Still its quality is better, and somehow more time. So let's get started...
Who needs a warm bed and why?
Warm beds are needed to a greater extent in those regions where the summer is too short. Here we have Perm region There was no summer at all this year! It's pure autumn...(((
And if not Warm beds, and in general, if not Natural Farming Methods, we wouldn’t have a harvest, just as practically none of our fellow countrymen have one now.
That’s why we make Warm beds year after year open ground, and in the greenhouse too! And only thanks to our efforts, we get a decent harvest, despite any unfavorable weather conditions.
Precisely the Warm bed may extend summer for our plants, and even create it!
Warm beds are made by those Who wants get a harvest of tomatoes, a bucket or two per bush, already ripe!
Warm beds make Te, Who wants harvest a bucket of peppers from a bush, already ripe!
Warm beds make Te, Who wants get a harvest of watermelons, melons and eggplants that ripen directly on the vine at an earlier date!
Warm beds are made by all supporters of Natural farming! I also like to make compost raised beds - this is also a unique way of composting in modern processing, but Permaculture design is already underway here, although one does not interfere with the other!
Yes! - It’s a little hard to make them, but what an effect! At first I asked my husband to dig a trench, but now I can easily do it myself, since the land has already become light and soft after so many years!
So, first things first - we are preparing today - a Warm bed!
First what needs to be done is dig a trench 40 - 50 cm deep.
Trench bottom lay out or cardboard, or black film(so that food does not go into the depths and to retain heat). I don’t like these films, in fact, there are all sorts of plastic bottles at the bottom, so I use cardboard everywhere! It provides warmth and decomposes, and the worms have a place to hibernate!
Then we start in layers fill the trench with organic matter, alternating carbonaceous materials with nitrogenous ones, and you already know that everything green is nitrogenous, and everything brown and gray is carbonaceous.
We trample each layer more firmly with our feet, spill it with water and pour it with the EM preparation. For several years now I have been using not EM preparations, but liquid from my vermicompost! And there are much more microorganisms in it than in all these purchased drugs.
But if you have not yet acquired your own worm farm, it is not yet time for you, then use preparations, because bacteria and microorganisms must be introduced into a warm bed, especially if you are just starting the transition to Natural farming, and previously the earth was dug up - that means it contains There are no local microorganisms at all...
The bottom layer can be laid old trees, stumps, branches- anything larger will serve as drainage.
The next layer is green mass - you can use tops of the harvested crop, you can have grass, anything fresh and green - you can use kitchen waste.
Next layer, for example, leaf litter
And then again green or kitchen waste. And don’t forget to trample and water each layer.
Next layer - cardboard, newspapers, and again greens or waste on top, maybe unripe compost.
And the very top of the bed cover with earth the one that was taken from her.
So, total in a couple of hours, you will make the best thing ever A warm, nutritious and luxurious garden bed.
And you can cover the edges of the bed with anything, or you can cover it with nothing at all. The main thing is that in the end, your layer “pie” is raised above ground level by 20 centimeters. The total is 50 + 20 cm = 70 cm of pure organic matter!
But that's not all! Now we sow green manure in the garden before winter or mulch for the winter, for example, leaves. I also do this: I spread rabbit bedding over the beds and cover it with cardboard on top, securing it so that it doesn’t blow away! I just have nowhere to put this manure... That's it - the beds are ready for winter!
Tell me, will the plants want to thrive in such a bed? Yes, I wish I could grow up there myself!))) There is so much food, the stormy life of our soil inhabitants - our helpers - will be in full swing all winter, and when this whole thing catches fire in the spring, imagine how much warmth it will be!
Yes, such a bed is simply teeming not only with earthworms, but with millions of beneficial microorganisms and bacteria, which contribute to an excellent harvest - they restore soil fertility.
The main thing is that the layers are thicker and don’t forget to trample them down so that there is a lot of everything - in a thick layer! And pour EMochka on each layer.
If you make a bed in the spring, then do not plant seedlings in such a bed right away - they will start to burn as soon as you make it - almost on the second or third day!
In this case, you need to do this: make good holes in the garden bed, wider and deeper - the size of a bucket! And you fill these holes with a good soil mixture - you can compost. What does this give us?
