Do-it-yourself Swedish oven masonry. Do-it-yourself Swedish stove design, design features, order. Laying the furnace in order

A Swedish stove can be built with your own hands only if you have home handyman You already have solid masonry skills and at least a little experience working with. The Swede itself is a rather complex structure, clearly not intended for primary training in such technologies.

There are several models of the Swedish type stove:

- a heating and cooking stove, which has only a stove, and also, if desired, equipped with an additional oven, a water heating tank and a niche for drying;

- a fireplace stove, which can be located in such a way that the heating and cooking part of the structure will go into the kitchen, and the decorative fireplace side will go into the bedroom or living room;

- “Swedish stove” with a stove bed - this stove has a more complex design, but it can serve as a warm bed in winter.

The model is selected depending on the area that can be used for it, since some of the varieties are quite massive, while others, on the contrary, have compact shapes.

When choosing a stove, in addition to the area, of course, the requirements for functionality are taken into account. For example, if a “Swedish” is installed in the kitchen and its location does not border on other rooms, then the choice usually falls on a compact one. If it is necessary to heat the entire house, then an appropriate place is selected for the stove, where it will heat two rooms at once, or an option with a stove bench, from which sufficient heat also comes from a large number of heat.

"Swedish" with a fireplace is perfect for romantic interior– it is usually chosen by those owners who like to spend evenings near the fire. If the fireplace compartment is laid correctly, it will also be able to heat the room into which its firebox opens.

Whatever furnace model is chosen, work still begins with the construction of the foundation.

Foundation for the stove

It is recommended to lay the foundation for the stove when laying the foundation of the house, if this is possible, of course. If not, then you will have to build it in a ready-made building. But in both cases, it is necessary to separate the foundation of the furnace from concrete base the entire building. This is necessary so that if one of the structures shrinks unsuccessfully, it would not “pull” the other along with it, thereby creating deformation of the masonry.

For the massive structure of the furnace, it is arranged reliable foundation, which should go deep into the ground by 700 ÷ 800 mm.

If the soil freezes to great depths, the pit is also deepened - this parameter must be known in advance, even before construction begins.

It is also important for the reliability of the structure to know the characteristics of the soil in the construction region, since the depth of the foundation and its strengthening also depend on this. You can “get hold of” all this data from any local construction organization.

If the furnace is laid in an already built house with a built-in floor, then the markings are made directly on the covering, so as to cut out the required fragment and get to the ground level. The hole in the floor must have dimensions that exceed the base of the stove by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each side.

Next, the soil is marked and a pit of the required depth is dug.
The bottom of the finished pit is compacted, and sand is poured onto it, which is moistened with water and also compacted thoroughly. The thickness of the compacted sand cushion should be at least 100 ÷ 200 mm, depending on the depth of the pit.
Then follows crushed stone - it is poured onto a sand bed in a layer 150 ÷ 170 mm thick. It also needs to be compacted well.
The next stage is the installation of formwork under the foundation. As a rule, its sides are made from low-grade boards. If gaps form between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is lined with plastic film, which is secured to the board walls using a stapler.

In addition to film, roofing felt can be used to waterproof the foundation, which also needs to be fixed to the walls.

The formwork is raised above the ground to the height of the foundation, which may not reach the floor level by one layer of brick or rise above it by 80 ÷ 100 mm.

The second option would be to install formwork only around the pit, but the waterproofing material must be secured.

Then a coarse mortar is poured, which is made from coarse crushed stone and cement, with a small addition of sand. The thickness of this layer should be about 150 mm.
Next, a reinforcement structure made of metal rods is installed, which is pressed into fresh mortar.

The next layer is poured thinner cement mortar, to the height of the soil - it is leveled and left to set.
After it sets and hardens a little, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it.

Having laid the mesh, it is filled with concrete mortar to the height of the formwork. The poured solution is leveled, and after that the foundation must completely set, harden and gain the necessary strength. These processes will take quite a lot of time, and usually subsequent operations proceed no earlier than after 25 ÷ 28 days.

After this, the upper part of the formwork is removed, and a waterproofing layer is laid on the flat surface of the foundation, consisting of 2-3 layers of roofing material glued together in thickness.

Upon completion of this stage of foundation preparation, you can proceed directly to

"Swedish" with fireplace

This stove model will completely satisfy those who prefer a practical approach to things and appreciate the mood of romantic evenings. It is installed so that the cooking side of the structure goes into the kitchen, and the fireplace goes into one of the living spaces intended for relaxation.

The stove becomes part of the wall or a separator of two zones in big room, which is typical for country houses or small private houses.

"Swedish" from the fireplace side

The internal structure of the fireplace stove can be seen in its cross-sectional images, where you can clearly see how the metal elements are installed.

Materials

To build this stove, you need to purchase high-quality building materials - only in this case can you get a reliable, strong, durable and beautiful-looking structure. Bricks and building mixtures are purchased with a reserve, approximately 15% more than the material required for construction. In addition, some metal (cast iron and steel) elements will be required.

So, for this “Swedish” model you need to purchase:

Red, preferably clinker brick, from which it is easier to make neat, even masonry. 717 pieces will be needed, not counting the construction of the pipe.
Silicate or fireclay bricks for laying combustion chambers - 154 pieces.
Sand, clay and cement or ready-made heat-resistant mixtures for mortar.
Steel wire, 4 ÷ 5 mm in diameter - for securing cast iron parts.
Asbestos sheet and the same cord - for fire protection walls of the house, and for protection metal elements from premature burnout.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 ÷ 1030 mm - 2 pcs., it is needed to strengthen the surface of the hob.
Steel strips 50x5x920mm - 3 pcs., 50x5x54 mm - 2 pcs., 50x5x48 mm - 2 pcs. These parts will be required to create the basis for laying the next brick row above the cooking chamber.
Grate, size 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Doors for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
Oven 450×360×300 mm -1 pc.
Valves for chimney channels 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Hob 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
Fireplace grate, 690 ÷ 700 mm long - it can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel rod.
Metal sheet, size 500×700 mm, 2 pcs. It will be needed if this option is chosen for flooring in front of the firebox. Instead, ceramic tiles can be used for this purpose.

This stove model has dimensions of 1020x890x2170 mm. In addition, the fireplace insert protrudes forward of the entire structure by 130 mm.

Prices for clinker bricks

Fire brick

Furnace laying

To have an idea of how smoke is removed inside the structure through the smoke exhaust channels, and how the other elements are located, you need to carefully study the plan diagram. It will help you understand the internal cavities and chambers, as well as determine how bricks are laid in a particular section of the furnace being built.

Diagram of a “Swede” with a fireplace, the path of movement of combustion products - picture one...

... and the second

Having such a diagram, you can use it to carry out preliminary dry laying of the entire structure - this will help to finally clarify the configuration of each of the rows.

In addition, experienced craftsmen advise that when working on the construction of brick kilns already on mortar, first try to lay each of the rows “dry”. This is done in order to pre-size the bricks for each row. Only after spending these preliminary processes, it will be possible to begin the final laying of the mortar.

Thanks to the drawn up order schemes, it will be much easier to try your hand at building the “Swedish”.

Before you start laying out the first row, you need to make precise markings on the roofing material laid on the foundation - draw out the edges of the future base using chalk.

According to the markings made, the first row of the oven is laid out. It must be mounted perfectly accurately, since its evenness will determine how slender and reliable the entire structure will be.

Row 1 is continuous. It should be perfectly smooth

The first row, as in all oven models, is laid out solid.

Second row - installing a fireplace grate

The second row is laid out in a slightly different layout, but it is also completely filled with brick. The area where the fireplace insert will be located is laid out sand-lime brick. Having laid out a row, holders are installed on top of it, and the fireplace grate is fixed to them by welding.

3rd row - the beginning of the formation of internal cavities and channels

In the third row, they begin to design the blower chamber and cleaning channels, as well as a place to install the oven. In addition, they begin to install a vertical smoke exhaust duct. On the other side of the structure, the fuel chamber of the fireplace begins to form.

Simultaneously with the laying of this row, they are built into it in the right places doors that are secured using prepared pieces of wire.

From the back of the chamber for installing the oven, a passage is left connected to the cleaning chambers. To do this, the corner of the brick installed in this place is cut off.

The fourth row completely repeats the third in configuration, only the bricks are “in the dressing”.

5th row - places are prepared for the grate and combustion chamber

On the fifth row on top of the blower chamber, a place for installation is made, but otherwise it completely repeats the previous rows. The row is laid out with sand-lime bricks in areas that will be in direct contact with the fire - these are the areas where the grate will be laid.

“Trying on” the oven

Then, the grate is installed - it must be fixed to the solution.

On the same row you can install the firebox door, tying it on the sides with a rope, or you can move its installation to the sixth row, leaving an opening between the bricks for it.

Row 6 - installing the combustion chamber door

On the sixth row, a door is installed (if it was not installed on the fifth) and secured with wire, which is embedded in the seams between the rows.

Sand-lime bricks, which will create a wall between the firebox and the oven cabinet, are installed on the edge. Thanks to this design, the oven will warm up faster.

On the sixth row, the gap left in the lower rows behind the oven is closed - between it and the laid out vertical channel.

Seventh row - metal strips to cover the fireplace chamber

The seventh row does not differ from the sixth in practically anything, except that a metal strip is laid on top of it, which will become a support for laying the next row of bricks.

On the eighth row, work proceeds according to the diagram.

8th row - the oven is completely installed in its place

The ninth row has the same structure as the previous one, except for the peculiarity that two metal strips are placed above the oven, on which the next row will be laid. These strips will help relieve stress on the camera's support points.

On the tenth row, the place for laying the hob is first prepared. The edge above the fire door and oven is reinforced with a corner. Asbestos strips are placed under the edges of the hob. On the left edge of the stove, in the wall, a gap is left for installing the door.

Row 11 - the beginning of laying out a niche for the hob

On the eleventh row, the formation of the cooking niche begins. Bricks placed on the right side of the slab cover the hole between the oven wall and the slab that was left uncovered in the previous row. The remaining elements are laid out according to the diagram.

12 row - Special attention beveled part of bricks

At this level, the bricks covering the combustion chamber are cut diagonally. This is necessary for the correct direction of smoke towards the chimney.

The 13th row is laid out exactly according to the order pattern.

Row 14 - the beginning of the formation of the mantelpiece

On the fourteenth row, a fireplace mantel is formed by protruding the brick in front of the masonry and on the sides, approximately 25 mm.

Row 15 - extension of the mantelpiece

On this row, the shelf continues to form above the fireplace - the bricks are now laid perpendicular to the bottom row. They are pushed forward and to the sides by another 25 mm.

Row 16 - strips and corner for laying the ceiling of a niche

On the sixteenth row, the niche above the hob is covered with steel strips, and a corner is placed on the front edge.

18 - 17 rows - complete overlap of the cooking niche

Rows 17 and 18 are performed in order. When laying them, the cooking niche is covered with two continuous rows of bricks.

Row 19 - internal channel system and cleaning doors

On the 19th row, the chimney openings are made. The brick separating the fireplace and vertical stove channel is cut diagonally on both sides. In addition, doors are installed on the cleaning channels.

Row 20 is laid out according to the pattern. When installing it, no additional elements are installed.

Row 21 - another inspection door

On the 21st row, another door is installed - on the cleaning channel.

On row 22, a door is also installed - on another cleaning channel.

Row 23 is laid out strictly according to the pattern.

Row 24 - installing the valve

On row 24, a damper is installed on the fireplace flue duct

Row 25 - another bolt

On row 25, a second chimney damper is installed.

On row 26, the last door is installed on the cleaning channel, and the vertical channel is also connected to the gas outlet.

27 ÷ 28 rows are mounted according to the scheme, and are almost identical to each other.

29 ÷ 30 rows cover all channels with a continuous covering, leaving only one hole for the chimney pipe, in which the bricks are laid out with a bevel.

31 row - the last, common valve is installed

On the thirtieth first row, a common damper is installed on the chimney.

Pipe laying begins from row 32. Its height will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The thickness of the chimney walls should be at least half a brick.

If you decide to build just such a stove model, then the video attached to the article will be a good help:

Video: Swedish stove with fireplace part

"Swedish" with a bed

This “Swedish” model turns out to be quite massive, as it has a fairly large bed, which is located in the rear part of the structure.

