One can often hear the opinion that frame houses- one of the simplest, most rational and inexpensive types of building structures. Based on this idea, many developers choose frame technologies for construction, thinking about savings and even the possibility of building a house on their own. Unfortunately, the idea of simplicity and low cost of frame technologies applies only to those that do not correspond to any building regulations and the rules of buildings that are erected by guest workers and inexperienced DIY enthusiasts. However, the same can be said about building log houses from wood with your own hands.
Frame technologies really have many advantages, but only in cases where the house is being built experienced builders from industrially produced components for frame house construction. An inexperienced or illiterate builder, working with frame technology, can make many more mistakes than when building a house from solid wood or stone materials. Where, when building a house from massive wall materials, only a few technological operations are required, frame technologies will require a much larger number of technological “passes”. With a larger number of operations, the risk of making mistakes, non-compliance with technology and improper use of materials increases significantly. Therefore, frame houses built without a project and the involvement of qualified specialists “at random” or on trust in guest workers may be short-lived and will soon require overhaul due to unsatisfactory consumer qualities (freezing, wet insulation, high heating costs, rotting structural elements, destruction of both individual elements and the entire structure as a whole). Unfortunately, in Russia the list of regulatory construction documentation for design and construction is significantly limited frame houses. Currently, the 2002 set of rules SP 31-105-2002 “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-apartment residential buildings with wooden frame”, developed from the outdated 1998 National Housing Code of Canada.
In this article we will provide brief overview main mistakes and violations of frame house construction technology.
Construction without a project.
This is a universal “general” mistake when choosing any construction technology. However, it is in frame technology the cost of mistakes can be especially high and lead to cost overruns instead of savings, both due to the use of an excess amount of material (frame made of large-section timber) and the need for repairs due to insufficient sections of beams, a rare step of their installation, destruction of structural elements due to for unaccounted loads, incorrectly selected connection methods in nodes and fastening materials, biological destruction of wood due to impaired steam and moisture removal.
Wood construction " natural humidity».
Almost nowhere in civilized countries are houses built from raw wood, just as before in Rus' they never built houses from freshly cut tree trunks. SP 31-105-2002 clause 4.3.1 states: « Load-bearing structures(frame elements) of houses of this system are made from softwood lumber, dried and protected from moisture during storage.” Raw wood is only a semi-finished product for the production of building materials. In Russia, sellers and suppliers delicately call raw lumber wood of “natural moisture.” Let us remind you that a freshly cut tree has a humidity of 50-100%. If the wood was rafted on water, then the humidity is 100% or more (the amount of water exceeds the amount of dry matter). “Natural moisture” usually means that the wood has dried out slightly during processing and transportation, and it contains between 30 and 80% moisture. When drying in the open air, the amount of moisture is reduced to 15-20%. Normal equilibrium moisture content of dried industrially wood in contact with the atmosphere will have a moisture content of 11-12%. When drying wet wood, the length of lumber is reduced by 3-7%, and the volume of wood by 11-17%. The use of “natural moisture” wood for the construction of frame houses leads to uncontrolled shrinkage of the wood, which changes linear dimensions structural elements, can lead to deformation, cracking and rupture of wood with destruction of fastening elements. When a wooden frame dries out, numerous cracks and gaps open up, significantly increasing the thermal conductivity of the walls of the frame house, tearing the insulating materials, preventing the penetration of moisture. When wood shrinks, its density increases, which leads to better conductivity of vibrations and sounds.
Construction from lumber without preliminary antiseptic treatment.
Even in the most correctly designed frame house, a certain amount of condensation is inevitable on the media sections, of which there is much more in frame houses than in buildings made of solid materials. A moistened tree containing polysaccharides in its structure is an excellent nutrient medium For various forms microflora and microfauna, representatives of which are capable of destroying the structure of a tree in a short period of time. SP 31-105-2002 (clause 4.3.2) states that all wooden elements located closer than 25 cm from ground level and all wooden elements not made of dry wood are subject to antiseptic treatment.
