A blind fence is needed to fence and protect private territory land or summer cottage. Naturally, the fence must have an entrance. At first a gate was enough, then a gate was needed for the carriage, and then for the car.
Metal gates and a wicket will provide entry/entry into the yard and guarantee safety for the residents of the house. Earlier iron gate sheathed with 3-5 mm sheet metal; in modern conditions, corrugated sheeting is popular.
According to the method of opening, all types of metal/wood gates can be divided into two groups: swing and sliding.
By type of gate device: built-in (inside) and free-standing (nearby).
You can buy ready gates from corrugated sheets, order production according to size or make it yourself. Let's take a closer look last option– homemade gates as a cheap and affordable option.
Since swing doors are an easier design to manufacture, we will describe how to make swing gates from corrugated sheets on your own. The strength and aesthetic properties of the profiled sheet, as well as the price/quality ratio, allow us to talk about the feasibility of such a choice of cladding. As for the gate, we will describe two options for the device.
Do-it-yourself gates made of corrugated sheets -
step by step instructions
Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a structure with a separate gate.
Stage 1 – dimensions of gates made of corrugated sheets with and without a wicket
Please note that the installation of swing gates requires taking into account the layout of the site/yard.
Width of corrugated gates
The width of the gate opening is determined based on the width of the car (including mirrors) plus one additional meter for reserve.
The width of the supporting pillars (columns) is also taken into account. When installing a gate with a free-standing gate, there will be three posts. In addition, you need to take into account the size of the gaps between the support pillars and the frame frame. As well as the size of the gap between the swing gate leaves, taking into account the parameters of the fittings.
- The optimal opening width for gates is 4500-5000 mm.
- The standard width of a gate made of corrugated sheets is 1200 mm.
Advice. Since you can’t get by with one sheet per sash, it is advisable to calculate the width of the sash based on the width of the corrugated sheet.
The table shows the dependence of the width of the gate leaf on the width of the profiled sheet.
Material prepared for the website www.site
Height of corrugated gates
The height of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is 2200-2500 mm. This is explained by the standard length of the corrugated sheet - 2,000 mm. Although the manufacturer can offer any length with a resolution of 50 mm.
In addition, the gap at the bottom (between the gate leaves and the ground) is taken into account, which is necessary to ensure the functioning of the gate during the formation of ice and high snow cover. The gap under the gate is 150-300 mm.
The height of the gate is influenced by the presence of decorative elements on top. For example, the use of forging allows you to increase the height of gates made of corrugated sheets and decoratively decorate the structure, as a result of which the entrance group looks more respectable.
Advice. If the gap from the ground seems too large, you can install a removable bar at the bottom of the gate, which must be removed at the beginning of winter.
Stage 2 – Drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets
A diagram or drawing of swing gates is necessary to simplify the calculation of the amount of material and assess the rigidity of the structure.
Two ways to make swing gates:
- with one large leaf (single leaf). The disadvantage of this method is that it requires a lot of space to maneuver the gate, as well as its large windage. Reducing the windage due to additional frame parts leads to an increase in the load on the hinges, which in turn leads to sash misalignment. This method is only suitable for gates with a small opening width or for installing a wicket gate;
- with two doors (double doors). All the disadvantages described above are eliminated, but the manufacturing cost increases due to the addition of hinges and frame elements. It is possible to have a device with the same or different width sashes. Double-leaf swing gates have the advantage of being more resistant to wind loads.
The diagram of swing gates made of corrugated sheets should contain:
- the total width of the opening. It will be necessary to make a maneuver if necessary - when increasing gaps or changing the size of fittings;
- the width of each sash;
- number, width of racks and depth of digging of racks;
- frame configuration indicating the width of its constituent elements;
- location and width of the gate. This is an important aspect. Manufacturing a gate from corrugated sheets simultaneously with the frame for the gate will reduce the duration of the project. And if the gate is located inside the gate frame, the drawing will allow you to take into account its location when marking and cutting blanks;
- location for installing hinges;
- place and method of installing the lock;
- location of the internal door latch (vertical latch).
Frame reinforcement elements must be applied to the drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets. It is the visualization of the future gate that allows you to understand which element to use and determine the location of its installation, taking into account the wind load.
Ways to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets:
1. weld a corner for rigidity.
This method is suitable if the width of the sashes is small (up to 1,500 mm each). The corner can be solid (kerchief) or in the form of a corner jumper (spacer). The wider the corner or the closer to the center the jumper is installed, the stiffer the gate frame will be.
2. make a frame inside or above the frame.
In the first case, workpieces of a smaller cross-section are placed in the cells of the frame and are tacked by welding in increments of 200-300 mm.
A continuous seam is not allowed to prevent deformation of the metal due to heating (to prevent it from leading and twisting).
In the second, a pipe of smaller cross-section is welded over the main frame. The figure shows a top view of such a reinforcement. 3. install transverse or diagonal jumpers.
It is important to install the jumpers correctly here. If a gate made of corrugated sheets has a slight windage and it is enough to install one transverse jumper perpendicular to the long frame elements, then the situation with gates is more complicated. In this case, it makes more sense to use a diagonal jumper.
Methods for installing a lintel on a gate made of corrugated sheets are shown in the photo.
Gate stiffeners – location options:
A) Despite its apparent simplicity, this option is quite thoughtful, since it guarantees the integrity of the gate leaves. On the one hand, it will be held in place by hinges; the possibility of deformation is eliminated from above due to the reinforcement of the corners. It will be held at the bottom by horizontal clamps (latches);
b) This is the most economical of the options presented, but it creates reinforcement only in the middle of the frame. The only advantage is that it makes it possible to install a lock on the jumper.
V) The disadvantage of this option is the weak reinforcement of the upper internal corners. Strong wind may deform the sash;
G) in this case there is no strengthening of the left inner corner;
d) in this case there is no strengthening of both internal corners;
e) ideal option. The places where the lock is inserted, where the hinges are installed, the lower fasteners and the upper corners are reinforced. This method eliminates frame torsion.