A very practical Swedish model with a heated bed

This type of heating structure is especially suitable for country houses, since, despite its massive size, this stove will help save space, because having it, you don’t have to install a bed.

In addition, summer nights are not always warm, and a heated stove in the evening can keep the stove warm until the morning.

The size of the stove is 1781x1280 mm, the stove bench is 1781 mm long and 630 mm wide. Such a heating structure can provide heat to a living area of 30 square meters. m.

A fully folded stove must be dried before heating at full power for approximately 10 ÷ 12 days. This can be done naturally by opening all the valves and doors, or you can help in this matter in an “artificial” way, which uses a regular high-power light bulb. It is placed in the firebox, then the door is closed, the power is turned on and left for the entire drying period.

After this, the initial fire is carried out with a small addition of firewood for three to four days. Then the amount of fuel is gradually increased. This drying will strengthen and harden the mortar in the joints.

If you plan to produce external finishing structures, this process is carried out only after the furnace has completely dried, and even better, after one season of full operation.

Doing it on your own is not as easy as it seems, so before getting down to business, it is recommended to realistically assess your strengths. You can conduct several trial training sessions by laying bricks on the mortar as usual. It is imperative to thoroughly, down to the smallest detail, understand the nuances of the procedures. Only after successful completion of such “training” processes will it be possible to begin independent work on the stove. And all the same, it would not be superfluous to protect your work by finding the opportunity to invite a knowledgeable person for control and guidance.

Among the variety of furnace equipment, the Swedish model occupies a special place. The design is a kind of symbiosis of Russian and Dutch ovens. The multi-pass principle in combination with elements of bell-type furnaces made it possible to create an effective thermal unit in which small dimensions are successfully combined with high efficiency (up to 80%) and versatility of operation.

What is a Swedish stove and where is it used?

If you recall the life of an ordinary Swedish family in the 18th-19th centuries, it will immediately become clear what interests the stove served in each home. The hostess was engaged in cooking and household chores, the owner was mainly involved in fishing or hunting. The harsh northern climate and capricious changeable winds made it necessary not only to heat the living space, but also to often dry shoes and clothes. Food can wait a long time for the hunter to return from hunting. In case of hypothermia, you need to quickly warm up and restore your health. The design of the Swedish stove meets all these needs.

Today, the requirements for stoves are no different from medieval ones. People still need warmth, the ability to cook food, a comfortable temperature while relaxing and minimal effort to maintain all this.

The design of the Swede, its distinctive features and principle of operation

Most often, when mentioning a Swedish stove, associations arise with the word compactness. And not without reason.

A Swedish stove is a compact brick heating unit that can be used to raise the temperature in a room, heat food or dry clothes

The movement of gases from the firebox to the pipe occurs through a channel chimney. Heat exchange is carried out in bell-shaped elements above the firebox and drying chamber.

One of the main features of the oven is the quick heating of the oven, located on the same level as the firebox.

Among the main visible design features are the following.

A large oven is a must. Moreover, the material from which it is made is not sheet or tin, but cast iron. This is a fundamental point that will tell a lot to an experienced stove maker. The oven is designed not so much for baking bread, but for quickly heating the kitchen in the very first minutes after kindling. Since the increased dimensions of the firebox are essentially a bell, chemical pyrolysis (afterburning) of the fuel occurs with a large release of thermal energy. This energy immediately enters the walls of a nearby oven. By opening the oven doors wide 3-4 minutes after the start of the fire, oven users receive a powerful stream of hot air that comes from below (the cabinet is located below or at the level of the firebox). This will instantly warm a small room, which, for example, a Russian stove cannot do.
The oven is located on the same level as the combustion chamber and is made of cast iron, so the heat from it spreads throughout the room 3-4 minutes after the start of the fire
The upper niche, which in the classic version can accommodate several sets of winter clothes and shoes. No matter how wet a person gets, after 4-5 hours the clothes will be completely dry.
The upper niche is large enough to dry several sets of clothes and shoes
The upper niche is heated both from the first heat and from the secondary heat, so the temperature in it is stable even after the fire has stopped.
The lower niche is the recess directly above the hob. A very practical device that performs the function of a thermos. Scandinavian fishermen left food prepared in the evening in it. And she remained there warm until the morning. Neither mice nor insects could penetrate into the lower niche. The recess was covered with a wooden lid on top.
After finishing cooking, the lower niche can be closed with a wooden barrier
The movement of gases in a Swedish stove is designed in such a way that immediately after finishing the fire it is necessary to close the view tightly. Otherwise, the oven will cool down very quickly, and it will also suck in cold air from outside. She inherited this property of the Swedish stove from a Dutch woman. The connection between the firebox and the chimney channels is carried out without the use of a heater, since this element is quite complex and increases the cost of the stove.
The channels for the movement of flue gases in a Swedish furnace are designed in such a way that a valve closed too late can cause rapid cooling
The rear part of the Swedish stove is located in the adjacent living space - the bedroom or living room. It may be adjacent to a bed or fireplace. The resting shelf (to save space) was traditionally made about 1.8 m long and 0.65–0.7 m wide. And since it was inconvenient to sleep in such a narrow space, they placed a big bed, which was thus heated from below with warm air. Under the bed, clean linen and clothes were stored in drawers, which were always dry and warm.

It is noteworthy that initially the cooking niche was made in the form of an arch. But this required high qualifications from the master stove maker. Since the shape of the niche was changed to rectangular, the construction of the furnace has become accessible to a wide range of builders. The consumption of materials and time has decreased.

Video: structure of a Swedish stove - firebox, oven, smoke ducts

Advantages and disadvantages of a Swedish woman

So, after a short introduction, we will highlight the main advantages of the Swedish oven.

The stove also has certain disadvantages that are also worth noting.

The need to use exclusively quality materials. Masonry is carried out only on fireclay clay.
The weak point is the combustion chamber door. This area experiences high thermal loads, so a conventional door made from stamped sheet metal will not last long. It is permissible to use only cast doors equipped with reliable fastenings - metal tabs or “whiskers”.
Comfortable use of a Swedish stove requires a certain space in which it is effective. This is about 35–40 m2 of living space.
The Swede is not suitable for heating in the country or in office premises in irregular and seasonal mode. After idle time, it requires long and careful drying. Absorbed moisture can only be removed by leisurely, “accelerating” trenches. But for places of permanent residence, a Swedish stove is one of the best options, surpassing even a Russian stove in a number of indicators.

Types of Swedish stoves

The most popular among users are:

a stove combined with a fireplace, in which the hob faces the kitchen line and the hearth of the fireplace faces the living room;
Swedish stove, equipped with an oven, dryer and hobs, simultaneously heating the entire room;
Swede with a sunbed that performs heating functions.

In addition to differences in functionality, Swedes are widely used by designers to create a certain flavor in the house. Apply different kinds finishing - from the medieval style of natural stone to modern trends. The stoves are finished with titanium moldings and covered with artificial facing materials, turning them into unusual decorative elements.

Swede back wall, finished natural stone, looks like a decorative partition

It is not surprising that Scandinavian designers are still the legislators of the “Swedish style”. The country has a well-developed production of basic and decorative materials for the full cycle of building a national stove. Components, including clay mixtures and metal fittings, are in demand around the world.

Calculation of the main parameters of a Swedish oven

The furnace design process involves determining correct sizes all its structural elements.

Only the use of reliable sources of design documentation (procedures) can ensure guaranteed reliability. Today download the order from detailed description masonry costs no more than 100 rubles. Ordering a project of non-standard dimensions costs about 1000 rubles. You should not save these small amounts only to lose much more later. All dimensions must be strictly observed without exception.
The subject of separate calculations may be the dimensions of the chimney, which are determined depending on the power and heat transfer of the furnace equipment.

To independently determine the cross-sectional area of the pipe, two indicators are needed - the size of the firebox and the specific calorific value of the fuel used. The first is calculated by multiplying the linear dimensions of the firebox (length, width and height). The second is in special tables. Heat transfer is calculated using the formula W=E beat ∙V t ∙ 0.63 ∙ 0.4 ∙ 0.8, where W is heat transfer in kW, V t is the volume of the furnace, and E beat is the specific calorific value, which is found from the tables. Numerical coefficients mean furnace efficiency (0.4), fuel combustion coefficient (0.8) and furnace load factor (0.63).

Table: specific calorific value of firewood (kW/m3)

For example, let’s calculate the cross-section of a chimney for a firebox with dimensions of 0.4x0.3x0.4 m.

The volume of such a combustion chamber will be V t = 0.4∙0.3∙0.4 = 0.048 m 3 .
If the stove is heated with birch wood with a humidity of 25%, the power will be W = 2352∙0.048∙0.63∙0.4∙0.8 = 22.76 kW.
Next, another table is used - the dependence of the chimney cross-section on the power of the stove. From this we determine that the maximum pipe size needed is 270x270 mm.

Table: choosing the size of the chimney according to the furnace power

power, kWt	Pipe dimensions, mm
up to 3.5	140x140
3,5–5,2	140x200
5,2–7,2	140x270
7,2–10,5	200x200
10,5–14	200x270
over 14	270x270

Necessary materials and tools for building a furnace

Despite all the admonitions on the Internet that there is nothing easier than building a stove, before you get down to business you need to soberly evaluate and weigh your strengths. A Swedish oven is not a simple design, requiring scrupulousness and precision in execution. You need to have a good understanding of drawings and adequately read procedures. It is necessary to mix the mortar correctly and have basic mason skills. Be able to maintain dimensions and lay even rows of bricks.

It is necessary to prepare all tools and materials for work. Tools you will need:

mason's trowel;
hammer-pick, rubber mallet;
construction plumb line, twine;
rule, lath order;
tape measure, square, hydraulic level, marker or pencil;
shovels, buckets.

To build a stove you will need a standard stove-bricklayer's kit

The use of power tools will significantly speed up the work - hand drill with a mixing whisk and a grinder with a diamond blade for cutting bricks.

Spraying diamond chips onto the disc makes it easy to cut bricks

To prepare the solution, it is recommended to use a metal sieve with a fine mesh for sifting sand and clay. It is very important to prepare the solution from the right materials. As already noted, ordinary clay cannot withstand temperature loads; only fireclay clay can be used. White, blue or dark blue clay, located at a depth of 5–8 m, is considered ideal. Those who decide to prepare this component on their own can be advised to look for it on steep river banks or in deep gullies. The most suitable breed will be medium fat content, without sandy inclusions.

The clay is mixed in a construction trough and left for several days to achieve the required consistency.

The solution is soaked in a trough for several days until the lumps disappear and excess water comes out above the surface of the clay sludge. After draining the excess water, the solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream. If you apply such a solution to a dry vertical wall with a trowel, it will not flow, but will hang and harden in this position.

To correctly determine the suitability of clay when purchasing, stove makers advise carefully sniffing the rock. If any odors are present, even pleasant ones, the clay is discarded. Any “aroma” indicates the presence of organic compounds in the composition, which will burn out when heated. This means that the strength of the masonry will decrease.

List of necessary materials for the construction of a Swedish stove:

Red solid brick M-150.
Fireclay brick grade ШБ-5 (GOST 530–212).
Fireclay clay for masonry.
Doors of the combustion and ash chambers, dampers, valves.
Oven with dimensions 45x36x30 cm.
Hob 41x71 cm.
Cast iron grate.
A metal corner with a shoulder size of at least 4 cm and a thickness of 5 mm. Strips of metal of the same thickness. A metal sheet.
Asbestos gasket in the form of a cord. Asbestos sheet for fireproof cuttings.

Preparatory work before assembling the stove

An important part of the preparatory stage is choosing the location of the stove in the overall layout of the house. Since the main task of the stove is heating, the optimal location is considered to be the center of the room. But usually, for practical reasons, the location is shifted closer to the front door. As a rule, the stove is folded simultaneously with the construction of the walls and roof. To do this, the foundation is prepared in advance, because the stove weighs about 3 tons. Only a well-filled, well-established foundation can withstand such a load per 1 m2.

The optimal location of the stove in a residential building is at the intersection interior partitions near the entrance doors

If the stove is being built in a house that has already been built, it is necessary to take into account the chimney outlet above the roof. When installing a pipe, it is important not to violate the rigidity roof frame and do not get on the rafters, as this will significantly complicate the task of building the chimney.

Favorable time for preparatory work considered to be the summer-autumn period. It is best to give the foundation time to dry for at least 1 month, but ideally six months, filling it in advance in the fall.