Incorrect use of materials.
In classical frame technology, the corner posts of the frame should not be made of timber or three boards knocked together closely - in this case, increased heat loss through the “cold corners” is ensured. Correct " warm corner» is assembled from three vertical posts located in mutually perpendicular planes.
Materials that can bear loads are used to cover the frame. For example, OSB must be structural and intended specifically for outdoor use.
Insulation of vertical frame walls is permissible only with rigid insulation boards. Due to shrinkage and sliding over time, fill-in and roll insulation can only be used on horizontal surfaces or in roofs with a slope of up to 1:5. When using economical versions of low-density insulation slabs, it is recommended to secure each row of slabs with spacers between the slabs to prevent slipping. This solution makes the structure more expensive and increases the thermal conductivity of the wall, so it is more profitable to use high-quality, more expensive insulation of higher density. The size of the openings between the frame posts should not exceed cross dimension insulation slabs - 60 cm. It is even better if the size of the opening is reduced to 59 cm in order to eliminate gaps between the racks and insulation slabs. You cannot fill the walls with scraps of insulation - there will be many gaps.Incorrect fastening of materials.
Black self-tapping screws can only be used for fastening sheet materials. The use of black self-tapping screws in a load-bearing frame, especially in a frame made of damp wood, can lead to the rupture of these unreliable fasteners that have low shear strength.
In all cases of assembling the load-bearing elements of the frame, galvanized nails or chrome-plated or brass-plated screws with a minimum diameter of 5 mm are used. Use of perforated steel fasteners without ligation wooden elements do not always guarantee the design strength of the frame.
Fastening elements of beams and other elements of the load-bearing frame must not be attached to OSB boards, especially with nails.
When nailing sheet elements with nails or screwing them with self-tapping screws, it is unacceptable to recess the cap or head deeper than the plane of the surface of the material. From the point of view of structural strength, the deepening of the head or cap by half the thickness of the material is considered a missing fastening element and must be duplicated with a correctly installed screw or nail.
Minimum distance from the edge of the covering material to the cap or head of the fastener is 10 mm.
Since 2012, the International building code for residential buildings (International building code, paragraph 2308.12.8) requires to prevent shifting during earthquakes, wind loads, etc. secure the frame of all newly erected frame buildings to the foundation anchor bolts through pressure plates measuring at least 7.6 by 7.6 mm with a steel plate thickness of at least 5.8 mm. The minimum diameter of bolts or anchors is 12 mm.
Construction of frame houses using “innovative” technologies.
The most common technology in the world frame construction provides for the sequential assembly of “platforms” - floors with floors, followed by the assembly of walls on them and their installation in a vertical position. In this case, it is convenient for builders to move along a continuous surface, it is convenient to work with materials, any deviations from the design position can be eliminated before the construction of walls begins, and the floors themselves rest securely on the underlying structures. For some reason, domestic builders are trying to invent their own options for building a frame house with assembling walls “on site”, mixing the technology of building a frame house with the technology of half-timbering or “posts and beams” with the installation of floors last, which is fraught with the need for inserting or “hanging” floor beams, the need to move on temporary flooring, with a high probability of injury when falling from a height.
Errors in working with floor beams of a frame house.
Most mistakes are made with the fastening of beams. It is best to rest the beams on the top frame load-bearing walls, for runs. It is prohibited to reduce the cross-section of the beam by cutting down the cutout for joining with the trim. If it is necessary to connect the floor beam with the strapping beam or beam purlin, it must be secured through a backing support bar with nails, or using steel beam supports. The steel beam support must have a height equal to the height of the beam and be fastened with nails through all mounting holes. Fastening beams using smaller supports, not punching through all fastening holes, fastening with black self-tapping screws, fastening only with nails without a support bar are mistakes.
The most common spacing of floor beams in the world practice of frame house construction is from 30 to 40 cm. This spacing of beams allows you to obtain strong floors that do not sag under impact loads. The installation of floors with a pitch of more than 60 cm is generally not recommended. The minimum thickness of sheet materials for flooring on floor beams is 16 mm for a beam spacing of 40 cm.
