Among all existing varieties finishing floor coverings linoleum enjoys special love and respect. This material simultaneously combines high quality, ease of installation, attractive appearance and an affordable price.
And if there are no difficulties with laying linoleum in most rooms, then the process of installing the coating in question in the corridor, bathroom and on the balcony must be approached with knowledge of certain nuances. First of all, understand the features of basic surface preparation.
Regardless of where the linoleum is installed, the basic preparation will remain the same. Only the finishing preparation and the actual laying of the flooring will differ.
First step. Remove the boardwalk.
Second step. Check the tightness of the structural elements. Drive in any protruding nails and strengthen the system overall.
Third step. Get rid of rotten floorboards. Instead, install new, durable elements. If there is a damaged beam, replace it too.
Fourth step. Seal all visible cracks with putty.
Fifth step. Additionally level and strengthen the underground space using sheets of plywood. Lay the sheets with offset seams, like brickwork, and attach them to the support beam using self-tapping screws.
Walk across the floor. If you find sagging areas, place additional supporting elements under them, for example, pieces of fiberboard.
Basic concrete floor preparation
In the case of a concrete floor, you will need to get rid of the existing floor covering and repair or completely replace the screed.
In the case of concrete base You should refrain from using plywood flooring - in such conditions the wood will rot very quickly.
Additionally, you can prime the concrete to eliminate the slightest defects in the base and improve the quality of adhesion of the flooring to the surface.
Some home craftsmen practice laying new linoleum on an existing similar coating. This method is quite appropriate in the corridor - the old linoleum will serve as a kind of substrate, providing additional protection for the new flooring from damage.
Torn and dirt-soaked linoleum definitely needs to be removed.
Remember also that only a single-layer new coating can be laid on old linoleum. Before finishing, the base should be thoroughly washed, dried and primed. A layer of primer will ensure stronger adhesion of the new coating to the existing base.
Regardless of the specific room in which linoleum is planned to be laid, the requirements for preliminary preparation finishing materials remain the same for all situations.
Before laying new linoleum, you need to bring it into the room, unfold it, level it and leave it for a couple of days. The optimal indoor air temperature is +15-+18 degrees. Humidity should not exceed 65 percent.
The following requirement is only relevant for balconies, because In most cases there are no windows in corridors and bathrooms. When laying a covering of several strips of material, the seams should be placed perpendicular to the window - this way they will be less noticeable.
When laying linoleum, you must remember about allowances for seams and indentations around the perimeter. Usually a margin of a couple of centimeters is enough.
In the case of laying linoleum with a pattern, in the process of calculating and designing the finish, add an increased margin for adjusting the coating to the pattern.
In the bathroom, hallway and on the balcony, linoleum is laid with the obligatory use of underlays. Most modern manufacturers offer linoleum, to back side which the backing was initially glued to. If such an addition is not available, you will need to buy and glue it yourself.
On modern market presented large selection substrates from a wide variety different materials.
A cork backing is unlikely to be suitable for the situations under consideration. It is not recommended to use it in the corridor for the reason that cork very poorly tolerates the load from heels and other thin objects.
You can't put her in the bathroom, because... the cork is not in the best possible way tolerates contact with moisture.
And on the balcony there is simply no point in using a “cork” - there are much more budget-friendly analogues.
Therefore, it is better to leave cork substrates for residential premises.
Jute
Jute backings are also quite expensive. However, such material feels great both in the bathroom and on the balcony and even in the hallway - jute is not afraid of moisture, fire and point loads.
The material is budget and quite popular, but it cannot be called very high quality. Penoizol does not have high rigidity, so it cannot be laid in the hallway. Such a substrate is also not suitable for a bath. The only option for use in the situations under consideration is when laying linoleum on a glazed balcony.
Choose a suitable underlay and be sure to use it when laying the flooring. Without a high-quality rigid base, your linoleum will very quickly lose its original visual appeal.
For installation in the hallway, use exclusively quality linoleum with a high strength index. The substrate, if it is not initially included with the linoleum, should also be as high as possible. high quality. Give preference to jute base.
Otherwise, laying material in the hallway is no different from similar work in most other rooms of the house.
First step. Measure the corridor taking into account the overlaps in doorways. In the case of linoleum, standard sizes change in increments of 500 mm. Round the measured width up to 50 cm. Add a margin of 30-40 cm to the length.
Second step. Remove cabinets, other furniture and interior items from the corridor, if any.
Third step. Prepare the floor in accordance with the previously received recommendations and proceed directly to laying the floor covering. If there is no factory backing on the back of the linoleum, lay the underlay yourself.
Fourth step. Spread the linoleum along the corridor, with approximately the same overlap on the walls. Also, the overlap should be sufficient to cover existing openings and niches.
Fifth step. Armed with a utility knife and ruler, carefully cut away the excess linoleum on each side. Be careful not to damage the coating. The laying technology requires that there be a gap of 20-30 mm between the linoleum and the wall. Take this into account when cutting the material.
The gap is necessary for the simple reason that the material in question is subject to thermal deformation. In the heat, linoleum expands, and if there is no gap between the coating and the walls, the coating will simply go in waves.
