Cherry - Favorite - gardenFavorite - garden: Saplings: fruit and berry crops. Felt cherry - cultivation and care, planting, pruning, photo Felt cherry "Natalie": general description

Tree medium-sized, fast-growing, medium density, pyramidal crown, branches depart at a large angle.

Fruit: average value 4.7 g, maximum 7.7 g, fruits are dark red, almost black, pulp and juice are dark red, pulp is dense, stalk middle length and thickness.

The best pollinators are Ovstuzhenka, Iput, Tyutchevka, Raditsa, Compact, Veniaminova. The winter hardiness of the tree and flower buds is high, the trunk and bases of the skeletal branches are resistant to sunburn and frost. Highly resistant to fungal diseases.

Variety advantages: High winter hardiness and resistance to fungal diseases, high quality fruits.

Tree medium size with a spherical crown of medium density and foliage.

Fruit large, weighing 5.0 g, one-dimensional, rounded. The main color of the fetus is dark red, subcutaneous dots are average, hardly noticeable. The skin is medium, without pubescence. The pulp is orange, tender. The juice is light red. Fruit taste 4.75 points, sweet and sour. The content of dry matter in fruits is 15.0%, sugars - 6.8%, acids - 1.48%, ascorbic acid - 11.0 mg/100g. General purpose variety.

The variety is partially self-fertile, the best pollinators are Zhukovskaya and Vladimirskaya.

Variety benefits: High-quality fruits of universal use, moderate growth, stable yield, increased resistance to coccomycosis.


Tree
medium, fast-growing, crown is spherical, slightly spreading. Preferential accommodation fruit formations- bouquet branches. The bark on the trunk and main branches is smooth, brownish. Shoots are thick, arched, brown, glabrous. Lots of lenticels, large, yellow with white edging. leaves are large, obovate, short-pointed, dark green. The leaf blade is concave, the edges are pointed up and inward; base sharply pointed, pubescence absent. The edge of the sheet is double-serrated. Stipules medium, slightly dissected, early falling. The petiole is medium, pigmented at the base of red. The glands are small - 1-2, yellow, oval. Inflorescence umbel, flowers solitary, rosaceous, large, white.

Fruit one-dimensional, medium weight, rounded-flattened from the side of the stalk, the top of the fruit is flat-rounded, a funnel of medium depth, saucer-shaped. The base of the fruit is indented. The ventral suture is of medium depth, the stalk is medium, green in color, well attached to the branch, weakly attached to the stone. The color of the fetus is dark red, there are no subcutaneous points. The skin is medium, naked.

Variety benefits: High winter hardiness of wood, trunk and flower buds.

Tree medium-sized with a wide-round raised crown of medium density. Fruiting mainly on bouquet twigs. The bark on the trunk and skeletal branches is light brown. The shoots are large, gray-green, with an average number of lenticels. Buds are ovoid, medium deviation relative to the shoot. The leaf is medium in size, narrowly oval, with double-crested serration, smooth relief, green color with a sheen, without pubescence. The petiole is long, of medium thickness, anthocyanin coloration along the entire length of the petiole. There are 1-2 small glands of dark red color at the base of the leaf blade. The flowers are large, white, horn-shaped. The shape of the petal is rounded. Flowering time is average. The stigma of the pistil is higher in relation to the stamens.

Fruit large, rounded, with a rounded apex, with a depression at the base of the fetus, with a small, inconspicuous abdominal suture. The stalk is long, with a fragile attachment to the stone. The fruits are dark red, there are no integumentary points. The stone is medium, dump, separated from the pulp well. The pulp of the fruit is dark red, with dark red juice, dense, juicy. The taste character is dessert with high sweetness and low medium acidity.

Advantagesvarieties: High winter hardiness of wood, high resistance to coccomycosis, medium height, high taste qualities of fruits.

Tree medium-sized, crown shape is wide-round, sprawling, with medium foliage. Fruiting mainly on annual growths - fruit twigs. The bark on the stem and main branches is light brown. The shoots are large, gray-green, with an average number of lenticels. The buds are ovoid, strongly deviated from the shoot, above average size, obovate, with double-crested serration, smooth relief, matte surface, light green in color, without pubescence. Petiole of medium length and thickness, with anthocyanin coloration along the entire length of the petiole. There are 1-2 small glands of red color at the base of the leaf and on the petiole. Stipules short, early falling. The flowers are large, white, pink. The shape of the petal is rounded. Flowering time is early. The stigma of the pistil is higher in relation to the stamens.

Fruit large, rounded, with a concave apex, a medium depression at the base of the fetus and a small, inconspicuous abdominal suture. The peduncle is long, of medium thickness. A separating layer is formed between the fruit and the peduncle. The fruits are red, with a small number of subcutaneous dots of small size. The bone is medium, rounded. The pulp of the fruit is red, soft density, tender texture, juicy. Dessert flavor character with high sweetness and very low acidity.

Advantagesvarieties: Fertility, very early ripening, winter hardiness, fruiting regularity, disease resistance, dessert taste.

Tree tree type, with a reverse pyramidal raised crown of medium density. Shoots are medium, straight, brown-brown. The bark on the trunk and main branches is grayish-brown. The kidney is cone-shaped, strongly deviated from the shoot. The leaf is narrowly oval, dark green. The apex is strongly pointed, the base is sharp, the edge is serrated. The surface of the leaf blade is shiny, folded in a boat. The glands are located at the base of the leaf and on the petiole. Petiole with anthocyanin coloration along the entire length. The number of flowers in the inflorescence is 4. The corolla is open. The petals are white, touching each other. The stigma of the pistil is located at the same level relative to the anthers. The calyx is goblet-shaped, the sepals are strongly serrated. It bears fruit on twigs.

Fruit broad-hearted. The fruit funnel is medium, the apex is rounded. The fruits are dark red. The pulp is dark red, juicy, dense, the juice is dark red. The bone is oval. The apex is pointed, the base is rounded. The stone is separated from the pulp well. The taste is sweet and sour.

Variety advantages: Winter hardiness, yield, good fruit quality.


Tree
medium vigor with a rounded, slightly spreading crown of medium density and foliage. The shoot is reddish-brown, of medium thickness, curved, covered with a few medium-sized, silvery-yellow lenticels. Buds of medium size, pointed, brownish-gray, not pubescent, lagging behind the shoot. The leaf is dark green in color, above average in size, oblong-oval in shape with a slight sheen. The base of the leaf blade is rounded, the top gradually passes into the tip. The leaf blade is slightly concave with a boat and curved down, located on the shoot under acute angle. The serration of the edge of the sheet is double- or triple-crested. The petiole is long, of medium thickness, without pubescence, purple-red on the illuminated side. Glands of medium size up to four at the base of the leaf blade. Stipules are long, large, not falling for a long time. The flowers are white. Petals are rounded, above average size. The pistil and stamens are the same length. The calyx is conical, green in color with a tan, without pubescence.

Fruit painted dark red and have an attractive appearance. The shape of the fruit is oval-heart-shaped with a rounded base and an oval apex. The pulp is dark red, quite dense, juicy, sweet and sour. The juice is dark colored. The stone is well separated from the pulp, medium in size, oval-ovoid.

