DIY straight sofa. How to make a sofa with your own hands: drawings with dimensions, step-by-step instructions, video. The design manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Have you ever wondered whether it is possible to make an ordinary sofa at home, i.e. on our own? At first glance, such a question will seem unusual to us, since in any furniture store You can choose a suitable sofa for every taste and color. But if you think a little about, for example, what you will have to put from furniture for sitting in the same rest room in the bathhouse or on the country veranda, then the original question about a homemade sofa in country house won't seem so strange. In this article we will tell you how to make a sofa with your own hands from auxiliary materials.

Sofa made of timber

One of the options self-made a sofa in the country involves the use of timber for its construction, small trimmings of which are often left after construction is completed utility rooms. In addition to these blanks, you may also need the following material for work:

sheets of foam rubber, sold today in any specialized store;
zip fastener 210 cm long, used to make the cover;
three zippers of 70 cm each, used for making pillows;
any material like tapestry;
metal corner;
metal mesh.

The main work on assembling a sofa at home should begin with the construction of the base (supporting frame) of the structure, for the assembly of which we use the timber mentioned above. A block measuring 70x210 cm can be very convenient for making a frame; at the same time support legs for our frame it can also be made from four small pieces of this timber.

The second step towards achieving our goal is to make a reliable sofa backrest. Since initially this design option involves avoiding unnecessary design complications (not trying to make something like a folding system), we make the backrest according to the same scheme in which the frame base of the sofa was made. Such a frame back must be sufficiently rigidly fixed to the base using thick-walled metal corners. You will choose the optimal angle of inclination of the resulting backrest according to your own taste, but the main thing is that it does not turn out to be very steep (to avoid a feeling of discomfort).

At the next stage of our work, we will try to mount a support grid on the frame of the sofa, which would hold the seat cushions. For these purposes, armored mesh from metal beds, which were used by our grandfathers, is quite suitable (I was convinced own experience The fact is that, if you want, it is quite possible to find such a grid even today). After securely attaching such a mesh to wooden base(using ordinary metal staples) you get exactly what you need. Just don’t forget to cut four transverse bars into the longitudinal bars of the frame before fixing the mesh (the cut is best done using the tongue-and-groove method using special glue).

Let's now move on to manufacturing soft upholstery for our design.

After this, we stuff three large pillows with scraps of foam rubber, the covers for which are also made from pieces of tapestry sewn together with zippers.

Sofa made from ready-made panels

If you are not skilled enough in handling wood and other materials, you are offered another way to make a sofa on your own. To make it you will need:

two old door leaves;
metal staples;
tree stumps;
foam;
textile.

As the base and back of the proposed simplified design, two out-of-date sashes are taken wooden doors. All you need to do with them is just to clean them from dirt and process them using grinding.

Then you should cover them with several layers of paint, the color and texture of which are chosen arbitrarily (or to match the interior of the room where your sofa will be located). It is possible to finish the surface of the doors with wood-like veneer.

Firmly fix one of the doors using nails on wooden stumps of a suitable size and attach the back (second door) to it using metal brackets.

Then you can begin making the mattress, for which the foam rubber cut to fit the seat should be covered with some strong and rough fabric (calico or matting, for example). The top of such a seat can be covered with high-quality fabric with an unusual color. Then lay the finished mattress on the base of the structure and place several small pillows on it.

An improvised sofa of this type can fit well not only into the interior of your country veranda, but can also decorate any other country corner.

You probably noticed that the basis independent arrangement The options for sofa products we considered include the production of a reliable and strong load-bearing base (frame). This fact allows us to conclude that any other material that satisfies the specified basic conditions can be chosen as a base.

It's hard to imagine a house or apartment without a sofa. Most homes have this cozy and soft structure on which you can sit or lie. If you purchase or make a folding sofa with your own hands, the structure can also be used as a bed. Such a device can be used during the day as a place for short-term rest, and at night it can be used as a bed.

A folding sofa bed can be used as a short-term rest area during the day and as a bed at night.

First of all, you will need to decide what kind of design you want to make.

One of the most common types of sofas is the folding sofa. In this design, the sleeping area can be pulled out or rolled out from the bottom. To pull this place out, you will need to pull the hinges. Pillows can be placed on the retractable part of the sofa, which can be used as a backrest while the structure is folded.

