Blacksmith's forge made of brick. DIY brick forge. Manufacturing the forge support frame

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Some of you are interested in forging, and the main tool for it is the forge itself.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “SVAROG Forge” will tell you how to make it using the simplest materials at hand.

Materials.
- Pine board 20X200 mm
- Clay, coal
- Hemp rope
- Old hairdryer
- Hose cut
- Steel pipe
- Corners, wood screws
- Painting tape.

Tools used by the author.
- , cutting disc
-
- , feather drills for wood
- Hammer, anvil, pliers
- Screwdriver, bucket, mixer.

Manufacturing process.
First of all, the master assembles a box for the forge from ordinary pine boards. To connect them together, furniture corners and wood screws are used.




He then mixes the clay using a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. He collected it on the river bank.




To reinforce the solution, the master adds shredded hemp rope, although scraps of fiberglass mesh can also be used.




Now he puts the solution inside the box and forms the bowl of the forge. He selected its dimensions for small blades and workpieces.






The author pours river sand around the bowl. A hole is drilled in the side wall with a feather drill for a tube through which air will be pumped.




He welds a socket like this to one end of the tube. The second end is cut at an angle, this will avoid clogging the tube with ash.




In order to fix the tube to the body, the author welded a couple of nuts to it and screwed it to the body.


When attaching the hair dryer to the tube, he did not invent anything, and tied it to the socket with masking tape. He bought a hairdryer on the market, the cheapest one. A hairdryer with a broken heater will also work. It only requires the injection of cold air. In the case of using a new cheap hair dryer, important point It is precisely the cold air supply mode, otherwise the hair dryer will have to be disassembled and the coil disconnected.




Using a grinder, the author made three slits in the upper part of the tube. Then I put a piece of rubber hose on them. This way it will be possible to regulate the amount of air supplied to the furnace.






Everything is ready, you can load coal and light the forge. This is how he heats up the first blank for the blade.






The temperature is more than sufficient to work with it.




After forging, the master reduces the air supply and hardens the blade in machine oil.








The next test subject will be a sandwich made from two pieces of steel strip and a piece of file.








After forging, this forge looks like this.

Do-it-yourself forging has not lost its relevance nowadays. To impart plastic properties to a metal, it must be heated. The blacksmith's forge successfully copes with this task. Its main function is to gradually increase the temperature at which the metal can be forged. The forging temperature is about 1200 0 C. There are several types of forges, each of which can be purchased at a specialized store, but in order to save money, you can make a forge with your own hands.

There are 3 classifications of forges for forging with your own hands:

  • by design features;
  • on the fuel used;
  • depending on the surface size.

Depending on the design, closed or open forges are distinguished. Depending on what fuel is used for the forge, there are furnaces running on fuel oil, coal and gas forges. The basis for dividing furnaces by surface size is small, medium, and large structures.

The use of coal-fired forges is an outdated procedure for forging. This is due to a number of disadvantages of this type of fuel.

Coal heats the forge unevenly and requires significant consumption. A coal-fired device has low efficiency.

Furnaces running on fuel oil are also becoming obsolete in terms of use. But this type, even if it is not used on an industrial scale, can be successfully used at home.

Making a gas forge does not take much time.

In this case, it is enough to take steel scraps and 6 fireclay bricks.

Forge structure

Any homemade horn for forging must include the following components:

  • air duct;
  • valve;
  • crucible;
  • firebox with grate;
  • umbrella;
  • chimney or gas outlet (depending on the type of furnace);
  • window for feeding workpieces;
  • air drainage;
  • hardening bath;
  • forge table;
  • air chamber;
  • forge tent;
  • gas chamber.

Making a forge with your own hands

It is recommended to make closed-type forges. They consist of these components: masonry (lining), support frame and racks, chimney, hearth, fan and damper. To create a homemade forge you will need the following materials:

  • profiled rolled steel;
  • coating;
  • steel in the form of thick sheets;
  • sheet steel for exterior finishing;
  • chimneys made of steel;
  • fire brick.

