Approach the issue of plating wooden house it is necessary to carefully plan and think through the entire process at the stage of developing a private building project. This priority is due to the fact that not only the presentability of the facade, but also the resistance of the building to various external influences (temperature changes, humidity, wind and harsh solar radiation) will depend on the quality of the finishing.
The modern market of construction and finishing materials is able to offer a wide range of products of various types and price categories. Often a person who has recently decided to furnish his new home has many difficulties associated with the correct choice of cladding for a wooden house. Therefore, it is important to know the basic parameters that finishing materials must comply with.
Selection of finishing material
Modern construction technologies provide us with a fairly large range of finishing materials that meet all the necessary requirements. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of how decorative design home, and directly functional characteristics. It should be noted that, due to their specific nature, not all existing materials are suitable for finishing wooden buildings. Let's consider the most optimal options sheathing.
Wooden lining
Wood lining allows you to preserve the natural and natural appearance of the house, while significantly improving its external design and functional characteristics. It is a flat board that is easily mounted and joined to adjacent ones in the longitudinal direction using special spikes.
Note! This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, high strength, and also provides excellent level temperature and acoustic insulation.
The main disadvantage of wooden lining is its relative vulnerability to insects and rodents. This problem is partially solved by treating the surface with special protective equipment. The second disadvantage of the material is fading, so a house with this finish should be painted approximately every three years.
GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. Specifications. File for download.
Block house
In fact, a block house is a type of wooden lining. It is made only from coniferous trees tree species. The main difference between this finish is the shape of its elements - this material imitates cylindrical logs. The internal surface of the block house is flat, which simplifies the installation process using the tongue-and-groove technology. Unlike ordinary wooden lining, the block house has best performance protection from influence weather conditions and insects. However, it should be noted that the price of this material is significantly higher, which, of course, is its main disadvantage.
finishing the facade of a wooden house with a block house
Vinyl siding
This material has excellent resistance to high temperatures positive temperatures. It practically does not deform and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In addition to this vinyl siding easy to care for, easy to clean and does not need to be repainted periodically. The available colors are so wide that anyone can choose a shade to their liking. Vinyl panels can be installed not only using self-tapping screws, but also using regular nails.
Vinyl siding - technical specifications
But even such a functional material has its drawbacks. It is intended for use in countries with temperate and warm climates, so it does not tolerate extreme cold well. The strength of the material is also low; vinyl panels require quite careful handling. In addition, when choosing this type of siding, keep in mind that under the influence of direct sun rays panels dark shades After a couple of years they can noticeably burn out.
Metal siding
This finishing material, in comparison with vinyl, does not have a number of key disadvantages. First of all, it is much more protected from sunburn. This allows you to safely use siding in darker colors without the risk of getting a faded facade in two or three years. sunny side Houses. Moreover, even with very low temperatures the metal does not lose its strength and wear resistance.
There are three main disadvantages of metal siding:
- susceptibility to corrosion in case of violation of the outer protective layer;
- vulnerability to impact loads and the possibility of profile deformation;
- high coefficient of thermal conductivity (metal quickly heats up and cools down).
PVC panels
Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are identical in characteristics to vinyl siding, since they represent one of its varieties. However, in terms of creating original design solutions PVC elements give builders more options. Such panels allow you to create high-quality imitation of stone, brick and marble surfaces, and are also easily combined with standard vinyl siding, which allows you to give building facades a unique and exclusive look.
Preparatory work
The main part of the preparation for the process of insulation and cladding of a wooden building consists of sanitizing its walls with the help of special chemicals designed to protect the wood from infection by fungus, harmful insects and rodents. In addition, it is mandatory between internal walls and a special vapor barrier layer is laid on the outer thermal insulation layer.
As a rule, it is:
- polyethylene;
- aluminum foil;
- bitumen roofing felt;
- vapor barrier made of special materials.
The most optimal price/quality ratio is polyethylene, since it can significantly reduce the financial costs of covering a house.
Installing a vapor barrier involves maintaining a small air gap between it and the wall of the building. Therefore, if the walls are flat on the outside, before laying the film, a frame should be built on them from slats about 3 centimeters thick, nailing them in increments of about half a meter. After this, special work must be done in the slats in all four directions. ventilation holes and proceed directly to the installation of the vapor barrier. The film is nailed to the slats or round logs of the wall with nails or a construction stapler with an overlap at intervals of about 15 centimeters. Upon completion of this stage, the joints and placement of fasteners must be sealed with special construction tape.
Selection of thermal insulation material
After successful completion of all preparatory work you can begin to create a thermal insulation layer of the sheathing. Due to the specificity of a material such as wood, optimal choice will be the use of slabs mineral wool. However, various options are possible.