Today, the most common design is the “flash” model sofa. In it, the back is a single soft base. When the sofa unfolds, the backrest or seat is placed on the pull-out part.

The roll-out corner structure is called a “dolphin”. This design is complex, as it consists of three components. In this case, the mechanism will work as follows: the corner seat, which is an integral element of a sofa of this type, is completely removed, as a result of which the sofa turns into a bed.

Any type of sofa has its advantages and disadvantages, and the retractable mechanism is no exception. The main advantage of such structures is a place to sleep large sizes. It should be noted that when folded, the structure has small dimensions. The disadvantage is that when unfolded the sofa is very bulky. From this we can conclude that such designs are not suitable for small rooms.

Materials and tools

In this case, we will consider an example of manufacturing a structure, the sleeping area of which has dimensions of 1880x1300 cm.

Tools needed for work: circular saw, tape measure, pencil, corner, drills, Phillips screwdrivers.

Making a folding sofa with your own hands is quite simple if you have minimal skills in furniture making. To make such a structure you will need the following elements:

The boards are 5 cm thick and at least 15 cm high.
Bars.
Corners.
The material that will be used for cladding the base.
Springs.
Foam rubber of great thickness.
Semi-matte varnish.
Hinges for doors.
Furniture panels made of pine.
Electric jigsaw.

Once all the elements are prepared, you can begin to work.

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Sequence of actions

Design of a folding sofa: A – assembled; B – disassembled; 1 - hinge; 2 - rollers of the retractable frame; 3.4 – lower and upper seat; 5,6 – rollers of the lower seat; 7 – frame; 8 – back of the sofa; 9 – retractable frame; 10 – spring; 11 – rear shield.

To make the back of the sofa, you will need to use a furniture panel. On this design, you will first need to mark the top of the curly edge using a pre-prepared template or pattern.
Next, you should cut out the opening in the shape of a diamond and the upper edge of the back according to the markings. This can be done by using an electric jigsaw. To be able to cut a diamond-shaped opening, you will need to pre-drill holes in the shield for an electric jigsaw.
Next, you will need to drill several holes near the obtuse corners of the diamond. IN sharp corners It is not allowed to turn the saw of an electric jigsaw.
After the cutting is done, you will need to remove saw marks from the edges.
Next, the remaining elements are cut out. furniture board. After completing the pattern, the parts will need to be carefully sanded. In the process of performing such an operation, it will be necessary to carefully fasten each element that is to be processed. To do this, the surface to be treated will need to be pressed against the board of the workbench.
With the help milling machine It will be necessary to round the front edges of all parts of the sofa. To do this, use the necessary profile cutter. If desired, the finished elements can be tinted. It is best to choose the color of the impregnation based on the overall decorative design. After this, all elements are coated with wear-resistant transparent varnish.
A wooden support block is fixed to the wall. The required dimensions of the folding structure and mounting height are determined based on the ease of use of the sofa. In accordance with the selected height, the height of the side supports of the seats that will be folded will be determined. First of all, the block needs to be secured in the middle so that it can be easily aligned horizontally.
At this level, the block is installed horizontally, and you will need to slowly rotate the device around the central screw. After this, the block is strengthened along the edges.
You will need to place a wooden strip on the support block, and then attach the seats to it on hinges that will fold. After this, the rail is screwed at the bottom to the block using self-tapping screws. Holes for self-tapping screws will need to be drilled in advance.
Next, mark the location of the hinges for the side supports of the seats, which fold inward. Using this marking, holes are made for the dowels, after which the hinges are secured with screws. After all the hinges are installed, you will need to attach the side supports of the seats to them.

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Another manufacturing option

The structure is assembled from three wooden elements, which are connected to each other by loops. Such fasteners allow the bases to change their relative placement. Two elements will be identical, and the third should be double-sided. All elements are lattice structures that are assembled from wooden planks or bars.

Assembly diagram for a folding sofa: 1 – side panel; 2 – additional pillow; 3 – back cushion; 4 – pull-out mattress; 5 – support beam; 6 – stool-stand; 7 – base box.