It’s simple: while the plants (planted seedlings) are getting stronger and getting used to the new place, they begin to develop a root system in the first two weeks. And this one root system will develop precisely in this poured compost!
And during this time, the organic matter in the garden bed will burn out, powerful heat comes from below because of this, and microorganisms and worms begin to decompose the burnt-out organic matter, turning it into accessible food for our plants! Beauty!
Now, what else I want to add - many questions were asked, such as: Is it possible to plant root crops in such a bed in the first year? Is it possible not to remove the compost from it every year?
Can! Look here - the effect of such a bed is maximum- first two years, but in general the effect lasts 5 years. It depends on what you put into it, of course! If the bed was made conscientiously, the layers are all thick and at the same time compacted tightly, a variety of organic matter and its alternation, microorganisms... Then such a bed will have a positive effect for at least 5 years!
And you don’t have to disassemble it, but alternate crops on it for five years: the first year the most demanding ones, peppers, eggplants, etc. In the second year less demanding ones, in the third year root vegetables, in the fourth year potatoes, in the fifth year various greens and herbs, for example !
Then you plant your most demanding crops on another bed - next year you can lay another bed like this and plant them on it. And again you alternate for 5 years.
Thus, you can do one or two per year warm beds! And you don’t strain yourself and always plant everything differently, the crops walk around the garden! And you won't have to run around with buckets...
If you plan to grow your own tomatoes, eggplants, etc. in the same place, then in the second year (or this fall) you dismantle the top layer of the ridge: instead of the organic matter embedded in it, you will see compost of the best quality!
Then you scoop it out from there and spread it around the garden: under bushes, in beds, and so on... And in this bed you put fresh organic matter! I seem to have explained it clearly... What do you think?
This is how we extend the summer for our heat-loving vegetables! It's really a great idea, isn't it?
Haven't you made a garden bed like this yet? You still don't have it???
If you need help in developing the site and in everything related to Natural farming overall you can get Individual consultation! This will help avoid mistakes and speed up the process of restoring the land!
I would be grateful for the response from everyone who is capable of doing an unconditionally good deed! You can help us, we really need your help! Do GOOD - and it will come back to you!
In northern latitudes and middle lane peppers are planted in May-June, depending on weather conditions, after the end of spring frosts. Usually, after planting tomatoes, they begin to plant peppers.
Good predecessors of pepper: perennial herbs, melons, pumpkin, carrots, onions, cabbage, zucchini.
Bad predecessors of pepper: tomato, eggplant, potato.
- Preparing the soil for peppers in spring. (About a week before planting the peppers). For digging add (per 1 m2):
- potassium sulfate (1 teaspoon),
- superphosphate (1 tablespoon),
- wood ash (1 cup),
- half a bucket of last year's compost or humus
An alternative may be ready-made complex mineral fertilizers.
! Pepper does not tolerate chlorine very well.
This must be taken into account when using fertilizers. For example, chlorine-free fertilizer potassium sulfate. After applying fertilizer, dig up the soil shallowly, loosen and level it, and pour warm water on it. Cover with transparent plastic wrap. Within a week the ground will warm up well and now you can start planting.
! We must remember: that pepper flowers are capable of self-pollination and cross-pollination, so peppers should not be planted next to each other different varieties. For example, sweet and bitter. This will affect taste qualities fruits
Pepper seedlings are ready for planting when plants have 7-8 true leaves, 15-25 cm tall, when buds begin to form.
Planting peppers necessary in a greenhouse. Do this in the evening.
- Plant plants at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other, half a meter between rows.
- The holes are made large enough to plant the plant along with a lump of earth from the pot. Spill generously with water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- After the liquid in the hole is absorbed, deepen the seedling slightly, sprinkle with soil and water again.
- For the first 10 days, the pepper will “sore” and grow slowly, during which time the root system takes root. It is necessary to do shallow loosening.
- Two weeks after planting the seedlings, the pepper will begin to bloom. At this time, the plants need to be fed.
1 feeding:
- superphosphate (40 g), ammonium nitrate (30 g), potassium sulfate (20 g) per 10 liters of warm water;
- superphosphate no more than 5 (g), urea (10 g) per 10 liters of water. Water 1 liter of solution under each root;
- complex mineral fertilizers;
A month after planting the seedlings, the peppers will begin to form ovaries and fruits. It is at this time that plants need a second feeding, which requires more nitrogen and potassium.
