How to insulate garage doors and openings. How to make garage door insulation with your own hands. Sealing the sashes is the finishing touch in the insulation process

Often, car owners’ concern for their four-wheeled pet is expressed even more strongly than for themselves. And the construction of a well-equipped and high-quality insulated garage is one of the manifestations of such reverent care. The issue of insulating the garage from the inside comes first here. And since the main source of leakage of such precious heat is the garage door leaf, the need arises to decide how to properly insulate garage doors.

It doesn’t matter what the garage space is used for: parking a car, storing things, a workshop, or anything else. The important thing is that it always remains warm. In this publication, we will tell you exactly how to keep the garage warm by insulating its doors. And let's start, perhaps, with a description of the main mistakes that many car enthusiasts make when they acquire a garage and equip it.

• Ventilation. Availability of good ventilation system necessary in any room, and the garage is no exception. Alas, not everyone realizes this. Many people think like this: ventilation holes are an extra source of heat leaving the garage. In essence, this is true. However, their presence is necessary to avoid excess dampness in this room.

• Metal gate design. Many owners of a car home (which, in essence, is a garage), when setting up a garage, install gate leaves of a solid structure, without a gate. Meanwhile, the gate will allow you to achieve less heat loss during the cold season. Whether it’s the case, when we want to get into the garage in winter, we open a small gate for a few seconds, or we have to open a large gate to do this. The difference, as you can see, is obvious. True, these doors will also have to be insulated. Their insulation is carried out similarly to the insulation of the door leaf.

• Insulation. When deciding how to insulate a garage door, many owners, in an effort to save on insulation, use porous insulation. An example of such an insulating material is mineral wool. The reason why such materials should not be used is the following: most often, garage doors are an iron frame with the same door leaf. Moreover, the thickness of the latter does not exceed a few millimeters. Because of this, during the cold season, condensation may form on the inner surface of the canvas due to temperature differences. Porous insulation absorbs this condensate quite well, as a result of which they lose their main qualities.

Materials

Now let's look at the question of how to insulate garage doors to ensure maximum thermal insulation. Actually, 4 materials are most often used for these purposes:

1. Mineral wool;
2. Extruded foam;
3. Polyurethane foam;
4. Foam plastic.

Each of these 4 materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. As for mineral wool, as we already wrote above, it is not particularly suitable for insulating garage doors. Polyurethane foam is quite expensive, and not everyone wants to spend a lot of money on a garage. Extruded foam, although it costs less than polyurethane foam, is still not affordable for everyone.

Based on this, let's consider insulation garage doors using polystyrene foam. Although he is quite afraid of fire, taking into account the ratio of the area of ​​the garage door to the area of ​​the rest of the surface of the garage, insulating the garage door with polystyrene foam is quite acceptable.

Preparing for insulation

To insulate a garage door with polystyrene foam, you must complete the following steps:

Before you insulate your garage door, its inside surface must be cleaned. This is done using an iron brush. Particularly large and deep areas of metal corrosion on garage doors can be cleaned using a brush attachment on a drill. After which you need to seal and, if necessary, weld all the cracks and holes on the surface of the gate.

To prevent further formation of corrosion foci, it is necessary to treat the cleaned surface of the gate with some kind of anti-corrosion agent or antiseptic. For these purposes it is quite suitable means is heated drying oil, or even better bitumen mastic. It is applied with a regular wide paint brush in two layers, perpendicular to one another.

After the anti-corrosion coating has dried, it is necessary to create a paving sheathing. It will become the basis for laying and securing insulation from foam boards. This lathing is made from bars with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50 millimeters. The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on the width of the end corners of the gate.

It is desirable that the bars are solid. The dimensions of the sheathing cells should be selected in such a way that they match as closely as possible. The sheathing must be attached to the end corners of the gate. To do this, holes of 4 mm diameter are pre-drilled in the latter. The pitch between such holes should not exceed 200-250 millimeters. Next, the sheathing bars are fastened through the drilled holes with self-tapping screws.

If the design of the garage door is such that it does not imply the possibility of removing the gate from the hinges, a slight problem may arise with attaching the sheathing bar to the lower end corner due to the inability to reach there with a screwdriver or even an ordinary screwdriver. In this case, the block must be secured exclusively at the end. By the way, it is also better to treat the bars with some kind of antiseptic before fixing them. If there are locks, bolts or a ventilation hole on the gate or wicket, the sheathing must bypass these elements.

When the inner surface of the door is cleaned, treated with anti-corrosion and antiseptic agents, and the lathing is securely fastened, you can begin insulating the garage door with your own hands using polystyrene foam. What does it mean to insulate a garage door with foam? This means covering as much of the gate's surface area as possible with foam. If the dimensions of the sheathing cells do not correspond to the dimensions of the foam plastic slabs, then these same slabs must be adjusted to the size of the cells, using a penknife or an ordinary, but thoroughly sharpened knife along a ruler.

The slabs are cut into pieces based on the width of the cell plus 2-3 millimeters. The same goes for heights. This is done so that the foam boards fit into the cells of the sheathing as tightly as possible.

This installation system will help solve two problems:

1. The foam insulation will be securely clamped between the sheathing bars, which will eliminate the possibility of it sagging and falling out. In this case, no additional seal for the garage door will be needed.
2. Thanks to such a dense laying of the foam, the insulating effect increases significantly. In this case, no additional sealing is required either.

For additional fixation of foam boards, you can use them as glue. polyurethane foam. However, insulating gates with polyurethane foam is a very risky business. Why is this so? Let us explain: when drying, polyurethane foam tends to expand, creating pressure on the foam board and pushing it out of the sheathing cell. Therefore, for more convenient and comfortable fixation, we recommend using specially designed for such purposes.

As for polyurethane foam, you also cannot do without it. This product is ideal for sealing gaps between the sheathing and insulation, if any. This is where its expansion properties come in handy. In this case, the foam, expanding, not only presses the insulation against the sheathing frame, but this also achieves better sealing of the insulated surface, for example, swing gates. After drying, excess foam must be trimmed flush (level) with the sheathing frame.

As additional measures For insulation, you can lay a seal for garage doors. This, in fact, rubber or silicone gasket is attached to the ends between the gate leaves. This ensures a tighter fit of the ends of the garage doors to each other, which prevents the penetration of cold air masses into the garage. Such seals are fastened using perforated metal strip and self-tapping screws.

The final stage of insulating garage doors with your own hands is their surface cladding.

To cover the gate, you can use OSB sheets, plastic or wooden lining or profiled sheet. Each of these facing materials has both its plus and minus. Let's take a brief look at them, and at the same time decide what is better to sheathe garage doors.

• Wooden lining. Is one of the most beautiful and practical solutions for facing the door leaf. However, they require pre-treatment any fire retardant and antiseptic.
• Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Beautiful looking, durable and rot-resistant material. Can be painted or glued.
• Plastic lining. Easy to install and looks attractive. But the strength of this cladding material leaves much to be desired.
• Profile iron sheet. Durable, practical and durable material. However, as experienced garage owners assure, it is better not to cover the door leaf with a profile sheet. The reason for this is a fairly high probability of condensation forming on the side where the insulation is located.