Table No. 1. Materials for insulating the facade of a wooden house.
| Material | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|
| - excellent thermal insulation performance; - ease of installation; - protection from pests. | - poor air permeability, which leads to wood rotting; - not fire resistant; - is not an environmentally friendly material. |
| - excellent thermal insulation; - resistant to fire; - protected from the influence of microbes and pests. | - vapor-tight, poorly ventilated. - difficult to cut and install. |
| - well ventilated; - retains heat perfectly; - easy to install; - environmentally friendly; - resistant to fire. | The ingress of moisture if the installation technology is violated leads to a sharp decrease in insulating properties. |
It should be noted that polystyrene foam and penoplex are used for insulation wooden houses extremely rare, so it is recommended to opt for mineral wool.
Features of the process of thermal and waterproofing of wooden houses
Mounted on top of the previously installed vapor barrier layer wooden frame from vertically nailed boards. It is optimal to use a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. The frame elements must be positioned in such a way that the distance between them is 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral slabs. This will allow for a tighter fit of the insulating material without the use of additional fasteners.
The next stage of covering a wooden house is the installation of a waterproofing film on top of the insulation layer. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the film in relation to the mineral wool blocks: the rough surface should be directed towards the insulation, and the smooth surface should be directed outwards. As at the stage of work on installing a vapor barrier, fastening occurs using a construction stapler with an overlap, followed by gluing the staples and joints with tape.
When the waterproofing is installed, it is necessary to nail another layer of boards on top of the previously created frame, on which the external finishing elements will be placed at the final stage. The recommended wood thickness is 4 cm with a width of 5 cm.
Carrying out external finishing works
External work is the final stage of finishing a house, which requires special care and a thorough approach. Not only the aesthetics of the facade, but also the functionality of the previously created insulating layers will largely depend on the quality of installation of the external cladding elements.
Installation of block house and wooden lining
The process of securing wooden lining is carried out as follows.
Table No. 2. Cladding the facade with clapboard.
| Steps, illustrations | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| Having prepared and cut the boards to the required length, they are mounted on the frame. Sheathing should be done in the direction from bottom to top, from the corner of the building. |
| The starting board is installed and nailed (or fixed with special fasteners), with the tenon facing down. It must be positioned strictly parallel to the ground, so a level must be used to check the result. If everything is done correctly, you can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, the board must first be leveled. |
| The next board is inserted into the groove of the previous one. In order for the boards to fit tightly together, the top one needs to be hammered into the groove of the bottom one using a special wooden hammer. |
| After joining the boards, the second one is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first. |
| All subsequent boards are attached using a similar algorithm. |
| After installation is completed, you need to start decorating the corners of the building. To do this, two boards are vertically attached to them so that one overlaps the other. Window trims are designed in the same way. |
Installation of vinyl and metal siding
A general scenario for installing vinyl siding includes:
- installation on the frame of the starting bar;
- installation of corners and H-shaped connecting strips;
- fastening and installation of siding panels;
- installation of the finishing strip and fixation of the final tier.
The starting strip is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building or that part of it that will be sheathed with vinyl. Since the plank will be covered from above by a row of panels, there are no special requirements for it: you can use connections from scraps and even a strip of a different color. The initial stage is the most important, so it is worth approaching it thoroughly, because it will be quite difficult to correct the slightest imbalance in the event of an error.
- First, a nail is driven in at the corner of the outer frame of the building below and a thread is pulled along the wall, which should be used as a guide in the future. Note that the distance from the ground to the thread should be equal to the width of the starting strip.
- Next, having secured the thread at the second corner, it is placed in correct position using a level. The result should be a straight line strictly parallel to the ground.
- Using chalk or a pencil, draw a straight line, for which the thread is used as a guide. It will mark the place where the starting strip will be fixed.
- The plank is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
We draw your attention to the fact that you need to check the correct installation of the panels with a level as often as possible. It is advisable to do this before starting the installation of every third row of siding.
Fastening the vertical corner strips must begin before installing the main panels, since it is in them that all rows of siding are installed. Getting to this stage finishing works, you should know some of the features of this process.
- The corner bar should be located at a height of 0.5-0.7 cm from the ground. This is done so that during thermal expansion the plank does not rest against the foundation and does not become deformed.
- The corner must be secured with self-tapping screws from top to bottom. In this case, pay attention to the fact that the first fastener is made at the top point of the hole, and all subsequent ones - in the center. This approach makes it possible to ensure that the sheathing material expands only downwards and to the sides.
- The bottom edge of the vertical corner strip must be cut to the width of the starting strip. The goal, as in previous cases, is the same - to avoid the consequences of expansion of the material when heated.
Final result
The flexibility of the corners of vinyl and metal siding makes it easy to use these materials in the process of finishing blunt and sharp corners buildings. To cover an obtuse corner, the profile is pressed down, and when working with an acute corner, it is narrowed.
Installation and fastening of the H-profile, which is used for horizontal joining of sheathing elements, is similar to the process of installing corner strips. In this case, it is necessary to comply important rule: the starting strips should be adjacent to the profile, and not vice versa. In addition, when covering with siding, you can do without the H-profile altogether if you arrange the strips overlapping.
