The heated floor system will be an excellent addition to the main heating system. Also, a warm floor can easily perform the functions of the main heating without the need for additional devices.
Often, owners decide to install heated floors on their own. And if to connect you need to have the skills to perform electrical work, then anyone can independently install a water heated floor. Read the instructions and get to work.
Preparatory work
First step
Dismantle old screed to the very foundation. Make sure that surface differences do not exceed 1 cm.
Second step
Place a layer of waterproofing material on a thoroughly cleaned surface.
Third step
Secure around the perimeter of the room damper tape. If your system consists of several circuits, the tape must also be laid along the line between these circuits.
Fourth step
Thermal insulation material, as well as the insulation procedure, is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular situation.
So, if the system is used as a supplement to the main heating, it will be enough to lay foil polyethylene.
In most situations, foam plastic or other suitable material is used as a thermal insulation material.
Also available for sale are insulation materials designed specifically for installation in combination with underfloor heating pipes. Their structure already contains channels for laying pipes.
Fifth step
Lay reinforcing mesh over the thermal insulation. It will help increase the strength of the screed with which you fill the pipes.
In this case, the system pipes can be attached directly to the mesh, eliminating the need to use special clips and strips. In this case, ordinary plastic ties can be used for fastening.
You need to perform an individual calculation and determine the optimal pipe laying parameters for each individual room.
The easiest way to do the calculation is with help - this will give you the opportunity to save time and effort.
It is quite difficult to calculate the required power for each individual circuit solely using formulas. Such a calculation requires taking into account many parameters. In this case, the slightest mistake can lead to extremely unfavorable consequences.
To calculate the system you need to know the following parameters:
The listed parameters will allow you to calculate the optimal length of the pipes to be laid, as well as the appropriate spacing for their placement to ensure the required level of heat transfer.
You must also choose a suitable pipe laying route. Remember: as water passes through the pipes, it gradually loses heat. That's why the distribution must be carried out taking into account the series important nuances , namely:
- It is recommended to start laying pipes from the less warm (outer) walls of the room;
- if the pipe is not introduced into the room from the side outer wall, then part of the pipe from the point of entry to the wall must be insulated;
- in order to gradually reduce the heating intensity from the outer walls of the room to the inner walls, a “snake” installation option is used;
- In order to ensure uniform heating of the space in rooms that do not have external walls (wardrobes, bathrooms, etc.), the spiral installation method should be used. In this case, the spiral should develop from the edge of the room to its middle.
The most commonly used pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 300 mm. In places with increased heat losses, the pipe spacing can be reduced to 150 mm.
It is desirable that the resistance of the pipes in the circuits connected to the common collector be the same. To do this, you need to divide especially large contours into several smaller contours. Particularly large in this case include circuits whose pipe length exceeds 100 m.
Also, experts strongly do not recommend heating several rooms with one circuit. Attic floors, glazed verandas, balconies, etc. the rooms must be heated by a separate system circuit. Otherwise, the heating efficiency will be significantly reduced.
Installation guide for underfloor heating system
Proceed with installation of the system. The work is carried out in several stages.
First stage - collector
The collector is installed in a collector box specially designed for this purpose. Typically the thickness of such a box is 120 mm. Select the dimensions in accordance with the dimensions of the collector frame and taking into account the dimensions of various types of additions such as drain sensors, pressure sensors, etc.
Arrange the collector group so that there is a gap underneath it sufficient to bend the pipes.
Install the manifold cabinet. Do this so that the lengths of pipes from each heated room and system circuit are approximately the same.
Most often, manifold cabinets are simply mounted into the walls - the 120 mm thickness allows this to be done. The collector box must be installed above the level of the floor heating system.
It is important to remember: creating various kinds of niches in load-bearing walls is strictly not recommended, and in most situations it is even strictly prohibited.
The assembly of the manifold cabinet is carried out in accordance with the included instructions, so you will not encounter any problems or difficulties at this stage.
Second stage - heating boiler
First of all, choose the appropriate power. The equipment must be able to withstand incoming loads normally and have a certain power reserve. The calculation is extremely simple: you add up the power of all underfloor heating systems and add a 15 percent margin.
The coolant in the system under consideration is provided by a pump. The design of modern boilers includes a suitable pump initially. Usually its power is sufficient to ensure normal functioning of the system in rooms up to 120-150 m2.
If the room dimensions exceed the given values, you will have to install an additional pump. In such situations, pumps are installed in remote manifold cabinets.
Shut-off valves must be installed directly at the coolant inlet and outlet points from the boiler. With these devices, you can turn off heating equipment when the need arises, for example, for repairs or preventive maintenance.
Most often, home craftsmen give preference - they are the easiest to install and perform very well when working in conjunction with a heated floor system. To install and connect the equipment, simply follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Prices for the range of heating boilers
Heating boilers
Third stage - pipes
Pipe laying is carried out in accordance with a previously prepared diagram. To fasten elements, profiles with holes for placing screws are usually used.
You can also attach the pipes to the mesh using plastic ties - this was already mentioned earlier.
When fastening the pipes, make sure that they are not pinched too tightly - it is better when the loop is loose.
Try to make bends as neat as possible, while observing the recommendations for the minimum permissible radius. In the case of polyethylene pipes, this radius is usually 5 pipe diameters.
If you pinch a polyethylene pipe too hard, a whitish stripe will form on its bend. This indicates the occurrence of a crease. It is prohibited to use such pipes - a breakthrough will very quickly appear at the break point.
Connect the system pipes to the manifold using a fitting or a Eurocone system.
After completing the installation of the system, be sure to check. To check, fill in water, apply a pressure of about 5 bar and leave the heated floor in this condition for a day. If after 24 hours no noticeable expansions or leaks are noted, you can begin installing the screed.
The fourth stage - screed
When pouring, operating pressure must be applied to the pipes. After pouring, the screed should be left to dry for a month. Only after the screed has fully gained strength can you proceed to laying the finishing coating.
When forming a concrete screed, you need to take into account a number of important features, related to the nature of the distribution of thermal energy in the thickness of the fill and the finishing coating used.
If tiles are to be laid, the thickness of the screed should be about 30-50 mm. Or you can reduce the distance between the pipes to 100-150 mm. Otherwise, the heat will be distributed completely unevenly.
When laying linoleum, laminate panels, etc., the thickness of the screed should be even smaller. To strengthen the fill in such a situation, it is necessary to use an additional reinforcing mesh laid on top of the pipes.
Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors
Screeds and self-leveling floors
Thus, laying the underfloor heating system can be done on your own without any problems. You just need to follow the instructions given and take a responsible approach to carrying out all activities.
Good luck!
Video - Make a heated floor with your own hands
For many years, standard heating schemes using traditional radiators were considered the only possible and most convenient source of heat. Appearance on the market of heat-resistant and durable plastic pipes made it possible to create warm water floors in the heating circuits of homes, which initially played the role of an additional source of heat. It is not known who was the first to decide to radically modernize the heating system and make the created heated water floor with his own hands the main heating of the home. But nowadays this heating method is very popular.
