Milling is the cutting process of metals and non-metallic materials, in which the cutting tool - the milling cutter - has a rotational movement, and the workpiece being processed has a translational movement.
It is used for processing planes, curved surfaces of parts, threaded surfaces, teeth of gear and worm wheels, etc.
It is carried out on milling machines.
This definition is given by the Polytechnic Dictionary (Moscow, Soviet Encyclopedia, 1989). It clearly requires addition, because the possibility of milling with hand-held power tools is not mentioned at all. This is what our article is dedicated to.
Let's start with the fact that there are different types of manual milling cutters: edge milling, rod, rodless and simply specialized, for example, for tapping door locks or repair window frames. Let us dwell in detail on the most universal and, as a result, the most popular - rod ones.
Such a tool consists of two parts: the upper part, which includes the motor, handles, collet clamp, vertical position clamps, and the lower part - with rods, support sole and turret stop. Machines of this type are distinguished by the fact that they allow immersion into the material being processed to the required (within the limits of capabilities) depth.
Using examples of specific operations, we will consider important design features modern devices of this type.
Getting ready for work
Let's start with the basics - preparing for work. Depending on the material and task, a cutter is selected. For soft wood, plywood, MDF and aluminum, use an attachment with knives made of high speed steel(HSS), more expensive, precise and resistant, with carbide blades (HM) is also not prohibited.
In other cases - chipboard, wood hard rocks, composite compositions such as artificial marble and the like - the use of NM is mandatory. As already mentioned, one of important features carbide blades - precision: they leave a cleaner surface.
Depending on the diameter of the cutter and the material, the rotation speed is set. Since the adjustment wheel is usually marked in conventional units, you will have to use instructions that indicate when to set what. Generally speaking, setting the speed is a very responsible procedure.
Firstly, large-diameter equipment may not withstand too high a speed, and secondly, it is important to choose the right mode. If the frequency is too high, there is a risk of “burning” the workpiece; if the frequency is too low, productivity drops and the quality of processing deteriorates.
Having decided on the speed and type of cutter, install the equipment. The risks on the shank will help you do this correctly - you need to focus on them. If you need to deviate from a prescription (or there simply isn’t one), use simple rule- fix 2/3-3/4 of the total length of the shank.
When buying “consumables”, it is important to remember that the clamp diameters are different. Typically, collets are available for 6, 8 or 12 mm shanks. Not finding the equipment the right size, there is no need to be sad - just change the collet. It is an insert located inside the hollow drive shaft and secured with a nut.
So, it's time to clamp the cutter. This is done with an open-end wrench, having previously secured the shaft. Simpler models will need a second key, mid-level tools have a locking button, but the most convenient latch is also equipped with a “ratchet” - in this case you won’t even have to grab it.
The cutter is clamped into the collet using an open-end wrench and a shaft locking mechanism. If the latter is not provided, you will need a second key. In this case, the installation is extremely simplified - the stopper is equipped with a switchable (unscrewing/wrapping) “ratchet”. The cutter is clamped, guided by the markings on it or based on the general rule (2/3-3/4 of the length of the shank).
The “head” of the tool is lowered until the cutter stops against the surface, after which it is convenient to fix it. Next, based on the reach of the cutting equipment and the desired depth of processing, select the lowest of the suitable “legs” of the turret stop. This allows you to pass workpieces in several stages without repeating precise adjustments.
Often the position of each “leg” can be adjusted within small limits. The support rod is lowered onto the selected “stand”, having first released its clamp. Without fixing it, but only pressing it with a finger, they move the movable pointer along it, ensuring that it coincides with the zero of the measuring ruler.
The rod is raised until the pointer coincides with the required division of the measuring scale and clamped with a clamp.
If the operation requires precision, a good router allows you to adjust the set depth value. It is changed without loosening (so as not to knock down) the fixation of the support rod, but by rotating the adjustment wheel. This can be done in advance, having achieved an exact match between the marks of the pointer and the scale, or after a trial pass.
When the “head” is lowered, the cutter will enter the workpiece to the depth set on the calibrated scale.
Milling depth
The next setup step is setting the immersion depth. It is set by a vertical stop, which can have several stages of adjustment. The most popular is the position of the stop itself. Having rested it on the lowest of the legs of the “revolver” (if possible), loosen the clamps of the stop (usually a wing clamp is implemented) and the “head” itself and lower it until the cutter touches the surface.
Note that it is not at all necessary to use a workpiece; it is better to perform this operation on the plane of the workbench, without the risk of damaging the part.
Now you need to fix the movable stop or simply hold it with one hand, and with the other set the movable pointer (it “moves” up and down) opposite the zero division of the measuring scale, thereby calibrating the ruler. That's it, she's ready to go.