The process of installing rows of siding panels occurs according to the following algorithm.
- The first strip is inserted into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, after which it is snapped into the starting lock.
- Fastening to the frame should be done using self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the nail holes. Remember that you cannot screw the siding tightly, you need to leave it free space for thermal expansion.
- All subsequent tiers, except the top one, are mounted in the same way.
At the final stage of wall cladding, the top plank is mounted, after which the distance from it to the lock of the penultimate tier is measured. Next, the finishing panel is bent so that its width corresponds to the measured distance, and inserted into the lock.
The process of external cladding with PVC panels is essentially similar to the installation of siding trim discussed above. It uses an identical system of locks and clutches, which may vary only slightly depending on the manufacturer of materials.
Let's hope that our instructions and tips for finishing wooden houses helped you clarify the understanding of the features of this process and made it easier to implement your plans and creative ideas.
Video - Siding a wooden house
Exterior finishing of a wooden house allows you to realize any design ideas using without the involvement of professionals. Below are the best options self-installation panels, stone and wet materials. For this it is important to stock up necessary tool, decorative items and necessary means for surface preparation.
Choice of technique:
- Dry installation. The whole process is carried out using dowels, clamps, screws, nails, etc. The choice of materials is between panels, siding, block house, imitation timber, etc.
- Wet technology. Facing is carried out using glue and other binders based on water composition. These include plastering, clinker and tiles.
- There are options that preserve the original appearance of the structure. The walls are coated with a special impregnation or decorated with paint.
Species exterior finishing divided into main types of structures:
- Ventilated facade. The product forms a gap between the outer cladding and the facade.
- Not ventilated facade. The products are fastened directly to the wall without creating free gaps.
Preparation of materials
Materials for finishing the house are presented in the form of thermal panels and siding. In addition, you can plaster and paint surfaces, decorate with stone and clapboard.
Attention! Plastic slabs and even bricks often appear in outbuildings.
Surface preparation
Pre-treatment consists of applying an antiseptic to a previously cleaned surface. It is important to provide sealing of seams and sealing of deformations. Caulking is carried out around the entire perimeter using flax fiber or jute.
Cladding the facade of a house with panels
The finishing of panels is carried out using material with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm. Application of products is carried out according to the principle of a ventilated facade, but it is possible to use the wet method of placing it on the wall using glue.
Fastening to the grid is done in increments of 50-60 cm. Thermal insulation is placed between the film layer. Tight fastening of the panels is carried out using self-tapping screws.
The seams are rubbed with a special compound. Connectors are placed in the corners. They are placed before installation begins. Following this, the slabs are placed on a flat horizontal surface, according to the picture.
Siding placement
Finishing the external walls of a wooden house consists of the following basic steps:
- Arrangement of sheathing (wooden beams or metal profiles).
- Placement of heat and vapor barriers (film and roll/tile insulation).
- Creation of an additional grid (bars with smaller parameters or special fastening).
- In some cases, exterior window decoration in a wooden house will be required.
Description of works:
- The lathing is created on top of clean and level walls in increments of 600 mm. The elements are placed in a horizontal position. The formation of differences can be corrected with array substrates.
- The vapor barrier is overlapped by 10-15 cm. The joints are sealed with tape. Fixing the film to wooden beams is provided using a construction stapler.
- Polymer or basalt materials serve as insulation. The latter are available in the form of slabs or mats. The products are laid between the sheathing elements. The connection to the grating should not affect the formation of cracks. The top layer of insulation is an additional layer of film, laid with a rough coating in inner part. The insulation is connected to the vapor barrier using plastic mushrooms or tape.
- A second level of sheathing is placed on top. The vertical placement of timber 2.5x2.5-3 cm thick promotes ventilation of the system. The gap is at least 3 cm. At the corners, 2 beams are attached, used to fix the corner elements.
- Siding is placed from the corners. After finishing external corners, sew the first plate. It is placed below, at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ground surface. The first slab is fixed level. Its placement determines the even position of the entire structure. If the product forms a gap to the corner of the building, then the joint is formed in a checkerboard pattern.
Finishing of plastic windows
Preparation of materials:
- Plastic panels.
- Corners.
- Hermetic composition.
- Stapler with staples.
Installation steps:
A starting strip is placed for inserting plastic panels.
The panels are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in with a screwdriver in the upper and lower positions.
The remaining parts are attached. To completely cover the width of the slope, you will need several panels connected to each other using the tenon and groove principle.
The joints are treated with a hermetic compound. Mounted external and internal plastic corners. This is facilitated by liquid nails or assembly adhesive. To place the outer corners, you can use polyurethane foam.
Slopes made of lining
Installation of slopes is carried out according to the principle plastic slopes or using lathing. The material is fixed on top of the slope using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. To do this, a starting strip is initially placed around the perimeter.
The formation of defects during installation is hidden under the corners, which contribute to the tightness of the product.
