Install brick fence Today you can do it yourself at the dacha, having at hand a simple set of ordinary tools, materials and following simple instructions. A brick fence is considered an elite-class structure that has won the trust of many people since ancient times. Advantages brick building: strength, reliability, long service life, resistance to unfavorable factors. It is also time-tested.
Blind fence
Despite the high cost, many owners of private houses prefer to have such a fence on their property because of its excellent aesthetic appearance. At the same time, the material has increased resistance to mechanical stress and extreme weather conditions.
There are many more options for building materials from which you can build a brick fence with your own hands. They all have their supporters, as well as advantages and disadvantages. In any case, such a structure will always look good, providing complete protection of the territory from illegal entry and other external factors.
Calculation and selection of bricks
Today you can build a fence with brick pillars from a variety of building materials. The cost and complexity of the work will depend on this. For such a structure, three types of bricks are most often used:
- standard;
- silicate;
- facing.
Fence with forging elements
Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Continuous fencing
The next step is to determine the height and thickness of the fence. If she will only be in quality decorative element on your territory, then you can make it half a brick thick. Basically, fences are built with a thickness of 1.5 or 2 bricks, and often even 3. The height also depends on the purpose and requirements of the owners, but usually ranges from 0.5 to 3.5 m.
If the fence is sectional, then calculations for consumable materials and solution are carried out first for one section and post.
This figure can then be multiplied by total quantity sections and pillars respectively.
Installation
Brick fences have been serving people for many years as a fence for complete protection, as well as as a decorative structure. They have excellent aesthetic and consumer qualities: strength, reliability, long service life, fire resistance, frost resistance.
Scheme of the strip base device
In addition, they can withstand strong winds and other adverse weather conditions. However, due to the high cost of the material itself and its masonry, combined fences are often built, which are much cheaper.
Basically they are the following types:
- with brick pillars. Quite an attractive option for fans forged products with a combination of stone. Massive brick columns with different architectural forms, are connected by forged decorative grilles of various styles, depending on the preferences of the owner. Such structures usually do not completely cover the area from prying eyes, which may be a disadvantage for some.
- . For this design, build brick fence posts with your own hands. They connect with each other profile pipes, on which corrugated sheeting is mounted. This type of fence is very simple to build and is much cheaper. Corrugated sheeting can be selected in various colors.
- Full brick fences. Classic fences, which can be either end-to-end. For the through type, the masonry of a brick fence is carried out so that in the structure there are through holes. The laying of brick pillars here also varies. Often wiring is made on them, on which.
Drawing of the fence base
Construction activities are carried out in stages: marking the territory, laying the foundation and the masonry process itself.
Formwork
All lines and angles are built as even as possible. The distance of brick posts for a DIY fence depends on the width of the fence and is generally 3–6 m.
Foundation
The foundation for a fence differs from the foundation of a house in that it does not require great depth, and the reinforced frame is made with reinforcement of a smaller diameter. is being built in several stages:
- After marking the area along the cords, a trench 20 cm deep is dug manually or with an excavator. To determine the width, you need to add the width of the brick wall to the two depths of the foundation.
- A drainage layer consisting of gravel and sand is usually added to the trench, which is carefully filled with water and compacted well.
- If there are slopes in the area, formwork should be built from boards according to the height of the structure. In this case, you should carefully monitor the position of the frame: it should be strictly vertical. The height of the base is usually 10–20 cm.
- After this, the bottom of the trench is 3 cm thick with a proportion of 1: 3: 3 cement, crushed stone and sand, respectively.
- As the concrete hardens, install metal frame, consisting of reinforcement connected by wire, since welding is inappropriate here. Then the rest is poured.
- After this, the concrete must be periodically pierced with a metal rod to remove any remaining voids. The prepared base is left for about a week to achieve maximum strength. To protect it from adverse weather, it can be covered with rags. After this, the formwork is removed and the surface of the foundation is covered with waterproofing.
Ready base
Fence laying
For the construction of brick fencing they use cement mortar using single-row masonry. Very popular today decorative masonry, when elements are laid in a special way, resulting in diamond-shaped openings. If the fence is large, then double-row masonry is used.
