A real find for gardeners is the Katevbinsky rhododendron. Evergreen, tall, large-leaved, profusely and beautifully flowering and at the same time very winter-hardy. Suitable for both beginners and experienced gardeners and collectors. Rhododendron Katevbinsky will create a green landscape in both summer and winter.
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Description. Rhododendron Katevbinsky, or Katevbinsky ( Rhododendron catawbiense) is an evergreen deciduous shrub up to 4 m high and the same width (in cultivation, often up to 2 m). It gives growth of 10-20 cm per year, which is more than usual for rhododendrons, and by the age of 10 it reaches 1.5 m. Moreover, plants grown from seeds can live for more than 100 years. Young shoots are pubescent, and after ripening they “moult.” The leaves are lanceolate-oval, up to 15 cm long and 5 cm wide, dark green above and pale green below, shiny, without pubescence. Flower buds are yellow-green, larger than leaf buds. The flowers are collected in bunches of up to 20 pieces, forming inflorescences up to 20 cm. The color of the flowers varies greatly depending on the variety.
Variety "Album" with white flowers (each up to 6 cm in diameter) and greenish specks on the petals. A very fast-growing variety, at 10 years it can reach 2 m. In the middle zone, the variety is very winter-hardy, and even the seeds ripen. Therefore, be interested in locally grown seedlings.
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Variety "Burso" (" Boursault) like “Album” grows just as quickly and winters well. The flowers are purple with red-brown speckles, up to 7 cm, 11-17 pieces per inflorescence, like “Album”, which is odorless.
The most common variety is “Grandiflorum”, or “Grandiflora” (which means “large-flowered”). The flowers are lilac-lilac with yellow or red specks, 12-19 pieces each, odorless. Also fast growing and large bush, very winter-hardy in the middle zone.
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The variety "Roseum elegans" is the most popular red-flowering variety. The flowers are purple-red or burgundy-pink. Like other varieties, the flower has 10 stamens. It is not inferior to others in winter hardiness and size. The genes of Katevbinsky rhododendron are present in almost all varieties of winter-hardy hybrid forms - this is an indispensable plant for breeding.
There are many other colors of petals in different varieties. Taking into account the evergreen nature of the plant, it is possible to create a multi-colored palette garden landscape. After all, this species blooms from late May - June to July, usually 3-4 weeks. The seeds are small (0.5 mm) in boxes; in the central zone they ripen in October - November.
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Growing conditions, planting and care. Katevba rhododendron is one of the most winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons, and perhaps even the most winter-hardy. Indeed, in addition to high frost resistance (up to -32°C, the buds can withstand about -25°C), this species tolerates thaws well, freezing of the soil in winters with little snow (up to -18°C), and withstands the scorching sun a little worse in the winter-spring period. The best growth temperatures for it will be in the range from -15°C to +25°C. This is all explained by its mountain origins from the east. North America, where it settles in forests and meadows, being quite flexible both in the open sun and in dense shade. In the middle zone, for the winter, rhododendron should be mulched with straw, bark or sawdust, and covered with agrofibre in 1-2 layers (so that the leaves do not become steamed). And when snow falls, pour it under the branches without compacting it. After all, snow will stick to the leaves and the branches may break off, especially if the agrofibre lies freely on the branches without support from the frame. Snow piled under the branches will give them some support. Agrofibre will also save leaves from sunburn. Even if the frosts in your area are mild and there is almost no snow, it is still worth covering the evergreen rhododendron with agrofibre (if it grows in the open sun). For planting, you need to choose a place without wind, especially in winter.
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Rhododendron develops best in light partial shade from pine trees. Although shade-tolerant, it hardly blooms in deep shade, and in open sun early spring The leaves usually burn. Sometimes one branch can dry out all the leaves, but it is not worth pruning it until mid-summer, since dormant buds may bloom in June. After pruning, rhododendron grows weakly and does not bloom for a long time, therefore, to form a dense branched bush, and as a result of lush flowering, experienced gardeners simply pinch the apical leaf bud.
