Homemade oak table. DIY oak dining table. Choosing a table model

This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining room, a utility table, or installed in a living room, on a veranda, on a property, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But many people are not satisfied with purchased products in terms of a number of parameters - size, design features, form or for any other reason.

Considering that wood is relatively easy to cut and sand, making a table from it according to your own drawing, with your own hands, is not a problem for a good owner. And it will come out much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.

Room

Ideally, this is an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy will do. Working with wood on the site, under open air- means being completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are suitable ones for making furniture " square meters", then you should worry about quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on changes in wind direction and pressure), and a hood is installed.

Arguments that if you use protective equipment, you can work in a closed space do not stand up to criticism. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some action is being performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line nor high-quality surface treatment of the wood (not to mention the impregnation and finishing coating with paint and varnish) will be possible.

One cannot ignore the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations: if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.

Tools

Their selection depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” simple design made of wood, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not lay claim to the elegance of a wooden table and does not aim to achieve its originality, then an ordinary carpenter’s set will be enough.

For more “delicate” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes and external design, special devices will be needed.

El/jigsaw

Miter box rotating

Sander

Hand router

Many of the listed devices can be rented if making furniture is not a hobby, but a necessity.

Impregnating and other compositions

Rot protection:

Recycling machine oil is an effective, and also free, remedy. But not for dining tables.
Flaxseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deeply into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. The downside is the high cost. But if the table is intended for eating, this is an excellent option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, or streaks, unlike processing.
Water-polymer emulsion. It is characterized by long-lasting action and safety for health.
Acrylic varnishes. They have practically supplanted their predecessors in the “NC” category, since they are harmless and in many respects better compositions, which are diluted with solvents.
PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about joinery compositions -.

To decorate a tree:

Clear varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can preserve the texture of the wood and shade it.
Stains.
Varnishes with a coloring effect (tinting).
Paints (but only for wood!).
Putties.

Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition of any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a discarded board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. It is more than advisable, since it is not always possible to purchase exactly what you need on the market.

Fasteners

It is better to ignore all advice on assembling a wooden table using nails (the reasoning is simple, quick and cheap). The reasons are as follows:

The nail easily pricks dry wood (and this is exactly what is used; more on that below).
It is quite difficult to direct its leg correctly (strictly vertically). In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your mistake.
A tree, even the most protected from rot, succumbs to it over time. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2–3 will have to be changed.

When assembling a wooden table, if glue alone is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
Sometimes its individual parts (at joints) require reinforcement. Strengthening the strength with hardware with a thicker and longer leg is impractical. The reason is the same - the likelihood of the tree splitting. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, and corners are used.

Features of choosing wood

Some people focus on the cost of lumber, others care about the wood’s resistance to rot, and for others, its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use the same type of wood for a table unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in a utility room or garage. This is exactly what many novice “craftsmen” do, selecting the same type of boards and bars from what is left from construction or renovation and gathering dust in the barn.

When making a wooden table for a living space, veranda, etc., you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if you do not have sufficient experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in your life is just a kind of training in making and gaining experience.

Tabletop

If the size of the countertop is small, then you can use wood-based slab products (OSV, OSV and the like). But only with lamination to prevent the material from swelling when liquid gets on the table surface. For example, chipboard.

Legs Dowels

Low-grade lumber is not used in the furniture industry. This is not economically feasible, since pre-processing wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But when making anything, wood of lower grades, substandard wood is just right. The same pallets left over after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.

And not just because it is free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood can be turned into advantages with the right approach. For example, after coating with colorless varnish, the tabletop acquires a unique, original look.

The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.

If pine is chosen for the tabletop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arches are called humps. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account when laying them in a row. Samples obtained by tangential cutting are arranged alternatingly (one top down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but compliance with this recommendation eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.

For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. As wood shrinks, it will become deformed; This is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, and bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly become warped, and you will have to repair it. And here you need to decide whether to purchase highly dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second one will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.

