How to power heated floors from central heating in an apartment. How to connect a heated floor to central heating Warm floor water law

“Heated floor” systems are rapidly gaining popularity among owners of private suburban housing and city apartments, and many of them have the question: “How to make a heated floor from heating.” This is not surprising - such a heat exchange scheme in the room is the most effective and economical - heated air from the floor is evenly heated rises up, creating an optimal comfortable temperature distribution without the formation of horizontal convection currents.

There are a lot of underfloor heating schemes - they can be, that is, with the laying of pipes for the circulation of liquid coolant, and electrical, in which they are used various schemes heating from power supply. Due to the fact that electricity cannot be called cheap, many homeowners turn to increased attention specifically for the “water” scheme. Moreover, the owners of city apartments are tempted to take advantage of the capabilities of the central heating circuit installed in the house, so in Internet search engines the following is always found in the top queries: “how to make a heated floor.”

Unfortunately, many articles on this topic begin with the fact that the reader is presented with the most rosy prospects, for example, “installing such a warm floor is not difficult and can easily be done on your own.” Is this true? Practice shows that the equipment of such a system will require considerable effort to overcome a variety of problems, both purely technological and administrative in nature.

The purpose of this publication is not so much step by step instructions on independent equipment of a water heated floor system from heating, as well as an overview of all the complex issues in the implementation of this project with options for their possible resolution. Having assessed the scale of the work, the nature of the upcoming difficulties and their own strengths, it is likely that some apartment owners will decide in favor of one that is much easier to install.

Administrative difficulties

First of all, you need to dwell on the fact that the equipment of such a “warm floor” with connection to central heating Administrative barriers may interfere.

The central heating system is calculated taking into account the power of the boiler room, the throughput of heating mains, the pipe distribution system in multi-storey buildings, quantity and total area heated apartments and many other factors. The insertion of additional heating circuits, especially those of considerable length, will certainly affect the overall parameters of the system. It’s good if the boiler room’s power and wiring capabilities make it possible to compensate for heat losses, but this does not always happen. Thus, residents of apartments connected to one riser may feel a decrease in the temperature of the heating radiators, which will lead to complaints about the work of utility workers.

Therefore, the installation of additional underfloor heating circuits requires mandatory approval from the organization providing heat supply to an apartment building, and it is not a fact that it will agree to this. Of course, there are always “smart guys” who can connect “pirate-style”, without notifying housing and communal services specialists, but sooner or later this is discovered and ends with the imposition of considerable penalties.

As a rule, permission can be given if the apartment is located at the very end of the heating circuit. For example, with a heat supply scheme from bottom to top, there should be no special problems for owners of apartments on the highest floor - the extraction of additional thermal energy will not in any way affect other residents of the house. Conversely, when top heat supply is used, the owners of an apartment on the first floor will have this advantage. But in both cases, the heat supply organization will most likely require the installation of an additional heat energy meter to individually calculate the payment for its consumption.


Managers or heat supply organizations can meet halfway even if the apartment heating system does not use a common coolant, but energy transfer carried out through a special device– heat exchanger. In this case, the “warm floor” circuit becomes autonomous to a certain extent, but a metering device for consumed heat will nevertheless still be required.


Only owners of apartments with an autonomous heating system, that is, those who have disconnected from the central network and installed their own gas or electric boiler and a closed circuit that is not connected to the outside, may not have such problems with permission to install a water-heated floor. This, of course, means that the installation of your own heat generator (boiler) and “autonomization” have already received appropriate approval in advance. But even in this case, one will have to face considerable difficulties, only now of a technological nature. This will be discussed below.

Possible solutions for laying “warm floor” pipes

If there are problems conciliatory there is no more character, then issues with the system for laying the “warm floor” circuits have to be resolved. Here you will have to deal with a lot of nuances - assessing the possibility of raising the floor level and additional load, purchasing high-quality components, creating reliable thermal insulation, choosing a laying scheme and technology for covering the floor over pipes. Let's talk about everything in order.

How much will the floor surface rise?

This factor should be taken into account in advance, even before the start of all subsequent work. The water “warm floor” system itself implies reliable thermal insulation of the base, so that expensive energy is not wasted simply on heating the floor slabs between floors.

For apartments located above heated rooms, a 30 mm layer of standard insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene) is considered sufficient. In the case when such heating is installed on the ground floor, under which there is a cold basement or basement, or soil, a layer of at least 50 mm, and sometimes up to 100 mm, will be required.


Installation of a “warm floor” always leads to a significant increase in the height of the covering

But that's not all. You should add a thickness of screed that will cover the pipes and be powerful battery thermal energy. That is, you need to add at least another 50 mm. Plus to this is the thickness of the finishing floor covering. The total will result in a general rise in surface level. Based on this result, you can assess whether this can be done in an apartment.

It is possible to do without a concrete screed, thereby reducing the height of the floor.


For this purpose, a system of laying pipes in heat-exchange metal plates is used, which are installed in ready-made wooden modules, slatted or joist structures, or in thermal insulation mats.


One of the options for placing plates is on slatted logs

In this case, heat transfer is certainly somewhat reduced, but this is an inevitable price to pay for saving space.

In any case, a certain rise in the surface level cannot be avoided. If the “warm floor” system is planned only in separate rooms, this will lead to the formation of steps in the apartment, which is not entirely convenient in everyday life– a similar factor must also be taken into account.

Thermal insulation mats

So, as already mentioned, laying “warm floor” pipes will require preliminary thermal insulation of the surface. Rolled foam polyethylene, even with foil, will clearly not be enough (with rare exceptions), and usually special mats are used for these purposes. They come in several types:

  • Flat polystyrene foam mats with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm with a foil coating and, ideally, with a laminating layer on which a marking grid is applied, making it easier to lay pipes according to the developed pattern.

