It is quite difficult to divide a large room into comfortable zones without using expensive materials and without resorting to the help of specialists. But you can make partitions from plasterboard, which are easy to build, the material is inexpensive, and you can start handling it as a complete beginner. Partitions will help create distinct zones in a house or apartment; they can be created if you want to separate space, but at the same time spend little time and money on it.
What is this article about?
Why drywall
Drywall has many applications, but it is most often used to create partitions, so we will tell you about the process of constructing plasterboard partitions, which can be made of any shape and size, it all depends on your imagination. Also, if you need to create a partition in which you can install a door and create sound insulation and insulation, then plasterboard is also perfect for this. It is very easy to use, you just need to purchase profiles for constructing the frame, some tools, and you can start creating the partition.
Interior partitions made of plasterboard are erected in the place where you need to divide the room into zones. Perhaps it will be a study, a studio, a playroom for children, or just a beautiful partition that can highlight the interior design and highlight the room. original decor. If you are interested in plasterboard products and want to build some structures in your home, we recommend reading articles about these products on our website.
If you have started a renovation and are planning to completely decorate the room, then using drywall will be the best option in order to save your budget as much as possible without compromising the quality of the repair. By the way, you can arrange lighting and insulation in the partitions, if, of course, you need it. We just want to point out that drywall is a very versatile material that can be used in the most various fields and areas of construction and repair robots.
It has no restrictions on its use, so start working with it to create necessary design Almost anyone can do it with their own hands, the main thing is to follow the instructions below and, if everything is done correctly, you will get a high-quality and beautiful partition.
Surface marking
You need to decide on the shape of the partition, for this you can look interesting ideas on the Internet, if something interests you, you can sketch out a similar form on paper, add your decisions and preferences, and then start making markings. Also, think and decide whether you need to insulate the partition, because it allows it, but this is an additional expense. If insulation is needed, for example, in a private house, it will be very useful, since it is much more difficult to maintain heat in it than in an apartment, then create a frame and, in general, the entire structure wider so that insulation can be placed in it.
If your work is related to sounds, perhaps you are a musician or a sound engineer, then it is better to use soundproof plasterboard to create a partition, which can effectively muffle most sounds that will no longer disturb both you and your neighbors. Also, it is possible to install spot lighting in the partition, which will create a unique atmosphere at night. In addition, such lighting will help you easily navigate around the apartment without turning on the main light, thanks to which you can save a little on electricity.
The selected form must be transferred to the wall and floor, that is, its projection must be made onto the surface on which it will be installed. The very first thing that needs to be applied is the contours of the product, which will indicate the installation location of the guide profile, which will significantly facilitate the entire further work. The profile that will be located inside must be marked on the wall in the same way. Be careful here, the location of the guide profile is marked both on the wall and on the floor and ceiling, since it will be directly attached to them. The rack profile is attached to the guide, and not to the surfaces, so its location can only be marked on the wall to make it easier during assembly.
If you are planning to create interior partitions from plasterboard using insulation, then remember that you will need to make much more frame to make room for the insulation itself. This means that when marking, it will be necessary to take into account the location of the insulation. Also, we note that it will be difficult to illuminate a thin partition, so light partitions serve more of a decorative role. Already in wider plasterboard partitions you can create niches, lighting, and insulation, so decide what you need more.
Components calculator
- Partition with 1 layer of gypsum board
- Partition with 2 layers of gypsum board
*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room
Assembling the frame for the partition
To work you will need
- A guide profile (attached to the base), from which the base will be built, onto which the rest of the profile will be attached;
- Rack profile. The main part of the structure will consist of it; it creates bridges between the rails of the guide profile;
- Metal scissors, screwdriver, drill, cutter (optional);
- Profile for bends (it is advisable to have one, but you can use an ordinary profile, just specially cut). It can be easily bent, making it possible to create complex sections of large structures from it.
The guide profile slats must be installed where you made the markings. Use dowels and a drill to attach it to the base. If it is wooden, then you can use screws and a screwdriver. First install the slats on the ceiling, then, using a plumb line, secure them to the floor. The plumb line must be used to check the accuracy, because you may have made some errors in the distance at the marking stage, so always check the accuracy. Along with a plumb line, it is better to use laser level, which can draw perfectly straight lines in any direction.