Firstly, it is necessary to ensure stable temperature regime at the place where the workpieces are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
Thirdly, and perhaps this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be as expected; Even this requires practice.

This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make furniture from wood for the first time, you should focus on the simplest table for household needs made of cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.

Options and patterns of wooden tables

It should immediately be noted that any work related to the design and self-assembly- the process is creative. There are no stereotypes in this matter, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be like. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms It is worth choosing designs whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, camping, hanging, garden, level, and so on.

Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms ah for their intended purpose, they are made stationary, that is, unchangeable in size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are rigidly fixed; no hinge joints.

Features of assembling wooden tables

If a person undertakes to make something, it means that he knows how to use tools, read blueprints and work with lumber. Such home handyman There is no need to learn the basics of carpentry. But it would be worth noting a number of nuances when making a wooden table. These notes will only help in the process.

Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that you assemble with your own hands, the ones listed below are quite enough.

On the dowels

In this case, the parts are fastened by placing them on an adhesive composition (Fig. 1 – 3).

The nuance is that to make the “cylinders” that are inserted into pre-drilled “channels”, a tree of a denser structure than the table elements is taken. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.

These round sticks are available for sale in any furniture showroom in several sizes. Grind them out, even having carpentry machine- an irrational waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for detachable connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level shelving, etc.).

You should not use nails to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - it will begin to “shatter”, especially if the table is intended to be installed on the territory or in an unheated room.

On the kings

It is advisable to make such connections if the table either has to be disassembled periodically, or without this it is impossible to move it through the doorway. Although not all drawers require dismantling the structure. The most commonly used options are shown in the figures.

Bolted

Such connections are used mainly for garden furniture or those installed in extensions; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.

The nuance of working with fasteners

In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the desired direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation using a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the axial lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, to “plant” the screw, you can do without a screwdriver.

Features of wood processing

Everyone knows that a plane is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding has to be done many times. Here, a lot depends on the type of wood and the degree of drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the fibers may “stand up”. There's nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely this method that can bring “problem” wood to ideal “smoothness.”

To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.

Features of external decoration

Minor defects in the form of cracks and chips are eliminated with putty.
Once sanding is complete, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, the usual one will help out household vacuum cleaner with the appropriate nozzle. It is recommended that after such cleaning, wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat removing any remaining dust. After this, you can safely start applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the wood.
You can add originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, unusual shape tabletops or legs, combination of textures different breeds and so on. One of the good options is artistic painting.

And finally. Work on self-production anything made of wood (the same table) is just the initial stage of mastering the skill of a “designer-assembler”. Having developed technologies and techniques on wood and acquired the necessary skills, it is enough to simply switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made even according to the simplest drawing (besides the pleasure of work and money saved) are obvious - time not wasted.

Furniture made from solid wood has been highly valued at all times. Now it can rightfully be considered a luxury item. However, anyone who has basic carpentry skills and sufficient desire can make table from an array with minimal investment.

Furniture should be durable, reliable, beautiful, and correspond to its functional purpose.

Of course, buy finished product much simpler and faster, but making it yourself has a number of advantages:

Price. The cost of a table made of natural wood is quite high.

However, when made at home, it will decrease significantly.
Quality. By selecting wood yourself, the risk of using low-quality materials is reduced.

You can choose exactly the breed that will meet all the necessary technical and aesthetic requirements.
Durability , directly related to the build quality of the product. When creating furniture for yourself, even a novice carpenter will assemble the structure carefully and reliably.
Pre-treatment of all boards with special protective equipment guarantees long service life.
Design . Despite the huge selection in stores, situations often arise when you like everything, but would like to change some small detail.
By making a table yourself, you can take into account all the nuances and create the ideal model for yourself.
And of course, there is nothing more enjoyable than admiring and using your creation every day.

This is a great opportunity not only to save money, but also to bring a piece of your soul into your home.