As you can see, of the above facing materials, OSB is the most optimal. Therefore, if you are deciding how and how to insulate garage doors from the inside with your own hands and what to cover them with, oriented strand boards are the optimal material for this.

The optimal board for cladding gates is OSB.

In conclusion of all of the above, we would like to once again point out the importance of the fact that you need to approach the question of how to insulate a garage door with your own hands with full responsibility. A high-quality and reliably insulated garage door with your own hands is a guarantee of a constant acceptable temperature, and therefore the longevity of your mobile vehicle.

A garage is a place to park a car, protecting equipment from bad weather, and a workshop if the car needs repairs. Some residents store equipment, summer supplies for the winter, and old things in this room. For a comfortable stay in this room you need to insulate it.

Many people have no idea how to insulate a garage door from the inside. You can do this work with your own hands, following special instructions described below.

Preparing for work

There is an option that is easy to use, but very expensive - buy a garage door model with built-in insulation and interior decoration. Insulating your garage door yourself will cost much less.

This does not require construction education or experience in finishing works, and it will take a little time to insulate. Let's look at how to properly insulate a garage door with your own hands, with all the nuances.

Garage doors are made mainly from sheet steel, so they cannot retain heat in the room. It is not advisable to heat an uninsulated room, since you can get condensation in the room and ice on the walls and gates in severe frosts. Before sheathing the garage door, purchase the material you will use to insulate the garage door.

What material should I use?

Can be applied different insulation materials, the cheapest and most effective option would be to insulate garage doors with polystyrene foam.

• Foam plastic has a small specific gravity, so no load will be placed on the structure. The material has low thermal conductivity, is environmentally friendly, lasts more than 50 years and does not absorb water. To install thermal insulation, no special tools are needed, since the foam sheet can be easily cut with a simple stationery knife.
• Stone wool(basalt) – fire-resistant fibrous material with high moisture resistance. Can be used in any room for sound and heat insulation, does not emit harmful substances. This material is easy to use. Sold in rolls.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the varieties of polystyrene foam, having the same composition. This material has lower thermal conductivity due to its increased density, and has different degrees of flammability, which are indicated on the packaging. To insulate garage doors, you need to use the NG or G1 brand. This material has a drawback: it is destroyed in the sun, so it requires additional finishing.
• Liquid penoizol- a material that is sprayed from a cylinder and is able to fill all the cracks and bridges of cold. It sets in 15 minutes, hardens within 4 hours, and final strength occurs after three days. The advantage is ease of use, good thermal insulation qualities, and non-flammability. The insulation is seamless, no need to rack your brains about how to seal the gaps between the sheets of material.

It is better to order a garage door with a gate; if it is not provided, then it is better to equip it before the start of insulation work. The gate will help retain heat in the room during renovation work.

Insulation tool

Before you insulate your garage door, you need to prepare the tools necessary for this process:

• screwdriver or drill;
• core;
• screwdrivers;
• square;
• level;
• hard brush;
• sandpaper;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• construction knife.

Almost every owner has this set of tools.

Finishing materials

Even before starting work, you need to decide how to cover the garage door:

• lining;
• corrugated sheeting;
• plywood, moisture resistant;
• PVC panels.

Based on practice, it can be noted that oriented strand board (OSB) has many advantages:

• strength and reliability;
• easy to process;
• does not require additional vapor barrier;
• moisture resistant;
• has an attractive appearance;
• It's inexpensive.

This material is suitable for rooms with high humidity.

To make a frame for insulation, you need to prepare bars with a cross-section of 40 mm, which are pre-treated with special antiseptic compounds to prevent rotting.

Preparing gates for insulation

Before you insulate your garage door, you need to preliminary preparation. Inspect your swing garage doors for rust and peeling paint. They need to be cleaned well, rust is removed using coarse sandpaper, paint with a stiff wire brush. Next, the entire surface is treated with fine-grained sandpaper for better adhesion.

The next step is to treat the surface with a degreasing solution. After complete drying, anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers. It is worth noting that the second layer of primer is applied after the first has dried and perpendicular to it.

After the primer comes waterproofing, it is equipped if polystyrene foam is used as insulation; with other materials it is not necessary. Bituminous mastic is easy to use; it is used to carefully coat the door leaf, and it is advisable to glue vapor barrier membranes to it. You can use self-adhesive material "Izolon"

Lathing

When insulating the gate from the inside with your own hands, you must strictly adhere to the instructions described below - this will help you avoid making fatal mistakes.

Lathing - installation of bars, pre-cut to the size of the gate leaf. It is desirable that the bars are solid. No need to neglect the framing of the bolts and ventilation holes along the perimeter.

Before installing the bars, you need to mark the door leaf and tilt the places where the holes for fastenings will be located. The step between the screws should be no more than 25 centimeters. You need to pre-drill holes with a 4 mm drill in the pre-designated locations.

The bars are screwed with self-tapping screws (wood-metal) of the required length. To do this, use a screwdriver. The bars should be 60 centimeters from each other - this distance is just right for the width of the foam layer.

Installation of foam plastic

Insulation of swing garage doors with foam plastic begins with marking and cutting the material. The layers must be cut in such a way that the foam fits tightly between the sheathing. The cutting line must be smooth and vertical, so the use of a flexible blade is unacceptable.

It is worth noting that you do not need to use foam plastic fasteners when installing it, since it will be absorbed by the finishing material. But for reliability, you can use special silicate glue or polyurethane foam, which can also be used for sealing seams and cracks.

Advice: you need to buy material taking into account the sheathing and its location on the swing garage door leaf, otherwise there will be a lot of scraps. You can use polystyrene foam for insulation, then you don’t need additional waterproofing, and it’s easier to work with - it doesn’t crumble. The only drawback is the high cost.

Stone wool insulating gates

This process is how to insulate a garage door from the inside stone wool It won't be difficult even for a beginner. This good insulation, having an aluminum film on one side, which reflects 97% heat. Mounted directly on the door leaf using mounting adhesive. On the garage side, the insulation must be protected with any facing material.

Application of expanded polystyrene

For garage doors, many people use insulation such as polystyrene foam, which has good insulating qualities. The installation method is the same as when installing foam plastic.

Insulation of gates with foam insulation

It is not possible to insulate garage doors with your own hands using liquid foam insulation - for this you will need special equipment and qualified builders. The material is sprayed in several layers by a spray machine. The lathing for this method is mounted as in the previous case; it will be needed to attach the finishing trim.

This method has large number advantages:

• does not change its properties over time;
• excellent adhesion;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• no cold bridges remain when applied;
• does not require installation of vapor barrier;
• service life 70 years.

Application of polyurethane foam

Once the layers of insulation are installed, you need to carefully seal the cracks. Optimal and simple option The garage doors will be insulated with polyurethane foam; all voids and cracks will be filled with it.

It's better to buy professional material under the gun, this will help to significantly save material, since the gun helps to accurately distribute the foam in the right amount. Foam tends to expand, thereby filling all voids. As soon as the foam has dried, it is cut flush with the insulation.

How to cover the gaps between the base and the insulation? To do this, you can use Izolon, a self-adhesive material used as additional insulation and vapor barrier.

When insulating, the door leaf is often lined with penofol before installing the sheathing. This is an innovative, non-flammable, easy-to-use insulating material.