The most important thing you need to remember when creating a frame. If you are creating a thin and light standard partition that will simply perform decorative functions, then make one row of the guide profile. If there is a partition, inside of which there will be insulation, a niche, lighting, and a layer of sound insulation, then it is necessary to create a second row of a guide profile.
If the installation of the partition takes place in such a way that the room is completely divided into two parts, that is, all 4 walls will be used (it happens that the partitions do not touch one wall or are small in height and do not reach the ceiling), then the guide profile will have to be on each of 4 surfaces. After installing the guide profile, you can create jumpers from the rack profile. The frame will begin to resemble a square honeycomb, plasterboard sheets will be installed on them and, if necessary, the insulation will be located in these honeycombs from the profile.
The profile slats can be fastened together with self-tapping screws, but you can purchase a special device that will make the work easier - a cutter. He compresses the profile, thereby holding it together. Our remark is that the rack profile should always be located perpendicular to the guide (except for additional reinforcement when large sizes), if this requirement is not met, then you are doing something wrong, so watch the direction of the profiles.
In the same way, a doorway is created from profiles. If niches are planned in the partition, then the frame will need to be strengthened, but if it is a simple and light partition, then you can do without strengthening, the main thing is that the frame does not wobble. Connect the guide profile to each other with a rack, you can further strengthen the entire structure, but this must be done only if additional load is planned on the product (except for plasterboard sheets).
In those places where the project will bend, it is also necessary to install a profile. To do this, you can use either a special factory one or a regular one, the cuts on which are made independently. The only advantage of the factory profile is that it does not need to be cut, but can be immediately bent to give the desired shape. If you decide to make cuts on the profile yourself, then take metal scissors and cut only 2 sides without touching the 3rd.
Sheathing the partition frame with plasterboard sheets
Use drywall based on the type of room (fire-resistant or moisture-resistant, you can also use soundproofing). The most commonly used is standard (gray) drywall. First, the sheathing should be done with solid pieces of drywall, and only then, when it is impossible to use whole ones, you need to use smaller pieces. Try to create as few seams as possible on the product.
Fastening the drywall to the frame is done with the same screwdriver and self-tapping screws, but you don’t need to recess them too much into the sheet (the limit is 2 mm). But you also don’t need to screw them in so that the caps stick out a little. The best option can be found by simply running a spatula over the sheet; if it doesn’t catch anything, then everything is done correctly.
If redevelopment is not planned in the near future, then the surface will still need to be puttied. But that's only when you're done with the sheathing. The most difficult part of the cladding is creating bends. Or rather, it is not difficult, it just requires some effort. The easiest way is to walk over the sheet with a spiked roller, slightly wet it, wait for the plaster to soften, and secure the sheet to the frame.
This completes the creation of the plasterboard partition; all that remains is to apply plaster to the surface of the product to give the structure a flawless appearance. Then you can add different decorative elements on the partition, wallpapering or applying paint.
Drywall is often the only available material, with which you can remodel the premises. And it’s often possible to give walls a divine look only with the help of gypsum boards. The good thing about a plasterboard wall is that you can do it yourself, without hiring a team of professionals for such work. A maximum of one assistant may be needed.
You can save a lot if you purchase self-tapping screws 25 mm long rather than 35 mm. According to the rules, the self-tapping screw after screwing should look out from reverse side by 1 cm, so many try to take 35 mm ones with a reserve, but this is not always justified. If the sheet thickness is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm, by which the screw should protrude, we get 22.5 mm. The thickness of the profile is insignificant, so it can be ignored in the calculations.
The minimum thickness of a plasterboard wall is 4 centimeters. It is necessary to add the width of the guides (27 mm) to the thickness of the drywall (12.5 mm). If we are talking about a partition in a room, then you need to add another thickness of plasterboard, with which the wall is sheathed on both sides. The result will be 52 mm. When creating a frame near the wall, it is customary to retreat from it about 5 cm, so that it is convenient to work with the profiles. Otherwise, it will be difficult to even drill holes.