Advice. The wider the sash, the more the frame is reinforced.
Stage 3 – tools and material for gates made of corrugated sheets
A drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets is a visual aid for calculating the material. To make it you will need:
- corrugated sheeting - for cladding. It is preferable to take a wall one, because it has a large working width.
- self-tapping screws or rivets for attaching corrugated sheets;
- metal pipe with a cross-section of 60x60 mm and above - for support pillars;
- pipe with a cross section of 40x40 or 60x20...60 mm. – for elements of the frame of the sashes (frame);
- pipe 20x20 to strengthen the frame (if necessary). 20x20 is suitable for a frame made of 60x20 pipe. 30x30 - if a 60x30 pipe was used.
Experts advise buying all pipes with a thickness of 3 mm, not 2. Their price is slightly more expensive, but it will be much easier for beginners to weld them. Metal heats up more slowly and does not deform as quickly.
- metal sheet for forming scarves (if necessary);
- hinges, locks (latches, latches, plugs), bottom clamps;
- metal primer and paint;
- decorative elements (forging).
Tools you will need: welding machine, grinder, screwdriver (drill and riveter), tape measure, level, plumb line, metal scissors, brushes and consumables to the instrument.
Stage 4 – installation of support posts for gates made of corrugated sheets
Installation of corrugated gates begins with the installation of support posts. The most common way to install gate posts is by digging them in followed by concreting.
How to install gate posts correctly
- dig a hole with a garden drill. Using a shovel increases concrete consumption. The larger the diameter of the support, the larger the diameter of the recess should be. For a pipe with a cross-section of 60x60, the diameter of the drill should be 120 mm.
How deep should gate posts be buried? Installation depth is 1/3 of the support length
- pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand into the recess. The thickness of the pillow is 150-300 mm. The cushion is designed to prevent the influence of frost heaving of the soil and ensure the outflow of water from the base of the support, thereby slowing down its destruction;
- prepare the support (coat it with anti-corrosion primer);
- install the support strictly vertically. The slightest deviation will lead to distortion of the entire structure. Correct installation is checked with a plumb line or level;
- concrete the support. While the concrete is setting, you can begin making the frame;
- cover the upper part of the support with a metal plate or special decorative element. As a last resort, pour concrete into the post (concrete from the inside) to prevent water from getting inside and thereby prevent the pillar from collapsing.
What kind of corrugated gate posts can be used?
In addition to metal pipe supports, you can install a concrete pillar or use piles. Supports decorated (lined) with brick or stone (brick pillars) look beautiful. When calculating the width of the gate opening, you should take into account the material of manufacture and the width of the support.
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Stage 5 – manufacturing gate frames from corrugated sheets
Before starting production, you need to once again measure the width of the gate opening and wicket in order to make timely changes to the dimensions of the sashes.
Manufacturing technology:
- the metal is dissolved into blanks. It is advisable to make the cut at an angle of 45° for more reliable fastening. Although end-to-end welding of parts is also common, it is easier to cut workpieces and weld them;
Advice. Craftsmen advise welding the upper corners at an angle of 45 degrees, this will prevent water from flowing into them, and the lower ones can be butt welded.
- each workpiece is cleaned of dirt and rust;
- weld the frame elements together. Moreover, first the workpieces are baited, and after checking the geometry, they are welded with a continuous seam;
- the frame is strengthened (if necessary);
- Weld seams are thoroughly cleaned;
- degrease the frame, coat it with primer and paint the welding areas. After the paint has dried, paint the frame completely.
Advice. Making gates from corrugated sheets requires great precision in maintaining dimensions. When making a sash frame, it is better to make the frame a little smaller rather than larger. In the first case, in order to eliminate the gap between the swing gate leaves, it will be enough to weld the flashing onto one leaf of the frame, where it adjoins the second. In the second, you will need to cut the frame and reduce its width.
Stage 6 – installation of hinges for swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Garage hinges (canopies) are used to install gates.
How to properly weld hinges on gates made of corrugated sheets?
First, the hinge is welded onto the support post, then onto the gate frame at a distance of 200-300 mm from the edge of the door frame. Please note that the location of the hinge affects the position of the door in open state. If it is necessary for the gate to open in both directions, the hinge is butt welded to the support. If there is only one, the loop is placed on the frame. To prevent the sash from reaching the fence, install a limiter.
How many hinges should be welded on the gate?
If the gate is reinforced, three hinges are required for each leaf. If you are light, two are enough.
Stage 7 – installation of corrugated sheeting on the gate
The corrugated sheet is mounted on one or both sides of the frame. The installation rules are not complicated, but knowing and following them will help you install the corrugated sheet on the gate correctly.
In general terms: you need to ensure reliable fastening of the sheet to the frame by fixing the corrugated sheet through one lower wave of the sheet. In this case, the profiled sheet is also screwed to the diagonal or perpendicular jumpers. And two sheets are connected to each other at the top of the wave (at the crest).
Rivets or self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Rivets look more elegant (especially those matched to the color of the corrugated sheet), self-tapping screws eliminate the possibility of water flowing into the installation site. Of course, this is not as critical as on the roof, but rusty smudges cannot be avoided over time.
Stage 8 – installation of fittings (components for gates)
Additional items:
- lock for swing gates made of corrugated sheets. It is installed after the sashes are hung.
Types of locks and how to install/install (installation rules):
- mounted It is necessary to provide loops for the lock when welding the frame and attaching corrugated sheets;
- overhead. It is installed on a crossbar, most often on an additionally welded flat sheet of metal. Or it is screwed directly to the frame with hardware. Craftsmen do not recommend using welding to install the locking mechanism structure, because the lock needs maintenance and replacement;
- mortise The lock cuts into the plane of the pipe; a metal pocket is used to hide/decorate the installation site.
