At what stage of construction should windows be installed?
Wooden windows must be installed after all wet finishing work has been completed inside the house - plastering and floor screeding.
House before installation wooden windows It should dry out at least a little. Otherwise, high humidity indoor air (up to 96%) causes wood to swell, moisture condensation on glass further moistens wooden parts windows As a result, deformation and unsticking of parts occurs, damage paint coating wooden window profiles.
Finishing walls with plasterboard, instead of plaster, significantly reduces the release of moisture into the air in the room. Wooden windows can be installed after installing screeds, before finishing the walls with plasterboard.
Plastic PVC windows are not afraid of moisture. They can be installed before finishing work begins on the house.
If the walls are finished with dry plaster - plasterboard, then the windows in any case must be installed before finishing work begins. Drywall can be damaged by atmospheric moisture entering the house through unfilled window openings.
If finishing of premises is carried out in winter
Often work on the construction of walls and roofs of a private house ends in the fall. Interior decoration The owners decide to make houses in winter. In this case install plastic windows and turn on the heating in the house. It is better to finish walls in winter using plasterboard. Cladding with plasterboard does not greatly increase the humidity in the premises and allows you to quickly complete the following finishing stages.
In case of installation of wooden windows finishing work In winter, they must be done using dry plaster.
To quickly reduce humidity, in a house with installed windows it is recommended to increase the intensity natural ventilation, installing electric fans in the ventilation ducts, and keeping the windows slightly open.
The temperature in the premises during finishing work, as well as until the plaster and screed has dried, is necessary constantly maintain above +5 o C.
The amount of construction moisture in the house can be further reduced, and the completion of finishing can be accelerated, if, when installing floors in all or part of the premises, instead of a monolithic concrete screed, a dry prefabricated screed is used.
If the house is being decorated in the summer
If finishing work in the house begins in the spring, then It is better to install plastic windows before starting work.
After installing the windows, first plaster the slopes and corners window openings. Then the walls are leveled with plaster.
In case of using wooden windows their installation must be completed after all wet finishing work has been completed.
During finishing work, to eliminate drafts in the house, window openings are covered with film.
First, the walls are plastered without touching the window slopes. It is better to wait some time to allow the house to dry out from construction moisture. Then wooden windows are installed.
After installing wooden windows, you will have to once again invite finishers to plaster the window slopes or cladding them sheet material, for example, drywall.
When to finish the facade
For single-layer walls(without insulation) can be applied facade plaster both before and after window installation. But it is better to finish the facade after installing the windows. In this case, the joint between the window and the wall will be properly sealed, window slopes will be immediately made, and external window sill drains will be installed.
If you finish the facade before installing the windows, then you will have to return to plastering the slopes again. The plaster applied later will differ from the previously completed one, which will be noticeable.
For double-layer walls Installation of insulation and finishing of the facade is carried out after installing the windows.
In a two-layer wall with facade insulation, windows must be installed before installing the insulation boards. This will allow you to properly finish the window slopes from the outside.
When finishing the facade with plaster on insulation, the insulation boards should be 2-3 cm. overlap the window frame. Insulation boards are placed without joints in the corners of window openings. To do this, the insulation board is cut, giving it an L-shape, and installed with a cutout around the corner of the window.
While finishing (plastering) the façade, it is recommended to cover the windows with plastic film, securing it with adhesive tape. Protect window profile Regular masking tape is not recommended - marks may remain after removing the tape.
The protective film on the frame outside the window is removed immediately after installation. Otherwise, under the influence of the sun, the film will stick so that it cannot be removed.
The protective film on the frame indoors can remain on the window for no more than one month from the date of installation.
Window installation - rules
To place an order for the manufacture of windows, it is very important to correctly determine the dimensions of the window unit. If the dimensions of the block turn out to be too large, then during installation it will not be possible to correctly make the slopes, install the window sill and ebbs. If the size of the window block is too small compared to the dimensions of the opening in the wall, the load on the fastening elements increases, difficulties arise with high-quality sealing of the joint between the wall and the window, which will create problems during the operation of the window.
It can be profitable to order window manufacturing in the winter - manufacturers give discounts on prices during this period. Before installation, windows purchased in advance must be stored in a dry place, away from exposure to sunlight.