By moving the stop and following the pointer, adjust the depth and tighten the screw of the movable stop. If the router is “simple”, then the adjustment is complete. Otherwise, the immersion depth is adjusted more accurately. The position of the movable (already fixed) stop is changed with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter by turning the adjusting wheel.
It has latches (“clicks” along the divisions) or simply rotates tightly. The first option is better, since the installation will not fail during operation. It is good when such adjustment is implemented within wide limits, and it is very convenient when it can be done directly during operation.
Milling
Without going into the specifics of the operations and skipping the “Positioning the machine on a plane” point, we’ll tell you how to get started. Having established the maximum immersion depth, it is, if necessary, “divided” into several steps - the turret stop is designed for this. In the vast majority of cases, it has three adjustable legs.
Sometimes there are more of them, for example eight, which, however, is not considered a sign high class instrument, but rather speaks of originality. Without touching the leg on which the immersion depth was set, set the steps higher. The logic of action here is the same as in the case of revolutions - too large a cross-section of the passage at once will lead to slow movement and “burning” of the material, too small - to a loss of productivity.
Optimum is important. By turning the drum and moving from a high stop to a low one, they move along the workpiece to the desired depth.
Starting each pass, proceed like this. Turn on the motor, lower the cutter (into the material or outside the workpiece, depending on the situation) and secure the “head” with a stopper. If there are several passes or there is no confidence that the operation was successful, it is repeated. It is important to remember that you need to move along the workpiece in a strictly defined direction - the material towards the rotating knives.
It is impossible to drive the router “backwards”, as this will lead to defects. The direction of movement is usually indicated by an arrow on the sole; it is the same for all models.
A few words about the rod mechanism for raising/lowering the “head”. It is important to pay attention to the manufacturing class. Movement should be smooth and easy, without distortions or backlash. It’s good when the stopper acts on two rods - with this arrangement, the rigidity and accuracy of fixation is higher.
We hope that the reader has already understood that the main thing in a router is adjustments. They are required to ensure accuracy (this, by the way, largely depends on the rigidity of the structural elements) and convenience. But if you delve into the intricacies of performing operations, it becomes clear that something else is no less important - the system.
By it we mean a manual machine with devices for positioning it on a plane (without the latter, the router will be of little use, at least its versatility will suffer greatly). Let’s start the story about the “milling machine + guide vane” system with the simplest cases.
Cutter with support bearing
The most elementary and compact device that sets the position of the machine is the cutter itself, if it is supplemented with a miniature ball bearing. It is located under or above the cutting knives and, accordingly, rests on the upper or lower edge of the edge. With the help of such equipment, shaped edges are obtained or grooves are cut for a connection, edging, seal, etc.
The advantages of the method include the ease of preparatory operations (you only need to configure vertical position) and the ability to accurately process rounded and curved edges ( typical example- tabletop). The disadvantages follow from the advantages - it will not be possible to make a curve straight.
Rip fence
All of the above can be done with a regular milling cutter without a support bearing (it’s cheaper) if you use a copying ring or a rip fence. Let's start with emphasis. All milling cutters without exception are equipped with it, but this does not mean that it is the same for everyone. In the simplest case, the stop is a bent metal plate on two steel rods with a cutout in the center.
Guides with locks are provided for them in the sole of the router. To ensure rigidity, they are made long (the entire slab) or short, but double - two spaced apart for each rod. Fixation occurs at a minimum of two points (one on each side), and a maximum of four.
In the “primitive” version, such a stop has significant disadvantages - low rigidity of the stamped structure, difficulty in fine-tuning the position, restrictions on the diameter of the cutter used (it must fit in the central cutout), inability to adjust the base supporting surface. As the accessory becomes more complex, it gets rid of these shortcomings. As an example, let's look at the most interesting construction, omitting the intermediate ones.
The rods are fixed in the sole not with separate clamps, but with one, acting on both sides at once - this is more convenient. After the “pins” are clamped, the position of the support shoe is set - it is not made integral with the rods, but is capable of moving along them. It also has two clamps with one (which is more convenient) or two locking screws.
After rough adjustment, loosen the additional lock and move the supporting part of the shoe, rotating the adjustment wheel. As with the vertical adjustment, there are dimensional divisions here. Having set the required value, the additional stopper is fixed.
Next, if necessary, the pads are moved apart or brought closer together, thereby expanding the base and/or adjusting the size of the central gap between them to fit a cutter of a specific diameter. The final and most important note is that the base of the mechanism is not stamped steel, but cast from a light alloy.
The rip fence is useful when working with an edge or when milling into a surface at a given distance from the edge. They work both along an even contour and along a curved one. The “disadvantages” of such a positioning device are as follows: limited distance from the edge and the complexity of the process.