Profile rolled metal is used for the manufacture of support posts, frames and dampers. The coating used must be strong enough to withstand fire. The same requirements apply to thick sheet steel. It should also be well protected from the action high temperatures and fire.

Manufacturing the forge support frame

At the first stage of arranging the forge, it is necessary to manufacture its supporting frame. First of all, the place where the forge itself will be located is selected. It is important that the structure itself is located near the wall of the room, not adjacent to other rooms. Otherwise, the master will have problems installing the chimney and fan.

According to safety requirements, the forge should be located 1 meter from the main wall. It is important that the wall itself does not consist of materials that can easily catch fire.

Installation of the support frame involves the use of drawings and diagrams. It is necessary to compare in advance the dimensions of the future forge and the dimensions of the workshop in which it is intended to be installed.

For the manufacture of racks, steel grade 09G2S is used, which contains less than 2.5% alloying elements (chrome, nitrogen). This steel is low-alloy, which is reflected in its strength and welding speed.

The support posts for the frame are welded. After the frame is ready, holes are made in it through which parts of the outer decoration of the forge will later be attached.

Making vaults and hearth hearths

The roof of the furnace, that is, its upper part, must be made of materials that can withstand very high temperatures. It is on the vaults that the entire load will fall. The most widely used materials for vaults are dinas and fireclay.

Dinas is one of the highly refractory materials. It can withstand temperatures of the order of 1790 0 C. Dinas contains a significant proportion of silicon dioxide. Therefore, this material has milky color. Furnaces, which are based on dinas bricks, are particularly durable. For this reason, dinas is considered one of the most expensive materials for forges.

Fireclay is made taking into account the requirements of GOST 390-79. Fireclay that meets the requirements of the specified GOST and ordinary brick are quite similar in appearance. However, the brick wears out quickly and begins to collapse at a temperature of 1000 0 C. High-quality fireclay bricks should have low porosity. Such a brick should have a milky cream color, and its weight should be at least 5 kg. The most commonly used fireclay bricks are the ShA and ShPD brands.

The masonry for the forge must contain the following elements in proportions:

  • crushed dinas or fireclay (40% of the total amount);
  • refractory clay (60% of the total).

The chimney, like the fan, is lined with steel strips along their entire perimeter. The masonry (lining) together with the damper is made using a similar mechanism as the vaults. The masonry is additionally surrounded by sheets with rigid ribs, which allows it to retain heat. The oven itself will not give off too much large number heat to the outside, while increasing the rate of internal heating.

When all the work is done, the master needs to dry the forge. Then you need to check the fan, after which you can begin to test the operation of the forge. If the structure works properly, then you can start forging metal.

Hello humanity, today I will tell you how to make a forge with a temperature of up to 1100 degrees Celsius. In a forge, a forge is used to heat metal before forging, cementing and other heat treatment operations. When working with metal, it is almost always necessary. The forge will be coal, so it will be closer to nature. In addition, it is very reminiscent of the historical forge that our ancestors used. And most importantly, it will be simple, both to manufacture and to use.

We will need the following materials:

  • Fire brick. The most common refractory bricks are red and fireclay. Even though I used red, I recommend taking the second one. Since it can withstand high temperatures, and red can crack and break over time. You only need 12 bricks.
  • Fireclay clay. Any refractory clay will do. But fireclay is the most common. I bought a forty kg bag, but it's too much. Ten is enough. It is ideal to take twenty kg, so that if there is clay, you can cover up cracks, make injection molds, etc.
  • Construction sand. If yours is not new, like mine, it needs to be sifted through a special screen.
  • Iron pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm.



You will also need some tools and consumables (a bucket, gloves, a hacksaw, etc.), I’ll tell you about them later.

Forge chamber

First, let's figure out what the forge will look like. I visually arranged all the bricks as they would appear in the finished furnace.
The blowing will be sideways. Oxygen will be driven into the forge chamber through an iron tube. It needs to be filed at 45 degrees on one side, although I never did this. We insert it into the camera at an angle too. The photographs show how we will lay bricks together with clay.