We bring to your attention a master class on making plasterboard partitions. In this article you will find all the information a novice installer needs. We will also outline the technological and operational features of the gypsum board walls.
Partitions made from plasterboard panels assembled on metal frame, have long been considered classics of the genre. Such designs have been successfully used abroad for several decades. They appeared here in the nineties and with their functionality literally charmed developers and professional builders. At first it was difficult to find everything necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of installing frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often native Russian ingenuity). Now we have at our disposal completely complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers. Never before has organizing interior space been so simple. These are truly universal systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.
Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of plasterboard walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not been justified. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including those where it is humid, fire resistance and penetration protection are needed.
Ten reasons to choose plasterboard partitions
Let's look at the main advantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:
- Dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there is no escape from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full plaster or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
- Weight. Again no competitors. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for single-layer lining, the weight per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition on top of wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak slabs of Khrushchev-era buildings, etc.
- Load-bearing capacity. It has never happened before that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one fastening point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard) you can safely load up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The numbers are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer cladding of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. We'll tell you how to do this below.
- Soundproofing. It is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials between the load-bearing profiles. For an ordinary living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all options for partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by using damper pads under the guide profiles. A correctly assembled plasterboard partition does not “bounce” when the profiles are closed interior door They don't "rumble". If you need to create a super-protected space, you can use multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, and assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). You can't achieve the same results with an array.
- Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of aqua panels on cement based. If there are really unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then “green” HA can be used throughout the apartment, and to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped in polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, since they are galvanized.
- Presence of cavities. It is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications inside frame partitions. This is an excellent solution for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to install sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electricity. For ease of installation of routes in metal racks There is a special perforation; additional windows can be cut with a grinder. The partition can easily accommodate mortise electrical boxes and panels, plumbing boxes, etc.
- Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. Possible height is up to 9.5 meters, length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). You can attach the partition to suspended ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
- Intrusion protection. Current issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices, etc. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multilayer cladding and screwing sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of cladding).
- Low cost. With traditional single-layer cladding, a plasterboard wall is about half the price of a brick wall (with plastering) and about 15-20% cheaper than tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation prices.
- Easy to install. Anyone can master the technology; it’s much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up the frame thread by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is planned out by the developers from start to finish, in fact, frame gypsum plasterboard partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are very rare. And yet, the only power tools you will need are a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a foreman and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of about 15-20 m2 in an eight-hour shift.
Technology for constructing plasterboard partitions
It is best to start installation after installing the subfloor (good planes make it easier to mark the contours) - although technologically, wet and dry screeds can be done after the partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be attached to ceilings and walls covered with gypsum plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can build the frame of the partition and carry out the sheathing, but the markings have to be done by two people, since a tapping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant level.
Marking
To transfer the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings to reality, as a rule, they start from some load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply put two points at the required distance and connect them; it is a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked using a large square, or by placing a sheet of drywall in place.
However, for large structures the errors from hand tools can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). Good way to obtain an exact right angle - draw an Egyptian triangle, in which the mutually perpendicular sides are multiples of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is 5.
We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions using a tapping cord or a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with the tracer, be very careful that the cord does not catch on anything, and be sure to thoroughly sweep the floor.
Now, using a plumb line, we transfer our markings to the ceiling. For each line you need to have two marks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the string of the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of an assistant, smoothly moves it until the point aligns with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor must carefully stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything comes together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.
It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.
At this stage, we suggest immediately marking the points on the floor indicating the edges of the doorway, if there is one. The main thing is not to forget to leave a 20-30 mm margin, so that later an installation gap of 10-15 mm on each side will form near the door block.
We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to use a tracer to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. This way we will have vertical markings to control the installation of the wall profile.
Frame assembly
The width and length of the profiles used are selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the optimal width will be a frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles, which, with a single-layer lining, form a partition 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.
Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be covered with damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions from enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which back side applied with two threads in special grooves.