To the question - where to start, how to make a water heated floor with your own hands, the answer is clear. You need to start with thermal calculations and creating a detailed piping diagram for using the system as the main heating. First, calculations are made of the heat losses of the premises and the required power of water heating of the floors. In the absence of experience and knowledge, it is strongly recommended to entrust this difficult work to professionals in order to avoid disappointment and significant material losses in the future.
To carry out thermal calculations, you can use specialized computer programs or use a warm water floor calculator.
The practice of using heated floors, the obtained statistical data and experience made it possible to systematize recommendations on how to make heated floors from water heating in a house.
Doing thermal calculations, it is necessary to take into account first of all:
Having the initial data you can easily draw general scheme, on which to mark the main highways and the location of the collector unit. A special (three-way or two-way) valve is usually installed in the manifold for a warm water floor to regulate the temperature of the coolant using the mixing method. The circuits have a significant length (up to 80 meters), so the system is supplied. For large areas of premises, the system should not be simplified; it is better to make several heating circuits with a pipeline length of no more than 100 meters.
Designers and heating system specialists give a number of recommendations, in particular, before you make a water heated floor yourself, you need to follow certain rules for installing the circuit as the main method of heating your home.
The essence of these rules is as follows:
These recommendations must be strictly followed and taken into account when creating a preliminary design, which on a sheet of paper will reflect the installation of a water heated floor with your own hands and prevent possible errors when installing the circuit.
The main elements of the heating system "warm floors"
The home heating system, which is based on water-heated floors, operates on a simple principle. They are laid under the floor, along which hot coolant moves through a circulation pump from the distribution manifold. It gives off its heat to the floor, which evenly heats the room. It should be noted that the interior of the room changes beyond recognition, because there are no heating radiators, return and supply pipes, which allows you to create unusual design solutions on housing arrangement.
The main elements of the system and what is needed for a warm water floor in the house:
Requirements for the main elements of the heating system "warm floors"
As for any heating scheme, the main element on which the efficiency and reliability of the heating system depends is the boiler that heats the water or other coolant in the system. Another element that is necessary for such a heating system is assembled, installed and connected. The third element for creating a warm floor is pipes for connecting and laying heating circuits.
Properties of the main elements of this heating method in more detail:
Laying water floors indoors
In the practice of installing underfloor heating systems, two main methods of laying heating circuits are used - concreting and the laying method. But before you start laying the contour you need to do some preparatory work. From them correct implementation The heating efficiency will largely depend.
Work that requires increased attention during preparation for installation:
Creating a warm floor using concreting
Before you do it, that is, start laying pipes and creating a heating circuit, you need to install the collector in the place that was determined when creating the project. Then a damper tape is installed to compensate for temperature fluctuations in the screed. The pipes are attached either to the reinforcing mesh or to special thermal insulation for heated floors, which has grooves and fastenings for the circuit pipes.
Laying is done in several ways: snake, loops, spiral or snail-type laying. These are the basic installation diagrams for warm water floors in an apartment or private house. Laying step for different regions and external conditions are different, from 10 to 40 centimeters. The distance from the wall of the room to the nearest circuit pipe is at least 8 centimeters.
After careful and careful installation, testing of the installed circuit during the day is necessary. Water is supplied to the circuit at a pressure of 5 - 6 bar and it remains under pressure for at least 24 hours. Then everything is carefully and carefully checked for defects or leaks. Only after a successful test of the circuit does the warm water floor begin to be poured with your own hands, with pipes filled with water under operating pressure. Under no circumstances should the concrete screed be dried using heating from a heating boiler due to possible cracking. The screed must harden naturally within 28 days.
The thickness of the concrete layer above the poured circuit pipes depends on the type of floor covering used.
If you are planning warm water floors under tiles with your own hands, then in this case the thickness of the screed should be from 3 to 5 centimeters, and the distance between the circuit pipes from 10 to 40 centimeters. In the same case, if a laminate is used for a warm water floor, the thickness of the screed should be reduced to a reasonable minimum, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh should be laid over the circuit pipes. The mesh will add rigidity, strengthen the structure and reduce thermal resistance screeds.
Laying pipes
If the house has wooden floors, then the installation of a warm water floor is carried out using the so-called laying method. This method involves laying pipes in a specially prepared flooring.
There are many plastic modules on sale with seats and pipe mounts already prepared in them.
Wood blocks with longitudinal channels and fastenings are also produced. With this installation method, to reduce heat losses, a special underlay for a warm water floor is installed on the prepared base, which has high waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.
There are a lot of tips and recommendations, even step-by-step instructions for creating warm water floors with your own hands on the Internet. This topic is popular, despite the presence of other systems of heated floors and ceilings - infrared and electric (laying a special cable in a screed). Price per square meter warm water floor is the smallest among all existing ones. But it should be borne in mind that this is a very difficult and responsible job that requires knowledge, skills and abilities.
Traditional heating systems using wall radiators are characterized by the fact that the air is heated and rises, leaving bottom part cooler rooms. In addition, batteries are usually located near the window, covered with curtains and furniture. The device of a “warm floor” solves all these problems at once - the heated air diverges from the very bottom and is distributed evenly throughout the room.
Varieties
- Electric heated floors (cable, base or so-called heating mats and infrared).
- Mermen.
Both types can replace the main heating system, or supplement it. Average term operation – 20 years. The level of security and reliability is also approximately the same.
Electric floors can be installed in any room, even in apartments where a water floor is not allowed (relatively old buildings with a centralized heating system and weak floor slabs). They allow you to quickly warm up the room and are easy to install. In turn, water floors are cheaper to operate and do not create radiation.
Video - Electric heated floor
Installation technology for electric underfloor heating systems
Here it is important to take into account the diameter of the temperature sensor cable and the dimensions of the cable channels for the main power wire. The thermostat should be located at a height of 30-50 cm.
Surface preparation
The floor is cleared of construction waste, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and a damper tape is fixed along the edges - it will prevent unnecessary heat loss from the walls. We lay these ceilings with a 10 cm overlap on the wall so that they then end up above the finished heated floor - the excess will be carefully trimmed off at the very end of installation.
In order not to “give” heat to the neighbors below or in the basement, we make thermal insulation. Traditionally this is expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam. For enough warm rooms A layer of foam foam 4 mm is enough. Insulation is laid over the entire area without exception.
Marking
Places where furniture, partitions, plumbing and engineering equipment separated by tape - these areas are not subject to heating. After this, a drawing must be made based on the technology for laying a specific type of heated floor (heating cable or mats).
Installation. Step by step guide
- Connect the ends of the wiring of the mounting section to the thermostat. Secure the beginning of the cable and the connecting sleeve.
- Begin laying the section, avoiding cable intersections and contacts. The optimal distance between turns is 8 cm. The laying step is strictly observed along the entire perimeter. The bends are made smooth, without sharp breaks or tension.
Advice! It is very convenient to secure the cable loops with protruding tabs provided on the mounting tape.
- Install the temperature sensor.
Very important: the sensor is first placed in a corrugated tube without holes so that the screed solution does not penetrate inside; access to the sensor should be as easy as possible (in case it fails).