2 feeding:
- - nettle infusion;
- -bird droppings (solution 1:15 with exposure for 5 days) or;
- - mullein (solution 1:10 with exposure for 7 days);
- -wood ash (one liter per root);
- -superphosphate (30 g), potassium sulfate (1 teaspoon) per 10 liters of water - 1 liter per root.
With abundant fruiting, peppers need a third feeding.
3 feeding: identical in composition to the second.
! We must remember:
- If the soil is rich in phosphorus, then you should not get carried away with superphosphate.
- When applying fertilizers, do not exaggerate the dosage. Pepper fruits tend to accumulate nitrates.
- When applying fertilizers: water the plants before and after fertilizing. Make sure that the fertilizer liquid does not get on the leaves, ovaries and flowers. In case of contact, rinse with water.
- Foliar feeding is not recommended.
- In cold and cloudy weather, plants require more potassium.
- A good result will be achieved by alternating the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. If organic matter was added to the first fertilizing, then mineral fertilizers were added to the second, and vice versa.
Pepper care:
Water should be once a week, but this is before flowering. If it's hot, water 2 times a week. During flowering, water 3 times a week. Be sure to monitor the condition of the surface layer of soil. Excessive moisture harms plants no less than lack of moisture.
You just need to water warm water in the pre-lunch hours. This is a very important condition.
Relative humidity in a greenhouse should remain within 60-70%. Therefore, after each watering the greenhouse must be ventilated.
At high humidity the plants start to get sick powdery mildew, macrosporiosis, gray rot, the fruits are formed small.
At low humidity, ovaries, flowers and buds fall off.
Pepper is sensitive to sharp fluctuation daily temperature and overheating. Massive falling of flowers and ovaries begins.
Don't forget to chop the pepper.
- When the pepper reaches a height of 25-30 cm, pinch the top of the plant.
- Young shoots at the bottom of the bush need to be removed.
- Leave no more than five shoots at the top.
- On the remaining shoots, remove newly emerged young shoots.
- Shoots on which ovaries do not develop, damaged or diseased, pinch out.
- Be sure to remove yellow leaves.
- It is better not to prick up sick bushes, but to wait for the bush to strengthen and prick up later.
Loosen the soil When growing peppers, it is not recommended due to the proximity of the roots to the surface. In this case, the soil is mulched with earth, grass or, best of all, rotted straw (10 cm layer). Due to this, the top layer of soil will not cake, which will increase free access of air to the roots of plants, retain a sufficient amount of moisture and reduce the frequency of watering to 1 time in 10 days.
Pollination During the flowering period, it is done by daily, light shaking of the bushes.
Fruit collection begin in the technical maturity phase. The fruits have reached the appropriate size, but are still green. Or in the phase of physiological maturity. The fruits took on the appropriate color (yellow, red) and the seeds ripened in them.
Great( 6 ) Badly( 1 )
For all vegetables, the yield depends not only on the variety and level of agricultural technology, but also on how well you placed them in the garden or greenhouse, on whether they have enough light and what the soil and soil level are in the area groundwater, but especially for sweet and bitter peppers. Suitable soil for growing them is almost half the success, and the pepper reacts to all the little things: not only to its fertility or chemical composition, but also mechanically, that is, what is more in it - sand or clay, what kind of lumps it gets into - large or small, and also what kind of fertilizers were added to it.
Selecting soil for planting
The most best land for pepper this is light loamy or sandy loam soil with a structure in the form of small lumps and with a large proportion of humus, rich in nutrients, but always without excess nitrogen. On slightly acidic soils, pepper productivity deteriorates, especially in early varieties, and on pronouncedly acidic soils it generally grows very poorly. Suitable acidity for growing peppers is pH 6-6.6 (for seedlings and young plants - up to 6.8), and the best pH is about 6.4. If the indicator is less than 6, liming materials must be added to the soil - chalk, slaked lime or calcareous tuff.