- lower lock of the swing gate leaf - needed to redistribute the load from the lock and additionally secure the lower part of the open/closed gate leaf from the wind (wind load).
- gate latch (bolt), designed to close the gate from the inside (locking). The latch is more suitable for a gate, and for swing gates a lock (bolt) is used.
- automation for swing gates. Allows you to open the gate remotely, which is very convenient when it’s cold, raining or dark.
- security system: external surveillance camera, warning light, alarm.
Swing gates made of corrugated sheets with a built-in wicket
We’ll separately tell you how to make swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets. This option is used when the opening is not wide enough to install gates and a separate wicket.
Options for the location of the wicket in the gate
Locations:
When making sash frames, they are made different sizes. Then the narrower sash serves as a gate.
This is the most budget option, since the load on only one gate post increases, which will require the installation of an additional hinge and reinforcement of the frame. Overall costs will go down.
In the middle of the gate leaf. The option with a location in the middle is good because the frame of the gate acts as a reinforcement of the frame of the sash. And installing hinges not in the center, but closer to the top and bottom of the gate will further strengthen the structure. 
Closer to the support pillar. In this case, the main load falls on the support post, because both the gate frame and the gate frame rest on it. 
Closer to the inner edge of the sash. This design is the most “flimsy”; its weak link is the junction of the two doors and the gate. In the last three cases, during the manufacturing process of the frame, an additional frame for the gate is provided. Moreover, it is made more reinforced than for a free-standing gate, since it bears the wind load that acts on the gate leaves made of corrugated sheets. Please note that the gate will greatly overload the frame, which means that additional hinges and reinforcement of the sash frame will be needed. In general, the technology for manufacturing gates from corrugated sheets with a wicket inside is carried out similarly to the manufacturing of gates with a separate wicket. All the nuances are considered during the drawing process.
Advice. The lower clamp for such models of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is required.
Advantages and disadvantages of swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Advantages (pros):
- comparative simplicity of design and manufacture;
- low compared to sliding gates, price;
- ease of operation and maintenance;
- accessibility for installation of automation;
Disadvantages (cons):
- requirements for free space for maneuver (opening will require the release of an area equal to the width of the gate leaf);
- the need to take into account wind load;
- the need to provide for securing open gates in order to avoid their unauthorized closing (latch, stop, locking devices);
- installing a limiter to prevent open gates from damaging the fence and blocking access to the gate;
- difficulty in caring for winter time year, which consists in the need to remove snow over a large area.
Approximate prices for swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Conclusion
As you can see, with some effort you can make and install swing gates from corrugated sheets with your own hands in 1-2 weeks, which will decorate entrance group and will reliably serve as a beautiful business card of a private home.
A garage is primarily necessary for secure storage of a car. In addition, many car enthusiasts set up a workshop, cellar, warehouse in it, and keep numerous spare parts, tools, and seasonal tires in the garage. It is important to know how to protect your garage from being opened. Today we will look at the most significant factors effective methods. Let's find out how the protection of the premises differs depending on the type of materials from which the garage is built. Having learned numerous useful tips, everyone will be able to ensure safety in their garage.
It turns out that the protection of a garage largely depends on what material it is made of. Let's look at all the main types of garages, find out how safe it is to store a car in them, and how you can enhance protection.
- Monolithic reinforced concrete structure. This best option for the garage, so that it is truly durable, reliable, and ensures safety. This design can be ordered at a Russian reinforced concrete products plant. Of course, you will need craftsmen and appropriate specialized equipment for its transportation and installation. But in this garage it is quite difficult to break through the wall. At good hinges and castles, gates, the building will become impregnable.
- Brick garages. These structures can also be very durable. But everything depends on the material and the quality of the masonry. In addition, there is a weak spot: the floor slabs on the gates. Criminals lift them with jacks, providing clearance for themselves. Experienced garage workers simply attach such a plate directly to the garage door frame, ensuring the integrity and reliability of the structure.
- Metal buildings. Unfortunately, widespread garages made of corrugated sheets are becoming the least protected. Even teenagers can handle them without much difficulty. The metal panels themselves are vulnerable. In addition, there is a danger that the entire structure will simply be lifted above the ground. The problem is also in the thickness of the metal: if it is thin, the garage is opened with a simple device that resembles a familiar can opener. Therefore, it is important to use thick, durable metal. Good decision– a sectional garage that is assembled on site. Of course, the floor must be connected to the walls. It is also worth taking care of pouring the foundation so that it cannot be undermined.
When you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to choose a ready-made monolithic reinforced concrete garage. If it is not there, you will need to strengthen the existing structure.
Important points
Also of significant importance the following factors. If you have to choose new garage, please pay attention to the following points.
- It is advisable to have neighbors with safe, well-equipped and secure garages. This is especially true in cooperatives. If the premises adjacent to you are very poorly protected, it is through them that intruders can get into your garage. This risk factor is very serious.
- The specifics of the area, as well as the level of crime in it, play a big role. When a place is poorly lit, rarely visited, and difficult to see from different sides, the likelihood of criminals appearing increases sharply. It is better to buy a more expensive garage, but in a safe place, in a quiet area.
- Finally, having an expensive car next to you can be a negative factor. It happens that an elite car is stored in a garage, but it is well protected, closed, and has an alarm system. And then criminals can try to break into it through next room. That is, the neighboring garage is under threat.
Be careful. To make your garage more secure, try to eliminate all risk factors and take additional safety measures.
We strengthen the garage
Now we will find out how to protect garages from opening, we will consider various options. We have already found out that metal structure must be welded from thick material. It is necessary to strengthen not only your garage, but also the neighboring ones. It is necessary to prevent undermining and lifting of the box. Now let's move on to the gate.
Gate protection
Weak link - garage doors. Unfortunately, quite often criminals resort to forceful opening of gates: they make jerks using cars, attaching a cable to the doors or gate handle. This method is quite effective, especially if the place is poorly visible and illuminated, and the area is deserted. To increase the level of safety, it is necessary to make the doors solid, without cracks or gaps.