Applying plaster
Before processing the product, markers or “beacons” are placed to determine the thickness of the plaster layer. Markers are created from alabaster. The markers are installed on nailed shingles. Then a rough layer of material (9-12 mm) is applied to fill the shingle cells. After drying, the surface is primed and covered with a thin layer of 2 mm. The final thickness of the plaster layer is 12 – 20 mm.
All additional elements– skirting boards, platbands, fillets and baguettes are fixed after the plaster layer has completely dried. And the gaps between them and the plaster surface are filled with a similar solution.
Brick finishing
The work is carried out using facade bricks. To secure the masonry to façade walls connective elements made of metal are placed using clasps. Between brick and external wall creates the gap necessary for natural ventilation. Its width is 5 cm.
Application of PVC panels
It is assembled onto a sheathing, which consists of vertical slats packed at a distance of 40 cm. You can use metal and wooden structures, on top of which the panels are screwed. The gap between the ends of the two plates is approximately 7 mm; you should not screw the products very tightly. Sheathing is done from the center to the edge.
Using tiles
Wild stone imitation tiles, brickwork and marble surfaces are used for covering the foundation. Fastening is done with adhesives. It is important to build a sheathing. To simplify the masonry, guide profiles are placed.
Block house placement
On the outside, the material serves as an imitation of a rounded log or a classic log house. And inside the panel is adjacent to the wall by means of lathing. Fastening is carried out according to the tenon-phase principle. Plates are applied in a horizontal or vertical position. The first option is carried out using panels measuring 23*88 mm. Horizontal installation facilitates the placement of spikes at the top. The corner joint is formed by sawing the panels at an angle of 45 degrees. or by covering the inner corner with the outer one. For fastening to the grille, clamps or small nails are used. Self-tapping screws are used for a wide block house.
Before fastening, holes are created in the lining for self-tapping screws. They are then hidden with plugs placed using an adhesive base.
Modern and natural finish houses are increasingly attracting the attention of homeowners. The easiest installation option is wooden cladding, which has found its application both inside and outside the building. It gives the building a special flavor.
Today, home decoration is gaining more and more momentum. Wood is great for this purpose.
The material for finishing the outside of the house is an imitation of timber. There are several types of wood cladding:
- Block house.
- American.
- Standard.
- Softline.
At its core, each of the listed types of wooden cladding is equipped for installation with a groove and a tenon, which ensure reliable adhesion during the cladding process. They differ from each other only in size and configuration, but their installation principle is the same.
How to sheathe the outside of a house with wood: instructions
Decorating the outside of a house with wood will not pose a huge hassle to an experienced person. Such work can also be done by those who want to do it themselves. This is primarily due to the fact that wooden panels for cladding are quite easy and simple to install.
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Installation of lathing with subsequent insulation
To cover the outside of the house for the facing covering, it is necessary to mount a frame. To install it you need to prepare:
- Beam.
- Level.
- Self-tapping screws or nails.
- Screwdriver or screwdriver, hammer.
- Waterproofing.
- Antifungal mixture for wood and brush.
All external walls of the house must first be protected from moisture. Waterproofing will help with this. They begin to mount the frame on top of the insulation layer. Typically, beams measuring 30x30 mm are used for it.
All material for the sheathing must first be treated with an antifungal compound.
Insulation must be laid in the spaces between the frame slats.
The slats are installed vertically, and the distance between the sheathing parts is usually 50-60 cm. If it is necessary to insulate the building, now is the time to carry out this work. The gaps formed between the slats are filled with insulation (for example, glass wool). A windproof film can be laid over the insulation layer. Its joints are taped with aluminum tape.
On top of the installed thermal insulation, another frame of wooden slats is formed. An air cushion between the sheathing material and the house is necessary for ventilation. Otherwise, due to atmospheric phenomena, moisture will constantly accumulate on protective film, which, in turn, will sooner or later lead to negative consequences.
If there are no plans related to insulation, you can proceed immediately to installation wood panels without additional frame.
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Fastening wooden panels outside the house
Scheme of covering the walls of a house with clapboard: 1 - insulation; 2 - waterproofing; 3 - lining.
Before you begin installation, place the wood material for several days in the environment where it will be installed. Treat it with an antifungal agent. Coat the grooves and tenons with special care. This way the life of the tree will be extended.
Directly for installing the lining, prepare not only the lining itself, but also the tools and material for fastening:
- Nails or screws. These fasteners must be coated to prevent corrosion. Their length should be 1.5-2 times the thickness of the cladding.
- Hammer, screwdriver or screwdriver.
- Saw on wood.
- Wooden strip for corners.
Installation of the first panel begins from the bottom. Place the board at least 30 cm above the ground to eliminate the possibility of deformation of the material due to contact with the surface. During the fastening process, each part should face the tenon upwards. Due to this, the possibility of moisture accumulation will be minimized.
