot fly settles on the root crop, gnaws holes in it and damages the tops. The presence of onions is terrible for this insect. She avoids the places where he is raised.

Attention! Onions and garlic go well with most vegetables.

As they grow, they release a powerful stream of phytoncides, which drives away pests that want to share the fruits of his labor with the gardener. Therefore, in spring and summer, when planting seedlings, you should make sure that there are bulbous crops nearby.

Legumes growing next to other plants feed their neighbors with nitrogen. Nodule bacteria on the roots of beans, peas or lupine produce digestible nitrogen, which promotes growth, but does not accumulate in the form of nitrate compounds. Once the legumes have grown, almost any plant can be planted.

Spinach is eaten abroad; in Russia it is less popular. The benefit is that it promotes moisture accumulation. Therefore, in a potato field, spinach and potatoes are neighbors that complement each other.

Schemes for placing neighbors when planting together in the garden

The video provides interesting information about the compatibility of plants in the garden:

When creating compositions from vegetables, you need to adhere to several rules:

• Plants should be placed so that tall ones are located to the north, and low ones should be placed on the south side.
• Along the way, it is necessary to take into account preferences for the amount of light; there are some plants that do not benefit from direct sunlight. Tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants prefer to be in the sun, and sweet pepper Grows best in limited sunlight;
• plants of the same family inhibit each other, so you should combine different groups and families of vegetables, then a more interesting result will be obtained.

It is worth considering combination options:

Tomatoes and bush beans are an excellent symbiosis. They complement each other. Such groups can be placed in open ground, as well as in the greenhouse.

In a wide garden bed, parsley and strawberries will complement each other; the remaining plants will provide protection from pests and also improve nutrition in the root part.

Dill and cucumber are good combination. The spider mite forgets about cucumbers. Aphids and scab also do not tolerate the proximity of spicy crops. You can complement the neighborhood with parsley. A good result is obtained if you first plant calendula.

The original combination came from France, where it is often used in flower beds. Vegetables are placed in flower beds even in cities and squares. City residents and visitors enjoy strolling past such beds.

Carrots, marjoram and sage - this combination also came from France. It turns out that such a neighborhood allows you to get a fairly decent harvest of each crop.

An unexpected combination came from Germany. Cabbage and beets are friends. Dill and parsley can be an excellent addition for them.

Also an interesting combination. This combination is recommended by residents of northern France and Belgium. Even on the islands of Great Britain they often use a similar grouping of plants in the garden bed.

Another combination, her homeland is Belgium. In the Netherlands, this combination is used when growing vegetables in greenhouses.

Another combination of vegetables from the French.

The radish leaves the garden bed first, but it protects the germination of other plants.

When engaged in gardening and gardening, many farmers are faced with the problem of lack of space, as well as sometimes inexplicable incompatibilities between different plants. Which, in turn, leads to a decrease in yield and various diseases that impair plant growth and the quality of the resulting fruit. Mixed plantings vegetables, the diagrams of which are drawn up taking into account all the features, can solve many problems.

The Science of Mixed Plantings

Allelopathy is a science that studies the influence on each other and the ability of them to coexist together. The proximity of vegetables in the greenhouse and mixed plantings are determined taking into account the influencing factors. Every plant secretes through its leaves and roots various substances, which, when released into the soil, can either be absorbed by other plants or cause harm to them.

Some species tend to stimulate the growth of accompanying plantings and have a protective effect on them from pests, but at the same time they can also be oppressive. Besides the obvious, there is another reason to create mixed plantings - to save space.

Schemes of mixed and compacted vegetable plantings

It is very important when drawing up a plan for future plantings to consider:

1. Climatic conditions in a given area may vary, as some places are drier and others wetter. The effects of wind, precipitation and frost must also be taken into account in the calculations.
2. It is necessary to know the characteristics of each specific site, its soil composition, impact sunlight to this area, as well as its protection from the aggressive influences of nature.