To fix pipes to such mats, special clamps - “harpoons” are used, or, when pouring reinforced screed, the pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh using polymer clamps - “ties”. In addition, for convenience, special mounting rails can be used.


  • Expanded polystyrene profile mats with special bosses, the location and height of which allow the pipes to be securely fixed in a given position.

Particularly convenient are such mats with a laminated coating and a system of locks for mutual interfacing - they create a single surface that no longer requires additional waterproofing.

Such mats are made from high-density polystyrene foam (more than 40 kg/m³), which guarantees that they can withstand the loads both from the poured screed and those arising during operation. The standard dimensions of one such profile panel are 1.0 × 1.0 or 0.6 × 0.8 m. Thickness varies (without accounting boss heights) within 5 ÷ 50 mm, permissible pipe laying spacing is 50 mm or more (multiples of 50).

Such mats provide another advantage - their complex relief structure, along with the physical properties of polystyrene foam, provide excellent noise-absorbing effect.

Prices for mats for heated water floors

Mats for warm water floors

Which pipes are optimal for “warm floors”

Pipes in a “warm floor” system are installed with a view to a long period of use, during which their regular inspection will simply be impossible. That is why their choice should be treated with special care. What requirements should they meet:

  • Seamless pipes are unacceptable - they will not guarantee the safety of the circuit when the pressure in it increases.
  • For the same reason, any joints in the circuit should be avoided - this place is vulnerable to both blockages and leaks.
  • Pipes must have the necessary margin of safety - they are subject to load both from the coolant and external, from the weight of the screed, floor covering and dynamic loads. You should focus on a pressure resistance indicator of at least 8 ÷ 10 bar.
  • Pipes must have the highest performance corrosion resistance, resistance to the formation of scale deposits, chemical inertness. The “scourge” of pipelines is oxygen diffusion, and the optimal choice would be a material with a special protective layer against this process.
  • Not everyone may like the noise of water flowing through pipes. This means that the pipes must have an appropriate level of sound insulation.
  • Diameter - usually 16 or 20 mm pipes are used. An underestimation will lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance and a decrease in heat transfer, and excessively thick pipes will significantly increase the thickness of the screed and lead to significant heat loss in common system heating.
  • Pipes should be purchased in one solid piece for the circuit, the length of which, with a diameter of 16 mm, should not be more than 60 - 80 meters. If this value is exceeded, a “closed loop” effect may appear in the circuit, when the pressure created by the circulation pump cannot cope with the internal hydraulic resistance. If this length is not enough to cover the entire area of ​​the room, you will have to organize two or more separate circuits from one collector.

Which pipes are preferable for “warm floors”:



  • Metal-plastic pipes are great for underfloor heating systems, but with some caveats. Really high-quality material must be used, since there are frequent cases of rupture of the pipe body from excess pressure. The problem, in fact, is not at all the unreliability of the structure itself, but the fact that the building materials market is oversaturated with low-quality fakes that do not stand up to criticism. In pursuit of a low price, it is not difficult to get into a very unpleasant situation - something that is easily eliminated, for example, in a water supply system, can have catastrophic consequences when a low-quality pipe is located in the thickness of the floor.

Another note is that the aluminum layer, in general, although resistant to corrosion, nevertheless, over time, under the influence of oxygen, gradually loses its qualities, becoming brittle. This significantly reduces the service life of such pipes. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is best to choose a variety with a special oxygen barrier.


  • Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene have recently begun to hold the leading position in this area. A process of special polymer processing - “cross-linking” - creates additional three-dimensional intermolecular bonds, which ultimately gives excellent strength and flexibility of the pipe. The best pipes are marked RE-Xa, in which the degree of “cross-linking” reaches 80–90%. It’s even better if the “EVON” layer is included in the pipe structure - it almost completely blocks the possibility of oxygen diffusion.

In addition, some manufacturers reinforce PE-Ha pipes with a layer of overlap-welded aluminum, and such products become ideal for use in heating systems - they can withstand the most critical loads.


  • Recently, stainless steel corrugated pipes have begun to compete with polymer pipes. They have excellent flexibility, and the outer and inner layer of polyethylene coating makes them practically absolutely impenetrable.

Such pipes are produced in coils up to 50 meters, but have such a reliable fitting system that they can be extended even with the connections closed with a concrete screed.

Which styling “pattern” to choose

When drawing up installation schemes, one of two main methods with possible variations is usually used - “snail” or “snake”.


The “snail” or double “snake” schemes shown in the right figure are a little more difficult to install, but they provide more uniform heating of the floor surface, since the supply and return pipes are located in parallel friend to friend.

The pitch of laying the pipes can be different - it all depends on how insulated the room itself is and the effect expected from such a heating system. It is usually considered normal to place turns at a distance of 100 mm. You can create areas of increased heating by shortening this step, or, conversely, in those places where special heating is not required, significantly increase the distance.


Be that as it may, all ends of the circuits are reduced to one point - to the installation site of the distribution manifold, which will be discussed below.