Masonry with reinforcement
To build a beautiful, functional structure, you need to strictly monitor the order of the masonry and make the correct dressing of the seams:
- First, you need to lay several rows of bricks on the foundation. At the same time, nails are installed in the corners as an order. Next, the mortar is applied to the brick row, and the excess is immediately removed. To ensure high adhesion, the material is pre-moistened with water. It is very important to ensure that the masonry is at the correct level by constantly checking it with a taut twine. In addition, you can build wooden frame and as construction progresses, move the horizontal board higher and higher. You also need to ensure that the solution is laid out in the same volume, and its excess is removed immediately.
At the stage of calculations and design of a future brick fence, each owner is faced with the question of choosing the material for its manufacture. The model range of bricks is quite extensive, and you can choose the most suitable product only by examining in detail the features of each.
What is this article about?
Types of bricks according to manufacturing technology
For the construction of fences, several types of bricks are used, made according to different technologies from various mixtures. They differ in technical specifications:
- Water absorption;
- Strength;
- Frost resistance;
- And also in the variety of textures and types of colors.
Ceramic
The base is red clay, so the products come out in the appropriate shades. Bricks are made by one of 2 methods - semi-dry pressing, plastic molding.
From the technical specifications:
- The tensile strength is quite high - up to 175 kg/cm2;
- Frost resistance - up to 50 cycles;
- Moisture absorption coefficient - 7%.
Clinker
- Strength - up to 500 kg/cm2;
- Moisture absorption - 7%.
Disadvantages - expensive solutions are used for laying. Variety of shades in different batches.
Silicate
Silicate - made from quartz, lime and mineral fillers.
- Strength - up to 250kg/cm2;
- Moisture absorption - can reach 12%;
- Frost resistance - 60 cycles.
The disadvantages are high moisture absorption; shaped molding is not used when creating it.
Hyper-pressed
Hyper-pressed - from the name it is clear what the technology of its manufacture is. The principle lies in such a dense molding of raw materials in which all its components are securely connected to each other. Based on cement, dyes and mineral fillers(limestone, marble, shell rock, screenings, etc.). Such bricks can have a wide range of shaped models.
- Strength - up to 300-400 kg/cm2;
- Water absorption - up to 7%;
- Frost resistance - at least 70 cycles.
Disadvantages - heavy weight of products, high cost.
Characteristics different types bricks may vary depending on the raw materials from which they are made, the amount of certain additives, including dye.
Solid or hollow
Full-bodied Hollow
Among other things, brick blocks are divided into:
- Monolithic;
- Void.
Hollow cladding blocks are most often chosen for cladding pillars; solid cladding blocks are used for the main fence module.
Bricks with decorative properties for cladding pillars
The variety of textures of facing (decorative) bricks allows you to create spectacular design patterns on the facade of fences, lay out columns, pillars, arches and other elements in a variety of architectural styles.
This material has an interesting texture, visually, it is very similar in appearance to natural rock, marble or even wood, and in addition, it can create the effect of aged, rough, glass surfaces.
Rusticated and chipped bricks
For relief bricks, the base is most often a hyper-pressed or silicate product made of limestone, quartz sand, shell rock, cement, as well as marble and dolomite flour with the addition of a coloring pigment.
The texture is created by chipping the outer edge of the finished brick using specialized equipment that resembles a guillotine. This is how blanks for rusticated bricks are made, then, depending on the type finished product, it is subjected to further processing. So, for example, to create the effect of a “torn” surface, additional spoon or butt chips are made on the machine, for waves or random “wrinkles” - longitudinal sections and bevels. Each manufacturer comes up with the name himself, so essentially the same texture can be called differently - torn, chipped, rock, etc.
Wild stone (with inclusions) Rock Marbled
Torn (chipped)
The most popular textures:
- chopped;
- Marble;
- Rock;
- Wild stone;
- Finnish.
Such bricks have all the advantages of the materials from which they are made, and at the same time, all their disadvantages. Individual advantages include light weight, and disadvantages include difficulty in cleaning from contaminants.