Making a plan

These parameters should form the basis of the garden planting strategy to obtain the highest results from each meter of area. Drawing up a plan begins with studying the characteristics of the site and the characteristics of each individual meter of land. Schemes of mixed beds (planting vegetables in a garden bed, as is known, vary in purpose) must be drawn up taking into account all climatic and agrotechnical parameters of the soil.

Advantages of the method

Advantages of mixed plantings:

Smart combination

Alternating crops with different requirements for nutrition and soil composition allows you to avoid partial or complete depletion of the soil and the destruction of any individual nutrients needed by plants.

Planting vegetables together can improve the quality of life of neighboring crops and can also affect the taste and nutritional value of the fruit.

Main and accompanying plants

Mixed plantings of vegetables, their arrangement patterns and the principles that guide the gardener when composing them are based on simple knowledge. In practice this method There are such concepts as a companion plant, or accompanying plant, as well as the main crop. The main plant is the target of planting, and the satellite plant is used to fill gaps and produce larger yields.

Mixed planting tactics

In the role of accompanying plants, aromatic green fertilizers are more often used, a number of which can benefit their neighbors. The main crops are usually vegetables and are slow-ripening, small-sized specimens, with fast-ripening species in between.

This tactic is very effective. While the main culture is slowly growing and developing, the accompanying culture has time to grow, making room for sufficient development of the main one. This is the main principle of drawing up a plan and scheme for mixed plantings.

Preferred neighborhood

In order to organically fit into your plan various mixed plantings of vegetables and their arrangement on the site, you need to know the properties of each plant and its compatibility with others. It is convenient to consider the properties inherent in individual garden crops in the form of a table. Mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden must be made taking into account the needs of each crop.

Correct Neighborhood Table

Name of culture	Good neighborhood	Undesirable neighborhood O
Basil	All crops, especially tomatoes and lettuce	Ruta
Eggplant	Beans, thyme	-
Beans	Cucumbers, potatoes, spinach, corn, radishes, buckwheat and mustard. If beans act as the main plants, then lavender, rosemary, yarrow, oregano, and borage will be good neighbors for them.	Any garlic, wormwood, marigold
Grape	Corn, potatoes, radishes, beans, radishes, rye	Onions, soybeans, barley, cabbage
Peas	Goes well with carrots, rice, various salads, cucumbers, turnips	Onions, garlic, tomatoes
Cabbage	All varieties are excellent neighbors for bush beans, salads, buckwheat, celery, beets, borage, carrots, and spinach. To protect cabbage from harmful insects, various direct fragrant plants are planted next to it: dill, sage, mint, rosemary, thyme, nasturtium, marigolds	Does not go well with grapes and strawberries
Potato	Gets along with legumes, cabbage, radishes and various salads. Potatoes will help in repelling pests: tansy, marigolds, nasturtium, coriander	It is highly not recommended to plant sunflower and celery next to each other.
Strawberry	It is good to plant spinach, sage, and parsley nearby. The mutual influence with beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, peas, and soy is especially favorable	Cabbage
Corn	All cultures	Beetroot, celery
Onion	The best combination with beets, strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, spinach	Beans, peas, legumes, sage
Carrot	Peas. Loyal to the neighborhood with potatoes, onions, lettuce	Dill, fennel. Also, there is no place for it under an apple tree, as the root vegetables will be very bitter
cucumbers	Good companions for beans, beans, beets, garlic, onions, radishes, spinach, as well as dill and chamomile	Undesirable proximity to tomatoes, since their maintenance conditions are very different
Pepper	Basil	It's hard to get along with beans. A bad neighbor for him and fennel
Parsley	Pairs well with strawberries, peas, tomatoes, asparagus, salads	-
Radish	Salads, beans. Radish plantings can be combined with tomatoes, onions, parsley, garlic, strawberries and peas	Planting next to hyssop is highly discouraged, as this imparts great bitterness to the fruit.
Turnip	Goes well with peas	Doesn't go well with mustard and asparagus at all.
Beet	It is an excellent companion for cabbage, radishes, radishes and salad. Next to the beets you can also place beds with garlic, strawberries, celery, and cucumbers	-
Celery	White cabbage. Feels great next to cucumbers and tomatoes, soybeans, beans and peas	Neighborhood with corn, parsley, potatoes and carrots is extremely undesirable
Tomatoes	They go well with basil, celery, parsley, spinach and beans. Planting next to cabbage, corn, garlic, carrots, beets is neutral in its influence	Do not place next to kohlrabi cabbage, fennel and dill, potatoes, eggplants
Pumpkin	A responsive neighbor for peas and beans. Coexists favorably with corn	Next to cabbage, cucumbers, salads, onions, carrots
Beans	Friendly with almost all cultures	Onions, fennel, garlic, peas
Spinach	All cultures	-
Garlic	Friendly neighborhood with tomatoes, beets, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers	Negatively affects the taste of peas, beans, cabbage