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting “warm floor” circuits to an existing heating system

The apartment owner who believes that it is enough to simply embed the contours of the “warm floor” into the heating risers of the house - supply and return - is deeply mistaken. This approach is simply impossible based on a number of considerations:

  • Water in narrow and long circuits will never begin to circulate independently - it will choose the path of least hydraulic resistance. Thus it becomes mandatory element circulation pump
  • In order to ensure the movement of coolant with effective heat transfer, a pressure equalization device in the system is necessary, which will prevent stagnation or, conversely, the appearance of water hammer effects.
  • A drainage system is required accumulating in the air system.
  • The coolant in the central system is not always clean, and in order to prevent clogging of the “warm floor” circuits, it is necessary to install filters.
  • One of the main reasons is the need to necessarily reduce the temperature of the coolant. The water in central heating pipes can be heated to very high limits, sometimes reaching even 80 degrees, which absolutely not applicable for a "warm floor" system. Overheating of the surface negative will affect the integrity of the screed and thermal insulation layer and the condition of the final floor covering. In addition, too high a surface temperature will create absolutely not comfortable the situation in the apartment. Practice shows that optimal value The temperature for heating the coolant for a heated floor is 35 - 40°, and it is not recommended to exceed it. This means that a special mixing unit is needed that will mix water from the supply and return to achieve the required level its heating.

  • Of course, all this requires the installation of visual monitoring devices and parameter adjustment, manual or automatic.
  • And finally, not a single heat supply organization will give permission for any connection unless all the rules for the safe operation of the system are observed, its efficiency in terms of thermal energy consumption, if it at least to some extent interferes with the normal operation of central heating the entire building.

Amateur activity in such matters is not encouraged - there are several basic connection diagrams, which are developed on the basis of carefully carried out thermal and hydraulic calculations.

For example, when connecting “warm floor” collectors at the final section of the riser (the first or last floor, as discussed earlier), the diagram shown in the figure is usually used. It provides:


  • Inlet valve with a mandatory filter - “dirt trap” (1).
  • Valve on the return pipe of the circuit with check valve (2).
  • Three-way tap – mixer (3) with manual or servo-driven control.

If control is carried out in automatic mode, then it is connected to a temperature sensor - the control signal is shown in the diagram with a green dotted line.


  • Circulation (4) with a capacity corresponding to the total length of the circuits connected to the collectors.
  • To equalize the required pressure difference in the supply and return pipes, a bypass valve (5) is installed.
  • The “combs” of both collectors must have air vents(6) and drain valves (7) to drain the coolant for maintenance or repair work.

In the case where the underfloor heating system cuts directly into the coolant supply pipes (permission for this has been obtained, or in the conditions of an autonomous home heating network), the diagrams should be slightly different:


Recommended schemes for connecting “warm floors” to heating risers
  • On the diagram "A" shows a connection using a two-way valve (2) connected to a thermostat. The faucet regulates only the total flow of water, without mixing, increasing or decreasing the pressure and, therefore, the rate of heat exchange. General adjustment is carried out by balancing valves (3 and 4). Pressure equalization is carried out by the bypass valve (8).
  • Scheme "b" descending from the first, and differs only in the presence of a direct bypass (jumper) between the collectors (8) with a valve designed to operate when the permissible pressure in the supply pipe is exceeded.
  • In the picture "V" a pipe connection unit with a three-way valve (11) installed on the return line is shown, redirecting the flow of cooled liquid to the supply line. This scheme is one of the simplest, but at the same time it is quite reliable.
  • Similar to it, but more advanced and easier to adjust - circuit "G" . Here, a three-way mixer (9) is installed on the supply pipe, providing direct mixing of hot and chilled water before entering the circulation pump (1).
  • The most perfect scheme is considered "d" with a four-way valve mixer, with manual adjustment, or equipped with a servo drive connected to a thermostat unit.

This adjustment gives the most accurate adjustment indicators, both for the temperature of the coolant and for the liquid in the “warm floor” circuits.

  • And finally, in the picture "e" The previously mentioned diagram of connecting a “warm floor” to a central heating system through a heat exchanger (14) is shown. Feature– mandatory presence of its own safety group (12), including its own control pressure gauge, overpressure valve and air vent, as well as installation of an expansion tank of a membrane operating principle (13), which will compensate for inevitable pressure drops.

To ensure the necessary replenishment of the coolant, a jumper (15) with a dirt filter, a shut-off valve and a check valve can be installed.

If several “warm floor” circuits are connected to the collectors in parallel, another problem arises - uneven flow of coolant in them. Sometimes this even ends in hydrostatic “locking” - the liquid stops moving along one of them altogether, choosing the path with the least resistance. This, of course, can be dealt with by maintaining a precisely verified uniform length of all contours, but in practice this is extremely difficult to implement. There is only one way out - control valves are installed on the collector combs for each circuit, allowing the total flow to be balanced so that it is distributed evenly.


Shut-off and control valves on the manifold combs

In addition, such shut-off valves make it possible to turn off some heating zones in case of unnecessary use or in the event of emergency situations - for preventive maintenance or repairs.

Is it possible to assemble a similar wiring, mixing and fine-tuning system yourself? It is possible that if the apartment owner has the necessary knowledge in this area, he may succeed, but most often the help of a qualified specialist will be needed - commissioning work on such interdependent circuits will require a professional approach.

But in order to make the process of installing a “warm floor” from heating as easy as possible, equipment manufacturers offer ready-made integrated solutions - mixing and collector units various designs with already assembled elements, including a circulation pump, a system of mixers and taps, instrumentation, and automatic or manual control units. Thus, the apartment owners can, after consulting with specialists, choose the most acceptable option that best suits the specific installation conditions and suits the cost. The choice is quite large - such units are produced both for small rooms and capable of optimally distributing coolant flows over large areas.


As a rule, for such mixing units a manifold cabinet is provided, which can be completely hidden in a niche cut out in the wall. The location is selected for reasons of maximum simplification of the layout of the “warm floor” pipe system, access to the supply and return risers of the central heating system. With small heating areas and small dimensions of the unit itself, it is sometimes placed directly on the external wall.