Sixth step. After fitting, fix the linoleum to the floor. The best way to do this is with glue. Fold one edge of the linoleum to approximately the middle, cover the base with an even layer of adhesive, lay the linoleum on the base and press the material to the surface, carefully smoothing out all the unevenness and getting rid of any air trapped under the flooring. Then follow a similar procedure with the second part of the coating.
Let the glue dry. Hide the gaps between the walls and the covering using decorative skirting boards.
Laying linoleum in the bathroom
The procedure for laying linoleum in the bathroom does not differ significantly from installing flooring in the hallway. However, when renovating a bathroom, you must eliminate the risk of water getting under the installed coating. Based on this, a series arises additional requirements and new features of linoleum laying technology.
Remember the following requirements and take them into account during the implementation process finishing works. Carry out the actual installation of linoleum in the same way as in the case of the corridor.
First of all, try to ensure that the entire bathroom floor is covered with a single piece of material. The fewer joints you make, the lower the risk of moisture penetration under the flooring.
In the bathroom, linoleum must be laid on a substrate, best option– jute lining material.
Consider the option of laying linoleum without gluing it to the floor. Such an installation will leave you with the opportunity to periodically unpleasant odor lift the covering to disinfect the base and finishing materials.
If there are joints, they should be glued using “cold welding”. In particular, great attention should be paid to the quality of gluing linoleum at the joints with water supply pipes.
In the bathroom, linoleum is laid with some overlap on walls and other vertical surfaces (plumbing ducts, etc.). This installation option will prevent moisture from penetrating under the edges of the flooring.
For fixation and additional protection from moisture penetration, fix the linoleum against the walls using pressing polyvinyl chloride skirting boards. The use of special fluted skirting boards is also allowed.
If you still decide to glue the linoleum to the base, use dispersion moisture-resistant glue for this. First dismantle the toilet and sink cabinet.
Lay the linoleum and return the dismantled products to their places, having previously cut the appropriate holes in the linoleum. The mentioned products are installed with mandatory subsequent sealing of the cracks underneath them. To seal, use a transparent compound specially designed for this purpose.
Joints formed in places where the coating overlaps the walls should also be glued using cold welding. Fastening thick linoleum butt joints may require the use of hot welding, but you will not be able to cope with it yourself without special equipment and skills in handling it.
Video - Cold welding of linoleum
The procedure for laying linoleum on the balcony is practically no different from installing the material in the hallway. If the balcony is not glazed, then the coating must be protected from moisture penetration. In this case, follow the rules that are relevant for the technology of laying linoleum in the bathroom.
The only significant differences are present only in the preparation of the balcony floor before laying the linoleum.
First step. Get rid of the old coating. Carefully examine the condition of the base. If there are defects, repair them with a primer or sand them. Any irregularities will be noticeable on the laid coating and will lead to a significant reduction in its service life.
Second step. Prime the floor and let it dry.
Third step. Fill in concrete screed, let it dry, and re-prime the base.
Fourth step. Spread the linoleum on the dry base. Let the material sit for a couple of days to get used to the surrounding conditions and level out.
Fifth step. Cut the linoleum around the perimeter of the balcony and attach it to the floor using special glue.
If linoleum is laid on a glazed balcony, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the covering and the walls, and then close the gaps with a plinth.
Video - Laying linoleum on the balcony
When making repairs on an unglazed balcony, lay linoleum overlapping the walls, as in a bathroom.
Thus, if desired, linoleum can be laid even in such specific rooms as balconies, bathrooms and hallways. You just need to take into account the characteristics of each of these premises and follow the recommendations received in everything.
Good luck!
Video - How to lay linoleum with your own hands
Video - Mistakes when laying linoleum
For many years in our country, linoleum was a cheap alternative to parquet. If you don’t have money for parquet, lay linoleum. In the minds of many of us, this material is unfairly awarded the label “for the poor.” But in reality this is far from the case. In pursuit of some semblance of luxury, we buy cheap analogues of elite building materials and thereby doom ourselves to inconvenience and unnecessary expenses. But you can forget about prejudices and buy high-quality linoleum - a material that has excellent wear resistance, is easy to care for and looks great at the same time. Moreover, every more or less experienced owner is sure that he knows how to lay linoleum on his own. Let's check if this is actually true.
How to choose the right linoleum?
You can understand that this material is more relevant than ever by simply entering a large store that sells floor coverings. The range of linoleum here is huge - isn’t this the best confirmation of its popularity?
In order not to get lost in the diversity, pay attention to the labeling. It consists of two numbers, the first of which determines the type of room for which the material is intended:
- 2 – living rooms,
- 3 – offices,
- 4 – enterprises.
The second number shows what load intensity the material is ready for - from one to three in increasing order. This does not mean that in an apartment or private residential building you can only use linoleum of class 21-23. For example, class 31 linoleum is perfect for the kitchen - it washes well and is practically not afraid of damage - but the cost of such material is much higher.
In addition to its purely decorative function, linoleum can also serve for insulation and sound insulation. If these characteristics are important to you, choose a foam-based material.
In addition to choosing the coverage class, you will have to calculate required quantity. To do this, we suggest you use our online calculator:
Features of laying the coating
And yet, how to lay linoleum correctly? Instructions on the World Wide Web suggest gluing it to the base. This method is the most reliable. If you simply spread linoleum and press it with baseboards, over time it can move, causing a wave to form on the floor. But putting the coating back in place is quite problematic. Firstly, for this you will have to remove all the furniture from the room, and secondly, there is such a thing as a “habit” of the material - the shift will repeat in the near future.