Rhododendron Katevbinsky prefers a humid temperate climate, so it feels at home in the Baltic states. It is not very picky about soils, as long as it is not calcareous, dry sands or cold clays.
After all, it cannot tolerate dryness, stagnation of water or flooding of roots. The best soils will be heather (top layer of lingonberry-blueberry meadows) or a mixture of peat with sand and forest litter (needles, rotten stumps and logs) in a 1:1:1 ratio. You need to fertilize the rhododendron bush with the same acidic soil mixtures at least once a year - just scatter the fertilizer around the tree trunk without digging (digging damages the surface roots).
It is better to plant rhododendrons in the spring in cloudy weather in moist soil, and soak the root ball of earth in water for 1 minute. But containerized seedlings can be planted in the summer after flowering, with mandatory protection from direct sun rays And frequent watering. In dry climates, rhododendrons need sprinkling. And in late autumn it’s good to water the ground, since even in the middle zone evergreen rhododendrons suffer in winter from moisture evaporation through the leaves and may look lethargic in spring. If this occurs, simply water the bush well until the leaves acquire the necessary elasticity. As protection from winter dryness and frost, evergreen rhododendrons curl their leaves into a tube and lower them down; in the spring, after the ground thaws, the plant straightens them again.
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To plant rhododendron, it is necessary to dig a planting hole of a shallow depth of up to 0.5 m, but with a sufficient width (about 0.8 m) so that the surface roots have room to develop. After all, it is the limited planting pit (especially in loamy soils) that is the main reason for the withering of an already mature plant.
Evergreen rhododendrons look good in a garden with azaleas, hollies, and boxwoods against a background of conifers.
Therefore, if you want to decorate your garden for the joy of the whole family and the curiosity of neighbors and guests, plant different varieties rhododendron katevbinsky. After all, this is not only lush flowering and winter greenery, but also the high status of the owner-gardener, which is emphasized from afar.
They are practically in no way inferior.
Main Features
There are only two conventional groups of rhododendrons: evergreen and deciduous. In nature, both of these types grow in areas with a fairly mild climate - mainly in the humid highlands of Asia and North America. Therefore, for growing in middle lane Only specially bred frost-resistant varieties are suitable for Russia. Heat-loving rhododendrons cannot tolerate Russian winters at all, freezing out even when carefully covered for the winter.
The best varieties for Russia
Very often, domestic summer residents grow evergreen rhododendrons on their plots. Frost-resistant varieties of this variety are actually extremely popular. After all, they can decorate the yard or garden all year round. Reviews especially praise evergreen species and varieties:
Katevbinsky (Rh. catawbiense);
Beautifully flowering deciduous rhododendrons can also be a good decoration for a suburban area. Frost-resistant varieties can be grown in different ways in Moscow, the Urals, Siberia, etc. But the most popular among Russian summer residents are the deciduous rhododendrons of the Northern Light group, such, for example, as:
Rosy Lights, etc.
Also on summer cottages Japanese rhododendrons (Rh. japonicum) and yellow rhododendrons (Rh. Luteum) are very often grown.
Katevba rhododendron
This species, according to the majority of Russian summer residents, is the most beautiful rhododendrons. Frost-resistant varieties of the Katevba group are quite tall shrubs (2-4 meters) with a dense semicircular crown. The leaves of plants in this series are slightly elongated and large (up to 15 cm in length and 5 cm in width). Katevba rhododendrons bloom from May to June. And it's actually very beautiful. Quite a lot of them large flowers collected in lush inflorescences and are shaped like bells. The shade of the petals may vary depending on the variety. Both violet and purple or white flowers of this variety are very beautiful.