Today you learned about what mixed planting of vegetables is. Schemes for their composition are created taking into account the preferences of each individual plant, as well as the conditions of its maintenance, which should be the basis for calculating future beds. Using such a progressive method provides many advantages, which are especially important to take advantage of when striving to obtain maximum benefits and large yields from every square meter of area.

Proper placement of plants in beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who planted pumpkin, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful juxtaposition of vegetables in their garden beds. The table of “friends” and “enemies” of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Successful garden neighbors

Planting vegetables together not only makes full use of the available land, but also has a positive effect on the growth and productivity of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart planning of a vegetable garden and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers from their own experience.

It is known that many plants secrete chemical compounds, which can both promote the growth of neighbors and suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another type, or repelling pests. Each crop has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of joint planting

Shared boarding rules cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. By following them, a person receives the following benefits:

Each plant has different neighbors, so you need to carefully consider the layout of your garden before you start mixed planting of vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when the cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good next to tomatoes, but it’s better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with aromatic herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and mint - white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these fragrant plants emit large number phytoncides that have a good effect on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, and planting flowers next to vegetables will help attract them - they will not only be beneficial, but will also serve as decoration for the garden. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the soil, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes.. Their roots are inhabited by nodule bacteria that process nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to nearby plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, so legumes also serve as a good precursor for crops that require this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that works well with many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb beneficial elements from the garden bed. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing while neighboring vegetables are still small size and do not occupy the entire garden bed.

All cultures prefer different friends - it is necessary to take into account many factors in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table for the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants scare away or lure feeders to themselves. vegetable crops insects or animals. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do this correctly, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in your garden or eliminate them altogether. Different cultures will help protect your garden from the following pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to plant friends that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are also very bad neighbors for some species that inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the harvest. The consequences of planting such “enemies” together are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough to simply plant suitable crops nearby and protect them from enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other, both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them in right time so that vegetables grown too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined in their preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The crop that needs them most is planted in the center of the planting, and less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You should never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves in one bed - one of them will definitely destroy the neighbor.

For proper cultivation vegetables, you need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties potatoes as predecessors, but does not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of him in the garden. In both small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this especially applies to beets, chard and spinach.

Vegetables grow faster in a greenhouse - this is also worth taking into account if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal directions (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown in the south sunny side greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature and make sure that none of them interferes with the other.

Planting vegetables together is a very effective and useful way which will help grow good harvest even with unfavorable conditions or on small area. Using various tables, you can easily create your own combinations suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in beds

UTILITIES ON THE BEDS

Use crop areas to the fullest. For example, for radishes, planting can be done according to a 4x4 cm pattern, completely sowing the allotted area. For carrots, an area of ​​5x5 cm is sufficient, and for beets, 9x9 cm. Turnips and summer radishes can be planted according to a pattern of 8x8 cm; for late black radish, an area of ​​12x12 cm is required.