Shotcrete
This texture is typical for clinker bricks. To create it, mineral chips are applied to the outer part of the material, and then the product is fired to sinter it to the surface.
However, the facade of the fence usually “collects” a large amount of dust, which is very difficult to clean from shotcrete bricks.
Engobing
The products are covered with a layer of liquid ceramics (1 mm), by pouring or spraying, and then fired. With the help of engobe, bricks are created that imitate ancient masonry, materials with spectacular color transitions.
Engobe coating is very fragile, it is easy to scratch and chip, therefore, although such bricks are used for fences, they are extremely rare.
Figured bricks
Thanks to figured bricks, it is possible to create protruding patterns on the surface of the masonry, create seamless corners, and also create interesting 3-D ornament effects; with the help of some of them, it is easy to lay out columns, arches, and so on.
Radial shaped bricks are often used in the construction of fences. Not only are they attractive in appearance and great for rounded columns, but they are also safe as corner pieces:
- Round or semicircular;
- With corner radius of 55 mm, 155 mm;
- With pin radii of 55 mm.
But you can also find other forms, for example:
- With beveled corners/ribs;
- Trapezoidal;
- Twisted;
- teardrop-shaped;
- Wedge-shaped;
- With sharp edges (angular). They are used for seamless corner separation of the front and side parts of fences, posts, columns and so on.
Shaped bricks can form the basis of the fence facade, or be part of it, in the form of inserts or columns. The building materials market offers products of different shapes, with a variety of textures - embossed, engobed, glazed, shotcrete or plain smooth.
Color solutions
Bricks used for fences are produced in a wide range color scheme, which allows you not only to decorate the fence in your favorite color, but also to create your own unique style, as well as effectively combine it with the landscape design of the site and the buildings on it.
The shade spectrum depends on the type of brick, but in general, you can purchase a product of virtually any color - terracotta, sand, green, red, yellow, pink, brown, gray, blue and many others.
Ceramic and clinker bricks in different packs most often differ slightly in color. This is due, first of all, to the fact that they are fired and also consist of natural clay impurities.
Shades are usually natural - from terracotta to dark brown.
Hyperpressed ones do not differ in different packs, because they do not undergo firing, however, if you need to combine them with other types, you should take into account that they are less bright and have a grayish tint due to the cement added to the mixture. But they have the widest range of shades.
Buying sand-lime brick, pay attention to its color, too bright indicates large quantities dye, which reduces the strength of the product; if it is insufficient, the colors turn out to be excessively pale.
Experienced builders, when constructing a fence from ceramic or clinker blocks, take bricks from three packs at once, ensuring a uniform tint coating over the entire surface of the fence façade
Which brick is better to choose
When choosing a brick for a fence, you should first of all proceed from the comparison of its types according to technical characteristics for each area separately. For example, you should not choose silicate for fences in places with excessive atmospheric humidity. If the foundation is of a light type, you should abandon the hyper-pressed product.
Bricks with special textures are expensive, and if your budget does not allow you to purchase a product with optimal characteristics, it is better to abandon cheap, but inferior decorative bricks in favor of more durable ordinary blocks.
Otherwise, all of the listed types are suitable for fencing. But it is important to remember that you should carefully study the product passport and the appearance of the material before purchasing it, in order to avoid purchasing a reject.
Without beautiful fence the landscape of the site and the buildings located on it lose their attractiveness.
Aesthetics is an important, but not the only function of fencing an estate. Strength and durability are the key conditions necessary to create a high-quality fence design.
You need to decide on the fencing option before starting construction, because each part of it - the foundation, pillars, sections are closely interconnected with each other.
Let us explain this fact by simple example. Let's say you filled concrete foundation under a fence with brick pillars, and then they realized it and decided to strengthen them with reinforcement. Time is lost, since it will be impossible to install the frame into the set concrete without destroying the integrity of the “tape”.
If you planned to fence the area with a net, and later changed your mind and chose corrugated sheets to fill the sections, then nothing good will come of it. A large windage of a steel sheet under a strong wind load will cause deformation of the fence.