Insulation of gaps

When insulating gates, there are gaps between the door leaf and the slopes, into which water can penetrate from the street. cold air. For complete tightness, these cold bridges must be eliminated without fail. For this purpose, inserts and thresholds are used.

Vinyl inserts cope well with this problem. They are used to paste over the edges of the gate, having previously covered them with two layers of paint. For better adhesion, there are special notches on the inside of the inserts.

Before installing the inserts under the threshold, the space is first cleared of dust and dirt. The material is fixed using a special mounting adhesive.

Insulating a garage gate

Before insulating a garage door, the surface is prepared. It needs to be done in the same way as when insulating large swing gates. Waterproofing and vapor barrier are installed.

After this, the sheathing is mounted using pre-prepared bars. First of all, they are screwed around the perimeter of the gate. Then you need to cut out a block equal in size to the diagonal line of the gate and screw it with self-tapping screws. The sheathing is ready, it needs to be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting.

In the case of a gate, the insulation is cut in the shape of two triangles and inserted tightly into the sheathing. All cracks are foamed as described above.

Finishing the gate after insulation

As soon as the insulation of the sheets with your own hands is completed, the question arises - how to cover the garage doors. There are a lot of options, you can use:

• Railcar - which is an inexpensive environmentally friendly material. She has a presentable appearance, she tolerates temperature changes well, and is resistant to mechanical damage. Gates, swing gates, insulated, and finished with clapboard have an aesthetic appearance. It is mounted on wood screws to the gate frame.
• PVC panels are easy to maintain, installation is not difficult, and have a long service life. But there is a drawback, this material beats blows and mechanical damage. The panels are mounted on the sheathing using a construction stapler.

• moisture-resistant plywood is a material with excellent characteristics in terms of ecology and technical qualities, the only negative is its high cost.
• OSB panel – High quality, inexpensive material for carrying out cladding work on garage doors, which even professionals recommend using.

The material is mounted on the sheathing using self-tapping screws. Before installation on garage doors, swinging ones need to cut the sheets to size, trying to eliminate large amounts of scraps. OSB has excellent characteristics, but to increase its service life it needs to be treated with special compounds or painted.

In conclusion

As you can see, the work of insulation is painstaking, but not complicated, and if you do it according to all the rules, then insulated garage doors will protect the room where the car is located from winter frosts.

It is worth considering one more important nuance - you should not use material such as mineral wool to insulate garage doors. The fact is that it absorbs moisture, which, when frozen, almost completely deprives the material of its thermal insulation abilities. This fact also applies to glass wool.

Do not forget that when cold and warm air a dew point appears - condensation, which, if the insulation is installed incorrectly, can reduce all work to zero. Now you know how to properly insulate a garage door and can do it yourself.

Source: //teplota.guru/teploizolyatsiya/nyuansy-utepleniya-garazhnyh-vorot.html

Insulating garage doors - choosing insulation and sequence of work

Insulating the garage door is a very important measure, without which this room will be extremely uncomfortable in winter.

In a frozen garage, the parts of a car engine wear out more during startup, and it takes longer to warm it up (due to thickening of the oil), the service life of rubber elements is reduced, and if the basement is supposed to be used as a vegetable storage, then you simply cannot do without insulation. How exactly to do this and what material is best to use?

What types of garage doors need to be insulated?

First of all, you need to find out whether insulation can be installed on your garage door, and whether it is necessary at all. The answer to this question will depend on their design. The most widespread are 5 varieties.

Swing gates

The simplest option, which occurs most often. The gate consists of two leaves, suspended on hinges like regular doors.

Each sash consists of a rigid, durable frame ( profile pipe) and a steel sheet welded to it.

Through such gates, heat evaporates without being retained, so they must be insulated without fail.

Their design does not prevent this at all - you can install insulation of any type and thickness.

Sliding or sliding gates

This type of gate consists of a single leaf, which slides to the side along a guide. They usually have the same design as swing doors - a steel sheet on a frame.

They can and should also be insulated, but the thickness of the heat insulator is limited - it should not protrude beyond the frame.

Sectional

The leaf of this gate is composite: it is made up of several horizontal strips with a hinge connection. When opened, the canvas, bending at the hinges, moves up and inward along the guides and eventually takes a horizontal position under the ceiling.

For self-made the design of these gates is too complex - they are made in factories and insulated right at the production stage.

Sectional doors

Each strip is a so-called sandwich - a 3-layer structure consisting of steel sheathing and insulation located inside. But the user, if necessary, can perform additional insulation by attaching a heat insulator to the inside. Only it will have to be trimmed a little so that the sections do not rest against one another when closing.

Up and over gates

They open in the same way as sectional ones, only the sash is solid. Used in garages with sufficient ceiling height. Such systems also almost always have factory version and 3-layer insulated construction. If desired, they can also be additionally insulated, but you need to take into account the location of the drive and guides.

Rolling gates

They are very similar to sectional ones, only there are many more sections (here they are called slats) and they are very narrow. This is the only type of garage door that cannot be additionally insulated - when opening, the door leaf is wound onto the drum and if there is even the thinnest heat insulator on it, the system will simply jam.

Roller type gate

Choice of insulation

The most important characteristics of thermal insulators are thermal conductivity and price: both should be as low as possible. In the best possible way This requirement is met by two materials: mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool

Being an effective heat insulator, this material also has a number of positive qualities:

• is absolutely environmentally friendly (the fibers are a frozen melt of natural stone);
• does not rot and is not affected by rodents (biological stability);
• does not burn.

It should be noted, however, that all these advantages, except for biological stability, are not of particular value in a garage environment.

But the disadvantage of mineral wool is its hygroscopicity (actively absorbs water with loss thermal insulation properties) – becomes especially noticeable here.

Foam plastic

In fact, this term can be used to describe any foamed polymer, but we will talk about the most common type in everyday life - expanded polystyrene.

This material is inferior in some ways to mineral wool:

• when exposed to heat, it can release volatile substances harmful to health;
• burns well and emits very toxic smoke;
• is a treat for mice.

Garage doors after insulation with foam plastic

But in the garage these shortcomings are not so significant. But the advantage of polystyrene foam - its absolute moisture resistance - in this case can be safely put at the forefront. Therefore, this material is more suitable for insulating a garage.

How to insulate garage doors from the inside?

At first glance, it may seem that it is enough to simply glue the foam to the inside of the gate. But with this method of insulation, the canvas will quickly be eaten away by rust: moisture will always be present in the gap between it and the insulation, condensing when warm garage air comes into contact with cold steel.

The owner will find out that the metal has rotted at the last moment, since the defects will be hidden for the time being by foam plastic. There is only one way to prevent such a nuisance: completely isolate the metal sheet from the internal space.

Internal thermal insulation

To do this, do the following:

1. A frame made of wooden blocks is tightly screwed to the frames of the shutters.
2. Foam boards are placed in the frame.
3. Cover the frame with some kind of insulation sheet material.

With this design, moist air will not be able to penetrate under the heat insulator, therefore, the gate will not “sweat”. And the foam will be reliably protected from mice.

Preparing the gate surface

Before starting work, the gate must be cleaned of dirt and thoroughly inspected. If rust or peeling paint is found, they need to be cleaned off with a wire brush or drill with a special attachment. Next, the entire surface is treated with a degreaser and coated with an anti-corrosion primer.