We lay the prepared sections of the PN along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out using “quick-installation” dowels 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a hammer drill. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases use self-tapping screws with a press washer.
When fixing, in addition to checking along the line, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of the doorway, the profiles are secured with two dowels; for reliability, you can install even more fasteners.
Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first, so as not to fall asleep or trample the marking line.
The end vertical profiles are inserted inside the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they install PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other in the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the outermost PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rules, they are fixed.
Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the installation points of the racks. The pitch of PS (UW) profiles must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third is for ordinary partitions in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.
The marks at which the substations are installed in the design position are placed using a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend correlating the first marks on the ceiling and floor with each other using a plumb line, and then measuring the rest from them, so that all the racks will be strictly vertical.
We prepare PS profiles piece by piece according to length and insert them into the guides. The length of the racks should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If there are lines running inside the partition engineering communications, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.
Attention! The shelves of all PSs must be oriented in the same direction, with the only exception being one rack that forms the doorway.
Rack profiles are fixed to the PN shelves using cutting pliers or LN 9 mm self-tapping screws with a drilling end. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.
The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If installed here door block, then the racks need strengthening. To do this, two PS profiles are collected in rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to its full height on one side with a cross-section of 40 mm (it will fit freely into the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with LN screws on the cladding side and TN 25 screws on the opening side ( wooden beam attracted to metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize the opening.
Between the racks there should be required height install a jumper (be sure to take into account what level the finished floor will rise to, and allow a gap of 2-2.5 cm above the door). The jumper is made from a piece of PN, which is cut in the form of a double-sided “stick”. Also, the short parts of the “stick” can be bent down. We screw this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four to five self-tapping screws on each side.
Short PS profiles are inserted between the lintel and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch to ensure joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the desired direction.
Covering the subsystem with sheets
Cladding panels with long edges with a thinned edge must necessarily be joined in the middle of the rack profiles. The sheets are installed in the direction where the shelves of the PS profiles are facing, then the shelves will not bend under the influence of the screws. If the height of the sheets is not enough to cover the entire partition, then they must be placed with the joints staggered in height.
The drywall is placed in the design position and screwed with TN metal screws at intervals of no more than 250 mm. You should retreat 15 mm from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, the screws should be spaced 10-20 mm apart. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the countersunk head does not break through the top cardboard layer.
Attention! A gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained between the sheet and the enclosing structures, so temporary pads of suitable thickness are used in the floor area.
To ensure that the short joints of the sheets are also on the metal, measured sections of CD or PN/PS profiles are screwed to them between the posts. When screwing in the screws of the additional short sheet, you should not put too much pressure on the jumper, so as not to tear it away from the panel on which it is already fixed.
If the stitching is carried out in several layers, then vertical joints sheets of different tiers must be produced on different racks.
Very important point- this is the joining of drywall at the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be placed on a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).
When the partition has been lined on one side, the necessary communications can be made and embedded elements can be inserted. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as anchors for heavy objects; OSB and dry timber may also be suitable. Plywood sheets suitable size through the body of the drywall (between the studs) in specified places they are screwed with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can be rested on the floor.
At this stage, a soundproofing layer is laid into the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which they begin to sew the frame on the other side. Sheets that overlap the opening are cut off using a saw and knife, and the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.
Attention! The joints of the sheets with which different sides of the partition are sheathed should not fall on the same supporting rack.
Arrangement of corners and junctions
The joining of gypsum board partitions (T-shaped and corner) should be done only through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to screw the mating frame with metal self-tapping screws (35 mm long) to the embedded post of the adjacent wall, therefore in the right places additional PS should be provided.
A complex knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme PS profiles of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close to each other as possible, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The strip width must be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied over the entire height of the seam.
Round plasterboard partition
To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut into sectors 5-10 cm wide with a grinder. Along the outlined radius, the PN is secured with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel/screw must be used for each sector.
Curved posts are inserted at intervals of no more than 300 mm and fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.
Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:
- Two layers arched plasterboard 6 mm thick are located horizontally. The combination of two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
- A 12.5 mm gypsum board wall panel is pricked with a needle roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum permissible radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is done with a roller from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
- A 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper must not be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched out with putty.