The end of the plastic tube near which the sensor is located is covered with a plug, the second is connected to the thermostat and inserted into the groove left for it. It is customary to adhere to the bending radius of the tube - 5 cm, and the distance from the wall to the location of the sensor - 50-60 cm. This way, the device will be able to correctly determine the temperature, and if it breaks, you will not have to open the floor.
After about a month, the screed will be completely dry and you can build on top of it. decorative coating. It is better to use materials with high thermal conductivity - tiles, porcelain tiles, etc. The main thing is that the efficiency of the heating system is not lost due to the top flooring.
Important points!
- During the installation process, it is better not to step on the cable at all. To be on the safe side, use soft-soled shoes. To move around the room without harming the future heated floor, you can cover the areas with the cable laid with sheets of plywood.
- Careful work with construction tools is a prerequisite. Any mechanical damage cables make the heating system unusable or unsafe.
- Under no circumstances should you turn on the system while the solution is still wet (drying time is 28-30 days)!
Cable on reinforcing mesh: distinctive installation features
For high-quality installation of heating mats and films with infrared heating element You need to carefully level the base surface, carefully clean it with a brush and prime it. As in the case of the cable, it will be useful to mark the area so that there is no heavy furniture above the heated floor, household appliances or partitions.
To adjust the mats to the size of the room, the mesh is cut, leaving the cable itself intact. Intersection or overlap of fragments is not allowed.
IN different types separate mats are used in rooms. On top adhesive solution You can lay the tiles straight away, making sure that no air pockets appear and the cable is not damaged. The thickness of the adhesive mixture is 8-10 mm.
Advice! Avoid drafts in the room while working.
Infrared heated floor: a few nuances
On the film with the infrared heating element, cut lines are immediately applied, and as a substrate under it, a layer of heat-reflecting material fixed double-sided tape or a construction stapler (the joints are hidden with tape).
Installation algorithm
1. The cut points of the copper bus are insulated, and on the other side, contact clamps are connected to it, and one part of the contact should be inside the film.
3. The wires are placed in contact clamps and fixed there with pliers.
4. The contact clamps are covered on both sides with special pieces for insulation (usually supplied complete with thermal film).
Advice! When insulating, it is important that the length completely covers the silver cuts along the edges of the copper bar.
5. The temperature sensor is attached to the black strip of the film. A small cutout is made in the heat-reflecting material to immerse the sensor. In the same way, places with contact clamps and wires.
8. A special backing for laminate or regular film is placed on top, after which you can immediately install flooring.
Advice! If carpet or laminate is laid on top of the infrared floor, it is better to additionally cover the thermal film with sheets of plywood.
Interestingly, systems with infrared heaters save up to 60% of electricity, and due to “dry installation” the roll can be rotated diagonally or even vertically (i.e., walls can also be insulated).
The preparation stage includes leveling the surface. Sometimes it is enough to simply remove the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner and seal the cracks, but to correct serious unevenness it is better to first make a screed. Next, waterproofing must be installed.
Optimal indicators: density – 35 kg/m3; thickness – from 30 mm. Usually polystyrene or penoplex is used. The material is supplied in rolls or in the form of mats with a special relief coating. The plates are fixed into grooves, and the upper part serves as the basis for laying pipes.
Along the perimeter along the walls there is damper tape, separating the partitions from the layer of thermal insulation and screed. The part of the tape that ends up above the floor is cut off at the end of the work.
Protection. A film or multifoil is placed under the pipe fittings.
Where is there room for a pumping and mixing unit connected to the manifold block. Further the structure is connected to a high-temperature circuit.
The main options: “snake” or “snail” (spiral).
Requirements:
- length of the entire circuit – no more than 90 m;
- for every 1 m2 there should be 5 m of pipe;
- laying step - about 20 cm;
- for rooms with a large area, several separate loops of the thermal circuit should be installed.
To do this, chamfers are removed from the pipe, a crimp connector is put on it, and when connected, the Eurocone is tightened using wrench. Servo drives are placed on top, thanks to which during operation it will be possible to regulate the temperature with a thermostat.
Connecting servomotors and room thermostats to the communicator.
Checking the system for strength and tightness. Water is supplied to the pipes, the pressure of which should be slightly higher than the operating value (about 1.5 times or 0.6 MPa). System pressure testing produced within 24 hours air compressor or hydraulic press. This allows problems to be identified and corrected before the pipes are buried in the cement mortar.
The solution is poured onto warm pipes so that they do not burst during expansion during operation. However, under no circumstances should you let water flow through the pipes before the concrete is completely dry.
Basic Requirements
Alternative to screed: polystyrene boards, wooden modular or slatted system.
You can use it as a covering for a warm floor ceramic tiles– it has excellent heat dissipation, it is wear-resistant and the design can be easily matched to any type of interior. Often laminate, linoleum or carpet is laid on top of the floor heating system. Parquet is very capricious in this regard - it quickly loses its properties due to temperature changes.
As for power, the average value is 150 W/m2. Linoleum has increased heat transfer, so 120 W/m2 is enough for it.
Install electric or water heated floors and keep your feet warm!
Nowadays, many residents of private houses install water heated floors for their main or additional heating. It has many advantages: it increases comfort, evenly warms the room, and does not require additional energy costs (since it operates from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water heated floors even without experience. However, before doing this, it is worth studying all the nuances.
The warm water floor system is best combined with laying under and tiles.
- Firstly, both materials are strong and durable.
- Secondly, they do not emit harmful substances when heated.
- And thirdly, heating perfectly complements the tiles (the material itself is cold), and you can even walk on it barefoot thanks to its high heat capacity.
Of course, warm floors can also be made under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, if there is a special mark.
But, for example, there is no point in heating the carpet, and the surface temperature cannot be exceeded above 31°C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.
Installation in an apartment
Probably, many residents had the idea to independently connect water heated floors to the system “for free” central heating or DHW. And some even do this, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.
For example, in Moscow there is government decree No. 73-PP dated February 8, 2005; Appendix No. 2 clearly states that it is prohibited to re-equip public water supply systems for floor heating.
If you break the rules, at best, you can get a fine on your first visit to the plumbers. And at worst, there is a risk of leaving your neighbors without heating.
In some regions the ban does not apply, but connection requires an examination so as not to disrupt the operation of the system.
In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only if a separate pumping and mixing unit is connected and the pressure in the system is maintained at the outlet.
Pay attention! If in apartment building If there is a jet pump (elevator), then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.
Floor installation methods
There are several ways to create a warm water floor.
- The most popular and reliable of them is concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, 16 mm pipes cannot be hidden in tile adhesive, and it won’t work. Therefore, the screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
- The second method is to lay pipes in cut-out polystyrene foam grooves. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
- The next option is often used in houses with wooden floors, although it requires a lot of labor - laying it in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are placed on the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for installation.
Types of pipes used
Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.
- Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to work with because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (they straighten when heated). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are repairable.
- Metal-plastic pipes – best option: low price, easy to install, keep their shape stably.
- Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline attack.
Calculation of a warm water floor
Before installation and purchasing materials, it is necessary to calculate the heated floor. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which will later be useful when carrying out repair work to know the position of the pipes.