In large rooms, where one strip of linoleum is not enough and you have to join several pieces together, you cannot do without glue. Even a decorative metal strip will not hold the material in place. In the end it will simply break. However, the glue-free method has a right to life. It is perfect for small rooms where the load on the flooring is small. Especially if you plan to lay a carpet on top of the linoleum.
Preparing the base for installation
Linoleum is quite unpretentious, it can be laid on almost any base. Due to its elasticity, it precisely follows the shape of the base, so the quality of floor leveling is of great importance in this case. It is necessary to carefully seal all potholes and cracks, and then vacuum the surface.
Before applying adhesive to a concrete floor, it must be primed. But it is better to pre-install a plank floor that is not too smooth. Linoleum cannot be glued or secured with skirting boards on the day of purchase.
Before you start cutting, the material must be spread on the floor and left for 1-2 days to “get used to”. Only after this can you pick it up construction knife and start working.
Important! Even very wide linoleum must be transported rolled into rolls. Packed creases in the material are almost impossible to smooth out.
Glue-free installation method
By choosing not to glue the covering to the substrate, you will certainly save yourself a lot of work. Probably everyone knows how to lay linoleum correctly in this way - it’s very simple. After the linoleum has rested, it is necessary to trim off the excess. This is done with a sharp construction knife. When cutting material near the wall, leave a margin of a few centimeters.
That's all, all that remains is to screw the baseboards.
Rules for laying on glue
- After cutting the material, roughly divide the room in half and roll one half of the covering into a roll.
- Using a notched trowel, apply glue to the base and unroll the linoleum.
- It is important that at this moment no air bubbles get under the coating. This is especially dangerous for thin and light material. In this case, it is better to go over the surface with a rubber roller, as when gluing wallpaper.
- Now roll up the second half of the material and repeat the procedure.
When cutting large pieces of linoleum, it is important to leave a certain supply of material intended to compensate for its shrinkage. For a sheet 5 m long it is 2 cm, up to 10 m - 4 cm, over 11 m - 6 cm.
Subtleties of laying multiple sheets
In large rooms, as a rule, it is necessary to join several sheets of linoleum. If you do this incorrectly, you can irreparably ruin the appearance of the room. Here are a few tricks to help avoid mistakes:
- A covering with an abstract pattern, for example, “marbled”, should be glued away from the window in the direction sun rays. Then the joints will be less noticeable. For a material with a geometric pattern that imitates a wooden or tile floor, the direction of installation does not matter much.
- If you have to cut linoleum at the joint, then this must be done in a special way - two sheets at the same time. Place the uncut sheets one on top of the other and very sharp knife Using a ruler or rule, cut both sheets at once. In this case, even if the cut is slightly uneven, there will be no gap. You may not be able to cut through two layers of thick linoleum, then try to at least scratch a stripe on the bottom sheet. Using this strip you can then make an even cut.
- When bringing furniture into the room, pay special attention to its legs. They should have special attachments that will prevent the floor covering from being pressed through.
There are a few more tricks for connecting sheets together. More on this later.
How is linoleum welded?
Repair companies that refinish large public buildings, used for joining sheets special equipment. This welding method is called hot. Unfortunately, it is not available at home, but it can easily be replaced by so-called cold welding. This is a special glue that melts the edges of linoleum and leads to their seamless connection.
- Cold welding must be used very carefully. To protect visible areas of the coating, apply masking tape to the joint of the sheets, and then cut it so as to expose the joint.
- With special care, the gap between the sheets must be filled with glue; the layer thickness must be at least 4 mm.
- After a few minutes, you can remove the tape with any remaining adhesive.
This is what it looks like:
Laying linoleum is a fairly simple process, but it also has its secrets, ignorance of which can lead to very sad consequences. By following our recommendations, you can easily install this flooring, and it will serve you for many years.
Installation of any floor covering is the final and very important stage in floor finishing. The durability of the coating and its aesthetic appearance depend on the correct flooring. Correct flooring- it's not just compliance general instructions, but also taking into account all the nuances relating to a specific type of flooring, be it laminate or linoleum. Therefore, it would be logical to note that you need to start with a choice.
Once the choice is made and the materials are purchased, it is important to follow both general and specific recommendations for laying a specific type of linoleum on a specific floor (concrete, wood, plywood). Let's look at everything in more detail.
Correct conditions
It is very important to observe the temperature regime. The temperature in the room should not be lower than +15 degrees, and the temperature of the base, regardless of whether it is a concrete or wooden floor, should vary from +15 to +25 degrees.
Before laying linoleum on the floor yourself, you need to give the material time for the so-called acclimatization in its unfolded and straightened form. The time for acclimatization is at least 24 hours, and winter period it increases to 3 days.
Important Details
- Before you start cutting linoleum, it is better to draw up a floor plan to determine the most convenient and correct option cutting By doing this, you will achieve the most rational use of the material, so that there are as few residual pieces as possible, or they are larger.
- Depending on the type of base floor and its condition, it is necessary to decide whether a linoleum underlay will be needed, and if so, what kind.