Each element has a frame, which consists of two longitudinal and transverse bars. The transverse planks will connect the longitudinal ones. Between the connecting elements you will need to install wooden planks that will form the lattice of the lounger. At one of the bases, the lattice will be installed from below, between the support strips.

This platform is a changeover. Its double-sidedness is justified in the process of folding the platforms in the sofa position: the lower part of the flip will be a seat. The structure is folded as follows: the shifter is raised and installed on the middle base, and the third base is installed vertically.

In order to secure it, you can use a fairly large number of different devices. A design is shown where a tightening cord is used as a fastening element. This element is threaded into the support bars of two bases.

Also shown are the joints of all elements, where 1 is the frame support beam, 2 is the supporting beam, 3 is the connecting element, 4 and 7 are the strips, 5 is the hinge, 6 is the fastening element, A is the lifting base-backrest, B is the middle base , B – lifting base-seat.

The cord can provide a reliable tie, since in the “back” position the base will be supported by a soft mattress, which is in the folded state. You can purchase a mattress ready-made or sew it yourself. In the latter case, you will need to use foam rubber and upholstery fabric.

There are cords at the bottom of the mattress, thanks to which, when folded, it is pulled to the vertical basis, playing the role of back and seat.

The next step is to install the back of the structure. It can be attached using double-sided self-adhesive tape, as it will not bear any force load. This can be done quite simply. If everything is done correctly, you will end up with outside there will be no traces of fastening elements. The back can be supplemented with a soft element made of foam rubber of small thickness, which will be located in the case. This way the sofa can be given a complete aesthetic look. In addition, it is much more comfortable to sit on such a structure.

The dimensions of the mattress must be chosen such that in the “bed” position the mattress can cover the entire structure.

You can see the design of the mattress, where 1 is a cover, 2 is foam rubber, 3 is fixing elements.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. IN small apartments a sofa can replace a bed, a wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take on them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, which are relatively low in functionality and are not particularly strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will be passed on to their grandchildren, unless they have to reupholster it. And designed for premises with the widest range of conditions of use: from garden gazebo to the kitchen and children's room.

This is not as difficult as it might seem and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for a summer house, a nursery, temporary use until you can get some money for furniture) is quite possible in a garage, barn and even on a balcony. This is how old-time furniture makers worked. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions during its manufacture can almost always be replaced by more labor-intensive ones that require skill with more ingenuity than that of a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor belt, but can be performed hand tools.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is the corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially clearly manifested in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping-living room sofa corner, pos. And in the figure, when folded, it does not have any sleeping appearance and the most orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (according to the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded it turns into a double bed. These are also called bachelors’ sofas: I’m tired, I don’t have the time – I’ll fall asleep in the one-room apartment. And the next (or forever only) passion has arrived - there is enough room for two to settle down, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, there is nothing complicated: a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa, uniformly designed and put together, like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in the corner is not only bad omen, but also inconvenient, so in recent years the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The layout of such a kitchen corner is shown in Fig. below. You can dine on it alone if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and trunks (as sofa boxes are called) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of household goods, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam diagram (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections is according to the location in the room; other sizes are standard, see below. The sidewall material is 40 mm hardwood board or 36 mm chipboard. The bottom of the sofa is 12-16 mm chipboard on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a 30 mm board, 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm beams (shelf supports). Assembly - with self-tapping screws, dowels and half-timber inserts, all with PVA or "Moment" sizing. At current prices, no more than 3,000 rubles worth of materials is required.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (load-bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - a sofa, if there is a lifting drawer, a backrest and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a drawer are added to them. Typical sofa sizes:

Length – 1200-1900 mm.
The width of the sofa is 550-700 mm.
The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
Back height, without extras. pillows – 200-700 mm.
Backrest tilt – 5-20 degrees.
The height of the “sitting” surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

Legs – 50-70 mm.
Support frame – 50-100 mm.
Box – 150-250 mm.
The bottom of the sofa (with frame) is 55-75 mm.