For greater reliability, the canvas can be coated with a waterproofing compound (for example, bitumen mastic).

The sheathing should be assembled from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 40x40 mm. Here's what the process looks like:

1. All wooden elements treated in two layers with antifungal impregnation. It is important to take into account that all such compositions are toxic, so they should be applied using personal protection. Upon completion of processing, the bars are left alone until completely dry.
2. Now the bars need to be cut into parts the right size. You will need pieces of different lengths, because the frame must go around the locks and ventilation holes, if any.
3. In the frame of each sash along the entire perimeter, in increments of 200 - 250 mm, drill through holes with a diameter of 4 mm. If you plan to fasten the frame with self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, the holes will need to be drilled to a depth of 1 - 1.5 mm with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.
4. Now each frame part needs to be installed in place, pressing it to the sash frame with a clamp.
5. Through the holes in the frame, we drill holes for fasteners in the bars using a 2-mm wood drill. Self-tapping screws must have a zinc coating and such a working length that they fit at least halfway into the bars. Having prepared the mounting holes, the bars are screwed to the frame.

Finished sheathing for insulation

In the same way, the intermediate vertical frame elements should be fixed in increments corresponding to the width of the foam boards (usually 500 mm).

Do-it-yourself insulation of garage doors: sequence of work

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation. Since the frame will be sheathed in the future, the foam does not need to be attached. For convenience, it can be secured with “liquid nails” glue or polyurethane foam. Foam is also used to fill cracks if they remain in some places.

If the foam board is several millimeters wider than the gap between the frame elements, you should not squeeze it in with force. Being compressed, this material will partially lose its thermal insulation properties.

Ready-made insulation option with cladding

Inner surface lining

The frame can be covered with any sheet material. They use plastic, chipboard panels (OSB), fiberboard or plywood. Since garage doors have to be opened not only in dry weather, but also in slush, moisture-resistant materials are most preferable for cladding - plastic, OSB-3 or OSB-4.

The sheet material must be either solid or cut so that the joints between in separate fragments were on bars. Don't forget to make cutouts for the lock and ventilation holes. When screwing the sheets, self-tapping screws are screwed in increments of 120 - 150 mm on the frame frame installed around the perimeter, and 200 mm on the intermediate elements.

Additional insulation measures

What other measures will help reduce heat loss? Here are some effective techniques:

1. Garage curtain: This option is good if the sash still has to be opened for one reason or another. The curtain can be made of tarpaulin or any other sufficiently dense and durable material. It is hung as usual - on a metal string using rings with hooks or hooks.
2. Insulation of gate leaves: a fair amount of heat is also lost through the gaps between the gate leaves and the frame of the opening. They can be closed by attaching a vinyl or rubber strip around the perimeter of the doors.

The presence of a wicket in the gate leaf helps to retain heat.

on the topic

Source: //microklimat.pro/uteplenie/garazha/vorot.html

Insulation of the garage from the inside, gates, shelves, ceilings, do it yourself

Storing a personal car in an outdoor garage requires additional measures to insulate the building, since changes in humidity and temperature will lead not only to corrosion of the body of your iron pet, but also to the destruction of the garage itself. The main flow of cold air always comes from the garage door, so insulating the garage door is a priority task that does not require delay.

Garage doors insulated with foam plastic

Solutions for insulating garages from different building materials

If the garage is built as a permanent building made of brick or concrete, then it often has autonomous heating installed in the form of a potbelly stove or liquid fuel boiler, but these measures for heating the room will be ineffective without additional thermal insulation of the garage and its gates, as well as windows, if any. Insulation measures are carried out for all surfaces of the object, without exception - these are the walls, the ceiling, the floor with an inspection hole (if there is one, and the basement), and do-it-yourself insulation of the garage door. A metal garage of the “shell” type needs to be insulated even more so.

Every car enthusiast knows that starting an engine at a temperature of -20°C and below is equivalent to driving 600 km, so the question of whether to insulate a metal garage (as well as a concrete, wooden or brick one) is not worthwhile in principle.

Only preserving the heat generated by the heating boiler will help preserve your car and garage. There are not so many options for insulation: these are internal, work, external insulation of the garage roof and other surfaces, and a combination of these options.

Graph of temperature fluctuations at external insulation garage

Since the facade of any garage is mostly gate doors, facade insulation will save the car from moisture and frost. Facade insulation of garage doors with foam plastic is suitable for wooden (frame-based), metal and permanent garages, as it shifts the dew point to the outer surface of the walls or ceiling.

If, for financial or other reasons, you choose internal insulation of the ceiling in the garage and its other surfaces, then you need to remember that this is not enough for a metal structure - it is advisable to insulate the iron garage from the outside in order to move the dew point beyond the boundaries of the thermal barriers, which, in turn, turn, will not allow condensation to form inside the walls.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdCG7eJzsf8

A garage made of concrete or brick also ideally requires external insulation, but a good effect can be achieved if the garage is insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam. Polystyrene foam as a heat insulator is an excellent material, and its only drawback is flammability, which should be taken into account when using an insulating layer made of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam.

Internal insulation of garage with foam plastic

A detached garage is an object in which heat leakage can occur on any surface, and the roof is no exception, so insulation of the garage roof should be considered in conjunction with other measures for laying thermal insulation. Which roof insulation option to choose depends on the design of the roof itself:

1. A pitched, flat, or roof with a small slope angle can be insulated by laying thermal insulation materials outside, and sheets of polystyrene or polystyrene foam are best suited for this purpose. To protect against moisture, the garage roof insulation is covered with roofing felt or other rolled waterproofing materials;
2. It is recommended to insulate a gable roof with mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam; the material is fixed in the space between the rafters and is advantageous in that the exact dimensions of the insulation do not need to be observed during installation, and the cracks and joints can be filled with the same insulation or polyurethane foam;
3. If the garage is built with an attic, then the easiest way to insulate the attic ceiling is with rolled glass wool and cover it with roofing felt.

In addition to insulating the attic ceiling, you can also insulate the garage ceiling, that is, it will work out ceiling, insulated on all sides. When insulating with mineral wool, a wooden frame is created; foam or polystyrene slabs can be attached to umbrella dowels.

An almost continuous layer of insulation means there are no “cold bridges” or cracks for the penetration of cold air flows. To secure this result, the ceiling is additionally protected from the inside with a vapor barrier (membrane film) and a layer of waterproofing.

Protecting the garage ceiling with a layer of vapor barrier

Before purchasing thermal insulation, you should decide on the insulation technology in order to choose the insulation correctly. Thus, it is advisable to insulate an iron garage by spraying polyurethane foam, but you can create a warm “pie” from polystyrene foam slabs.

A garage with walls made of cellular concrete will be warm enough if you plaster them with perlite plaster.

There are also cheaper and easier to implement insulation methods, and the leader in this list is foam insulation from the inside in 2 rows in checkerboard pattern to protect joints.