Make additional stiffening ribs on the metal gates. This is a good way to strengthen them. The best option– made of iron with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The frame must also be strong. It is advisable to weld it from channel number 6, just like the box. Additional measure– fasten the box with a reliable weld to the walls and beams of the garage.
Remember that attackers often press the gate using a crowbar. Here you need to eliminate the gap between the two swing gate leaves. Weld a strip of metal so that it is impossible to push the crowbar into the gap.
Loops
The vulnerability is often associated with loops. They are further strengthened by welding bolts. But this does not always help, since the bolt heads are cut off with a grinder or knocked off with a chisel.
Optimal modern solution– install internal hinges. In their design and structure, they resemble car hinges. Of course, they will be more difficult to install, but it is also extremely difficult for criminals to get to such loops.
Castles
Locks must be extremely secure. It is advisable to use combinations of several locks different types. The external lock protects the metal casing quite well. True, experienced criminals also get rid of casings by threading a crowbar into the shackle. The locking design with hidden rods is more reliable. They have a streamlined shape, which makes it difficult to throw on a chain.
Most effective solution- install one that will be securely closed from the outside. Experts also advise installing several locks, keeping a distance of 30 cm between them. Then, even if you try to break in, the load will be distributed. Be sure to ensure that the locks are well recessed and in no case protrude beyond the gate.
Electronic protection
It is most prudent to install an alarm system with remote control in the garage. Then, when a penetration or attempted break-in is detected, a squad will immediately go to the site. You won't have to run telephone wires because the radio link is now used. If you just want to scare away intruders, install a sound alarm: when someone breaks in, the siren will sound. Carefully mask the alarm switch.
Video: we provide reliable protection for the garage
It is worth watching the useful materials in the video. Here, car enthusiasts tell you how to protect garages from being opened, and show everything with specific examples. For example, you can make reliable garage doors by equipping them with a special locking hatch. This will significantly improve the level of security.
You also need to pay attention to correct installation modern reliable locks for garage doors. The following video explains in detail how to do this.
If you follow the advice, act comprehensively, you will not leave the structure protected weak points, you will be able to ensure safety in the garage.
The gate is the face of the garage. The quality of their insulation determines the microclimate in the room. How well they function determines whether you can open the garage and take your car out of it at any time.
Insulate garage doors and install current repairs Most car owners can do it on their own. The appropriate tools and materials are available in every private household.
Insulation of garage doors
For many car owners, a garage is more than a place to park a car. Here you can equip a small workshop, make a warehouse for useful things, and finally spend time in the company of friends.
The garage needs to be maintained at an optimal temperature in both winter and summer. According to building regulations, in a heated room this figure is +5 degrees. This will allow you not to warm up the car before starting and avoid the accumulation of moisture in hidden cavities.
Is it necessary to insulate garage doors (with an automatic mechanism, swing doors, overhead doors, sectional doors, swing doors, etc.)?
To determine whether your garage door needs to be insulated, just look at the thermal image. It shows that most of the heat leaves the room through uninsulated gates.
This factor is especially important for owners of built-in garages. Often the heating of such a room is included in the general house system. And heat loss through uninsulated gates will affect the entire house as a whole. Heat costs will increase.
Let's consider the types of gate structures and evaluate the need and possibility of their insulation.
- Roller shutter structures consisting of individual aluminum slats. Some models have polyurethane foam inside. The fabric itself is wound on a shaft located above doorway. In view of design features insulation is not possible.
- Sectional doors. It is based on sandwich panels filled with polyurethane foam. Additional insulation is not required, however, you can stick foam plastic on inner part sections.
- Swing gates. The most common design, consisting of two sashes hung on welded hinges. In the very simple version consist of metal sheet, welded to a steel frame. It is advisable to insulate such a structure during the construction stage, however, this can be done independently, after installing the gate.
- The lift-and-turn design consists of one leaf. You can make it yourself or purchase products from a reputable manufacturer. Factory fabric is a panel made of durable sheet steel and insulation, which is often polyurethane foam. A thickness of 45 millimeters is enough to prevent heat loss. Homemade gate must be carefully insulated.
Such gates do not require additional insulation
Selecting material for insulation (foam plastic, penoizol, etc.)
When choosing high-quality insulation, you need to keep in mind several nuances. So, it’s not suitable for insulating garage doors. mineral wool and other porous materials. Most often, the thickness of the walls of a garage is much less than that of a residential building. Often, corrugated sheeting or a similar product is used as the main building material. When using porous insulation, a dew point forms in it. As water accumulates in the pores, its density and thermal conductivity increase. Ultimately, this minimizes the effectiveness of insulation.
Among the most suitable materials can be called:
- Foam plastic. Inexpensive insulation obtained by dry heat treatment of polystyrene granules.
- Expanded polystyrene. It is also developed on the basis of polystyrene, however, using melting. There are several varieties: extruded, pressed, unpressed. The main advantages are lightness, durability and ease of processing. The disadvantage is poor vapor permeability, as a result of which increased demands are placed on the insulated room in terms of ventilation.
- Penoizol, which contains elements such as orthophosphoric acid, resins and carbide. Strong and durable material, resistant to combustion. However, low-quality penoizol can release toxic formaldehyde when burned.
- Polyurethane foam is a sprayed insulation material with excellent heat saving properties. The material is actively used in various industries industry.
Inexpensive insulation for gates and walls
When insulating a garage door, it makes sense to choose between expanded polystyrene and foam. The materials have the following differences:
- Strength. Polystyrene foam is a combination of individual elements. Expanded polystyrene is a single substance. The bending strength of the latter is several times higher.
- Permeability. Standard foam has voids that liquids can penetrate. Water absorption of polystyrene foam is much greater.
- Price. Polystyrene foam is noticeably cheaper.
If resistance to heavy loads is not critical for you and you want to insulate your garage door with a simple and inexpensive material, your choice is foam. In other cases - polystyrene foam.
