Sand-lime brick for building a private house. Insulating a brick house from the inside How to insulate a house made of white silicate brick

Just in case, let me describe how I understand your situation (so that I understand everything correctly and do not give unnecessary advice). It’s just that you have a question not only about insulation, but also about heating (in another thread, here), so I will “gather” all the information together. And you, if anything, will correct it. So:

Now you live in a house where there is no heating, except for three fireplaces. One floor house + residential attic. The walls of the house are built with a thickness of 370mm (one and a half bricks). The walls are insulated from the inside with 50mm polystyrene foam. The attic is not insulated. The floors are not insulated. It's cold in the house.

In this thread you ask how to insulate, and in another (link above) what heating to choose. Since the answer for heating depends on the answer for insulation, let's first decide how best to insulate, then (when it becomes clear how to insulate), we will calculate the amount of heat loss for your house (taking into account the fact that you insulate it). Knowing the amount of heat loss, it will be possible (knowing your prices for electricity and gas) to understand what is cheaper to heat.

I hope I explained it :-). Therefore, let's start with insulation.

Walls. It is best to properly insulate the walls of the house from the outside, and remove the insulation from the inside altogether. The simplest insulation outside - insulation under the cladding. Insulation - mineral wool or fiberglass wool. Mineral wool density is 35-50 kg/m3, fiberglass wool is 17 kg/m3 (slabs, not roll items). A sheathing (wooden or metal) is attached to the outside of the wall. Insulation is installed in the sheathing. On top of the insulation is a superdiffusion membrane (it waterproofs and protects from wind), then a gap of 2-4 cm, and a cladding material (siding, for example). The thickness of the insulation is 100mm. If you insulate the house from the outside in this way, then, in principle, you don’t have to remove the foam from the inside. You just need to make a calculation based on whether you have enough ventilation (both supply and exhaust). I'll explain why. You now have plastic windows (they don’t allow air to pass through), and walls made of foam plastic also don’t allow air to pass through. And the house must have both air flow and exhaust. Otherwise, the walls will become damp and it will be stuffy. To check how yours is (enough inflow and exhaust or not), I need to make a calculation. For calculations I need the following data:

plans for the first and attic floors, with the name of the premises, and with the areas of all premises
mark on the plans where the windows and doors are
note where the exhaust ducts are located and their diameters
the height (along the facade) of all the walls of the house, and separately on each floor the ceiling height

This information can be sent in any quality, as long as it can be parsed, look at how the reader clarified the same data. You can draw it by hand, photograph it and post it.

Roof. If the attic is residential, then you need to completely insulate the roof slope. The insulation scheme and type of insulation will depend on how your attic space is constructed (in shape).

How did you design your attic space:

1. right under the roof

Room under the roof

2. or “room rectangle in the roof triangle” :-)

How to insulate it will depend on which option you have (1 or 2).

Floor. You didn't write how it works. Without this I cannot recommend anything.

I look forward to your clarifications, thank you.

Private house, walls 38cm, facade made of white brick, metal-plastic windows. The house is cold Severe frost The walls and ceiling in the corners are wet and covered with fungus. It is necessary to insulate the building from the outside with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. To meet the standards, it is necessary that the insulation be at least 10 cm for polystyrene foam and 12 (with a slight stretch, due to the fact that for small volumes it can be difficult to select slabs required thickness, you can take 10 cm) for mineral wool.
If you will insulate with mineral wool, pay attention special attention on glue, plaster and paint - they must allow steam to pass through.
Around windows and doors, in any case, there must be insulation with mineral wool (requirement fire safety).
The density for mineral wool should be 145-150 kg/cub.m, for foam plastic 25 kg/cub.m
In the attic, it is probably easiest to lay logs and fill the space with mineral wool or, as an option, “ecowool” (Cellulose insulation). Or blow it out with polyurethane foam (the last two are flammable). There must be a layer of vapor barrier under the insulation. If the attic is heated, then it is necessary to insulate it from the roof side.
Regarding flammability: please note that polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam burn and at the same time release harmful substances.
Particular attention should be paid to junctions and corners, so that everything fits well there and there are no cracks or gaps.