Holes in the attic or interfloor ceilings are made immediately before laying the stove.

The roofing covering is disassembled last, when the laying of the chimney riser is completed.

Pouring the foundation

Let us dwell in more detail on making a foundation for a Swedish stove, since this is very important point for its further use.

The depth of the foundation is determined depending on the region. The starting point is the depth of soil freezing in winter. If you make the foundation higher than this layer, displacements in the horizontal plane are possible. Therefore, on average, a depth of 0.8 to 1.0 m is selected.
The sand cushion is filled in for two days for shrinkage and leveling.

Linear dimensions are calculated according to the dimensions of the furnace itself. The foundation is laid 10–15 cm wider and longer than the dimensions of the stove. This is a generally accepted standard for the construction of soil supports.

The linear dimensions of the foundation should exceed the dimensions of the furnace by 10–15 cm

A sand cushion 15–20 cm high is poured between the soil and concrete. With its help, the base of the future foundation is leveled and the pressure on the soil is evenly distributed. In addition, sand perfectly allows water to pass through it. In the future, it will remove moisture from the foundation when groundwater enters.

After sand, it is allowed to use a large fraction of crushed stone, broken brick, slate, tiles and other construction waste. They are bonded with cement mortar. If possible, use natural stone, which is highly durable.

The reinforcement is placed closer to the upper layers. Its purpose is to strengthen the concrete mass and evenly distribute temperature changes over the entire area. That's why metal mesh laid in a horizontal plane 10–15 cm from the surface of the concrete screed.

The reinforcing mesh is fixed in the upper layers of concrete, not reaching the surface of the foundation 10–15 cm

Immediately after pouring, the upper plane is leveled with a rule (or a wide spatula). And after setting and drying, several layers of roofing felt are laid on it, which will act as waterproofing. Some craftsmen prefer roofing felt to roofing felt. Others are synthetic materials with metal foil on one side. In any case, waterproofing is necessary, and you should not forget about it.

The waterproofing layer consists of several solid sheets of roofing felt laid on top of each other

The hole in the floor is cut in such a way that it is convenient to make the stove masonry. And after completing the work, build up the flooring directly to the stove body and install plinths. To do this, add at least two additional joists on which the edges of the floors rest. They are usually made from construction timber (50x75 mm and above) and attached to uncut floorboards with self-tapping screws. The logs are placed along the walls of the furnace after work on the foundation is completed.

Practice has shown that a feature of the Swedish stove, like the Dutch stove, is a powerful downward flow of thermal energy. Therefore, before starting masonry, several layers of heat-insulating material are laid under the base of the furnace. Usually this is basalt cardboard - an inexpensive and durable heat insulator with a thickness of 5 mm. A more expensive, but also practiced method is to lay the first row of the furnace base with fireclay bricks. The low thermal conductivity of the brick prevents the foundation from heating up.

Basalt cardboard is an inexpensive and reliable heat-insulating material for constructing furnaces.

Video: foundation for a brick kiln

Making a Swedish stove with your own hands: ordering diagram, construction technology

Let's take a closer look at the masonry of a heating and cooking model of a Swedish stove of small dimensions, suitable for a living space of 40 m 2.

Any stove is placed using the order - detailed diagram placement of bricks in each row

Row No. 1 and row No. 2 are solid. It is necessary to observe the displacement and ligation of bricks. Make sure the angles and horizontal plane are correct. These two rows serve as the basis for the entire mass of the oven; it is important to fold them without errors.
The first two rows are laid out as a continuous plane and must be checked for horizontalness and evenness of corners
Rows No. 3 and 4 lay the ash pan and holes for soot cleaning. Blower doors and three cleaning doors are installed. Fastening is carried out using “whiskers” - twisted steel wire, which is walled up in the brickwork. Another fastening option is fixing tabs. When installing metal fittings, it is necessary to leave a technological gap of 3–5 mm, designed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal. An asbestos cord sealant is placed inside this gap.
In the third and fourth rows, a blower and cleaning holes are formed
In row No. 5 a combustion chamber is formed. The laying is done with fireclay bricks from right to left. A grate is mounted on the bottom of the firebox. A thermal gap (4–5 mm) is left along the entire perimeter of the grate. To ensure a stable position of the grate, the gaps are filled with sand.
The bottom of the firebox must be lined with refractory bricks
The oven is being installed. Fastening is carried out in the same way - by weaving steel wire into the masonry mortar.
The oven is secured to wire “whiskers” that are embedded in the masonry
In row No. 6, the laying of the chimney and combustion chamber begins.
In rows No. 7, 8, 9 the combustion chamber is laid out from fireclay bricks. Between the red bricks of the body and the fireclay bricks of the firebox, a gap is left that is not filled with mortar. The goal is to prevent deformation of the housing as a result of thermal expansion.
The combustion chamber cavity is lined with fireclay bricks
At this stage, the combustion door is installed. The frame is attached to the walls of the furnace either with wire or with a threaded bracket with “claws”.
In row No. 8, the vertical channel from the lower chamber is blocked. Between the firebox and the oven, the brick is installed “on edge”.
A separate brick blocks the entrance from the lower chamber
In order for the exhaust gases to escape into the chimney channels, in the ninth row the bricks are ground off at an angle. This can be done carefully using a grinder with a concrete disc coated with diamond chips.
On the tenth row, the firebox and oven are covered with a horizontal partition. Mounted on the front part of the plate metal corner.
The metal corner serves to strengthen the edge of the tile
Row No. 11. A metal hob is installed and the foundation is laid for further masonry.
The eleventh row completes the device of the hob and oven
Rows No. 12,13,14,15 and 16 form chimney channels. Inside the passages it is necessary to level and smooth the mortar (mopping).
Rows No. 17 and 18 rest on metal supports made of strips and angles. The cooking compartment is blocked. To strengthen the metal masonry, the bricks are additionally fastened with wire and corners.
In the 17th and 18th rows, corners and metal strips are laid to support the next row
The cooking chamber closes.
The dryer cavity is laid out along rows No. 21–28
In row No. 27, a valve with a gap of 4–5 mm is installed. An asbestos cord is wound around the valve frame.
In row No. 29, the channels are blocked and only the exit to the pipe remains. Here the masonry expands to form a cornice. The drying chamber is covered with a layer of brick. For this purpose, metal corners and support strips are used.
In the last row, the oven dimensions return to the original ones

Next, the pipe is expanded, which is assumed to be straight, without changing the size of the cross-sectional area. In the attic, it is permissible to convert a brick pipe into a metal one. The internal cross-sectional area should not change. At the intersection of the chimney with the ceiling, according to fire safety rules, it is necessary to make a fluff.

In the place where the pipe comes into contact with the ceiling, it is imperative to lay out fire-fighting fluff.

According to the rules for installing a pipe on the roof, its head must be located at a certain height:

if the chimney is installed at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge of a gable roof, the head should be 0.5 m higher than the ridge;
if the distance from the chimney to the ridge is from 1.5 to 3 m, then the chimney must be raised to the level of the highest point of the roof;
if the chimney is more than 3 m away from the line of intersection of the slopes, its upper edge should be on an imaginary line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 ° from the horizontal plane;
on flat roof the head must rise no less than 0.5 m above its surface;
the total length of the smoke channel from the grate to the top in all cases should not be less than 5 m.

The height of the chimney is determined by its location relative to the ridge

After finishing the masonry, the stove should dry out. It takes about a week to two to dry.

At this time, you cannot heat the stove; you can only open all doors and valves for accelerated ventilation.

Inside the firebox you can put it turned on table lamp or install a fan. This will speed up the drying process.

To understand that the oven is dry, craftsmen place crumpled newspaper in the cleaning holes overnight. If the next morning it remains dry, then you can begin trial kindling. In the first week the paper becomes very damp, and by the end of the second it becomes drier.

It will take up to two weeks to gradually put the furnace into operation. At this time, you need to gradually increase the amount of fuel burned in the firebox. Firewood is added in small portions (2–3 kg) several times a day. Ideally, you should maintain a small flame continuously.

I would like to add a user review about the Swedish stove designed by Buslaev. A very old man from a neighboring village laid the stove for us. It turned out to be a good stove, functional, heats, cooks, bakes and dries at the same time. The wood consumption is low and it warms up quickly.

Blot
https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/50309/page-5

Video: small-sized Swede for a country house

Features of operating a Swedish oven

The main condition for long-term use of a Swedish stove is compliance with the correct combustion mode. She inherited from the Dutch woman “low-speed” thrust, which involves burning fuel at a low speed.

An intense flame will quickly warm and overheat the thin-walled stove body, which can damage the integrity of the masonry and seams.

Therefore, it is not recommended to drown a Swede with thin brushwood, straw or other flammable material.

Swede cleaning and repair

For this type of furnace there are three types of routine maintenance.

Daily cleanings. The ash chamber is cleared of ash and ash. A poker is used to clean the grate and unburned fuel in the combustion chamber.
Annual cleaning of stove chimney ducts. Conducted once a year before the start heating season, usually in the fall.
Once every 3–4 years, a complete inspection of the internal work surface ash pit, firebox, oven, etc. If cracks, falling bricks or mortar are detected, damaged elements are repaired or replaced.

Despite the gigantic supply of heating equipment on the gas and electrical appliances, brick stoves confidently occupy their niche. Popularity among users is growing steadily every year. The Swedish woman is a striking example of the combination of Scandinavian design, practicality and precise academic calculation. Self-installation will save financial costs and gain invaluable practical experience.

Do you need a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-install heating stove for your cottage or small house? At one time I looked through many options and couldn’t find anything better than a Swedish oven. Next, I will tell you in detail how to independently assemble such a structure from the foundation to the pipe.

Illustration	Short description
	Dutch. The classic “Dutch” is intended exclusively for heating the house. Its main advantages are its compactness and relatively low price. But since the Dutch oven does not have a frying surface, people do not favor these stoves. In addition, the efficiency of the Dutch is about a third lower than that of the Swedes.
	Muscovite. This model is considered an improved version of the Swede. With the same dimensions, it is more practical. On the left is a diagram of a Muscovite: Ash pit or “blower”; Soot cleaning hatch; Grate; Firebox; Hob; Closing doors under the hob (installed upon request); Ventilation ducts; Cleaning hatch; Water heating tank; Oven; “Winter” valve; “Summer” valve; Cleaning hatch; Central valve. It is good in operation even for a small house, up to 50 m2 is perfect, but for an amateur it is almost impossible to fold a Muscovite with his own hands.
	Swede with a bed. To some extent, this model can be called a lightweight version of the classic Russian stove, because a stove bench is not just a brick extension, but a plane with full-fledged gentle heating. This Swedish stove is convenient to use, but the design has several serious disadvantages: Large mass; A stove with a stove bench requires a lot of space; For an amateur, the order is quite complicated.
	Swede stove with fireplace. A very convenient option with high efficiency. Typically this design is built between the living room and kitchen. Everything about this stove is good, but, as in the two previous options, putting it together yourself is quite problematic.
	Oven K.Ya. Buslaeva. This heating and cooking stove can claim to be a classic option more than others. With standard dimensions of 1020x770x2010 mm, it can produce up to 3600 kcal/hour, for example, for a Dutch oven a maximum of 2600 kcal/hour. It is the stove K.Ya. Buslaeva and models close to her are best suited for amateurs.

How to fold a Swedish oven yourself

Any such work requires a certain procedure, in particular this includes:

Selection of tools;
Selecting a specific model;
Purchase of material;
Laying the foundation;
Construction of the furnace itself and its commissioning.

Tools and materials

Mandatory tools you will need:

Shovels- bayonet and shovel;
Mixing attachment for an electric drill;
Trough for mixing the solution;
Master OK;
Hammers- rubber mallet and mason's hammer;
Plastering rule length of at least 1.5 m;
Joining;
Hydraulic level;
Building level(preferably with magnets);
Plumb;
Roulette;
Bulgarian with circles under iron and stone;
Tile cutter- electric semi-professional (the price for it starts from about 3,000 rubles).

Keep in mind that it will be very difficult to do without a tile cutter. Fireclay refractory and red solid molded bricks are quite strong materials. During the construction process you will have to make up to 200 cuts, even good grinder It’s not designed for such a volume, you can simply “ruin” it.