There is no point in saving on insulation. Otherwise, the effectiveness of the work performed will be zero. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate in which the garage is located. So, in the European part of the country the weather is moderate, not too cold, however, sometimes the temperature reaches minus 25 degrees. In such conditions, the following thickness of insulation is sufficient:
- Polyurethane foam: 70 mm
- Extruded polystyrene foam: 80 mm
- Foam: 100 mm
Tools and materials
Before installation, you should carefully measure the garage door and calculate the amount of materials that will be required for insulation and cladding.
There are many facing materials on sale:
For cladding garage doors, 10 mm OSB-3 or OSB-4 boards, designed for rooms with high humidity. Standard size products - 1250*2500 mm. Two slabs are enough for finishing.
The cladding is attached to the sheathing. For this purpose, small wooden blocks of 40*40 mm are used, attached to the supporting part of the gate structure. The boards are installed around the perimeter and on the canvas area.
The dimensions of the insulation may vary. They are selected based on the location of the sheathing: should be avoided large quantity scraps and strive to ensure that entire sheets of polystyrene foam are located between the individual bars.
In addition to materials, for high-quality insulation of gates you will need a set of household tools that most home craftsmen have:
- Electric drill.
- Electric screwdriver or set of screwdrivers.
- Set of drills for wood and metal.
- Hacksaw. If necessary, you can notice with a jigsaw.
- A metal brush with stiff bristles. Necessary for surface cleaning.
- Sandpaper
- Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, square.
- Construction knife.
- Fasteners - screws, wood screws.
- Anti-corrosion primer and solvent, antiseptic.
How to insulate with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
The simplest way to insulate a gate is to lay a sheet of insulation directly between the frame posts, without any preparatory work. After which a suitable finishing material. However, the resulting structure will be short-lived and will not retain enough heat in the room.
Professional insulation of garage doors occurs in several stages:
Preparation
First of all, you need to treat the bars with an antiseptic in one or two layers. Remember individual means protection: wood impregnations contain aggressive chemicals.
After processing, the bars must dry. At this time, you need to prepare the gate for insulation. The surface of the canvas is carefully inspected, and if rust is detected, it is cleaned down to the metal with a stiff brush or drill attachment. If there is peeling paint, it must also be cleaned off. The resulting surface should not have rust spots and pollution. After this, the canvases are sequentially treated with a solvent and a primer.
After drying, the surface of the garage door needs to be waterproofed. If standard polystyrene foam is used as insulation, this operation is mandatory; when using extruded polystyrene foam, it can be skipped.
Waterproofing can be done using various methods:
- By gluing isolon - a two-millimeter foil film made of polyethylene foam.
- By gluing a membrane with a vapor barrier function.
- Treatment with bitumen mastic.
Installation of sheathing
First of all, the beams are cut required size. Places where ventilation holes and locks are located are circumscribed and will not be insulated.
In the places where the block will be attached to the frame, you need to drill holes with a 4 mm drill. The optimal step is 20–25 centimeters. If you need the screw head to be flush with the canvas, you can make small indentations. An eight-millimeter drill is used for this. It is important not to overdo it and remove only the amount of metal that is necessary to hide the head.
Before fastening, the bars are pulled to the frame using clamps. To prevent the wood from cracking, you can additionally drill holes equal to the depth of the screw. A 2mm drill is used for this.
All bars located around the perimeter of the frame are installed in a similar way. Additional crossbars are attached with self-tapping screws to the end in increments of 20–25 centimeters.
Sheets of insulation will be placed in these cells
Installation of insulation
The space between the sheathing elements is filled with foam plastic or expanded polystyrene. To do this:
- The size of each cell is measured.
- The insulation is cut according to the obtained dimensions. For this you will need construction knife and a ruler. On each side you need to leave a small margin - about 2-3 millimeters. This is necessary so that the elastic foam fits more tightly between the sheathing boards.
- The insulation is fixed in the cells.
There are several ways to attach foam between the bars:
- Using facing materials. In this case, the foam itself is not attached, but is pressed against OSB boards.
- Using "liquid nails".
- Using polyurethane foam. The material has excellent adhesion. If you choose this method, the surface must be moistened before applying the foam: hardening occurs only through direct contact with the liquid.
After installing the insulation, the remaining joints are sealed polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife.
In this case, the gates are insulated with foam plastic
Gate cladding
In the final finishing of garage doors after insulation, OSB boards are often used. The products cover the sheathing and insulation, making the doors more presentable.
The main condition is either the absence of joints or their location on the bars. Therefore, before cutting the sheets, it is necessary to measure all surfaces.
For cutting, you can use either a regular wood hacksaw or a jigsaw, or a powerful one. circular saw. The finished sheets are tried on at the site of future installation. If necessary, holes for locks are cut in them, ventilation holes etc. After this, you can attach the cladding.
The standard fastening pitch is 12–15 centimeters on racks located around the perimeter, and about 20 centimeters on transverse strips. To avoid cracking the wood, you can drill small holes with a small diameter bit before tightening the screws.
As facing material OSB boards can be used
Repair work: how to fix problems
A quality garage door can last for decades. However, with such long-term operation it is inevitable that a number of works will be carried out on their routine maintenance and repairs. Most operations can be performed independently.
How to Raise a Garage Door That's Sagging
The main reasons why it may be necessary to change the geometry of the gate structure are:
- General metal fatigue. Usually occurs after prolonged use.
- Loop subsidence.
- Possible deformations associated with poor-quality installation.
- Doorway subsidence.
- Other factors - for example, in hot sunny weather, deformation of the structure under the influence of high temperature is possible.
There are other reasons why the gate will need to be raised. The most common one is buying a new car that is a little low in height.
Every problem requires individual approach to correct the geometry of the gate. Many methods are available for independent work using everyday tools.