Rhododendrons Helliki variety
A compact crown and lush flowering are what distinguish these rhododendrons. Frost-resistant varieties are often slightly inferior in effectiveness to heat-loving varieties. To the Helliki rhododendron, which can withstand the most low temperatures, this is completely irrelevant. The leaves of this variety are very beautiful - they are distinguished by their bright green, and on the underside they have an edge. Helliki blooms in mid-June. The buds of this variety are also heavily pubescent, and therefore look “felt”. The flowers of this variety are collected in spectacular groups, have a funnel shape and a beautiful purple-red hue with orange specks. One of the features of caring for Helliki rhododendrons is the need to remove all dried brushes. If the owners of the site for some reason forget to do this, the plant may not bloom next year.
Rhododendrons Mikkeli
This Finnish hybrid combines two qualities that are important for any ornamental plant - spectacular appearance and unpretentiousness. Its buds are red, and the flowers have a pale pink tint, gradually changing to white. Old leaves of the variety are pubescent. The peculiarity of this hybrid is not too abundant flowering young bushes.
Varieties of the Northern Light series
This group of rhododendrons includes several complex American hybrids. The title of the series is translated into Russian as “northern lights”. Among the advantages of these varieties, Russian summer residents include, first of all, the ability to easily withstand frosts even down to -35... -40 degrees. Most Northern Light hybrids bloom from late May to the second half of June. Their flowers are not too large, but very fragrant. The color of the petals can be cream, white, pink, golden or lilac. The main features of the Northern Light group hybrids include rapid development, the ability to bloom at a very early age, and shade tolerance.
Japanese rhododendrons
The best winter-hardy varieties of rhododendrons that we discussed above are very beautiful. But in appearance they are more or less similar to each other. Japanese rhododendrons are in this group ornamental plants stand apart. They look truly luxurious. Basic distinctive feature Japanese rhododendron is very branchy. This plant blooms from May to June. The bush can reach a height of 1.5 meters in nature, and no more than 80 cm in a garden plot. The leaves of the Japanese rhododendron are unusually beautiful - oblong, bright green. Their upper side is covered with hairs. The flowers of all varieties of Japanese rhododendron are very large (6-8 cm), collected in lush clusters and are distinguished by bright colors. The shade of the petals can vary from deep red to cream.
Rhododendron yellow
This species is also called Pontian azalea. According to reviews, on personal plots Yellow rhododendron should only be grown by summer residents who do not have small children or pets. The fact is that this variety is a poisonous plant. To the main distinctive features This group of varieties includes a spreading crown and a pleasant aroma of flowers. Yellow rhododendron can reach two meters in height. Appearance He's very effective. Large fragrant flowers are collected in thick clusters, and the leaves have a rich, bright green hue.
How to choose a place on the site
These are the rhododendrons grown in most cases by domestic gardeners. Frost-resistant varieties, the price of which is quite high (about 500-700 rubles per seedling), however, require careful care. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plants. Most rhododendrons are sun-loving plants. However, with constant exposure to UV rays, burns may appear on their leaves. According to reviews, the best solution will plant the rhododendron close to some tree, so that it is slightly shaded. Strong wind these plants do not tolerate. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant them on hillocks, in places unprotected from the constant movement of air masses.
What should the soil be like?
The best soil composition for rhododendrons is considered to be:
leaf soil- 3 parts;
soil from under coniferous tree- 1 part;
high-moor peat - 2 parts.
High level of occurrence groundwater- this is something that these plants really don’t like. Frost-resistant varieties grown in Russia feel much better in well-drained areas.
How to plant
Not too deep holes are made for rhododendrons on the site - about 50 cm (without drainage). Before planting, the roots of the plants must be soaked in water for 24 hours along with a lump of earth. The distance between bushes is maintained depending on the height of the variety. For low-growing rhododendrons this figure is 50 cm, medium - 1.2 m, high - up to 2 m.
Plants are planted so that their root collar is located on the surface. If it is buried, the owners of the suburban area will not see flowers from the bush in the future.
The soil under the planted rhododendron should first be thoroughly watered. Then the tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust, moss or peat in a layer at least 5 cm thick.