Soil fertilization
It is also worth carrying out a soil analysis in order to know exactly how much fertilizer should be applied to the pepper as the main fertilizer. If the soil is too poor, the average doses that are usually indicated in reference books may not be enough, and if the soil is richer than the average nutritional elements, peppers may get too much nitrogen. This should not be allowed, because this will make the pepper “fatten” - it will grow a lot of stems and leaves, but will produce very few fruits (or even not at all). Not by chance nitrogen fertilizers it should always be given less than leafy vegetables and root vegetables, and on undepleted black soils they may not be added to the soil at all. For the same reason, peppers should not be fed with manure of any kind - it contains too much nitrogen for this vegetable. On alkaline soils, it is necessary to exclude potassium fertilizers. Under no circumstances should you add or use for feeding fertilizers that contain chlorine (as well as watering with chlorinated water), such as ammonium chloride, potassium electrolyte and some other potassium salts - it is very sensitive to this substance, the plants will get sick and good harvest they won't give it.
Fertilizers for peppers are incorporated into the soil in advance, in the fall or several weeks before planting seedlings, most often by mixing organic fertilizers with mineral ones. From organic fertilizers pepper responds better to fermented bird droppings, although more often humus or compost is added to the soil for plowing - 7-10 kg per 1 m2, and in some areas - non-acidic peat (it is not advisable to do this without sufficient experience and accurate knowledge of its acidity , you can acidify the soil). If you use mineral fertilizers alone, they should be on average 1.5-2 times more than if they were added to organic ones.
The average amount (without soil amendments) of mineral fertilizers that are most often used is: 15-20 g of urea, 40-50 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2. On ordinary moderately fertile soils, the ratio between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be 2:2:1 (here we do not mean the weight of the fertilizer itself in grams, but only the presence of nutrients); for the poor – 2:1.5:1 for the most total number; on good black soils– 0.5-1:2:1 or no nitrogen at all.
In addition, if you have such an opportunity, add wood ash to the fertilizers - it contains the necessary nutritional elements, and pests and diseases will be less of a bother.
In order for the harvest to be larger and for the plants to be less sick, it is very important to observe crop rotation. The best predecessors for pepper are legumes, onions, pumpkin and perennial herbs (turnover of their layer), permissible early cabbage, but under no circumstances should it be planted after potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants or physalis.
The place for the pepper should be well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.
The topic of today’s article is the ideal soil for peppers: for seedlings and for planting mature seedlings. Do-it-yourself soil preparation for pepper seedlings.
Correct soil
Good planting land should:
- be loose, light, with porous structure , provide free access to air and water;
- contain life-giving microflora, organics;
- keep in optimal proportions for seedlings potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, copper, zinc;
- correspond in composition to the soil in which it will be;
- be water-permeable, retain moisture for a long time without forming a surface crust;
- have a neutral pH value adequate for peppers pH ~ 5-7. This acidity protects peppers from black stems and clubroot.
Good land should not:
- be infested with weeds, larvae, pest eggs, worms, mushroom spores, toxic substances, pathogens, rotting organic matter;
- have an admixture of clay.
The ideal soil composition for pepper seedlings contains phosphorus and potassium oxides, sulfur, boron, molybdenum, zinc, iron, copper, manganese, magnesium, and calcium in properly maintained proportions.
Note! Pepper seedlings develop well in the removed surface layer of soil from under the acacias.
Seedling mixtures
How to prepare soil for pepper seedlings:
- One part at a time: sand, peat, humus, earth.
- Sod, garden soil, compost, sand - in equal parts. Season with wood ash at the rate of a glass per 10 kg of compound.
- Equal parts lowland peat and humus. Enrich with potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
- One measure of compost (peat), sand (perlite), two turf.
- To one part of sawdust and sand mixed equally, add three parts of turf soil.
- Equally sheet and turf land, the same amount of humus, a little sand, vermiculite, perlite to choose from.
- Earth, humus, sand, wood ash.
- Mix turf soil, river sand, peat in equal proportions, pour a bucket of water with superphosphate, potassium sulfate (30 g) and urea (10 g).
- Earth, humus, peat in the same volume, half a liter of wood ash, 2 matchbox superphosphate.
Note! If you buy ready-made soil, carefully study the composition. Often it is 100% peat. In such an environment, pepper seedlings do not develop.