There are several ways to secure a tree outside the house:
- 2 holes are made in the board (from the groove and tenon side) on each side to the size of the diameter of the screw head. Their depth is half the thickness of the finishing material. The screws are screwed in all the way, and the voids formed are sealed with a special wood putty or caulked with a cork, which is subsequently sanded flush with the board.
- The board is secured to the sheathing with nails. In this case, they are driven into the groove or tenon of the panel at an angle of 45 degrees.
Using any of the proposed options, the exterior of the house is clad along the entire perimeter of the structure. In the corners of the building, the joints of the boards are covered with a special semicircular or flat panel. Fasten it with liquid nails or special glue. For sharp corners, use a special wooden strip. For window and doorways use decorative wooden frames, which are fastened, like corner elements. In conclusion installation work the entire finishing surface can be varnished, which will give the building a special shine.
Finishing siding on a log house: features, recommendations and our experience
If you are the (hopefully) happy owner of a log home, then you know that these homes are special, and when protecting such a home from the weather with “vinyl armor,” this must be taken into account.
In this article we will look at what are the main differences between siding a house made of round timber, and what you should pay attention to.
Why decorate a log house with siding?
A wooden house, in addition to its undeniable advantages, has a number of disadvantages.
It's cold in the house
Log house, like timber house, consists of “crowns” - horizontally stacked tree trunks (logs or beams).
Because of this, the thickness of the wall is uneven: in the middle of the crown it is maximum, in the place where the crowns are connected to each other (between the logs) it is minimal.
Heat is like water: it flows where there is the least resistance. Therefore, the thermal conductivity of the wall is determined by the thermal conductivity of the “coldest” section.
In a house made of logs, there are exactly the same number of such sections as the number of crowns that make up the wall. The thicker the log, the fewer crowns. The thinner the more.
If we take the most common thickness of a log house log (25 cm), it turns out that a wall 2.5 m high will consist of 14 crowns (including a bowl in each crown).
Even if your log house was made by masters of their craft, it is still impossible to achieve perfect contact between the crowns. To reduce heat loss in the cracks between the logs, the house is insulated with inter-crown insulation and the cracks that formed during the shrinkage of the house are caulked.
But, whatever one may say, it is impossible to completely solve the problem of cracks. That's why log house, like timber, lose heat much more than, for example, frame.
If a house loses heat, then it must be insulated, otherwise it will only be warm inside in the summer. And the simplest and effective way to insulate a log wall means installing insulation on the outside and covering it with siding.
The house has "lost its appearance"
Log - very beautiful material. Of course, there will be people who disagree with this, but there are fewer of them than who agree.
A new and fresh log house looks great: golden-yellow trunks, natural wood pattern pleasing to the eye.
But if the house has stood for 20-30 years, then its appearance is no longer so pleasing: somewhere it has turned black, somewhere it has turned green, somewhere dust has eaten into the wood.
When a tree is alive, it is covered with bark and vitality help fight external influences. But when it is cut down and “stripped”, it becomes defenseless to the changing seasons, rain, sun and dust.
Therefore, the old log house no longer looks so festive and pleasant, and is not pleasing to the eye. I want to cover it with something.
Once again, vinyl siding comes to your aid and solves this problem quickly and easily.
Exterior cladding increases the lifespan of a home
A tree deprived of natural protection quickly becomes unusable. And if you want your log house to last you longer, you will have to help it.
In order to increase the service life of a log house, you need to take care of it: treat it with special compounds on the outside, caulk the cracks, and immediately remove fungus and mold.
It's not the most enjoyable job, and it takes time and effort.
Another option is to encase your home in “vinyl armor,” which will protect it from the elements and UV rays.
The main advantage of such protection is that you don’t have to take care of it: just trim it and forget it.
In addition, if the cladding is professionally installed, it will provide everything necessary conditions: protection from external influences And proper ventilation outer surface.
This will make your home last longer.
Why do some people think that a log house cannot be sheathed with siding?
There is a widespread opinion among lovers of wooden houses, as well as log house builders, that a log house cannot be covered with siding.
They usually say that “the log under the siding does not breathe, so it rots.”
And this is true if the people who install the siding do not understand the technology.
Properly installed siding provides all the necessary ventilation for any house: log, timber, aerated concrete or frame.
In order for the house to “breathe”, it is necessary to follow the technology: order and correct fastening of membranes and insulation, as well as a ventilated gap under the siding.
From our experience working with vinyl panels since 2009, we can responsibly declare: a log house properly covered with siding does not rot and lasts longer.
What is the main difference between the walls of a log house when finishing with siding?
The surface of the log house is uneven. Of course, if your house is not built from a gun carriage, hewn on both sides. But then it will be more suitable for you, because the walls made of carriages behave like those of a timber house when installing siding.
The surface of "round timber" is entirely made up of waves, and this distinguishes it from other materials. It is more difficult to attach insulation and membranes to it than to a flat surface.