- If you are sure that furniture or plumbing will always be in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
- The length of a circuit with a diameter of 16 mm should not exceed 100 m (the maximum for 20 mm will be 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be poor. Thus, each circuit approximately occupies no more than 15 square meters. m.
- The difference between the lengths of several circuits should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of uniform length. Large rooms, accordingly, are divided into several circuits.
- The optimal pipe laying pitch is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible near external walls). And in the north you cannot do without additional radiators.
- With a laying step of 15 cm, the pipe consumption is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laid every 10 cm - 10 m.
The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on the average coolant temperature. The dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and the solid lines indicate 16 mm. 
The graph shows data that is valid only when using a 7 cm thick cement-sand screed covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flow density decreases by 5-8%.
- To find the flux density, the amount of heat loss in the room in Watts is divided by the area where the pipes are laid (the distances from the walls are subtracted).
- The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the entrance to the circuit and the return exit.
The optimal temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum coolant temperature should not exceed 55°C.
Using the above diagram, you can only perform a rough calculation and make final adjustments using the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact professional heating engineers.
Warm floor pie
The technology for laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg/sq. m.
If the base is a concrete slab: 
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- reinforcing mesh;
- water heated floor pipe;
- screed
For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary polyethylene film or special materials. Damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or purchased ready-made option with self-adhesive backing.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is used, and if there is a warm base under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.
The main purpose of insulation is to direct the heat from the heating upward and prevent large heat losses.
If the base is ground floors: 
- bulk soil 15 cm;
- crushed stone 10 cm;
- sand 5 cm;
- rough screed;
- waterproofing;
- damper tape around the perimeter;
- extruded polystyrene foam at least 5 cm;
- reinforced screed with coolants.
It is important to carefully compact the preparatory layers for the rough screed layer by layer. If the base is compacted tightly and extruded polystyrene foam is used, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.
Installation of heated floors
Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or backfill layer without strong drops. Differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rod. If there are uneven areas, they can be filled with sand.
Waterproofing
Some people put waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, some, on the contrary, at the top, and some use both.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow cement laitance to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally hold back moisture from below.
If you attach it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can attach the pipes to the heated floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid on top, then laying a mounting mesh will be required to secure the pipes.
We lay the waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and on each other. We glue the joints with tape to seal.
Damper tape
If you bought ready-made tape, simply glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be above the pouring level, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by yourself, then be sure to glue or screw it to the wall with self-tapping screws.
The linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40°C.
Insulation
Sheet insulation for a warm water floor is laid with offset joints so that it is tightly connected.
Reinforcement
The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on the insulation and used as a base for attaching the contours and uniformly distributing heat over the surface. The meshes are tied together with wire. The pipes are attached to the mesh using nylon clamps.
The diameter of the mesh rods is 4-5 mm, and the cell size depends on the pipe laying pitch, for convenient fastening.
In addition, it is imperative to lay the reinforcement on top of the pipes, since even when using a mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, place the mesh on stands, creating a gap.
Pipe fixation methods
A water heated floor can be laid in several ways, we list them. 
- Polyamide clamp. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - approximately 2 pieces per 1 m.
- Steel fastening wire. Also used for mounting to a grid, the consumption is exactly the same.
- Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quickly fixing pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
- Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip that serves as a base for laying 16 or 20 mm pipes into it. Rigidly attached to the floor.
- Mats for warm water floors made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
- Aluminum distribution plate. Used when installing on wooden floors, it reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.
Application of various types of pipe fasteners Pipe laying
The pipes are laid with a distance of 15-20 cm from the walls. It is highly advisable to make each circuit from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m. The pitch between the pipes near the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.
The layout of a heated floor can be different, for example, a spiral or a snake. On external walls, they try to make the laying step more frequent or draw a contour from the feed next to cold walls. An example of a circuit for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo; this option is best used in cold regions: 
In other cases, the contours are usually laid in a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.
In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.
Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm are easy to bend manually, without the use of special tools. In order to bend the pipes evenly with an angle of a small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (hand interceptions).
At an angle of 90° you will need approximately 5-6 interceptions. This means, first, resting your thumbs, make a slight bend, then move your hands slightly towards the bend and repeat the actions.
It is unacceptable to have kinks on the pipes in places of sharp turns.
Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, to bend them, they are heated or made, but in the case of heated floors, they are simply attached to the mesh, making the bends less sharp.
Installation of a water heated floor begins by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, immediately connect the return (second end).
Connecting circuits
In most cases, the circuits are connected through a distribution node. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.
There are many connection schemes to the boiler, which we wrote about in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automatics and automatic adjustment using servos and sensors.
Eurocone fitting The pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamp fittings.
Crimping
When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to conduct pneumatic tests of the system for leaks. To do this, crimping is done using a compressor. A small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable for testing. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left for the entire time until the system is started.
Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even small depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water may freeze if you do not have time to turn on the heating, and nothing will happen to the air.
Heated floor screed
Filling the screed is done only after installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete of at least M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. The minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is done not only to obtain the required strength, but also to distribute heat evenly over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m of screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.
If the screed thickness is more than 15 cm or under high loads, additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.
As the thickness of the screed increases, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the coolant temperature will need to be set.
Expansion joints
Examples of dividing a large room into zones The absence or incorrect position of temperature gaps is the most common cause destruction of the screed.
Shrinkage seams are made in the following cases:
- the room has an area of more than 30 sq. m.;
- the walls are more than 8 m long;
- the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
- above expansion joints of structures;
- The room is too curved.
To do this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. At the seam site, the reinforcing mesh must be divided. The deformation gap should be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with sealant. If the room has a non-standard shape, it needs to be divided into simpler rectangular or square shape.
If pipes pass through expansion joints in the screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugation in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one circuit with expansion joints; supply and return pipes should pass through it.
Correct passage of contours through technological seams When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of them peeling off increases due to different expansion of adjacent slabs. To avoid this, the first part is laid with tile adhesive, and the second part is attached with elastic sealant.
For additional separation, partial profile expansion joints can be used. They are made using a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has hardened, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected with corrugation.
Cracks in the screed
A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This can be caused by a number of reasons:
- low density of insulation;
- poor compaction of the solution;
- absence of plasticizers;
- the thickness of the screed is too thick;
- absence of shrinkage seams;
- concrete drying too quickly;
- incorrect proportions of the solution.
It's very easy to avoid them:
- insulation should be used with a density higher than 35-40 kg/m3;
- the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
- in large rooms you need to make shrink seams (see below);
- You should also not let the concrete set quickly; to do this, cover it with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).
Screed mortar
For heated floors, it is necessary to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-entraining plasticizers for heated floors.
Without experience, it will not be possible to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone/gravel, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory-made concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, concrete with crushed stone is poured.
Mortar M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and crushed stone is made according to the following proportions.
- Mass composition C: P: Shch (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
- Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P: Ш (l) = 17:32.
- From 10 liters of cement you will get 41 liters of solution.