More information about the components of the mixtures
Peat
Used as a leavening agent. Most soil mixtures require peat additives. There are three types:
- lowland: not sour, rich in nutritional components;
- transition;
- surface, requiring enrichment with lime or ash. The application of phosphate and magnesium fertilizers is encouraged.
Coarse sand
Provides proper drainage, promoting the formation of the supporting part of the bush. Makes the soil porous and light.
Turf
To saturate the soil mixture and improve the structure, in the summer-autumn period the top soil layer is removed along with the grass. Placed in boxes. Warm up before use.
Sphagnum mosses
Increases moisture capacity. Possessing bactericidal properties, prevent rotting of the root system of seedlings.
Sawdust
Additives from wood waste lighten the soil, increase its permeability.
Compost
Contains humus, which is so necessary for the successful development of seedlings. Increases fertility, ventilation.
Perlite
When growing seedlings in mixtures containing a substance of volcanic origin, the risk of fungal diseases and rotting of seedlings is reduced. Protects against the formation of lumps, caking, compacting, and temperature changes.
Vermiculite
Crushed layered mineral saves from drying out.
Ash
Experienced gardeners prefer birch.
Note! To facilitate seedling soil cocktails, add: seed husks, grain husks, expanded clay, hydrogels, foam granules, rotted leaves that do not contain tannins (oak, willow, chestnut leaves), ground eggshells. To remove acidification, add lime fluff, chalk and dolomite flour.
Preparing the land for pepper seedlings
At the end of summer and autumn, store available components for storage: soil, turf, peat, moss, sawdust, compost. You can keep the workpieces in plastic bags, sacks, boxes, buckets, at sub-zero temperatures. It is advisable that they freeze well.
Note! Earth with garden plot may contain seeds unwanted plants, harmful insects and their larvae, pathogens. Do not use without disinfection, or replace with a store-bought one.
Do not add fresh manure, fresh compost, or untreated turf to seedling mixtures.
You can improve the soil for seedlings in the following ways:
- To lower pH levels, neutralize unwanted chemicals, treat with preparations like Flora-S.
- Treat with fungicides, insecticides. This procedure is reliable and lasts for a long time. We must keep in mind the dangers of such drugs to health and follow all safety precautions.
- Leave for a couple of hours, stirring occasionally. Store steamed soil in sterilized containers in a cool, unlit place. With this treatment, harmful bacteria, fungus, insect larvae and eggs die, but the necessary trace elements and minerals are preserved.
- To improve microflora treat with a solution such as “Baikal”, “Gumi” in accordance with the instructions.
- Heat for half an hour in the oven at a temperature of +40-50°. The disadvantage of this method is that, along with undesirable factors essential nutrients are destroyed.
- Freeze. 30-40 days before planting, warm it up, mix it with the other ingredients, and freeze it again.
- Disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate. Additionally, apply an antifungal agent.
Note! Don't overdo it. With correctly selected components, the soil mixture turns out to be quite fertile. Experienced vegetable growers advise applying liquid fertilizers after two true leaves appear on the seedlings.
Start mixing the warmed components 2-3 weeks before the start of sowing. Sift the soil, turf, peat, humus. Select plant remains, pebbles, and foreign objects.
Place the selected ingredients in a suitable container. Knead the lumps. Mix thoroughly until smooth. Add sand, perlite. They will combine all the ingredients into one whole, mix again.
A week before, fill the seedling containers with the prepared mixture. Spray with a light manganese solution. Add ash and fertilizer.
Note! Modern technologies allow you to grow pepper seedlings on soilless substrates: a mixture of sawdust and sand, coconut tablets, peat cushion. It is possible to grow seedlings simply on paper. The advantage of this unusual method is the sterility of the material.
Is it possible to add soil to pepper seedlings?
Pepper seedlings do not require additional land.
But, if such a need arises, sprinkle the seedlings without covering the first cotyledon leaves with the soil mixture remaining from planting, or sprinkle with a mixture of cultivated soil with used tea leaves. Add in several stages.
After lignification of the lower part of the stem, stop adding seedlings, otherwise the formation of the root system will slow down and rotting may begin.
Preparing soil for pepper seedlings
How to prepare the soil for pepper seedlings? In order not to destroy carefully grown seedlings, you should prepare the soil at the pepper’s permanent place of residence:
- Arrange the beds in advance, apply a complex of fertilizers appropriate to the type of soil.