Elimination of sagging loops. To lift the hinges on the gate leaf, a special spacer washer is used. The work is as follows:
- The sash returns to its place. Using this method, you can straighten minor distortions of the gate leaves, raise the gate and make the structure move more freely. Important: the alloy from which the ball or washer is made must be harder than that used to create the loop.
- A washer is placed on the axis of the lower loop given thickness. If a suitable part cannot be found, a metal ball of the required diameter is inserted into the loop hole.
- The canvas is removed.
If you need to change the distance from the ground to the bottom of the sash, you can simply cut off part of the structure with a grinder and attach a rubber strip on top. This will help hide the gap that has formed. This method can be used if the bottom beam is located beyond the edges of the sheathing. If the crossbar is located close to the ground, you need to do the following:
- Carefully cut off the horizontal crossbar with a grinder.
- Trim the gate leaf to the required height.
- if necessary, attach a small rubber strip to the gate, the width equal to the distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground.
- weld the horizontal bar to the frame in a new place.
Sometimes the sashes become warped due to the deformation of the opening. In this case, you will have to either raise the opening itself, or correct the distortion on the sash itself. To slightly raise part of the structure without touching the frame, you need to cut the horizontal beam near the place of deformation, cut off 5-7 millimeters with a grinder, lift part of the sash, press the vertical beam and weld it. This method is used for small gaps. For reinforcement, it is attached to the welding site. metal strip, since the risk of residual deformations remains.
If other methods do not help, you will need to increase the height of the gate opening itself. In practice, such work is associated with certain difficulties. It is necessary to install temporary supports and clarify whether reinforcement passes inside the masonry. If you do not take into account all the nuances, there is a possibility of wall destruction or roof collapse.
Raising the level of the gateway is quite complicated. Additional equipment and bricklaying skills required
Correct strengthening and protection
For installation, durable metal pins up to 20 centimeters long are used. Once installed, they are cut and sanded to ensure smooth opening and closing of the sashes. The gate is hung on the frame.
Additional reinforcement of your garage door makes sense if you are the owner of a permanent concrete building. To strengthen the walls next to the structure, you can use metal frame, welded from corners and scalded with mesh. It can be installed both at the construction stage of the building and subsequently, with inside premises.
Strong metal rods welded to the hinges make it much more difficult for an intruder to saw through. Additionally with reverse side nuts and bolts can be welded on the blades.
Placement of stiffeners using the example of swing gates with a separate door
To make the sashes press closer to each other, you can use an eccentric latch. A wide strip of metal is welded onto one of the canvases, thanks to which an attacker will not be able to use a crowbar or similar tool.
To strengthen the sashes themselves, horizontal and vertical stiffeners are welded to the frame. These are transverse metal racks, located at some distance from the edges of the canvas. Their number depends on what degree of rigidity is needed. The length of the crossbar is determined based on the dimensions of the canvas as the distance between the opposite posts of the frame.
If one of the doors has a door, vertical stiffeners are welded on both sides of it, otherwise deformation of the leaf is possible. If there is no door, horizontal or vertical crossbars are welded to the frame anywhere, most often in the center of the structure.
Replacement
Garage door replacement may be necessary for a variety of reasons. The old structure may have become rusty or warped. Or have you purchased a new gate? best quality or registration.
The first stage is the dismantling of the old structure. Before this, it is necessary to clarify whether there are additional “inserts” from thieves, such as welded to the frame above door hinges bolts, pieces of reinforcement or other similar elements. If they exist, they need to be dismantled.
The easiest way to dismantle metal swing gates. It is enough to open both doors and remove the panels from their hinges. After this, if necessary, remove the hinges themselves (with a sledgehammer, grinder, etc.) and you can install a new gate.
If the hinges become deformed or corroded, it is better to replace them.
To install the doors into an existing frame, you only need to take the necessary measurements, weld the hinges and hang the new gate on them.
If the gate is replaced along with the frame, old frame needs to be dismantled. It is better to entrust this work to professional builders, as damage to the masonry is possible. After dismantling, a new supporting frame is installed, leveled and attached to the opening with long self-tapping screws. For a conventional design, 4–6 pieces per side are enough; when installing a reinforced frame, the number of dowels reaches 10.
If garage doors are installed without a frame, on poles, their replacement occurs in several stages:
- Opening the doors all the way.
- Removing the canvases from the hinges.
- Removing hinges (if necessary).
- Cleaning surfaces from rust, eliminating possible damage. Treatment with anti-corrosion compounds.
- Welding new hinges.
- Hanging and adjusting sashes.
Adjustment in case of misalignment
Skewed gates are a problem in older garages. At some point, the doors stop closing and cling to each other and to the ground. Among the main reasons for such malfunctions are the following:
- Poor quality welding when installing the gate.
- Subsidence of the soil, the presence of trees nearby, whose roots can swell the foundation.
- Material corrosion.
As a result of the problems described above, the gate leaves sag and become deformed. The load on the hinges and the opening mechanism increases, as a result of which the gate stops opening.
To fix the problem and prevent similar situations from occurring in the future, you must perform the following operations:
Additional stiffening ribs are installed around the perimeter. These are transverse metal crossbars that strengthen the structure. Their installation proceeds as follows:
- From profile pipe, fittings or other suitable building materials, blanks are cut. The size of each corresponds to the distance between the opposite frame posts. Stiffening ribs can be horizontal or vertical; therefore, before making them, you need to measure the distance between the horizontal or vertical crossbars of the frame.
- The workpiece is placed on the canvas and adjusted according to the level and construction angle. Its ends should be adjacent to the frame posts or a few millimeters behind them.
- Stiffening ribs are welded using welding machine to the frame. They can be attached to the canvas using standard metal screws.
During long-term and active use of garage doors, it is necessary to monitor the position of the hinges, adjust them if necessary, and replace them in case of significant wear.
Garage doors must open, close and allow vehicles to pass through without hindrance.