Insulating your home is always the most important undertaking. Indeed, in this case, it is necessary to correctly evaluate not only the long-term issue of energy saving (energy savings), but also operational issues (durability, maintainability, fire resistance, environmental friendliness, vapor permeability, efficiency, etc.).
For certain reasons, we will not recommend that you insulate with polystyrene foam - because this is NOT the best choice for a private home (poor vapor permeability, flammability, mice infestation).
If you are planning to make a ventilated facade, then basalt or mineral wool mats with a thickness of at least 100 mm, using protective films(vapor barrier and wind barrier).
If you want to get durable, vapor-permeable, monolithic insulation, then you should pay attention to warm plasters. This is a new direction in insulation - it has been used on the Ukrainian market since 2007 and has proven itself quite well. Allows you to simultaneously level, insulate, and dry already soaked walls.
Corresponds to insulation practitioner Vitaly Zagorniy
You can insulate yourself in many ways, the choice of which depends on your beliefs about environmental friendliness, price and other factors. The best thing in your case is to choose a variety of wool: basalt, mineral and others, but these wool should be pressed slabs that are made specifically for external use. Why cotton wool? This is because in order for the walls to breathe, this is easier to do with this material; the thickness of the insulation (cotton wool) in this case should be no less than 15-20 cm! You can also insulate with polystyrene foam, but you should remember that the softer the foam, the worse it is as a heat insulator and the less durable, while its thickness for insulation is: soft - 15 cm, hard - 10 cm, extruder (Penoplex, Sterodur) - 5 cm.
It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the foundation to the freezing depth (at least 50 cm), if this is not possible for some reason, then you need to make a warm covering, that is, around the house for a width of 1 meter you need to dig the ground to a depth of 15-25 cm, pour a 5 cm layer of sand and, after compacting thoroughly, add a dry layer sand-cement mixture, as when laying paving stones, lay a film 2.2-2.5 m wide (cut the sleeve), insert it so that the ends remain longer, that is, wrap one end to the wall with a tolerance of 15-20 cm, lay foam boards(solid) 1 m wide, then wrap the film so that the slab is protected from moisture and contact with the ground (for durability) pour over the film concrete screed with a reinforcing mesh (of any thickness for screed) or add fiber to the concrete, it is better to use both components together. In this case, your floor will never be cold, even in winter, and will not drop below +8 heat.
It is better to insulate the ceiling (attic) with rolled mineral wool more than 10 cm thick.
The next step is to install good ventilation; this is perhaps the most main problem fungus and wet corners. Buy hoods for the kitchen and in each room, also install any absorbent device, from the usual Cerazit-Box, to power tools; the lower the humidity, the warmer it will be in the house. Also install proper heating.

Building a house from brick is quite popular throughout the territory. Russian Federation, because Brick walls have many advantages. They are reliable, fire-resistant and can last for many years. But there are also disadvantages, for example, they do not retain heat effectively enough. The problem can be easily eliminated if additional external insulation of the brick walls of the house is carried out with special materials. How to insulate brick house Almost every owner thinks about the outside.

Under construction brick house, you have to spend a lot of money, which is why the question very often arises of how to carry out home insulation work with your own hands. Everything is quite simple and if you approach the issue thoroughly, study all the nuances and choose the right material, it will be possible to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick without the involvement of hired specialists. Any hardware store salesperson knows the answer to the question of how to insulate a brick house from the outside.

There are quite a lot of insulation technologies; first, let’s consider the type of insulation for siding.

The question of what is the best way to insulate a brick house from the outside comes up very often on specialized forums. It is worth thoroughly studying all the information presented and choosing what suits you. The main division of wall insulation occurs according to the principle of installation; there are those that require additional finishing, and those that do not need it. There are simply a huge number of varieties of materials for insulation and sound insulation, many of them are similar in characteristics, and differ only in price and manufacturer.