High-quality milling requires a certain skill and a steady hand. For example, it is easy to “overwhelm” the line at the beginning and end of the workpiece when the stop does not contact the edge along the entire length of the base. If the indentation is large, the risk of deviating from the perpendicular to the edge (or tangent to it when it is curved) also increases.
For convenience and accuracy of work, adjust the base of the side support. When the jaws are as close as possible, it is easier to start and finish the passage. When bringing the “shoes” together, it is necessary to remember that when lowering the cutter, it can meet them if the distance from the edge is insignificant.
A maximally expanded base will facilitate long passes at a great distance from the edge, when the torque is high, moving the stop line away from the perpendicular to the edge.
The router is placed on the marking line, the stop is brought to the edge and fixed. In this case, both rods are clamped by rotating one handle, usually with several “personal” screws.
Having released the lock of the precision adjustment mechanism, rotate the adjustment screw to achieve precise installation of the stop.
After the adjustment is completed, the mechanism is fixed.
Fine adjustment allows you to achieve complete coincidence of the marking line and the axis of the cutter. To facilitate the procedure, a “sight sight” is made on the sole, which is easier to navigate.
Guide rail
When it comes to straight lines, a guide bar is a good alternative to the rip fence. It is fixed at an arbitrary distance from the edge and at any angle to it. Instead of a stop, a special shoe is installed on the rods - it slides along the tire and sets the position of the router. Due to the support on the guide, a height difference may occur as the machine is raised above the workpiece. In order not to keep it suspended, they pull it out support leg(if provided).
In a special configuration, such guides also serve for precise milling of holes, which is especially important when making furniture (the ruler has holes with a standard pitch, the machine has a stopper; all you have to do is select the desired positions and drill).
Important note: a set of parts for working along the guide is not purchased in all cases; it must be included in the manufacturer's list of accessories and be suitable for the specific router.
The tire is fixed relative to the workpiece. The router is positioned along it using a “shoe” similar to a side stop, and can be placed on at different distances from her. Since only part of the platform rests on the tire, an additional “leg” is extended.
Copy ring
In some cases, the copy sleeve is installed in one movement; in this case, alignment is not required. 
There are other additional devices, but more on them later. Now let's talk about the copy ring - one of the mandatory attributes of a manual router, almost always included in the package. The device is very simple, but easy to use and useful.
Typically, this is a stamped steel plate with a raised ring around the center hole, which serves as a stop that tracks the copy template. The sleeve is selected for a specific cutter. Ideally, it should pass through the central hole with a small gap. In other words, you should not rely on the only ring that comes with the tool.
Most often, the bushing needs to be centered using a special cone. It is inserted into the collet (all the way to the copy ring), thereby leveling the position, and only then the mounting screws are finally tightened. Sometimes quick-release clamps are used instead of the latter, then there is no need to center anything.
The principle of operation of the equipment is simple - the protruding ring side in the center is guided along the template. In this case, the cutter follows the bends on the workpiece. The main “disadvantage” of such a “device” is one - it is impossible to get an exact copy - it will always be larger than the original.
This method is convenient in mass production (naturally, we are talking about household scales) or when the workpiece is valuable enough and it is worth making a template for its processing.
For accurate and comfortable work The router must have a smooth sole. When the copy sleeve is not in use, the groove intended for it is closed with a ring.
For precise and comfortable work, the router must have a smooth sole. When the copy sleeve is not in use, the groove intended for it is closed with a ring.
A similar bushing with the required diameter of the support ring is screwed on, but the mounting screws are not tightened.
For precise positioning of the bushing, a centering body is installed. It is clamped into a collet like a regular cutter (with the only difference being that the support sole is pressed against the body).
After installing the cone, the lowering mechanism stopper is released, and the sole, under the action of lifting springs, presses the cone to the bushing, thereby accurately centering it. Having secured the stopper again, the bushing fastening screws are securely tightened.
If the template gives reliable support only on one side of the platform; on the other, an additional “support” is pulled out and secured with a locking screw. If you don't do this, there is a high risk of losing exactly.
Angle stop
It is possible to get an exact (one to one) copy of the original by installing an angle stop with a feeler gauge (like many other accessories, it can be purchased separately). In this case, the workpiece is placed not under, but above the template. For precise adjustment of dimensions, adjustment of the position of the probe can be provided.
By the way, if you install a support plate or an adjustable stop for working in a horizontal position instead of a bracket with a probe, you will get a tool for flush milling of edge overlays.
Compass
A special case of curved cutting is along the radius. A compass ruler, purchased separately, will help you complete it without templates, which means more accurately and with less effort.
The sole of the router is rigidly screwed to the “compass”; The radius is set by moving along the “center” guide. The centering pin is inserted into the hole drilled in the workpiece. There are designs in which the “compass” is a side stop or an additional device mounted on the rods.
The disadvantage of this design is that not every cutter will pass through the hole provided in the substrate.