Cauliflower can be planted according to a 30x30 cm pattern, and cabbage - 40x40 cm. At the same time, erect (tall) marigolds can be planted between the plants of any cabbage and the plantings can be compacted with lettuce or spinach and even radishes.

It is better to sow cucumbers in one row every 20-25 cm, and for tall tomatoes, formed into one stem, an area of ​​30×30 cm is enough, that is, on one square meter I place 9-10 plants. For non-stepchildren, low-growing tomatoes, the area should be left larger (40x40 cm), since the main harvest comes from the stepsons, and therefore the bush becomes spreading.

Peppers will make do with a space of 25x25 cm. But bush dill Buyan (or Salut), as well as leaf parsley, in particular Volshebnitsa, require the same distance between plants as cauliflower, then you will really get a big harvest.

It is best to plant the beds located in the garden with more than one crop, but to make a large communal apartment out of the bed, populating it with different inhabitants who are compatible with each other.

CULTURAL COMPATIBILITY

There are plants that get along well side by side, protecting each other with their smell from pests, are mutual biostimulants, and there are warring ones that suppress each other in every possible way, for example, beans are very friendly, almost all plants are friends with them, but fennel is fierce for everyone enemy.

When planting plants on small area This fact must be taken into account so that hostility does not arise in the garden beds. In this case, we must remember three factors: you cannot plant crops belonging to the same species next to or after each other, those that tolerate the same nutrients in the same ratio, have the same habit, that is, the same height of the above-ground part and the same depth of the roots. In addition, plant roots secrete mycotoxins to protect their territory from invasion by uninvited strangers, so the compatibility of plant root systems must also be taken into account.

Beds planted with different compatible plants resist pests much better than beds planted with one particular crop, which has been noticed by many amateur gardeners.

The mixture of their smells fools pests, even omnivores, because it prevents them from releasing the smell of those plants - their breadwinners, on which they feed. And pests, just in case, avoid such communal apartments. If you don't believe me, check it out.

This summer, sow the bed intended for carrots along the perimeter of the crown with seeds of low-growing marigolds. Then sow a row of parsnips (white carrots) or broccoli seeds down the center. Stepping back 20 cm on each side, sow one row of radishes on each side, then a row of carrots, a row of nigella onions (or small sets), again a row of carrots on each side.

Instead of broccoli, you can sow lettuce. In the middle of the bed, sow seeds of tall marigolds every 15-20 cm. Cover the bed with double lutrasil. When frosts and the flight of vegetable flies have passed (after cherry blossoms), lutrasil can be removed.

Such sowing in the North-West can be done at the very end of April - beginning of May, as soon as the soil thaws (the flowering time of coltsfoot). At the end of May, the garden bed will be freed from radishes, then from lettuce, and the feeding and lighting area will increase for other grown crops.

COMPATIBLE FITTINGS

Eggplant - beans.

Broccoli - beets, sage.

Peas - eggplant, calendula, corn, cucumber, radish, carrots.

Pear - see apple tree.

Strawberries - marigolds, borage, lettuce, beans, garlic, spinach.

Head cabbage - anise, potatoes, onions, peppermint, rosemary, chamomile, beets, celery, dill.

Cauliflower - celery.

Calendula, garlic - gladioli, strawberries, roses, currants, tulips. Kohlrabi - onion, lettuce, beets, cucumber, spices.

Corn - peas, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans.

Onions and garlic - strawberries, carrots, chamomile, beets, celery, tomato, savory.

Raspberry - plum, apple tree, calendula.

Carrots - peas, onions, radishes, radishes, rosemary, lettuce, tomato, sage. Nasturtium - most vegetables, phlox.

Cucumber - peas, corn, sunflower, radish, beans, tomato, cabbage. Parsley - asparagus, tomato.

Sunflower - cucumber. Radishes - peas, nasturtium, cucumber, lettuce.