Mineral insulation (Minvata). It is very often used due to the fact that its price is quite low and its characteristics are suitable. For example, its thermal conductivity is 0.04 W/(m*K). In addition, it is quite environmentally friendly and can be installed even by an inexperienced person. Mineral wool can burn, so it has a low level of fire safety, which can be considered a minus, and during installation it will be necessary to carry out additional work related to moisture insulation of the walls, because the material absorbs condensation well.
Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). Thermal conductivity 0.036 W/(m*K). Lightweight, practical, with high moisture resistance. Same as mineral wool is environmentally friendly. The disadvantages of insulating a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam are toxic emissions during combustion, fragility, and vapor permeability.
Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), a warm counterpart to ordinary polystyrene. But it is produced using a different, fundamentally new technology. Thanks to this, it has improved characteristics of heat and noise insulation, as well as steam and water permeability. Insulating a house with penoplex is very popular.
It is possible to insulate a brick house from the outside modern methods, using foaming technology. Mounting polyurethane foam. The product is new, but has already conquered a large part of the market. Excellent insulation and protection from moisture. Minus, application is carried out using special equipment.

insulation of a brick house from the outside by spraying polyurethane foam

Two types of insulation that do not require additional finishing

Another method of insulation brick wall from the outside, using a brick-like thermal panel, this is enough new technology. The main advantage is that there is no need to hide such panels under siding. They have a beautiful appearance.

Thermal panels for brick

insulation for a brick house using warm plaster, innovative look. It is becoming increasingly popular in our country due to its simplicity and low cost.

Insulation for a brick house using warm plaster

Installation diagram for siding

Surely not everyone knows how to properly insulate a brick house from the outside, or more precisely how to install the insulation. Installation of insulation groups under siding is fundamentally similar for all types of materials in this group. Before insulating a brick wall from the outside, it is necessary to set up the frame for subsequent installation of siding. To do this you will need to have:

A hammer drill with an 8 mm drill, or an impact drill with a drill of the same diameter.
Screwdriver.
Construction level.
Construction corner.
Roulette, hammer.

As a material for making a frame, you can use metal profile 60*27mm., or wooden blocks cross section 50*50 mm.

Work should begin by clearing the wall of everything that will interfere with the installation of the frame. Remove sills and slopes from windows. After which you can begin installing the end bars. If the wall to be insulated is quite flat, then the frame can be made of wood, and the bars can be fastened with dowels - nails, right through. For external walls that have uneven surfaces, it is better to use a metal profile.

The outermost bars are installed, using a building level, strictly vertically. After which, for convenience, a cord is pulled between them; it is convenient to control the installation of the remaining bars along it. All installed bars must be at a distance of 60 cm from each other in the same plane.

The insulation is cut into pieces of the required length and placed between the bars. It should be secured using dowels - nails for insulating materials, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall.

If additional vapor barrier is necessary, it is mounted before installing the bars, directly on the wall, and only then proceed to installing the frame bars. If a metal profile is used as a frame, the whole scheme looks approximately the same, only instead of bars, profiles are installed using special hangers.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The process of insulating the brick walls of a house from the outside, using polyurethane foam, the order of work is slightly different. You should start by cleaning the wall and removing anything that gets in the way correct installation frame. The next stage is marking and installing hangers for mounting profiles on the wall. After installing the hangers, begin applying polyurethane foam. Last stage After applying the foam, this is the installation of profiles. As in the case of bars, the outer profiles are installed first, and then the lace is pulled and the rest are mounted with its help. The profiles must be in the same plane.

Important: Before applying the foam, the hangers should be bent in such a way that they are ready for installing profiles in them; if this is not done, then after applying the foam this will no longer be possible.

After installing the frame and insulation, the next stage is installing the siding. The installation diagram depends on the type of siding panels, but general points are worth noting.

Installation is carried out starting from the bottom of the house.
Installation of the first panel is carried out strictly horizontally using a level.
Each subsequent panel is mounted into the previous one.

The façade of a brick house can be finished using other technologies. For example, install slabs mineral insulation(mineral wool) and then plaster and paint the surface. Or insulate the outside walls with penoplex and cover them with brick.