- Type of linoleum: multi-layer or single-layer, natural (marmoleum) or PVC. Each type has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.
- Canvas dimensions. If you are looking for how to properly lay linoleum on the floor with your own hands, then it is very important to choose the right installation technology, which, in turn, depends on whether the canvas is solid or several pieces of linoleum will be installed.
- Type of glue. It is also very important to select the adhesive composition not only to the type of linoleum covering, but also to the base material.
Preparing the base
The key to laying linoleum in a room or kitchen yourself correctly is careful preparation of the base, that is, the base floor.
For proper installation of linoleum coverings, the following types of bases are acceptable:
- covering of hard sheet materials such as plywood, chipboard, MDF, etc.;
- cement screed gender;
- monolithic slab ceilings or concrete floors without defects;
- a wooden floor is less preferable, since over time the joints between the boards will appear.
A guarantee of the reliability of the laid linoleum covering is careful preparation of the base. Manufacturers of linoleum materials strongly recommend that the base floor be:
- monolithic, that is, it is necessary to carefully remove and repair all joints, seams, cracks, potholes and chips;
- level, which is achieved by using screed, repair mixture or using self-leveling floor technology (according to SNiP 2.03.13-88, for every 2 meters of floor there should be a difference of no more than 2 mm);
- durable (150-300 kg per square centimeter);
- dry (the percentage of humidity for a prefabricated screed should be no more than 8%, for a cement screed - no more than 4%, for anhydrite - no more than 0.5%), so you can use special waterproofing primers if necessary;
- clean, dust-free.
Is it possible to lay linoleum on linoleum?
Theoretically, of course, it is possible, but the flooring cannot be called high-quality and even. Any professional will recommend removing old linoleum, and any other covering: laminate, parquet, carpet. Ideally, even remove paint coating gender, if any.
Therefore, there is a clear answer to the question: “Can I lay linoleum on old linoleum?” - no, if quality, strength and durability come first for you!
After the old coating is removed and the surface is dust-free, you need to treat the base with special compounds and apply a primer.
Treatment of the base with special compounds
Before laying linoleum on the floor, you need to treat the base with special compounds, which are selected depending on the type of base. Waterproofing compounds, fire retardants, antiseptics - each of them performs its task.
Applying primer
Why is this being done?
- The primer, being absorbed into the surface of the base, strengthens its upper layers and prevents the penetration of liquid.
- Primer coating increases the adhesion of the base. When laid on the base floor, linoleum adheres and sticks better.
- The soil does not allow dust to accumulate, therefore, when applying glue, it will lie evenly over the entire surface of the floor and will not roll into lumps.
So, the coating is prepared, and the crucial moment comes - laying the linoleum.
How to lay linoleum yourself: instructions
Adjusting linoleum covering
If the room is small and a single piece of linoleum is enough, then adjusting the covering is quite simple - you need to carefully cover the floor surface with linoleum so that the material wraps slightly onto the walls.
- It is important to carefully level the linoleum, removing air from under it, removing all irregularities and bends.
- Next, the linoleum is trimmed along the edges.
ATTENTION! When trimming along the perimeter, it is important to leave compensation gaps 0.5-1 cm wide.
- The next stage is the design of external and internal corners. Corners are cut using the following technology: the coating is carefully pressed to the junction point connecting vertical surface and the floor, then a cross-shaped cut is made on the canvas 3-5 mm wide, the edges of the covering are spread apart. You need to work extremely carefully so as not to cut off too much.
- After cutting off the excess, you need to fix the edges double-sided tape either put it on glue, or fix the linoleum using a pre-selected method.
Bonding linoleum sheets
How to lay linoleum yourself if it consists of several parts?
- Decorating the joints with a special decorative strip, which can be matched to the color of the linoleum.
- Joining pieces of linoleum using glue.
The latter method is more professional, but also more labor-intensive. Let's take a closer look at it. First you need to clearly align the pieces of linoleum according to the pattern.
ATTENTION! If linoleum does not have a clearly defined pattern (granite chips, specks, sand), then it is recommended to lay its sheets reversely, that is, in opposite directions. If the pattern is clearly expressed, with a clear repetition of rapport, then the laying of the linoleum pieces should be done strictly in one direction with a clear alignment of the pattern.
After the pattern is combined, double-sided tape or adhesive tape is attached under the pieces of linoleum (under the intended cut line), which is necessary to prevent the edges and parts of the linoleum from moving. Next, the linoleum sheets are placed one on top of the other with a small overlapping gap of 4-5 mm wide.
Using a metal ruler and a very sharp blade, an incision is made strictly in the middle of the overlap along the entire length of the joint. Next, a special glue is introduced into the seam, and the edges of the seam are pressed tightly against the base floor.
Fixing linoleum to the floor
As stated above, fixing linoleum to the floor when it is correct installation can be done in several ways.
- No gluing. This ideal option For small rooms or kitchens for which a single sheet of linoleum is sufficient. In this case, the laid linoleum is fixed at the edges with double-sided tape, staples or adhesive tape, and then pressed against the perimeter with decorative skirting boards.