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching a “warm floor” system

Laying the contours of "warm floor" pipes is usually done in next sequence:

  • The condition of the subfloor is inspected. If necessary, its defects are eliminated - cavities and cracks are sealed with repair mortar, protruding places are cut down to a smooth surface. After removing debris and removing dust, it is necessary to apply a deep penetration primer - it will increase the strength of the base and create an additional waterproofing barrier.
  • A layer of waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 200 microns is covered. It should be on the surface of the walls at 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. Adjacent strips are laid with an overlap of 150 mm, the resulting seams are taped with durable construction tape.
  • A damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the wall, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the future screed covering the pipes of the heating circuits. The height of the rise of the tape on the walls should correspond to the planned thickness of the screed plus another 20 ÷ 30 mm.
  • Thermal insulation mats are laid. It is also advisable to glue the joints with waterproof tape. If the polystyrene foam is not equipped with a reflective foil layer, it is also necessary to lay a thin foil backing made of polyethylene foam.
  • The pipes are laid out according to a pre-developed scheme. The layout begins from the manifold cabinet, and it should end here. To ensure the connection of the pipe to the collector, the necessary reserve must be left.
  • If profile mats are used, the pipes are fixed between the bosses. For even insulation panels, plastic fasteners and mounting strips are used. As an option, the pipes can be tied to the reinforcing mesh. It is best to carry out such actions with an assistant, who, as the coil unwinds and lays out, will immediately fix the pipe in the right place.

Laying the “warm floor” contour
  • Both terminals of each circuit are hermetically connected to the corresponding manifold in the distribution cabinet.

  • The next step is to check the tightness of the system. To do this, it is carried out - all circuits and elements of the mixing cabinet are filled with water under operating pressure. If it is possible to use compression equipment, then the pressure should even be increased by one and a half - two times. The filled system must remain in this position for at least a day, during which the pressure gauge readings and visual monitoring of the condition of the pipes and all fittings or threaded connections are carried out. If a leak or pressure drop is detected, the necessary repair measures are carried out and the pressure testing process is repeated. Only with a stable positive result can you proceed to closing the “warm floor” contours with a screed.

Closing the “warm floor” with a screed
  • carried out in the usual manner - with reinforcement, installation of a beacon system. Use concrete mortar grade strength not lower than M200 with fine sand. It is highly desirable to add a plasticizing compound, which will make it easier to lay the mortar in difficult places (near pipes and on ledges mounting strips or relief mats), will help to avoid the formation of air voids - they can not only reduce the strength of the coating, but also worsen the thermal characteristics of the created heating system.

The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm. A layer that is too thick will disrupt the thermal balance and will place an unnecessary load on both the pipes and the ceiling. Insufficient thickness of the screed will not ensure the safety of the contours from dynamic loads, and will not allow it to cope with the role of a heat accumulator.

Before pouring concrete, the pipes must be filled with coolant to prevent deformation of their walls as the weight load increases.

Until the screed has completely dried (3 - 4 weeks, depending on the type of solution used), it is forbidden to increase the temperature of the coolant in the system - the screed must gain stable strength temperature conditions.

A completely dry concrete surface will become the basis for laying any type of finishing flooring.

Video: screed option over “warm floor” pipes

If the use of “concrete” technology is impossible (due to the concept of the floor level being too high or due to the inadmissibility of a large load on the ceiling), “warm floors” are recommended to be laid in wooden modules using heat exchange plates, which were already mentioned above.


Laying “warm floor” pipes in wooden modules

Similar plates can also be used on profile mats, if you select them in full accordance with the diameter of the pipes and the distance between the bosses.


You can carry out a similar installation on profile mats...

Alternatively, even in ordinary mats of extruded polystyrene foam, grooves can be cut for installing heat exchange plates and then laying pipes in them.


... or even directly on XPS panels

On such a surface, after crimping, you can immediately lay the finishing floor covering. If you plan to lay laminate flooring, then only a foam polyethylene backing will be needed. In the event that linoleum or tiles are laid on the floor, metal plates First, a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL) is laid, and only then the finishing coating is installed.

And finally, the features of starting a “warm floor” system from heating. Under no circumstances should you immediately run it at full power. Commissioning should be carried out in steps, with a smooth increase in coolant temperature to the design temperature. It is recommended to extend this process over 3–4 days.

What is the conclusion from all of the above? Is it possible to call the process of creating a heated floor from an existing heating system a simple one that anyone can undertake? Probably not. You should carefully weigh your desires and capabilities, think through all the stages of obtaining permission for installation and the practical implementation of the project, and, most likely, you will have to come to the conclusion that you cannot do without the help of qualified specialists in this matter.

TOP 7 best heated floors

Photo Name Rating Price
The best cable electric floors
#1


Devi 330 W, 16.5 m

⭐ 99 / 100

#2


Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

⭐ 98 / 100

The best heated floors in the form of heating mats
#1


Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

⭐ 99 / 100

#2


Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

⭐ 98 / 100

The best film heated floor
#1


Caleo Grid 220 W 3 m2

⭐ 99 / 100

The best water heated floors
#1


Corrugated pipe 15A, annealed

⭐ 98 / 100

Today, installation of a heating hydraulic circuit in flooring, enjoys unprecedented popularity among our compatriots. The reason for this is the extremely unsatisfactory performance of classic radiator heating with centralized supply coolant. The hype around the “warm floor” technology forces many “craftsmen” to agree to a direct ban from the authorities, arbitrarily installing heating in an apartment along the floor, thereby disturbing the thermal balance and increasing the hydraulic resistance in the heating system (CO) of the entire house.

There are legal ways to implement water heated floors in apartments in apartment buildings, and you can connect a heated floor system from central heating. This publication will discuss several operating schemes that will not cause hydraulic and thermal imbalance in the CO.

Secondary ring diagram

This scheme can be implemented with a single-pipe CO system in an apartment. The primary ring is the central CO; secondary – the “warm floor” circuit.