There are no more differences. Everything is the same: films, frame, panels and accessories.
Features of installing siding on log walls
Due to the unevenness of the wall, there are a number of features for installing the frame and insulation if the walls of your house are insulated.
Let's look at the most basic features so you know what to look for when you order siding for your home.
Installation of the frame on a log wall
Due to the wavy surface of the wall, installing the frame on which the vinyl panels will be attached becomes more difficult.
The logs in the crowns of your log house can be of different thicknesses or have convex and concave areas in the most unexpected places. This leads to the fact that the frame has to be aligned with the most “protruding” crown.
As a result, it may happen that one log in the middle of the wall will become a supporting one and will determine the passage of all the sheathing posts.
If the house is insulated, this is not so noticeable, because the insulation will partially hide the unevenness of the facade.
The next factor that complicates the alignment of walls is the presence of log outcrops (they are also remnants, they are also corners).
If in the case, for example, frame house, we first set the corners, and then align all the other frame posts with the corners, but here we simply do not have outer corners due to the protruding ends of the logs.
The only way to level a wall in a vertical plane is to align the outer boards on the wall, secure them and push off from them as a base.
Bypassing siding of log outcrops (corners, remnants)
Another difficulty with cladding a log house lies in these very remnants of logs: in order to make warm corner with a strong lock, the logs are adjusted to each other in a special way.
There are about 30 forms and names of these castles, and we are not so well versed in log construction to consider them all. And there are construction methods in which there are no corners:
But most castles have one obvious property in common: when the logs are placed one on top of the other, cross-shaped joints are formed at the corners of the house, which cannot be sawed off to level the facade.
Such angles complicate siding and lead to higher prices for materials and work.
To get around the corners of a log house when installing siding, we use three methods.
Method number 1. Box on the corners
With this method, we make a box in which the takeout is completely hidden.
In this case we use:
- external on the side of the wall;
- external on the corner of the box.
It turns out that for such a bypass we will need three external and two internal corners on every corner of the house.
Many customers do not like this method, because the house becomes bulky in appearance.
Method number 2. Walking along the surface of the log
In this case, we go around all the outlets, as if covering them with siding from the outside.
For one corner we need:
- internal angle between the wall and the extension;
- external from the wall side;
- external from the corner side;
- internal between perpendicular extensions;
- external on the second extension from the corner side;
- external from the side of the second wall;
- internal between the second extension and the second wall.
This bypass method is the most material-intensive, but it has its advantages.
For example, a house sheathed in this way retains an appearance close to the original: the cross-shaped corners are preserved.
In addition, this covering allows you to make the stems less bulky and conspicuous.
Method No. 3. Preserving raw corners
In some cases, customers ask to preserve the stem without covering it with siding.
We approach the corner along the wall and finish the siding with J-profile. The stems are left as they were, and the customer usually paints them in a color that matches the color of the panels or roofing.
The disadvantage of this approach is that the corners of the log house continue to be exposed to environment, and they are not protected by vinyl.
Another disadvantage is that the corner remains cold, and if the walls are insulated, then heat will flow away there.
But from the point of view of material consumption, this method is the most economical.
Method number 4. Sheathing "flat"
If the ends of the logs do not stick out very much, then sometimes they can be hidden with a frame so that from the outside it will not be clear whether there were corners or not.
In this case, after the cladding, the house looks as usual: no boxes or leftovers.
Insulation of a log house under siding
If a log house is insulated during finishing, then the “pie” of this insulation is no different from the standard “pie” that we use on other houses.
First, the log house is covered with a vapor barrier, and it is mounted closely, enveloping each crown.
Then hangers are mounted on the vapor barrier, on which the frame will be attached.
After this, insulation is placed on the hangers, which is then pressed against the first layer of the frame.
In some cases, the customer believes that without a vapor barrier the house will “breathe” better. People who read construction forums, where users of varying degrees of sophistication share tips, especially often think this way.
We have nothing against sharing construction experience, but we ask you to take into account that anyone can write an intelligent and confident post on the forum: a professional with 20 years of experience, or just a person who does not understand anything about construction , but likes to give advice.
And you won't be able to distinguish one from the other. So be careful and listen to those who are responsible for their recommendations with money.
In addition to insulating walls, remember that heat leaks through corners and openings: windows and doors. And, of course, through the roof or ceiling in a cold attic.
So, even insulated walls do not always guarantee that the house will become warmer. Heat is like water, it flows away where there is less resistance, remember?
And if you decide to insulate a log house under the siding, approach this task comprehensively. Better yet, turn to professionals.
That's all.
When constructing a new building or during the renovation of an old facade, the question arises about its further decoration. The finishing of the external walls of the house is carried out using various building materials. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should be taken into account when choosing. Installation technologies differ greatly. In addition to its decorative function, a well-installed cladding helps to increase the service life of the entire building. A wide variety of finishing options allows you to decorate the building beautifully, in the desired style. The combined method of façade design is shown in the following photograph.