- The volumetric weight of such M300 concrete will be 2300-2500 kg/m3 (heavy concrete)
There is also another option using granite screenings instead of sand; the following elements were used for its preparation:
- 2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
- water 7-8 liters;
- superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters hot water);
- 1 bucket of cement;
- 3-4 buckets of granite screenings with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
- bucket volume – 12 liters.
High-quality concrete should not release water during installation (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20°C, it should begin to set after 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave marks from heels.
3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half its strength, and will harden completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system before this point. 
Installation on a wooden floor
Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but installation on it is also feasible. For this purpose, distribution plates made of aluminum are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by attaching pre-prepared boards.
For installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board is laid over the pipes. If parquet or laminate is used as the finishing coating, the design of the heated floor can be slightly simplified, without the use of a leveling layer.
When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have sanitary, hygienic and thermomechanical characteristics that allow them to be used together with heated floors.
Prices for water heated floors
The price of a water-heated floor is formed from several components:
- cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
- cost of the pumping and mixing unit and manifold;
- work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of screed;
- cost of installing heated floors.
On average, the price of a water heated floor when installed on a turnkey basis, along with all materials and work, will cost approximately 1,500-3,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.
Below is approximate estimate per house 100 sq. m., but prices for water heated floors greatly depend on the region, so it is best to enter your data there and make an independent calculation. This does not take into account the costs of installation and purchase of radiators, boiler, finishing coating and screed.
| Estimate for installation of a water heated floor system on the 1st floor. | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| № | Name of material | Unit change | Qty | Price | Sum |
| 1 | Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm | m2 | 96 | 227 | 21792 |
| 2 | Mounting grid 150*150*4 | m2 | 106 | 30 | 3180 |
| 3 | Polyethylene film 250 microns | m2 | 105 | 40 | 4200 |
| 4 | Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm | m.p. | 700 | 39 | 27300 |
| 5 | Damping tape from the substrate | m2 | 30 | 50 | 1500 |
| 6 | Valtec manifold 1″, 7 x 3/4″, “eurocone” | pcs. | 2 | 1600 | 3200 |
| 7 | Fitting for connecting to the manifold (Euroconus) 16x2 mm | pcs. | 14 | 115 | 1610 |
| 8 | Pumping and mixing unit | pcs. | 1 | 14500 | 14500 |
| 9 | Dowels and screws | pcs. | 300 | 1,5 | 450 |
| 10 | Mounting tape | m.p. | 50 | 11 | 550 |
| 11 | Other components for heated water floors | pos | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Total by materials | 78282 | ||||
| Name of work | Unit change | Qty | Price | Sum | |
| 1 | Rough screed | m2 | 96 | 60 | 5760 |
| 2 | Installation of damper tape | m.p. | 160 | 60 | 9600 |
| 3 | Laying waterproofing | m2 | 100 | 60 | 6000 |
| 4 | Laying the mounting grid | m2 | 110 | 150 | 16500 |
| 5 | Pipe installation | m2 | 96 | 300 | 28800 |
| 6 | System pressure testing | m2 | 96 | 20 | 1920 |
| Total by work | 68580 | ||||
| 1 | Total by materials | 78282 | |||
| 2 | Total by work | 68580 | |||
| 3 | Total | 146862 | |||
| Overhead transportation costs | 10% | 14686 | |||
| In total, according to the estimate, installation of a water heated floor system is 1 floor. | 161548 | ||||
Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video:
Warm floors heated with water are quite an attractive solution. But if you want to install them yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals and without spending money on their services, you will have to thoroughly study the topic and learn all the intricacies. You should know both the principles of connection and the methodology for constructing the base. Laying will also have to be done using special technology.
Design
There are many types of heated water floors on the market. It is produced by dozens of leading manufacturers. But regardless of the specific make and model mandatory components it turns out:
- boiler that heats water;
- water pump;
- ball valves (they are placed at the inlet to the boiler);
- pipes;
- a collector device that allows you to configure and regulate floor heating at your discretion;
- fittings through which the main route is mounted, starting from the heater, and pipes are also connected to the collectors.
Each of these components has its own characteristic features. Thus, the pipes must be made of polypropylene with a reinforcing fiberglass layer, otherwise there is a high risk of their excessive expansion when hot. Polyethylene has a lower level of thermal expansion. In this case, the optimal pipe diameter is from 1.6 to 2 cm. Find out when purchasing whether they can withstand a pressure of 10 bar when pumping water heated to 95 degrees.
The manifold through which water enters the pipeline is sometimes called a splitter. One of these devices sorts hot water along the heating circuits, and the other collects it after passing through the entire system. Both devices are installed inside the manifold cabinet. High-quality design of the collector group also includes:
- valves;
- air vents;
- devices that regulate water consumption;
- units for accelerated drainage of liquid in a critical situation.
A manifold with a shut-off valve is impractical, so it is better to choose options equipped with control systems that ensure a smooth change in the flow of coolant into one or another circuit.
The exact length and installation step when installing pipes is calculated individually for all premises (rooms). There are no uniform standards here. If you do not feel sufficiently prepared for independent calculations using specialized software, use the services of design organizations. Designers will need to know what the size of the room is, how powerful the boiler will be installed, what the walls in the house (apartment) are made of, what are the properties of the ceilings and partitions. The type of floor covering, the installation of the insulating layer and the diameter of the pipes must be taken into account.
The project must indicate not only the length of the pipe, but also the installation step and the rational installation path. Additionally, heat losses and hydraulic resistance are calculated (it must be strictly the same in each circuit). It is undesirable to use large contours (100 m and longer).
It is better to divide each one into several smaller ones. All circuits are strictly one pipe, so joints and couplings when laying in a screed are prohibited. Verandas, attics and loggias are heated separately from the adjacent rooms.
Remember that pipes must be laid starting from the outer walls, and uniform heating reduction is achieved through the “snake” pattern.
In rooms where there is only interior walls, the design of the heated floor should be spiral, directed from the boundaries of the room to its middle. In this case, a double pitch is maintained between any pair of turns.
Please note: you should select and purchase a collector only after how the number of contours and their characteristic features will be calculated. The simplest solution, equipped with only shut-off valves, is relatively cheap, but the lack of flexible adjustment options will cause a lot of inconvenience. The other extreme to avoid is an expensive manifold equipped with servos and premixers.
Such equipment in a private house or apartment is completely unnecessary, with the exception of giant cottages. When deciding which boiler to install, focus, first of all, on its power, which, even when operating in peak design mode, should have a reserve of at least 15%.
To ensure mixing of hot and cold coolant, thermostatic mixers are used. They are two-way (pair designs are placed on the supply and return pipes) and three-way (with the addition of electric drive, mounted at the boiler outlet). Take care of the presence of a servo drive and thermostat: investments in these devices are justified by the fact that it will be more convenient to use the system. Servo drives are placed on water supply combs.
Mechanical thermostats are relatively simple and reliable to use, so they are easy to use even for people with little knowledge of technology. Electronic regulators It’s a little more complicated, and if you need to flexibly adjust the operating parameters of a heated floor, you will have to purchase a programmable device.