Insulation of the facade of a brick house using a clinker thermal panel has fundamental difference from the installation of mineral wool and other similar types of insulation. It consists in the fact that the installation of a frame and, accordingly, siding is not required. The pattern of clinker panels can be different, there are panels that look like bricks, natural stone, etc.

Before installation, as in the case of conventional insulation, the wall must be cleaned of dust, dirt and anything that could interfere with installation. Installation of the clinker panel is done from the bottom up. From the outside, the process resembles assembling a puzzle. First, the corners and base are assembled, then gradually filled inner part walls. Fastening occurs using dowel nails for insulating materials, as well as a small amount of polyurethane foam, which is applied under the insulation and subsequently glues it to it.

Warm plaster

Abroad, for a long time, this type of insulation of the external walls of a brick house is considered one of the best and is used almost everywhere. In Russia, the benefits of warm plaster have not yet been properly appreciated, although many builders are already using it in practice.

Warm plaster has a composition almost the same as regular plaster, only instead of sand bubbles of polystyrene foam, perlite or vermiculite are added to it.

Polystyrene foam is a good insulation material, anyone even unfamiliar with it knows this. construction technologies Human. The use of plaster with the addition of polystyrene foam will allow you to insulate the house without high costs, and in short term. Applying plaster does not require special preparation of the walls. Simply moisten with water and you can apply the mixture. Thermal insulation using warm plaster is quite effective because... there are no joints, cracks or other defects left on the wall through which heat can escape. Another indisputable advantage is the complete non-combustibility of the plaster and the absence of the need to replace the slopes on the windows, which will also allow you to save on finishing.

In addition to the article, watch the video:

In private construction, brick is still especially popular for building the walls of a house. Houses built of brick can be found almost everywhere. But, despite its excellent performance qualities, such a house requires insulation. The issue of insulating a brick house is especially acute today, when the cost of energy is quite high and every kilowatt of energy has to be saved. The solution in this situation is to create reliable thermal insulation of the house, which can reduce heat loss to a minimum. All work on arranging thermal insulation can be done on your own, especially since there is nothing complicated in how to insulate a brick house.

Specifics of insulation of a brick house

When planning to insulate a brick house, you must remember that insulating a house is a whole range of work aimed at reducing heat loss through the roof, walls, floor and foundation. And in order to answer the question of how to properly insulate a brick house, you will first have to find out what kind of brick and what kind of masonry the house is built from, consider the types of insulation of a brick house and decide on the materials for its insulation.

Features of brick walls

Unlike concrete or wooden walls, the brick walls have a row characteristic features. Firstly, the walls can be made of solid or hollow brick. The thermal conductivity of a brick wall depends on this, the indicator of which is in the middle between wood 0.2 W/(m K) and concrete 1.5 W/(m K) and amounts to 0.4 W/(m K). Secondly, the masonry can be continuous and with an air pocket (well masonry). Depending on what type of brick is used and what kind of masonry is made, the thickness of the walls changes, and at the same time performance characteristics And required thickness thermal insulation layer.

Important! The average thermal conductivity values are shown above. Depending on the type of wood and the materials used for the production of brick and concrete, thermal conductivity indicators may fluctuate in one direction or another. Thus, concrete with the addition of expanded clay has a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), solid sand-lime brick 0.7 W/(m K), and pine 0.09 W/(m K). Therefore, before you start insulating the walls of your house, it is important to know what they are made of and how thick they are.

Regarding the masonry method, it should be noted that with continuous masonry, insulation is placed over the entire area of the wall on one or both sides. In this case, the thickness of the layer directly depends on the thickness of the wall: the thicker the wall, the smaller the layer required. In the case of well masonry, the insulation is placed inside the wall, between the bricks. This approach is also called in-wall insulation. It can provide additional thermal insulation due to the air gap between the outer and inner walls, and when using thermal insulation material, it can reduce heat loss by half.