Let's prepare the clay

I mixed it in a nine-liter bucket. Mix clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Next we add clean water. Mix the clay until next state. You need to roll a small ball, put it on one palm, and start pressing it with the other. Cracks should appear when it is squeezed halfway. In terms of consistency, it should resemble... Well, it doesn’t matter what.
Next, generously lubricate with clay all the joints between the bricks, all the internal and external parts. This way the heat will remain in the chamber for a long time. Lubricate the joints well with clay iron pipe with bricks. The brick that serves as the back wall can be left unattached. This way you can move it aside and work with long blanks. Of the top bricks, I attached only the outermost one with clay. This way the forge can be used both open and closed.
The pipe can also be improved to regulate the air supply. It can be sawed in the middle and threaded on both sides. Now we screw into the part in the furnace a plumbing tee with a tap, something like this:

So, by opening the tap, we can regulate the air supply. But I gave up on that too.

A few words about the air supply itself

Of course, something must force delicious oxygen into this pipe, which will heat the coals in the chamber to hellish temperatures. You can use blacksmith bellows. The kind our ancestors used in their forges. But this is not the most best option, you need at least a couple of bellows to get the required temperature, and it would be nice to have an assistant who will tirelessly press the bellows.
Much more productive to use electric blowers. For example, a turbine for inflating mattresses. I used an old Soviet vacuum cleaner. You can even twist the hose from blowing in to blowing out, but it broke. I had to tape the bag on the side where the air is blown out.

A little about using the forge

I used it for forging and casting. It melts aluminum and other non-ferrous metals in a matter of seconds. We were able to cast some parts using foam molds in sand and clay molds. He melted aluminum cans in a special crucible. Next, the molten metal was cast into sand and plaster molds.


It is well suited for forging knives or some small metal products. We will talk about making knives from files in my next article.



One of the photos shows a heated forging, however, the color rendition is not at all the same. Due to the bright sun, it is impossible to determine the temperature of the workpiece by color. That’s why the forges used to be in twilight. Here is a video of the forge in action.

Lighting the forge

Everything is very simple here. The forge runs on coals, so you just pour coals into inner part and light them like in a barbecue - using a highly flammable liquid. Next, apply air. In a few minutes the forge will heat up to 1000 degrees, and this is not the limit; the heat will also remain in it for a long time.
Blacksmithing can be both an unusual hobby and a highly paid profession. Professional blacksmiths receive very good money for their hard work!

In the old days, blacksmithing was held in high esteem. Not everyone could master it, not everyone had the opportunity to acquire necessary tool and set up a workshop. Nowadays you can make a forge with your own hands without involving serious funds. Even simple design will give you the opportunity to heat the metal to the required temperature and try your hand at forging.

Forge

People with creative inclinations who are engaged in design work are often faced with the desire to use decorative metal elements self made. You can make such things using forging.

Thin sheet metal can be stamped, bent or minted without heating. It will not be possible to process a thick workpiece without this. There is no point in trying to make a tool from carbon steel.

If you equip your blacksmith's workshop with a hearth and a massive anvil, you don't have to pay attention to special attention to the thickness of the workpiece. When hot, it will be able to forge, bend and flatten. The main thing in this process is a properly equipped forge.

Perhaps not everyone can do it with their own hands, but for a true connoisseur of the craft who is familiar with the structure, features and operating principle of the device, it will be possible. As experienced craftsmen assure, a simple forge can be built even from six bricks.

Purpose of the forge

Before forging, the steel blank must be heated to a light orange color. This will approximately correspond to a temperature of 1000-1100° C. In this state, the metal can be subject to deformation by an impact tool.

As the workpiece cools, it becomes less ductile and more difficult to forge. And if you use a heavier tool, the metal becomes brittle and susceptible to cracking. The only option is constant maintenance forging temperature. However, temperatures above 1000°C cannot be achieved in a conventional oven. To do this, you need a fireplace with forced air supply.