In our article we will talk about how to make brick pillars for a fence with your own hands, following all stages of the technology. In this case, the fence will be as durable and aesthetic as possible.
Fence design using brick pillars
Without a reliable connection to the foundation, a brick pillar, despite its considerable weight, will not stand for long. A powerful wind load acting on solid sections of the fence inevitably leads to the overturning of a post that is not secured in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal soil movements. Lowering and rising a couple of centimeters up and down throughout the year, the foundation must work in unison with the posts and sections of the fence.
The optimal design of a foundation with brick pillars designed for a fence made of corrugated board is clearly illustrated by diagram No. 1.
As can be seen from this diagram, a steel rod made of a square pipe or reinforcement cage is installed in the brick columns. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins for corrugated sheets or picket fences are attached to them.
Foundation type – strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and holes with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled in the places where the pillars are installed. First, the concrete is poured into the wells with the pillar posts installed in them. After this, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.
The main parameters of the foundation (depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating strength and stability.
In a simplified version, tested in practice, the following sizes can be recommended:
- trench depth – 20-30 cm;
- well depth for installation metal racks brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
- the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation located above the ground surface) is 40-60 cm;
- foundation width – 20-35 cm;
- the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
- height of pillars from 150 to 180 cm ( cross section masonry 38x38 cm).
In wet soils, you need to drill holes for posts below the freezing depth so that the forces of frost heaving do not deform the fence.
In weak and unstable soils in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting it, it is advisable to lay a reinforcement cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will maintain the integrity of the foundation and absorb the loads that arise in the concrete during soil subsidence.
Laying brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can begin to work.
Smooth seams guarantee excellent appearance brick columns. To simplify the work, experienced masons use pieces of a square rod, which serves as a seam template (photo No. 2)
Photo No. 2 Square steel bar - template for laying a column
In the photo we see a fence under construction with brick pillars with a cross section of 38x38 cm. Two reinforcing bars are installed inside for reinforcement. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.
For fences with a height of two meters or more, the cross-sectional size of the post is increased to 51x63 cm or 64x77 cm. The dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase accordingly.
In order to firmly connect the masonry with the concrete filling of the frame, some builders use reinforcing mesh, running it 3-5 cm inside the column (every 2-3 rows).
Selecting bricks for pillars and material for fence sections
When choosing a brick for pillars, each developer proceeds from his personal ideas about beauty. However, here too the practical side of the issue plays a big role. Ordinary smooth facing brick is not in the best possible way has proven itself in such designs.
After a few seasons, it begins to crumble and loses particles of the outer layer. This fact is partly explained by the negligence of the owners who do not cover the poles with reliable caps. Part of the blame lies with manufacturers who are unable to make high-quality material.
Textured brick for pillars, called “rock,” is more resistant to precipitation and frost. A compromise option, both aesthetic and reliable, is a combination of the two mentioned types of bricks (photo No. 4).
In the photograph, we see the rational combination of the fence grillage with its finishing. Brick here plays a dual role: formwork for concrete and a decorative layer.
The design of posts for gates and wickets does not have fundamental differences from ordinary sections. For installation of heavy swing gates made of metal, the cross-section of the reinforcement frame or pipe-rack is increased. In this case, the embedded plates need to be thicker and wider so that the rotary hinges do not tear them off the racks (photo No. 5).
Photo No. 5 Pillar embedded part with a plate for hanging the gate and a plate for the automation motor
The front gates of the estate are often crowned with decorative lamps, and are also complemented with automation and intercom. If you intend to do this, do not forget to place a corrugated cable with wire in the masonry.
Having decided to make brick pillars with your own hands from start to finish, decide in advance on the material for filling the sections. The most common options include profiled steel sheets, forging, picket fences and unedged boards.
The most expensive, but at the same time the most elegant option is forged grilles (photo No. 7).
Photo No. 7 Forged gratings on brick pillars
Combination of brick with natural stone and forging is no less aesthetically pleasing and durable (photo No. 8).
What is good about the combination of three materials? In it, each element contributes to general view. The grille can be ordered in a minimum area. It will perfectly serve as a decorative accent.