  • The connection to the central heating system is made only in the return line, at the outlet of the radiator.
  • Shut-off valves are installed on the circuit, and on the return of the “warm floor” ring there is also check valve, preventing the coolant from moving in the opposite direction.
  • The water heated floor in the apartment is equipped with a mixing unit, which includes a pump and a three-way valve.

Despite its simplicity, this scheme is effective, but only if correct installation and a clear assembly sequence.

Advice: The problem is whether you can prove to utility companies that this scheme is workable and does not lead to an imbalance in the centralized CO. As a rule, specialists from regulatory services refer to the prohibition of making any design changes to the heating system. Therefore, we strongly recommend that before creating a heated floor using this technology, you consult with a lawyer and a professional heating engineer.

100% of heating engineers will say that without breaking the law, you can create heated floors in an apartment with individual heating.

Despite the ban from public utilities on making any changes to the centralized heating system, experts came up with a scheme in which, when implemented, an autonomous heating system will be created, where the tank will act as a heat generator indirect heating(buffer tank, heat accumulator), heat exchanger.

This system does not affect the design of the central CO in any way, does not change the pressure and does not increase hydrostatic resistance. The numbers indicate the following equipment:

  • 1 Circulation pump
  • 2 Three-way mixer
  • 3 and 4 Ball valves
  • 15 Heat exchanger piping group, which includes: check valve; ball valve with sump.

Any home craftsman can assemble a Warm floor from heating in an apartment with his own hands according to this scheme. For a clearer understanding of the assembly process, we recommend watching a video on the topic:

Points to remember


Warm floor or radiator: which is better for an apartment

Every day a huge number of our compatriots wonder how to make a warm floor from heating, as they are firmly convinced that this design Heating an apartment is more efficient than a classic radiator. Let's consider economic feasibility each CO.

  1. The heated floor system is more economical. This issue is especially important for the owner of autonomous heating systems and the owner of apartments with heat meters. For this design, as the main heating system, it is necessary to reduce the heat loss of the home to a level of 40-50 W/m2. But with such low heat losses, radiator CO will be no less effective.
  2. There is a common belief that when heating with radiators, “it’s hot at the top and cold near the floor.” As a rule, everything depends, again, on the insulation of the home. If it complies with European standards, then the difference in air temperature under the ceiling and near the floor, even with radiators, will be minimal, 1-2°C.
  3. The level of comfort increases significantly if you install a “warm floor” system in all rooms of the apartment. Indeed, it is more pleasant to walk on such a floor, but answer yourself the question: are you ready to abandon carpet, linoleum and other floor coverings in your entire apartment in favor of ceramic tiles, which have the best heat transfer?

And lastly: compare the costs of implementing the “water heated floor” project, which includes permits, a design with calculations, expensive installation and setting up the operation with high efficiency, which is a rather controversial issue.

Advice: Competent calculation of a water heated floor is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge of many nuances. That is why, to carry them out, contact only professionals.

Many owners today are increasingly turning their attention to underfloor heating systems and resorting to installing them in their own homes. The most popular water heating in the floor of the apartment, connected to the central heating system, which will be discussed.

Water heated floor in the apartment

There are many instructions that tell you how to install a heated floor system, but for the most part they are written for owners of private houses. What about residents of apartment buildings who also want to create warmth and comfort in their home?

In their case, a warm floor from central heating in the apartment may exist, but the installation process will have a number of nuances. First of all, laying such a system will lead to an imbalance in temperature with the rooms located next door.


An improperly installed heated floor will be noticed by inspectors from the housing and communal services service, which is fraught with sanctions for the owner.

Problems arising during installation in an apartment

Before laying underfloor heating from heating in an apartment, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the list possible problems appearing before the owner:

  • The coolant temperature in the central heating system is very high. Water with a temperature of 70-90 degrees Celsius cannot be used in pipelines laid in the ceiling. The permissible norm is within 50 degrees Celsius. If this parameter is violated, the system will be damaged and automatically becomes a threat to the floor covering, which cannot withstand high temperatures;
  • there is a ban on installing such a heating system in apartment buildings. Guided by the law, any inspector from housing and communal services can fine the owner;
  • heating can be connected via an elevator, and heated floors exclusively using copper tubes, which are expensive and require special skills from the person installing them. Read also: "".

Alternative solution

If it is impossible to lay a warm water floor from central heating, then the owner comes to the rescue electric variety of this system. It is easier to install and you can do all the work yourself. The advantage is that in apartment building, such a system does not upset the balance and is allowed to be used.


It is only necessary to take into account the power of such a system so that there is no overload electrical network. Spatially, an electric heated floor takes up significantly less space, which makes photos of the room more aesthetically pleasing and anyone entering the apartment will not have the suspicion that there is something wrong with the floor.

At the legislative level, electric heating is permitted and can be used at any time of the year, while water flooring is dependent on the seasonal supply of hot water. Accordingly, it can function exclusively from autumn to spring - the heating season.

Methods for connecting a water heated floor in an apartment

If the owner’s goal is to have a heated floor from a radiator in the apartment, then he will have to choose one of the system modifications that allows the connection to be made without violating the functional parameters.