Types of insulation

There are three types of insulation: external, internal, and internal. External insulation is the most popular and involves placing insulation on the outside of the building. This approach will provide additional protection for the walls from various types of natural phenomena. Unfortunately, external insulation of a brick house has its drawbacks - the seasonality of the work and the fairly high cost of materials. Internal insulation The house, in addition to insulating the walls, provides for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floors, attics and roofs. Internal insulation can be carried out almost at any time of the year. The third type is intra-wall insulation; it can only be performed at the stage of wall construction. Therefore, those who purchased an already built house will not be able to perform this type of insulation.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

It is necessary to select materials for insulating a brick house with special care, paying attention to their characteristics. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, some thermal insulation materials can only be used for interior decoration, some are for outdoor use only. Secondly, the density of the material and its thermal conductivity coefficient will depend total weight and the thickness of the insulating layer. Thirdly, from the resistance of the material to various types negative impacts depends on its durability and ability to maintain its performance qualities. Fourthly, the more natural the material, the better. Below are the main characteristics with their brief description, to which special attention should be paid.

Thermal conductivity coefficient. The lower this indicator, the smaller the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will be.
Water absorption coefficient. Just as in the case of thermal conductivity, the lower this indicator, the better. The water absorption of a material indicates its resistance to moisture absorption.
Density. Essentially, this indicator reflects the mass of thermal insulation. The higher it is, the heavier the material.
Flammability class. There are four flammability classes in total. Materials of class G1 stop burning without a fire source, so their use is more preferable in construction.
Durability of the material. With this indicator everything is simple. It indicates how long a given material will last without losing its performance characteristics.
Vapor capacity. The ability of the material to “breathe”, passing moist air through itself, will be very useful for internal insulation of premises, which will only increase comfortable accommodation in the house.
Soundproofing abilities. Some heat-insulating materials also have excellent sound-proofing properties, which allows you to significantly save on special sound-proofing materials.
Environmental friendliness. This indicator only indicates the naturalness of the materials and will be useful for those who strive to make their home as safe as possible for living in it.
Difficulty of installation. This indicator only affects the speed and ease of installation, which will be especially useful for beginners in the construction business.

IN modern construction Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house is carried out using various materials. Below are the usual artificial materials and natural ones that are gaining popularity again:

Mineral wool. Perhaps the most commonly used thermal insulation. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.041-0.044 W/(m.K) and its density is from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3. Among the disadvantages, high moisture absorption should be noted. More suitable for internal insulation.
Expanded polystyrene (foam). The second most popular insulation material. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 - 0.037 W/(m.K), density 11 to 35 kg/m3. This material practically does not absorb moisture, but at the same time its vapor permeability is practically zero. In addition, it is fragile, flammable and releases toxic substances when burned. Can be used both inside and outside the building.
Extruded polystyrene foam. Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.028 - 0.032 W/(m.K), density is from 25 to 38 kg/m3. Unlike regular foam, extruded polystyrene foam is stronger, but otherwise they are almost identical. Suitable for external and internal work.
Expanded clay. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.10 to 0.18 W/(m.K), density 200 - 800 kg/m3. Quite a narrow range of applications. It is mainly added to concrete for the foundation or construction of a monolithic frame of a house. It can also be used for in-wall insulation.
"Warm" plaster. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.065 W/(m.K), density 200 - 340 kg/m3. This material has quite a lot of advantages - sound insulation, vapor permeability, low water permeability, non-flammability, etc. But there are two significant drawbacks. The first is that the maximum layer of such plaster should not exceed 50 mm, the second is that it is heavy, which entails the need for a reinforced foundation. But in general, this is an excellent insulation material for both external and internal work.
Cork insulation. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.045 - 0.06 W/(m.K), density 240 - 250 kg/m3. This natural material Ideal for internal insulation due to its performance properties. The only serious disadvantage is the high degree of flammability. Best used for internal insulation.
Ecowool or cellulose wool. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.032 - 0.038 W/(m.K), density 30 - 75 kg/m3. Ecowool obtained as a result of processing cellulose perfectly absorbs moisture and does not tolerate mechanical loads. Used only for internal insulation. It is usually used to insulate attics.