Dust extraction
About general features hand milling machines, perhaps, that's all. Let us only note that important has a dust removal system, because the place where this tool is “registered” is a workshop. The standard option is a casing fixed from below, under the parallel stop. The efficiency of such a collection is average, as is the other type - the side “bumper”. It is better when it is placed on top, however, only if the upper hole for the cutter is not too large.
Examples of use
As for the most famous work for a router - along the edge - no comments here, everything is clear: choose an attachment for the desired style and material, a method of positioning on the plane (cutter with a support roller, copying according to a template using a sleeve or an angular stop, on the workpiece itself using a side stop or guide bar) and get down to business. Actions with selecting grooves on a plane (decorative or technological) also do not require explanation.
What else can a milling cutter do?
The next group of typical tasks is the sidebar. Most models can easily cope with preparing seats for overhead or furniture hinges. More advanced ones, with increased vertical travel, will help with the installation of mortise locks.
A wide range of applications for hand routers involves joining parts made of wood and its derivatives. The simplest (do not require complex equipment) are tongue-and-groove joints and bindings. They are used in the manufacture of windows, doors and many other prefabricated joinery products. As a rule, two paired cutters are used (profile and counter-profile). As already mentioned, the tool facilitates precise drilling for dowels.
A rather expensive, but worth its price, device is a tenon cutter. Essentially, it is a complex and precision-made workpiece clamp, complete with a copying template. They work on it with a special copy sleeve. It not only rests on the plane of the template, but also “holds” onto it from the reverse side due to a small side.
Two or four mating parts are fastened at once (from the other edge, each pair is worked separately), while special stops set the required displacement of the workpieces relative to each other. Next, set up the router. Clamp the nozzle special form (« dovetail") and set the milling depth in accordance with the reference table. The density of the connection, that is, the gap in the tenon-socket pair, depends on it.
With precise adjustment, it is easy to achieve a “zero” gap - after assembly, the structure will hold tightly without glue or other additional measures fixation. Such compounds are used, for example, in the manufacture of furniture from solid wood of valuable species.
It is easy to get connections for a straight tenon - you will need a different template and nozzle.
As part of our article, we briefly outlined the main technological operations, but in fact there are much more of them. Which is not surprising, since the router is even used for artistic purposes to apply engravings (again, with a special pen cutter).
It is important to understand that this tool, with rare exceptions, is not a self-sufficient thing and requires all kinds of equipment and devices. Without them, he will hardly reveal even a quarter of his capabilities.
It is for this reason that you should treat your purchase as responsibly as possible, paying attention not so much to the device itself, but to the list of branded (some may not be suitable!) accessories for it.
Milling cutters
Working with a stop or guide and using a special cutter, make grooves for installing furniture hinges. For precise longitudinal positioning of holes, you can use a special tire that allows you to rigidly fix the position of the router at standard length intervals.
Some tenon joints are made using one cutter (a counter profile is not needed).
Special cutters required for making binding.
One of the cutters (profile) forms the edge of the part; pair (counter-profile) “pass” the end of the mating workpiece.
One of the cutters (profile) forms the edge of the part; pair (counter-profile) “pass” the end of the mating workpiece. This equipment is easy to use and also allows you to mill curved edges.
This equipment is easy to use and also allows you to mill curved edges.
Tenoning device
Depending on the type of template, a cutter is installed. By adjusting the depth of its immersion, the density of the connection is set. It can be assembled by tension or with glue (it is necessary to provide a gap for it). Using special windows in the template, the longitudinal position of the workpiece stops is set and they are turned with the side corresponding to the template.
A special copy sleeve is installed on the router. To increase the accuracy of vertical positioning, it has a lip on the support ring, which allows you to grip the template plate from both sides.
Guided by the general rule of guiding the tool against the stroke of the cutter, the workpiece is passed from the center to the edge. It is recommended to make a trim first (pass the template along the protrusions without “going into” them) - this will avoid chipping.
Wood milling can be a profession or a hobby. Beginning craftsmen will be interested in learning about how to choose a hand router, what techniques and rules exist when preparing and working with the tool, and what equipment may be needed when making wood products. Let's talk about this.
Wood milling is the mechanical processing of a material, removing part of it to create grooves, grooves, edges, holes, a figured pattern on the surface, and obtaining parts of complex shapes. A milling cutter is a hand-held power tool for woodworking with a working tool – a milling cutter. A milling cutter is a single- or multi-bladed tool that cuts wood while rotating. The capabilities of the work performed depend on the modification of the router, the number and type of cutters, as well as the density of the wood and the experience of the craftsman.
Types of hand routers
Wood milling is used in the manufacture of furniture, the production and installation of doors, and the laying of wooden floor coverings, for various kinds of crafts. The choice of tool depends on the prospects for its use: special and universal purposes.