The following installation schemes are known:

  1. Connecting the circuit directly to the heating radiator. This method is the simplest and requires a low-power pump for installation. By financial condition Such a system will not harm the owner. The system has many disadvantages, since it will not be possible to regulate the temperature in it, but in the general riser multi-storey building the water temperature will decrease, which may cause discontent among neighbors.
  2. Connection directly via balancing valve on the bypass. Using this method, you can reduce the temperature of the water entering the heated floor pipes. It is recommended to use tubes with a diameter of 1.6 centimeters and the total length of the circuit should not exceed 70 meters. The pump used to pump water in the system must have a power that is sufficient to move 5-10 liters of water per second with a pressure of 1-2 meters per second.
  3. Also, the heated floor can be connected using a three-way valve. Its introduction into the heating system will reduce heat consumption on the heated floor circuit. The thermostat built into this valve will regulate the temperature and constantly maintain the required value. Additional modification of the system by installing a two-way valve allows you to block the flow of coolant into the system when its temperature in the heating circuit of the apartment sharply decreases.
  4. Using a shut-off valve and two three-way valves. This design makes it possible to regulate the water temperature in the heating circuit by means of a “return”. The two-way valve allows the pump pumping water not to work in vain. Otherwise, the equipment may be damaged due to overheating, and the system itself will consume a significantly larger amount of electrical energy during operation.
  5. The most functional option for making a heated floor from central heating is to install a system with a remote temperature sensor. If the coolant overheats, the supply of coolant to the heating circuit will be automatically blocked. As soon as the water returns to its original temperature and meets the required value, circulation will resume. Such an installation system will avoid overcooling of the heating circuit of the apartment. Sometimes several temperature sensors are installed on such a system for greater efficiency. Read also: "".

It is worth considering the fact that the installation of a water heated floor connected to a heating circuit can be carried out on any base. It is best to reinforce the ceiling and secure the used heated floor tubes to the mesh.


Bottom line

Laying heated floors connected to centralized system heating can be carried out independently. For high-quality installation, it is recommended to prepare a diagram in advance. It is also worth understanding that alternative heating systems will cost much less and require much less time to install.

If the choice fell on a water heated floor, then specialists will be able to help with installation and connection in compliance with all the rules. Professionals will take responsibility for purchasing all components and provide a guarantee for the services provided.



The temptation to install a water-heated floor in an apartment is quite great. Despite constant warnings from the authorities and the sad experience of those who have already installed the water circuit, residents are again and again making an additional heating system for their homes. What points should you consider before taking on a project?

Is it possible to make water floors in an apartment?

In domestic conditions, obtain official permission for installation autonomous system Heating in an apartment is quite problematic. Therefore, warm water floors in an apartment building are connected to heating risers, heated towel rails, etc., which ultimately constitutes a gross violation of the housing code.

The legislation strictly punishes anyone who makes changes to the central heating system apartment building. Independently connecting a water heated floor in an apartment is fraught with sanctions, court decisions, fines, etc.

The reason for the lawsuit is usually flooded neighbors downstairs. Therefore, before installing a water heated floor in an apartment with your own hands or with the help of hired builders, you must first calculate all the advantages and disadvantages of the solution, take into account possible risks and negative consequences.

According to SNiP, it is possible to make changes to the heating system of the apartment, subject to the approval of the modification with representatives of the housing and communal services and the heating network. In practice, this is only possible in the case of autonomous heating provided for in the design documentation.

What is needed for a water floor in an apartment

There are three main disadvantages of water heated floors in an apartment:
  • Difficulties associated with registration and legalization of work performed.
  • The consequences of possible leaks, responsibility for which falls entirely on the owner of the apartment.
  • Responsibility for uncoordinated installation.
To install warm water floors you will need to overcome all these difficulties.

Decoration - the reasons why heated water floors are prohibited in apartments are as follows:

First reason:
According to housing standards, it is not allowed to increase the heating power in an apartment when replacing radiators or making changes to the central heating pipeline.

This standard is made in order to maintain the coolant temperature level within normal limits for each room in the house. Any changes associated with an increase in energy costs are unacceptable. Therefore, it is prohibited to install water heated floors in an apartment with central heating.

You can bypass this norm if, after installing the water circuit, the total thermal power remains the same. And for this you will have to reduce the number of radiators, which is not always practical.

Second reason:
It is forbidden to lay due to possible leakage of the circuit. You will have to draw up a project of work and prove that if the integrity of the pipe is damaged, the likelihood that the water will ruin the housing of the neighbors below is negligible.

To legalize the installation and use of water floor heating in an apartment, you will have to use high-quality waterproofing and make a project with the materials specified in it. It may be necessary to put insulating corrugation on the pipes to prevent leakage, and to comply with other heating network conditions.

Probability of leaks– even if the waterproofing layer is installed correctly, it is unrealistic to completely prevent the possibility that neighbors below will not be flooded due to a pipe rupture.

And since a home-made warm water floor in an apartment is a reconstruction of the living space, financial responsibility for the damage will fall entirely on the culprit of the leak.

If it is not possible to reach an agreement peacefully with the neighbors, you will have to pay compensation, including repair work, court costs, etc.

Official registration– obtaining permission is so problematic that most owners go the other way and simply install the heating system themselves, connecting the circuit without the necessary approvals. This is regarded as illegal redevelopment of the apartment. And independent changes lead to the inability to sell living space.

The only solution is to install individual heating in the apartment. In this case, you will only need to register changes in the layout in the BTI, which is much easier than resolving issues with the Heating Network.

A fine for having a water floor in an apartment is not the only punishment. The authorities legally oblige the owner to dismantle the water circuit.

How to lay pipes on the floor

If, despite all the listed disadvantages, a decision is made to connect a heating circuit, you will need to adhere to the following scheme for installing a water heated floor in an apartment with your own hands:
  • Preparing the base– floor slabs are treated with waterproofing materials. It is preferable to use a special mastic that will prevent moisture from seeping into the neighbors in the event of a leak.
  • Laying insulation– choice thermal insulation material for laying warm water heated floors in an apartment is limited. The height of the ceilings does not allow the use of thick insulation.
    It is optimal to install warm water floors in an apartment building using polystyrene systems. In this case, mats play the role of insulation and base for pipes.
  • Water circuit – installation technology involves the use of “snail” and “snake” pipe laying methods.
  • Finishing layer - polystyrene systems are covered with plywood or gypsum fiber board in two layers. The following can be used as flooring: ceramic tiles, linoleum, parquet, laminate, etc.