As you can see, the technology for making plasterboard partitions is quite simple. If you carry out all operations carefully and follow the rules we have outlined, you can assemble walls of any complexity, because this is just a construction set.
Video on the topic
It happens that you need to make zoning in a large area, sometimes it is necessary to separate part spacious room under an office or a children's room, in general, situations are different, but there is only one solution - installing partitions from plasterboard. It is not at all necessary to make a wall that completely cuts off the space to be separated; sometimes a small partition, a hint of a partition, is enough, especially since this option will be much cheaper.
Why is installing plasterboard partitions better than walls made of other materials?
The main advantage of this material over others used in the construction of walls is the price. If you opt for brick, you will have to buy quite large number building blocks, cement and sand (cheap materials in volume also affect costs), primer, finishing materials. To ensure that the technology for installing plasterboard partitions does not have any flaws, a few sheets of this material and a certain number of metal profiles, as well as a couple of kilograms of screws, are enough. We will talk about this in more detail below.
A number of other advantages can be listed at once, since all these advantages relate directly to working with the material. Firstly, one person can do the installation, and even without haste, the partitions will be assembled in short terms. Secondly, the process of assembling the frame in particular and installing plasterboard partitions in general is not too labor-intensive and does not involve a large number of construction waste(and generally with dirt). And thirdly, this material opens up limitless possibilities for your creativity, in the sense that the structures can be customized, resulting in a smooth wall that can be used with almost any finish.
The undoubted advantage of lightweight frame partitions is the ability to change their configuration literally on the go. That is, if additional sockets or switches are needed, it is easy to dismantle part of the structure, install additional wiring and install the elements necessary to supply the apartment with electricity. Two advantages immediately follow from this: the convenience of laying various communications inside the partitions and the ease of their dismantling if necessary.
How to make an estimate for the installation of plasterboard partitions?
To ensure that during the process of assembling the frame it does not become clear that there is not enough materials, or that subsequently there is no surplus left, which would be enough for another structure, the consumption of profiles and drywall should be calculated. Also, before making a frame for the partition, you need to calculate the number related materials. First, we measure the room and determine what kind of partition it will be. If it is continuous, across the entire room, then we simply take the necessary measurements without taking into account the doorway and estimate the number of CW and UW profiles, based on the fact that they are installed in increments of 60 centimeters, and their lengths are 2.75, 3, 4, 4.5 and 6 meters. Measuring the wall is even easier.
The cost of installing frame plasterboard partitions directly depends on their area. As a rule, sheet sizes are 1.2x2.5 or 1.2x3 meters. It is logical that if the ceiling height is 2.5 meters, the first option is preferable, and if it is higher, then the second, in order to eliminate horizontal seams, which are inevitable in high-ceiling apartments. The sheet area is either 3 or 3.6 square meters. Now all that remains is to divide the previously recorded area of the partition by the square footage of a unit of drywall and get the number of sheets, which should be multiplied by two, since the sheathing will be double-sided. And add a reserve 10%.
Regarding additional materials, then you will need mounting brackets, total number which can be calculated based on the fact that they are mounted on the walls with an interval of about 50 centimeters. You can attach profiles directly to walls, ceilings and floors. Installation of the profile around the perimeter of the future frame is carried out with self-tapping screws, with or without dowels, every 30-50 centimeters, and for fastening drywall, about 60 screws per sheet are required. It is better to take damper tape or serpyanka with a reserve. Quantity mineral wool for sound insulation it corresponds to the area of a partition made in one layer, and for a multi-layer construction, 2 times more wool will be needed.
Serpyanka or damper tape It is advisable to lay it at the junction of a metal profile or wooden beam with sheets of plasterboard, this will significantly increase the sound insulation of the structure.
Step-by-step installation of interior plasterboard partitions
So, the materials have been calculated and purchased, profiles, plasterboard sheets, damper tape, screws and dowels, corrugated pipes, as well as soundproofing material are available.