Variety advantages: High quality fruits of universal purpose, high resistance to coccomycosis, resistance to ring spot pathogens.


Trees
or bushes are medium and below average in height, the crown is rounded, slightly drooping. The leaves are of medium size, bright green, the edges of the leaf blade are crenate. It bears fruit on last year's growths and bouquet twigs.

Fruit large, oval, maroon, suitable for consumption in fresh and all types of processing (jams, marmalades, compotes). The taste is sweet and sour, dessert, the pulp of the fruit is dense, juicy. The juice is dark red, the stone is medium in size, it is easily separated from the pulp.

Advantagesvarieties: high yield good quality fruits. Resistance to the most dangerous fungal diseases (moniliosis and coccomycosis).


Tree
average, average. The crown is pyramidal-spreading, raised, of medium density. The bark on the trunk and main branches is smooth, brown. Shoots are medium, straight, brown, glabrous. Little lentils, medium, yellow. The leaves are medium, wide, obovate, short-pointed, dark green, wrinkled, matte. The leaf blade is concave (boat), curved upwards. The top of the leaf is sharply pointed, the base is pointed, there is no pubescence. Leaf margin is biennial. Stipules are short, slightly dissected, early falling. The petiole is medium, thin, green. The glands are small, yellow, oval. Inflorescence - umbrella, flowers triple, pink, medium, white.

Fruit large, medium one-dimensionality, medium weight. The shape of the fruit is rounded, the apex is rounded, the base is without deepening, the fossa is small, wide. The ventral suture is absent. The stalk is medium, the ease of separation from the branch is poor, the attachment to the stone is strong. The color of the fruit is dark red. There are no subcutaneous points. The peel is medium, naked, it is difficult to remove from the fruit. The pulp is dark red, tender, juicy, the color of the cavity is the same color as the pulp. The juice is dark red. Fruit transportability is good. General purpose variety. The variety is self-fertile. Fruiting is annual. The drought resistance of the variety is high.

Advantagesvarieties: High winter hardiness of wood and flower buds. Good quality fruits with high yields.

High bush spreading form with pink-white flowers. Light yellow and carmine, they are very decorative in autumn. The fruits are also beautiful - spherical, shiny, bright red-orange color, edible. The shrub is winter-hardy, drought-resistant. Propagated by seeds, green cuttings, grafting. The fruits densely stick to the branches, their color is from light pink to dark red, juicy, tender, pleasant in taste, almost without acid.

Leaves dark green, oval, pubescent below, strongly corrugated, with a pointed end.

flowers white, white with pink (rarely pink).

Variety benefits: High winter hardiness, high productivity and precocity.


Tree
medium size, with a broad-pyramidal, well-leafed crown. The kidney is large, vegetative cone-shaped, medium deviation, generative ovoid. The leaf is oblong-ovate, large, dark green, the apex is strongly pointed, the base is rounded, the serration is double-crested, the plate is slightly concave, wavy, pubescence is absent. The petiole is short or medium, thick, pigmented, has 2-3 large colored glands. In inflorescence 3-4 flowers, large, saucer-shaped corolla, petals adjoining, white, pistil stigma located on the same level with stamens, calyx narrowly goblet, sepals not serrated, stamens and pistil long. It bears fruit on twigs.

Fruit medium weight, obtuse-heart shape, narrow funnel, rounded apex, with a white dot, dark red color, almost black when fully ripe, dark red pulp and juice, medium density pulp. The stem is short, thick. The stone is ovoid, the apex is pointed, the base is rounded, it is separated from the pulp medium. The fruits are beautiful, juicy, sweet, come off the stalk well, partially crack in wet years.

Advantagesvarieties: Regular yield, high winter hardiness of flower buds, resistance to fungal diseases, early ripening, dense fruit pulp.


Trees
medium-sized, the crown is spherical, sprawling, drooping, of medium density, skeletal branches depart at a right or obtuse angle. The leaves are large, wide, lanceolate, long-pointed, dark green, smooth, shiny, with a finely serrated edge.

Fruit medium weight, one-dimensional, rounded, red-yellow. The taste is sweet and sour, dessert, the pulp is dense, cartilaginous, juicy, light pink, the stone is medium-sized, oval, well separated from the pulp.

Advantagesvarieties: Mid-early winter-hardy variety with fruits of good taste and commercial qualities. Resistant to the most dangerous fungal diseases - moniliosis and coccomycosis.


Tree
small. Fruit large, bright or dark red. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour, the fruits are not so tart. The fruits contain sugar, malic and citric acid. It blooms very profusely, the entire bush or tree from the top to the ground is covered with white openwork foam and looks very impressive because of the long, flowering brushes. This plant is also elegant in summer with its dark decorative leaves, it is also beautiful in autumn, when large orange-red fruits ripen.

Variety advantages: Red bird cherry is unpretentious, withstands light shading.


Felt cherry is native to Southeast Asia, where it grows naturally. In the Russian Far East, felt cherry is still considered a cherry, and its ungrafted seedlings can be found in every garden. However, as a fruit crop, felt cherry is more recognized in the gardens of Europe and North America, although it got there only in the middle of the 20th century.

In the European part of Russia, it appeared thanks to Ivan Vladimirovich Michurin, who acclimatized seedlings and brought out the first large-fruited form of Ando.

Felt cherry in the garden is:
early fruiting and ripening 1-1.5 weeks earlier than ordinary cherries
increased winter hardiness and frost resistance
decorative and stable annual harvest
resistance to coccomycosis
absence of root suckers.

Sweet juicy fruits are especially loved by children, they ripen early - in early July and are easily accessible on low bushes.
Felt cherry is very fast-growing. Grafted one-year-olds begin to bear fruit in the 2nd year after planting, and seedlings grown from seeds - in the 3rd-4th year of life.

Average yield an adult bush is about 8 kg, but with good care you can get much more. Fruiting annual, on annual shoots. Gives good yields for 10 years.

The fruits of felt cherries are good fresh and for processing into jams, syrups, juices, compotes.
They are useful in anemia and cardiovascular diseases. Soothe nervous system. IN folk medicine they are used as a diaphoretic, antipyretic, cold and laxative, in addition, they increase appetite and have antiseptic properties.

According to the flowering period, felt cherry varieties are divided into early, medium and late flowering. In places where return frosts are possible, early-flowering varieties should not be planted. For example, for the Moscow region, where flowering begins in the first decade of May, late varieties are preferred.

In years with a long warm autumn, the growth of one-year-old shoots is delayed in felt cherries and they do not have time to fully mature. The unripe parts freeze slightly or die from winter desiccation, but this does not have a great effect on the vegetation and yield of the entire bush.

Felt cherry is very weakly affected by clusterosporium and is resistant to coccomycosis. And this disease is just a scourge of common cherries, because of it, up to 80% of the crop often dies.

The best varieties of felt cherries

TRIANA. Winter-hardy, mid-season, self-fertile variety. Bush of medium size. The fruits are broadly oval, dark pink, weighing up to 4 g. The average yield is about 10 kg per bush> Resistant to fungal diseases.