This leaves up to 120 mm for soft padding with sheathing. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work of making a sofa is its stuffing, upholstery and upholstery. These are different manufacturing operations; each of them separately and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves on the RuNet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with nonwoven materials(fleece, etc.), which in themselves are short-lived. Secondly, they are covered using a simplified system with the corners turned inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the covering. And most importantly, with this method of work there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for reupholstery; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, serious preparatory work will be required. Its essential subtleties will be described below; Beginners are advised to upholster a sofa using the old amateur method using saddle stitch fitting. The pros don't do much work for them, because... it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of heyday?), when you had to sign up for furniture reupholstery a year in advance, and even give a bribe, it was successfully used by “complete dummies.” The sofa is covered step by step like this:

The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (possibly propylene);
Install soft padding, most often foam mats;
They cover the soft material, in order of preference, with spandbond, padding polyester, or batting;
On a piece of decorative fabric, the drawstrings are swept under the cords, if decorative scars/straps are provided, see below;
The decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown over the product with the wrong side out, pulled in as described below, and the corners are swept away with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with the scar facing out;
After a day, check to see if the pattern is wrinkled, sagging, or distorted, especially geometric ones, and if necessary, adjust the angles;
If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
Tighten the cords into the drawstrings for tightening, if necessary;
Throw on the cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
After another day, check the drawing and adjust the tension threads;;
Everything is OK – the lapels are secured;
Decorative ties are formed.

The procedure, as we see, is quite complicated and lengthy. This is explained by the fact that the properties of fabrics, incl. upholstery, vary noticeably within a piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience; now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Homemade templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the fabric consumption. A rough estimate of the method: the length of a cut with a width of 150 cm is equal to 2 widths of the sofa + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the length of the cut using templates (allowance from 15 cm) saves lengths of up to 1 m (!); how much is it in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if you are reupholstering a sofa, it is not advisable to use it as a pattern old cladding. Under a microscope or magnifying glass, it is clearly visible that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same jacquard or tapestry from the same loom.

Paragraphs also require additional clarification. 1-3. If you stuff the skin hastily, wood-glue-sintepon-foam rubber-decor, then after a while you will find that the skin is greasy, sticky to the touch, especially in summer, and the dearest parts of the body feel uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what kind of lifespan is this for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads on both the bottom and top to remove evaporation/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and drawer, if the design of the item does not include any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. Fabric folds at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection because vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads are supported by additional loads. fasteners, see below.

Note: The famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of silent blocks in tracks came to his mind when he was renovating his sofa. It’s not surprising that the rich man tinkered with the furniture himself; Christie was an engineer of the second class. Ι genus rearranges pieces of paper at the table, and ΙΙth can do everything he comes up with with his hands.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the box (in the simplest case - piano/card hinges and a limiting cord). Perhaps the sofa will be hard with a loose mattress lying on it. In any case, the sofa is also covered separately in advance.

A special case is office sofas, etc., used in unfavorable conditions with the possibility of careless use. Their supporting system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for those who like to use the compounds shown there with confirmations obliquely. Subject to availability special equipment and “oblique screws” equipment are economical and technologically advanced and therefore widely used in industrial production furniture classes up to middle. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, drilling very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and in 2 mating parts at once is problematic, if not impossible. And self-tapping screws that move to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple beam sofa is shown in Fig. It is most suitable for a gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, the pillows are brought/taken away as they are used, and before assembly, the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (can be worked off) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion. Finish – acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

At the dacha, where rain still doesn’t pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a homemade sofa with a simplified beam system, its arrangement is on the left side of the trail. rice. Its basis is strong side armrests and a pair of cross beams. Completes the power circuit of the box-bridge; in this case, it is necessary to have 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

Armrests - 20-24 mm plywood with board overlays on top (to make them wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen) 30-36 mm chipboard.
Box – oak/beech board 30 mm; bottom – plywood from 6 mm.
Beam legs - any commercial wood.
The back is the same, shield, (300-400)x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled; this method will be useful to us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the timber beams, but also to the sidewalls from the inside using a zigzag (snake) in increments of 120-150 mm, with a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a larger proportion of dynamic alternating signs, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to pile the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon become loose. Assembled according to this scheme children's sofa with drawers, shown on the right in the figure; The diagram for assembling the boxes is there at the bottom right. The material of all lengths is oak/beech 30 mm; the sides and bottom of the sofa are plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - with glue.

Note: You shouldn’t use laminated chipboard - for children’s furniture only phenol class E0 is acceptable, but this material is quite fragile and will not last long in a loaded product like a sofa.