Functions of facade finishing
External wall decoration is necessary work, but not easy to create spectacular decoration facade. The use of various facing coatings makes it possible to achieve effects that improve the appearance of a building when improving its appearance. performance characteristics and living conditions inside the building. The outer cladding of a structure, when chosen correctly, allows you to:
- ensure protection of the walls of the structure from the destructive effects of factors external environment: moisture, temperature fluctuations;
- improve (in most cases) the level of thermal insulation of the structure, which significantly saves money on heating;
- create an additional soundproofing layer that prevents external noise from entering the home, which is especially important when located nearby noisy neighbors, motorways;
- decorate the house efficiently and beautifully;
- increase the fire safety level of wooden buildings;
- support natural circulation steam and air.
Insulation of the facade allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the summer without the use of air conditioning systems.
The achieved diversity in design is incalculable. One example of harmonious decoration is shown in the photo below.
It is easier to properly clad a house and maintain the functional state of the created cladding than to repair load-bearing structures. Decoration is one of the main tasks when arranging a facade.
Cladding methods
Facade work places increased demands on finishing materials. Despite their wide variety used for wall cladding, there are 2 groups. They are presented below in the table.
Under wet facades understand a set of materials whose installation technology requires the use of water-mixed plaster solutions and adhesives. This is the largest group. The peculiarity of such decorative coatings is their integrity with load-bearing structures.
Dry facades are installed on a pre-assembled frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. In this case, no binding solutions are used. This option is considered easy to install and maintain. The ventilated facade made of siding is shown in the following photograph.
Decorating the walls of the house different types requires different technological approaches. Wet and dry options have their own advantages and disadvantages, determined not only by the installation method, but, first of all, by the material used. In practice, a combination of cladding coatings is often found, which gives originality and uniqueness. The choice of how to decorate the outside of a building is very large.
Plastering and painting
Among the “wet” methods of finishing the outside walls of a house, a popular option is plaster for bases made of brick, monolith, cinder block, and aerated concrete. It is applied directly to the rough surface, or on top of the layer. It is also common to use it for interior decoration, but the composition is different. Facade varieties widely used in rooms with high level humidity.
The traditional option is mixtures based on sand and cement. All greater distribution receive new compositions:
- silicate;
- acrylic;
- polymer;
- silicone.
For external work, only moisture-resistant mixtures are used. Compositions based on gypsum or clay are not suitable.
Based on the appearance it creates on the finished surface, plaster is divided into textured and smooth.
The first one is well suited for both professionals and beginners, because it makes it easier to hide minor flaws.
Creating a smooth facade for subsequent painting is a complex, highly skilled job.
The main advantages are the following:
- relative cheapness compared to other materials used to decorate the exterior walls of buildings;
- a wide variety of colors, application options (created textures, patterns) allows you to implement various design solutions;
- the simplest design methods are available to beginners in construction;
- combines well with other finishing coatings;
- plaster solutions are easily applied to the insulation.
The disadvantages are:
- relatively short operating time (about 20 years) compared to analogues;
- Often after repairs its traces remain visible.
The technology of working with decorative compositions differs in obtaining different effects on the surface. The result of finishing (“bark beetle”) is shown in the photograph below.
Using paint, decorate surfaces from various materials: plastered, brick, stone, wooden, panel. The created layer protects from moisture, dust, and solar radiation.
When applying paint, the surface is first prepared accordingly.
For coloring, compositions are used based on the type of base.
The created plaster layer closes cracks, joints, and levels the surface. At the same time, sound and heat insulation is improved. The coating protects the base well.
Using bricks for decoration
Brick is an expensive material for exterior finishing. The job also requires certain skills. A beginner will not be able to do high-quality veneering. The work process itself is highly labor-intensive.
An attractive point when using brick is the durability and reliability of the created finish. In this case, it is possible between load-bearing walls and lay insulation over the cladding. And his flammability, environmental safety do not play a special role.
Bricks are made from different components. As a result, the final product is distinguished by its characteristics and appearance. The following types of bricks are laid out as facings:
- : produced by strong pressing without firing, has high strength, resistance to low temperatures, ease of processing, but has poor thermal insulation properties;
- ceramic: has good thermal insulation properties, durable, attractive in appearance;
- clinker: characterized by a wide variety of textures and colors.
The photo above shows a brick-clad house.
When using bricks, you should take into account its significant weight. The foundation must be able to withstand the load created by such a decorative coating.
Finishing with natural and artificial stone
Decorating walls with natural materials is evidence of success and prosperity, a demonstration of taste. The formed coating has a number of the following advantages:
- long service life;
- high strength;
- spectacular appearance;
- processing with modern compounds gives excellent performance characteristics even to inexpensive (porous) varieties of natural stone.
The material is used for both full and partial finishing (for example, plinth, corners). Pre-treated stones are used, or natural form. Working with the latter with your own hands is more problematic.