However, before doing frame partition, it is necessary to prepare and necessary tools. We will need an electric drill with a hammer drill function, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a construction knife, metal scissors, a plumb line, a level, a measuring tape, a tapping thread, and a pencil.
Installation of plasterboard partitions - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Marking the room
Depending on the size of the area, you may need more than one partition.
Let’s consider just this option, and, for simplicity, a single-layer one. First, we measure from the wall parallel to which the structure will be installed, required distance, and make notes.
We transfer it to the wall and ceiling using a plumb line, which we hold exactly above the line, placing pencil dots at small intervals until the markings for the guides cover the room with a vertical belt.
Step 2: Installing the Guides
So, the lines cover the vertical perimeter of the room everywhere where the partitions should go, installing guides for which we will now proceed. To begin with, we glue damper tape onto the profiles; it will serve as vibration insulation for structural parts fixed to the floor, walls and ceiling.
We lay the profile exactly along the line, down with the tape, drill a hole if, then use a screw with a dowel, and fix it on wooden surfaces with self-tapping screws.
We mark doorways in advance and do not install profiles in their place.
Step 3: Frame installation
Depending on the length of the purchased profiles, we cut them off or extend them, focusing on the height of the ceiling, and insert the finished elements into the guides at equal sixty-centimeter intervals.
It is not necessary to fasten them immediately; only profiles require fixing them with screws to the guides doorways, and you need to especially carefully check their verticality.
Step 4: Forming Openings
For the lintels, we cut off pieces of profiles, the length of which should be 6 centimeters greater than the width of the openings. Along the edges, we cut out 3 centimeters in the shelves of the bases of the resulting parts, leaving the sidewalls, after which we fix them clearly horizontally with screws at a height of 207 centimeters.
As an additional fastener, we use a vertical piece of profile (cut at the edges in the same way), connecting the lintel to the upper rail.
For greater strength of the doors, we install additional vertical profiles at a distance of ten centimeters from the “jambs”.
Step 5: Preparing the Drywall
Let's start installing drywall. If the sheets are slightly larger than the height of the room, cut them to the required size using a construction knife. To do this, make a deep cut, after which we carefully bend it along it until the fragment to be separated breaks off, then along the fold of the second cardboard side we finally cut off the excess piece. You can use a saw, but there will be more dust. If the sheets match the height of the ceiling, we immediately begin installation.
Step 6: Installation of the first side of the partition
When fixing the sheets, keep the step between the screws to no more than 20 centimeters.
If, after marking, it turns out that the partition will need several whole sheets and one halved one, and the drywall is planned to be laid in two layers, we start the first layer with half, finish it, and start the second layer with a whole sheet.
It may turn out that the sheets are shorter than the height of the room, then you will have to supplement them with small fragments.
In this case, frame interior room partitions made of plasterboard can be assembled with your own hands according to a simple scheme. When laying the coating in one layer, we move each sheet in relation to the previous one up or down so that the horizontal seams are either at the floor or at the ceiling.
For a two-layer coating, we lay the bottom sheets so that the horizontal seams run along the floor, and install the top sheets with additional fragments laid along the ceiling.
Step 7: Difficult areas of the structure
Fixing the drywall to doorway, we go around the frame and make an incision on the back side of the sheet construction knife inside the opening, along the profile itself, then take a saw and cut out the entire rectangle of the door. By extending the sheets with additional strips, it is not enough to attach the latter only to the frame, so we put profile waste on the seams from the inside and fasten them from the outside with screws.
If the structure is mounted in the attic, you will definitely be faced with the need to give the drywall the appropriate shape.
We make all measurements of the bevels using a plumb line and a tape measure directly on the frame, after which we make the corresponding marks on the sheet and cut it with a construction knife, as mentioned above.
The filler will hold perfectly if one edge is inserted into the profile and the other is rested against the base of the adjacent frame post.
Step 9: Installation of the second side of the partition
Before the installation of interior plasterboard partitions is completed, namely, the installation of sheets on the other side of the frame, it is necessary to outline in advance where the sockets and switches for lighting fixtures will be located. For them and also for the lungs wall lamps You should immediately, using a special crown-shaped drill attachment, cut holes and bring the wires out into them. Only after this we fix the drywall in the same way as we did before.