Special milling cutters:
- submersible (for holes, grooves, grooves of any depth - the motor with the cutter moves along the vertical axis);
- edging (only for edges, chamfers - with a guide bearing);
- lamellar (for rounded linear grooves);
- dowel (for grooves, for dowels, tongue-and-groove assembly);
1 - submersible; 2 - edging; 3 - lamellar; 4 - dowel
The universal router is equipped with two bases. In this case, the tool works as a submersible tool and processes edges.
When choosing a tool, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- power (for home handyman 0.8-1.3 kW is enough);
- cutter speed;
- correspondence between power and speed;
- type of clamp (the best is a conical collet);
- speed adjustment (smooth, clock);
- maximum depth dives;
- accuracy of work;
- soft start;
- security locks;
- the presence of a dust extractor.
By determining the level of importance of each parameter, you can find a milling cutter that matches the upcoming tasks and intensity of use.
Types of cutting tools
Structurally, cutters can be monolithic, with replaceable blades, prefabricated, brazed. Materials: carbide or high-speed alloys, cermets, etc. The configuration of the tool corresponds to the recess or edge shape that needs to be obtained on the product.
Types of groove cutters:
- straight;
- fillets;
- structural;
- shaped;
- "dovetail";
- “mouse tooth”, etc.
Types of edge cutters:
- straight;
- moulding;
- disk;
- curly;
- horizontal, etc.
Each cutter is produced in various standard sizes. The easiest way is to purchase a kit containing a set cutting tool for a specific activity. The diameter of the part to be fixed must correspond to the collet of the router.
How to use a hand router
The easiest way to start learning is with a plunge router. Visually, such a tool is the most bulky and complex, but it is easier to work with, since the direction of the cutter is fixed by the design of the machine perpendicular to the surface being processed.
Step 1. Secure the cutter shank in the collet.
You need to insert the shank into the chuck and tighten it with the key provided for this purpose. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the tightening force. Overtightening is undesirable and insufficient fixation is also undesirable.
Attention! If you are planning a deep recess, it is better to take a cutter with an extended shank.
Step 2. Setting the excavation depth
If the work is carried out according to the drawings and the groove is shallow, you just need to set the appropriate depth on the limiter and set the fine adjustment (if the model has fine tuning). If milling is done “by eye”, you need to estimate the depth of the tool by placing the milling cutter against the end of the product. The depth can also be selected in stages - when producing more than 3-8 mm (depending on the diameter), precision work or at the learning stage.
Step 3. Testing the operation of the milling cutter
For those who have no milling experience, have purchased a new tool, or are working with an unfamiliar type of wood, it is advisable to use a “draft” - the same piece of wood as the future product. You need to test the operation of the cutter, changing the speed, direction (towards you, away from you, turning clockwise and counterclockwise) and the depth of the notch, and monitor the accuracy. Adjust settings.
Step 4. Determine rotation speed
When operating a cutter, an important indicator is the peripheral speed - the rotation speed not of the shank, but of the surface of the cutting tool in its widest part. If the cutter rotates too quickly, it will tear out wood fibers and leave gaps; if it rotates too quickly, the material will get burnt. If the rotation is too slow, the surface of the product will be rough, as if covered with “ripples”.
When adjusting, the rule applies: the larger the diameter of the cutter, the lower the speed on the shank (shaft revolutions) should be. Some manufacturers provide tools with instructions: wood/diameter/speed. If there is no such data, you need to experiment.
1 — too low speed; 2 — too high speed; 3 - not uniform motion cutters at high speeds; 4 - good result
Step 5. Fixing the product
The wood being processed should not wobble. The result of your work will be spoiled and you may injure yourself. The workpiece must be laid on a reliable base and secured, for example, with clamps. When using a template, it is also fixed.
Step 6. General rules preparation for work
Markings must be applied to the workpiece (when working without a template). The milling operator's movements should not be sudden. Soft start and smooth, uniform movement along the calculated trajectory, a correctly selected number of revolutions is a recipe for an ideal and beautiful result.
When working, you should not lean your whole body on the router or let it float freely. The pressure should be tight, confident, and uniform throughout the entire stage.
Attention! The instructions for the machine will indicate how to hold the router correctly. Each model has handles that ensure safety during operation.
Step 7 Milling the finished product
The start of work can be from the edge of the product (open groove) or in its mass (blind groove). In the first case, you must first install the router and then turn it on. In the second, turn it on and then move the cutter to the desired point. Upon completion of milling, you need to turn off the tool after removing it from the wood.
When making deep grooves and step cuts, you should always turn off the tool for adjustment. The maximum single depth must correspond to the diameter and material of the cutter, and the density of the wood. To obtain a smooth surface, the last removal should be no thicker than 1.5 mm.