Choosing a table model

Before you begin selecting materials and directly creating a piece of furniture, you need to decide on its design. The model directly depends on functional purpose and features of the room.

For example, if the room is small, it is better to choose compact products.

In this case, a neat one will do. round table IR on 1 leg.

For a spacious dining room, living room ideal option– classic rectangular table.

It can also be a roomy oval table with a massive base.

If there is a need for a product with a large capacity, but the room does not require the presence of large items, you should think about a sliding or folding design.

If necessary, the tabletop can be extended.

For beginning craftsmen, it is easier to make a piece of furniture square or rectangular shape on 4 medium sized legs.

This table is made without additional mechanisms.

Which type of wood is better?

Each type of wood has its own characteristics that should be taken into account when designing furniture.

People have long considered wood as the main building material.

For a more convenient and detailed comparison of characteristics, let's refer to the table.

Table 1. The most common types of wood used in the furniture industry

Name	Average density kg/m 3	Chip strength	Characteristics
Oak	700	9,9	A very durable rock, resistant to rotting processes. It has a beautiful, noble texture.
Beech	670	12,1	Representative hard rocks, easy to process, pliable. However, it is prone to rotting, which requires careful antiseptic treatment. When it dries out, it deforms more than oak.
Larch	660	9,8	Durable, resistant to rotting and deformation, prone to cracking. Therefore, it is not recommended for rooms where there are constant changes in humidity and temperature.
Birch	630	9,0	Quite durable, resistant to deformation, chipping and cracking, but with constant humidity it has a tendency to rot. This drawback is easily neutralized with the help of antiseptic treatment, since wood is easily impregnated with special compounds.
Pine	500	7,4	Durable, soft, lightweight, slightly deformable. Due to its natural characteristics, it is pliable when working. Easily impregnated with antiseptic compounds.
Spruce	450	6,8	Less smooth texture compared to pine, has a larger number of knots. It is not so well treated with an antiseptic, it is more capricious in processing.
Aspen	380	6,5	The texture is not particularly expressive, the color is whitish-green. Due to its softness, it does not crack, is easy to process, and is little susceptible to rotting. However, marks from mechanical influences may remain on surfaces made of this material (for example, if a child draws with strong pressure on a pen or pencil)
Fir	370	5,9	It is a soft breed, does not tolerate moisture well, is susceptible to decay, and is therefore not suitable for furniture that will be used outdoors or in rooms with high humidity. It is easy to process, which will simplify the work of novice carpenters.

So, after carefully studying the table, it becomes clear that soft woods (aspen, fir) will be easy to work with, but during service they may disappoint due to their susceptibility to mechanical stress and low moisture resistance. It's better to opt for more durum varieties such as pine, larch, beech and oak.

We did not consider heavy-duty wood species (hornbeam, yew, etc.), since their processing is extremely difficult at home.

Required materials

To make the table you will need the following materials.

Beam 40 mm x 40 mm for attaching the supporting part to the table top and giving the structure strength and stability.
Beam 70 mm x 70 mm for making legs. If the design includes classic carved balusters, and your experience in woodworking does not allow you to make them yourself, you can always pick them up in a furniture fittings store suitable option and purchase finished product elements.
boards and for countertops (thickness not less than 40 mm).
Wood glue.
Furniture dowels and confirmants.
Antiseptic.
Varnish or glaze for processing wooden products.

The number of boards depends on their width and the expected size of the table.

Tools for work

All the tools necessary for work can be divided into 3 groups.

Measuring tools:

Metal ruler 50-100 cm;
Roulette;
Metal square;
Manual level 50-80 cm.

Tools for creating furniture with your own hands.

Tools for working with wooden surfaces:

Saw/hacksaw;
Jointer;
Sanding machine, sandpaper.

The necessary set of tools.

Tools for assembling the product:

Wedge or screw clamps;
Mallet (suitable for both wooden and rubber strikers)
Screwdrivers with different points;
Drill, screwdriver.