Forge, made with your own hands, can be used to heat metal to forging temperature. In addition, it can also be used for other jobs. It is suitable for melting metal and then pouring it into a mold, for hardening tools, for soldering using brass and copper.

Types of designs

First you need to decide what type of fuel the metal will be heated with. Traditionally, forges used charcoal or coal (coke) for these purposes. In addition to solid fuel, you can use natural gas and liquefied gas, as well as petroleum products (gasoline, fuel oil, white spirit, etc.).

Depending on the type of fuel, the design of the working area of ​​the forge will differ. It will also depend on the method and location of the outbreak. If this is a stationary structure, then it makes sense to make the base massive and solid, using brick and a channel for removing combustion products.

For mobile forge would be better suited lightweight, collapsible version hearth. It is convenient because in winter you can work indoors, and in summer, if necessary, the workshop is moved outdoors. fresh air. This design is easy to disassemble and transport to the desired location.

Another feature is an open or closed combustion chamber. If a homemade forge has a dome or a round shape, the metal in it will heat up faster, since heat loss is noticeably reduced. On the other hand, it will be impossible to work with long or massive workpieces in a closed-type fireplace, and this must be immediately taken into account.

You should start by choosing the type of base. For a stationary hearth, a brick is suitable, for a mobile hearth - metal structures. The base should be located at the optimal height for ease of use. A fireplace for solid fuel requires the presence of a working combustion zone. It can be lined with fire bricks, lined or made of steel plate.

Another important element- a grate that holds the coals in the combustion zone and gives access to the air flow, which inflates the heat from below. Injection is usually carried out through a pipeline with a flow regulator. The source of boost is a vacuum cleaner with reverse air supply, a hair dryer, a “snail” with an engine from a car heater. There are drawings blacksmith's forge, where a turbine from a manual siren or bellows is used, as was done in the old days. The hearth may have side walls and a roof with a channel for removing combustion products.

The designs of furnaces operating on liquid or gaseous fuel are distinguished by the absence of a grate. The combustible mixture and air are supplied through an opening in the housing. For these purposes, a section of thick-walled pipe or a used tank from a household compressor, lined with fire-resistant material, is often adapted. The fireplaces are also laid out in the shape of a cube from heat-resistant bricks.

Operating principle

Even a person with no blacksmithing experience can assemble a forge from six bricks with his own hands. The device can operate from supercharging gasoline burner. Two bricks are laid flat on the ground - this will be the bottom. Two more are placed on them edge-on - these are walls. Moreover, the back of the bricks is reduced to limit heat loss. Their location can also to some extent regulate the temperature inside the working area. The last two bricks are placed on top - this will be the vault.

The grates can be made from a 4 mm steel strip. Two pieces of half-inch pipe are placed along the walls. Grate bars are placed on them. Moreover, they need to be wrapped in a “propeller” in the central part so that the air flow is captured by the planes and directed upwards, where the coal is located.

The gasoline burner is ignited and directed into the firebox. It can immediately be buried in the ground and fenced off with a sheet of asbestos from the heat of the working area. To do this, a hole is made and a stream of burning gasoline vapor is directed through it to ignite the coal. The temperature is maintained by the burner adjustment valve.

Solid fuel forge

For one-time or infrequent blacksmithing work, you can set up a hearth simply on the ground by digging a recess required size and posting it fire brick. It is most suitable for heating metal with solid fuel. Another option for table material is a thick (at least 5 mm) steel plate. You will also need to install a grate made of steel strip or cast iron. It can be replaced by steel pipe air supply. Its end is welded. In the combustion zone, the grinder cuts slots through which the escaping air will disperse the heat.

How to make a forge simple and mobile? You can weld a frame from scrap materials and install a steel tabletop on them. The design of the base from a used old one is interesting, convenient and practical. gas stove. A tabletop with a combustion zone is installed on top. The oven serves to house a vacuum cleaner or other source of airflow. At the bottom there is also a compartment for tools and accessories.