How to water and fertilize correctly
Winter-hardy rhododendrons, the types and varieties of which we discussed above, will delight their owners beautiful flowering, of course, only with proper care. Summer residents recommend feeding these plants twice a year: after the snow melts and after flowering. Slurry is usually used as fertilizer (0.5 liters per 10 liters of water). Water rhododendrons frequently, preventing the soil in the tree trunk from drying out.
Frost-resistant rhododendrons and wintering bushes in the Russian climate
In autumn, it is advisable to bend plant branches to the ground. They are subsequently covered with snow. You can also make huts from spruce branches over the bushes. However, these procedures are not at all mandatory. All frost-resistant varieties They endure Russian winters even without shelter.
Conclusion
Thus, we have examined in detail what kind of plant this is - rhododendrons (frost-resistant varieties, price, cultivation are now known to you). As you can see, these beautiful originals require constant care. For those summer residents who do not have time to visit regularly suburban area, reviews do not recommend planting rhododendrons. Without regular watering, these plants will simply dry out quickly, and money on seedlings will be wasted.
Azalea Katevbinskaya is an evergreen shrub, one of the most vigorous and winter-hardy varieties. It grows 6-8 cm per year, and an adult plant can reach 2-3 meters in height. The dark green, leathery and shiny leaves are also impressive in size - they grow up to 15 cm long. The trunk may be dark gray or have a brown tint.
The flowers look like wide (6 cm) bells of lilac or lilac color with a yellow-red pattern. There can be up to 20 of them in an inflorescence. Hybrid forms of Katevbinskaya azalea boast crimson, purple, red, white, pink and blue flowers.
The root system of azalea is shallow - 30-40 cm. It develops mainly in litter and humus.
Types of rhododendron katevbinsky
— Album (Catawbiensealbum)
The pink buds of this species are funnel-shaped and marked with white, green or brown spots. Like all azalea flowers, they are odorless, but they are striking in the density of their inflorescences (13-20 flowers each).
— Grandiflorum (Catawbiense Grandiflorum)
One of the most common and reliable varieties. Its flowers, which bloom in June, are light purple in color with greenish spots, and the upper petals are decorated with a golden brown pattern. The bush grows thick and powerful; a spreading crown of compact inflorescences crowns a trunk with dark gray bark.
— Bourso (CatawbienseBoursault)
The dark gray trunk of this rhododendron is crowned with a spreading crown of dense dark purple inflorescences with greenish-yellow spots. The height of the bush usually reaches one and a half to two meters.
— White (CatawbienseCunninghamWhite)
Numerous white flowers of this species are decorated with yellow-green spots. It happens that it blooms twice during the summer. In case of freezing in winter, it is easily restored.
Rhododendron katevbinsky grandiflorum - planting and care
- landing
The optimal time for planting is spring. When purchasing seedlings, it is important to do right choice: from self-rooted and grafted seedlings, you need to choose the first option.
Azalea - light-loving plant, however, you should not choose for her open place- the plant can burn from direct rays of the sun. It's better to put him in in a place protected from the wind in partial shade, for example, under the canopy of trees. Rhododendron loves water very much, so before planting it will be useful place the seedling in water.
At the site chosen for planting, you need to dig a hole 50 x 70 cm. The root system does not need to be buried- it should rise 2-4 cm above the soil level, taking into account subsequent subsidence.
Mandatory is drainage layer made of broken brick and sand, it should be at least 20 cm.
- soil
Rhododendron loves fertile, fresh, slightly acidic or acidic soil. It should be loose, enriched with organic matter. Peat and leaf soil mixed with sand and rotted pine sawdust are suitable. Required good drainage and annual mulching with peat and pine needles. They will retain moisture and protect the roots from weeds and damage.
- watering
Azalea does not tolerate heat and dry weather well, so in summer abundant and deep watering is necessary. However, do not allow waterlogging and stagnation of water - the plant cannot tolerate it either. Watering with soft, acidified water is recommended twice or thrice a week.