In winter, it is not recommended to install plastic windows at outside air temperatures below -5 o C. Although, according to the standards of window manufacturers, their installation is allowed at air temperatures down to -10 o C. At lower temperatures, the plastic becomes brittle, increasing the risk of cracks and chips in window parts .
Polyurethane foam, even “winter”, with negative temperatures may not have good adhesion to the wall. In a new house, the surface of the wall in the opening is often covered with a thin crust of ice invisible to the eye. At low temperatures, foam hardens very slowly. It is better to postpone installation of windows until warm time year.
Attaching the window to the wall
The window block is installed in the window opening on spacer bars and leveled horizontally and vertically.
The window block is attached to the wall in two ways: with steel anchors or frame dowels.
One end of the anchor, a galvanized steel plate, is fixed to the window block, and the other end is screwed to the wall. The anchor is attached to the window as recommended by the window manufacturer.
Using steel anchors, you can attach any type of window to a wall made of any material and different designs(single-layer, multi-layer).
Fastening a window to a wall with a frame dowel is not so universal.
To fasten the window with a frame dowel, a hole is drilled in the window profile. Through this hole in the profile a hole is drilled in the wall. A steel frame dowel is inserted into the resulting channel and the dowel screw is tightened. The end of the dowel in the wall opens and fixes the structure to the wall.
This method of fastening forces you to interfere with the design of the window. Excessive twisting of the dowel leads to deformation of the window profile and limits the movement of the structure when temperature changes. It is necessary to follow the window manufacturer's recommendations for attaching them to the wall using dowels.
The most important thing when installing a window is to ensure a high-quality seal at the joint between the wall and the window. Be sure to supervise the work of the installation team in filling the joint with polyurethane foam.
When exposed to ultraviolet rays from the sun, polyurethane foam breaks down over time. That's why outside connection between window and wall protected from atmospheric influences with special tape or liquid sealant for external use.
The connection between the window and the wall outside the house is sealed with special tape. The seal between the window and the wall protects the joint from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet radiation.
From inside the room The space between the window frame and the wall is sealed with vapor-proof tape. Sealing allows you to prevent the penetration of steam and its condensation at the junction of the wall and window.
Window location in the wall
Position of window and door in thickness outer wall should ensure minimal heat loss through the wall in the slopes around the perimeter of the window (bypassing the window).
Window in a single-layer wall without insulation
In a single-layer wall there is a window or outer door It is recommended to place it along the thickness of the wall, closer to its middle. In this position, heat loss in the slopes at the junction will be minimal.
In the figure: 1 - seam reinforcement (if necessary); 2 - additional ceramic block; 3 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 4 - window; 5 - masonry made of large-format ceramic blocks; 6 - reinforced concrete lintels; 7 - reinforced concrete belt; 8 - frequently ribbed ceiling; 9 - heat and sound insulation slabs; 10 - concrete screed 5 cm; 11 - compensation tape.
Window location in a double-layer wall
In a two-layer wall with facade finishing with siding or plaster over insulation (“ wet facade") the window block is installed flush with the outer surface of the wall masonry.
The insulation layer on the facade of a two-layer wall should cover the joint between the window and the wall, and overlap the window profile by 2-3 cm.
Window location in a three-layer wall
In the figure: 1 - horizontal waterproofing with a turn on the wall; 2 - hole in the vertical seam between the bricks for water drainage and ventilation; 3 - reinforced concrete lintel in the cladding, covered with clinker tiles; 4 - silicone sealant or sealing tape; 5 - window, located in the thickness of the heat-insulating layer; 6 - reinforced concrete lintel in the load-bearing layer of the wall.
In a three-layer wall, with the insulated facade facing with brick, the windows are installed in the insulation layer, closer to the masonry of the load-bearing part of the wall. The gap between the cladding masonry and the window block is filled with elastic tape pos. 4. The seal between the window and the cladding protects the joint from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet radiation.
In the figure: 1 - clinker window sill (shaped brick or tile); 2 - joint sealing; 3 - window box; 4 - groove - drip; 5 - ventilated gap.
Temperature distribution in the window area in a three-layer wall Window in a timber wall
Correct installation of a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 - interventional insulation; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.
Roller shutters for windows
From the outside to the windows of a private house It is recommended to install roller shutters. Closed roller shutters not only protect windows from burglary, but in severe frosts they reduce heat loss through the windows, and in the summer heat they reduce overheating of the house from the sun's rays. It is better to provide for the installation of roller shutters on windows in advance, at the stage of designing a house or placing an order for the manufacture of windows.