Photo No. 9 is not very well represented. good example combinations of bricks with forging and corrugated sheets.
Having opened part of the fence using a forged lattice, the owner for some reason decided to close it again by placing a sheet of flooring in the opening. The result was an absurd and strange combination.
Brick and wood are perfectly combined in any design, helping to create an inexpensive and beautiful fence (photo No. 10).
A picket fence or board in a section can be mounted not only vertically, but also horizontally (using the overlapping method).
Metal picket fences are becoming increasingly popular. It is several times more durable than wood, and looks no worse (photo No. 12).
A mandatory design element is caps for brick pillars. Without them, the material will not last long. Moisture freezing in a brick will destroy it. There are two types of caps on the market – metal and concrete.
The choice of material for protective caps is purely individual. It should be taken into account that the metal on the pole will last longer than concrete, which is less resistant to frost and moisture.
Estimated cost of brick pillars
When calculating the budget required for the construction of brick pillars, you should determine the total cost of materials and work (if you hire a team). We will not provide you with an exact calculation, since there may be several options for masonry. Estimated cost is a more realistic approach to estimating a project.
Consider a fence with brick pillars (height 2 meters, section 38x38 cm). The cost of laying one pillar, taking into account materials (facing brick, mortar, pipe, metal cap) will be from 8,500 rubles.
In terms of 1 linear meter For such a fence (filling the sections with corrugated sheets, the distance between the posts is 3 meters), the turnkey price will be from 7,000 rubles. This amount includes the installation of gates and wickets. If you do all the work yourself, the cost of the fence will decrease by an average of 35-40%.
When settling in suburban area it is necessary to ensure the safety of property and people living in the house. For this purpose, a reliable fence is constructed. Important have not only its strength and durability, but also the correct installation of posts under the fence.
Installation of poles from various materials
When deciding which fence posts are best to use, you need to focus on two main parameters - the resistance of the structure to external weather conditions and its overall strength. But we should not forget about one more parameter - the complexity of the installation procedure itself.
Installation of wooden poles
Made from solid logs, such poles will be quite expensive, especially if they are high-quality samples from hard rocks. Pine, mulberry, oak and larch have best properties in terms of resistance to natural factors and the effects of mold and fungi.
Pine and fir are also used in the production of poles. But birch, aspen, beech or alder are not used. Besides, wooden poles Before installation, it must be treated with an antiseptic and burned to the charring stage. It is advisable to use such supports for wooden fences.
If you decide to use wooden supports, then you need to choose them with a diameter of at least 150 mm; for intermediate installation you can take 100 mm.
They are treated with a solution copper sulfate or other antiseptic, and the lower edge - with resin, followed by coating with roofing felt material. Coloring will also be helpful. oil paint. And it must be installed with the top down.
The holes are drilled with a diameter twice the size of the support. With a ground height of 1.5 m, the depth must be at least 0.5 m. Remember, for strength, at least a third of the length of the entire support must be buried.
Before installing the pillar, you should arrange a drainage cushion from a layer of crushed stone or expanded clay. After strictly vertical installation, the pit is filled with crushed stone and fragments of bricks. During the work process, compulsory compaction is carried out.
The strength of the fastening can be ensured by using metal sleeves with a diameter smaller than the size of the post. A wooden log is inserted into a metal tube.
Metal structures
Such supports are not only distinguished by their versatility and applicability for various types of fences, but also by their high strength. This is a durable material, but the pipes must be treated with anti-corrosion agents. Regular coloring is also required.
There are two types of supports:
- hollow welded round shape;
- made of metal profiles with a square cross-section.
The optimal diameter of the pillars will be 60 mm with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The strength of the material ensures the fencing is resistant to loads different types, including wind. For installation, concreting methods are used, or supports are driven into the ground.
It is advisable to install fence posts by concreting in areas with sandy soil, as well as if the soil is susceptible to heaving. Two technologies are used:
- a hole is drilled with a size slightly larger than the diameter of the support, then a pole is placed, and the gap between it and the walls of the hole is filled with concrete;
- After drilling the hole, concrete is placed in it, and only then the support is placed vertically, providing a more durable fixation.