Radish - beets, spinach, carrots, parsley, tomato, pumpkin, cucumber.

Turnips - peas. Salad - strawberries, carrots, cucumber, radishes.

Beets - kohlrabi, onions, radishes, cabbage, beans, beans, lettuce.

Celery - cabbage, onion, tomato, beans, cauliflower, leek.

Tomato - calendula, leftover, onion, nasturtium, parsley, celery, asparagus. Pumpkin - corn.

Dill, spinach - radishes, turnips, cabbage.

Beans - cabbage, potatoes, carrots, cucumber, savory and most garden crops, except beets.

Phlox - nasturtium.

Apple tree - spruce, calendula, raspberry, tansy, tomato, dill.

INCOMPATIBLE LANDINGS

Eggplant - other nightshade crops.

Cherry - raspberry.

Peas - gladioli, potatoes, onions, garlic.

Strawberries - cabbage.

Cabbage - strawberries, tomatoes, beans.

Onions, garlic - peas, beans.

Carrots - dill, parsley, celery and other umbrella crops.

Cucumber - potatoes, zucchini, aromatic herbs.

Pepper - beets.

Sunflower - potatoes.

Beets - beans, spinach.

Tomato - other nightshade crops, including potatoes, cabbage. Pumpkin - potatoes.

Beans - gladioli, onions, garlic, beets.

Not a single plant tolerates the proximity of fennel and hyssop, so they must be planted in a separate corner of the garden. You cannot plant strawberries after potatoes because of nematodes, as well as after tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. Do not leave the pine tree - this is the wintering place for many pests, in particular carrot psyllids, as well as spores of the columnar rust fungus. Remove buckthorn from the area and mow down sedge - breeding grounds for goblet rust.

CROP ROTATION ON ONE BED

If you have only one or two vegetable beds, then you need to do crop rotation in one bed, populating it like a large one. communal apartment, caring only that neighbors do not quarrel with each other, but, on the contrary, treat each other in a friendly manner. You can select them by carefully reading the list of compatible plants. For example, we plant beets, compacting them with early radishes, planted between the beet rows before planting. When the beets grow up and need a lot of space, the radishes will already be removed and will not interfere with the beets. We plant 1-2 m of the bed with beets, and then we plant celery seedlings, just one row across the bed. Next, you can plant several plants of any cabbage, compacting the plantings with early planted spinach, then sow carrots according to a 5x5 cm pattern on just one meter, followed by onion sets on one meter, then you can plant lettuce, followed by parsley. When there is room for lettuce, we will plant late radishes. Next year we will move all the crops forward, and the beets will be at the end of the bed.

SEALING FITTINGS - IN CRIMSON BUT NOT IN OFFENSE

We plant corn in one row in the center of the bed, beans on both sides of it, and carrots on the edges. Or we alternate rows of corn with rows of ground cucumbers. The direction of the beds, as always, is north - south. Do not be afraid that the cucumbers or beans will curl the corn - it will not suffer from this, and at the same time it will protect the beans and cucumbers from the winds. A row of beans can be used to divide strawberry plantings; such proximity improves the taste of the berries, and planting one spinach plant among four lettuce plants improves the taste of the salad.

Nasturtium and marigold are friends of vegetables, disorienting with their smell insects that fly around them because they do not find their breadwinners among them.

Sow early carrots in the center of the bed. When the time comes, plant cabbage seedlings on both sides of it, alternating them with marigolds, and plant nettles at the ends of the bed. Or plant a row of cabbage in the center of the bed, beets on the sides, and plant the sides of the bed with nasturtiums.

Or plant celery along the edges of the bed, and a row of marigolds in the center, and cauliflower on either side of them.

You can use the bed twice: sow spinach in the center of the bed as early as possible, and early turnips or radishes on the sides of it. When you harvest the spinach, sow winter radishes in its place, and after harvesting turnips or radishes, sow late carrots.