Craftsmen consider this type of hearth to be the most economical and effective. Gas is an inexpensive and accessible fuel. The design of the hearth is simpler for it, since there is no need for a grate. Adjusting the gas supply with a tap is convenient, which means achieving the required temperature in work area it will be easier. The design of the forge may consist of a minimum set of elements. It is enough to adapt a suitable base for it.

However, this also has its own characteristics. Gas is an explosive substance, so you need to work even more carefully. Adjusting the supply of the combustible mixture also requires experience and practice. Otherwise, everything is not so difficult. The brick cube is folded according to the dimensions of the planned blanks. Rear wall- deaf. The hole in front is covered with bricks or a door is installed. A place is installed on top for the entrance of the pipe through which the combustible mixture is supplied. Its length differs in different schemes. There are craftsmen who make it up to 1.5 m long, and they say that mixing the combustible mixture works better this way.

Natural or liquefied gas after the gearbox it is fed into this pipe through a nozzle. Air is pumped there. The combustion intensity is regulated by the gas supply and the pressurization speed. When working indoors, it is necessary to install an exhaust hood above the forge. Otherwise, the designs can either become more complicated (lining, thermocouples, forced removal of combustion products, additional dampers) or, conversely, be simplified.

There are no standards for the home craftsman. The main thing is to know the principle of operation, select materials, maintain the technology, obtain the required temperature and at the same time observe safety precautions.

If you are one of those people who melts metal in your hands and you dream of having your own forge, then you need a forge. We invite you to use our example, and you can make a forge for yourself with your own hands, which will help you master the art of blacksmithing.

Carpentry or carpentry is, of course, good. Wood processing is traditional for Rus'. But we want to talk about metal. More precisely, about metal forging. What do you need to start forging? The first is a blacksmith's forge.

You might be surprised, but the forge is the easiest thing to organize a forge.

The task of the forge is to heat a piece of metal to a temperature that will allow it to be crushed without destruction.

The forge is, of course, fire. You can burn gas liquid fuel, fuel oil or crude oil, coal and firewood. Only the firewood produces little heat until it turns into coal. Firewood can only be considered as a raw material for obtaining charcoal, but charcoal is an excellent fuel for a forge. Perhaps the best, but also the most expensive, although also the most accessible. Charcoal for grills and barbecues is sold in any supermarket. So we’ll stick to the coal option.

If we talk about a coal-fired forge, then there are two options: with side blast and with bottom blast. Side blowing is ideal for charcoal, and is also the easiest to implement. The simplest option- a hole in the ground where air is supplied through a pipe. You can also line the forge out of brick and cover it with earth.

With the help of such a forge, novice blacksmiths try their hand. A hose is inserted into the pipe and connected to the blowing hole of the vacuum cleaner.

The disadvantage of this forge is that you have to work while squatting, and this is not very comfortable. However, you can put together a box required height, fill it with earth and make a forge in it. But since we are going this route, it is worth doing something more thorough. There is one more point. A forge with side blast is not very suitable for coal, while a forge with bottom blast through a grate is more versatile in this regard. That is, a forge with bottom blast can work on both charcoal and stone. But the design will be more complicated.

We will need:

  • steel sheet five millimeters thick, about 100x100 cm;
  • sheet steel 2 mm thick;
  • corner 30x30;
  • six fireclay bricks ШБ-8;
  • angle grinder, popularly called “grinder”;
  • cleaning wheel;
  • cutting wheels for cutting steel and stone;
  • welding machine and electrodes;
  • two wing screws (eye nut).

The forge consists of a table with a forge nest. Below, under the furnace nest, there is an ash chamber into which air is supplied. The table is made of steel sheet five millimeters thick. The size of the table is arbitrary, but it is more convenient when you can freely place working pliers, a poker and a scoop on it so that they are at hand. We cut a strip 125 mm wide from a five-millimeter sheet; we will need it later, and from the remaining piece we make a table.