PRINCESS. Mid-season, winter-hardy variety. Bush about 1 m high, with a wide oval crown. During the fruiting period, it is strewn with bright pink shiny large cherries weighing up to 4 g. Yields up to 10 kg per bush. The fruits are juicy, tasty, rich in vitamins.

CHILDREN'S. Winter-hardy variety of early ripening. Bush of medium size. The fruits are round, bright red, weighing 3-4 g, sweet. Resistant to fungal diseases.
AUTUMN VIROVSKAYA. A variety of medium ripening, drought-resistant and winter-hardy. Bushes up to 1.8 m high with a spreading wide oval crown. Fruiting is plentiful. The fruits are bright, shiny, dark red, almost burgundy, weighing about 3 g. The taste is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy. Disease resistant.

NATALIE. A beautiful cherry with a wide oval crown about 1.8 m high. During the fruiting period, the branches are strewn with ruby ​​​​fruits, effectively contrasting with dark green, wrinkled, heavily pubescent leaves. Fruits weighing about 4 g, tasty, high in vitamins. The variety is early ripe, drought-resistant, winter-hardy, it is weakly affected by diseases.
OCEAN VIROVSKAYA. Late ripe variety. The bush is large, medium branching. Fruits of medium size, with dense pulp, sweet and sour, burgundy color. Up to 10 kg can be collected from a bush.
DAMANKA. A new late variety of felt cherry with large, tasty sweet and sour fruits of burgundy color. Productivity up to 10 kg per bush.


WHITE. Fully corresponding to the name, a one-of-a-kind albino hybrid. The fruits have a white skin, white flesh and even a white stone. They are small (about 2.5 g), sweet and sour. The variety is mid-season, without any special advantages, but decorative, grows well in the Moscow region and is interesting as an exotic.

Having picked up varieties of early, middle and late deadline ripening, you can collect fresh fruits for a whole month and even longer.
Large selection in the online store of seeds and seedlings:

Growing felt cherries

Felt cherry is photophilous, for it they choose an open sunny place with fertile, light, well-drained soil of a neutral reaction. It does not tolerate acidic soils. If necessary, 1-2 years before planting, the soil is limed to bring the pH to 5.5-6.0.

On clay soils and in low places near felt cherries in winter, the root collar can support, and then the aerial part dies. However, it is possible to grow new shoots from the root.

Plants are drought-resistant, excess moisture has a bad effect on their growth and worsens overwintering. All varieties of felt cherries are winter-hardy and withstand frosts down to -30 °C. However, for flower buds in winter, temperature drops are dangerous when, after prolonged thaws, colds come again. Frosts during the flowering period can kill the flowers.

For high-quality cross-pollination, at least three varieties of felt cherries must be planted on the site. With ordinary cherries, despite the resemblance, it does not pollinate, as some gardeners mistakenly believe.


Plant better in spring in the most early dates- before the swelling of the kidneys, but it is possible in the fall - at the end of September. The root neck of seedlings should be at the level of the soil surface. The distance between plants is about 2 m.


When caring for felt cherries, tree trunks are loosened to a shallow depth and then mulched. Its root system is superficial and is located in the soil at a depth of about 40 cm.

top dressing. Plants need annual feeding. After flowering, fertilizers are applied along the edge of the near-stem circles, each bush requires 5-7 kg of organic matter, 70 g of phosphorus, 30 g of nitrogen and 40 g of potassium. The efficiency of fertilizers is higher if the soil is limed every five years: 200-300 g/m2 of dolomite flour for autumn digging.

pruning. Crown formation begins immediately after planting. Annual seedlings are shortened to 40 cm above the soil surface. In two-year-olds, after planting, 5-6 main side branches are left; shortening them by a quarter, the rest are cut out. In the future, the bushes are regularly thinned out, and from the 7-8th year of life, anti-aging pruning is carried out.

Felt cherry is sometimes planted as a border along the paths, cutting the bushes at a height of 60-80 cm above the ground.

The main pests are aphids (cherry and plum) and scale insects. You can cope with them with the help of Fufanon and Aktellik.

Felt cherries are loved by birds and often have to be protected with netting or lutrasil.

The most common diseases are leaf spot, moniliosis, gray fruit rot. For
prevention and treatment practice early spring spraying of 3% Bordeaux mixture and repeated before flowering - 1% or copper oxychloride.

reproduction

Felt cherry is propagated by seeds, layering, green and lignified cuttings, as well as grafting.
At seed propagation it retains all the main features of the mother plant and gives the most viable offspring. Seeds are harvested from productive and large-fruited specimens.
Before sowing in autumn, the bones are stored in moist sand or sawdust so that they do not dry out. In the second half of October, they are sown on a school bed to a depth of about 3 cm and the surface is mulched with peat.

The whole next season the seedlings are well cared for - watered, fed, weeded. If by autumn they grow to 60-80 cm, they can be used for planting. Weak seedlings will have to be grown for another year. In the greenhouse, it is guaranteed that you can get felt cherry planting material in one season.

More seedlings are planted in the garden than necessary, so that after the first fruiting, the best fruits in terms of yield and size are selected.

Green felt cherry cuttings perfectly rooted in a greenhouse with constant moisture. best term for cuttings - the third decade of July, when the shoots are already half ripe. The cuttings are cut with three internodes and 3-4 leaves, the bottom leaf is removed during planting.
A mixture of river sand and peat in a ratio of 1:1 is used as a substrate.

When breeding lignified cuttings they are harvested in the second half of September from annual shoots with a thickness of at least 0.5 cm. The length of the cutting is 20-22 cm.
The cuttings are tied in bunches and stored until spring in the basement, half buried in wet sawdust or sand. In the spring, before planting, they are soaked in solutions of growth regulators that promote rooting (heteroauxin 150 mg / l or indolylbutyric acid 30 mg / l). Grow cuttings in a greenhouse with regular moistening and ventilation.

Reproduction by horizontal layering exercise in the same way as currants and gooseberries.
Valuable varieties are propagated by grafting, mainly by budding. Felt cherry can be grafted onto its own seedlings, as well as Ussuri plum, blackthorn, cherry plum. Vaccinations for common cherries, steppe cherries and sweet cherries are not successful. Optimal time budding - end of July - beginning of August. The cuttings are grafted onto the bedbug stock VVA-1, plum and apricot seedlings.

Long awaited harvest

Harvest cherries as they ripen without stalks. Already ripe, they may not crumble from the branches for a month and not lose consumer qualities, but plucked ones deteriorate very quickly even in the refrigerator.

That is why felt cherries are not sold in markets and shops. It has to be processed immediately.
The stone is small, poorly separated from the pulp. Less sugar is used for jam from this berry than from ordinary cherries.

According to the newspaper Priusadebny Vestnik

Felt cherries on their suburban areas grown by many gardeners. Accordingly, selection work with this culture is quite active. Many varieties of felt cherries were bred by specialists. Many of them are popular with gardeners. And one of the most fruitful at the same time is felt cherry "Natalie". She deserved simply excellent reviews from the owners of suburban areas.