Often beams-purlins that work in bending are assembled from boards flat, rather than installing them on an edge.
The load-bearing capacity of the floors increases if the covering sheet material of the subfloors is additionally glued to the floor beams.
The load-bearing capacity of frame floors can be increased due to rigid transverse connections of the beams. Such connections are installed in increments of 120 cm and can serve as support for internal non-load-bearing partitions (through the subfloor). Also, transverse struts serve as an obstacle to the spread of flame during a fire.
How to properly drill holes in floor beams:
I-beams:
Composite I-beams can only be cut or drilled in certain locations per the manufacturer's specifications. The upper and lower elements of I-beams must not be disturbed. No more than 3 holes are allowed per beam. One hole with a diameter of up to 40 mm can be drilled in any part of the I-beam with the exception of the support parts. I-beams glued Wood-OSB-Wood are designated “Top”. At self-production beams based on OSB, the direction of the force axis of the material should be taken into account.
Floor beams made of sawn wood:
Errors in working with the cladding of a frame house.
For foreign building codes and the recommendations of the American Engineered Wood Association (APA), the frame can be sheathed with OSB boards both vertically and horizontally. However, if the OSB board is sewn along the frame posts, then the force axis (indicated on the OSB panel by arrows and the inscription Strength axis) will be parallel to the posts. This arrangement of the plates is useful only for strengthening weak frame struts that work in compression without significant lateral and tangential loads (which is almost unrealistic in real operating conditions). If OSB boards are sewn perpendicular to the racks, they strengthen the building frame to absorb tangential and lateral loads that arise when exposed to wind and base movements due to soil movement. Particularly relevant is horizontal cladding with OSB panels in frames with missing slopes, to impart the required structural rigidity. If OSB sheets are laid across the racks, then the force axis will be perpendicular to them, and the OSB sheets will withstand greater compressive and tensile loads. So, for example, in the domestic SP 31-105-2002. "Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with a wooden frame" provides (Table 10-4) the recommended parameters for the minimum thickness of plywood for cladding the frame: if the plywood fibers are parallel to the frame posts at a pitch of 60 cm, then minimum thickness plywood is 11 mm. If the plywood fibers are placed perpendicular to the posts, then thinner sheets with a thickness of 8 mm can be used. Therefore, it is preferable to sew OSB sheets with the long side not along, but across the racks or rafters. For the outer cladding of one-story frame houses, OSB 9 mm thick can be used. But when building two-story houses and any houses in zones strong winds The minimum thickness of OSB for external cladding is 12 mm. If a frame house is sheathed with soft fiber boards of the Isoplat type, then the frame structure must have jibs that provide lateral rigidity to the structure.
Gaps of 2-3 mm should be left between all sheet sheathing materials for thermal expansion. If this is not done, the sheets will “swell” as they expand.
Joining of sheathing sheets is carried out only on racks and cross members. The sheets are sewn “staggered” to ensure greater strength of the load-bearing frame structure using chain ligation. The outer sheathing should connect the wall frame with the lower and upper trim.
« Pies" of the floors of the walls and roof of the frame house.
The main mistake in the design of frame pies for floors, walls and roofs is the possibility of the insulation getting wet from moisture penetrating inside. General rule building walls in heated rooms - the vapor permeability of materials should increase from inside to outside. Even in the floor, where they often do the opposite: a vapor barrier is laid on the ground side, and a vapor-permeable membrane on the room side.
Any insulated frame house pie must have a continuous layer of vapor barrier from the inside. “Continuous layer” really means that the vapor barrier should not have any defects: the sheets must be glued together with an overlap along the entire protected contour, without exceptions. For example, almost all builders, at the stage of assembling the frame, forget to lay a vapor barrier under the junction of internal partitions and external walls according to the standard diagrams for arranging junctions in paragraph 7.2.12 of SP 31-105-2002.