Scheme of a forge with a forge nest

In the middle we cut out a square hole for the future forge nest. You need to decide on the size of the nest. A large nest will require a lot of coal. A small one will not allow heating large workpieces. The depth of the nest to the grate also matters. Without going into details, let's say that a depth of ten centimeters will be optimal, regardless of the size of the nest in plan.

To prevent the metal from burning through, it must be lined (covered) with fireclay bricks. We use ShB-8 brick. Its dimensions are 250x124x65 mm. These dimensions will determine the size of the forge nest - 12.5 cm at the grate, 25 at the top, 10 cm deep. Considering the thickness of the brick, the size of the hole in the table will be 38x38 cm.

From the cut piece we cut out a square with a side of 25 cm. In the center of the square we cut out a square hole with a side of 12 cm. We also need four plates in the shape of an isosceles trapezoid with base lengths of 38 and 25 cm, a height of 12.5 cm. So the previously cut strip came in handy . Now you need to cook it all.

From two millimeter steel we roll up a square pipe with a side of 12 and a length of 20-25 cm. This will be the ash receptacle. In the middle of one of the walls we make a hole for the air duct. We weld a pipe into the hole. We use a piece of ordinary water pipe 40.

The ash receptacle from below is closed with a lid. We do it with thumbscrews.

The table is ready. All that remains is to place it on the base or weld the legs from the corner to it. You can make the base from foam concrete blocks.

Pay attention to the opening. An air duct will pass through it.

Using a grinder with cutting disc We cut out the lining from the brick using the stone. Be sure to use a respirator and safety glasses. And follow safety precautions when working with angle grinders.

You can connect a vacuum cleaner and try to light the forge.

First we lay the wood chips and finely chopped firewood. We set them on fire with a weak blow, and when the wood burns well, add coal. Now you can increase the blowing.

The vacuum cleaner can be connected not directly to the forge air duct, but through a homemade air supply regulator. This device allows you to regulate the amount of air supplied to the forge, that is, reduce or increase the blast.

Typically, a damper is installed to regulate the air supply into the duct. But blocking the flow increases the load on the vacuum cleaner motor. An old vacuum cleaner is usually used, and in order not to overload it, an air supply regulator is built. The air flow is not blocked, but is diverted into another duct. For this purpose, a box with three pipes was made. Two opposite each other - the entrance from the pump and the exit to the furnace. The third pipe, on the top wall, is where excess air is discharged. The third pipe is shifted relative to the first two by the diameter of the holes.

Inside is a plate curved at a right angle, half the length of the box. The plate can be moved from one extreme position to another using a wire rod. As far as the air supply hole into the forge is blocked, the discharge hole will open to the same extent.

The box is closed with a lid with a hole for traction.

We now have a working forge suitable for use under open air. To protect from rain, you need a canopy, which must be non-flammable. And the forge needs an umbrella and a pipe to collect and remove smoke.

We make the umbrella from sheet iron two millimeters thick. Firstly, such an umbrella will last longer, and secondly, thinner iron can be welded manually arc welding more difficult.

For an umbrella to be as effective as possible, the slope of its walls must be at least sixty degrees to the horizon. The umbrella should be positioned above the fireplace so that an imaginary beam directed from the point closest to the edge of the fireplace, inclined outward at an angle of sixty degrees to the plane of the table, falls inside the umbrella. This means that the higher the umbrella is above the fireplace, the larger it should be. On the other hand, the lower the umbrella is above the table, the more inconvenient it is to work. Here you need to proceed from the available material and your anthropometric data.

The umbrella is supported by angle steel posts. We place a pipe on top of the umbrella, which we also weld from a two-piece steel sheet. The pipe must be covered with a spark arrestor, which is made from metal mesh.

If you direct the air discharged from the throttle through the air duct (it will go water pipe 1 inch) at the beginning of the chimney, you get an ejector that increases the efficiency of flue gas removal.

That's all. Your forge is ready. Forge to your health, forge like us, forge better than us!