It is important to correctly determine the speed of movement of the router along the line being processed. Too slow will cause overheating and burns. If you move too quickly, sawdust will not be removed in time, the work will be difficult, and it may look sloppy.
The basic rule when choosing the direction of movement of the router is: in the direction of the approach of the cutter blades (cutting edges). This applies to both free milling and tooling.
To process edges and obtain a certain edge configuration, sometimes the router is fixed under the table, with the router rising above the tabletop, and woodworking is performed by moving the workpiece relative to the router. Thus, from the category hand tool goes into the category of a mini-machine.
Equipment for working with a hand router
To make work easier and faster, it is advisable to use simple devices, such as:
- guide bars;
- parallel stop;
- rod compass;
- copy sleeves;
- templates
All devices can be purchased, and some can even be made independently and improved to match the author's idea.
The parallel stop ensures the straight movement of the cutter relative to the workpiece, the edge of the workbench, and the guide bar. This device is usually included with the tool.
The guide rail (bar) allows you to guide the tool not parallel to the edge, but at any given angle. It must be secured to the table with clamps. Homemade option— fixed wooden limiter bar.
A rod compass is needed to make circles, arcs, and geometric curves. When working with a compass, the movement should be performed in a counterclockwise direction.
The copying sleeve makes it easier to guide the tool along a complex path and ensures accuracy. In combination with templates, the best results are achieved.
There are two types of templates: internal and external. It all depends on whether the tool moves along the inner or outer edge. When moving along the inner contour of the template, the router must be moved clockwise, while along the outer contour it must be moved counterclockwise. The template must be thick enough so that the copy sleeve does not touch the workpiece.
You must also work with a milling cutter using equipment carefully, smoothly and equally progressively, as with free milling. Perhaps the first time you will get a not very outstanding milling result. This is the type of work where experience and attention to detail are very important.
The time of chasing cheap synthetic analogues is gradually becoming a thing of the past and people are increasingly drawn to beautiful things created with soul and from natural materials. Handmade carved items are a great way to make your interior unique and your home cozy. You can add nobility and originality to the room with the help of a variety of custom-made decorative items.
Elements of hand carved wood
Hand carving is the oldest method of artistic wood processing. The hand-carving technique allows you to play unlimitedly with shapes and realize your wildest fantasies. Even things created from the same sketch will never be the same, because they carry living energy and a piece of the master’s soul. requires a lot of patience and time, so products created to order by experienced craftsmen are highly valued.
Handmade products are made in a variety of ways. Moreover, each master has his own preferences, and some cutters are even made to order.
The main tools for working with wood include:
There are times when a carver is faced with a task that can only be solved with the help of special equipment.
For example, working with particularly hard exotic wood species - quebracho, algorro, backout, which cannot be handled by ordinary chisels. Useful tools in such cases, a drill is used. It is used for both rough and final sanding of the product.
Types of wood carving
Wood carving is grouped into the following types:
- geometric;
- flat-relief;
- sculptural;
Contour
It is a variety and is considered relatively simple. Straight, curved and broken lines form patterns and patterns on a flat wooden surface.
Example of contour wood carving The work is done with a special jamb knife, a sloping chisel, a cranberry corner and a semicircular cranberry. The main difficulty of the contouring technique is accuracy; you must not allow cuts and errors when drawing contours. Therefore, the workpiece should be firmly fixed on the workbench. In this case, working with two hands will be more confident and accurate.
In such decorative processing Various panels, furniture, dishes and decorative interior items are made. Hand carving of this type is decorative due to the lines various depths and width, as well as the method of selecting the background around the picture. Contour carving goes well with other techniques.
Geometric
The simplest, most accessible and at the same time very impressive type of carving. It is the creation of wedge-shaped recesses, cut at different angles and to different depths.
Various options geometric wood carving The following subtypes of geometric techniques are distinguished:
- Two-, three- and four-sided - the pattern is formed from recesses with several edges. Most often, the design is created from triangular recesses.
- Bracket - work is carried out semicircular chisels different diameters. A wide variety of ornaments are created from these brackets.
Flat-relief
When performing this carving, the design is located in one plane, and the surrounding background is deepened and selected so that the relief appears more clearly. Flat-relief carving is very diverse and working with it requires a lot of specialized tools: knives, chisels, scrapers.
In flat-relief technology, the following subtypes are distinguished:
- with a selected background;
- with pillow background;
- with an oval outline.
Products made using the flat-relief technique are very popular and are most often made to order.
Products made with flat-relief carvings So painstaking handmade requires from the master a rich imagination, patience and a lot of experience.
Embossed
One of the most expressive and beautiful views thread. Products made using the relief technique are very popular for decorating interiors, furniture, and walls.
There are two types of relief wood finish:
- Bas-relief. The drawing rises above the main background by no more than half its volume.