Additionally, all gaps between the sheet materials of the sheathing in wet areas and on the roof must be glued with waterproofing materials to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulated “pies”.
In addition to preventing moisture from entering the insulated cake, it is necessary to ensure that moisture is removed: from the outside frame wall should either be covered with OSB boards, which is a “smart” vapor-permeable material that can increase vapor permeability when the environment is humidified, or protected by a semi-permeable membrane that ensures the removal of moisture from the insulation. Cheap single-layer membranes have unsatisfactory vapor permeability and require an air gap between the insulation and the membrane. Also, cheap single-layer membranes provide poor protection against moisture penetration from the outside. It is preferable to use expensive superdiffusion membranes, which have really good vapor permeability and can be mounted directly over the insulation.
Ventilation of a frame house.
Figuratively speaking, the interior space of a properly built frame house is identical to the interior space of a thermos: heat loss through the walls is very small, and moisture transfer through the walls is most often practically absent (but can persist during use). Accordingly, it should be vented outside. Without a thoughtful one, this becomes impossible. In a frame house, ventilation valves must be installed in each room, or the windows must have a micro-ventilation mode or built-in slot ventilation valves. Should be installed in the kitchen and bathroom exhaust ventilation. Abroad frame houses for permanent residence Almost no buildings are built without supply and exhaust ventilation with a recovery system.
At the end of the article, we present illustrations of the widespread “folk” construction of a frame house, in which, upon closer examination, there is not a single correctly executed element.
The typical mistakes that we described in the article are easily preventable. Before you start building your first frame house or hiring builders, study in detail the albeit slightly outdated, but only set of rules available in Russian frame house construction SP 31-105-2002. By paying attention to all the details and subtleties of creating a power frame of a building and ensuring the durability of its operation, you can avoid costly mistakes when building or ordering your frame house.
The floor and ceiling in a frame house are horizontal surfaces, limiting and enclosing its internal volume. They are mounted on floors that are part of the load-bearing frame of the house. And in this sense, the importance of overlaps is difficult to overestimate. In addition to the fact that they close the vertical walls on themselves, forming a single strong spatial structure, the ceilings provide rigidity to the floor and ceiling, as well as thermal insulation and noise protection of the entire house.
Both the structure of the floors and the materials used for them depend on their place and purpose in the house. In a frame house, there are three types of floors: floor, ceiling (attic) and interfloor.
The first task is to provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the floor. Ceilings support only the ceiling finishing and a layer of insulation, sometimes very impressive.
The interfloor ceiling performs the functions of both floor and ceiling, being the carrier of the floor of the upper floor and the ceiling of the lower floor.
The most unpleasant load on the structure in question is vertical. Therefore, the base of the floor is calculated based on the need to minimize vertical deflections.
In a frame house, the floors in the vast majority of cases are made of coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce or larch. The basis is the sexual lags or ceiling beams. It is they who take on all the loads of the floor, then transferring them to the upper or lower trim, as well as to interior walls or foundation.
Floor beams can be processed with two or four edges round wood, timber or edge-mounted boards with a thickness of at least 80 mm. It is acceptable to replace thick boards with paired thinner ones, for example, 50 mm thick. The main thing is to firmly and reliably “sew” them together. A more complex, but advantageous option in terms of rigidity/price is a device made from box-shaped boards or I-beams.
The standard size of load-bearing beams is determined depending on the span, load and permissible deflection. This value is for reference, and if necessary, the corresponding tables can be easily found on the Internet. The typical design of frame houses makes it possible to record the average load values, from which the cross-section of the support beams can be determined.
Thus, the load on the floors consists of a constant component - their own mass, as well as variable loads that appear during the operation of the house. The dead weight of one square meter of interfloor and floor coverings of a frame house depends on their design, the insulation and sound insulation used and is usually 210-230 kg.
The dead weight of attic floors is higher, since more insulating materials are used here. It can range from 260 to 300 kg. However, variable loads on attic floors are less and, as a rule, do not exceed 100 kg per square meter, whereas for interfloor ceilings this figure is twice as high.