When starting to insulate an already built brick house, first of all you need to make a small project, indicating in it all the areas that require insulation with the materials used and their quantity. It should be remembered that for internal and external work they use various materials. If the house is at the construction stage, then all the necessary calculations are indicated in the project documentation and all that remains is to purchase everything you need and begin work.

As noted earlier, this type of insulation can only be carried out at the stage of wall construction. To do this you need to do the following:

First we lay the outer wall, where every 5 rows of brick we insert a metal pin made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm into the seam. We select the length of the pin in such a way as to recess it by 2 - 3 cm and the remaining part of the wire should be 2 - 3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating material used;
as soon as an external wall 1 - 1.5 m high has been erected, we begin installing the thermal insulation in place, resting the materials on the pins;
at the end we carry out the masonry interior wall, after which we raise the outer one again. And so on to the very top.

The method described above is suitable for materials produced in mats or slabs, such as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use expanded clay. To do this, you will have to erect both walls at once to a height of 1 - 1.5 m, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 cm between them and tying them together with metal pins at the seams of the masonry. Then we pour expanded clay inside and continue building the walls. For this method of insulation, you should choose expanded clay of a large fraction. Since it has less density and hence its overall weight will be less.

Important! You don’t have to limit yourself to just in-wall insulation of a brick house. The walls of such a house can be additionally insulated from the outside.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside

External insulation of a brick house consists of insulating the walls, basement and external walls foundation. The technology for insulating a brick house from the outside is to clean the walls of the building from construction waste and dirt for further fixing a multi-layer thermal insulation cake on them or arranging on top bare walls hinged structure with thermal insulation placed inside. Materials you can use include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, and “warm” plaster. In this case, one simple rule must be observed - the sequence of arrangement of materials for insulating the walls of a brick house from the outside should be such that the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer increases towards the outer edge.

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, you need to do the following. Perform basic plastering of the walls to smooth out the main unevenness, then clean the surface of dirt and treat it with a primer. Then, in one of two ways, either with glue or with the help of facade dowels “umbrellas”, we fix the sheets of thermal insulation to the wall.

If you chose the first method, then you need to apply glue to the surface of the sheet and press it tightly against the wall. We carry out the work from the bottom up, placing the sheets gradually row by row. In this case, we shift each next row relative to the previous one, placing the sheets in checkerboard pattern. In this simple way, the stability of the entire structure is achieved. When fastening with façade dowels, we perform the same operations, with the difference that the glue is applied pointwise to the surface of the sheet in small portions. Then, after gluing, we drill a hole in the wall through the sheet into which we insert the dowel. We reinforce the resulting surface with a special mesh, plaster it and perform finishing paint or decorative plaster.

Video: insulating a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Another popular way of external wall insulation is to create ventilated facade. The creation work is as follows. The first thing you need to do is place a layer of vapor barrier on the surface of the wall, then create and anchor a metal or wooden frame. After this, we place between the frame slats thermal insulation material, on top of which we lay a layer of waterproofing. For a ventilated façade, basalt or mineral wool is most often used. We fix the heat- and waterproofing materials to the wall using the already familiar façade dowels with wide hat. Finally, we install the outer skin made of siding, porcelain stoneware or other material.

The simplest and most accessible option for external insulation is to use "warm" plasters. The work consists of cleaning the walls from dirt, after which their surface is impregnated with a primer. Next, a plaster mesh and beacons are attached to the wall, along which “warm” plaster will be applied. After the plastered walls have dried, they can be finished with decorative bark beetle plaster, clinker tiles, decorative facade brick or just paint it.

Insulation of the foundation and basement of a brick house is carried out by analogy with walls, with the only difference that it is not customary to create a ventilated façade for the foundation or basement. Most often, insulation is performed with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, clinker tiles or “warm” plaster.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside

Heat loss through external walls constitutes only a portion of the total heat loss. Most of the heat is lost through the roof and floor of a brick house. Of course, to more reliably retain heat, you can insulate the walls from the inside, and this will require very little effort. Let's consider the internal insulation of a brick house as it is being built, starting from the floor and ending with the roof.