Having understood in general terms the device and configuration of floor heating equipment, let’s now see how it works. From the boiler (in rare cases from the heated towel rail) water enters the pipeline. Passing through the thermostatic valve, it transfers a certain portion of heat to it. When a certain temperature is reached, the valve starts the process of mixing water taken from the return pipeline. For this purpose, a two-way or three-way valve installed before the circulation pump (inside a special jumper) opens.
The mixed liquid, having passed through the circulation pump, touches the thermostat, which ultimately gives commands to open and close the coolant supply from the return circuit to the main circuit. Thanks to this scheme, the water temperature is maintained within a given range of values and is instantly corrected if it deviates from it. Then the water passes into the distribution comb (but only in a large room, where there is a need to distribute the coolant through several circuits and then pump it in the opposite direction).
By installing heated floors in several rooms at once, install a temperature-regulating manifold. This is necessary not only because each requires its own degree of heating, but also because a completely identical circuit length cannot be maintained. The adjustment is especially useful if one of the rooms is internal and the other has external walls.
Thermostats can measure the heating of the air in the room or the temperature of the floor covering. Focus on what is important to you and do not confuse these two types.
Make sure there is a bypass in the heating system. It will allow you to keep the equipment in in perfect order, if suddenly the water supply to all circuits is stopped at the same time.
Pros and cons
Water heated floor economical. A low coolant temperature (not exceeding 50 degrees) will reduce the current consumption of an electric boiler by 20% (compared to heating with radiators). Uniform heating of the entire area of the home with a physiologically comfortable temperature distribution (22 degrees on the floor itself, 18 degrees at face level) can also be considered the positive side. The hidden location of the heating system completely eliminates burns and mechanical injuries in direct contact with it and the coolant, which is especially important if there are children in the house.
A safe water floor is also serves for a long time. Proper installation and correct selection of components allows the system to be used for 30-40 years. Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages. For example, increased complexity of installation (if you do not understand the problem well or do not have the necessary experience, contact professionals, or choose the electrical option). If the installation is carried out incorrectly, this not only reduces the heating efficiency, but also increases the risk of leakage.
If, due to installation errors, natural wear and tear, or any other problem, water begins to leak, you will have to disassemble the floor, dismantle the heating structure, replace it completely or partially, and only then reconnect it. Finally, in private residential buildings It will not be possible to use water floors as the only heat sources.
Long-term (tens of hours) heating cannot be considered a disadvantage: especially since significant thermal inertia will allow the floor to stably heat the air even during short-term interruptions. Be prepared that installing a water floor (even with your own hands) will be significantly more expensive than installing its electric version. Some materials in terms of 1 sq. m can cost at least 1,500 rubles. When a crew is brought in, they will need to pay no less.
A good result is achieved provided that the floor is raised by at least 10 cm. Costs are also associated with the installation of control systems, manifold cabinets and air outlet valves.
Where is it used?
Such a heating system in an apartment room can only be used theoretically. The technical obstacles are very serious. The fact is that feeding the pipeline with ready-made hot water is extremely dangerous and is simply prohibited, and special heating cold water expensive and difficult. Moreover, any efficient systems they are voluminous and heavy, that is, they take up a considerable part of the height of the room, placing a significant load on the surface of the floor and ceilings.
In a private wooden house thermal loads for individual circuits, if they differ, it is not significant. Therefore, think carefully about whether it is worth installing expensive, complex systems automatic control in a small dwelling. A large cottage or house with unheated rooms is another matter.
Place a water floor in frame house it is quite possible, but its installation has an important difference - due to the extremely lightweight foundation, you will have to abandon the use of heavy concrete screeds or cement-sand mixtures. It is more correct to use dry polystyrene installation. It was specially designed for frame dwellings. Please note that in order for the thermal effect to be maximum, you will have to think about good insulation external walls, which are usually made thin.
Its specificity water system There is also floor heating in the bathroom. If it is installed in an apartment, we recommend getting advice from a design organization, as well as creating and registering an official project and obtaining consent from neighbors. It is advisable to supply the circuit with coolant from a heated towel rail, and two-way valves at the inlet will prevent the water temperature lower and higher up the riser from decreasing. Regardless of whether you need to heat the bathroom in an apartment or in a private house, Pay maximum attention to waterproofing. It is worth spending money on a special kind of film or euroroofing felt.
The base is poured using expanded clay or small crushed stone. To prevent the appearance of irregularities, beacons must be placed. Please note that you cannot walk on bathroom floors filled with screed for 5-6 days. In this case, you will have to regularly wet the surface, otherwise it may crack. Since you can make it yourself cement mixture(which will not be covered with an intricate pattern of cracks in the next few years) a rare builder will be able to It is better to purchase a completely ready-made composition in the store. And we’ll do experiments another time, when thinking through the design of a heated bathroom, for example.
Tools for work
When installing water heated floors, you need to use 18 different instruments. You will definitely need:
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- construction hairdryer
Hand tools you will need:
- scissors;
- regular saw;
- metal saw;
- working knife;
- hammer;
- bit;
- vice;
- pliers;
- file.
Work with coatings is carried out using a spatula and a paint brush. measure out required dimensions you need a tape measure and a meter ruler, but in addition to them you will also need a sanding mesh or sandpaper.
In addition to the tools, you will also need the following materials:
- For thermal insulation, foil mats made of expanded polystyrene or slabs of the same material processed by extrusion are most often used;
- the damper self-adhesive tape should have a thickness of 0.5 to 1 cm. The pipes are secured using brackets, mounting strips, rotary arches and some other parts.
Preparing the base
According to the technology, the old screed must be completely removed so that the base floor is exposed. Immediately level the floor surface if the deviation from the horizontal exceeds 1 cm. If, after removing the old floor covering, cracks, chips and crevices remain, use a cement or gypsum leveling mixture. Next, after making sure that there is no dust, dirt or construction debris left on the surface, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top of it.
The perimeter of the base is occupied by a damper tape, which will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the main floor covering during heating. It is important to take into account that when there are several contours at once, the tape should also be placed in the spaces between contours close to each other.
To reduce unproductive heat loss, you will have to additionally insulate the ceiling. Only in rare cases is it initially ready in this sense. The choice of thermal insulation material is determined by the following considerations:
- if the heated floor serves only as an assistant to the main heating system, you can limit yourself to foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of foil;
- when the apartment is located above heated parts of the building, it is required to use extruded polystyrene foam 2-5 cm thick, or no less durable substitutes;
- in apartments located above a cold basement, more serious protection is required - expanded clay is poured and expanded polystyrene is laid in a total layer of 5 cm or more.
Modern manufacturers offer special insulating materials for heated floors. One side of such insulation has channels for installing pipelines. Recommended to use mineral wool, polystyrene foam and special mats. To strengthen the screed layer, a reinforcing mesh structure is used, to which pipes can be attached. Their connection is ensured by plastic ties, so there is no need for fastening strips or special clips. When the base is ready, there is no point in waiting for anything else - it’s time to start installing the floor heating equipment itself.
Installation
Connection diagram
Installation of a water heated floor always begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet. They place it in such a way that the distance to the pipelines going to and from all rooms is approximately equal. You can hide an unsightly-looking cabinet by building it into the wall ( load-bearing walls are not suitable for this). Please note that the box is located above the heated floor, otherwise the air outlet will be blocked.