Benefits of Growing

Before we start talking about the "Natalie" variety, let's figure out what advantages the felt cherry itself has in comparison with the usual one. The advantages of this variety of gardeners include primarily:

  1. High decorative qualities. Such cherries can be grown not only to obtain good harvests but also to decorate the site. Very often, felt varieties are used, for example, to create borders and hedges.
  2. High degree of frost resistance. Almost all felt varieties of cherries are great for growing not only in the Central regions of Russia, but also in the Urals or Siberia.
  3. Early ripeness. The fruits of felt cherries ripen about 1.5 weeks earlier than ordinary cherries.
  4. Ease of harvesting. Unlike ordinary cherries, the fruits of felt varieties practically do not crumble when overripe. In addition, this variety never grows too tall. Stretching or using a ladder to get the fruit from the upper branches is not required in this case.

Of course, the variety of felt cherries "Natalie" is also distinguished by all these advantages.

The benefits of fruits

Actually, the felt cherry berries themselves are not only characterized by excellent taste. The fruits of this culture are also very beneficial for human health. In addition to various kinds of organic acids, they include substances such as carbohydrates and vitamins. Felt cherries surpass even apples in the percentage of iron.

Who bred the variety "Natalie"

Russian summer residents have been growing this variety of felt cherries for a very long time. This variety was bred by domestic specialists in 1979. Work on it was carried out at the Far Eastern Experimental Station VNIIR. In this case, a fairly productive variety "Leto" was also used as a parent. For pollination of its flowers, several varieties of cherries were used at once. These were "Spark", "Red Sweet" and "Damanka". Breeders N. A. and V. P. Tsarenko were engaged in breeding the variety of felt cherries "Natalie". It was entered into the state register in 1997. Since then, this variety has been invariably popular with summer residents.

Cherry felt "Natalie": general description

Unlike many other varieties of felt cherries, Natalie bushes grow quite tall - up to 1.8 m. characteristic feature this variety is also a wide spreading crown of an ovoid or slightly flattened shape. The bushes of the "Natalie" variety do not look too thick. Their crown is very well ventilated.

Annual shoots of "Natalie" are pubescent and have a light brown color. The gray bark on perennial branches is slightly flaky. The buds on the shoots of the "Natalie" variety are formed at once in three pieces and have a pointed shape. The leaf blades of them grow dark green, elongated, corrugated. On the upper side, they, like the shoots, are pubescent. Their petioles are not too long and have stipules.

The flowers of the "Natalie" variety are not particularly large - they reach only about 2.5 cm in diameter. Their shape is saucer-shaped. Each flower has five snow-white petals, one pistil and 27 stamens. The calyx of each flower is cylindrical in shape and pubescent on the outside.

Flowering and fruiting in the felt cherry "Natalie" is continuous along the branch.

Variety features

Cherry "Natalie" belongs to early ripe self-fertile varieties. It blooms around May 10-18. Harvest from the bushes of this variety can already be July 13-18. In addition to early ripeness, gardeners also attribute the friendly ripening of fruits to the advantages of this variety. Own-rooted seedlings "Natalie" begin to yield crops for 3-4 years. It will be possible to pick berries from the vaccination in the second year. Grows in the garden "Natalie" usually up to 18 years.

The yields of this variety are very high - up to 9 kg per bush. Another advantage of this cherry is frost resistance. In winter, the branches practically do not freeze slightly. Do not have any effect on the flowers of this plant and spring frosts. This variety is also drought tolerant. However, it is not recommended to overmoisten the Natalie cherry. Otherwise, she might kick out.

With regard to the resistance of this variety to various kinds of diseases, gardeners have mostly only positive reviews. For example, cherry "Natalie" is almost never infected with coccomycosis or clasterosporiasis. Waterlogging this variety, among other things, is not recommended also because in this case the plant can become ill with moniliosis.

There is a felt cherry "Natalie" and another important advantage. Judging by the reviews of summer residents and the manufacturer's statement, it is very easy to propagate with green cuttings. This is considered to be the best high yielding variety suitable for cultivation in intensive gardens, nurseries and amateur plots.

Fruit

The description of felt cherry "Natalie", given above, allows us to judge her as quite unpretentious. Among other things, on the bushes of this crop, in comparison with other varieties, very large berries grow. Their average weight is 4 grams. The coloring of the fruits of the felt cherry "Natalie" is dark red. The skin of ripe berries is pubescent with short hairs. The pulp of the fruits of this variety is cartilaginous, dense, juicy. Taste, according to many farmers, it is simply excellent. The juice of the fruit is red, sweet and sour.

Judging by the description of the felt cherry variety "Natalie" (the photo on the page also confirms this), its berries are really large. At the same time, it is believed that the fruits of this crop are excellent for both processing and fresh consumption. If desired, not only jam, jam, compote or marshmallow can be made from the berries of this cherry. Many owners of summer cottages make very tasty wine from them.

How to choose the right landing site

In the garden, felt cherry "Natalie" is desirable to place on the sunniest site. This will allow you to get maximum yields in the future. The advantages of this variety, among other things, include undemanding to the composition of the soil. Cherry "Natalie" will grow well on almost any soil. But it is best to choose for her a site with fertile and light-textured soil. A prerequisite for this is the absence of closely lying ground water.

Refers to "Natalie" varieties of self-fertile. And this means that it is pointless to grow only one of its seedlings in the garden. In this case, it will be impossible to obtain a harvest. Next to "Natalie" must grow, for example, other felt cherries. In this case, her flowers will give a lot of ovaries. Among other things, this variety has one very interesting feature. Its flowers can be pollinated, including related fruit crops. For example, cherry plums and plums are good pollinators for felted cherries "Natalie".

Where to get planting material

You can grow "Natalie" on the site both from a seedling and from a stone. But the first option is still preferable. The fact is that the bones of the Natalie cherry must be stratified before planting. Otherwise, they simply won't come up. Stratification is a rather troublesome procedure. But if you wish, of course, you can try this landing option. In any case, Natalie, like almost any other felt cherry, does not lose its varietal qualities when grown from seed.

Saplings of the "Natalie" variety can be purchased at almost any nursery. Cherry is really quite old and popular with summer residents.

How to plant

A hole for the felt cherry "Natalie" should be dug quite large. The optimal indicators of its depth and diameter will be approximately 50 cm. The soil mixture for the seedling is prepared by mixing fertile garden soil with rotted manure. To feed the plant, at first, a little slaked lime and some kind of complex fertilizer are also added to it.

At the seedling itself, the roots are cut by about 20 cm. This ensures their best development in the future. The seedling prepared in this way is lowered into a clay mash. The soil mixture is poured into the pit in a not too thick layer. Next, a seedling is installed and covered with prepared soil.

In order for the felt cherry "Natalie" to take root well, it must be planted at the same depth as in the nursery. On final stage around the plant make a roller of the earth and water it well.

Felt cherry "Natalie": features of growing in the garden

In order for the plant to consistently produce good yields in the future, it, of course, needs to be watered and fertilized on time. Also cherry "Natalie" requires periodic pruning. It is necessary to loosen the soil under the plants. But this procedure should be carried out as carefully as possible. The fact is that the root system of the Natalie cherry is quite close to the surface. And therefore, it is easy to damage it in the process of loosening.