1. Let’s say you are insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands, an area of ​​30 m2 of walls, using foam plastic 100 mm thick;
2. Since the recommended technology is two layers, we take foam plastic 50 mm thick total area 60 m2. It is necessary to ensure a supply of material (waste, trimming), so we add 10% and get 66 m2;
3. The fewer insulation joints there are, the better, so we choose the largest PSB-S slabs measuring 1000 x 1000 mm in the amount of 66 units;
4. EPS boards are produced in a smaller area - 1200 x 600 mm, so foam insulation from the inside will require 120 sheets. If measured by packages, then, given that there are eight sheets in one package, you get 15 packages of EPS.

The foam is attached to the surface using construction foam glue to seal the joints.

The glue is sold in the form of a dry mixture, which must be mixed with water to the desired consistency, containers - 25 kg bags, dry mass consumption - up to 4 kg/m2. For our example, we will need 240 kg or 10 bags of adhesive mixture.

Polyurethane foam, based on the practice of its use, is consumed per 10 m2 - 1 cylinder. The foam is applied using a special mounting gun.

How to apply polyurethane foam correctly

Tools

Any insulation of a garage requires at least a minimum set of tools; their use depends on the insulation and the material of the insulated surfaces. If mineral wool can be easily cut with a construction cutter, then it is better to cut foam plastic with a steel wire so that it does not crumble.

To prepare the surfaces you will need:

1. Synthetic or metal brush;
2. Sander;
3. Spatula.

To secure the garage insulation from the inside with your own hands:

1. Screwdriver or electric drill;
2. Construction stapler and staples measuring 14-16 mm;
3. Foam gun, foam, glue and notched trowel for applying it.

Tools and materials for garage insulation

Insulation process

1. If the floor insulation is being done in a garage: first, a pit 50 cm deep is dug, roofing material is spread to the bottom, the joints of the rolls are covered with bitumen;
2. A layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick is poured, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top;
3. A concrete solution is poured to the edge of the pit.

Subsequent floor insulation is carried out using wooden joists:

1. A layer of insulating materials is laid between the joists - it is advisable to use a material with low water absorption. This may be low-density foam;
2. A one-sided membrane film is laid on the foam plastic, which will provide air access to the wood so that it does not rot. The film should not reach 100–150 mm to the edges of the beams;
3. A wooden frame made of 5-centimeter slats is attached to the logs, which is needed to allow air to enter the space between the insulation and the logs;
4. A subfloor made of edged boards 30-40 mm thick.

Insulating the floor in the garage

Any surfaces to be insulated are first cleaned of old coatings, dirt, grease and dust. Then the surfaces are leveled, the cracks are sealed according to the material, the surface is primed with deep penetration compounds. The insulation process is carried out in the following order:

1. A steel corner 40 x 40 mm or 50 x 50 mm is attached along the lower edge of the walls, which will serve as a guide for attaching the foam;
2. Dry glue mixture sealed with water and applied to foam boards with a brush, spatula or roller. Adhesive layer – up to 4 mm;
3. If the glue is purchased in cans, then it should be applied in small spots at the same distance from each other;
4. When gluing EPS boards, they should be laid from bottom to top with emphasis on the metal corner;
5. All upper rows of EPS are laid in a checkerboard pattern;
6. The seams between the plates must be filled with polyurethane foam or puttied with glue;
7. After 24-36 hours, the slabs are additionally strengthened with umbrella plastic dowels - 5 pieces per sheet;
8. The reinforcing mesh is not placed between the layers of foam plastic; it needs to be attached only to the top layer of EPS boards, using glue;
9. After the last layer of glue under the reinforced mesh has hardened, you can proceed to the decorative finishing of the surfaces.

Thermal insulation of the garage inside and out

Such insulation of the garage from the outside and inside creates a barrier to cold air flows from the street or from the inspection hole (basement). To reduce the presence of moisture in the air, a forced and natural ventilation, and all wooden elements of the garage and internal structures must be protected by impregnation with antiseptic substances.

A garage is a place to park a car, protecting equipment from bad weather, and a workshop if the car needs repairs. Some residents store equipment, summer supplies for the winter, and old things in this room. For a comfortable stay in this room you need to insulate it.

Many people have no idea how to insulate a garage door from the inside. You can do this work yourself, following the special instructions described below.

Preparing for work

There is an option that is easy to use, but very expensive - to buy a garage door model with built-in insulation and interior finishing. Insulating your garage door yourself will cost much less. This does not require construction education or experience in finishing work, and insulation will take little time. Let's look at how to properly insulate a garage door with your own hands, with all the nuances.

Garage doors are made mainly from sheet steel, so they cannot retain heat in the room. It is not advisable to heat an uninsulated room, since you can get condensation in the room and ice on the walls and gates in severe frosts. Before sheathing the garage door, purchase the material you will use to insulate the garage door.

You can use different insulation materials; the cheapest and most effective option would be to insulate the garage door with polystyrene foam.

• Foam plastic It has a small specific gravity, so there will be no load on the structure. The material has low thermal conductivity, is environmentally friendly, lasts more than 50 years and does not absorb water. To install thermal insulation, no special tools are needed, since the foam sheet can be easily cut with a simple stationery knife.
• Stone wool(basalt) – fire-resistant fibrous material with high moisture resistance. It is used in any room for sound and heat insulation, does not emit harmful substances. This material is easy to use. Sold in rolls.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the varieties of polystyrene foam, having the same composition. This material has lower thermal conductivity due to its increased density, and has different degrees of flammability, which are indicated on the packaging. To insulate garage doors, you need to use the NG or G1 brand. This material has a drawback: it is destroyed in the sun, so it requires additional finishing.
• Liquid penoizol- a material that is sprayed from a cylinder and is able to fill all the cracks and bridges of cold. It sets in 15 minutes, hardens within 4 hours, and final strength occurs after three days. The advantage is ease of use, good thermal insulation qualities, and non-flammability. The insulation is seamless, no need to rack your brains about how to seal the gaps between the sheets of material.

It is better to order a garage door with a gate; if it is not provided, then it is better to equip it before the start of insulation work. The gate will help retain heat in the room during renovation work.

Insulation tool

Before you insulate your garage door, you need to prepare the tools necessary for this process:

• screwdriver or drill;
• core;
• screwdrivers;
• square;
• level;
• hard brush;
• sandpaper;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• construction knife.

Almost every owner has this set of tools.

Finishing materials

Even before starting work, you need to decide how to cover the garage door:

• lining;
• corrugated sheeting;
• plywood, moisture resistant;
• PVC panels.

Based on practice, it can be noted that oriented strand board (OSB) has many advantages:

• strength and reliability;
• easy to process;
• does not require additional vapor barrier;
• moisture resistant;
• has an attractive appearance;
• It's inexpensive.

This material is suitable for rooms with high humidity.

To make a frame for insulation, you need to prepare bars with a cross-section of 40 mm, which are pre-treated with special antiseptic compounds to prevent rotting.

Preparing gates for insulation

Before insulating garage doors, preliminary preparation is carried out. Inspect your swing garage doors for rust and peeling paint. They need to be cleaned well, rust is removed using coarse sandpaper, paint with a stiff wire brush. Next, the entire surface is treated with fine-grained sandpaper for better adhesion.

The next step is to treat the surface with a degreasing solution. After complete drying, anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers. It is worth noting that the second layer of primer is applied after the first has dried and perpendicular to it.