— fertilizer/feeding
It is recommended to feed young shrubs early spring and after flowering. It is enough to fertilize adult plants once a season. The dose of fertilizing is one bucket per root and includes rotted cow manure and decomposed compost.
Has a beneficial effect on plant health and mineral fertilizers with NPK in proportion 2:1:1.5(ammonium sulfate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate) - on square meter It is supposed to be 30-40 g. It should also be applied in the spring; it is better to give it to young plants in liquid form.
After flowering, you can fertilize with a mixture of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (2:1) - this will have a good effect on the process of bud formation next year. However, it is better not to postpone fertilizing until the end of summer and later, otherwise new shoots will grow that will freeze in winter.
Do not use fertilizers with lime, chlorine, and do not overdo it with superphosphate.
- flowering
Rhododendron blooms in late May - early June and delights gardeners with bright colors for 3-4 weeks. Diameter of lush crown at proper care behind the plant, can reach two meters. After flowering, all wilted inflorescences must be removed so that they do not interfere with the formation of new buds.
- pruning
Trimming is not mandatory procedure- it can delay growth and flowering. However, if you want to make the rhododendron crown neat, you can trim it in May. You can replace pruning with pinching.
- methods of reproduction
Katevbinsky rhododendron is grown from seeds that ripen at the end of October. They adapt well to local conditions, and the color of the resulting plants will vary. This way you can get multi-colored flowers and make the flower bed as diverse as possible.
You can also propagate rhododendron with semi-lignified shoots 7-9 cm long. They are cut in mid-spring and mid-summer, so that the cut is oblique. The 3 bottom leaves need to be removed, leaving a tip of 0.5 cm, the remaining leaves need to be cut in half.
The shoots will be planted in a substrate of 3 cm of coarse sand and 10 cm of coniferous soil. A drainage layer of 2-3 cm will consist of pebbles and broken shards.
Wintering rhododendron
- autumn care - preparation for winter
At the end of summer, it will be useful to add colloidal sulfur to the soil: it will slow down the growth of fungi and acidify the soil. It is also recommended to treat rhododendron with a fungicide against fungi. Continue watering until the ground freezes completely.
- how to cover a rhododendron
In winter, it is necessary to protect evergreen shrubs from the sun and wind. For this, shelters made of sticks, boards or boxes are sufficient. It all needs to be wrapped on top non-woven material. If the rhododendron grows in the shade, you can take a chance and leave it without shelter for the winter.
Don’t forget about the mulching layer of pine needles and peat - it will reduce the depth of freezing of the ground
Diseases and pests
Rhododendrons growing on open areas, as well as depleted plants that are not cared for properly.
Because of excessive watering may develop fungal diseases
. Infected plants need to be periodically spray with a solution of Bordeaux mixture. Diseased specimens and stumps will have to be burned to destroy foci of fungal spread.
Insect pests include: furrowed weevil, spider mite, acacia false scale, tobacco thrips, rhododendron mite, greenhouse and rhododendron whiteflies. They will help you fight them special insect repellents. Affected leaves must be plucked and burned, shoots must be cut off.
Also shrubs are attacked by gastropods(they need to be collected by hand, and in order to prevent them, use molluscicides) and crows pecking at the buds (bird scarers can help).
A gardener rarely has difficulty growing multi-flowered azaleas. She is quite unpretentious, but very impressive and can become a real queen of any flower garden.
Photo
See more photos of Katevbinskaya azalea below: 
There is an opinion that this wonderful shrub can only be grown experienced gardeners. And indeed, the plant is quite capricious and requires a lot of attention. And yet, it is possible to “tame” a beautiful rhododendron if you know all its features and care requirements.
Homeland of the plant
Rhododendron Katevbinsky or in Latin Rhododéndron catawbiense is a representative of the Heather family and, perhaps, most popular type from evergreen rhododendrons.