In order to calculate the total load on the floor, it is necessary to add the constant and variable components. Taking into account the span length of the beams and their profile, we find the cross-sectional area using the table. The distance between the beams is determined in a similar way, which is usually from 0.5 to 1 m.
The floor beams are installed on the frame and secured either with metal corners or cut directly into the frame beam (board). For interfloor and attic floors there is a requirement: beams must be installed only above the vertical posts of the wall frame.
If in this case the pitch of the floor beams does not coincide with the calculated one, the latter must be reduced to a value that is a multiple of the pitch of the frame racks.
Flooring and filing
After installing and securing the beams, a flooring (top) and a lining (bottom) are installed on them. Interfloor ceiling 
requires a binder that supports only its own weight, decorative ceiling elements, as well as low weight of soundproofing material. Therefore, the requirements for bearing capacity minimal. Almost any sheet material can be used as such a backing in a frame house, for example, ceiling plasterboard, which also significantly increases the fire resistance of the building.
The attic and floor lining must support a significantly greater weight of insulation and other elements of the floor structure. Therefore, it is made from tongue-and-groove boards 30 mm thick.
Another option is a rewind device. In the lower part of the floor beams, so-called cranial bars are packed on the sides along their entire length. Typically, a rail with a cross section of 30x50 mm is used for this purpose. And roll-over shields are already laid on them: boards or any sheet material that can withstand the weight of the insulator, for example, plywood. In this case, the entire load from the weight of the internal elements of the floor falls on the roll. And the only thing left to do is support the weight of the ceiling trim.
In a frame house, there are two types of flooring: running and rough. Walking flooring is used in the attic to allow movement around it. In addition, the running flooring is a finished plank floor. Both types are arranged by fastening boards either directly to beams (floor joists) or through elastic pads.
But they differ in the quality of installation: the running floor boards are held together, while the subfloor boards are nailed with a gap necessary for the movement of air from reverse side finished floor. In attics that are not planned to be used, you can do without a top flooring. Instead, so-called passage boards are laid along the emergency passage route.
"Stuffing" of the ceiling
Floors of any type have a similar structure. Glassine, roofing felt, or simply plastic film are placed on the roll or directly on the hem. Insulating material is poured or laid on top. Naturally, bulk insulation materials are poured, such as expanded clay, furnace slag, perlite, etc. Sheet or roll insulation materials are laid: polystyrene foam, glass wool, etc.
Please note that only floor and attic floors need to be insulated, and interior floors are only soundproofed with acoustic mineral wool. Required quantity insulation is determined from tables depending on its type and average winter air temperature.
Helpful advice: after pouring insulation into the attic floor, it is recommended to pour sand-cement or lime mortar. This event will significantly slow down the destruction of the insulation and extend its service life.
Ensuring optimal operating conditions
Considering the importance of floors for ensuring the normal functioning of a frame house, it is necessary to create proper conditions for them to maintain strength characteristics throughout the entire life of the house. And the most important of external factors providing negative impact on wooden structures ceiling, is moisture.
Any overlap to a greater or lesser extent prevents the free movement of air containing water vapor. And under certain conditions (temperature changes, air humidity) wooden parts moisture condenses in the ceiling. In the absence of sufficient air movement, the wood remains wet for a long time, which is fraught with the following consequences.
Firstly, the tree absorbs moisture and swells, changing its linear dimensions. And this, in turn, creates increased stress in the structure. Several cycles of “swelling - drying” can lead to a loss of strength of the joints of the floor parts, which will make their operation difficult, if not impossible.
Secondly, wet cellulose is a very good environment for mold growth, which can destroy floor beams in 2-3 years. The problem of humidity is acute for floors, to a much lesser extent for attic floors, and is generally not relevant for interior floors.
Therefore, to ensure normal air circulation in the basement, it is recommended to install ventilation ducts or wells.