How to fertilize

In the spring felted cherry "Natalie" is usually fed with mineral products. In this case, a complex composition intended for berry crops is used. For good development, cherries require both potassium (about 20-30 grams per plant), phosphorus (70-80 g), and nitrogen (30-50 g). In the fall, it is advisable to feed this variety with organic matter. Well-rotted horse or cow manure is best for Natalie cherries. You can also use compost. In any case, about four buckets should be poured under each plant. organic fertilizer. Feed this variety in the fall, usually immediately after pruning.

Felt cherry "Natalie" gives the best yields on neutral soils. Therefore, the soil under it should be limed from time to time. This procedure is carried out approximately once every 5 years. In this case, about 200-300 grams of lime are used per 1 m 2.

How to water

Excess moisture is, as already mentioned, what the felted cherry "Natalie" does not like very much. Photo healthy bushes of this culture are presented on the page. The poured cherry "Natalie" looks quite different. The beginning of the decay of this culture in the early stages can be determined, for example, by the rotting of the root neck. In any case, watering "Natalie" should be moderate. It is necessary to moisten the soil under this plant mainly only in drought. Usually the bushes are watered no more than three to four times per season (about once every 1-1.5 months).

It is believed that it is best to moisten the soil under "Natalie" by sprinkling. This is explained primarily by the superficial occurrence of the root system. Using a hose, it can be easily washed. Actually, sprinkling itself should be carried out exclusively in the evening or morning. Otherwise, it will be possible to “burn” the leaves of the plant.

crown formation

The description of the felt cherry variety "Natalie", given above, allows us to judge it as a plant that is quite tall. This culture is developing really fast. The same goes for her aging. Therefore, "Natalie", like almost any other felt cherry, needs regular pruning. The technology of this procedure depends primarily on the age of the plant. The branches of two and one-year-old seedlings are cut in the spring by about 1/3-1/4 if their length exceeds 60 cm. At the same time, all excess shoots are removed from the bush. Ultimately, the plant should have about 10-12 of the strongest branches left.

In subsequent years in spring time do basically only sanitary "Natalie". That is, all frozen, dried and improperly growing branches are removed from the bushes.

At the age of 6-7 years, the felt cherry "Natalie", like many other varieties, may begin to decline in yield. To prevent this from happening, rejuvenating pruning of the bushes should be done. At the same time, in the center of the crown of each plant, all old branches of the first and second orders are removed “on the ring”. Subsequently, new young shoots will begin to grow near the cherries next to the cuts. In the future, they will give good harvests.

In one place, the cherry "Natalie" can germinate up to 18 years. However experienced gardeners It is advised to change plants at the age of fifteen. Older cherries, unfortunately, do not give particularly good yields.

When pruning "Natalie", it is advisable, among other things, to use garden pitch. They are covered with "hemp" immediately after the removal of the branches.

Diseases and their treatment

The most dangerous diseases of felt cherries are, according to many experienced gardeners, klesterosporiosis and monilial burn. To the first type of infection, felt cherry "Natalie", as already mentioned, is quite resistant. The risk of her disease is quite high. This infection can be determined in the "Natalie" cherry, first of all, by the presence of dried brown shoots in the crown. Moniliosis is dangerous primarily because its manifestations are very easy to mistake for freezing during spring frosts or a burn when using insecticides.

Cure moniliosis felt cherry "Natalie" folk methods will not work. The gardener will have to use a complex technique using chemicals. The treatment of this disease includes several mandatory measures:

  • pruning of infected branches;
  • autumn cleaning from under the bushes of fallen leaves;
  • regular treatment with copper-containing preparations.

Maybe you already have felt cherries growing and caring for which will not be difficult even for a novice gardener. And most probably have at least heard this name more than once - “felt cherry”, and perhaps even tried its sweet berries. This fruit shrub is characterized by a rather high yield, unpretentiousness, resistance to drought, cold. It grows well, bears fruit even in the Urals or Siberia.

Many summer residents, gardeners from different parts of our country appreciate, love this shrub for its economic, biological, taste qualities. This is a distant relative of the wild cherry, which is widely distributed in China, so its other name "Chinese cherry" is quite reasonable, it is practically a synonym. This shrub came to us around the end of the 19th century, but then it was used only as a landscaping crop. Over time, through the efforts of breeders, different varieties were bred, they began to grow it not only for beauty, but also for fruit production. Today it is widely distributed in European countries, Japan, Korea, as well as in America, Canada.

Felt cherry - description and photo

Felt cherry, photo:

Felt cherry blossoms, photo:

The appearance of leaves, berries, shoots, pedicels directly justifies its name - they are all covered with a delicate fluff.

She has short stalks, and the flowers first have pink shade, which then becomes white.

The berries are most often red, but some varieties have pink, white, even black fruits. They are not sour at all, their sweetness is to everyone's liking. It is because of the delicate sweet taste that it is sometimes called baby cherry. Berries quickly reach maturity (less than 2 weeks). The core of the fruit is predominantly tender, soft, but some varieties can be quite dense (such as cherries).

Jams, marmalades, jams are cooked from it, although it is rather difficult to separate a small bone from the pulp. Compotes, juices, even homemade alcoholic drinks from this berry are simply excellent. In addition to a pleasant taste, the fruit contains organic acids, vitamins (especially C, B), carbohydrates. It is noteworthy that in terms of iron content, these berries are far ahead of apples! As mentioned above, in addition to growing for the sake of the harvest, you can safely use these low shrubs to create hedges, strengthen slopes. It turns out, no matter how you look at it - in all respects it is a useful, very nice culture.

Felt cherries are good for everyone: they have an attractive appearance, compact dimensions (which is important for small areas), but it has one small "flaw". This is about short term life is approximately 10 years. If you surround her with care, competent care (in particular, rejuvenating crown pruning), then you may be able to extend it. life cycle up to 18-20 years old. As for size, an adult shrub usually grows up to 2-2.5 meters, but never exceeds 3. This feature optimizes the harvesting process, solves the problem of plots with a small area. Formative pruning is much more convenient with such a relatively small size of the tree.

Felt cherry - how it grows and where, growing conditions

She prefers light, fertile sandy loam or loam, it is best that non-acidic, well-drained soil prevail at the growing site. It will not grow on peat bogs or waterlogged soil. Excessive moisture adversely affects growth, the ability to give color, fruit, resistance to cold. It must also be placed exclusively on sunny places, since she really does not like shade or even partial shade. Returning to the pH of the soil, it should be mentioned: if you have it sour, then it should be preliminarily limed (in spring or autumn).

Felt cherry, bushes with fruits, photo:

An important point - to get a generous harvest, you need to plant at least 3 bushes of different varieties close to each other. This is necessary for better cross-pollination! Self-fertile varieties are “Summer”, “Fairy Tale”, “Delight”, “Triana”, “Anniversary”, “Spark”, “Eastern Smuglyanka”, “Princess”, “Beauty”, “Children's”, “Dream”, “ Eastern". Of the self-fertile varieties, the most famous are Autumn Virovskaya, Natalie, Ocean Virovskaya, Alice.

Usually the berries ripen by the very middle of summer, and in the southern regions - by mid-June. Despite significant genetic differences with ordinary cherries, the close proximity of these two representatives, namely their simultaneous flowering, has an extremely positive effect on the taste and size of Chinese cherries.

flower buds and green berries felt cherries, photo:

This crop tolerates temperature drops quite well, sometimes down to -27°C ..-30°C, however, it reacts very negatively to spring (or winter) thaws. It will be better if at the very beginning of spring you rake more snow under the bushes, trample it more tightly, and lay it on top sawdust. So you protect the shrub from temperature changes.