Making a wooden table with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Tabletop

Handle everything thoroughly boards.

Having achieved a perfectly flat and smooth surface, drill holes for dowels in each end in increments of 10-12 cm (for the outer boards they should be made only on one side).

All edges must be milled and surfaces sanded.

After thorough cleaning of chips and dust, they must be coated with special wood glue (PVA can be used).

Then the boards are fastened together using wooden dowels placed in the prepared holes.

Important! When gluing, direct the pattern in different directions. This increases the strength of the product and reduces the risk of deformation.

When the canvas of boards is assembled, it is necessary to dry it, securing it with clamps.

After complete drying, cut off excess glue construction knife and sand the surface with a sander.Treat the finished shield with a special antiseptic.

Thus, it takes one day of work to make a canvas from wood.

Underframe

Let's look at the process of creating a standard underframe (4 legs and a rectangular frame).

Saw off the required size beams for all elements, process them using grinder or by hand with sandpaper and coat with antiseptic.

To save time, it is better to carry out the procedure in parallel with the countertop.

When the prepared elements are ready, fasten pairs of legs with smaller cross beams using furniture screws.

They can be pre-lubricated with glue.

Important! Self-tapping screws are screwed in with inside at an acute angle to the surface.

In the same way, fasten the legs with long beams.

Drill holes in the center of each leg for further assembly of the furniture.

If you are planning to do table two-color, painting of the prepared elements should be done before final assembly. If the product is the same color, assemble the structure and paint it entirely.

Final installation of the product

Place the table top face down on a flat, clean surface and begin working:

Place the base on top the way it should be attached and draw a pencil along the inside.

Mark the joints of the parts in increments of 200 - 230 mm on both surfaces.

Drill holes in the underframe and tabletop, remove shavings from them, coat them with glue and assemble the product using special furniture fastenings(as in the manufacture of wooden canvas). Use a mallet if necessary.

Leave the product to dry for a day (at least 12 hours).

Final stage

When the structure is assembled, perform final sanding, apply decorative elements in accordance with design project and cover with several layers of varnish or glaze.

By following the instructions, you can easily make a wooden table with your own hands.

Important! Each layer of coating must dry completely. Therefore, the final finishing of the table will take at least 1 more day. Therefore, the process of creating your own masterpiece from an array will take you about 3-4 days.

By spending a minimum amount of money and a few days, you will receive a reliable and durable dining plank table and oak, pine or other material you like, and a lot of positive emotions.

So you have learned how to make your own table from solid wood.

VIDEO: DIY solid wood dining table.

Of the abundance of furniture on offer, wooden tables and chairs remain popular everywhere. Natural materials ensure environmental friendliness, safety and durability of the models. Solid wood furniture can be found in any country house, apartment or office.

In addition, you can make wooden furniture yourself.

Wooden kitchen tables

There are a few things to consider before purchasing a table. The comfort and mood of household members in the kitchen depends on them.

Ergonomics

Due to the fact that small apartments usually have kitchens small sizes, do not forget about ergonomics. First of all, when choosing a wooden dining table, you should take into account the comfort of staying near kitchen furniture.

It’s not comfortable when you rest your elbows or feet on your neighbor or on the legs of the table. In addition, there should be an optimal distance from the table to other pieces of furniture. The table should be located approximately 80 cm from walls and other objects in the kitchen.

The height of the table also plays an important role. It should be selected depending on the height of the people sitting behind him. Low (70-74 cm) tables are recommended for short people. Those whose height is between 1.6 m and 1.7 m should buy tables with standard sizes(75-76 cm).

Appearance of the tabletop

Before choosing a tabletop design, you need to calculate how many people typically need to be seated at it. Shapes are found: oval, round and rectangular and square.

Tables that do not have corners should be placed in spacious kitchens. Tables with a square or rectangle shape fit perfectly into small spaces. You should see if it's suitable appearance table for the general interior.

Practicality

There are many models that provide additional functionality, namely, they replace a cabinet and can be folded and unfolded if necessary.