The following types of stone are available on the market:
- granite;
- marble;
- sandstone;
- calcareous tuff (travertine);
- slate;
- limestone;
- quartzite;
- gabbro;
- syenite;
- labradorite and others.
Each of them differs in price and properties.
The main disadvantages of using natural stone:
- heavy weight of the cladding;
- high cost of material and installation;
- labor intensity, complexity of work.
The option of incompletely finishing a house with natural materials is not shown in the photo above.
Artificial finishing stone- This good option for finishing the walls of the house outside. In its properties it is close to natural material. Its appearance is also aesthetic. When using it, less costs will be required than when using a natural analogue.
Choice of textures and colors of natural and artificial stone large, which allows you to give buildings a magnificent, unique look. However, “fake” analogues are more affordable.
Facing tiles
When choosing decor, this option deserves special attention. Various types materials can be fixed dry or wet. Common varieties are porcelain tiles and clinker tiles. They perfectly imitate natural analogues.
The advantages of the material are as follows:
- light weight;
- fire resistance
- durability;
- high strength;
- compared to natural stone and brick - lower price;
- ease of replacement during repairs;
- large selection of colors;
- resistance to frost.
The decoration of the building with porcelain stoneware is shown in the photo above.
Cladding tiles are a good option for covering a building according to affordable price, while obtaining a high quality coating.
Decoration with facade panels
Cladding the walls of a house with facades, which are made from various materials, is a very broad category. It includes the following products:
- siding;
- thermal panels;
- sandwich panels.
Also applicable the following types panels:
- glass;
- vinyl;
- metal;
- polyurethane foam;
- fiber cement.
Examples of the appearance of the panels are presented in the photo below.
The varieties differ in their characteristics, structure and dimensions. The advantages and disadvantages of all panels are different.
Among all the options, siding is popular. Its advantages are:
- attractive appearance;
- resistance to temperature fluctuations and biological effects, corrosion;
- ease of installation and maintenance;
- long service life;
- mechanical strength;
- Not high price.
Siding is installed using a frame method. Insulation is often additionally used. The disadvantage is poor compatibility with other types of design.
Facade panels are widely used in exterior finishing of buildings due to their affordability and relative ease of installation.
Wooden lining in the exterior of the house
This is finishing natural material for the external walls of the house. Cladding with boards allows you to give the building an attractive appearance, insulate it and further reduce external noise.
Lining has all the disadvantages of wood. Additional processing is definitely required.
Often boards are made from:
- pine trees;
- oak;
- ash;
- alders;
- linden trees
For the facade it is better to use moisture-resistant wood species. They have a higher price, but at the same time they are durable. Lately, imitation logs and eurolining have been gaining popularity.
Recommendations for choosing material and carrying out work
To decorate the walls of a house outside, you can choose from the existing variety of materials that are affordable and have suitable properties. Plastering and painting remain the cheapest and most accessible types of decoration. They also combine well with other types of decorative coatings.
The photo above contains an image of a successful combination of plaster with artificial stone.
Materials popular for exterior wall decoration have noise and heat insulation characteristics and are resistant to fire to varying degrees, so they are selected for a specific type of base and operating conditions. For example, wooden structures should be additionally protected from fires, but their thermal insulation performance is much higher than that of concrete or brick, so the insulating properties of the cladding are less important than its fire resistance.
When planning to replace the casing, it is important right choice finishing material for specific conditions. It is also recommended to take it into account harmonious combination with the surrounding environment and structural elements that will not be affected by repair work.
When choosing heavy facing material calculation will be required bearing capacity structures, mainly the foundation.
- Exterior work should not begin before the installation of window and door units;
- before carrying out decorating activities, it is better to wait some time so that the building shrinks (one year) and the created coating does not deform;
- after this process, it is necessary to check the condition of the walls with a level, and, if necessary, perform alignment;
- in most cases, installation of decorative coating can be carried out all year round, but when using some materials for finishing, work should be carried out at a temperature ranging from +5 to +25 degrees to avoid compression and expansion of the cladding material;
- it is necessary to take into account the permissibility of additional load on the base.
The correct choice of material for cladding and adherence to the technology of its installation are an integral guarantee of obtaining a high-quality result. To save money cash It is recommended to purchase the type of cladding that you can install with your own hands if you have the experience and skills.
External wall decoration requires a serious approach. Not only does it depend on her appearance building, but also to a certain extent its durability. Saturation of modern construction market allows you to select a facing coating for various types of bases. When choosing a design method, the ability to independently install materials plays an important role. Some of them can be installed quite easily with your own hands, while the use of others requires the involvement of professional builders.
Popular façade design options are shown in the following video.
The video below contains examples of beautiful and practical decoration houses.
The limiting factor in the spread of certain types of coatings, which also have a number of positive characteristics, their high price stands out. But any of the considered cladding options when high-quality implementation finishing work allows you to beautifully decorate your home.