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Installing windows yourself will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything correctly, otherwise the savings will be questionable. Wooden houses have their own characteristics that you should be aware of.
Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly
It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:
- lack of casing - a house made of timber “walks” during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;
- usage polyurethane foam in the shrinkage gap between the top of the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper beams to the window frame, negating the functions of the casing;
- incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - without taking into account the installation gap, you will have to expand the window opening;
- there is too much gap between the frame and the wall - if you simply foam such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
- lack of external protection of the installation gap - foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, with outside it is better to close the gap with PSUL tape, which protects the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;
- lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in insulating properties;
- placing a window in a “cold zone” causes freezing of slopes and the formation of condensation with inside
If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order window installation. For an experienced builder, DIY installation should not be a problem.
Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers don't talk about
Tightness and high sound insulation plastic double glazed windows presented as a definite advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential areas is constantly increasing, and thanks to leaky wooden frames ensures a constant influx fresh air. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so Euro-windows have long become a very popular product.
How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to do forced ventilation. But in the absence ventilation holes This can be problematic - you will have to redo a lot.
It is for such cases that window frames were invented. supply valves– special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners wooden houses– companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So, even if all installation rules are followed, you may find that after a few years the windows no longer open. But you won’t be able to sharpen plastic with a file.
Making casing (plugs)
The first thing the installation of windows begins with is the installation of the casing. But is it always necessary and how to do it correctly?
When can you do without a joint?
A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And no one has canceled seasonal soil heaving. In this case, the casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.
It is important to use only dry and durable material– edged board 50 mm thick and edged beam 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.
But in a frame house you don’t have to make a frame - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. Some builders also do not install a casing in a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind, it is better to do it in your home; this process is not that complicated.
How to make casing correctly
The last option is the most labor-intensive, but also the most reliable. If you have any doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing it into an embedded block. To do this:
- In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical furrows measuring 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done either with a chainsaw or with a hand circular saw, chisel and axe. The second option is preferable if your hand is not full for precise work chainsaw.
- Placed on top of the embedding block edged board and is fixed flush with self-tapping screws - two at the top and bottom. To do this, pre-drill a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head.
- If the “tenon-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the pre-cut T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed with self-tapping screws.
- Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the 5 cm thick top laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
- The top should fit into the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle.
- The insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and covered on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. Under no circumstances should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - accumulated condensation will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.
And this is how casing is done “into the deck”:
When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to installing double-glazed windows.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows
The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.
Checking the delivered glass unit
Under no circumstances should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap at the top will be 1 cm. The clover must be included in the kit, and under You need to leave room for it when designing the window. It is needed so that a window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.
If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, you must also check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” because windows are shipped without them. But dowels are special fasteners that you need to select yourself.
Their length should be such that when fully screwed in, they only reach the middle of the casing board. And this is taking into account the gap. If you screw the dowel into the wall wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of the frame.
Often people do not pay attention to small elements - decorative trims, fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and sill need to be ordered - if you forget to specify their necessity, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass themselves - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.
They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because, thanks to their different sizes, you can align the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge required thickness under corners and posts.
Disassembly and preparation of double-glazed windows
The finished glass unit is delivered in assembled form. But to install it, you will have to disassemble everything down to the frame. To do this:
- when closed, use a special key to remove the upper pins holding the swinging sash;
- the window handle is inserted, the sash is opened and removed from the lower fastenings;
- the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
- you need to remember or mark the right and left glazing beads;
- the protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun it will not come off in a few months;
- external elements are installed - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
- holes are drilled for the dowels - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;
As soon as preliminary preparation completed, you can proceed directly to installation.
Installation of frame and assembly of plastic windows
First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, with temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it’s much easier to do everything with an assistant - he simply holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Installing the frame also requires following the correct sequence:
- The lower edge is aligned with the level - a laser level is more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
- Side spacers are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If width window frame is too small and literally “falls out” of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.
- The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that it needs to be installed in a “warm” zone - for wooden walls without external insulation it is clearly in the middle.