As for the model, a simple Swedish heating and cooking stove with 1 oven and 1 hob is best suited for an amateur. Leave fireplaces, sun loungers and other amenities to the professionals.

Indicative list of materials:

Red whole-molded fired brick - 550 pcs;
Fireclay bricks - 70 pcs;

The amount of brick is indicated with a small margin of 5–7%; believe me, a novice stove maker will definitely ruin some of the bricks.

Door for the firebox - 1 piece;
Door for ash pan - 1 piece;
Grate - 1 piece;
Doors for cleaning channels - 3 pcs;
Cast iron hob with round burners 410x710 mm - 1 piece;
Annealed steel wire with a cross section of 3–4 mm or perforated metal tape (for securing the doors);
Corner 50x50 mm - 7 m;
Steel strip 50x5 mm - 2 m;
Oven 450x360x300 mm - 1 piece;
Valves for regulating flue gases - 3 pcs;
Masonry mixture - for masonry of the firebox we use the SHA-28 mortar, everything else is laid out on the basis of clay-fireclay furnace solution(it’s at least a third cheaper).

Don’t even try to make mortar for laying stoves with your own hands; an amateur stove maker cannot do it. Knowing the proportions is not enough; you also need to understand the types of clay and be able to correctly determine its fat content. Make a mistake once, and then have to redo the whole job.

Laying the foundation

We're done with the preparation, now let's talk about how to make a Swedish oven with a stove with your own hands. Under any brick stove you need to pour a foundation, and this structure is done separately. The distance from the stove foundation to the foundation of the house must be at least 100 mm.

Illustrations	Work order
	Scheme. On the left is a classic diagram of laying a furnace foundation. The foundation should be laid just below the freezing point of the soil. But if the house is on capital strip foundation and the stove is located in the center of the building, then its foundation can be laid to a depth of 70–80 cm. The monolith should be slightly larger than the stove; a 100–150 mm belt should be left around the perimeter.
	Arrangement of the pillow. The bottom cushion for the foundation can be made of large or medium crushed stone, as in the photo. Mix sand with gravel (fine crushed stone); Pour the mixture into the pit and tamp it well, periodically watering it with water; Cushion thickness 150–200 mm; Further from the ground, to the level of the finished floor, wooden formwork is placed; After that, everything inside, from the sand and gravel cushion to the top, is covered with waterproofing (roofing felt or thick polyethylene 200 microns).
	Installation of reinforcement cage. We knit the reinforcement cage from a rod 10–12 mm thick. The size of the cells in the reinforcement cage is about 150 mm; it rises almost to the very top.
	Pouring concrete. The monolith under the furnace must be poured in 2 passes: First, the main part of the monolith is poured; it is made from the classic one with a ratio of 1: 3: 4 (M500 cement/quarry sand/gravel or medium crushed stone). This layer does not reach the edge 100–150 mm; Next, you need to strengthen the reinforcing cage from above and fill the remaining 100–150 mm with cement-sand mortar in the proportion: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.
	Leveling the screed. The formwork should be made from planed boards and the top edge should be set strictly horizontally using a level. After pouring the cement-sand mortar, you simply take a plaster rule and use it to level the surface under the stove, as shown in the diagram.
	Aging of concrete. Concrete matures for 28 days and to build a furnace it is advisable to wait this entire period; if you are in a big hurry, you can start construction in 3 weeks, but not earlier. In the first week, the monolith should be regularly watered and covered with polyethylene so that it dries out less.

How to install a Swedish stove

Illustrations	Work order
	Waterproofing. Waterproofing in 2 layers is laid on the concrete monolith. Any membrane will do here; the most affordable and proven option is roofing felt.
	Furnace masonry. The first 2 bottom rows are made solid, the main thing here is to respect the dimensions and maintain the horizon. If the foundation plane is not level, then these two rows can correct the flaws and level the horizon of the furnace.
	3rd row. From the third row of the furnace masonry we already form the ash chamber (1), the lower heating chamber (2) and the smoke exhaust vertical channels (1, 2, 3) Moreover, channels 2 and 3 are combined. Holes are left on the sides of the chambers and channels for the installation of cleaning hatches. Please note - we place 4 bricks in this row on the edge and at the entrance to 1 channel, a quarter of the fireclay brick is placed.
	Bookmarking the doors. At the same stage, the lower doors are laid. All doors have holes at the edges; burnt steel wire is tied to them and embedded in the masonry.
	4–5 rows. In the 4th row we simply continue laying. In the 5th row we make ceilings for all the lower doors and lay them “under” (the bottom) of the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. First, you need to select a groove in the refractory bricks for installing the grate. Groove depth 20–30 mm.
	6 row. In this row, the walls of the firebox, the doors of the firebox and the base for the oven are laid. The walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge. A wall is laid between the firebox and the oven. Plus, in row 6, a demarcation jumper is installed between channels 2 and 3.
	7-8 rows. Row 7 is a continuation of row 6. In the 8th row of fireclay bricks, a jumper is installed between the first ventilation duct and a place under the oven.
	9 row. Here we continue everything the same, only we put a cover on the firebox door.
	10 row. In this row we cover the oven and cut out a seat for the hob in the brick. Please note: a window is left between the firebox and the oven; at this level they must communicate.
	Installing a hob. The arrow shows the place that is not covered with refractory bricks, where a kind of window is obtained. The slab must be “planted” not just on the mortar, but also a 5 mm thick basalt cardboard gasket must be placed in the groove; accordingly, when cutting the groove, these 5 mm must be taken into account.
	Cooking chamber. The cooking chamber is the niche above the hob. In the 11th row we install the base of the cooking chamber and lay in the window near the stove that we have left. At the same time, we place the red brick across.
	From rows 12 to 16 we lay out the cooking chamber.
	Corners. After finishing the laying of the 16th row, we install 4 corners above the cooking chamber. Two singles on the edges, towards each other and 1 paired in the center.
	Covering the cooking chamber. Rows 17 and 18 are laid the same way. This is the arch of the cooking chamber, but on the left in the far corner of the arch there is a steam exhaust duct the size of half a brick. On top of the 18th row, another metal corner is installed along the outer edge.
	Laying out the dryers. The next 4 rows (from 19 to 22) are laid out exactly the same, these will be dryers. After the 22nd row, cover the leftmost dryer metal sheet, the sheet extends 20–30 mm onto the edges of the brick.
	23 row. In row 23, we need to install an adjustable valve on the steam exhaust duct. To do this, we pre-cut a niche in the brick according to the dimensions of the valve; it should be a couple of millimeters larger than the valve itself.
	24 row. This row covers the valve and almost completely repeats the previous one. The only difference is that we no longer make a jumper between the first and second smoke exhaust channels.
	25 row. In this row, the steam exhaust duct is connected to the third smoke exhaust duct.
	Rows 26–27. They fit exactly the same. Once complete, they are fitted with an outer corner and a pair of metal strips above the large right-hand drying chamber.
	Laying sheets under the ceiling. We need the corner and strips as stiffening ribs for the top metal sheet. This sheet covers almost the entire plane, leaving only the third smoke exhaust channel free. The minimum sheet thickness is 2 mm, but it is better to take a sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.
	Lay out the pediment. The next 2 rows are mounted in the same way, but each of them protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the stove.
	Next row We return it to its place, that is, lay it out according to traditional dimensions. As a result, we got a beautiful antique pediment.
	Pipe laying. In the first row of the chimney, we again make a cutout for the valve and insert the valve.
	Second row of pipe. Then the pipe is laid out exactly to the very end, its height varies according to location.

Firing the furnace

After completion of construction, the structure must be allowed to dry “cold” - do not touch it for 2 weeks. It is best to complete construction in the summer, so it will dry out faster.

Commissioning takes 10–12 days:

During the first 3 days, 3–4 kg of straw or hay is burned in the oven;
Then for 2 days we heat it with straw and wood chips, take the same amount of straw and about 2k g of wood chips;
Then we heat it with dry wood for a couple more days, about 3–5 kg per day;
The next 3-4 days progress, the stove is heated with wood and coal, and it needs to be heated 2-3 times a day;
After a couple of weeks, we continuously heat the stove all day long with dry aspen wood, coal or coke.

If the stove has been standing all winter in a cold room, then it also needs to be started carefully in 2 stages:

First you need to open the hatch below the pipe and put crumpled newspaper there, at the same time we put firewood in the firebox. After that, set fire to the newspaper and wait a couple of minutes;
After a couple of minutes, while the newspaper is still burning, we set fire to the wood in the firebox. The newspaper will give the initial movement and start the draft, as a result the firewood should light up normally.

Principle of operation

The high efficiency of the Swede is due to the proper distribution of flue gases:

From the firebox, gases pass under the hob and enter the oven compartment;
Having gone around the oven, the gases enter the lower part of the first smoke exhaust channel, which is located on the back side;
Then the flue gases move like a snake, that is, through the second intermediate channel they enter the third and go into. Thus, almost all the heat remains in the house.

Conclusion

The emergence of modern heating appliances has improved the comfort of life in country house and at the dacha. With the advent of new technologies, it would seem that ancient stoves should go into oblivion.

However, today we can observe another trend.

Stone stoves are becoming increasingly popular, allowing you to heat your home and prepare a hearty meal for the whole family. Today we will tell you what a Swedish oven with oven and stove is. What are its technical features, operating principle, and how can you make this compact and efficient stove with your own hands?

In our country, the Swedish stove is quite popular as a fairly efficient and economical heating design. It can be used both for heating the house and for cooking and heating water.

In terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the classic Russian stove, which from time immemorial has been used in our country for heating the house and cooking. But in terms of fuel efficiency and small dimensions, it can leave the Russian stove far behind.

Therefore, if you are now wondering what design to use to heat your home, pay attention to the technical details of this stove and carefully study its advantages.

As the name suggests, this stove model was invented in Sweden. Some sources indicate that the new masonry technology was brought by Peter I to Russia, while others claim that it was invented much later.

One way or another, the Swede was designed by Swedish engineers in accordance with all the requirements and subtleties of the local climate. This model is very similar in design to a Dutch oven, but its main difference is the presence of a wall, which allows you to place the heating structure in two rooms at once.

Considering the cold and damp climate most of the year, the oven had to not only heat, but also dry clothes overnight, because in the morning hunters and fishermen, who were the majority of the local population, needed to start work again and, in order not to get sick, clothes should should be well dried and warmed up.

Another remarkable difference of the Swedish stove is the combination of two functions: heating the room and cooking. The large cooking surface allows you to prepare dinner for the whole family and heat water. And in the oven, which is usually equipped with a Swede, you can bake bread.

In addition, the unique shape of the firebox - in the form of a bell - allows you to burn fuel efficiently and maintain the smoldering of wood for a long time, which increases the efficiency of the stove.

A small Swedish stove with a hob and oven is designed to be placed in the wall between the kitchen and living room. This type of placement is traditionally used in the northern countries.

Due to this arrangement, the kitchen quickly warms up, it is convenient for the housewife to prepare food, and the residual heat that is generated for cooking effectively warms up the entire room. Thus, with one stack of firewood you solve two problems at once: the house will be both warm and satisfying.

In the old days, such stoves were equipped with additional sunbeds that protected them from the cold at night. Now in modern homes you can find small and compact Swedish stoves with an oven and hob, which are both a functional design and stylish decoration interior

Today on sale you can find a wide variety of Swedish stoves of various designs: with a water circuit, with an oven, with a hob.

Or you can build it with your own hands, having basic experience in laying a stove.

Operating principle and design of the Swedish oven

The compact dimensions of the stove (1020x885x2030mm) allow it to be placed in a small country house or dacha. But despite its small size, these dimensions of the Swedish stove are enough to effectively warm up a room with an area of 30-35 square meters.

Depending on the type and type of Swede, the designs will vary. So, for example, to equip a Swede with a sunbed, it is necessary to equip horizontal channels with a winter/summer mode. Thanks to a special valve, which is installed in a straight vertical channel, it is possible to block the latter.

In winter, such a valve closes, and the heat moves in a large circle, warming up the entire stove along with the sunbed. And in the summer, the damper opens a direct outlet for warm air into a vertical pipe through which the gases escape outside. This makes it possible to use only the hob and oven without heating the room.

The “Dutch” design was taken as the basis for the Swedish stove. This model was already very popular, but it did not allow for effective heating of the room, and the fuel consumption was too high.