Wooden floors in rooms with high humidity(bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.). Here it is advisable to supplement the ceilings with a waterproofing layer. But it’s better to refuse the bottom hem, limiting yourself to one roll. On the one hand, this will improve air exchange, on the other hand, it will allow you to control the condition of the ceiling parts.
As you may have noticed, it is not so difficult to arrange a ceiling in a frame house. The main thing is to do everything right. And then you will not remember its existence while you live in the house.
After exterior walls of a frame house assembled, raised and, most importantly, leveled, you can move on to the interfloor floors. If you have one-story house, the ceiling will be called “attic” and will be the last in the structure of the house. We will also look at the types of roofs characteristic of frame houses and their design.
Frame house floors
Main task frame house floors- this is not only the creation of the floor of the second floor and the ceiling of the first, but also strengthening the structure of the house. Floor beams are selected for strength and rigidity. Strength requirements depend on the load the beams must bear. The rigidity, in turn, should be such as to minimize the possibility of cracks in the ceiling finish due to temporary loads and, more importantly, to reduce unpleasant vibration of the floor from moving loads.
Beams frame house floors made, as a rule, from boards 38 mm thick and width (beam height) 140, 184, 235 or 286 mm. The size (height) depends on the load, span, distance between beams, species and type of wood, as well as on the permissible deformation. The distance between beams is usually 400 mm (16 in), although under higher loads or conditions limited space Beams of reduced height can be placed at a distance of 300 mm (12 in) from each other. If the beam board has a slight curvature in the plane, it should be installed with the curved side up. Once the decking and finished floor are installed, the curvature of the beam is usually leveled out. The figure below shows the structure of a beam floor.
If you need to make an opening in the ceiling for a staircase or fireplace chimney.
Preparation for the floors is done by sheathing panels made of plywood, OSB plywood, and sheathing with boards no more than 184 mm wide in quarter or tongue and groove. Plywood panels are installed so that the surface fibers are directed perpendicular to the floor beams. If the plywood preparation is made together with a floor underlay, then the side edges of the panels should be supported by blocking with 38 x 38 mm (2 x 2 in) blocks between the floor beams. There is no need to support if the edges of the panels are joined into a tongue and groove.
Roof of a frame house
The simplest roof of a frame house for construction directly on the site, a gable gable roof is used (option A). All rafters are cut to the same length with the same details, and installation is not difficult. When installing an attic living space, it is important to pay attention to insulation and correct installation air insulation and vapor barrier. These are the key pieces of the framing pie.
What is the roof frame made of?
Technology for constructing the roof of a frame house
Installation of a ridge beam frame house roofs begins with attaching two vertical support posts to the top frame of the frame house. The racks are assembled from boards and installed strictly level in order to secure the intermediate racks (ridge supports). In the upper floor, the beams on which they rest must be specially reinforced. The ridge beam is also assembled from boards to enhance its longitudinal strength. The boards are fastened together with metal plates.
The rafter legs are mounted on the ridge and on the edges of the top trim metal corners. In order to reduce the unsupported span of the rafters, intermediate supporting walls are made from them.
All rafters are cut strictly according to the template with the most accurate cutting angle at the junction with the ridge beam and the edges bottom trim. All uneven rafters are laid with the unevenness facing up. For roof overhangs, boards are used just above the rafters in order to make lathing along the rafters and ultimately obtain a flat surface on which checkerboard pattern OSB plywood sheets (thickness 12.5 mm) are laid. Roofing material can be mounted on the resulting structure.
Greetings to all readers of the blog, Sergey Menkov is in touch with you.
In this article I will continue to describe the construction of my house, and now I will tell you how I made the floors for my house.
I have three floors, this is the lower floor - the floor of the first floor, the interfloor floor, and the attic floor in the attic.
Brief outline of the article:
- Types of floors
- Floors of frame buildings
- Floor covering
- Ceiling lining
- Insulation
- Soundproofing
- Construction order
The ceiling in a frame house must have certain properties. The most important thing is to have sufficient deflection strength of the beams. I will tell you later how to calculate the size and pitch of beams depending on the width of the span to be covered, but for now let’s go through a little theory.