- Once the frame is level, you can begin attaching it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the wood through those already made in the frame, and then dowels are attached. First the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
- Once the frame is fixed, the flashing is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and the gap under it is filled with polyurethane foam.
- Decorative overlays are placed on the sash fastening elements. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then in open state the handle is attached.
- Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.
- The installation seam is foamed around the perimeter.
- A window sill is being installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill beam, and wedges are placed under it to level it. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and free space foams between the wedges. The window sill is placed again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.
- In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, check it for level and screw it to the casing with dowels. And only then they put a double-glazed window on top of it. In this case, there is no need to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the window sill material must withstand the action external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.
Once the polyurethane foam has hardened, you can begin finishing the windows.
Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house
The easiest option that even girls can handle is to close them plastic panels. For this you will need:
- L-shaped or starting profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
- decorative plastic corner– it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
- herself plastic lining for slopes.
And you don’t even need to foam anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection for the assembly seam and good insulation, you should lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. On the outside, the seam is covered with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.
And in order for the windows to delight you with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You don’t need to restrain your soul’s impulses if you want to start doing something. with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!
When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation plastic windows done with your own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.
Construction of plastic windows
To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.
The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.
In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible blue. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.
There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.
If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.
Window profiles as standard have white, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.
Window structure
To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.
It consists of:
- Frames. This is the base of the window.
- If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
- The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
- Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
- Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
- To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.
At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged to the street.
The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.
How to measure a plastic window
When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.
Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the most small value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.
If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.
The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.
When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).
Preparation
If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, you need to remove all construction waste. Ideally, sweep away everything, even the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” well with the wall during installation.
If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.
How to install correctly: choosing an installation method
There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.
This is a setup for anchor bolt. There are three of them on each side.
When installing without unpacking, attach to the frame from the outside metal plates, and then - to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads the frame will warp or it will sag.
If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.
In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.
Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions
Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.
Installation and unpacking
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:
- Removing the window sash:
- Close the window (the handle is turned down).
- Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
- There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
- Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
- On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
- Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
- The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
- Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
- This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
- With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.
Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
- Removing the window sash:
- The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.
- Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
- The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.
- Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
- Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required quantity once.
- Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
- A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is inserted under the frame lip and secured there to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.
- Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
- A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
- Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.
When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap
- Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
- Assemble all parts of the window. All that remains is the finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
- A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of durum varieties impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).
Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.
The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.
Installation without unpacking
The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable ones from thick metal.
They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.
Then install plastic windows yourself with mounting plates identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.
Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.
Plastic windows are used everywhere. They are displacing wooden structures due to a number of advantages, the main ones being reliable thermal insulation and the absence of wind blowing. Installing a window in wooden house has the peculiarity that the structure is not rigid. Therefore, a special frame mount is made for it, protecting it from loads from the walls.
How to install a plastic window in a wooden house? To do this, you need to take the dimensions of the opening, dismantle the old structure, make and assemble a new box if the existing one does not fit. After this, you should insert new frames with double-glazed windows and a window sill, and then install slopes on the plastic windows.
Determining the dimensions of the opening
To take measurements, the trim is first removed. The plastic frame must fit into the opening inside the box. A gap of 2 cm should be left between them around the entire perimeter so that it can be filled with foam in the future. In addition, on top of the box you should leave an opening of 8 cm to the top log, which is necessary for shrinking the walls.
Tools and materials
Installation of slopes
When we install a plastic window ourselves, there is nothing easier to finish the slopes of a wooden house. To do this, you can use clapboard or block house, which fit well with the rest of the decoration of the room. They are nailed across to the frame, and the corners are sealed with a corner. Guides are installed for them on the side of the frame. Window openings can be trimmed wood panels, which are glued to the mounting foam.
To prevent the foam from pushing out the slope, it is secured to the wall with mounting tape (painting tape). After gluing, the fastening is removed, the protrusions are framed with a profile. Small installation defects can be eliminated using silicone sealant.
Low tide mount
The external tin plate is installed with a slope to remove sediment. Slopes are made and installed under it. The length of the ebb is selected with a margin of 3 cm on each side. When installed, the edges are folded upward. It is advisable to foam the ebb from below so that it does not rattle from wind and rain. You can also place an elastic backing underneath it.
Conclusion
By following all the rules and tips on how to install a plastic window in a wooden house, you can create comfortable conditions in it for many years.