- High relief. The image rises to more than half its volume.
Sculptural
One of the most ancient and complex wood processing techniques. Forms a separately protruding relief, sculpture or an entire volumetric composition. Sculptural carving requires the carver to have a lot of experience, skill and special equipment.
Sculptural carvings are viewed from all angles and must therefore be carefully thought out and executed. 
The work is done with chisels of various widths and a special tool - a Bogorodsk knife.
Brownie
The main difference between house carvings is their size, and its purpose is to decorate the exterior of the house with the help of various figures and ornaments. The workpieces are processed with the most accessible tools: jigsaw, axe, saw, chisels. Almost all types of techniques are used for house carving, but the most common are overhead and slotted carvings:
- Slotted (openwork) carving. It is distinguished by a completely removed background of the picture.
- . A blank surface is decorated with a slotted blank, which creates the illusion of a blank carving.
If you are interested in carving, wood carving with a router with your own hands will interest you even more. Carving is an ancient art that was famous in Rus'. The peculiarity of the art lies in working with tools and wooden workpieces.
A few words about the main thing
Fraser is a universal tool that is used for wood processing. Experts often use it during repairs. For example, drill holes, install locks on the door, etc. In carving, the tool is designed for processing the edges of products.
WITH manual router it's not difficult to work. It is enough to know the basics of work. The kit always comes with many working heads, each of them performs a specific function.
Not all craftsmen are able to work with a router. Very often in educational books you can find a quote: “Learn to work with a jigsaw and chisels. Try doing the work with your hands. Once you gain experience, it will be easier to handle the router.” When choosing, you should consult with specialists so as not to buy a low-quality tool.
To get started with the tool, you can sign up for courses. Unfortunately, they can be expensive or not everyone will want to attend them. Nowadays, it is quite easy to find tutorials. There are video tutorials that will help you learn the basics of working with a router. Examples of some of them are listed below.
A milling cutter is a difficult tool, so before watching the video you need to read the instructions on how to use the tool. Many websites and books offer the basics of assembly, settings, and tell you about the purpose of each cutter. In specialized stores you can find additional attachments for the router.
The router diagram for beginners is shown in the photo:
Material component
To create beautiful product, need to stock up the necessary materials. For starters, pencils. They come in different softnesses, so you need to treat them with special care.
When a master makes sketches of his work, he uses various stationery tools - pencils, erasers, rulers and compasses. Thanks to them, the work will be flawless.
The success of the work depends on the wood. Not every wood will do for carving. Masters advise using linden, pine, fir and birch. There are no nicks left on them, the work goes easily.
Don't forget the tools. In addition to the router, there are chisels, jigsaws, etc. If the router performs rougher work, then they are suitable for small products - boxes, sculptures, trim, animal figurines.
Photo examples:
Where to start
In order to “make friends” with a router, you need to practice on simple products. Working according to the template will help you get better. Take a pre-prepared blank and apply a drawing, trying to maintain the proportions. Finding templates is easy. There are options on the Internet that are easy to transfer with a pencil.
Don't forget about master classes. The advantage is that you can compare your result with the result of the work of an online mentor.
Drawings for inspiration:
Patterns on products may vary. Everything depends on the imagination of the creator, because the one who creates sees the work in his own way. Beginners, having mastered the basic rules, proceed to complex ones. You can learn to adjust the depth of the cut by adding patterns with different cutters. To make the work unique, craftsmen add notched carvings to the products.
Efficient work
The use of a manual electric router is suitable for artistic carved furniture. Artistic carvings look especially beautiful on furniture. Milling cutters different sizes and profiles easily perform various tasks. Unfortunately, it is impossible to make triangular-notched work with a router. This task is suitable for chisels or knives. Bas-relief, contour cutting on wood - all this can be done with a hand router.
We can say that the functionality of the tool depends on the configuration. Various devices can work wonders, improve the product and make the work of the master easier.
Stencils are suitable not only for conventional tools, but also for a hand router. Examples can be seen below:
What else can you use a hand router for? Craftsmen can transform the interior of a home using this tool. Designer items often attract attention interesting items. If you want to change something in the house, then a router is especially for this! He is able to revive old things. A beautiful pattern has never detracted from the look of a tree!
To carry out this kind of task, there is a figured carving that embodies unusual solutions in interior design. It can be used to decorate furniture, parquet floors, and make new decorations. This carving predominates in the Slavic style. Nowadays, it is coming back into fashion and hand-milled products are highly valued on the goods market.
A router is a tool for processing lumber that makes many rotations at high speed. There are both professional equipment, for example milling and engraving machines, and for self-processing, requiring certain skills and knowledge. Detailed instructions with a training video on the site will help you carry out high-quality wood processing operations with a manual electric router.