Types of floors
For private housing construction they are used various types floors, the most common are wooden beam floor, and using concrete floor slabs.
Without beam monolithic ceiling in case of independent house construction it is used less frequently, since it is more labor-intensive in execution, with a large number preparatory work.
I will not consider them all in this article, but will talk about how frame floors are arranged; my house is frame
Floors of frame buildings
Frame floor beams must have a number of properties; I will list the main ones that you should rely on when designing a frame house:
- Safety margin for deflection - so as not to get a trampoline instead of a floor, and it won’t simply fall into the underground.
- Resistance to biological effects is touches the bottom floor, it is close to the ground, and if rotting happens, the weak wood will quickly collapse.
- Thermal insulation properties - this determines how warm the house will be. This is especially true for the upper ceiling, it is through it that the large number warmth from home.
- Sound insulation is a property characteristic of interfloor slabs. Complete sound insulation is very difficult to achieve. I neglected this, and will limit myself to only partial, with laying soundproofing slabs, or backfilling with some kind of bulk material.
- Ease of construction is also very important; as a rule, frame houses are erected by one or two people during self-construction, so the technology should be feasible. Below I’ll tell you how I made the floors for my house, all by hand, no cranes, lifts or other devices.
In order to start calculations, you will need to stock up on data on the interaxial distance between the walls on which the beams will rest.
The material for the beams was larch; it is a very durable tree, resistant to various influences, we have a large quantity of it in stock, and it is cheaper than pine.
Of course, there are also disadvantages, such as the tendency to torsion and the heavy weight of the boards. But they are easily offset by the positive qualities described above.
Floor covering
The frame floor beams are covered with decking. They use different types of subfloors, I used a magpie board and 10 mm plywood on top of it, and in the kitchen 18 mm plywood, it so happened that I miscalculated the quantity of tens and ordered a little less than necessary.
A quarter of the house was left unprotected by plywood. And then a friend of mine offered me 18 plywood right into my hand for half the price (it came out at the price of tens). I quickly bought ten sheets from him, the problem disappeared by itself, and I will cover the most popular rooms in the house with thicker plywood, this will only improve the quality of the floor.
If the pitch of the beams is small, then you can use plywood or OSB sheets as a rough flooring; this is a common practice; I did not do this, so I cannot talk about it in detail. If anyone wants to do this, then google it, everything will be found)
Ceiling lining
My ceiling has not been hemmed yet, for the first time I plan to sheathe it with boards or gypsum plasterboard sheets over the sheathing. There, under the plasterboard, I will place the electrical wiring leading to the lighting.
To be honest, I have not yet decided how I will make the ceiling, so the frame interfloor ceiling is still in question. I depicted the option in the picture below. Think.
This is where my mistake lies; it was necessary to think in advance about insulating these places. Now you will have to work hard to blow out these places efficiently. I want to hire an installation and blow foam into this distance to a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm, I think this will be enough.
When using mineral wool at the junction of walls, it is recommended to lay insulation 60 cm from the edge of the wall, approximately as in this picture.
My attic is insulated with sawdust, the layer thickness is still 25 cm, when this layer dries completely, I will gradually increase it to 40-50 cm. Sawdust as an insulation material is a very good material, and most importantly, it is practically free. The sawmills themselves call and ask where to unload.
I did not use cotton wool in the attic for reasons of steam regulation in the house. The sawdust will easily release some of the steam to the street, without losing its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, there is no vapor barrier in the house on the second floor ceiling.
Soundproofing
Used as sound insulation for floors various materials, let's look at the main ones:
- Mineral wool - these include all types mineral wool used for sound insulation. It is recommended to use a denser one, although sound waves are well damped by light glass wool. Still, only an integrated approach will save you from impact noise.
- Bulk - various backfills, for example, ecowool, sawdust, sand, expanded clay and other materials with soundproofing characteristics.