The heat-protective properties of a double-glazed window are selected according to the table of coefficients of reduced heat transfer resistance.
Before installing a plastic window, you should ensure that it is independent of the walls moving when they dry out. For this purpose, a pigtail with the ability to slide relative to the logs is used.
Inserting a plastic window into a wooden house is not as difficult as it might seem: if you know some of the technical details, even a non-professional will be able to do it. It must be remembered that wood is a special living material, and all work must be carried out taking into account the future shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the technology for installing a plastic window in this case will be slightly different from standard installation. Let's look at each stage in detail.
Creating and preparing a window opening
How to properly install a plastic window in a wooden house? The success of the work depends, first of all, on a well-prepared opening: most often in a wooden house it is cut after the frame has been assembled, but sometimes it is done during the construction stage. In the first case, you can proceed to the preparation of openings only after the completion of the main shrinkage, that is, a year and a half after construction. The contours of the hole are drawn using a plumb line and level, and then very carefully cut with a chainsaw.
It is advisable to apply the markings at the stage of assembling the house, so that there are no dowels in the openings. The calculation is made so that the upper and lower logs are cut in half: this will allow you to calmly install the casing to even horizontal surfaces. When preparing the opening, it is necessary to take into account the size of the casing. Therefore, the width should be more sizes frames by 14 cm, on top – at least 12–14 cm more, on the bottom – by 7 cm for installing a window sill and a layer of polyurethane foam.
If the opening is prepared at the assembly stage, it should be 10% smaller in width than planned. This is necessary; after the logs dry, it will take on the specified value. If you immediately give it standard size, after shrinking it will be larger than necessary.
Before inserting plastic windows into a wooden house, you should carefully treat all the end parts of the logs and cover them with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting. In addition, the wood needs to be sanded to ensure a smooth surface. Often it has to be leveled in height: wooden houses rarely remain perfectly level after shrinkage. To ensure the frame fits correctly, the hole must be aligned using laser level and plumb line.
Casing installation
If you want to understand how to properly insert plastic windows into a log house, it is important to understand the installation of the casing. This design is also commonly called a window frame: it is designed to protect the window opening from the effects of shrinkage. The frame is an additional frame that is mounted to the end parts of the opening logs according to the sliding principle: the logs will gradually fall along it and will not cause harm to the frame.
To create a moving connection, several installation options are possible:
- A rectangular groove 5 cm wide and deep is cut out in the end part of the logs and in the side parts of the casing. A block of the same size, wrapped in insulation, is inserted into it. When lowering, the logs will gradually slide along the block, the casing will remain in place, and the window blocks will not be damaged.
- A groove 5 cm deep and wide is cut out of the logs, and a T-shaped structure of a timber frame is inserted into it. The tenon should fit tightly into the groove; to get rid of squeaking, it should be wrapped in insulation.
- There is also a reverse option: a tenon is cut out in the logs of the opening, and a socket groove is mounted on it.
In all cases, the vertical elements are installed first, and the upper and lower horizontal boards are mounted to them. In some cases, the pigtail is installed without the lower part. A gap of approximately 7 cm is left above the top board: it will gradually decrease as the walls are lowered and will completely disappear after a few years. For a while it is filled with insulation so that the heat does not escape outside.
The casing box must not be installed on mounting foam; it must not be used to fill the upper gap. This is an inelastic material, it will not shrink, so the casing will simply lose its meaning and will sink along with the house itself, breaking the frames.
Okosyachka, like the others wooden elements, treated with an antiseptic. After the protective layer has dried, it is ready to install the plastic block.
Design selection criteria
When deciding how to properly insert plastic windows into a wooden house made of timber or logs, you need to study the manufacturers' proposals. Plastic window systems are selected according to several parameters:
- The number of chambers in the profile determines the thermal efficiency. Manufacturers offer three-, four- and five-chamber profiles. A four-chamber will be quite sufficient for the conditions middle zone: thanks to the air layers, it will not freeze and will be quite durable.
- Type of glass unit. The more there is air chambers and sheets of glass, the more powerful a heat insulator it will be. However, three-chamber double-glazed windows are very expensive, they are heavy and require high-quality fittings.
- Type of fittings. You cannot save money by choosing a set of accessories. The performance of the handle, the ability to select operating modes, as well as the strength of the frame itself depend on it. If you select cheap option, very soon the window will begin to sag and will not close well.