Pros of growing felt cherries:

  1. It can be eaten already when the rest of the fruit representatives are just forming ovaries.
  2. Due to the low acid content, the berries are endowed with excellent taste, which allows them to be consumed by anyone (raw, in the form of jam or juice, as a raw material for sauces, marinades or pickles).
  3. Good adaptability of culture to the conditions of the region where it grows. Drought and frost resistance is also a plus.
  4. The seedling begins to bear fruit already in the second year of life in open ground(most varieties). The berries ripen quite early, stay on the branches for a long time.
  5. It has a high yield, with normal care, the fruits literally stick around the branches.
  6. Lack of root growth - in this culture, it does not appear at all.
  7. lovely element landscape design (hedge, decoration of borders, the main detail in mixed plantations).

This is an unpretentious culture, its cultivation will not require subtle agrotechnical knowledge from you, even a beginner will be able to successfully plant a shrub and take care of it. Well, finally, felt cherry is very beautiful like a flowering tree or with branches covered with fruits. As a deciduous shrub, it is also good.

Felt cherry - planting and care

The most acceptable time for planting seedlings is autumn or early spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed. If you plant bushes in the fall, then no later than September. For these purposes, they usually take seedlings that are already a year or two old.

A little higher it was already said that the landing site should be sunny. It should also be protected as far as possible from strong winds, drafts. Make sure that in the place intended for planting there is no stagnant water, the presence of closely lying groundwater. This factor should also be taken into account during the snowmelt in the spring. That is why a small hill is the most acceptable option for planting this crop.

Felt cherries are very sensitive to excessive moisture. root system. That's why this moment is one of the most important when planting, even on a hill it should not be too deep, so as not to block the root neck. It (the root neck) should be located above the soil level, because its deepening will subsequently lead to the death of the shrub. The requirements for the soil were also mentioned above, but if the nuance with the soil is of secondary importance, then the absence of excessive moisture, the location of the root collar during planting, is one of the prerequisites.

Landing conditions:

  1. The width of the hole should be at least 60-70 cm, and the depth should not be more than 50 cm. If you want to do everything according to the rules, then mix well the rotted manure (3 buckets), phosphorus (50 g), lime (500-700 g) , potassium (25-30 g) - the amount of supplements is calculated for approximately 1 square meter earth. Fill the planting hole with this soil mixture.
  2. The roots of the seedling should be carefully cut - about 20 cm, dip in a pre-prepared clay mortar(clay + water).
  3. We place the seedling in a hole (do not forget about the root neck) and fill it with the same earth mixture, slightly compact it, and generously pour it with water. In general, it is recommended to deepen the bush no more than how it grew before in the nursery - this is if you take planting material from there.
  4. The area around the bush can be mulched, for example, with peat.

As mentioned above, for a positive result, you need to plant at least three cherries in one area. Make sure that they do not grow too close to each other, but not too far (optimally - 2-3 meters). Of course, it is very convenient to use already grown seedlings. But you should also know that this culture is propagated by layering, cuttings, even by sowing seeds. With proper care for good location from one shrub you can expect from 7 to 10 kg of delicious sweet fruits.

Concerning autumn planting- if September has already passed, and a seedling has just come to you, then planting can be done next spring. Seedlings should be placed in a suitable container, sprinkled with earth, taken to the basement. There they will safely overwinter, and in the spring you will plant them, just first carry out a thorough revision of the roots, remove damaged or dried fragments. Further "duty" care consists in loosening the earth, watering, removing weeds.

As for top dressing, shrubs can be fertilized immediately after flowering by adding nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, organic additives to the soil of the near-stem circle (at the rate of 40 g: 80 g: 30 g: 7 kg). Liming of the soil is carried out once every five to six years.

Felt cherry - reproduction

If you are interested in the whole process "from scratch", then you can try the method of reproduction by planting seeds. Collect seeds from ripe fruits, wash and dry them. Around the end of summer, take a container with wet vermiculite or clean river sand (also wet), put the bones in there, leave them like that until October. At the appointed time, form shallow beds (3-4 cm), lay the seed. With the advent of spring in this place you will see young shoots, which in the same year will already reach about 50 cm in height. From young seedlings, you will choose the best representatives, plant them less often (at a distance of 1.5-3 m from each other), already as it should be for shrubs. This method does not guarantee 100% preservation of the original varietal characteristics, however, it opens up wide horizons for breeding experiments.

Propagation by cuttings - this option will require special conditions, more time, unlike all other methods. Plus, in this way you can get varietal representatives of a single species. This undertaking is carried out in July. The cutting is taken from a branch of the second or third order, it must be at least 15 cm long, and for these purposes, last year's wood must be preserved on the branches themselves. On an already separated cutting, there should be at least 2 cm of this very wood. Next, the cutting is kept in water for about 15-18 hours with the addition of a growth regulator (for example, "Heteroauxin"), and then vertically buried in the ground according to the "scheme" - 2 cm with bark and 1 cm of the green part of the cutting! After planting, the bed should be covered with a film (create a "greenhouse"), regularly irrigate seedlings, protect from bright sunlight first 4 weeks. After a couple of weeks, the cuttings will have adventitious roots, and after 4 weeks - difficult to root.

Reproduction by layering will not be difficult. In early spring, a good one-year-old shoot should be looked after in an adult bush. Near the shoot, you need to make a groove, up to 8 cm deep, lay the shoot, pin it to the ground with a wire bracket. Further, the shoot is covered with fertile soil, generously watered all summer. With the advent of autumn, fibrous roots and new shoots will already be formed on such a layer. It is divided into parts or left without division, as a result we get a new planting material.

Pruning felt cherries in spring

Felt cherry pruning is carried out in early spring - this is the most best time for this procedure. It is important that the buds have not yet had time to bloom, sap flow has not begun, then all the forces of the plant will be concentrated on flowering, fruit set.

The shrub undergoes formative pruning from the first year of life. Side branches that grow inside the crown, as well as dried, damaged or frozen during the winter, are subject to removal. Old branches that no longer bear fruit should also be removed. Multiple branches, which, taking into account the set fruits, will burden the tree too much, should also be removed.

On average, you should have about 12 strong, healthy, productive shoots left. Taking into account the fact that the entire crop is “concentrated” on those branches that are one year old, radical pruning is carried out in old shrubs (9-10 years old). This method allows you to completely replace the old skeletal branches with new young ones.

Pruning can also be carried out in the fall, only in this case it is necessary to take into account the new growth of branches. If the weather is warm, then the shoots continue to grow actively, and then freeze out with the onset of frost. Those branches that are 1 year old and have reached 70 cm in length should be shortened by about one third. With the advent of autumn, the so-called sanitary procedures are more relevant - cleaning the foliage, removing branches affected by pests (if there is such a thing). Everything remote is subject to burning, and wounded places are smeared with garden pitch.

Pruning in the spring is also a thinning of the crown, lightening its center, for better penetration of air currents, the rays of the sun.