- Sheet materials in the form of vibration-insulating sheets, special floor coverings for finishing, cork coverings. They are more often used in complex sound insulation methods.
- Integrated approach to eliminate noise consists of a combination of various solutions, for example, the use of layers of different density and strength.
Construction order
Well, let's finish with the theory, now I'll tell you how I made my ceilings.
The lower and interfloor ceilings in a frame house are almost identical in construction technology. The only thing is that when working on the second floor you should take precautions; falling from there is not very pleasant.
Well, I think it’s time to finish, I hope that after reading the article you will not have any questions about how to make a ceiling in a frame house. If you leave a comment, I will definitely answer.
And if anyone wants to add anything, don’t be shy!
PS.
And one more thing, we had a discussion with my wife, and she decided to try to take on a couple of blog columns. So maybe the blog will soon become a family blog!
Well, that’s all bye everyone, don’t forget to subscribe to updates, I’m off to bed….
Good afternoon, dear frame builders!
I didn’t find a similar topic by searching, so I decided to create it myself.
Often the question flashes on the forum, how to do, how to block the span some kind of length. Sometimes the questioner simply does not have enough experience, sometimes some kind of hint or fresh thought is enough for him, sometimes he needs help choosing from several options, sometimes he needs to do an educational program and warn the person against dangerous mistakes. All this is scattered on different topics, and finding a problem similar to yours is quite difficult.
Let's help each other here on roofing issues, then it will be possible in one place to look at some kind of knowledge base and ask your question about covering a frame house.
Minimum information to ask a question:
1) House plan.
2) Span dimensions
3) What will happen at the top - what is the load on the floor
4) What is the difficulty with this overlap, what would you like and why it doesn’t work out.I need help optimizing the flooring in a frame house.
Here is the main topic about my construction:
At this stage, the USP is done, I am drawing a frame design in SketchUp.Here's the layout:
So far the frame of the 1st floor has been pre-rendered:
The pitch of the studs is 500 (optimized for OSB, since the insulation is ecowool, inside there will be plasterboard along the horizontal lathing). Yes, and the pitch of 600 seems a bit too much to me for a 1.5-story building. I want it to be strong)
Racks external walls- 150x40, internal - 100x40. I plan to sheathe OSB, so no miters.Here is the design of a typical wall:
Maybe someone catches your eye, write.The plan shows that there is one problem area in the house - the living room, span 4900 mm. There is also an opening for the stairs in this room, size 1100x2350 mm.
Task: To make a ceiling for the first floor, taking into account that there will be a residential attic above, and there will be 40mm screeds on the floor.
Due to my limited experience in designing such structures, I was unable to solve this problem quickly. More precisely, it turned out, and most likely it will work, but I feel that this is not very best option with a huge waste of material:
In the sketch, red lines indicate the walls, blue lines indicate the beams, and the yellow square is the supporting pillar that holds the staircase landing and supports the ceiling.Beam spacing is 400 mm, beam size is 50x250.
This step and size (according to the calculator) is needed to cover a large span in the living room.
But it is redundant on other spans.
And, although the supply might not be superfluous, it is difficult to find logs of this size to cut 50x250 boards in such quantities (at least in our region). And I didn’t want to throw money away if I could do it cheaper and the result would be good.What exits do I see:
1) Reformat the entire floor, radically changing the direction of the beams, their sections and pitch, possibly adding additional load-bearing elements. Here I need your help, because I don’t have a good option in my head yet.
2) Change the pitch of the beams, adjusting it to the spans. Then the ends of the beams will not meet so beautifully in the middle of the house, they will overlap and burst apart with breeches.
3) Change the height of the beams. Then it is not clear how to make the floor on the second floor the same height. In principle, you can replace some of the beams with 200-th beams, and place a 50 mm thick board flat in the places of support in order to reach the same height as the 250-th beams. Then the breeches will be sewn up beautifully.
4) maybe there is another option?Thanks in advance to everyone who cares