Taking into account the harsh climate of Scandinavia, the developers improved the “Dutch” model and added a hob with an oven. Thus, elements were added not only for cooking, but also for heating water and drying clothes.

Whatever the design of the stove - with a sunbed, with an oven or just a stove - the principle of its operation will be the same: channel, like the “Dutch”.

The metal oven is located on the side of the firebox and is designed to directly transfer heat into the room. But cooking and baking is not the main function of the oven.

After lighting the wood, it warms up in literally 5 minutes. The figure shows why the oven heats up so quickly.

Before going down, combustion products heat the oven in the top and sides. On the other hand, the stove is heated by the firebox. The stove warms up from the firebox, heating the room itself.

The upper part was originally designed for the purpose of drying clothes; it is heated by the stove and the ducts running behind it. The channels, going around the entire oven, go into vertical channels and transfer heat to things that are hung out to dry.

The design of the Swedish stove is the result of improved engineering. Unlike Russian and Dutch stoves, it has a more complex device with high efficiency. It has significantly greater thermal power and heat transfer.

If we take the same amount of material and fold the “Dutch”, we will get a power of 2500 kcal/hour, while the Swede will produce all 3500 kcal/hour. In this case, it will be enough to lay only 2 portions of firewood per day to keep the house warm.

If in Scandinavia the Swedes were traditionally installed between the kitchen and the bedroom so that on a cold winter night it would warm the room, today in stylish and modern houses you can increasingly find a stone structure that stands between the living room and the kitchen.

At the same time, it performs a double function: it serves for cooking and is the main decorative decoration living room. On one side it can be equipped with an oven, and on the other with an open fireplace, decorated with an openwork forged damper.

The high efficiency and efficiency of the stove is due to a complex smoke exhaust system, which allows rational use of the heat generated by burning wood. One of the undeniable advantages of the design is the ability to create winter and summer options furnace operation.

The fact is that each type has its own smoke path. This makes it possible to cook food in summer without heating the room.

Many summer residents are familiar with the situation when, at the beginning of the heating season, when lighting the stove, the room begins to smoke. There is also a separate smoke exhaust system, which allows you to effectively use the stove with different functions in both winter and summer.

The main advantages of the Swedish

What is most attractive about the design of the Swedish stove is the efficiency of fuel combustion.

Thanks to a successful technical design, coal, firewood, reeds or small wood burns in the firebox, forming a large mass of thermal energy.

Unlike a traditional Russian stove, which takes a lot of time before it starts giving off heat, a Swedish stove heats up very quickly. Thanks to this, within 10-15 minutes after laying and lighting firewood, the room is filled with warmth.

At the same time, it not only quickly warms up the room, but also retains heat. To do this, after the firewood has died down, it is necessary to close the valve tightly. Otherwise, all the heat that has accumulated in the oven will quickly come out.

Like the popular Dutch oven, the Swede is very compact and does not take up much space in the house, which is indispensable in small country houses where the location of a large Russian stove simply does not make sense.

In addition, the cooking hob and oven provide additional comfort and increase the functionality of the oven.

Advantages of a Swedish woman:

compact dimensions;
functionality (hob, oven, water heating, etc.);
fuel efficiency;
the ability to warm two rooms at the same time.

But, speaking about the advantages of the Swede, it would be unfair not to notice some of her shortcomings.

The design of the Swedish stove is very demanding in terms of the choice of material. If ordinary fireclay brick is suitable for creating a Russian stove, then you need to stock up on very high-quality materials, otherwise the efficiency of the heating apparatus will be greatly reduced.

In addition, the design of such a furnace is quite complex and requires certain knowledge and a very subtle, scrupulous approach. After installation and launch, it will be very difficult to eliminate your mistakes.

Types of Swedes

There are several popular types of Swedish oven.

The stove in the form of a fireplace is designed in such a way that the hob opens into the kitchen, and the decorative part with the firebox and fireplace portal opens into the living room.
Swedish, equipped with a sun lounger. This stove design is quite complex, but in winter it functions as a very cozy and warm bed.
Swedish, equipped with a hob and oven. The back part of such a stove heats the room, and the functional front part is located in the kitchen.

The choice of stove design depends on the area of the room and the functional tasks that it must solve. If the stove is needed exclusively for cooking in the country and is not intended to heat the house in winter, then you can opt for a compact design.

If the stove is installed as the main heating device, then it is better to choose a model that can heat several rooms at once.

It should be said that the Swedish stove design is an ideal option for a small country house, in which the owners live not only in the summer.

Of course, it is also suitable for small dacha. But the Swede gets damp quickly enough, which means it requires constant use. Otherwise, it will have to be dried for a long time each time before putting it into operation, and this significantly reduces its efficiency.

With regular use, such a stove, equipped with a comfortable hob and a functional oven, will become an indispensable household assistant and will give warmth and comfort to the house.

General recommendations for choosing building materials V

You should only take on the construction of a Swedish stove with your own hands if you already have at least some initial masonry experience. This is enough complex design and you should not choose it as your first experiment.

If you have basic bricklaying skills and have already dealt with installing stoves, then our detailed step-by-step instructions will allow you to master this process. Follow the instructions exactly and build each row in accordance with the indicated diagram.

As mentioned above, the Swedish oven requires a very careful and careful approach. Unlike a traditional Russian or Dutch oven, used brick is not suitable for it. The efficiency and productivity of the Swede directly depends on the quality of the material. It is better to take fireclay or red brick.

Important! It is unacceptable to use silicate or hollow bricks to build a furnace.

You should also pay attention to the choice of solution. To build a firebox, you need to mix a solution from a special fireclay clay which can withstand high temperatures. The clay should be smooth and of medium fat content.

To check whether the kneading is done correctly, take a thin layer of clay and apply it to a vertical surface. It should not drain and the consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Under no circumstances should there be any lumps or unmixed solution in the mixture.

Ordinary clay is suitable for lining a heating structure. If you make a fuel ignition chamber out of it, it will crack and the integrity of the stove may be at risk.

Separately, it should be said about the foundation for a Swedish stove. Given its heavy weight, the base must be made strong. It takes at least three weeks for the concrete monolith to harden. If you hurry and start laying on a fresh, not completely hardened foundation, then the heavy weight may cause the stove to become deformed.

One of the weak points of the Swede is the fire door. If you take a budget door from a stamped sheet, it will quickly become loose and fail. Therefore, it is necessary to take a cast door with a mustache, which will need to be securely walled up during laying.

You can vary the size of the stove and oven within 5-10 cm, but the thickness of the oven has great importance. If you cook your own oven, use steel, which does not conduct heat well. If you take a thin roofing iron, then such an oven will cool down quickly.

How to make a Swedish oven with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Before you begin construction work, stock up on the following material.

Please also keep in mind that all construction work must be carried out in warm time of the year. After all, for the foundation to harden, the temperature must be at least 5 0 C.

Material for building a Swedish stove:

Clay for laying bricks. You should not save on it, since the durability and reliability of the stove will depend on the quality of the solution.
Fireclay brick GOST 530–2012. This is a special refractory brick that is used for laying stoves. Do not use ordinary brick, which cannot withstand prolonged exposure to high temperatures. After just a few months of use, it may crumble or crack due to the high temperature of the oven.
Metal door for the combustion chamber, damper and valve. This is an integral attribute of the stove. It is better to take cast iron products, which ensure the durability and reliability of the stove.
Boards for creating formwork (size depends on the size of the foundation).
Asbestos cord and sheet. These materials will be needed to create a fireproof layer between the stove and the walls of the house.
Blower door (14*14 cm).
Grate – 1 pc.
Valve for chimney ducts (3 pcs).
Oven 45*36*30 cm and hob 41*71 cm.
Metal corner.
Cast iron grate.
Decorative plaster or red brick for lining the stove. Ordinary clay or artificial stone can also be used as a finishing coating.

What tools might you need?

bayonet and shovel;
construction mixer (for mixing mortar);
container for mixing the solution;
metal sieve;
Master OK;
rubber hammer;
construction stapler;
building level;
marker and measuring tape;
plumb line

Step 1. Determine the place where the Swede will be located.

This depends on a number of factors: the location of the doors, the area of the room, the features of the roof, etc. It is important not only to think about where the stove will look more impressive, but also to immediately take into account the installation of the chimney system.

Attention. Despite the fact that you will perform a “training” dry layout of the entire oven, it is better to lay out each new row dry in order to avoid mistakes that will be difficult to correct later. Even very experienced craftsmen use this method.

Step 2. Arrangement of the foundation.

Whatever type and design of the Swedish stove you choose, the foundation is one of the most important stages on which the efficiency and durability of the stove depends. The ideal solution would be to lay out the foundation for the stove at the stage of laying the house.

If the decision to build a Swedish oven was made already in finished house, then it is necessary to create a solid foundation, separating it from the main foundation for the house. This is done for security reasons. If over time, the foundation of the house shrinks, then it will therefore not support the stove.

The foundation for a Swedish stove with oven and hob should be deepened into the ground by 70-80 cm. We take the most difficult option: construction of a stove in an already finished house with a wooden floor.

On the wooden floor we make markings with a construction marker for the location of the stove. Having clearly measured the dimensions of the stove, add 10-15 cm on each side and mark with a line. Thus, the foundation will be wider than the base of the stove by these 10-15 cm.
Using a grinder or saw, cut a hole in the wooden floor according to the markings.
Now we mark the soil, which is located under the main floor screed.
Using a bayonet shovel, dig a pit of the required size.
We compact the bottom of the pit well and fill it with sand. Water with one bucket of water and compact the sand well again. Be aware that the thickness of such a sand cushion should be at least 10-15 cm for a pit with a depth of 70-80 cm. If you are digging a pit of greater depth, then the height of the sand cushion should be increased.
Pour the next layer of crushed stone (10 cm) and also compact it well using a bayonet shovel.
String wooden formwork for the foundation. To do this, you can take used boards. The quality of the foundation will not suffer from this. We lay polyethylene along the perimeter of the formwork and nail it to wooden boards using a construction stapler. Waterproofing can also be done using roofing felt.
Raise the formwork to floor level. If you do not plan to make a brick base for the stove, then the formwork can be raised to the level of one brick above the floor.
Now you need to prepare the mixture for pouring the foundation base. A mixture of coarse crushed stone, cement and sand would be ideal. This portion should be enough for you to fill the bottom of the pit, to a thickness of 10-15 cm.
Fill the base of the pit with the resulting mixture to a depth of 15 cm.
To strengthen the base, you need to take metal reinforcement and insert it into fresh mortar.
We prepare the basic solution for filling the entire pit. For this we already use medium-fraction crushed stone, cement and sand. Mix the solution well using a construction mixer.
Fill the pit with the solution to the height of the soil. Level it well with a shovel and let it settle. A few hours later, after the cement mortar has set, we lay the reinforcing mesh on top. We give it an hour for minor shrinkage to occur.
Now, on top of the mesh, fill the entire foundation with the remaining mortar up to the top of the formwork. Level it well with a shovel. Use a building level to check how evenly you have poured and leveled the foundation. After this, it is necessary to allow the foundation to harden and settle. This process is quite lengthy and will take at least a month. There is no need to rush in these matters, since the success of the entire enterprise depends on the strength of the foundation.
After 28-30 days, when the solution has completely hardened, remove the upper part of the formwork (the one above the floor).

Step 3. Create a waterproofing layer.

Step 4. Lay out the oven.

Important! Check each layer of masonry. To check the verticality of the masonry, use a plumb line. For horizontality - building level.

Before you start laying the Swedish stove, you need to replace the clay mortar for installing the stone stove. Follow the video instructions to properly prepare the clay-sand mixture.

Video. How to properly prepare a clay-sand mixture for laying a stove

The 5th row begins to form the combustion chamber. Carry out laying from right to left. It is laid out with refractory bricks. We install the grate and make a seam gap of 3-5 mm. This gap must be left taking into account the expansion of the metal at high temperatures. The gap can be filled with sand or ash. Here the ash door is closed, which finally forms the ash chamber. We lay out all the elements with red brick, and the ash pit itself with fireclay.