If the site has heavy, dense soil or you plan to use a fairly lightweight fencing structure, then you can use the technology of driving in supports.
First you need to drill holes. But their diameter should be smaller size pillars Then the supports are driven into the holes with a sledgehammer.
The distortion can be eliminated with blows of a sledgehammer. To simplify the installation procedure, you can use poles with a helical spiral for screwing into the ground.
Asbestos-cement and concrete fastenings
Asbestos-cement supports are a durable, but expensive option for arranging fencing. Moreover, if water gets into the empty space of the pipes, there is a risk of rupture. Also, this material is not used with all types of fencing.
The concrete structure will be very heavy, but these supports are strong, reliable and durable because they are not affected by most factors natural environment. Due to their weight and high price, they are rarely used - mainly for very massive structures.
Asbestos-cement pipes are usually taken with a diameter of 120 mm. A two-meter pole requires a depth of at least 800 mm. Bottom part The pits must be made with an extension, which must first be filled with concrete. Roofing felt is used to insulate walls. Moreover, the insulating material should protrude outward by 150-200 mm.
A wooden formwork is installed around the ground part of the roofing felt, and then the pit begins to be filled with concrete. A bracket in the form of a metal rod is inserted into the solution until it hardens completely.
The length of the pin should be less than the length of the support. An asbestos-cement pipe is strung vertically onto it, and the cavity inside is filled with concrete solution. A rounded cap is made at the top to allow water to drain.
Installation of brick pillars
This is a visually attractive design, but installation requires strict adherence to technology. A foundation for the load is required.
To install fence posts with your own hands, you need to lay a strip foundation. To do this, a trench is dug and brick fragments are placed in it. Concrete solution is poured on top.
For the post at the place of its subsequent installation, a frame is equipped in the form of reinforcement made of metal rods or pipes. Roofing felt is laid on top of the foundation. Brickwork is carried out around the frame. The internal cavity must be filled with concrete.
Along the perimeter of the future fence, you need to install stakes in place of the supports and pull the rope. The placement of pegs must be strictly aligned. The distance between the pillars is up to 3 m, and for heavy structures no more than 2.5 m. For extreme, corner supports, pipes of larger diameter are selected. This will ensure the stability of the structure before loading.
First you need to sequentially install the corner posts and check their height matching using a level. Twine is pulled from below and above between the pillars. It will help you position the intermediate supports evenly.
More complex installation will be if the height difference in the area is more than 250 mm. In this case, you need to install additional supports and arrange a stepped structure. In areas of the fence where it is planned to install a wicket or gate, it is necessary to install additional posts for greater reliability.
It is mandatory to check the structure vertically with a level. This way you will get the correct fence, as shown in the photo of the fence posts. Fastening the fence itself should begin no earlier than 3-5 days from the moment of concreting.
Particularly dangerous are areas with heaving soil or high water levels. In this case, it is possible that the supports may be pushed out of the soil over time, or they may undergo putrefactive and corrosive destruction.
If you encounter a problem groundwater, then you need to dig a trench or drill a hole deeper, i.e. lower relative to the water level. In this case, you will need to prepare a significantly larger volume of solution.
Experts also recommend constructing a high-quality drainage pad. Crushed stone with expanded clay is placed in the pits in a layer of at least 200 mm. Then a pillar is placed, and the gap between the pit is filled with crushed stone. But not completely, but with a shortfall of 150 mm. Concrete is poured from above the pillow to ground level.
Install a fence on the territory country house you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to select supports that match the fence material, and then install them, following our simple instructions.
Photo of fence posts
It’s not difficult to build and line brick fence posts yourself. It is important to carefully study the instructions and strictly follow the laying rules. If the construction scheme is violated, the brick columns will turn out to be unstable and will quickly collapse. For cladding it is recommended to use decorative brick yellow, brown or red.