How to lift a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, you won’t be able to lift the sofa back: the back gets in the way. All that remains is to lift forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the owner is not two meters tall, how can she put/get something? Roll the whole thing into the box and squeak, kicking your slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly - it does not require high precision execution; the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique diamond with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa-ottoman with it, is shown in Fig.

Note: The author is aware of the curious case of an oblique rhombus. A drinking, but skilled man, while making this ottoman, fenced off the nooks behind the levers (they say, there are some kind of mechanics there too) and arranged in them hiding places for bottles with the required drink. I even brought out the tubes under the trim behind the back. And the better half was more than 10 years old, until he went into a deep hole and split up himself, and it was not clear why this faithful person was a loser every day, but did not run to the store for a bottle.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and also in the professional, world, innovative works appear here all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for folding out a classic sofa-book is quite capricious. Either it jams/seizes, then assembling/disassembling the sofa is difficult for ladies' hands, or it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the selected sample discovers that the rough-looking piece of iron has curved surfaces made with fairly high precision, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, amateurs most often make sofa beds as roll-out/pull-out ones.

Here, the most common are 2 systems, with a retractable half of the bed free, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles heel is its legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravity ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break; the sofa sagging when pulled out will help.

The bridge circuit is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also bedside tables. True, you will have to reach for them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep feet first.

The structure of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge circuit is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper pair of rollers (guides/stops) run in the grooves of the drawer. Pay attention to Det. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but simply a decorative overlay. The surfaces of sleeping halves A and B are, naturally, flush. The half of the stock A is often made to fold forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by the cover B. Then the small drawers D are opened. Lovers of “strawberries and cream” (erotomaniacs/nymphomaniacs, a surprisingly monotonous and primitive-minded public) consider them reliable hidden secret places and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: transforming a sofa into a bed requires some extra free space behind the backrest. This doesn’t happen in a small bedroom, and trash accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console design, now for some reason completely undeservedly relegated to the background, are deprived of this defect.

How the console sofa bed is arranged is shown in Fig. right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional widening of the console and increasing the height of the backrest, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal two-bed bed). The excess width of the assembled seat in this case is compensated by pillows, which when extended form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the utility room), they are stored in a box. Some tilt of the backrest is achieved due to the piano hinge, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood spacer under the lower hinge wing.

The main materials are 50x30 beams and 4-6 mm plywood. The armrests are based on solid waste construction timber. The console frame is of the same design as for the box. Connections - through tenons or met. corners, no matter. The height of the cushions is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, so for use in normal conditions it is advisable to increase the height of the console and place the box on legs.

About Eurobooks

The concept of the euro is no longer being discussed. Moldovans, for example (they have experience communicating with local guest workers) dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk with euros (to the point of death, to the point of a green serpent, blue devils and pink elephants), and go to the toilet with euros a lot (no constipation or diarrhea). And an ordinary folding sofa bed is now often on sale not just like that, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but a Euro-book sofa of the click-clack type (see picture) is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To create a double bed, the armrests and sides of the backrest also recline. It is not clear what to call them. It doesn't look like headrests. Podkonchniks, or something. When unfolded, triangular gaps form in the heads/legs, which are covered by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to lay out the click-clack in the bed, you need at least 0.7 m along its contour free space. Where can I get it? Perhaps in a studio apartment, the occupant of which is embarrassed to show that he also sleeps here. However, such a state of mind is typical for today’s, and not only today’s, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a sofa-book click-clack – well, that’s okay.

How to do it?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill and saw? Well, let's get started. Just don’t forget that what is being covered must be covered before general assembly. We’ll discuss how to cover something after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, and the making of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and drawer

In a professional, artisanal manner, so to speak, the supporting frame is assembled on blind tenons with wedging and gluing. They provide a completely hidden connection and furniture on these lasts for centuries, but to make them you need hand router woodworking skills, or mastery of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inserted legs, pos. 1 in Fig. This is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Beam cross-section from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 using glue.