Varieties of felt cherries

In general, all varieties of this crop can be divided into three subgroups according to the ripening time: early, medium, late. Berries of cherries of different varieties may have different colors. Of course, it is unrealistic to describe all varieties, but I would like to mention the most popular, often planted ones.

  • Natalie is a fairly common variety, loved by our gardeners. The bush is low (1.5-2 m), with a lush spreading crown, blooms with large flowers (in the second half of May), gives the same large dark red berries (average 4 g). From one bush, you can remove 8-9 kg of fruits with dense pulp. If you try to pick a berry from a branch, it is relatively easy to separate from the stem. Harvest time is around the twentieth of July.
  • A fairy tale is probably one of the lowest bushes, since its maximum height is 1-1.3 meters. The shrub has a not too thickened crown, which greatly facilitates the process of pruning and fruit picking. It blooms by the end of May, you can pick berries at the end of July. The fruits themselves are not small, about 3.5 g, slightly elongated, very dark color. It is a little more difficult to remove a berry from a branch than, for example, the Natalie variety, due to the deep-seated stalk. From an adult bush you can get about 10 kg of fruit.
  • Salute - a shrub boasts an oval spreading crown, which is approximately comparable in width to its height (1.5 - 1.7 m). It blooms by the end of May, yields a crop after 2 months. Oval berries are not located close to each other, medium-large in weight (3-3.5 g), bright pink, closer to scarlet. The berries themselves, foliage, shoots of the bush are distinguished by increased pubescence. The yield is high - about 10 kg of fruit can be harvested from an adult bush.
  • Rapture is a variety that is best suited for growing in middle lane Russia. The shrub most often grows up to 1.5 m in height, has a dense, spreading crown. The flowers are quite close to each other. Each fruit weighs approximately 3.3 g, has a bright scarlet color, a funny shape - a deep bed for the stalk, a slightly sloping top, a pronounced stripe-seam. The pulp of the berries is dense, slightly fibrous. The shrub blooms in mid-May, the harvest can be harvested by the end of July. From the bush you can remove 8-9 kg of fruit.
  • Ocean virovskaya is a shrub 1.8-2 meters high, the branches of which are literally plastered with bright burgundy fruits (2.5-3 g). This variety has a very short stem (about 0.2 cm), flowers bloom in the second half of May, the fruits ripen by the end of July. One adult bush can give 8-9 kg of berries, which are quite sweet, pleasant in taste, but practically do not have the usual cherry flavor.
  • Alice is a low shrub, about 1.5 m in height with an oval crown. This variety has good resistance to cold as well as drought. Diseases such as coccomycosis, clasterosporiasis do not touch him. The berries (weighing approximately 3.5 g) are maroon in color and ripen by the end of July. From one bush you can collect 8-9 kg of sweet juicy berries. The stalk (0.7 cm) allows you to more or less comfortably remove the fruits from the branches.
  • Summer - this variety has morphological features of felt and sand cherries. For the first couple of years, the bush grows inactively, has a high resistance to pocket disease, and is winter-hardy. Berries (weight 3-4 g) are light red in color, have an average resistance to transportation. It ripens by the 20th of July, after which the fruits can stay on the branches for quite a long time (about a month). From the bush you can collect 7-8 kg of fruit.
  • Damanka - a shrub of this variety can reach 2 m in height, the crown is sprawling, rounded. The weight of the berry is approximately 2.5-3 g. The variety is characterized by late ripening (late July / early August), the fruits have a rich maroon (almost black) color. The berries themselves are very sweet, in terms of taste they are considered one of the best among the other varieties of felt cherries. One adult bush gives about 8-10 kg of fruit. Winter hardy look.
  • Children's - a relatively low variety - 1.5-1.8 m in height, the crown is medium thickened. Berries on short stalks are very densely located to each other (like sea buckthorn). Fruit weight is 2-4 g, juicy, sweet with slight sourness. Very winter-hardy species, can withstand frosts down to -25..-27ºС. It gives color by the beginning of May, and in July it is already possible to harvest. Up to 10 kg of fruits can be removed from one adult bush.

If you set a goal, correctly calculate the timing of flowering, fruiting of individual varieties, then you can plant different varieties. The difference between the ripening periods is approximately 20-30 days, so if you like this berry, you can provide yourself with fresh servings of fruits for quite a long time. Plus, almost all fruits after ripening stay on the branches for a long time.

Felt cherry - diseases and pests

Sometimes it happens that the appearance of a shrub indicates problems: the foliage wilts, the foliage curls, the newly set fruits fall or wrinkle. Alas, this culture is also prone to disease, like all the green inhabitants of our plots.

Very often felt cherry diseases have similar symptoms. It is important to establish the correct diagnosis, as soon as possible to apply the appropriate treatment. The country “first aid kit” of each of us includes Bordeaux mixture, garden pitch, slaked lime, blue vitriol. Also mandatory is the presence of fungicides, insecticides, because these drugs, compounds are most often used to treat plants, trees, shrubs.

Consider the most common diseases.

Moniliosis or monilial burn

It is manifested by the appearance of small cracks on the bark of a shrub, from which gum is released. The foliage wilts, turns yellow, the branches gradually dry out, from the outside it really looks as if the shrub was burned by a strong heat. The fungus Monilia is responsible for this process, it spreads very quickly throughout the plant, affecting healthy shoots. If measures are not taken in time, the felt cherry will die. First you need to remove all affected fragments (and burn).

But it is better not to wait until the first signs of the disease appear. The best control measures are prevention. For prevention, just before the beginning of flowering, the entire shrub is treated with one of the means - Horus, Fundazol, Topaz, Topsin. They are diluted with water (10-15 g + 10 l of water), if it rains, then the irrigation procedure should be repeated after the end of the flowering phase.

If the shrub was saved, then in the fall, next spring (before bud break), such treatments will need to be repeated. Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate (3% solutions) can also be used for these subsequent irrigations.

Clasterosporiasis or perforated spotting

The cause of this disease is the fungus Clasterosporium carpophilum, which is activated when high humidity, damp. This fungus is so tenacious that it calmly endures the winter, actively gets down to business with the advent of spring. Initially, dark spots appear on the leaves, which then turn into holes. The dark edging of the edges of the hole signals to us that this is clasterosporiasis, and not some other disease. Wind, insects spread spores of the fungus from infected plants to healthy ones.

The bark of the shrub also suffers - cracks appear, oozing gum, as a result, the disease covers the bush, growth slows down, leaves are shed, the shoots dry out. Preventive measures can be considered timely thinning of the crown, the application of fertilizers that give vitality to the shrub, the cleaning of foliage, all kinds of excess growth.

With the advent of spring, it is recommended to carry out a triple treatment of the bushes: irrigation with Bordeaux mixture until the buds have blossomed, irrigation with Kuproksat on slightly ajar buds, repeated spraying with Kuproksat 2 weeks after the first treatment. If the shrub is already sick, then a radical cutting of all the affected fragments is performed.

coccomycosis

pocket disease

And again, the fungus, this is Taphrina, manifests itself very noticeably - after the end of the flowering phase, pitted fruits appear, wrinkled, flat (looks like a deflated balloon). Inside the fruits are pathogenic spores, where they ripen. As soon as you notice this, you should immediately remove all infected shoots with fruits, burn them. The plant itself must be treated with fungicides. Preventive spring treatments with Fundazol, Fitosporin-M, Abiga Peak, Albit, Skor will help you. They also treat the plant after removing diseased fragments.