After the primer comes waterproofing, it is equipped if polystyrene foam is used as insulation; with other materials it is not necessary. Bituminous mastic is easy to use; it is used to carefully coat the door leaf, and it is advisable to glue vapor barrier membranes to it. You can use self-adhesive material "Izolon"

Lathing

When insulating the gate from the inside with your own hands, you must strictly adhere to the instructions described below - this will help you avoid making fatal mistakes.

Lathing - installation of bars, pre-cut to the size of the gate leaf. It is desirable that the bars are solid. There is no need to neglect the framing of deadbolts and ventilation holes around the perimeter.

Before installing the bars, you need to mark the door leaf and tilt the places where the holes for fastenings will be located. The step between the screws should be no more than 25 centimeters. You need to pre-drill holes with a 4 mm drill in the pre-designated locations.

The bars are screwed with self-tapping screws (wood-metal) of the required length. To do this, use a screwdriver. The bars should be 60 centimeters from each other - this distance is just right for the width of the foam layer.

Installation of foam plastic

Insulation of swing garage doors with foam plastic begins with marking and cutting the material. The layers must be cut in such a way that the foam fits tightly between the sheathing. The cutting line must be smooth and vertical, so the use of a flexible blade is unacceptable.

It is worth noting that you do not need to use foam plastic fasteners when installing it, since it will be absorbed by the finishing material. But for reliability, you can use special silicate glue or polyurethane foam, which can also be used for sealing seams and cracks.

Advice: you need to buy material taking into account the sheathing and its location on the swing garage door leaf, otherwise there will be a lot of scraps. You can use polystyrene foam for insulation, then you don’t need additional waterproofing, and it’s easier to work with - it doesn’t crumble. The only drawback is the high cost.

Stone wool insulating gates

The process of insulating a garage door from the inside with stone wool is not difficult even for a beginner. This is a good insulation material, having an aluminum film on one side, which reflects 97% of heat. Mounted directly on the door leaf using mounting adhesive. On the garage side, the insulation must be protected with any facing material.

Application of expanded polystyrene

For garage doors, many people use insulation such as polystyrene foam, which has good insulating qualities. The installation method is the same as when installing foam plastic.

Insulation of gates with foam insulation

It is not possible to insulate garage doors with your own hands using liquid foam insulation - this will require special equipment and qualified builders. The material is sprayed in several layers by a spray machine. The lathing for this method is mounted as in the previous case; it will be needed to attach the finishing trim.

This method has a large number of advantages:

• does not change its properties over time;
• excellent adhesion;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• no cold bridges remain when applied;
• does not require installation of vapor barrier;
• service life 70 years.

Application of polyurethane foam

Once the layers of insulation are installed, you need to carefully seal the cracks. The best and simplest option would be to insulate garage doors with polyurethane foam; it fills all the voids and cracks.

It is better to purchase professional material for the gun; this will help to significantly save material, since the gun helps to accurately distribute the foam in the right amount. Foam tends to expand, thereby filling all voids. As soon as the foam has dried, it is cut flush with the insulation.

How to cover the gaps between the base and the insulation? To do this, you can use Izolon, a self-adhesive material used as additional insulation and vapor barrier.

When insulating, the door leaf is often lined with penofol before installing the sheathing. This is an innovative, non-flammable, easy-to-use insulating material.

Insulation of gaps

When insulating the gate, gaps remain between the leaf and the slopes, into which cold air penetrates from the street. For complete tightness, these cold bridges must be eliminated without fail. For this purpose, inserts and thresholds are used.

Vinyl inserts cope well with this problem. They are used to paste over the edges of the gate, having previously covered them with two layers of paint. For better adhesion, there are special notches on the inside of the inserts.

Before installing the inserts under the threshold, the space is first cleared of dust and dirt. The material is fixed using a special mounting adhesive.

Insulating a garage gate

Before insulating a garage door, the surface is prepared. It needs to be done in the same way as when insulating large swing gates. Waterproofing and vapor barrier are installed.

After this, the sheathing is mounted using pre-prepared bars. First of all, they are screwed around the perimeter of the gate. Then you need to cut out a block equal in size to the diagonal line of the gate and screw it with self-tapping screws. The sheathing is ready, it needs to be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting.

In the case of a gate, the insulation is cut in the shape of two triangles and inserted tightly into the sheathing. All cracks are foamed as described above.

Finishing the gate after insulation

As soon as the insulation of the sheets with your own hands is completed, the question arises - how to cover the garage doors. There are a lot of options, you can use:

• Railcar - which is an inexpensive environmentally friendly material. She has a presentable appearance, she tolerates temperature changes well, and is resistant to mechanical damage. Gates, swing gates, insulated, and finished with clapboard have an aesthetic appearance. It is mounted on wood screws to the gate frame.
• PVC panels are easy to maintain, installation is not difficult, and have a long service life. But there is a drawback: this material is susceptible to shock and mechanical damage. The panels are mounted on the sheathing using a construction stapler.

• moisture-resistant plywood is a material with excellent characteristics in terms of ecology and technical qualities, the only negative is its high cost.
• OSB panel - High-quality, inexpensive material for cladding work on garage doors, which even professionals recommend using.

The material is mounted on the sheathing using self-tapping screws. Before installation on garage doors, swinging ones need to cut the sheets to size, trying to eliminate large amounts of scraps. OSB has excellent characteristics, but to increase its service life it needs to be treated with special compounds or painted.

In conclusion

As you can see, the work of insulation is painstaking, but not complicated, and if you do it according to all the rules, then insulated garage doors will protect the room where the car is located from winter frosts.

It is worth considering one more important nuance - you should not use material such as mineral wool to insulate garage doors. The fact is that it absorbs moisture, which, when frozen, almost completely deprives the material of its thermal insulation abilities. This fact also applies to glass wool.

Do not forget that when cold and warm air come into contact, a dew point appears - condensation, which, if the insulation is installed incorrectly, can reduce all work to zero. Now you know how to properly insulate a garage door and can do it yourself.

The temperature in the garage largely determines the condition vehicle, but, above all, its rubber technical elements. Moreover, the warmer the room is, the more comfortable it will be to use the car inside. winter period. Finally, the temperature here also affects the microclimatic conditions in basement(if any) under the garage. And in order to retain heat inside the garage, it is necessary to carefully insulate it. So, today we will talk about how to insulate garage doors with your own hands.

Is it necessary to insulate gates at all?

To find out whether the gate really needs insulation, you need to understand one extremely important point. Thus, even without taking into account winter cold, the usual thermal fluctuations in warm and daylight hours can lead to the formation of condensation in garage room. Permanently increased level humidity negatively affects not only the condition of the object, but also the body of the vehicle: metal surfaces become covered with rust, electrical wiring begins to rot, and mold or mildew appears in the corners of the garage.

As soon as the condensation freezes, the finishing material will begin to crack due to moisture. But there is great news - such a seemingly serious problem is quite difficult to solve! You just need to select an insulating material, and then carry out the appropriate measures to insulate gates and doors yourself. As soon as the work is completed, the temperature in the garage will not fall below 5 C. Let's find out how to do this.

What can you do? Getting ready for work

There are several options: for example, you can simply purchase and install modern garage doors high quality which are already equipped with insulation material, or carry out work on the thermal insulation of existing gates on your own, which, of course, will cost much less. This will not require much time, nor will it require special skills in construction.