Materials and tools
A beautiful fence with brick pillars, forged gates and a wicket will become not only a decoration personal plot, but will also serve as a reliable fence. Before you start building a fence, you need to make a work plan and drawing. If you want to build a fence yourself, it is important to carefully study the stages of work and lay bricks without violating the technology. If you decide to hire a team of builders, they will offer ready-made drawings. When all options have been agreed upon and the material has been calculated correctly, it is necessary to prepare the tools that will be needed during construction. It is recommended to stock up on the following “arsenal”:
- shovels - shovel and bayonet;
- container for mixing the solution;
- buckets 2-3 pcs.;
- trowel;
- spatulas;
- measuring device - level, angle, tape measure, plumb line;
- a motor drill or a hand drill for making recesses for metal piles;
- scaffolds or trestles, with the help of which you can lay out brick pillars in the upper part;
- rubberized gloves that protect hands from negative impact solution.
How to calculate the dimensions and quantity of materials?
To perform calculations you need to know the parameters of the brick. It is not difficult to correctly calculate the material, the main thing is that the dimensions of the fence are accurately determined. The brick pillar is laid out in such a way that one side consists of one and a half blocks. Based on this, it becomes clear that for laying 1 row you will need 4 pieces. bricks. The width of a standard fired block is 120 mm, length - 250 mm. The size of one side of a square column is calculated as follows:
- 250 + 120 + 10 = 380 mm, where the value 10 is the width of the seam.
The thickness of 1 block is 65 mm, so taking into account inter-row seams, to fold a support 2 m high you will need an average of 110 pieces. Next, calculate the thickness of the row with seams:
- 65 + 10 = 75 mm.
To determine the number of rows, you need to divide the height of the column by the thickness of the row:
- 2000 / 75 = 27.
It is important to take into account the fact that the first 3-4 rows from the bottom are laid out from solid blocks. This is required so that the fence supports have great weight and reliable stability. It is recommended to fasten the supports to screw piles, embedded in the foundation. The number of round piles is equal to the number of pillars, while the height of the pipes is taken 500-600 mm larger than the size of the planned brick support, because this difference will be buried in concrete base. Often, instead of piles, round metal reinforcement rods with a diameter of about 15 mm are used. They are also fixed to the foundation. It is important to tie the base with a reinforcing belt. To form 1 pillar you will need a round rod in the amount of 4-6 pieces.
Stages of work
It is better to choose as a basis for pillars strip foundation. In order for a fence with brick pillars to be strong and reliable, it is recommended to use a strip foundation as a base, which is additionally reinforced with a reinforcing structure. Reinforcement of the supports is carried out using piles or a round reinforcing bar, around which bricks are laid. The height of fence posts can reach up to 3 m, but it is important to take into account that the higher the support, the more durable and powerful the foundation should be made. If the fence is combined, for example, in the span there will be metal profile, the distance between the brick pillars is controlled, on average it is 3000 mm. All these points must be taken into account in the drawings, otherwise the brick fence around the house will be unstable and will quickly collapse.
Forming the Foundation
Before placing brick pillars under the fence with your own hands, you must first lay a strong and reliable one. To do this, a trench with a depth of 50-1000 mm is dug along the intended perimeter, which is well compacted, after which it is filled with a sand and gravel cushion with an average thickness of 20-25 cm. Next, the core of future supports for the brick fence is laid. To strengthen the foundation, it is recommended to perform reinforcement. Afterwards, the finished structure is poured with concrete, and until the foundation dries completely, construction is not carried out.
To ensure that the solution is reliable, it is recommended to prepare it by mixing 1:2.8:4.8 parts of cement, sand and crushed stone, respectively.
How is masonry done?
The wide range of brick colors allows you to make the pillars as close as possible in shade to the decoration of the house. Brick for pillars must be durable, frost-resistant, and moisture-proof. Clinker material has these characteristics. In addition to high performance qualities, the product is distinguished by a wide range of colors. Therefore, you can build a brown, yellow or red fence that will match facing material, posted on the house.
There are 2 masonry options - 1.5 and 2 bricks. To make the design neat and beautiful, it is important to control the size of the seams in each row. To fasten the picket fence with brick pillars, iron mortgages are formed at the bottom and top of the support. Also, the mortgage will hold the gate with wickets. Metal mesh reinforcement is used to strengthen the pillars.