Installing the oven.
The 6th row begins to form the chimney. Here we lay the base of the firebox.
The 7th, 8th, and 9th rows form a combustion chamber lined with fireclay bricks. Here we begin to build the firebox door, maintaining a gap of 3-5 mm, which we lay with asbestos cord. Between the firebox and the oven we build a wall of fireclay bricks, the rest of the masonry continues in red.
We make mustaches on the cast furnace door. To do this, we take annealed steel wire 3-4 mm thick and weld it at the corners of the door directly to the frame in the shape of the letter U. Seal them securely clay mortar into bricklaying. After this, for reliability and increased service life, we reinforce the top with a metal corner.
On the 8th row we close the vertical channel.
On the 9th row, it is necessary to cut the bricks at an angle in the lower and upper parts. We do this so that all the smoke from the firebox goes smoothly into the chimney.

Attention! Between the firebox and the oven we place fireclay bricks on edge!

12th row - we form smoke channels.
From the 13th-16th row we lay smoke channels out of brick.
17,18th row. We place the brick on the metal corners to cover the cooking surface. We first make holes in the corners (sometimes they already come with corners), through which we thread a metal wire.
We twist the wire into a bundle and lay it between the masonry.
In the 19th and 20th rows we install cleaning doors. Here we begin to form drying chambers. According to the scheme, we have two of them: large and small. We also continue to form a steam exhaust channel.
Rows 21-28 we continue to build up the drying chamber, covering the small one with a small shelf made of sheet metal.
On the 27th row we install a valve, taking into account a gap of 5 mm, between which we lay an asbestos cord.
On the 29th row, the masonry is expanded by ¼ brick to create a cornice. Here we block all the channels, leaving only the pipe.

Here, on this row, we need to close off the drying chambers. To do this, we install a metal corner, as shown in the figure.

We cover this entire structure with a metal sheet. Please note that you need to cut a notch in the sheet with a metal knife for the third channel.

Step 5. Laying the pipe.

Step 6. Drying the oven.

You cannot start using the stove immediately after laying it. It is recommended to wait 10-14 days. In this case, the first 2 weeks should be natural drying. If weather do not allow the solution to dry naturally, then this process will have to be ensured with the help of a fan.

While drying the oven, line the cleaning doors with crumpled paper or newspapers. It will serve as a kind of drying indicator. As soon as you see that the paper no longer becomes damp, it means the drying has been successful.

Over the next 2 weeks, you can begin to gradually put the oven into operation.

To do this, add small portions of fuel (2-3 kg of firewood) as often as possible. As soon as the previous batch burns out, add a new batch. Thus, you must ensure continuous combustion of the stove.

Aspen firewood is ideal for these purposes. They help to effectively dry the oven before the main commissioning. But it is better not to use birch or any pine firewood for these purposes. They will give maximum heat and will create a lot of soot due to the high resin content.

Following our detailed instructions, you will definitely be able to arrange the oven correctly. A useful video will help you clearly understand the masonry scheme.

Video. DIY installation instructions for a Swedish stove.

Read in the article

Installation nuances

Foundation. Must be located below floor level. These are two rows of bricks with slightly widened seams (but not more than 13mm). Hydro- and thermal insulation. Basalt cardboard (3 layers) works well.

Fire safety. The distance from the smoke duct to walls made of flammable materials is at least 37 cm. And this wall should not contain:

communications;
electrical wiring;
gas pipeline;
water supply

To avoid making such an indentation, you can make a brick wall. The laying of Swedish stoves should end 35 cm before reaching the ceiling. The side on which the combustion doors are located must be at least 120 cm from the nearest wall.

Swedish stove with wall installation

Firebox. Its walls must be made of fireclay bricks.

Floors. It is better to leave a small gap between the pipe and the ceilings. So that there is no pressure on the stove laying if the house suddenly shrinks. The resulting gap is closed with insulation.

Many summer residents do not dare to decorate their country house with a stove, citing the fact that no one lives there in winter. However, during the off-season, problems often arise with heating the house. A brick stove for a dacha with your own hands is a very real option to save money and get complete comfort.

For information on how to assemble a long-burning stove with your own hands, see here. Drawings and technical nuances during construction.

The compact Buleryan stove is quite suitable for heating a country house. In this article http://microklimat.pro/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/pechi/buleryan-svoimi-rukami.html you will find step-by-step assembly instructions, and also learn about the types of its execution.

Furnace construction procedure

The layout of the stove in question is carried out in accordance with the order. This, as already noted, is a special diagram that indicates the order of laying out each row of the structure. There are standard procedures. If you do not have the skills to lay out ovens, it is strongly recommended to use one of the standard schemes.

A well-designed order will allow you to significantly reduce the time and money spent on stove construction. The work will be carried out in a precise and easy to understand manner to ensure maximum efficiency.

Having figured out the order of the Swedish stove before the start of construction, you will be able to lay out the unit yourself, without involving third-party craftsmen in the work and without spending money on paying for their labor.

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
The first row of bricks must be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Where to install the stove

A Swedish stove with a stove will fit well between two adjacent rooms, for example, as a separation between the kitchen and the living room. The part where the stove and oven will be located goes into the kitchen, and the back part, where you can equip a seating area and even a fireplace, goes into the living room. Thus, you will get a Swedish stove with a stove bench.

In principle, the Swedish stove can be installed anywhere in the room where heating, cooking, and also the addition of a decorative element are required. In cases where the cooking function is not required, you can consider the stove option as a decorative element and build a structure, for example, together with a fireplace and decorate it with finishing material, for example, natural stone.

Thus, this design is quite practical option, because when using a stove for cooking, the generated heat will not be wasted, but will be spent on heating the room.

Semicircular Dutch oven

Swedish stove made of concrete in a country house

Swede cap

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but this is just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the hood in the furnace is twofold.

Firstly, under the arch of the hood, gaseous fuel particles are retained and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. To perform this function properly, the roof arch must be arched, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the firebox into the bell is made in the form of a tapering nozzle - a heil. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail can also be inclined. This gives rise to the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water cannot pass into the hatch of a diving bell-caisson. If you don’t close the standard view after heating (which 100% saves you from burning out), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hill is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if cold were drawn from the crack under the door. The tilted caisson floods with water, causing it to capsize and sink - submariners have many scary stories about this - and the furnace with the inclined mouth of the hail quickly cools down when the view is open.

Now let's get back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it is clear that the hood, as such, is simply nowhere to be installed - there is a stove with a drying niche. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured in a different way, and the combustion part is connected to the smoke circulation by a conventional vent with a vertical cut. It may be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type oven with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Perhaps such a hypothetical stove will turn out better than the Swedish one, but it will no longer be Swedish.

"Two-bell Swede"

For an example, see fig. “Hilo” is highlighted with a red gradient. Two seemingly caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are simply expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-cap Swede” retains heat with the view open, then the cannon can fire from around the corner. Because a gun shell in flight describes a curved trajectory, artillerymen know.

Swedish heating and cooking stove project

Before starting work, here are some tips from a stove maker on laying Swedish stoves with your own hands:

Before starting work, print out the order on a printer and, in order not to get confused, when laying out the next row, circle or cross it out on the plan.
When laying the foundation, it is very important to check its level for horizontalness. However, you need to periodically check all further rows with the level.
Each brick is dipped in water for 15 seconds before being laid. But you can’t soak the bricks!
Starting a new row, lay all its bricks in place without mortar, check the dimensions, adjust, and only then lay out the row.
The grinder cuts the bricks of the desired shape very smoothly, but this creates a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare all the halves and quarters in advance in the open air.

Arrangement diagram for a Swedish heating and cooking stove with an oven

Let's consider the order of a brick Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands.

1 row. Solid (28 red bricks).
2nd row. Duplicate (if in the previous row all the bricks were whole, then here there are many halves and ¾).
3rd row. They are marked with bricks: on the left is the ash chamber, on the right is the space under the oven (a quarter is placed here fire bricks) and vertical channels in the background. Doors are installed: ash pan (25 x 14 cm), three for cleaning (14 x 14). Several bricks are installed on an edge. Red brick - 19 pcs.
4 row. Vertical channels are still combined. The ash chamber is being expanded. Half a refractory brick is placed in the space under the oven. 14.5 red bricks in a row.
5 row. The doors of all channels and chambers are closed. The ash chamber is lined with refractory bricks (this will be the bottom of the firebox). An opening is left for the grate (a corner is cut around the perimeter of the hole, into which the grate is placed). 16 red + 8 fireclay bricks.
6th row. The firebox door is installed and the vertical channels are separated. Between the firebox and the oven there is a wall of a quarter of a refractory brick. The oven is being installed. 13 red + 3.5 fireproof.
7th row. Duplicate.
8 row. The fireproof seal covers the entrance to the channel behind the oven. 13 red + 5 fireproof.
9 row. Two bricks are laid above the firebox door, one of which is cut obliquely from below, and the other from above. 13.5 red + 5 fireproof.
10 row. The oven door is closed in a similar manner to the previous row. The wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. A corner is selected in the bricks to install the slab. A corner (1 m 20 cm long) is installed on the front part of the stove. 15 red, 4.5 fireproof.
11 row. A cooking chamber is formed. 16.5 red.
12 - 15 row. Duplicate.
16th row. Preparing to cover the cooking chamber. A 70 cm is placed in the front part. corner, and above the camera there are three corners of 90.5 cm each. 14.5 red.
17th row. The cooking chamber is tightly closed, leaving only an exhaust hole the size of half a brick. 25.5 red.
18th row. Duplicate. Another corner is being installed. 25 red.
Row 19 Expandable: exhaust duct, drying chambers, vertical channels. 16 red.
20, 21 row. Duplicate.
22 row. The smaller drying chamber is covered with a steel plate 19 x 34 cm. 16 red.
23 row. A place for the valve is cut out above the ventilation hole. valve 13 x 13 cm. 17 red.
24 row. Two vertical channels behind the oven are combined. 15.5 red.
25 row. The steam exhaust channel is combined with a vertical channel behind it. 15.5 red.
26 row. All cameras and channels are being expanded. 90.5 cm is installed in the front part. corner. Two strips of 65 cm each are laid above the drying chamber. An angle is cut out in a large steel sheet (80 x 90.5) to the size of the corner vertical channel. A sheet is laid, covering the entire surface of the oven, including the two channels behind the oven. A distance of half a brick is left uncovered on all sides.
27 row. Solid, covering the entire area except the vertical channel. On all sides, the brick now “overhangs” the previous rows by 2.5 cm. 32 red.
28 row. Another continuous row, the bricks “overhang” even more on all sides (by another 2.5 cm). 37 red.
29 row. Continuous row, original oven size. 26.5 red. The furnace body is complete.
Row 30 The base of the pipe is formed. A corner is cut out of the bricks to the size of the smoke valve. The valve is installed. 5 red.
Row 31 and beyond. Pipe extension.

Used oil is an excellent type of fuel; besides, waste oil can save a lot of money when heating a room. Do-it-yourself waste oil oven. manufacturing of stoves, operating rules, as well as the pros and cons of use.

About use induction furnace to heat the room, read this article.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the dimensions standard bricks- when laying the unit, you won’t have to look for a half or three-quarter piece once again, which significantly reduces construction time. It is recommended to use the principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace to the dimensions of the red brick when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

500–700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
combustion and blower doors - 1 pc. each;
cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
oven;
grate;
cast iron two-burner stove;
metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
exhaust valve;
sheet steel;
cement;
sand;
construction mesh for reinforcement;
tamping;
boards for formwork;
rule at least 1 m long;
fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

construction hammer-pick;
trowel;
wooden or rubber mallet;
jointing;
construction level;
square;
cord and plumb line;
roulette;
shovel;
containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

Classic Swedish oven as opposed to the Dutch oven tiles or not covered with tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

It would be most correct to line the entire firebox with fireclay bricks, starting with the 3rd row and ending with the one laid on top of the slab. But in this case, the stove will turn out to be too expensive - due to the high cost of this material. Therefore, fireclay is usually used only for lining the walls of the firebox from the inside.

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) grade M200

It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - ordinary clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

High thermal loads place special demands on the combustion door. An inexpensive model made of sheet steel using the stamping method will quickly become loose. It is better to install a cast iron door with fasteners that are clamped between the bricks.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
Asbestos cord.
Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
Plate cooking unit dimensions 710x410 mm.
Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Swede heating and cooking stoves

Heating and cooking stoves of this type have a fairly simple, and at the same time, well-thought-out design. Such stoves are usually designed for two rooms at the same time. In this case, the front part with the combustion and hob surface faces the kitchen or dining room, and the back side is intended for heating next room. This could be a bedroom, a living room, and so on. The Swedish stove works according to a simple principle, which becomes clear after examining its structure. A standard Swedish stove consists primarily of a combustion chamber. On the side above the combustion chamber there is a hob, made primarily of cast iron. The stove has special burners with an adjustable diameter for installing containers used for heating water or cooking. After passing under the hob, incompletely burned gases enter a special chimney system. The chimney in a Swedish stove is designed in such a way that hot air lingers in it for as long as possible before escaping into the atmosphere. Due to this, effective heating of all the walls of the furnace is achieved, which then gradually releases the accumulated heat into the room.