- Fixation with glue. It is important to understand here that if you plan to change the floor covering in a few years, then removing linoleum from a floor completely covered with glue will be incredibly difficult and very labor-intensive. Therefore, we recommend applying glue around the perimeter of the canvas, crosswise and pointwise along the inner surface.
In any of the above methods, linoleum must be “rolled” with a special roller, pressing the canvas to the floor. This will ensure a stronger bond between the canvas and the base.
How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor?
A wooden floor, especially one made from floor boards, is a rather capricious base for linoleum, which must be carefully prepared.
Attention! It is important to repair the wooden floor before laying linoleum covering on it: eliminate creaking, replace old boards with new ones if necessary, apply a bioprotective composition to the entire surface.
- Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor with your own hands, you must:
- carefully remove the paintwork on the floor;
- dismantle the baseboards;
- seal, fill cracks and chips, install patches on gaps in wooden floors;
- “plant” the floor on the screws, screwing them in to a depth of 5-7 mm in order to level the surface, and then walk grinder;
- remove dust from the surface of the wooden floor with a vacuum cleaner, wash the floor thoroughly and let it dry.
What to lay under linoleum on a wooden floor?
Attention! Special attention You need to pay attention to leveling the surface of the base floor so that the linoleum covering lies flat. If the wooden floor is old enough, then an excellent way to level it is with a plywood sheet underlay.
Before laying linoleum on plywood, the plywood sheets should be mounted on the floor offset from each other (ideally, at checkerboard pattern). There should be no gaps between the sheets (they must be carefully sealed), and at the joints with the walls it is better to leave gaps 1 cm wide.
Plywood also needs to be treated with special compounds and a primer, and before that, go through an abrasive (if the surface of the plywood is smooth enough) to ensure more reliable adhesion of the plywood and linoleum.
How to lay linoleum on a concrete floor?
Laying linoleum on a concrete floor with your own hands is also not difficult, but it is quite troublesome and time-consuming if the concrete covering is old, crooked, and requires restoration and repair. As mentioned above, if the surface difference is large enough, then the surface must be leveled.
For these purposes, a concrete-cement screed using reinforcing mesh is suitable. The leveled surface must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Next, all floor defects are eliminated, and the base surface itself is prepared for installation of linoleum according to the standard rules indicated above. The procedure for how to properly lay linoleum on a concrete floor is in fact no different from the standard one. The most important thing is to thoroughly prepare the surface.
Required tools and materials
In order to lay linoleum on the floor correctly yourself, in addition to linoleum cloth, you may need:
- various compositions for repairing the base, leveling, eliminating defects;
- level, steel strip, metal ruler;
- marker, tape measure, construction knife for cutting;
- construction vacuum cleaner(a powerful home one will do);
- a short-pile roller and a notched spatula, which are suitable for applying the adhesive composition;
- a rubber roller or lapping board for smoothing the linoleum to the floor;
- double-sided tape or masking tape;
- soil composition;
- adhesive composition for attaching linoleum to the floor;
- “cold welding” glue for gluing seams;
- skirting boards and fittings, decorative strips, thresholds.
VIDEO: how to properly lay linoleum with your own hands
By the way, you can order and buy linoleum on the pages of the construction portal site, where only the most current offers from reliable suppliers and manufacturers of linoleum materials are presented.
Photo and video materials were found on the Internet and are presented for informational purposes.
In floor covering great value has flooring material. Among the mass of varieties, such as laminate, parquet, parquet board and ceramic tiles, linoleum occupies a special place. It is an alternative to all types of coatings, stands out against their background, and has a number of advantages and differences.
Laying linoleum is a separate topic, knowledge of which will allow you to lay the floor quickly and without visible defects.
Importance of the material
Laying linoleum depends on the type of material. If you approach the choice based solely on external data, during the operation of the floor covering it may turn out that it is not intended for this type of room and does not correspond to the trafficability of a particular area. Raw materials have obvious differences due to thickness, protective layer, substrate material, external characteristics. It varies in service life, degree of practicality, resistance to moisture and frequent cleaning.
In addition, the type of material is also different: the premium quality of the texture depends on the class, shade and specific pattern.
Advantages and Disadvantages
The choice of flooring is based on a study of the characteristics of the material, which consist of strong and weaknesses. This allows you to understand the degree of appropriateness of laying linoleum in a given room and determine its service life.
Among positive characteristics linoleum, the following can be noted.
- Easy installation and versatility of use in different types of rooms (can be laid in the living room, kitchen, children's room, study, hallway, home library, toilet, bathroom, corridor);
- Variability of width, thanks to which you can simplify floor covering and perform seamless technology by laying the canvas in a single sheet;
- A huge selection of colors to match high-quality materials, thanks to which the appearance of the room at the end of the renovation will be special, hinting at the wealth and delicate taste of the owners of the house;
- The antistatic structure of the material and fire resistance, due to which it does not attract dust and is resistant to combustion;
- Long service life with the proper level of protective layer (enough for 10-15 years or more);
- Resistance to moisture, wear, pressing under heavy furniture;
- Good sound insulation properties, which reduces the noise level of annoying extraneous sounds;
- Compatible with underfloor heating systems and uniform distribution warm air throughout the room, making it possible to step on the floor with bare feet;
- Different price ranges, which allows you to put a covering on the floor taking into account your own preferences and planned purchase budget.