When independently attaching hinges to swing gates and subsequent adjustments, you need to take into account several nuances:
- The weld seam that is formed when welding the hinge must be directed exclusively upward.
- Welding occurs with small tacks, twice on each side alternately.
- All elements are welded flush to the rectangular garage door post.
- Before work, it is recommended to make a small backing for the bottom of the loop. Its length is equal to half the fastening element. The top of the substrate is grabbed from the end.
- Before welding the gate hinges from the inside, you need to check how easily the doors open and close. If the gate does not operate correctly, it is additionally processed by welding from the outside.
- Before the gate is finally secured, the doors are closed. To avoid sagging, a small stand is placed under the middle of each sash.
The gates open only some time after the end of work. This is necessary for the loops to cool down. When heated, the metal is very fragile and subject to deformation. If you overload the structure too early, all the work will have to start again.
If your overhead gate is jammed, the reason is in the opening system. In the simplest case, it is enough to lubricate the roller mechanism with oil to ensure the best sliding of the door along the guides. It is also possible that individual parts, such as the shaft or spring, may be damaged. Faulty elements are replaced with new ones that are identical in functionality.
Video: Insulating garage doors
Despite the fact that self-insulation and garage door repairs do not require specific skills, remember: the health of your iron friend depends on how carefully the work is done. If you have any doubts about performing a particular operation, it is better to consult a specialist.
Many owners of private lands pay special attention their arrangement, independently inventing various useful gizmos.
One of such products is yard gates, which to some extent act as the face of any private plot.
For DIY production, standard swing gates are best suited. But in order to make a really good structure that will last for many years, you should carefully prepare a reliable foundation.
For yard swing gates, this design element is decisive. The fact is that the evenness and normal functioning of the sashes depends on the strength of the foundation.
If you make an unreliable underground foundation during the construction of the gate, after some time during use, the supports will first begin to sag and tilt, and then become loose.
As a result, deformation of the entire structure will occur.
To prevent this from happening, you need to pay special attention to preparation. monolithic foundation, which is made using special construction technology.
A good foundation for a home gate is carefully reinforced with crushed stone and cement mortar underground bases of pillars or the entire underground space in the area where the structure is located.
Today there are several types of such foundations:
- Fundamental strengthening of supports. First, measurements are taken and holes are dug in the places designated for the support pillars. Then racks in the form of metal pipes are installed level in them and the recesses are filled and strengthened with cement mortar. This is the simplest type of foundation.
For greater reliability, many craftsmen line pipes facing bricks. In this case, in certain places, special holders are welded to the pipe for future fastening of the loops.
If necessary, the internal base of the brick pillar is strengthened with reinforcement from iron rods and filled with mortar.
- Solid trench type foundation. This type of underground gate base device is the most reliable. In this case, not only holes are dug for the load-bearing supports, but a solid trench is dug along the entire length of the gate. The oblong recess is reinforced from the inside with reinforcing mesh, then in certain places, support pillars are installed in separate holes at a vertical level. As a result, the entire trench is filled with crushed stone and filled with cement mixture.
Each of these types of foundations is prepared based on size and weight general design gate If you are planning to make small swing gates up to 5 meters wide and up to 2 meters high, you can choose the first option and simply strengthen the support pillars.
If you want to make a massive metal gate with a wicket up to 10 meters wide, you better dig a trench and prepare a solid solid foundation.
We make the foundation ourselves
The durability of your swing gates will depend not only on the quality of the materials you use to construct the product itself, but also on the properly prepared foundation.
Therefore, when building the foundation you will need detailed drawing. If you will be strengthening the pillars, it will suit you standard scheme, which is presented below.
For a more solid continuous trench foundation, you can use the drawing below for clarity.
Having decided on the structure of the fundamental foundation that is most suitable for you, you will need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools for work, which should include:
- building level and tape measure;
- shovel and hand drill (if necessary);
- concrete mixer or electric drill with a “mixer” attachment;
- crushed stone;
- three or two metal pipes the right size, with a diameter of at least 10 cm;
- sand;
- water;
- fittings;
- welding machine (if necessary);
- brick (if necessary);
- cement.
Now you can get to work. First you need to take measurements and dig holes for support posts or dig a trench, it all depends on what type of foundation you want to use.
The depth of the pits should be at least 1 meter, and the diameter should be 10 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipes themselves. The same parameters apply to the trench; it should be 1 meter deep and 10 cm wide on both sides from the edges of the support pipes.
If you make a trench, you will still need to make recesses for the posts at the bottom.
Now it’s time to thoroughly compact the bottom of the recesses and fill them with sand so that the cushion is at least 5-10 cm. After this, install the pipes in the openings, measuring the vertical with a building level.
If you are simply strengthening the supports, fill the holes up to half the depth with crushed stone, and then start making the building mixture.
To do this, pour cement and sand into a container in a ratio of 1:3, add water in a proportion of at least 25% of the total mass. For greater strength, you can add a little crushed stone to the mixture.
Now use a concrete mixer or electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the solution thoroughly. Let it sit for a few minutes.
After cement mixture ready, fill the remaining recesses at the bases of the pipes with it. The simplest foundation for strengthening the supports is almost ready; now all that remains is to wait a few days until it dries and, if necessary, cover the supports with facing bricks.
After this, you can install the gate.
If you are using a trench base for your swing gates, you will need to prepare the reinforcement before installing the posts. To do this, take the required number of metal rods of a certain size, weld them together using a welding machine to form an oblong, rectangular parallelepiped.
Now install the resulting frame in the trench and insert the pillars into the holes, filling them with building mixture.
Then fill the entire trench with cement mortar and wait a few days for it to dry. This foundation arrangement will serve you for a long time.
So, taking into account all these features, you can build an excellent foundation for swing gates.
The main thing is to take high-quality measurements, check the verticals of the supports with a building level and do not violate the sequence of actions.
Swing gates can be considered an ideal design, if not for one significant drawback - the tendency to close spontaneously at the slightest gust of wind. The result is scratches and dents on your favorite car, and sometimes even injuries of varying severity on the body of their owner.