Design Features

The classic Swedish stove, shown in the cross-sectional diagram, consists of the following elements:

a firebox and an ash chamber located underneath it;
cast iron hob;
oven installed on the same level with the grate;
above the stove there is a niche for drying things; if desired, it can be divided into several small compartments - stoves;
a system of vertical channels (smoke circulation) occupies the entire rear part of the heater.

There are 2 indispensable attributes by which the Swede can be unmistakably distinguished from other designs found on the Internet and technical literature. Firstly, this stove does not exist without an oven, and secondly, it always has a network of 3 smoke circuits in the rear.

Reference. Thanks to its successful design, the Swedish stove became the basis for the development of more complex and efficient heat sources. An example is a two-bell heater without an oven by A. Batsulin or a stove with a fireplace in the back by A. Ryazankin, shown in the photo.

A traditional Swedish stove works like this: when wood is burned in the firebox infrared heat from the flame is transferred to the hob, and from it to the air in the room. The other part of the heat, together with the combustion products, passes through the vertical partition, washes the oven body, and then rushes through the passage in the lower part into the channel system. There, the flue gases make 3 revolutions, heating the solid brickwork of the rear wall, and are thrown out through the chimney.

The front niche, located at the top, receives heat from 2 sides - below from the stove and behind from the smoke circulation. Thanks to this distribution and the developed system of heat removal from flue gases, the efficiency of the heating unit reaches 60%. See the video for the design and construction procedure of the classic Swede:

masonry of the stove Swedish Buslaeva masonry order

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can really find checked working diagram You can either from familiar stove makers, or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was folded by me quite recently and showed itself only with positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good draft, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of 40 meters up to 2 days after firing. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

osnovaremonta.ru

Many stove makers old school I think I was always taught the Swedish way of laying bricks on the edge (as if it would be beautiful and warm up quickly - customers like it), time has shown the opposite - laying a stove in the brick floor is much easier to do, more durable and safer to use. For this reason, I posted the drawings of just such a thick-walled “Swedish” and not the old versions of quick heating in 1/4 bricks.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 various schemes Swedish stoves, of which I personally added up 7. Of these seven, the best for me is “Swedish” developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you simple brick kitchen stove-stove with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

osnovaremonta.ru

The furnace is laid mainly with bricks on edge; all the bricks are first soaked in water to achieve a minimum thickness of the seams. Uneven bricks must be pressed together. The size of Shvedka Buslaev is 1160x900 mm, height without pipe is 2100 mm, heat output is 5 kW. The oven is also equipped with a cast iron stove 560x965 mm, a samovar and an oven 600x400x350 mm. A separate foundation is required for the furnace. It has been accurately verified despite the complex five-channel smoke circulation due to careful calculation of the furnace layout, as when firing with gas, condensation does not form at the outlet of the pipe. The mode of self-cleaning and simple repair of the stove has also been thought out.

osnovaremonta.ru

Swedish stove laying requires: about 300 kg of clay-sand mortar and 550 bricks of standard size 250x120x65 A solid foundation is required for the swedish, the brick must be soaked. The furnace is laid in the brick floor (120 mm) up to the 11th row inclusive, then brick on edge (65 mm)

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

1. - fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
2. - blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
3. -cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
4. - red brick - 550 pcs;
5. - oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
6. - grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
7. - valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
8. - cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
9. - hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
10. - fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
11. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
12. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
13. - steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
14. - drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
15. - drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
16. - pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

Just in case, I’ll write that the glory of the Swedes is somewhat exaggerated; they are inferior to modern bell-type furnaces in efficiency and heat capacity, besides Tavo there are designs that are similar but more improved, for example Moskvichka stove You can also look for a selection in the section ready-made diagrams of 20 furnaces .

Swede stove turnkey price in Moscow and the Moscow region

turnkey Swedish oven price

Be sure to read my articles:

Popular barbecue with cauldron
Overview of BBQ areas
Construction of the BBQ area

Dear friends. Separately, I would like to dwell on the service and turnkey Swedish oven price. Often the customer asks if we carry out turnkey masonry work. The term “turnkey” itself means that you pay money and get results. This should include work on the foundation, the purchase of materials and the construction work itself.
But this is only the first moment. The cost of materials will definitely be inflated - I often communicate with construction crews and foremen at construction sites where we work

laying barbecue complexes,

and we know that many foremen and builders have unspoken agreements with sellers of building materials. When a builder comes to the store, he will be given the material with any receipt. This means that the builder will be in the clear before you, since he has accounted for your receipts. But in fact, he put the difference between the store price and the price that the store indicated on the receipt in his pocket.
Let's move on: constructing a foundation for the furnace. These works are quite simple, and personally I (like any other stove maker) would prefer to do

In a whole day I will earn an order of magnitude more by building a furnace than by pouring a foundation. That is why all the stove makers who will offer you turnkey Swedish oven price- will definitely increase the cost of foundation installation services.
I don’t recommend Turnkey Construction to you. How will work with me work: after agreeing on the task, I draw up a list of materials, and you independently purchase bricks, clay, and fittings. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, I describe everything in detail, moreover, I’m always in touch and will answer you if you’re on construction market. Brick from a certain factory is difficult to counterfeit - there are many Lode brick dealers in Moscow and the Moscow region. This way you will be absolutely sure that you will not overpay for materials - you can go to absolutely any construction company that is closer to your site.
Purchase materials yourself. This will save you 10-15% of the amount quoted by the turnkey stove maker
Any local handyman will be able to pour the foundation. Of course I make up technical task for these workers - and under your control they do this work. It will definitely cost less than a stove maker. But it’s simply inconvenient for me to do such work: I need to pour the foundation, then leave to let it settle, then come again to lay out the stove.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. Dwellings ordinary people Most often they were heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant fire. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swedish” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
Swedish with stove and oven;
a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
double-sided fireplace stove - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part goes into the hall or living room;
Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

compact dimensions;
functional and practical design;
high efficiency and heat transfer;
fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
versatility;
undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
ease of operation and maintenance;
efficiency;
possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

Moskvichka stove

There is another type of similar stove with an oven. This is some answer to all foreign similar stoves, which was created by a domestic inventor Victor Pilyush. The stove with the Russian name “Moskvichka” is a universal device with which you can not only heat a room, but also use it as a stove for cooking. V. Pilyush invented 4 types of such stoves. Their production can be carried out in 20 sizes.

The inventor managed to form the structure in such a way that the entire structure works to accumulate heat. This happens due to the heating channel, which is located below.

In the Moskvichka stove, it is possible to install a firebox in two versions:

The firebox runs on space heating .
The firebox is working not only for heating, but also for cooking.

It is worth noting that in the oven of this oven you can adjust the temperature.

Furnace structure

If Russian and Dutch stoves are considered to be a product of folk ingenuity, then the “Swedish” stove has a well-defined team of authors. It was headed by academicians of the Swedish Academy of Sciences K. Konstedt and F. Wörd. The then leadership of the country set a task for the developers: to create a stove that would be better adapted to the cold and humid local climate and fuel shortages than the most common “Dutch stove” in Europe at that time. In addition, the new unit had to be compact in size (the lack of land does not allow the Swedes to build too spacious houses) and be as simple and inexpensive as possible.

What we got in the end consists of two parts: one is a chamber oven, in which the chamber, blown by hot flue gases, is also an oven; the second is a duct convector from a Dutch oven stretched to the sides and placed behind the first part. It seems like nothing complicated, but it took a long time and painstakingly to select and calculate the parameters at which the efficiency of the unit, heating rate and heat transfer would be maximum.

Swedish oven diagram

Let's look at the technical features:

The purpose of the chamber part, in addition to cooking, is to absorb the very first heat generated during the combustion of light fractions of coal and firewood. This is the first difference from the “Dutch”: in it this heat was almost completely thrown out into the chimney, since the brick did not have time to absorb it due to its low thermal conductivity.
The Dutch oven did not have a zone for afterburning such fractions. The “Swedish” was equipped with a kind of hood, in which the gases completely burn out, and for the best absorption of thermal energy, a large metal oven was installed into the brick body of the stove (item 1). Due to the high thermal conductivity of steel, it heats up almost instantly, which made the effect of forced heating possible.
If the cooking niche with the stove installed in it (item 2) is closed with a wooden damper, then the dishes prepared for breakfast and left on the stove will still be warm in the morning. They can be quickly reheated in the oven, which will heat up almost simultaneously with the start of the morning heating.
The oven was also equipped with a spacious drying niche (item 3), in which a couple of sets of very wet clothes can be completely dried overnight.
In order to simplify and reduce the cost of the design of the hilo, which is a rather complex element, Swedish engineers did not use it. A transfer window was simply installed under the oven. This is precisely the reason for the inability of the “Swede” to retain heat for a long time after heating with the view open.
The role of a heat accumulator is played by a vertically elongated channel convector installed behind the chamber furnace. It is designed according to the Dutch principle: inside there is a labyrinth of channels through which flue gases pass before entering the chimney. Here the heat generated during combustion and smoldering of the main mass of fuel is absorbed.

Initially, the channels were made vertical. At the same time, the heating of the lower part of the furnace deteriorated, but the fuel burned to a more complete extent. In the modification with a horizontal arrangement of channels, the bottom is heated much better, but the stove quickly becomes overgrown with soot (a sign of incomplete combustion of fuel). In general, manipulations with the channel part, which does not have any clever thermal devices, do not affect the characteristics of the stove in any way. You can safely vary its size and position relative to the chamber part, so that it becomes possible to heat 3 rooms.

Swedish oven placement option

“Swedish” can simultaneously take on the function of preparing hot water for domestic needs. A heat exchanger in the form of a curved pipe should be installed in the oven - here it will not affect the performance of the oven in any way. The storage tank is placed either in a drying niche or on the roof.

The vaults in the Swedish kiln are made not in the form of arches, but with the help of ceilings made of rolled steel - corners and strips. Typically, stove makers try to avoid introducing metal elements into the masonry - due to the significant difference in the values of the coefficients of thermal expansion of brick and metal.

the arched vault significantly increases the height of the stove, which was unacceptable for low Swedish ceilings;
it leads to a noticeable increase in the cost of the design, since it is a rather complex unit.

As time has shown, the coexistence of brick and steel in a Swedish kiln is quite possible, unless there is direct contact between them: both materials should always be separated by a 6 mm wide seam filled with mortar.

Operating principle and design of the Swedish oven

The compact dimensions of the stove (1020x885x2030mm) allow it to be placed in a small country house or dacha. But despite its small size, these dimensions of a Swedish stove are enough to effectively heat a room of 30-35 square meters.

Swedish stove

Whatever the design of the stove - with a sunbed, with an oven or just a stove - the principle of its operation will be the same: channel, like the “Dutch”.

Swedish: scheme

The metal oven is located on the side of the firebox and is designed to directly transfer heat into the room. But cooking and baking is not the main function of the oven.

After lighting the wood, it warms up in literally 5 minutes. The figure shows why the oven heats up so quickly.

Swedish design

Before going down, combustion products heat the oven in the top and sides. On the other hand, the stove is heated by the firebox. The stove warms up from the firebox, heating the room itself.

How the Swedish oven works

Swedish woman in a modern interior

At the same time, it performs a double function: it serves for cooking and is the main decorative decoration of the living room. On one side it can be equipped with an oven, and on the other with an open fireplace, decorated with an openwork forged damper.

Swede with fireplace

The fact is that each type has its own smoke path. This makes it possible to cook food in summer without heating the room.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

You can bake a Swedish stove with your own hands without specialized qualifications, you just need to be careful

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The oven in a Swedish oven is made of cast iron

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. Optimal thickness oven walls – 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Furnace order

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

First of all soak the brick. To do this, the bricks need to be dipped in clean water and left there for about a day. Water will fill the pores in the brick structure. Thanks to this, in the future construction material will not absorb water from the clay solution.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, it takes about 20 liters of mortar to lay hundreds of bricks

1 row. It was previously noted that this row should be laid out exclusively at the building level with additional checking using a square. Lay out this row in continuous masonry. Inside, it is allowed to use halves of bricks.