The box is best assembled on triangular section bosses from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened to the box boards (oak/beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0)x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with sizing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you take the time to assemble the box on dowels, a pair per joint, before installing the bosses.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the staples of the stapler do not fit into it well, many bend and tear the casing; wallpaper nails too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile and delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet and may simply fall through, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to reupholster the sofa, the chipboard/fibreboard bottom will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material will be torn apart so that you can no longer attach the new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick, impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if you need a box without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood as wide as the length of the sofa are not produced. The pieces need to be connected so that the joint is supported by the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are scraps that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of quality furniture plywood sheets connected by a shaped plank made of hard wood, at the top at pos. 3. You can make the “shape” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its internal width). The gusset is fastened from the inside to the frames (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-shaped beam made of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less thick than plywood. It will give rigidity to the beam, and without it, the sheets assembled end-to-end will begin to mutually delaminate each other under work loads. Everything is assembled on small nails and secured in a box like a gusset.

Connect the box to the frame (remember, after the lining, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough to prevent it from sliding to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to the dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle on the short sides and 2-3 evenly along the length on the long sides.

Note: if the drawer is without bulkheads, the back height should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back drawer drawer will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (item 1 in the figure) is spar A made of hard board (120-150) x 40 mm. Most often, to simplify the work, it is made of sections, but a solid one will be stronger. This one is cut flush into the vertical posts and placed first on the dowels. It is also advisable to assemble the entire frame first on dowels, and then fasten it at the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. The bosses in this case can simply be scraps of timber, because The internal volume of the backrest is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the support frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 – the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of the bottom slab made of oak, etc. – from 40 mm. It, together with the spar and rectangular parts of the racks, makes up the lower backrest belt. This is a very responsible node, because The normal operating load of people reclining tends to tear it away from the lower support.

The normal number of stands for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pieces. evenly along the length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. also covers the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the outermost ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the backrest is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm. His “responsibility” is necessary when people stand on the back to reach something above or when the sofa is dragged by the back when moving furniture. Also here the upholstery is most likely to creep and wrinkle, so the top beam is planed into one plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can also be made of pine.

The production of the backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. This is necessary to give the entire module the necessary rigidity for a strong connection with the support, but there is no need to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare poses. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously worsens the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this backrest to the support? Self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards? How long will a sofa like this last before the back comes off?

Connection to support

Assembling a backrest with a support is exactly the case when metal fasteners in furniture are necessary. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back parts with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the drawer/frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads into the drawer/frame), 3 of each per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are still springs under the nuts; it won’t be possible to tighten them later!

You need 2 corners for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of greatest load (towards the spar), evenly along the length, and 1-2 horizontal at the bottom. It’s better to have 2, in case the sofa is dragged by the back. For fastening to the spar, it is better to use unequal angles 60x40 with holes in a narrow flange, located in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued with foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely covered. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to insert the folds of the upholstery into the joint of the backrest and the support, and it will not be possible to cover it after installing the armrests.

Armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or framed like a backrest. They are also fully completed before installation. The load on them is less, so they are attached from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm with an envelope or a snake to the box, and 4-6 pieces to the support. in a row.

Armrests of complex shapes are most often made of frames. In fact, technologically they are not that complicated, pos. And in Fig. The decor on the inside reaches the bottom edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional. sheathing made of slats approximately 30x40 and liners made of boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The sheathing is cut into the backrest posts, and the inserts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame made of 70x50 timber with at least 1 cross members for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-timber insert and reinforced with self-tapping screws using glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars should be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see figure), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, in this case 50 mm of foam rubber disappears, but there is a significant advantage when covering it: staples/nails do not scratch the top of the drawer, and thanks to the extra bending, the covering of the sofa (the most loaded) lies more evenly and holds tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a fold, as in Fig. on the right is a common method, but therefore no better quality. According to GOST USSR, turned upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching corners of furniture fabrics is done in two ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second for those more susceptible to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But keep in mind that the numbers in Fig. approximate, fitting with a sketch is required!

The covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (bends) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoehorn. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam; when sewing, it is folded back and left free.