Quite often, new apartments have rooms that are too large, which would be best divided into two smaller rooms. Partitions made of gypsum board help cope with this task. The hl device allows you to make an excellent partition that does not allow noise to pass through and retains heat in both newly formed rooms. Installing gypsum partitions is not a difficult task, so quite often you make a plasterboard partition yourself. You will learn how to make a partition from plasterboard in this article. Also, you can learn about the advantages of making a plasterboard partition with your own hands, and get acquainted with the intricacies that the installation of plasterboard partitions includes with step-by-step instructions.
What is this article about?
Benefits of drywall
Before you start creating a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to answer one important question. Why is it best to use gypsum board partitions to divide a room? Why are the other options worse? The fact is that plasterboard sheets have a number of advantages over other materials.
- Installation of plasterboard partitions is very easy, since this material is extremely easy to process.
- The material itself is quite light, which makes it easier to install plasterboard partitions.
- Installation of plasterboard partitions will require minimum costs time.
- Due to the low cost of the material, installing plasterboard partitions is relatively inexpensive. So you can make a plasterboard partition with minimal financial costs.
- If you are wondering how to make a plasterboard partition as similar as possible to the rest of the walls in the house, then don’t worry. Plasterboard sheets are practically no different from main walls.
- The construction of partitions made of gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board allows all necessary communications to be laid directly through the frame.
- A variety of niches and designs go well with such artificial walls, therefore, the design of gypsum board partitions can be called quite flexible.
- The installation of a plasterboard partition creates much more reliable sound insulation than a conventional wall.
- Installing gypsum board partitions is a dust-free process. Of course, cutting plasterboard sheets or gypsum fiber analogues will create a lot of debris, but the installation itself does not spread dirt around the room.
To build a partition with your own hands from plasterboard, first you need to assemble a frame from metal profiles. The installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard also allows the construction wooden frame, but this, roughly speaking, is already the last century. Therefore, it is better to install a metal assembly.
Types of profiles for creating a frame
To build the frame we need, simple ceiling profiles are not suitable, since the installation of gypsum board partitions requires more durable fastening. For such structures, special guide profiles are used, which are called PN or UW. They happen different sizes, but they all have the same length - three meters. They are used in exactly the same way as ceiling guides.
Rack profiles for partitions are called PS. It is important that the rack profiles have exactly the same width as the guides, otherwise it will not be possible to install the frame. It makes no sense to even try to install such profiles together in an apartment. Unlike guides, rack profiles have different lengths - from three to four meters. Other sizes are available for cases with high ceilings.
It is advisable to choose profiles that differ in sufficient width, but not if you are going to build a two-layer sheathing. Think about this before attaching the frame.
Tools and materials
In order to make a partition you will need the following.
- Guide metal profiles
- Rack metal profiles
- Tape to strengthen the fastening
- Dowel nails to secure the gypsum structure
- Cord release device
- 2 meter laser or bubble level
- Plasterboard sheets twelve and a half millimeters thick
- Serpyanka
- Hammer
- Roulette
- Stationery knife
- Screwdriver
- Hammer
- Self-tapping screws for metal
- Self-tapping screws with perss washer
- Acrylic primer
- Putty
- Metal scissors
- Spatulas
To calculate material consumption, you can use our calculator:
- Partition in 1 layer of gypsum board
- Partition with 2 layers of gypsum plasterboard
*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room
Frame installation
Before you begin installing the frame, you need to draw up its diagram yourself in order to have a clear idea of what the structure of gypsum board partitions should be like. This is done quite easily, you just need to draw up a technical map of the frame. Technological map must contain all design parameters. Internal technology The drawing up of the drawing may be different for everyone, but all important components must be present so that the structure of the gypsum board partitions is not damaged.