The service life of a PVC water circuit does not exceed 50 years. It is strictly forbidden to use ferrous metal pipes, which will rot in the concrete floor within a few years.

Where to connect water floors

There are two methods that are used in apartments to connect to a coolant source:
  1. Heated towel rail– as a rule, heating return or hot water supply is supplied to the riser. Consequently, the heating temperature is more gentle around 35-50°C. It is much easier to power from a heated towel rail, especially considering that some owners have replaced this part of the riser by installing shut-off valves for possible repairs.
  2. Connection from a central heating system in a city apartment– the solution has several disadvantages. Water heated to 70°C and higher is supplied through the heat exchanger in the apartment. As a result, walking on a floor powered by radiators will only be possible in thick slippers with thick soles. To prevent overheating of the floor, a collector group is installed.


Installation features and possible errors

In addition to the difficulties associated with obtaining permits and approvals, certain mistakes are made during installation.
  • Independent connection with independent connection from the riser. There is always coolant in the heating pipe. The liquid is drained only during system maintenance for a short time. To begin work with central heating, you must obtain permission, pay a receipt and drain the water from the riser.
  • Lack of ability to regulate floor temperature. If you plan to power the water circuit from central heating, you will definitely need to install a system that regulates the heating of the coolant. The installation order will need to include the installation of a water collector.
  • Lack of a heated floor project. The maximum length of the pipeline cannot exceed 70 running meters. At best, this is enough for 10 m². You will need to determine the pipe layout in advance and divide the room into heating zones.
  • Use of components for underfloor heating and pipes from different manufacturers. A common mistake that leads to rapid depressurization of the system.

It is necessary to connect the water circuit in such a way that after it is turned off, the coolant continues to circulate in the central heating system.

Which floor to choose - water or electric?

From the point of view of legality and possible negative consequences, it is still better to choose floors that run on electricity. Required equipment for mounting film or cable system: electrician's kit (pliers, painting knife, wire cutters, tester, etc.).

The regulations for the use of electric floors in an apartment building do not have such serious disadvantages as in the case of a water heating circuit.

You can decide to install a water heating circuit illegally, or try to obtain official permission, but, as a rule, the material and time costs resulting from this decision are unjustified. According to SNiP, it is better to lay cable or film IR floors in an apartment building.

Heating of floor surfaces works on the principle of convection - warm air It heats up at the bottom and rises to the top, and thanks to the high level of heat transfer of the coating, the room warms up in a matter of minutes.

Warm floors - pros and cons

The most significant advantage modern system heating type "warm floor" is significant savings on heating. In addition, the obvious advantages of the presented system are expressed in:

  • High level of thermal comfort;
  • Relatively low temperature of heating elements;
  • The absence of bulky radiators that require additional decoration for visual “camouflage”;
  • Wide range of thermal control functions;
  • Long service life (up to 30 years);
  • Ability to quickly repair local faults.

Along with this, the underfloor heating system has its disadvantages. They are expressed in the following:

  • When staying indoors for a long time (bedroom, kitchen, living room) with high temperature flooring, warm floors can provoke an exacerbation of vascular diseases of the legs;
  • When using additional coating in rooms, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of the material should not exceed 0.15 m2*K/W;
  • A warm floor in an apartment does not heat up instantly, and in order to completely heat the room, some varieties will need about 10-12 hours;
  • There is a need to raise the floor by 6-10 cm during installation;
  • Warm floors in the kitchen, as in other rooms, can negatively affect plastic furniture installed on top, which, when heated, can release harmful volatile compounds.

Features and design of water heated floors

A water heated floor system can be installed in the bedroom, kitchen and other rooms. The technology involves using hot water as a coolant, which circulates through pipes under the floor covering. A heated floor device of this type can be compatible with any type of boiler, regardless of fuel. If desired, you can power the presented heating system from centralized heating. This can be done by prior agreement with a number of licensing authorities. The warm water floor system consists of:

  • Metal-polymer or polymer pipes;
  • Waterproofing layer and heat-insulating materials;
  • Fittings with which you can connect heating pipes and a distribution cabinet in which valves and regulators are located;
  • Damper tape;
  • Fastening elements (brackets, anchors, strips);
  • Thermostat;
  • Circulation pump.

The technology for laying water heated floor pipes can be of two types:

  • Snake - double or single;
  • Spiral (shell or with a shifted center).

The presented underfloor heating system has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages are expressed in:

  • Relatively low installation cost - equip warm home you can do it yourself using such a system at relatively low cost (if you have an individual heating system);
  • Water heated floor technology can be installed together with any finishing coating;
  • Autonomous operation capabilities - the system does not depend on power outages;
  • Saving heat costs. For example, if you install heated floors in the kitchen or bedroom, this will help save up to 30% of energy.

It is worth noting that when correct operation, the service life of a water floor can be more than 30 years.

Along with this, the presented system, located in the bedroom, kitchen or any other room, has certain disadvantages. The disadvantages are:

  • Long and rather complex installation;
  • Inconveniences associated with painstaking installation;
  • The need for reinforcement of pipes and screeds;
  • The need for the mandatory use of a waterproofing layer (it must be made of polyethylene).