Pocket disease, photo:

Pests

As for pests, the scale insect, aphid, plum codling moth, leafworm also do not ignore felt cherries.

An ash-soap solution helps with aphids (1 piece of laundry soap + a glass of ash + 10 liters of water), and if this is a particularly neglected case, the preparations "Commander", "Iskra", "Avant", "Agravertin", "Admiral" (insecticides ).

Spring preventive irrigation with the use of the “Prophylactin” product (half a liter of the drug + 1 bucket of water) helps from the leaflet. If the matter has already taken a serious turn, then pyrethroid products, such as Accord, Alphashans, Fatrin, Alfatsin, will help you. Processing should be carried out on a cool day (not higher than + 23 ° C), since these preparations become ineffective in hot weather.

Arranged traps with sweet sticky contents (berry compote + glue or thick sugar syrup), butterflies flock to the smell and die, bogged down in a sticky mass. Such traps should be cleaned regularly, adding fresh bait mixture.

As for chemical procedures, immediately after the completion of the flowering phase, the shrub should be treated with "Decis" or "Alatar" - this will destroy the first codling moths. For the second time, at the end of July, the plant is again treated with Karbofos - this is already a method of fighting the second pest invasion.

The fight with the scale insect is quite difficult, if only because the insects are protected by a strong chitinous shell. To get rid of the pest, mechanical scraping off of harmful "shields" + subsequent treatment of the plant with Actellik is used. If the problem has taken on a serious scale, then absolutely all the affected parts of the bush are cut out and burned. The cherry itself is treated with "Preparation 30-D" (insectoacaricide). The same preparation is recommended for spring preventive spraying (500 g + 10 l of water).

Shield on felt cherry, photo:

As for the ardent admirers of Chinese cherries - mice, they are usually used against metal mesh with small cells, which is wrapped around the trunk of a shrub several times. Thus, rodents will not get to the bark, they will not be able to feast on it. This should be done in the fall, as mice, even in winter (under the snow) can make their way to the cherry.

Summing up, we can say that A complex approach to prevention, protection will help keep your plantings from pests and diseases. Do not forget about the rules of planting (root collar), regular spring or autumn pruning. About spring preventive spraying, appropriate care during the entire season (as well as after it) should also be remembered. With the advent of autumn, be sure to dig up the tree trunks. If you follow these simple truths, then felt cherries, growing and caring for them, as well as collecting bountiful harvest will give you only positive emotions.

When it comes to growing cherries, most often they mean an ordinary variety that is widespread in Russian gardens.

How to plant a felt cherry, and what must be taken into account?

felt cherry

However, some gardeners like felt cherries much more, and for good reason:

  • the fruits of felt cherries are fragrant, very juicy, tender, sweet with or without slight sourness;
  • the pulp contains polysaccharides, vitamin C and substances that have a beneficial effect on blood pressure, blood composition, the functioning of the heart muscle and the digestive system. Fresh cherry felt is especially appreciated - beneficial features it is best manifested in this form;
  • blooming felt cherry is incredibly beautiful (photo attached to the article), so it is also used for decorative purposes;
  • fruiting begins in the second year;
  • cherries begin to ripen from the end of June and do not fall off for a long time;
  • cherry productivity is high - with good care and suitable climatic conditions, the bush is densely strewn with berries, like sea buckthorn;
  • the tree is unpretentious, resistant to frost and drought;
  • no need, since it does not form in felt cherries;
  • To coccomycosis the tree is completely immune.

It would seem that felt cherry is good for everyone - caring for it is quite simple, the fruits are tasty, and the harvests are plentiful. But there are also enough shortcomings in this variety of cherries: you will not find the fruits of felt cherries on sale, because they are poorly stored and transported; the tree ages after 10 years; without pruning, the bush thickens strongly; felt cherry is often affected by moniliosis. In addition, felt cherries are self-fertile - other varieties must grow nearby (even ordinary or steppe cherries), otherwise there will be no harvest.

Knowing how to properly grow and care for felted cherries will help you easily overcome the disadvantages of this species while enjoying the benefits listed above.

Video about felt cherries

Taking into account the self-infertility of felt cherries, for better pollination it is necessary to plant at least two varieties at once that bloom at the same time. So, felt cherry Natalie of medium ripening with large tasty fruits and a yield of up to 7 kg per bush is popular. Among mid-season varieties also common: cherry felt Tsarevna, Eastern, Fairy Tale. Early varieties: Nursery, Alice, Delight. From late varieties popular: Summer, Beauty, Ocean Virovskaya, Altana.

Felt cherry of the White variety looks very unusual, strewn with fruits of a matte white color during fruiting. The grade differs in high productivity and worthy tastes.

cherry planting

Important rules for planting felt cherries:

  • choose a sunny place for cherries, where water does not stagnate;
  • the soil is desirable light loamy or sandy loam, peat bogs and waterlogged heavy soils are not suitable;
  • for a seedling, dig a hole with a depth and diameter of up to half a meter;
  • fill the planting hole with a well-mixed soil mixture with the addition of rotted manure, lime, potassium and phosphorus;
  • cut the root system of a cherry seedling by 20 centimeters to lateral roots better developed;
  • lower the roots into a clay mash;
  • so that the felt cherry is well accepted in the new place, the seedling should be planted at the same depth as in the nursery;
  • fill the cherry seedling installed in the pit with soil mixture and compact the soil a little, and then pour it abundantly with water;
  • mulch the ground around the cherry seedling with peat to regulate soil moisture and reduce the need for watering.

felt cherry

Felt cherries can be planted not only with ready-made seedlings - they are also propagated by green cuttings (in greenhouses), layering, and even by simply sowing seeds before winter.

Felt Cherry Care Basics

In the spring, after the end of cherry blossoms, it is fed with complex mineral fertilizers with a nitrogen content, fertilizing along the edge of the near-stem circle. At the same time, the soil is loosened no more than 4 cm deep, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the roots of the seedling. In autumn, when fertilizing cherries, nitrogen is excluded so as not to cause active growth of shoots that will freeze during the first frost.

Shrubs should be watered moderately, since excess moisture has a bad effect on the growth of felt cherries, its fruiting and preparation for winter.

Video about growing felt cherries

To form a neat bush, annual felt cherry seedlings are cut at a height of 40 cm, from the second year all side branches are shortened by a third of the length. In addition, the cherry crown will need to be constantly monitored, avoiding thickening in the center of the tree. In order for the felt cherry to grow and bear fruit better, pruning of branches should be annual, it should be carried out in early spring. It is enough to leave 8-10 strong shoots, and cut the rest, Special attention devoting poorly located, diseased, old, fruit-bearing branches.

If you want a high-yielding felt cherry to grow in your garden, planting, care and pruning must be carried out in accordance with all the rules. The main thing is not to leave the tree unattended and prevent the development of moniliosis, otherwise the disease will pass to other stone plants in your area.