Floor insulation in a brick house

It is best to insulate floors in a brick house during its construction. It is also possible to insulate an already built house, but this is associated with increased labor costs. This is due to the need to dismantle and repair an existing wooden or concrete floor. Floor insulation is carried out using polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool or expanded clay. Separately, we should highlight the “warm floor” system, which, in combination with conventional insulation, will retain heat and provide additional heating to the house.

During the construction of a new house, insulation of wooden floors is carried out as follows:

Having created a structure of joists and a subfloor made of waterproof plywood, we lay a layer of waterproofing on top of them. We overlap the edges of the waterproofing material with each other, and bring the edges along the perimeter up with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm;
Next, we place insulation in the space between the joists. If desired, a layer of vapor barrier can be laid on top of the insulation;
the next will be a rough floor made of boards, on top of which the finishing floor and floor covering will be laid.

If the house has two or more floors, then the insulation of the floors of the upper floors will also be insulation of the ceiling in a brick house. In fact, you will have to create a wooden floor on joists with insulation inside on the second floor.

Creating thermal insulation in an already built brick house begins with dismantling and repairing the wooden floor. After which, if necessary, excess soil is excavated, a new substrate of sand and crushed stone is backfilled and compacted. Finally, the structure is assembled from logs and insulation according to the scheme described above.

If a wooden floor can still be disassembled with minimal labor costs, then a concrete floor will require enormous effort and a lot of time to remove old screed. Therefore, it is extremely important to insulate concrete floors during the construction phase of a house. The work itself is as follows:

after creating and compacting a cushion of sand and crushed stone on the ground, we perform a rough screed and lay a layer of waterproofing on top;

Important! To reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, expanded clay should be added to it. Such concrete will have a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), and not the usual 1.5 W/(m K).

Next we lay the thermal insulation. For concrete floors, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used. In addition to these materials, others can be laid. The main thing is to choose a material with the greatest strength and density of more than 160 kg/m3;
A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of this multi-layer cake and a finishing screed is poured, after which the finishing floor covering is laid.

Insulation of walls from inside a brick house

In most cases, insulation of walls inside a brick house is not carried out due to the presence of external thermal insulation. But sometimes internal insulation is still necessary. Especially when the thickness of the walls or the maximum layer of thermal insulation on the outside is not enough to retain heat. To insulate brick walls from the inside, mineral and stone wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork or “warm” plaster.

Internal insulation of the walls of a brick house is as follows:

clean the walls from dirt and saturate them with primer;
using wooden beams or a metal profile, arrange a frame and secure it to the wall. The frame posts are placed in increments of 40 cm or 60 cm;
if necessary, having trimmed the thermal insulation to fit the width of the opening between the posts, we lay it inside the resulting structure;
We cover the top with plasterboard, plaster and apply the final finish.

Important! Internal insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is extremely undesirable due to the toxicity and flammability of these materials.

Insulation of the attic and roof of a brick house

When it comes to the question of how best to insulate a brick house, it is impossible to ignore such parts of the house as the roof and attic. After all, it is through them that up to 40% of the total heat loss can evaporate. This is due to the simple laws of physics, according to which warm air lighter than cold and therefore all the heat goes up. Therefore, in order to maintain heat in a brick house, it is so important to insulate the roof and attic.

To insulate the attic you need to do the following:

if you use floor beams as joists, you can build the already familiar structure of a wooden floor with insulation, but with minor changes;
We cover the beams themselves and the space between them with a vapor barrier;
then fill the space between the beams with ecowool, mineral wool or basalt wool;
On top, for ease of movement around the attic, we lay a subfloor made of rough boards.

Important! To maintain the performance properties of the thermal insulation of the attic and roof, it is necessary to equip high-quality ventilation of the under-roof space.

Insulation of the roof of a house is carried out as follows:

We lay it across the entire area of the structure between the rafters and secure a vapor barrier. We let the edges of the material overlap each other and glue them with tape;
We place thermal insulation material in the space between the rafters. This can be polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral or basalt wool, as well as any other insulation with low thermal conductivity and low density;
We lay another layer of vapor barrier on top and, to maintain the insulation in place, we attach the sheathing in increments of 0.4 - 0.5 m.