Next comes tightening. If the corners have tongues, then the sheathing is leveled with them, and the tongues are secured. Then they pull the cover with a strong thread from the bottom along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, tightening the threads, achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is straightened with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as expected, fasten the edges with a distance of at least 5 cm from the edge of the fabric. If the type of product allows, fasten with a hem.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the drawer are upholstered as shown in Fig. The drawer is on 3 sides, the back remains open. This is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles with a height of approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press down the fabric. As a last resort, the sofa blank is placed on a couple of stools. It won't be possible to simply cover the back, because... it is already attached to the support. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of connection with the box, from under the bottom it is pulled on the trestles, like a sofa, and to tighten it from the sides, you will have to temporarily drive small nails into the support. Well, the armrests can be moved as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Individual cushions for a sofa are sewn in the same way as blocks of a frameless chair:

The foam mat is covered with technical fabric;
Sew the decorative cover inside out, leaving the final (lower back) seam unsewn;
2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastened towards each other;
Insert the foam block into the decor and fasten the zippers.

Drawstrings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the seams between them. But a flat sofa does not harmonize with every design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with drawstrings, see fig. There are also 2 options available here, for lighter and denser fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn onto the edges of the cover under the drawstrings, and the drawstrings themselves are made when the cover is already secured. According to the 2nd option, the front scenes (tunnel sleeves) are sewn onto the workpiece under the cords and an even tension is achieved by alternately pulling the cords and the tension threads of the cover.

Beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is with decorative scars, see fig. You also need to sew scenes under them, but it is better to fill them with flexible multi-core electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (possibly vertical) wooden surface of a suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or doghouse.

The ends are stripped of 25-35 mm of insulation, twisted with British twist (British, shaved, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently exposed wire core does not dig into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

A one-piece sofa cover is already aerobatics wallpaper business. However, what if a shabby but strong sofa made of mahogany or Karelian birch appears in your grandmother’s attic? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect smart connoisseurs. If you talk to them knowledgeably, they will charge a moderate fee and put their heart and soul into their work.

In such a case, as they say in “1001 Nights”, know that the basis for tightening a one-piece cover is the lines where the sofa connects with the armrests and backrest. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. The cords are routed along the bisectors of flat angles (external) and the trisectors of triple (internal) angles along grooves in the wooden frame and, for triple angles, through holes in it. The cords are moderately stretched, their ends are secured and then the cover is straightened and pulled.

The drawstrings for the cords can be, depending on the design, front or back. The last case is the most difficult; the drawstring seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: generally a machine - main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check whether it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than No. 20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

What about simpler?

As you can see, making and upholstering a sofa is not a big deal. Isn’t it possible to do something quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, in new apartment? To throw on any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called a sofa made of pallets. In general, a lot of things are made from construction pallets - pallets, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive, seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack from pallets can be made much more convenient by using the same principle garden chair Adirondack type, on the left in Fig. It’s a little more difficult to use them to build a rustic-style pull-out sofa bed in the center. And if you press harder (with a tool, not a glass), you can get a sofa that you can’t immediately tell is from a discarded container, on the right. For example, see what a sofa was made by a seemingly completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: DIY pallet sofa

This happens... with sofas...

Since we're talking about packaging, let's finish with a funny sofa. No comments are required, what is shown in Fig. speaks for itself. And it stands somewhere, they sit on it, they lie...

Sofa in modern apartments is the most important design element. Retail stores often charge exorbitant prices for good quality furniture that matches the interior in color and shape. Making a sofa with your own hands costs much less, and its manufacture will not cause difficulties.

Materials used

Depending on the desired model of the piece of furniture being created, the place where it will be installed in the future and its purpose, you can choose completely different materials. To make a simple sofa, you can use several wooden pallets or pallets. Furniture from them is made quite simply, is cheap and is at the peak of popularity today. You just need to complement the resulting sofa made from pallets with soft pillows, and it will turn into an excellent resting place for a Loft-style room or become an indispensable piece of furniture for installation on the veranda of a country house.

Material for the manufacture of another one of the simplest and most cost-effective options homemade sofa The most ordinary cardboard can be used. Old cardboard boxes, for example, from household appliances, pieces of bookbinding cardboard, corrugated cardboard - everything can be used. The main difference between such a sofa will be that in this model not a single nail or screw will be used; the parts of the sofa will be fastened together using wood glue. Since cardboard is easy to cut, you can get furniture of any shape and size. In addition, such a design will weigh less than a sofa on a full wooden frame.