Wooden sliding table- This great solution for those owners who suffer from a lack of space in the room for eating.

Like any furniture, these products have a number of positive and negative qualities. Wooden tables for the kitchen have the following advantages:

uniqueness and originality of wood texture, which cannot be recreated;
ability to withstand shocks and everyday use for a long time;
environmentally friendly, thanks to natural material that does not contain glue and does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere.

TO negative characteristics may include: high cost, vulnerability to moisture and dampness. At elevated temperature the material may dry out, thereby causing cracks and loosening of the table. Over time, the surface may darken or be attacked by pests.

Wood table in the living room

Recently, it has become fashionable to decorate living spaces in white colors. A combination of white furniture and light-colored walls and windows is actively used. Dark and white can also be combined in furniture.

For example, the tabletop may be white, while the legs and edging of the table are dark. Such furniture is often used when decorating a room in a minimalist style. In a spacious living room or studio, a white wooden table will be an excellent solution.

The glass and wood table is often found in front of the sofa, comes in a low size and is used as a fashionable piece of furniture in the living room. It is intended for drinking tea in front of the TV, storing books and magazines, and also for working in front of a laptop.

Solid wood table in the country

On personal plot The most important place for gathering loved ones and guests is a gazebo or outdoor space.

In nature, one is drawn to everything natural, so a wooden table for a garden is a combination of beauty and practicality in one item. In addition, this piece of furniture goes well with the overall rustic style.

Wooden tables for a summer cottage should not only be durable, but also moisture resistant. If the table will often be exposed to moisture, you should choose a product made of larch.

Country tables should have the ability not to deteriorate under the scorching sun. Due to its density, the best material For country table considered walnut or oak. This wood is considered hard and expressive. To resist pests, oak is stained, that is, kept in water for some time. Such material is more expensive than its counterparts.

You can save money if you choose a table made of coniferous wood. They are lightweight, pleasant in color, smell and moisture resistant. The increased resin content resists water absorption.

How to make a wooden table yourself?

Some summer residents make tables themselves. A creative approach and hard work will allow you to save money and create a unique thing in your summer cottage. Making a wooden table with your own hands is not at all difficult. Enough to have in your arsenal necessary materials, tools and some time.

Tools and materials needed for manufacturing:

plane;
sanding machine or paper;
screwdriver with a set of bits;
jigsaw or saw;
chisel;
staining and varnishing agents;
metal corners;
measuring tape;
building level;
accessories for fastening (screws, bolts, self-tapping screws);
boards 40 or 50 mm thick;
4 bars for wooden legs table size 50x50 mm;
auxiliary boards 40 mm thick for attaching the tabletop.

Procedure (step by step instructions)

Decide on the dimensions of the future homemade product. If the table length is greater than the standard values, it is necessary to install at least four racks.
Pre-plane the boards for the tabletop and saw them to the required size.
Place five boards in parallel, fasten them from below with self-tapping screws to the auxiliary cross boards. It is necessary to leave space for the table legs.
Install the bars for the legs using metal corners and secure them to the tabletop.
To prevent distortions and stability of the legs, pass the strips around the perimeter under the tabletop. If the table has more than four legs, an additional cross bar must be strengthened in the middle.
Clean the edges of the table top with sandpaper on all sides.
Cover the product with pest repellents (stain) and, if desired, apply a layer of varnish.

There are many ways to create a table with your own hands. The final version of the homemade wooden table we proposed can be seen in the photo.

Wooden tables for kids

When a young child grows up and begins to sit independently, the time comes to feed him various complementary foods.

A wooden feeding table is the most good option furniture designed for comfortable eating. Tables are usually made together with chairs and have a common design.

There are several types of children's chairs:

transformable chairs
chairs with adjustable backrest.

In the first case, the seat height is adjusted according to purpose. The child can not only eat at the table, but also play if you remove the folding wooden table and lower the seat.