Homeland of the plant - eastern part North America, where the shrub grows on mountain slopes, forming vast flowering thickets in large open spaces or under the canopy of tall trees.
Rhododendron Katevbinsky settled in Europe in 1809, where it was introduced as the very first of the entire genus of Rhododendrons. Thanks to extraordinary decorativeness and excellent winter hardiness, it has gained enormous popularity not only in all European countries, but also in Russia.
Plant actively used for breeding new varieties of rhododendrons that are not afraid of harsh winters. Based on the Katevbinsky rhododendron, varieties common in Russian latitudes such as “Grandiflorum”, “Roseum Eleganсe”, “Album novum” were bred.
Bloom
Rhododendron Grandiflorum (Katevbinsky) is a large-leaved shrub with a lush, rounded crown, reaching 4 meters in height.
Plant is a long-liver and can delight a gardener for up to 100 years. The elongated ellipsoidal leaves of the plant are very decorative. They are painted dark green and have a glossy sheen.
However, Katevbinsky rhododendron is most valued for luxurious bloom which earned him the title of "rose tree". The flowers of the shrub are shaped like large bells up to 6 cm in circumference. They are collected in lush racemose inflorescences, in which up to 20 such bells can be counted.
The color palette of Katevbinsky rhododendron is varied. You can find white, light purple, violet-red, lilac-purple and lilac-purple shades flowers.
You can see more details about this shrub in the photo below:
The shrub begins to bloom in May. Flowering continues for a month, after which the plant bears fruits in the form of seed pods. The seeds ripen in October.
Landing Features
Rhododendron Katevbinsky comes to the gardener's plot most often in the form of a seedling purchased at a garden center.
At the same time for successful cultivation For this shrub, the correct choice of seedling is important. There are often specimens on sale brought from Holland and France with a warm climate. Such seedlings are unlikely to take root in our climate zone.
For Russian latitudes, it is advisable to choose rhododendrons grown in similar conditions, for example, in nurseries in Finland.
You should not purchase rooted cuttings or adult bushes of the plant.
It is best to opt for a two to three year old seedling with a root system placed in a container. Before purchasing, the bush must be examined. A healthy rhododendron leaves have an even green color without signs of chlorosis or necrosis.
Plant a plant possible in the spring, as well as during the summer until the end of August. You should choose a place with a lot of diffused light. An area in partial shade under a tall, spreading tree is ideal. The bush should grow at a distance of no closer than 2 meters from the tree.
It is not advisable for rhododendron to be located next to trees that have surface root system, - they will oppress rhododendron. The best neighbors of the shrub are spruce, pine and larch. It is necessary that the site be protected from cold winds.
For rhododendron, it is very important what kind of soil the planting hole will be filled with.
Like all heathers, it needs loose, peaty and humus-rich soil with an acidity pH of 4.5 to 5.5. To prepare it, it is best to take brown high-moor peat with suitable acidity. Three parts of peat should be mixed with two parts of pine litter and one part of coarse sand.
If necessary, coniferous litter is replaced with rotted leaves or rotted (not fresh!) sawdust obtained from coniferous trees. This soil composition has the correct acid reaction, breathability, moisture absorption and does not caking. You can also use commercial rhododendron substrate.
Rhododendron Katevbinsky has compact root system, therefore it does not require a large planting hole. Her optimal sizes- 60 cm in diameter and 40 cm in depth. It is recommended to prepare the pit a couple of weeks before planting. Such a pit requires about 8 buckets of fertile soil. It is thoroughly mixed, the planting hole is filled with it and compacted.
Before boarding The root ball of the seedling is lowered into a bucket of water, holding it there until the bubbles stop coming out.
Upon landing the root collar is not buried. The bush should be planted at the same depth as it grew in the container. At the end of the work, the soil is well watered and mulched. pine needles or chopped wood chips. When planting, you should handle the root ball very carefully and try not to damage the mycelium living on the roots, which provides the plant with adequate nutrition.