- Manufacturer. The classic option, guaranteeing excellent quality, is the original German systems Rehau, KBE and others. However, their complete analogues are now being manufactured in Russia, which cost significantly less. In addition, we must remember that it is more profitable to purchase any products and designs directly from the manufacturer, in which case they cost a significantly lower amount.
In addition to the frames themselves, you need to purchase handles, ebbs, window sills, additional accessories, as well as platbands that will cover the installation seam. Typically, installation companies offer a complete installation kit along with the window unit. It can be supplemented with anti-burglary fittings, special child locks, a “comb” for ventilation, etc.
Window sill installation
Dust and debris are removed from the opening with the casing already installed, and the surface is cleaned. After this, a window sill is installed: it is the base for the window, so it needs to be mounted as evenly and accurately as possible. To install it, you need to make 8 mm notches in the window frame; the window sill itself is attached to the bottom of the casing or the bottom log with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to place special washers under them so that the plastic does not begin to crack.
The window sill must be strictly horizontal, so after installation it is checked with a building level. If there are any deviations, plastic or wooden wedges are placed under it.
After installing the frame, the places where the screws are attached will be invisible; they will be completely hidden by the box. The window sill can be not only plastic: it is made from natural or artificial stone, wood, other materials.
Frame installation
How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house? When everything is finished preparatory work, you can proceed directly to installation window system. Protective film it is not removed until the very end of the process, this is guaranteed to protect it from damage. A handle is pre-attached to the frame, as shown in the instructions supplied by the manufacturers; the doors with double-glazed windows can be removed during installation; working with an empty frame is much easier.
The step-by-step installation process is as follows:
- 4 holes are drilled in the side posts of the casing and in the side parts of the window for installing fasteners. The distance from the top and bottom edges to the hole should be 25–30 cm; this arrangement of fasteners will ensure even distribution of the load.
- The window frame is placed in the opening, after which it is leveled using a building level, a plumb line and spacer bars. When it takes a perfectly level position, it is attached to the casing using long self-tapping screws.
- The doors with double-glazed windows are placed in the box. It is important to make sure that the frame is not skewed and that the doors open and close freely and clearly.
- After all checks, the spacer bars are removed, and the space between the casing and the box is filled with polyurethane foam. After drying, it will provide an airtight seal and will reliably protect your home from the cold.
- The last stage of the work is the installation of the drip tide: it will drain rainwater from the wall and prevent moisture from entering the house. Low tide is cut to the right size and is attached using self-tapping screws. The seams filled with polyurethane foam are covered with decorative trims.
Important! Self-tapping screws should not pass through the casing and screw into the wall. The block is attached exclusively to the casing, otherwise its installation will be useless, and the plastic block will suffer from shrinkage. The casing is connected to the house movably, and the logs will gradually take their places, while the window frame must be motionless.
Knowing how to correctly insert double-glazed windows in a wooden house, you can completely glaze the building without the help of specialists. Window structures made of plastic correct installation They serve for a long time and perfectly protect the building from the cold, and coping with this work is not so difficult.
The thickness of the polyurethane foam layer should be at least 2 cm; you cannot skimp on it. For greater reliability and tightness of the connection, the space under the window sill can be coated with a special silicone sealant. This is a good additional protection against blowing.
In any case, the polyurethane foam will have to be covered from sunlight: It is destroyed by exposure to ultraviolet rays. They will help carved frames or decorative shutters that can become important element home decorations.
All installation work It is recommended to carry out at positive temperatures. Plastic changes its structure when severe frosts: At -10 and below, it becomes brittle and can get damaged very easily. To avoid unnecessary problems, choose the right time for installation.
Installation of plastic window blocks requires increased attention to the correctness of angles, compliance with vertical and horizontal lines. Even a slight misalignment can subsequently lead to increased load on the fittings, which will negatively affect the operation of the entire structure. If the sashes are skewed, they will begin to creak and close poorly, and the hinges will quickly become unusable.
And once again: installing windows cannot be done immediately after building a wooden house, even if it is built from dried lumber. It will take at least six months for the logs to finally take their places, then the installation will be safe.
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You can find out detailed and expanded information on the topic of the article from the book “Wooden Houses,” which reflects all stages of building a house, from laying the foundation to installing the roof. Book price = 77 rubles.