A unique property of linoleum is its compatibility with different finishes floor coverings: it can be combined with ceramic tiles, parquet and parquet tiles, supplement with laminate, frame with porcelain stoneware. This method of installing the floor provides a lot of design opportunities and allows you to play up the lack of space, zone the room, giving it an unobtrusive organization.
The combination involves the use of materials of up to three varieties of different colors and textures, which is convenient and allows you to hide installation defects using thresholds and decorative plinths.
Cons
Laying linoleum is a rational investment. However, with a lot of advantages, the material has several negative nuances.
- Price square meter material increases with increasing thickness of the protective layer;
- Among the assortment on sale, not all raw materials are natural: synthetics do not suit all buyers;
- The greater the weight, the more difficult it is to transport the material and more opportunity violation of the integrity of the coating during inaccurate delivery;
- Depending on the quality and class, linoleum can dry out under constant temperature changes, which leads to a loss of elasticity of the material;
- Laying must be carried out as accurately as possible: failure to comply with the technology can cause the formation of waves on the surface of the floor.
Not every type of linoleum is easy to work with: if air is left under it, the coating may swell. If the area of the room is larger than the maximum permissible width of the canvas, joints cannot be avoided.
Joints are a sore spot for installation. They are weak and susceptible to moisture, so to extend their service life you need to care for the floor covering as carefully as possible: you should not fill it with water, it is important to immediately remove dirt from the surface before it becomes part of the pattern.
Types of linoleum
To avoid any negative surprises in your work, and to ensure that the flooring is the best, it is important to know the types of linoleum, which are determined by its structure. Linoleum – finishing material polymer-based, which often consists of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), has a dense structure and porous base. It can be homogeneous, consisting of a single layer, or heterogeneous, multilayered.
The first type combines all layers into one, so it is painted through and erases quite slowly. The second type allows you to clearly see the different layers by looking at a cut of linoleum from the side.
Each type is unique in its own way, allowing you to choose a suitable material option for floor covering. The only thing that distinguishes them is a protective layer, which is larger in heterogeneous varieties.
In addition to polyvinyl chloride linoleum, companies offer other types of flooring for sale, among which the following are especially in demand.
- Natural, made from oxidized linseed oil, resins from deciduous trees, wood flour, limestone, jute and color pigments of natural origin (plain linoleum with a service life of up to 40 years, excellent bactericidal properties and practical qualities);
- Alkyd, which is distinguished by a woven base, the presence of alkyd resins and various pigments in its composition (it has a higher level of sound and heat insulation compared to polyvinyl chloride linoleum, but is fragile and susceptible to cracking);
- Rubber, which is a product of processing rubber waste with the addition of a top layer of new rubber (moisture-resistant material, characterized by high elasticity).
Based on the type of wear resistance and purpose, linoleum is divided into three types.
- Domestic;
- Semi-commercial;
- Commercial.
What's the difference?
Household flooring- a cheap class of material that wears off faster than analogues, looks simpler, has a smooth surface, and has no texture. Its colors are often stylistic, in the form of ornaments; they are not distinguished by premium quality and relief.
The material is suitable for areas with low traffic, wearing out over time in the most productive areas of the canvas.
Semi-commerce Better than the household analogue, stronger, more resistant to abrasion. It looks more expensive, has more solid colors for parquet, laminate, marble and tile. The coating is resistant to high weight loads and is intended for floor coverings in residential buildings, studios, salons, shops.
The material can have a smooth, textured surface, often has anti-slip properties and is intended for areas with medium and high traffic.
Commercial linoleum– premium grade of flooring of this material. Its front side is practically no different from its semi-commercial counterpart. It is quite solid, can have anti-slip, antibacterial impregnation, and often contains natural ingredients, which increases its cost.
This linoleum differs in price and weight, which depends on protective film.
Model range flooring can be complemented with different effects. In addition to slip protection and fire resistance, the canvases are treated with antistatic impregnation and are made with a 3D effect. The texture may be rough, reminiscent of the structure of wood boards.
According to the type of base, linoleum comes with a foam or felt base. This factor determines the need for a substrate. If the linoleum has insulation, there is no need for a backing: the felt will perform the function of sound and heat insulation, and at the same time hide uneven floors.
Protection
Protection is the main difference between linoleums of different classes. If the store sellers answer at length what the difference is, in reality everything is simple: household, semi-commercial and commercial linoleum have different thicknesses of the protective film located on top of the canvas (on the front side). It is this that saves the surface from losing its attractive appearance and determines different levels weight load on the surface of the canvas. To understand the difference, it is worth looking at the linoleum from the side.
- For the household class, the film is almost invisible and amounts to 0.1-0.2 mm;
- Semi-commercial has better protection: 0.3-0.4 mm;
- Commerce is more reliable: its protective layer ranges from 0.6 mm to 1 mm.
To choose the right one, you can focus on the weight: if you take canvases of the same width, the weight of the household canvas will be the lightest, while commercial linoleum may be too heavy to lift. Moreover, there is an interesting nuance: the thicker the protective layer, the thinner the foam base of the linoleum. Sometimes, of course, there are exceptions, but more often the commercial thickness is minimal and reaches no more than 3 mm.
Such linoleum can only be laid on a flat, almost ideal surface.