In a modern system (with rare exceptions), circulation is provided by pumping equipment. The pump installed inside the boiler is enough to pump water over an area of 150 sq. m, even if the building is two-story. If total area If the buildings are larger, you will definitely need to install additional pumps with advanced functions.
To make it possible to service the heating system without draining the water, the boiler inlet and outlet are equipped with shut-off valves. Using them, you can disconnect the heater for repair and maintenance at any convenient time. If there are two or more manifold cabinets, the main supply route is equipped with a splitter, immediately behind which narrowing adapters are installed.
Connecting pipes to the manifold involves the use of compression fittings or Eurocone devices. If necessary, you can run such pipes through the walls and cover them on all sides with an insulating layer of foamed polyethylene. When all the parts are laid out and each block is connected to its proper place, The system must be tested. After supplying water to the pipes, keep them under a pressure of 5 or 6 bar for 24 hours (depending on the design operating value). If such a check does not lead to the appearance of visually noticeable expansions, you can safely proceed to pouring the concrete layer.
Filling the screed is allowed only when fluid is supplied at the planned pressure. Drying time until ready is at least 4 weeks (in ideal conditions). If tiles are laid on top, the screed should have a thickness of 30-50 mm, and the pipes should be distributed at a distance of 100-150 mm from each other. Failure to comply with these rules, even if the connection of all elements is correct, will lead to uneven heating different parts surfaces.
Under laminate or linoleum, the screed may be thinner. Then the reinforcing mesh helps compensate for the decrease in its strength. If a heated floor is placed under a laminate, there is no need to install thermal insulation, otherwise the energy efficiency of heating will be reduced.
Shrinkage joints must be installed in the screed if:
- the room area exceeds 30 sq m;
- there is at least one wall longer than 8 m;
- the length is less than 50 or more than 200% of the width of the room;
- the configuration is complex and bizarre.
To design screeds it is allowed to use cement-sand mixture based on Portland cement (minimum M-400, or even better, use M-500). When ready-mixed concrete is used, its grade should be M-350 and higher. In addition to laying the damper tape, the reinforcing mesh where the seam runs is separated. The thickness of each seam is 1 cm, and its upper part is treated with sealant. When passing pipes in these places they should only be placed in the outer corrugated pipe.
Water floors should be put into operation at the onset of the first cold weather. Please note that the thermal inertia of the floor covering is high, and only after a few days, when it is overcome, optimal conditions will be created.
A heated floor cannot be connected to the battery (as well as to the existing central heating and hot water supply system)! This will not only cause sanctions from regulatory government agencies, but will also lead to disruption of the normal operation of utility systems. Be sure to install an autonomous heating boiler, which will become the source of hot water in the system. In addition to manual adjustment, you can control the heated floor using a servo drive and sensor, or weather automation.
Since the system must have control and regulating components, it must be connected to electricity. Warm floors in different rooms can be controlled by one thermostat only if the thermal conductivity of the floor covering is completely identical. Such a scheme requires the same or slightly different lengths of the contours. Thermostats can be connected to electrical networks directly or through an RCD, which is much safer.
For laying power cables Either a groove is used in the wall, or an additional protective corrugation is applied.
It must be taken into account that at the time of the initial connection machines must be set to the “off” position. Look carefully which wire should be connected to which phase. An alternative installation scheme (without a concrete screed) will be discussed a little further. For now, let’s just say that its main options are placing pipes in polystyrene foam grooves or in wood grooves. The time has come to see how the water heated floor pipes will be laid.
Laying technology
Modern technology Installing heated floors involves laying pipes and holding them in place with special fastening profiles. The profiles themselves are attached to the base with dowels or screws. The advantage of this solution is that the profile is equipped with fasteners in production. You do not need to carefully measure the step from one turn to another and carefully calculate it. A simpler option is fastening with plastic ties, pressed against the reinforcing structure.
However, the simplicity of such a scheme requires eliminating unnecessary force when tightening. Make sure the loop is free. The pipe coil is carefully unwound, not immediately, but directly during the work process. The manufacturer's instructions always require that the bend be made carefully along the smallest possible radius. When using polyethylene structures, it is most often 5 pipe diameters. Do not pinch the product if a whitish streak appears on it., since this means the appearance of a crease, which will subsequently easily break through and lead to flooding.
Installation according to the “snail” or “spiral” scheme is recommended for large rooms, and makes heating more uniform. The classic “snake” works best in small rooms, and if you need to supply heat to the flooring in a medium-sized room, it is advisable to prefer a “double snake”, in which the hot and return pipes are directed in parallel.
Whatever methods are chosen, try to reduce the number of joints between pipes, as well as the number of their turns. Similar areas, despite all the perfection modern technology and careful execution by professionals, dramatically increase the risk of leakage. Ideally, connections should be made only at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.
For connecting pipes, in addition to the options listed above, there are also the following devices:
- polyamide attracting clamp (2 pcs per meter);
- steel wire (similar consumption);
- stapler and 2 clamps per meter;
- fixing tracks, or PVC-based strips;
- polystyrene mats;
- aluminum distribution plates.
The operating rules indicate that, regardless of the method of holding the pipes, their fixation is ensured by meshes with a square cell of 15x15 mm, wire diameter maximum 0.5 cm. Having introduced modern automatic devices, it is possible to make control of the flow of water through pipes not only independent of the human factor, but also remote.
The final choice of installation option must be made taking into account the private properties of the premises and the functionality of their individual parts. The “snake” system is designed to supply water initially to the cold area, and only then throughout the rest of the floor, for example.
When the screed under laminate or linoleum is made thinner than usual, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed directly below it above the contour of the heating pipes.
How to do it correctly without a concrete screed?
Long wait (about a month or even more if weather conditions unfavorable) does not suit everyone. Instead of a concrete screed, you can use a floor covering. Once you have laid the pipes, you will need to form the underlay for the finished floor. If there is a laminate on top, use cardboard and polyethylene foam. Filling under the tiles is also not necessary. Under it, as well as under linoleum, a special structure is prepared based on cement-bonded particle boards.
A warm water floor is installed on a wooden covering using aluminum distribution plates. The boards are pre-prepared, in which the necessary grooves are formed. You can make the most even surface in the bathroom with your own hands if you lay chipboards, plywood or gypsum fiber sheets over the pipes. Always carefully check that these materials meet sanitary regulations.
You can connect a warm water floor without a screed by laying pipes both between the joists and on the surface of the subfloor. Modular variation ( wooden blocks with milled grooves) can be replaced by rack, in which plywood sheet covered with slats. The intervals between them serve for the installation of pipes. Laying between joists necessarily requires the use of waterproofing, insulation, reflective plates with holes for the passage of pipes, the pipes themselves, a sheet of plywood and a finishing coating.
Laying on the flooring also involves placing insulation in the gaps of the joists on top of the waterproofing, and plywood or rough boards. A nuance: grind the boards to create channels for laying pipes. The reflective layer is made of foil, attached to the boards using staples. The pipes in the channels are held in place by narrow metal plates placed on top, and the plates themselves are also attached to the boards.