2nd row. Lay out in the same pattern as the 1st row. Be careful and do everything in strict accordance with technology, because... the first two rows serve as the base of the furnace, which should be as reliable as possible.

3-4 rows. Continue laying, gradually forming an ash chamber. At the same stage of masonry, the door of the mentioned chamber is installed. Additionally, 3 doors for cleaning hatches and a door for the blower are installed. Place smoke vents on the reverse side of the swede. They are located in vertical position and communicate with the combustion chamber through a hole arranged during the laying out of the furnace.

5 row. Install the finished oven and place a grate of suitable size in it. Form a cover for the cleaning hatches and the blower door.

6-10 row. Lay out the walls of the firebox and oven chamber. A partition made of fire-resistant brick is laid between the combustion compartment and the oven. The brick must be laid on edge. The partition should be a row lower than the chamber itself. After the tenth row is ready, lay a standard steel corner and an additional cast iron slab on the front of the structure. To secure the corner, use steel wire and a 2-centimeter layer of clay mortar.

11 row. Completely complete the closure of the channel through which the cast iron plate and the right wall of the furnace are separated.

12-16 row. Lay out the cooking compartment and 3 vertical flues. Lay out chimney openings from fire-resistant bricks.

17-18 row. Form an overlap over the cooking compartment. To form the ceiling, use the sheet steel laid in the previous stages and a corner made of the same material.

Row 19-20. Attach 2 hatches to the front of the door structure for cleaning the gas exhaust channels.

Rows 21-28. Lay out the chimney ducts. Don't forget to re-tie your stitches. In the process of laying out the 27th row, install a convenient latch. Above the installed smoke damper, leave a technological hole through which the gas ducts will interface with the air ducts.

Row 29-30. Lay out the overlap of the chimney ducts. At this stage, the width of the masonry around the perimeter must be increased by 50 mm. Thanks to this expansion, a cornice will be formed.

31 row. Adjust the dimensions of the overlap to the structural dimensions of the 27th row.

32 row. Start laying out the chimney. The standard chimney design has dimensions of 130x250 mm.

At this point, the laying out of the oven can be considered complete. At the end, all that remains is to complete the installation of the chimney, and also, if desired, to decorate the stove, for example, with paint or ceramic tiles. Additionally, you can buy a variety of accessories, for example, for storing fuel.

Shvedka stove (front view)

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove (rear view)

Thus, there is nothing complicated about laying a Swedish stove yourself. A detailed order will help you quickly understand the specifics of the work and lay out the stove with your own hands. Follow the instructions, remember to check the evenness of the rows, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Swedish oven, ordering

What is remarkable about the Swedish stove

Swedish oven options

According to its purpose, the “Swedish” refers to heating and cooking stoves, and there is every reason to consider it the most successful among them. It is more convenient to cook on it than in a Russian oven, since the housewife does not have to bend over and use a grip. In addition to the hob, there is an oven in which you can prepare baked goods and quickly reheat dishes. And to top it all off, the classic “Swedish” has a niche designed for drying things.

The original model of the Swedish stove

The design of the stove allows its back side, which opens into the living room (the front part with the stove is located in the kitchen), to be equipped with a warm bench or fireplace.

In addition to functional ones, the “Swedish” also has technical advantages:

Fast warm-up.
Simple device and low cost. In this regard, the Swedish stove is comparable to the Dutch one, but has higher efficiency (60% versus 40%) and heat transfer (“Dutch” with a power of 2.9 kW and “Swedish” with a power of 4.1 kW have equal material consumption).
The presence of an oven, which, with the door open, within a few minutes after the start of the fire (even waste fuel can be used), provides forced infrared heating of the wet or frozen user.
Downward smoke circulation after the firebox, providing high-quality heating of the stove not only from above, but also from below.
The temperature of the flue gases in the channel part is low, due to which it can be built from ordinary bricks using cement-sand mortar.
Plastic. Strict canons have to be followed only when constructing the smaller, high-temperature part of the furnace. The rest can be adjusted to almost any home without loss of quality.
The ability to extract heat for preparing hot water without deteriorating the combustion mode in the furnace.
Possibility to “connect” the bed.

The listed advantages can be countered by the following disadvantages:

Due to the significant heat load, the high-temperature part of the furnace has to be built only from the highest quality materials. High demands are also placed on the quality of work (the craftsman must have sufficient experience).
If you forget to close the view after the fuel has completely burned out, the stove will cool down very quickly.
A foundation is required. This is due to the uneven load on individual parts of the furnace and its elongated shape.

Without a reliable foundation, the unit will be unstable.

How does a Swedish stove differ from other stoves?

Now the Swede is very often used in Russia and is considered a classic, although its current design was established not so long ago, somewhere at the end of the nineteenth century. In the homeland of this heating device, winters are no less severe, there is not too much space in living quarters, and zealous residents are accustomed to saving firewood.

The stove is part of the wall

The Swedish stove is designed for a small house with a simple layout (ideally a two-room house). Typically, the power of the heat generator is enough for buildings with an area of 30-50 square meters, provided that two fires are produced per day. The device, as a rule, is erected between the kitchen and the main room, that is, the stove plays the role of a partition. The firebox and ash door, valves, stove and niches are located in the kitchen (this is where the stove is controlled), and the rear plane with the smoke channels faces the room. They try to collect the Swede closer to the center of the house, only occasionally placing it near outer wall or in the corner.

The shape of the Swedish stove resembles a vertically oriented block cabinet, which has a height of 2 meters, often it rises almost to the ceiling. The model is notable for its modest dimensions on the floor; its length rarely exceeds the threshold of 1300 mm, and its width is 900 mm. That is, we lose only 1 m2 in free space (instead of 3-4, as is the case with a Russian stove). Great potential is hidden in small dimensions; performance seems to be concentrated here. For example, if you make a Dutch brick from the same amount of brick, its thermal performance will be about a third lower. The efficiency of Swedish stoves is almost the same as that of a Russian stove, but they are less material-intensive and much easier to install.

With some preparation, Swedes can successfully install ovens with their own hands, even by non-professionals. Developers have plenty to choose from. Well-known domestic stove designers have developed many modifications that differ from each other both in size/power and layout.

Combined device developed on the basis of the Swedish

Important! Outstanding efficiency has back side medals – increased thermal loads and, as a result, special requirements for the quality of materials. For example, it is very desirable to use marl for the solution; the most reliable metal components should be used (cast doors, thick-walled oven boxes and lintels, etc.)

It is imperative to lay out the protected inner walls of the firebox from fireclay bricks - this fire-resistant core is not only not tied to the main masonry, but is also located indented from the ordinary red brick.

Types of Swedes

There are several popular types of Swedish oven.

The stove in the form of a fireplace is designed in such a way that the hob opens into the kitchen, and the decorative part with the firebox and fireplace portal opens into the living room.
Swedish, equipped with a sun lounger. This stove design is quite complex, but in winter it functions as a very cozy and warm bed.
Swedish, equipped with a hob and oven. The back part of such a stove heats the room, and the functional front part is located in the kitchen.

Swede with one plate

If the stove is installed as the main heating device, then it is better to choose a model that can heat several rooms at once.

It should be said that the Swedish stove design is an ideal option for a small country house, in which the owners live not only in the summer.

Of course, it is also suitable for a small cottage. But the Swede gets damp quickly enough, which means it requires constant use. Otherwise, it will have to be dried for a long time each time before putting it into operation, and this significantly reduces its efficiency.

With regular use, such a stove, equipped with a comfortable hob and a functional oven, will become an indispensable household assistant and will give warmth and comfort to the house.

Design and features of the Swedish oven

When developing the “Swedish”, the “Dutch” was taken as a basis; the latter at that time was already quite common and had proven itself well. But since the climate of the Scandinavian Peninsula is harsher than the European one, and there are fewer fuel reserves, the Dutch oven was thoroughly altered and adapted to its conditions, as a result of which the Swedish heating and cooking stove was born.

It partially retained the operating principle of the Dutch stove, but at the same time elements were added that allow you to cook food and dry clothes, and in different types of stove there is also a stove bed. We are talking about different types, since the Swedish stove can be modified and structurally changed, while maintaining the general concept. And the concept provides for a channel principle of operation, like the Dutch one, but with additional devices for heat extraction:

Metal oven.
Hob with niche.
Upper niche.

The photo below shows a diagram of a Swedish oven, on which the listed elements are indicated by the corresponding numbers.

A metal oven is located on the side of the combustion chamber and is designed to take heat from it directly and transfer it to the room. Preparing baked goods is not the main function of the oven; literally 5 minutes after lighting it is already bursting with heat, as soon as you open the door. The diagram shows why this happens. The combustion products, before falling to the floor and leaving, heat the oven body from above and on the sides, and on the other side it is heated by the firebox. This design makes it possible to use any small fuel for heating the house and cooking.

The niche above the stove is heated directly from the combustion chamber, spreading warm air in the kitchen area. The upper niche, originally designed for drying things, is heated from below from the stove and from the rear from the channels where combustion products pass. The latter, having gone around the oven, exit into a system of vertical channels and there transfer their heat to the body of the oven, after which they are thrown out through the chimney.

Due to the special structure smoke channels the Swede will intensively warm up the floors and the soil underneath, which is irrational. For this reason, the heating and cooking stove must be installed on a base with thermal insulation. Sheets of basalt cardboard 5 mm thick are perfect for it; they will need to be laid in three layers with a layer of aluminum foil as a reflective screen.

Placing a Swedish stove in a private house

Since the main heat of the flue gases is transferred to the back wall of the stove, it is customary to install it in the wall between the kitchen and bedroom (or living room). In some varieties of Swedes, a fireplace or a relatively small lounger is installed on the back side. The dimensions of the sun lounger in the Swedish version are 1800 x 660 mm, which is not enough for comfortable rest and sleep.

The Swedish heating and cooking stove with a deck differs from the usual design in the presence of horizontal channels and winter/summer operating modes. This is realized using an additional valve installed in a straight vertical channel. In winter, the valve closes and combustion products move in a large circle, through the horizontal flue ducts of the stove, and then return to the chimney. In summer, the damper is open and there is a direct path into the vertical pipe, through which the flue gases simply flow out. This way, only the hob heats up.

Recommendations for construction and selection of materials

The Swede, unlike the Dutch, cannot be built from waste or used materials, since the stove is carefully designed and calculated for efficient operation. Here it is recommended to use high-quality fireclay and red bricks. At the same time, to lay the combustion chamber, the solution must be mixed from fireclay clay; simple clay from a ravine will not work.

The rest of the masonry mortar also needs to be of high quality, from good clay of medium fat content. It should be stirred thoroughly so that no small lumps remain, until it reaches the consistency of sour cream. You can check the quality of the solution by dropping it from a trowel; a thin layer of material should remain on the surface of the tool.

It will not be a secret to anyone that, due to its weight, a Swedish brick stove requires a good foundation for construction. Such a foundation can be a reinforced concrete slab or a foundation cast from heavy concrete on compacted soil with a compacted backfill. Before starting construction of the stove, the new monolith requires at least 3 weeks to completely harden. Then a waterproofing material (roofing felt can be used) is placed on it, and the thermal insulation described above is placed on top.

The ordering diagram according to which a classic Swedish cooking stove is built is shown below.

Furnace laying diagram

By building this kind of stove, you will heat your house with a power of 5 kW, which is enough for 50 m2. Compared to the Dutch, this figure is 20-25% higher. This will require the following amount of products and materials:

ceramic red brick grade 200 – 540 pcs;
refractory brick – 30 pcs;
ventilation door – 1 piece;
equal angle corner 40 x 40 mm – 5.5 m;
strip steel 50 x 5 mm – 1.4 m;
galvanized steel sheet 0.6 mm thick – 2 m2;
combustion door – 1 pc.

For homeowners interested in a Swede with a sun lounger and two operating modes, a diagram of the order is presented below.

Scheme of laying a stove with a stove bench

Here the work is much more complicated and cannot be trusted to just anyone; at least the experience of a professional mason is required, ideally a stove maker. A video will help you understand in detail the process of laying out a Swede with a bed.