Allows you to avoid troubles simple devices– clamps for sashes, which are popularly called stops. Those who have not realized the need to use them can prop up swing gates with any object that comes to hand, or go to the store for a ready-made stopper. Or you can strain your own mind and make supports with your own hands.
Stoppers-constipations
The simplest and favorite option for home craftsmen. The stop works much the same as an old-fashioned window latch, but is much larger in size. Such a device is not yet commercially produced, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. For this you will need:
- two steel tubes (one for each swing gate leaf) about 15 cm long and 1.6 cm in diameter;
- steel plates 10 cm wide and 15 cm long;
- pins that fit freely into the pipe, at least 20 cm long.
The entire process of making a retainer with your own hands consists of several stages:
- Steel tubes are welded to the plates and then attached to the bottom of the gate. For doors sheathed in wood, this is done using self-tapping screws; the plate is simply welded to metal doors.
- A lever is welded to the upper end of the pin at a right angle, playing the role of a handle, or simply a pin, preheated at gas burner, which bends and is inserted into the pipe.
- Now we open the sash and find a place where it will be necessary to drive the reciprocal part of our “latch” to a depth of about 30 cm. We take into account that the pin must fit into it at least 10 cm. Do not forget that the gate leaf may be located slightly higher than the entrance level.
- To prevent the pin from interfering with opening the swing gate, we weld a hook above the lock on which the handle of the pin will rest.
But keep in mind the disadvantages of this device. The return pipe into which the pin should be lowered may be covered with snow in winter and will have to be dug out, which is not always time. You can do without a mating part, but in this case the ends of the pins must be pointed. Such a latch will, of course, be less reliable than the original version, but in extreme cases it will do. If not steel pipes the desired diameter, you can slightly modify the device. Replace it with two or three loops. The result is a simple but quite effective design.
Stops on carabiners
An original and cheap solution to the DIY problem. For implementation you will need (for each swing gate):
- cargo sling with a metal hook at the end;
- small carabiner;
- eye bolt with M8 thread.
The tools you need are a drill with an F7 drill, an M8 tap and a wrench for it, and any adhesive-sealant. If you have experience using the above tools, then installing the clamp will take no more than half an hour. The process will consist of the following steps:
- Two holes are drilled on the inside of the frame at the same height, and threads are cut into them.
- The eye bolts are coated with sealant and screwed into the prepared holes.
- Carabiners are put on eye bolts, and cargo slings are threaded through them.
The hooks may be caught on the adjacent garage door. But nothing prevents you from using a bracket attached to the fence post or wall. You can attach it to any nearby strong structure and get a cheap and reliable stop, devoid of the disadvantages of a locking lock. Unfortunately, the appearance of this device is not very attractive, which many may consider a significant disadvantage.
Hook retainer for aesthetes
A very simple device, but it does its job perfectly. It has a respectable appearance and even allows you to fix swing gate leaves in two or more positions. For manufacturing you need (for both doors):
- metal corners 50 mm long, 80 cm and 15 cm;
- steel rod with a cross-sectional diameter of 12 mm, approximately 1.2 meters long;
- welding machine, self-tapping screws, drill, vice.
Now let’s do a few simple steps:
- In the larger corner, which will act as a hinge, three holes are drilled on one side for fastening to the gate frame. On the other side, there are two holes at the edges, of such a diameter that the end of a steel rod can fit freely into them.
- Now the most difficult part is making the hook. One side of the heated steel rod is bent into a ring (don't forget to leave a gap so that the hook can be put on the canopy!). The other side is given a U-shape. It's difficult, but quite possible.
- Now a canopy is made from a smaller corner, for which two holes are drilled in it on one side for fastening to the sash, and in the middle of the other side - one hole for fixing the hook.
- We fix the corners so that the larger one is on the gate frame and the smaller one is on the leaf. You can use self-tapping screws for these purposes (for wooden gates) or welding (for metal). We put the hook on the canopy and finally bend the ring.
That's all, the length of the hook and the location of the holes will have to be calculated empirically, experimenting with gate leaves. The result is a simple but reliable DIY stop. It will allow you to open the gate completely or leave the swing gate ajar.
Stopper
A simple device that can be used by anyone whose gate is lined with wood. To make it yourself you will need wooden block and a window hinge. One end of the loop is rigidly fixed to the end of the bar, the other is movably attached to the gate leaf.
You can also make a metal analogue of this device, consisting of a pipe movably attached to the sash. In the non-working position, the pipe rises upward and is held in place by a rope loop. To fix the gate, just lower the pipe. To increase the support area, the top of the pipe should be cut at an angle.
Latch-trap with pawl and spring
A more complex device, which has the advantage that it allows the gate to be locked automatically. It consists:
The pipe with the pawl is attached to required distance from the wall. The bracket is attached to the gate leaf. The principle of operation is quite simple. When the sash moves, the bracket attached to it lifts the pawl, which then lowers and securely fixes the sash.
A similar device can be placed at the bottom of the gate, but you will have to equip it with a spring. It will return the dog to a horizontal position. To close the gate later, simply lower the pawl with your foot.
Latch-trap without spring
To make it, you will need a thick steel plate, which needs to be bent on one side and a handle welded to the curved end. A steel rod is welded to the bottom of the plate, which is subsequently inserted into brackets fixedly fixed to the ground.
Important condition! For the stop to work correctly, it is necessary that the flat part of the plate be much longer, and therefore heavier, than the curved section. Then the gate leaf, when moving with its mass, will lower the curved end of the plate. Afterwards, the remaining flat part will lower under its own weight, lift the curved end with the handle and fix the gate. To close the swing gate, simply lower the handle down.
The described clamps are not all options for do-it-yourself wind stoppers for swing gates. Perhaps the devices described will serve as an impetus for your imagination, and you will come up with your own original way solving the problem. And we can only wish good luck to the master!