- A few days before produce abundant.
- Make holes, depth equal to the capacity of the finished seedlings, fill with settled water room temperature.
- Plant peppers.
The more carefully the soil is prepared in compliance with all agrotechnical rules, the stronger and more resilient the seedlings will grow. Depends on soil fertility
Pepper is a very demanding crop environment, so growing peppers in open ground is risky. You will have to prepare for weather surprises in order to get a good harvest.
Landing place pepper should be protected from the wind, well warmed up and illuminated by the sun. In the middle zone and more northern areas it is impossible to do without temporary shelters. Pepper is sensitive to temperature changes, so if it is not possible to install temporary shelters, then pepper should be planted when the average daily temperature is 14-15 degrees and the threat of frost has passed. Pepper cannot be planted after related crops (tomatoes, potatoes).
Preparation of beds for planting peppers, it is carried out in the fall. The soil should be fertile, light, and retain moisture well. If the soil is heavy and clayey, then you need to add old sawdust or coarse sand. These components will make the soil more permeable to water, air and heat. Acidic soil must be limed; lime is applied only in the fall. On heavy soils it is better to do raised beds, height 25-30 cm.
When preparing the beds, manure is added to the ground in the fall and dug up. If the beds are prepared in the spring, then it is better to add humus to the soil, 1 bucket per square meter. meter. Also in the spring, superphosphate (1 tablespoon), potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon), urea (1 teaspoon) and 1 cup of ash are added to the soil. After applying fertilizers, the bed needs to be dug well, leveled and spilled with a solution of “sodium humate” (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or mullein solution (0.5 liters of slurry per bucket of water).
Transplanting pepper produced tape method. The distance between plants depends on the variety. Early ripening, low-growing varieties planted at 20-25 cm between plants in the tape and 40-50 cm between the tapes. Later, tall varieties are planted less frequently - 30-40 cm between plants and 60-70 cm between ribbons.
Peppers are planted in a hole without deepening or filling the root collar to avoid the development of “Black Leg” and other diseases. Replanting should be done as carefully as possible, trying not to damage the roots, since pepper, unlike tomatoes, does not form additional roots. Having planted a seedling in a hole, it is necessary to water the roots well, sprinkle soil on top and compact it. The leaves and shoots of pepper are very fragile and break off easily, so when planting, near each seedling you need to stick a peg into the ground, which will be used to tie up the plants.
Sweet and bitter peppers should not be planted side by side; due to the ability of peppers to cross-pollinate, the fruits of sweet peppers will taste bitter.
Care for peppers, when grown in open ground, includes watering, loosening, frost protection, fertilizing, protection from diseases and pests, and weed control.
Watering. Pepper is very demanding of moisture and does not tolerate drought. Therefore, it should be watered abundantly, especially at the beginning of growth and fruit formation. Lack of moisture leads to the falling of flowers and ovaries, weakening of the root system and lignification of the base of the stem, affecting the quality of the fruit and the harvest as a whole. You only need to water with warm water. The soil should be loosened after each watering or rain to avoid crust formation.
Top dressing. During cultivation, peppers are fed 3-4 times. The first feeding is carried out 10-14 days after planting the seedlings. Feed with mullein solution (1 liter per 10 liters of water), bird droppings solution (1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water), adding 1 glass of ash to a bucket of solution. You can feed with complex fertilizer (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters).
Collection Pepper fruit harvesting begins when the fruits reach technical ripeness. Technical ripeness occurs when the fruits are fully formed, but still have a green, light green color. Depending on the variety, 27-45 days after the formation of ovaries. Harvesting fruits at technical ripeness accelerates the growth of the remaining ovaries. Fruit harvesting must be completed before frost sets in.
Storage. Fruits can be stored in a dry, warm room. During storage, they ripen and acquire a red, orange, yellow color, characteristic of the biological ripeness of this variety.
In open ground, as a rule, low-growing, early-ripening varieties are grown, less often mid-season and hybrids. bell pepper. They are characterized by uniform ripening of fruits and practically do not need to be formed. It is enough to trim the shoots growing inside the bush so that they do not thicken and shade, as well as weak, barren shoots.
Growing hot peppers in open ground is no different from growing sweet peppers.