Pay attention! The garage door itself is thin, so it is unable to reliably protect against the cold in winter. Heat metal garage generally unreasonable, since the only thing you will achieve in this case is the formation of condensation on the walls.

It is also worth noting that it is better to insulate the gate from the outside, although this is often impossible. At internal insulation condensation will appear in those areas where the insulation comes into contact with metal surfaces, for this reason, all surfaces should be protected with an anti-corrosion agent, and the heat insulator itself should be fixed as tightly as possible in order to avoid air gaps. A wooden frame is built on top of the insulation, which will serve as a base for future cladding.

How to make heating in a garage with your own hands

Previously, we talked about how to choose the type of garage heating and do it yourself; in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Now - directly to the workflow!

Instructions for insulating garage doors

The thermal insulation procedure consists of several stages; let’s get acquainted with each of them in more detail. By tradition, we begin by selecting materials and preparing all the necessary equipment.

How to choose insulation?

In this case, the characteristics and quality of the heat insulator are extremely important. Of all the known insulation materials, the following is suitable for our case:

• mineral wool;
• foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• extruded foam.

Each option has its own strengths and weaknesses. We also note that even before insulating the garage door with your own hands, you should correctly determine the required number of materials. Let's move on.

If we talk specifically about polystyrene foam, then it does not have high enough fire safety, but it has increased moisture resistance and low heat conductivity. Mineral wool is more fire-resistant (so to speak), but its moisture resistance leaves much to be desired. Polyurethane foam spraying is new way thermal insulation is expensive, albeit effective. This method has several significant advantages.

• After installation there are no seams left.
• Polyurethane foam weighs quite little.
• It can be applied to any surface, even unprepared.
• The material is resistant to temperature changes and chemicals, it is durable and strong.

But due to the high cost, this method is not very popular - as a rule, foam plastic is used to insulate garage doors. Therefore, in this article we will focus specifically on this material.

Required equipment

You don’t need any specific tools - almost every car owner should have everything they need at hand. So, for work you should prepare:

How to insulate your front door yourself

Previously, we talked about several methods of insulation front door, which tools and materials are best used for this, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Calculations of the required number of consumables

First, measure the gate and determine what and how much you will need. For finishing cladding you can use various materials: plastic, plywood, lining, etc., but in practice best option in this case, OSB boards, which have a number of advantages:

• reliability;
• affordable price;
• strength;
• ease of processing;
• excellent aesthetics;
• low vapor permeability (you don’t have to use additional vapor barrier).

For the garage you will need material marked OSB-3 or OSB-4 one centimeter thick. After completing the measurements, calculate the required number of slabs (for reference: the standard dimensions of one slab are 250x125 centimeters). Often a couple of slabs are enough, and after work there are a lot of scraps left, which will also be useful in the future.

OSB boards will be fixed to the sheathing made of wooden blocks of 40x40 millimeters. The lathing will be created around the perimeter of the structure and along the area of ​​the door leaf, and attached to the load-bearing parts (these can be profiled pipes or steel corners). When calculating the dimensions of the sheathing, you need to take into account several points (this is another important point regarding how to insulate a garage door with your own hands).

• Dimensions load-bearing elements.
• Dimensions of foam sheets.
• The fixation step for future cladding (at least 400 millimeters).

The bars will be fastened with self-tapping screws (their length depends on the thickness of the load-bearing elements); for OSB boards, the best option is screws equipped with a press washer.

Pay attention! It may be necessary to treat the internal iron surface with a special anti-corrosion primer that can protect the material from rusting. The primer can be anything, it is only important that it is intended for a fairly wide temperature range. Before applying the primer, the surface will need to be degreased with a solvent.

To install polystyrene foam to metal (as well as to fill the resulting gaps), you need to purchase polyurethane foam. It is advisable that it be professional, that is, a special gun is used for application. This type of foam has less expansion, and it is much more convenient to apply it with a gun.

Wooden blocks should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from rotting. The antiseptic can also be anything; Moreover, it can even be paint that has antiseptic characteristics. Finally, ordinary polystyrene foam (not extruded) needs to be protected from moisture, for which you can use bitumen-based mastic, a vapor barrier membrane, isolon, and so on.

Stage four. Preparatory activities

Step 1. First of all, treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Do this in one or two layers, depending on the specific product (if there are several layers, then each of them needs to be given time to dry). To apply, use a regular brush, but start working only with protective gloves - most antiseptics are based on aggressive chemicals.

Step 2. Next, begin preparing the inside surface of the garage door. Carefully inspect the surface, clean off any traces of rust found. Any paint that has already peeled off should also be cleaned off. Next, in order to increase adhesion, the entire surface is carefully treated with sandpaper. Finally, the metal is coated with a degreasing solvent.

Step 3. Proceed to apply the anti-corrosion primer, and apply it in two layers: the first along the canvas, the second across, after the previous one has completely dried.

Step 4. When the surface is dry, proceed with waterproofing (as noted above, for ordinary polystyrene foam this is a prerequisite). There are several methods of waterproofing, let's get acquainted with each of them.

• Using bitumen-based mastic.
• Using isolon.
• Using a vapor barrier membrane.

It is necessary to cover the entire surface with waterproofing, which will later be covered with a heat insulator.

Stage five. Installation of sheathing

We continue to consider how to insulate garage doors with our own hands. According to the previously drawn up diagram, cut the bars to the required size. To attach them, make holes in the frame with a diameter of 0.4 centimeters in increments of approximately 20 centimeters. To fix the bars themselves, you need to tighten them with clamps and, using a 0.25 centimeter drill, make holes in them according to the depth of the screws.

Stage six. Laying foam

The foam will be laid in the voids between the sheathing bars. To do this, first measure the dimensions of the cells and cut the insulation using a metal ruler and a mounting knife. It is important that you make each sheet of foam a few millimeters larger than the required dimensions, on each side. So the insulation, being quite elastic, will fit extremely tightly.

Video - Technology for cutting foam plastic using a knife

There are several ways to fix the heat insulator between the sheathing beams, let’s get acquainted with them.

Method number 1. You don’t have to attach the foam at all, since the sheathing slabs will already press it against the gate quite tightly.

Method No. 2. The material can be glued using polyurethane foam. An excellent option, especially since foam will already be needed in the work.

Method No. 3. Finally, you can use “liquid nails” glue, which, as far as we know, is intended specifically for this.

Pay attention! Polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion, but before application it is still advisable to moisten the surface somewhat. This is explained by the fact that the foam hardens only when exposed to moisture.

Take a sheet of foam plastic, apply foam to one surface along the entire perimeter (a little, in the center - in a zigzag manner). After this, wait about ten minutes for the material to increase slightly in volume, and press the sheet against to the right place at the gate. After another fifteen minutes, press the foam again to make sure that its adherence to the surface is as strong as possible.

After attaching the last sheet, fill in all voids and cracks using the same mounting foam. When the foam dries (and this will take at least a day), the excess is cut off with a knife. Now get started last stage work!

Stage seven. Sheathing

Measure the gate with a tape measure and determine exactly how to cut the OSB boards. It is important that they completely cover the sheathing with insulation, but at the same time it is necessary to act on the principle of maximum integrity of the slabs. If joints cannot be avoided, then they should be placed exclusively on the bars.