Features of rod heated floors

Carbon (rod) flooring can be made to match tiles and any other types of flooring. It is also combined with laminate, parquet, and wood. The design is presented in the form of a heating mat, which consists of carbon rods with a thickness of 0.3 cm and a length of 0.83 cm. The rods are connected to each other using power cable By parallel circuit. The warm carbon floor system has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages are that:

  1. The technology allows heating the room using infrared waves;
  2. The warm carbon mat is versatile and can be combined with any decorative floor covering;
  3. Since the structure is connected in parallel, the heating mats can be divided into any number of sections, which is especially important in rooms with a complex layout, for example, in a bedroom;
  4. The presented heating system can be adjusted automatically. Carbon rods adapt to areas of the floor with different temperatures and provide uniform heating over the entire area. In some areas (cold) the temperature increases, and in warmer areas it decreases;
  5. The service life of the heating circuit can be 10-15 years.

Along with this, rod heated floors have their drawbacks. You can install a carbon mat only in a layer of tile adhesive, otherwise you need to make a thin cement screed. Despite its rather long service life, the system is not mobile - it can only be permanently installed.

Film heated floor in the apartment

Film electric (infrared) warm is presented in the form polymer film 5 mm thick with strips of carbon heating elements applied to it. They are connected by copper busbars coated with silver plating. This structure is fused into a polymer on both sides, which protects it from moisture penetration and transmits infrared waves through it. The film runs on 220 V household electricity and is regulated using a thermostat.

The advantages of infrared film flooring are:

  • Low cost compared to similar systems;
  • Simple and quick installation - installation requires a minimum set of tools, it can be done without a concrete screed;
  • Possibility of accommodation for both major and cosmetic repairs;
  • Convenient separation of the film into pieces of the required length;
  • Uniform heating of the room;
  • No impact on the air in the bedroom, kitchen and other rooms. This floor does not dry out the air and does not burn oxygen;
  • Possibility of combination with various types coverings - you can lay wooden parquet, carpet, linoleum or ceramic tiles on top.

The service life of infrared floors exceeds 25 years.

Advice! Before laying the IR floor, you need to thoroughly level the surface of the base floor, otherwise the film may become deformed during installation, which will lead to problems.

Along with this, film flooring also has its disadvantages:

  • If infrared film is the main source of heating, then energy consumption will increase significantly;
  • Careful installation is essential - during the installation process you need to constantly monitor the correct connection of the contacts, and to level the floor surface you need to use chipboard or plywood;
  • If there is no grounding, there is a possibility of the coating catching fire and injuring people. electric shock. A device is needed that provides protective shutdown of the system;
  • The technology requires compliance with operating conditions - such a floor can be easily damaged by heavy furniture, so installation should be done in areas free from it.

Cable heated floor

Cable-type underfloor heating is one of the most common underfloor heating systems. The main element of this design is heating cable, which can be laid in the bedroom, hallway, kitchen and other rooms. The technology can use two types of cable - single-core and double-core.

A heating cable is needed to ensure optimal room temperature. It fits in concrete screed 3-5 cm thick. Such a heating system can be mounted under porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles or stone.

The advantages of single-core cable structures are expressed in the fact that they have a long service life compared to double-core ones. Along with this, installing a floor using a two-core cable is much easier and safer. The advantages also lie in the ability of the cable insulating material to withstand temperatures of more than 100 ° C and the overall degree of reliability of the system. The service life of a cable floor depends on operating conditions and is 10-15 years.

The disadvantages of the presented system lie in the complexity of connecting cables to the thermostat. The so-called “cold ends” may not be of sufficient length; they will have to be extended before installation. In addition, the cable creates quite a strong electromagnetic radiation, which, however, does not exceed established sanitary standards.

Which heated floor is better to choose?

Most experts recommend choosing heating systems with electric cable. This is worth doing due to their practicality and general safety. Cable floors are convenient and easy to install; such heating coating can be installed in any room - bedroom, kitchen, bathroom.

Cable electric floors have reduced power consumption, and the room is heated evenly and continuously. This is due to the fact that the heated air from the cable heater rises from the bottom up and spreads throughout the room, regardless of the location of the furniture. Floor with cable heating can operate in two modes - “comfort floor” and “full heating”. The user can organize the heating of not the entire surface, but only the desired part of it. Cable underfloor heating consumes 90-150 W per 1 m².

If you need an electric floor under laminate or linoleum, but you do not plan to fill the screed, then you should choose an infrared heating floor system. With a film thickness of 0.3 mm, this system will be perfectly combined with polymer finishing.

In which rooms is it better to have heated floors?

Warm floors are needed to organize continuous and uniform heating of rooms. Before choosing one, a logical question arises: in which rooms should underfloor heating be installed? If the system will be the only source of heating, then it must be installed in all rooms. In the case of an addition to the main heating source, you will need to decide in advance where to install the heated floor.

In the bathroom and toilet, underfloor heating is installed to prevent bare feet from standing on cold tiles and to reduce the overall level of humidity. In addition, when drying clothes, a warm floor in the bathroom will significantly speed up the drying process.

Another most functional place for underfloor heating systems is a loggia or balcony. Thanks to heating, this room can be converted into a small additional room.

Before installing heated floors in the kitchen, you should weigh all the pros and cons. So, for example, if there are tiles on the floor, and small children will spend a lot of time on it, then heating of this kind will be quite appropriate. If there is laminate flooring in the kitchen, and ventilation system copes well with excess moisture, then a warm floor will only dry out the air.

The heated floor system in the bedroom is made under a soft covering - carpet, cork, solid parquet board. There is an opinion that installing heated floors in the bedroom is not recommended, since according to medical recommendations, sleep should take place in a room with a temperature lower by several degrees (compared to other rooms).

In the living room, heating elements are needed if they are combined on the floor different types coverings. It is recommended to install warm floors under a porcelain stoneware walkway, which will divide the room into several zones.