To choose the best type of material that is optimally easy to install, you should take a closer look at semi-commercial: its characteristics are sufficient for the floor to be perfectly flat and the surface not to wear off even in high-traffic areas. Commercial linoleum was originally created for production premises. However, its high resistance to loads was noted by many buyers, so today commercial flooring is often used to decorate the floors of apartments and country houses. Many users like it much more than laminate, which swells when exposed to high humidity.
If you want to purchase commercial-grade flooring, it is better to pay attention to the option with a protection of 0.6-0.8 mm and the maximum possible thickness. So the weight load will be maximum, and floor unevenness will not stand out.
Linoleum under tiles
Tile linoleum is an analogue of the roll variety and a unique alternative ceramic tiles. In structure, it is no different from linoleum in in the usual form. There is the same classification, the presence of household, semi-commercial and commercial categories, the similarity of the composition of the layers and a similar level of thickness of the protective film.
The difference is appearance: linoleum tiles are fragments of the same size and shade, which are laid like ceramic flooring.
The raw materials are so similar to tiles that it can be difficult to distinguish them at first glance.
Otherwise, no changes: the characteristics are similar to the roll counterpart, the service life depends on the quality of installation, the durability of the coating is determined by the intensity of use work surface, a smooth surface depends on the calibration, seams are made as desired. This type of installation allows the combination of materials of different textures: tiled linoleum can be combined with an analogue of a different shade and color, supplemented with tiles and, less often, laminate.
Parquet is inappropriate here: there is too much small parts can disrupt the nobility of the floor covering, thereby adding a feeling of disorder to the room.
How to calculate the required amount of material?
Today for convenience and simplification construction work There are special calculator programs. They help calculate the correct amount of raw materials, saving buyers from unnecessary expenses. However, this invention is not always necessary, because in any case you will have to take measurements of the room. To avoid mistakes, it is important to take into account the maximum distance in length and width, checking it at several points on each wall.
If you have an assistant who can hold the tape measure, it is even more convenient: this way the measurement accuracy will be greater, because the edge of the metal tape will not slide or move.
All data should be immediately written down on paper, drawing a schematic drawing of the room in which the installation is being carried out. This is important in order to take into account the direction of the pattern and the addition of an allowance for the threshold, another protrusion (for example, for a battery, a niche) or the connection with the floor covering of the next room.
You need to focus on the largest indicators (this also applies to asymmetrical types of premises). Add 7 cm in length and width to the resulting measurements. This eliminates the risk of material shortages. If the canvas is not solid, they start from the length, taking into account an allowance of 7 cm, focus on two lengths, while not forgetting to give an allowance for joining.
Preparing the base
Floor preparation is an important installation condition. The final aesthetic perception depends on the quality of this stage. It’s not enough to buy a beautiful coating - it needs to be laid correctly and carefully.
The process includes several working steps.
- Preparation of the room (completely empty the room of furniture);
- Dismantling floor plinth And door frames(if they exist);
- Assessing the condition of the floor, leveling it in height, getting rid of cracks, holes, and bumps.
The type of installation matters. For example, if the linoleum will be placed on a concrete base, the surface must be perfectly flat.
If it is planned to be laid on fiberboard, the floor can be leveled using a mixture of cement and sand in the required proportions, masking the cracks pointwise. If the quality of the mixture leaves much to be desired, tile adhesive of the Ceresit or Yunis brands can be used as a cement composition. Their consistency is perfectly balanced, the mixtures are stirred without lumps, mask the floor surface evenly and do not crumble after drying.
It is not recommended to level the surface with gypsum-based levelers: if indoors high humidity, such a leveler will quickly move away from the floor in layers. It is designed for walls and does not provide for weight loading, so these experiments are devoid of common sense.
If for some reason water gets under the linoleum, this leveler will nullify the entire installation, adding work to re-lay the coating.
After the floor is leveled, it is vacuumed to remove dust and cement residues. It is important that it is dry and clean: if there are mixture residues on the surface, the floor under the linoleum in these places can creak and create unsightly bumps. Then you can start installation.
Preparation for installation
Preparatory stage Laying linoleum depends on the method of laying the material. Usually linoleum is laid on the wall without forming a bend, although the canvas is often wrapped on the wall, giving it the appearance of a kind of narrow plinth. The second method is used for finishing commercial flooring in industrial premises. This makes it easier to wash the floor without touching the wall. In this case, it is important to calculate the allowance for installing linoleum on the wall.
When performing flooring without bending, it is important to trim the canvas correctly. It is adjusted to the characteristics of a particular room in different ways: close to the baseboard or with a small gap to the walls.
- The first method allows you to leave the baseboard before laying, but requires the exact contour of the linoleum and its tight fit to the bottom edge. The plinth can be matched to the color of the linoleum.
- The second option is the best solution: often under the influence of various temperature conditions linoleum can stretch, so it needs a little space (0.5 cm) to lie flat without forming waves against the general background.
Linoleum can be laid on different floors.
- Parquet;
- Hardboard;
- Concrete floor;
- Old linoleum.
The following tools may be needed for installation.
- Roller;
- Metal slats;
- Ruler with corner;
- Cutting tool (construction knife);
- Welding tool;
- Spatula (for the glue method);
- Primer;
- Mastic;
- Cold welding adhesive (seam sealant).