Working with a manual wood router helps to carry out the following carpentry operations:
- Processing flat and shaped surfaces, edge profiling of platbands, skirting boards, cornices, glazing beads.
- Formation of technological and shaped recesses (grooves, ridges, etc.).
- Making through and blind holes.
- Cutting complex parts from wood and copying them.
- Applying inscriptions, drawings, patterns on the surface (engraving).
- Inserting locks and hinges on doors.
- Making a tenon joint. This is a complex process requiring special skills, which results in a highly durable assembly of wooden products.
Depending on the type of work performed with a manual wood router, video tutorials of which can be viewed at the end of the article, you will need the following equipment:
- Milling cutter
- Jigsaw
- Electric drill and drill bits
- Templates
- File
- Protective clothing and respirator.
With the help of such a tool, a novice master can return old furniture to life, carry out small carpentry and decorative works with wood around the house.
Choosing an electric milling machine
In order to mill at home, it is recommended to choose a universal tool, which is an electric router with an interchangeable base - plunge and edge, thanks to which it performs any type of woodwork, depending on the selected type of cutter. It is better if it has a speed control and works with a cutter with a diameter of at least 8 mm, optimal power should be 800-1300 W. When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to the actual immersion depth of the cutter, on which the maximum depth of the resulting groove will depend.
The most the best option for clamping the cutter there is a conical collet, and for the switch there is a locking button. The smoother the operation of the rod mechanism, the more durable the tool.
An important point in the operation of an electric milling machine is right choice cutter, which consists of a cylindrical shank of various diameters (6.8 or 12 mm) and a part with a cutting edge.
According to their design, cutters are divided into the following types:
- Monolithic
- Prefabricated
- With replaceable blades.
Depending on the type of processing performed by the cutter, it also comes in several varieties:
- A groove cutter is used to form grooves.
- Profile - to give the edge a decorative profile.
- Edge and seam cutters are used to process the edges of the product.
- Filling – for cutting a “U”-shaped notch on the product.
- The cone cutter bevels the edge of the product at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Moulded – forms a rounded edge.
Working with a hand router: instructions for beginners
Working with a hand router, video tutorials of which will help a novice craftsman, may seem difficult only at the beginning of the process. Once you acquire your first skills in wood processing with your own hands, you will be able to start more boldly.
- Working with a hand router begins with assembling the tool. A cutter suitable for the diameter of the collet chuck is inserted into it. If necessary, the cartridge itself is replaced with a different diameter. Then the shank is tightened in the chuck using a special key with a clamping force sufficient to prevent the cutter from hanging out in it. After this, the spindle mechanism is clamped, the tool is ready for use.
- Next, the required milling depth is set. To do this, you need to fix the position of the cutter by pressing on it. The exact depth is set using the limiter control, which has several degrees.
- The speed of the milling cutter is set based on the data in the table from the instructions and material parameters, as well as the size of the cutter itself. Working with a manual wood router should first be done on a rough version in order to test the tool stroke, milling depth and working speed. The correct milling stroke is to move the tool away from you on a flat base, and counterclockwise when processing the product in a circular manner. Working with a hand router is described in more detail in the training video.
Manual milling machine: methods of operation
Depending on the type of processing performed, the choice of working methods with a manual milling cutter depends. The following is a presentation of how to use a hand router (training video), methods and techniques.
Techniques for working with a hand router: forming grooves
When forming a groove from the very edge, the tool should be installed so that the cutter hangs over the edge of the product. Next, it is lowered to the required depth and fixed, after which the tool is put into operation. After processing the edge to the end, you need to loosen the lock, raise the cutter, and the tool motor can be turned off. The formation of a blind groove is done in exactly the same way, only it does not start from the edge of the product.
A deep groove is formed by adjusting the new depth of the cutter with each approach to the area being processed, with a depth of no more than 5 mm, when processing the last layer - no deeper than 1.5 mm.
Additional methods for forming grooves and lessons on working with a hand router (video in Russian) are presented below.
End surface processing
Working with a hand router on wood (video below) is often accompanied by processing of the end surface, which requires a clean edge. To do this, a shallow cut is first made, while the electric milling machine moves in the direction of rotation of the knife, and then against its rotation. After this, the end will acquire clear outlines.
Processing using templates
To form curved edges, templates with a thrust ring are used, which is a plastic plate that moves along the template for the correct trajectory of the cutter. The thrust ring is attached to the router base using special fasteners. Using templates you can copy wooden parts in the right quantity.
Working with a hand router: video of decorative processing
For artistic milling, in addition to a cutter, you will need a jigsaw, a vice, a chisel, and a piece of wood with a pattern. It is fixed on a well-stable surface, and an electric router equipped with a special cutting attachment is used to follow the pattern, gradually removing a layer of wood until the required volume of the ornament is achieved.