Instead of boards, you can use polystyrene mats of standard dimensions 1x0.5 m, connected to each other with a “lock” format fastening.
Always (regardless of the method of laying the heated floor) maintain an interval of 0.1 m to the wall, as this will significantly reduce the effect of thermal expansion of the floor materials. A hydrophobic coating is placed over the decking or joists. Only after this comes the turn of forming the finished floor.
In addition to the two described options for forming a heated floor without a screed, it is allowed to use a foam or wood substrate, or chipboard. Light, relatively thin floors are more expensive and are not very durable, but they are recommended for use:
- if necessary, lay a new coating over the old one without dismantling;
- if the height of the home is limited;
- if installation speed is critical for you;
- if it is impossible to arrange the delivery of concrete properly;
- if the floor is wooden;
In addition to facilitating the design, a heated floor system without screed has another undeniable advantage - it is easier to repair. Even the most good pipes When installed correctly and handled with care, they may suddenly burst. If you still want to use a full-fledged screed, but do not wait 28 days for complete drying, you should use semi-dry mixtures. Special additives in them make it possible to reduce the required amount of water, but the cost of such building materials is higher than in a simpler version.
Please note that installation of heated floors without screed is permissible only if the differences in floor level are 0.2 cm for every 2 sq. m of surface. If it is less even, a contraction layer, even the thinnest one, still needs to be created.
Possible errors
Even experienced home craftsmen who take on installing heated floors for the first time can make serious mistakes. Often, dried concrete screed is covered with a network of cracks. The reasons for this defect are varied. You can avoid its occurrence if:
- take care of the optimal density of insulation;
- make high-quality shrink seams;
- do not exceed the recommended thickness of the screed;
- do not try to dry it too quickly, speed up the normal hardening process;
- thoroughly compact the solution and strictly observe the proportions when forming it;
- add plasticizers according to the recipe.
The minimum density of insulation is 35 kg per cubic meter. Covering it with a polyethylene film will help prevent concrete from drying out too quickly.
It will help eliminate installation errors by 95% (except those caused by inattention, haste and manufacturing defects). drawing up preliminary designs. Having thought through the implementation of the system, “seeing” it on a piece of paper, you can detect shortcomings in advance and avoid their manifestation. It is better to mark on the sketch areas for furniture placement and other places where for some reason the circuit with the coolant should not pass.
The entire area that must be warmed is divided into sections of 15 sq. m each. At any site, the installation step of the pipeline is 10 cm. A common mistake is that people do not think in time which wall is best to install the collector, or they bring it too close to some heating circuits, moving it away from others. Choose the right heat source that connects to the heated floor.
Comfortable life is ensured at a coolant temperature of 40 to 45 degrees, which allows you to warm the floor to 26-30 degrees. Such heating is provided by condensing boilers, while other heating devices are not capable of heating water to less than 60 degrees.
Never place a thermal insulation layer on top of a heated floor and do not use carpets in the room, because these solutions will only worsen the quality of heating. Remember that polystyrene thermal insulation is dense, and it is not able to correct the unevenness of the rough screed, so from the first steps you need to do everything as accurately as possible. As for the thickness of polystyrene, contrary to the recommendations of most manufacturers, it is not necessary to maintain 10 cm (as a rule, 8 cm is enough even on the first floors).
You should not just lay a reflective film on top of the thermal insulation layer (this is a mistake), but it should be laid out evenly and wrapped around the edges of the polystyrene. The lower material itself should be pressed more tightly against the walls through the damper tape. Do not connect the parts with tape, as they are intended for completely different purposes. This may be harmful to your health.
It is better to coat the edges of the blocks with glue. Another mistake that is often encountered in the work of non-professionals and “shabashniks” is different distances of pipes from the walls. Real craftsmen make it at least 100 mm and uniform in all rooms.
If it is necessary not only to lay pipes, but also to organize the rotation of the pipeline, it is necessary to bend the metal-plastic structure manually (and not using springs and other auxiliary tools). Please note that the reinforcing mesh should not touch the surface of the pipes, as this is considered a gross mistake. The circuits undergoing thermal compression and expansion will constantly push the network, and it will soon become deformed and fail.
According to experts, in the coldest parts of the room it is necessary to tighten the pitch of the “snake” to 0.1 m. First of all, this is done when laying heated floors near the outer walls. Do not try to heat more than 40 square meters of floor with one circuit. It is also worth organizing separate circuits for neighboring rooms with different temperature conditions. Installation metal-plastic pipes under a screed is preferable to installing a pipeline made of other materials. The temperature of the coolant should increase systematically to reach the level you require 70-72 hours after connection.
The best point for installing the pump is the return pipe located immediately in front of the boiler. Most often, expansion tanks are installed in the highest section of the circuit, however, closed membrane systems can be made in any other way. If you are powering your gas boiler from the main pipeline rather than from cylinders, you should obtain permission from the local authorities. Only specially trained personnel working in licensed organizations should be involved in the work.
Loops made from a single pipe with a cross-section of 1.6, 1.7 or 2 cm have a minimal risk of leaks at the joints.
According to current standards, the average temperature of the floors of residential premises is 26 degrees, and in those places where people visit periodically and a special thermal regime is required, it is 31 degrees. The highest permissible difference in heating of individual parts of the floor and coverings in different rooms is 10 degrees.
In order for the thermal output to be optimal and not force the system to operate excessively, it is necessary to carefully level the floor.
Deviations from the plane of more than 5 mm are not allowed. Their presence leads to overfilling of the circuits with air and unstable, inefficient heating operation. The functions of vapor and waterproofing are often performed by polyethylene film, and its minimum thickness is 0.02 cm, otherwise it will not be possible to guarantee complete protection of the insulation from dampness.
The film should be laid with an overlap of up to 100 mm, and its boundaries are held in place by adhesive tape, which covers the intersections of the floor and walls. When all the lower layers have been laid and even the pipes themselves have been installed, they need to be crimped differently depending on the material. Thus, metal-plastic structures must be subjected to an internal pressure of 6 bar for 24 hours. Before this, the circuits are filled 100% with water, and air is completely released through the drain taps.
There is another option: pour in coolant, bring its temperature to 80 degrees, keep it there for 30 minutes, after which, maintaining the pressure test, lay a concrete screed.
If the pipeline is made of cross-linked polyethylene, reducing the pressure, you will need to add water, and then repeat the test after 30 minutes. Then they wait 90 minutes, restore the previous pressure and leave the heating circuits alone for 24 hours. At the end of this pause the pressure drop should be a maximum of 1.5 bar.
After installing and checking all pipeline parts and additional components, photograph their location and write a description with reference to landmarks. Subsequently, if you need to repair a heated floor, such information will greatly simplify and speed up the work.
When you need to heat a very small area (the area around a sofa, armchair, table and other furniture, for example), flexible rolls with built-in plastic tubes are preferable. The technology allows cutting off the required part of the roll, bending it at any angle - the main thing is that the channels for the passage of liquid remain intact.
Compliance with these points will allow you to achieve complete success in installing a heated floor and enjoy its stable operation for several decades.
To learn how to make a water heated floor with your own hands, see the following video.