Next, you should mark the walls so that you can clearly see what needs to be installed where. At this stage, a laser level will help us a lot, which will allow us to draw a fairly even drawing on the walls and floor so that we can use it as a guide during repairs. Along the location of the future partition, draw identical lines on the floor, ceiling and walls, which should be in the same plane. Once you have done this, attach metal profiles along the lines that form the base of the frame. Secure them to the wall using self-tapping screws. It is better to use a screwdriver or hammer drill for this operation.
It is important to remember that the pitch between fasteners should be approximately thirty to forty centimeters. It is these profiles that you need to pay attention to in a special wall. Especially on their fastening, since these profiles form, as it were, the foundation of the entire frame, which means they serve as support for all structures and take on the bulk of the load from the weight of the partition.
Next you need to install the vertical posts. With their location there is one important nuance. The distance between them directly depends on the width plasterboard leaf. The fact is that one plasterboard sheet should be located on three racks metal profiles. Two rack profiles are located on the sides plasterboard sheet, and the third - exactly in the middle. It is very important that two sheets located next to each other rest with their edges on the same rack profile of the frame. Based on this, you need to determine the distance between them.
The installation of rack profiles can begin from any wall on which a profile that serves as the base of the frame is installed with self-tapping screws. From it you need to count sixty centimeters, half the width plasterboard leaf. These are the places where the rack profiles need to be attached to the ceiling and floor main profile.
Creating a Doorway
Any partition needs a doorway. You won't completely block off part of the room from yourself, will you? Doorway profiles experience the most intense load, so it is important to pay attention to them special attention. It is necessary to install the profiles with the shelf towards the opening. To give maximum strength and rigidity, you need to insert a wooden beam and secure it from the inside with self-tapping screws. The size of the beam, in this case, must fully correspond to the size of the profile, and fastenings with self-tapping screws are carried out along the side shelves.
The doorway is formed by one crossbar, which by its size determines the height of the future door. To do this, an opening in the shape of the letter P is formed from the profiles. It must be installed and secured with the feet up. The size of the horizontal post in this design determines the width of the doorway, and therefore the width of the door.
If you want to make an arch in the doorway, then a U-shape will not work. Approximately the same design is made, but with the appropriate configuration. You will have to bend the horizontal post. To do this you need to use metal scissors. With their help, we make cuts on the profile along the entire length. After this, it will bend easily without losing its strength.
Windows and shelves in the partition
One of the possible non-standard solutions may be installing windows in the partition. This is easy to do. The same principle is used as in the case of a doorway. You just need to install horizontal profiles between the racks according to the size of the window opening. Most easy way The best way to implement this solution is to install transverse profiles between adjacent racks, but in this case you are very limited in the size of the window. Standard width will be sixty centimeters. If you want to install a narrower window, you will have to install vertical ones between two horizontal profiles to reduce the width of the opening. To do this, cut off pieces of profiles the right size and install them between the cross-sections. This method will allow you to install as many windows of the desired size as you want, thanks to which you have the opportunity to create a unique design based on small windows.
Installing shelves has some technical difficulties, which forces many to abandon this idea. Shelves are either built-in or hanging. Hanging shelves are much easier to install. They are installed in the same way as on an ordinary wall, but with built-in shelves everything will be much more complicated. To install them, it is necessary to change the structure of the frame. Bottom part the partitions will have to be expanded, and the middle part will also need to be expanded horizontally. If you do not have sufficient funds and time, then you should not undertake such changes in the design.
Sheathing plasterboard sheets
The plating process is fairly standard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame on both sides with self-tapping screws. If this is necessary, then two layers of plasterboard sheathing are installed. In this case, the partition will provide additional benefits in the form of strength, sound insulation and thermal insulation.
Plasterboard sheets will have to be cut, and if you did not make any windows or built-in shelves, then the space will need to be left only for the door. Otherwise, you will need to trim the trim so as not to block the window opening. This is not a complicated procedure, but it has one caveat. A lot of drywall will go to waste, since the remnants of the cut sheets are unlikely to be put to good use.
That's it for installation interior partition from plasterboard sheets ends. All that remains is to putty the partition and get started design design. Here you can give free rein to your imagination or find the style you like among the examples below.
Some of the above interiors will require not only finishing, but also changes in the structure and design of the partition.