Care requirements
Like any plant, Katevbinsky rhododendron (grandiflorum) needs regular watering and weeding.
At the same time, you should never loosen the soil - the bush exists in close symbiosis with mushrooms, and careless loosening can damage the mycelium, which is so useful for the plant.
For the same reason, weeds around rhododendron should be removed manually. If weeds with very long roots have grown under the bush, special care is required to remove it from the ground. You can also use a brush to coat the weeds with herbicide to kill them.
Rhododendron is very afraid of the soil drying out, so watering should be regular and quite plentiful - in warm summers, once a week is optimal.
Each large bush will take about 50 liters. When watering, it is important to take breaks, waiting until the next portion of water is absorbed into the ground. The most preferable option is early morning or evening watering with rainwater.
Hard water, for example, from a well, can be softened and acidified by adding a little acetic acid (1%) to it at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water or citric acid- 3-4 g per 10-liter bucket. Another, simplest method of acidification is the use of colloidal sulfur. For a young rhododendron, it is enough to pour a package weighing 40 g into the tree trunk circle 1-2 times a year, and for a shrub at least 1 m high - 2 packages.
Another way to soften water is to add brown peat to it. The mixture is thoroughly stirred and allowed to settle for 24 hours. During hot weather and drought, sprinkling is very useful for rhododendron. An important condition is that ash, dolomite, lime and other soil-alkalinizing substances should not get into the root system feeding zone.
In the first year that the rhododendron has settled in a new place, no feeding is carried out. But already from the second year of life it is possible to apply annually in the spring with specialized long-acting fertilizer "Pokon".
When using conventional fertilizers, the plant is fed as follows: ammonium nitrate (10 to 15 g/l) is added in early spring, a mineral complex is added before the buds appear, and potassium sulfate is added in late August, which increases the frost resistance of the bush. Fertilizer must be applied in the form of a solution and in moist soil. Chlorine and calcium should be excluded from fertilizing.
In winter, snow melting, temperature changes and frosts represent certain danger for rhododendron- its bushes can break.
To avoid this, the root circle must be mulched in the winter.
Also, a large bush should be tied up and secured to a support - for example, a hut made of stakes around the bush, wrapped in non-woven material such as spunbond, is perfect.
When snow falls, it is advisable to cover the rhododendron with young snow. If necessary, you can bend its high branches so that they are also “wrapped” in snow. In the spring, after the snow has melted and the ground has thawed, the covering material is removed.
Reproduction
Rhododendron can reproduce in several ways:
- Seeds, which are best sown for seedlings in January. The seeds are sown superficially and germinate in the light at a temperature of about 20 °C. Transfer to open ground- in the spring of the second year of life. The root collar cannot be buried.
- By layering. With this method, a small piece of bark is removed from the branch, after which it is pressed against nutritious and loose soil and secured with a staple. Over the course of a year, a fairly large layer grows. After another year, you can separate it and plant it in a new place.
- By cuttings, which, unfortunately, take too long to take root - it takes from 4 to 6 months.
Pests and diseases
Rhododendrons quite stable to pests and diseases. The most common problem is caused by soil alkalization, from which the leaves become ill with chlorosis - their veins turn yellow.
This condition is easily corrected by timely acidification of the soil. A more serious case is when the plant is damaged by a fungal or viral infection, Why does rhododendron wither?
Here it is important to cut off diseased branches in a timely manner, disinfect the cuts with charcoal or garden pitch, and then water the plant with Trichodermin solution twice or thrice with an interval of 7 or 10 days. In case of serious damage, you can use any systemic fungicide. What if they attack leaf-eating pests, An insecticide like Aktara will come to the rescue.
Conclusion
As we see, rhododendron Katevbinsky is very beautiful bush, which responds to love and care with magnificent flowering and you can be sure of this, by watching the video below. With a little effort and getting used to caring for the plant, you can admire its charming blooms for many years.