You can use an electric jigsaw or hacksaw to cut the slabs. Next, place the slabs in place; if necessary, make cutouts for ventilation holes or locks. Use screws for fastening - it will not only be secure, but also look beautiful. The vertical mounting pitch should be 150 millimeters, but the center and horizontal spacing should be 250 millimeters. Drive the screws into the pre-drilled holes.

Pay attention! If you have difficulties with the tightness of the doors or gate leaves, you can cover the problem areas with tape, sealant or tube (these are sold in a large assortment, and you can choose for yourself optimal sizes and shape). This will significantly reduce heat loss in your garage.

Gates, lined OSB boards, they already look excellent on their own, but if you wish, you can paint them with paint of any color you like. Of course, all this depends solely on personal preferences, since the main thing is already ready - the garage door is insulated. For a more detailed look at how to insulate a garage door with your own hands, we recommend watching the thematic video below.

Video - Thermal insulation of garage doors

As a conclusion

As a result, let us remind you once again how important it is to insulate the gates and the garage itself as a whole. Even normal (not taking into account winter) temperature fluctuations during warm and daylight hours can lead to the formation of condensation in the garage. A permanently high level of humidity negatively affects not only the condition of the room, but also the body of the vehicle: metal surfaces become covered with rust, electrical wiring begins to rot, and mold or mildew appears in the corners of the garage. As soon as the condensation freezes, the finishing material will begin to crack due to moisture. But high-quality insulation will allow you to get rid of all these troubles!

The microclimate in general and the air temperature in the garage in particular are parameters on which the safety of the car and all other items located in the room directly depends. In order for the garage to become the most reliable shelter for your property and a comfortable place for repairs and other work, you need to carry out comprehensive insulation of the entire structure and pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the gate. You can handle all stages of insulation yourself. Read the instructions and get to work.

In order for thermal insulation to be as effective as possible, you must not only properly fasten the insulation, but also first take all possible measures to preserve heat in the room. For example, examine the condition of your gate. Maybe they are already very weak and it’s time to install them instead modern design good quality? This, of course, comes to this quite rarely, but even such unpleasant exceptions do occur.

As a rule, garage walls are relatively thin. Without high-quality insulation, they will practically not retain heat inside the garage. And even the most modern heating system will not help - condensation will simply begin to settle on the walls, which will lead to even more unfavorable consequences.

Therefore, the first thing you should do is insulate all surfaces and ceilings of your garage, and only then think about organizing a heating system. And the thermal insulation of the gate is an integral part of the mentioned complex work.

Pre-prepare all the necessary accessories for insulating the gate. It's better to spend time assembling them at the very beginning so as not to be distracted by this in the future.

Video - Insulating garage doors

Garage door insulation kit

1. Vapor barrier.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Insulation.
4. Bars.
5. Dowels.
6. Fasteners for steam, hydro and thermal insulation.
7. Sealing compound.

It is better if the insulation of garage doors is external. However, performing such a task is very often not possible. If the garage is located on a private local area, then it is still possible to insulate its gate from the outside. If the garage is located in a cooperative, you will have to be content with internal thermal insulation.

Condensation will form where the insulation comes into contact with the gate metal. Therefore, the metal parts of the structure must first be treated with a special anti-corrosion agent and covered with a vapor barrier material.

After laying the vapor barrier, a wooden frame with cells the size of the slabs of thermal insulation material is attached to the gate. The insulation itself is laid as tightly as possible.

The wooden frame elements must first be impregnated with a special antiseptic. You can buy a ready-made composition or prepare it yourself. Heated drying oil has good antiseptic properties.

Traditionally, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are used to insulate gates.

Before you begin, take the time to properly prepare.

First stage. Clean the surface. Take a special power tool or at least an ordinary wire brush and remove traces of corrosion, cracked paint and other dirt from the gate.

Second stage. Prime the gate. To do this, buy a professional composition in a specialized store. The primer will protect the metal from corrosion. It is convenient to use a wide brush to apply the composition.

Third stage. Seal the gaps between the frame and the garage door leaf itself. To do this, it is convenient to use a special sealing rubber. It will simultaneously close the cracks and will not interfere with the gate opening normally.

The technology of foam insulation is extremely simple and can be easily done with your own hands. Follow all the recommendations given step by step and your garage door will be reliably insulated.

First step. Cut the foam sheets according to the dimensions of the gate. If in the future you plan to carry out decorative cladding, for example, with clapboard, attach a lathing made of wooden slats to the gate. You will place insulation in the cells of the sheathing, and nail the lining directly to the slats. If finishing cladding is not planned, the sheathing may not be done.

Second step. Lubricate the insulation board or the surface of the gate at your discretion with polyurethane foam or special glue for foam plastic, capable of ensuring its high-quality adhesion to metal surfaces. Foam must be present at the corners of the sheets. Also distribute it evenly along the plane of the insulation board.

Take into account the fact that as the polyurethane foam gains strength, it increases in volume, so apply it as evenly as possible.

Third step. Press the foam sheet firmly onto the insulated surface. If there is no sheathing, start insulating from the corner of the gate, carefully aligning each sheet before final fastening. It is recommended to lightly moisten the metal with water beforehand.

We applied the foam to the sheet, waited a few seconds until it expanded a little, pressed the sheet tightly to the surface, and after 20-30 minutes pressed it again. The foam expands, so you'll likely have to do a few of these repeated presses.

Fourth step. If desired, fill the sheathing with clapboard or other finishing material of your choice.

Mineral wool is also quite often used to insulate garage doors. Preparation for thermal insulation is the same as in the case of foam plastic: you clean the metal of contaminants and fix the vapor barrier. In the case of mineral wool, it is imperative to prepare the frame. The frame cells should be 5-10 mm narrower than the mineral wool insulation slab. This way the slabs will be laid as tightly as possible.

All wooden structural elements must be impregnated with an antifungal agent.

Fill all frame cells with insulation. Fix the mineral wool slabs on the sides using dowels. Attach waterproofing material over the insulation. A simple plastic film will do.

Sew a lining on top of the insulating “pie”. Attach the sheathing sheets to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. Instead of lining, you can use another material of your choice.

If you wish, you can use the simplest option for insulating garage doors using polyurethane foam in cylinders.

First stage. Buy polyurethane foam. About 5 cylinders of foam are required for 7 m2 of insulated surface. Calculate the required number of cylinders to insulate your garage door.

Second stage. Apply foam to the gate in an even layer. Allow the material to harden, and then cut off any excess foam that has protruded from the sides using stationery knife or other sharp device.

Third stage. If desired, do decorative finishing insulation. Hiding foam is not very easy. But, for example, it can be covered with plaster. The insulation will not be completely invisible, but the appearance of the structure will immediately become more aesthetically attractive.

If you have a sufficient budget, you can cover the foam with chipboard, lining or other material.

As a result of such insulation, a real monolith will be created on the gate. The advantage of this method is that the foam is able to efficiently fill even the smallest cracks. This material is not afraid of contact with moisture and lasts for several decades. In addition, the layer of foam will further strengthen the gate structure.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself insulation of garage doors