In the second case, the adjustable seat height allows you to raise the baby higher or lower it safe distance to the floor. Even if the maneuver is unsuccessful, the child will not be able to harm himself and will give the mother the opportunity to do everyday chores in the kitchen.

When buying wooden feeding tables, parents do not have to worry about the health of the child - allergic reactions he won't have it. Therefore, natural wood material is most often used to make children's furniture.

When buying a table, you should pay attention to sharp corners, which can cause unwanted damage to its little owner.

Finally, I would like to say that thanks to wooden furniture There are many possibilities to arrange your home for different design. Particularly popular rustic style using natural materials and copying the antique interior.

Safety and your own health directly depend on the type of materials that are in your home.

Another important fact is that wood is a material that can be worked with without using complex tools and equipment. Thus, any man is able to create beautiful things on his own for reasonable money.

Photo of a wooden table

A table is the second item after a stool that a beginning amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need something separate from the living rooms. production premises: Woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. That's why home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, on the right there:

Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with the complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; There are also belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
It is also preferable to rent at first hand router on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines circular saw, jointing, wood turning machines and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting of horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in southern regions, and juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapon stocks; full-fledged plastic replacement they don't have one yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness; the most delicate carvings on walnut do not chip. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made of boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like this kind of wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from rotting - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior to acrylic varnishes in all respects water based; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tacky before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production This is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in Fig. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the table top can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, perhaps with niches and/or mechanisms, or just a plate - a base - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the most weak point table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with detachable drawers, see fig. right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings complete absence Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach legs with a round head and any legs in general, but you need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. IN small apartment With narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to fit into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m thick 20-60 mm with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget about the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming sells well to small furniture companies. They always have his waste; of them you are willing and for completely affordable price They will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end PVC edging(edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.

The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.

The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.

Before installing the edging, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.

The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Often, countertops are assembled without bands on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good board panel on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But in the right hands, stacked tabletops made from fragments are simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: load-bearing frame made; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

That's right. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The aesthetic appearance is very desirable, but is not decisive: suddenly you messed up with the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of laminated chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you're not too lazy to put your hands to it, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. drawings kitchen table in rustic style. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or any metal fasteners. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best best option: due to availability sharp corners without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, it is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) tied up, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of the senator-broom, sorry, broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. Above on the right is a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business table. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

Table in main room at home should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By lifting the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and when fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. These are essentially 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but an amateur would be better off choosing a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be “brought to fruition,” but a spring table almost always does. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving apart/sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at the beginning.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of renewing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

If you have seen handmade oak furniture at least a few times, then you understand how different it is both in appearance and durability from modern options from cheap substitutes. After all, solid wood products are not only different beautiful view, but strength and durability. Natural wood It has always been and will be a sign of good taste and sophistication, even furniture made of solid pine, if it is beautifully made, will look better than artificial materials.

Manually making crafts from wood is a complex and labor-intensive process that requires quite large quantity equipment so that the result looks really beautiful. It is worth noting that making furniture from solid wood is a job that only professional carpenters do. But if a person has a desire, then he can master any profession, the most important thing is to study diligently.

To work with oak, to be able to do beautiful furniture, you need a lot of equipment:

Drill and set of drills for wood (their sharpening is different)
Jigsaw and miter saw
Hand router
Set of clamps
Manual electric plane
Sanding machine
Tape measure, caliper, corner
Glue and finishing varnishes

This is the minimum set of tools to start making solid wood furniture with your own hands. In addition, if you want to make cylindrical, conical and shaped surfaces, then you will additionally need lathe. And this is only in order to make crafts no larger than a chair or stool, since table tops and other large areas of wood are first glued together from bars, and then processed on a jointer and thicknesser so that their surface is even.

Solid oak plates made using a lathe

Of course, some tools can be excluded from this list, but in this case, to make beautiful oak furniture with your own hands, you will need much more time. And besides, your crafts will look quite primitive.