The laying technology involves the preparation of linoleum. Since linoleum is in a roll for a long time, it must rest before installation. Before direct installation, it is spread on a flat surface and left for 2-3 days. During this time, the canvas takes an even position and allows for a more precise adjustment to the measurements of the room.
Soundproofing the floor in an apartment
To make the floor surface smoother and warmer, sound insulation is placed under the linoleum. This can be a subfloor on joists, leveling and insulating the base, or a soundproofing board, which is made when installing a new screed. However, most simple option sound insulation is a linoleum underlay, which is made from different materials and often complements the preparation of the floor on a heat and sound insulating base.
This stage is a necessity for installation, however, not all types of material are suitable for the job. It is worth paying attention to raw materials with an elastic structure and high shear resistance.
These include the following.
- Membrane sound-absorbing materials;
- Single-layer texaund made of aragonite and flexible polymers (available on felt base);
- Tear-resistant fiberglass without harmful impurities;
- Iso-noise (noise stop) with hydro- and thermal insulation properties;
- Isolon is a derivative of polyethylene foam;
- Cork backing from compressed ground balsa wood chips;
- Backing made of jute fibers.
Having prepared the base and taken care of the heat of the coating and sound insulation, proceed to installation.
DIY installation process
The installation technology depends on the type of surface. In small rooms with dimensions up to 20 square meters. m. linoleum is not glued to the floor surface. Flooring without glue is the simplest and is called dry. The main condition is a dry surface. The linoleum is placed on the floor, the edges are trimmed, the edges are attached to the base (if it is fiberboard or a wooden base, they can be nailed with tar paper nails at a distance of about 5 cm).
To prevent the edge from deteriorating over time, it is secured with aluminum strips, making holes in them the size of the nail heads.
In the case of a concrete base, holes are pre-drilled for plugs into which screws will then be screwed. However, if the house is damaged, over time the screws may lift up, disrupting the harmony of a perfectly level floor. In this case, it is enough to simply attach the linoleum around the perimeter. The joints are glued and sometimes nailed.
The second option looks less beautiful, so if you have the opportunity to buy a solid sheet, you should forget about saving: a monolithic floor is more practical.
Step by step instructions laying linoleum with glue involves two methods.
With separate drying
Before installation, back side the material is treated with a primer. This minimizes the number of bubbles that impede flawless operation. It is important to prime the base with an even layer without gaps and give the linoleum and base time to dry for about a day. Each surface is dried separately without touching. Then mastic is applied to the underside of the linoleum over the primer.
After this, the linoleum is placed on the floor surface and the flooring is smoothed, using a special roller for optimal fit, rolling it over the surface and evenly pressing the canvas to the floor.
To properly lay the material against the wall, you need to use a spatula, pressing the linoleum around the perimeter.
When there is little space
If it is not possible to dry the linoleum and the base of the floor separately, you can lay the canvas on the floor and bend it at least half a meter. The primer is carried out in parts, after which glue (mastic) is applied to the floor surface, although for reliability it is better to add an adhesive composition to the back side of the linoleum. To avoid too much glue, spread it over the surface with a spatula, removing excess.
When gluing the floor covering, it is rolled with a special heavy roller or wiped cork board. This eliminates air bubbles and promotes even distribution of the adhesive between the floor and the back of the covering.
Seam processing
A single sheet of material is pressed against the baseboards. However, if the coating has joints in a visible place, they are glued using “ cold welding", using special glue. The product is intended for filling seams; it can be transparent or match the color of the material. It is used with welding machine. In addition to “welding,” you can use linoleum profile tape to join the seams. She herself compresses together the coating inserted into her on both sides.
Laying linoleum tiles
Regarding tiled linoleum, its installation involves leveling the floor, otherwise the fragments will stand out against each other. After preparing the floor, it is primed and the center of the room is determined. To do this, pull the threads diagonally from the corners of the room. The first tile is placed in the center: glue is applied to its back side, while retreating from the edges of the fragment.
It is important to roll each piece with a roller. After gluing all the fragments, a sealant is applied to the surface of the coating.
To make your flooring look pleasing to the eye, look professional and respectable, you can take note of a few tips from experienced craftsmen.
- When laying marble-like or plain linoleum with joints, it is preferable to lay the canvas in the direction of the light: this way the coating will look monolithic;
- To glue the joints, you can use double-sided tape;
- It is better to purchase a primer with deep penetration: this way the adhesion of the two surfaces will be maximum;
- Using oil-chalk mastic, the base can be primed with drying oil;
- If the mastic is bitumen or rubber-bitumen, instead of a primer, you can use mastic diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1: 3;
- You cannot immediately unroll the roll and lay the material on an uneven floor: quality work cannot be rushed (both the material and the floor need preparation);
- If the linoleum is moving away from most of the base, it does not have enough mastic: you need to carefully remove the linoleum, clean it of the adhesive, re-prime and lay it.
Experts draw attention to the fact that for some types of floor coverings trademarks develop their own adhesive compositions. This factor matters: if you ignore the manufacturer’s recommendations and put linoleum on another glue, you can ruin the structure of the material. If this happens, a carpet that can be used to cover the floor will help save the matter.