Despite the large amount of work involved in creating thermal insulation for a brick house, everything is quite simple. Anyone who knows how to use a tool and has minimal experience can carry out insulation. construction work. In order for everything to be done correctly, it is necessary to adhere to SNiPs and recommendations of specialists.

The brick is durable and non-flammable material, it can withstand high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various heights. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. The problem can be solved by increasing the thickness brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. Last option involves the construction of a building using well masonry and the placement of a heat insulator during the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away the usable area of the premises, it provokes dampness in the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to complete work at any time. convenient time and low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influence, so they will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The opportunity to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Absence of moisture, mold and mildew on the surface of the walls.

Main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

In order for the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that can withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

Water absorption coefficient is a characteristic of a product that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low index.
Thermal conductivity coefficient - main criterion when studying insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost per 1 hour per square meter. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is used as a guide when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products according to this criterion are polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
Flammability - determines how dangerous a material is in a fire. The products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic; preference is best given to G1, which go out without an open flame. Expanded polystyrene boards are subject to fire, when using them for cladding, choose those marked “C”, meaning self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight on the structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The sound insulation level indicates the possibilities for reducing penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators have this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of insulation for health. For exterior finishing he doesn't have of decisive importance, But natural materials preferable to synthetic ones.
Difficulty of installation - if the work is done with your own hands, you need to choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for exterior cladding of a house includes a few products:

foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have different composition, cost and installation features. Let's look at each material in detail.

Polystyrene foam - slabs of foamed polystyrene, which are cells filled with gas. This structure provides low thermal conductivity 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The density of the foam is 35-50 kg/m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is capable of absorbing moisture, and therefore requires waterproofing. The disadvantage of insulation is flammability, vapor permeability and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of polystyrene foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the the best insulation materials, it does not burn, is safe, has a low density - 35-125 kg/m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, thanks to which mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and allows steam to pass through. For effective protection you need a layer of 10-15 cm.

The product is available in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg/m3. The material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. The insulation is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster is a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from polystyrene foam granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, is vapor permeable, resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and insulates sound well. Plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg/m3, so it places additional load on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

When talking about how to insulate a brick house from the outside, you cannot miss the opportunity of finishing with thermal panels. This material is characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The base of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to frost and moisture, can be quickly installed and does not require additional finishing.

Mineral wool thermal insulation technology

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
« wet facade", gluing slabs to walls.

Mineral wool is optimally suited for the first method, which involves creating a sheathing and a multi-layer cake with vapor and waterproofing.

The surface of the walls is covered with a sheathing made of timber treated with an antiseptic compound or a metal profile. The guides are placed in increments less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow the material to be laid more tightly.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the sheathing with a stapler.
Thin slats are placed on top of the moisture protection, which will provide an air gap between the insulation and the cladding.
The siding is attached to the slats.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be installed without a frame. Correct installation of insulation begins with screwing a horizontal metal profile at the bottom, which will keep the material from sliding. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide head. Each row begins with an offset. After finishing all surfaces of the facade, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam according to the “wet facade” principle

Panels of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam are attached to the wall using a simple technology called “wet facade” due to the presence of processes that require drying.

The brick wall is being prepared: cleaning from dirt, eliminating defects, priming.
A metal profile is attached at the base level, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is applied pointwise to the insulation boards and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening is carried out with dowels - in the corners and in the center.
Work begins from the bottom of the corner, the rows are laid offset for the stability of the structure.
A plastic mesh for reinforcement is laid on top of the finished insulation and a thin base layer of plaster is applied.
After the solution has dried, priming and final finishing with decorative plaster are performed.

How to apply warm plaster to walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially if you lack painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned and protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
A plaster mesh and beacons are attached to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
You can create various decorative textures on the finished surface.

The insulation materials considered can be used in any region; the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.