Wooden boards as a material they open up a huge field for creativity. From them you can create a full-fledged folding sofa with any chosen mechanism, make it like frameless option, and furniture on a strong wooden frame, to create a comfortable sleeping bed or just a place for gatherings with friends. The abundance of types of wood offered for sale in specialized stores and the thickness of the boards used allows you to adjust the weight finished product, its strength and functional features. Wood can also be used to make interesting non-standard models furniture for relaxation. So, you can easily make a hanging sofa swing. It can be an excellent option, for example, for a gazebo or veranda. Slow rocking and soft pillows will create a relaxing effect and provide real rest from pressing problems.

You can also make a completely new piece of furniture by restoring an old frame. Sanding and impregnating wood with a special solution will help renew the old wood material and create the basis for a future project.

In addition to the material for the frame, depending on the model being made, you may also need material for the upholstery. Here, dense upholstery materials, which are most often used for the production of upholstered furniture, will come to the rescue. The choice will be determined by the interior design, the amount that the master will be willing to allocate for materials and the functions assigned to the sofa.

The most popular upholstery materials:

Genuine Leather- one of the strongest and most durable materials, it adds sophistication and solidity to manufactured furniture, but it is high in cost and requires special tools to connect parts.
Eco leather- a material that has all the advantages of genuine leather, among the advantages are lower cost and a larger range of colors.
Leatherette– the cheapest analogue of leather, quite durable, environmentally friendly and stylish. Among the disadvantages is the fear of mechanical damage.
Chenille- a convenient fabric for craftsmen who do not have much experience in sewing, since it does not stretch or slip, but at the same time has a high degree of wear resistance.
Velours- a soft and pleasant-to-touch material, it also belongs to materials that are convenient for sewing, but it also has a significant drawback - stains are quite difficult to remove from such fabric and it is very difficult to care for.
Tapestry– dense and durable double-sided material with a pattern. You can buy it in absolutely any fabric store, but you need to remember that a sofa with such upholstery cannot tolerate direct sun rays, since the fabric fades quite quickly.
Jacquard- durable, pleasant to the touch material reminiscent of silk. Has a characteristic shine. When choosing, it is worth considering that when sewing, the material may slide and you will have to make some effort to ensure that the product being made is beautiful and neat.

When choosing a material, it is also worth considering how the upholstery will be stitched. If you plan to sew the cover on a regular sewing machine, rather than industrial, it is more appropriate to choose thinner fabric materials. When fastening parts made of thick furniture leather or leatherette on a machine not intended for heavy materials there is a risk that the machine will not sew them or even break down.

A homemade sofa, if the idea suggests this, should have a soft, comfortable seat. For this you will need a special material - filler. You can use it as:

Foam rubber– one of the softest furniture fillers, moreover, it has a low cost and is available for purchase in retail stores.
Polyurethane foam or PPU- a relative of foam rubber, however, it has a denser structure, and therefore furniture filled with polyurethane foam is quite rigid.
Sintepon – soft synthetic material white, most often used as insulation or as cheap way soften the surface.
Batting– soft filler with a high cotton content, and therefore is a material that allows air to pass through well.

In addition, a spring block can be installed inside the sofa seat, which will extend the service life and improve the functional qualities of the furniture. The springs for such a block can be dependent and fastened to each other like a snake, or they can be independent - in this version, each spring exists separately and has its own individual cover.

If you plan to make the sofa extendable, you definitely need to purchase a folding mechanism. They exist in the following types:

"book";
"Eurobook";
"tick-tock";
"accordion";
"roll-out";
"dolphin";
"conrad".

In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws and wood glue, which will easily and firmly glue wooden frame, you will definitely need thick threads for stitching the upholstery parts.

Some useful tools include an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver, a furniture stapler, and a sharp knife for cutting foam rubber.

How to do it at home?

Any homemade project it is necessary to start with an idea - choosing a model and determining the purposes for which this piece of furniture will be used. If you plan to use the sofa as a main or additional bed, it is better to opt for a sliding model; therefore, you need to take care of purchasing a folding mechanism, selecting a denser and quality material upholstery, as well as the use of a full-fledged spring block at the base of the furniture. If the homemade sofa will be used strictly for sitting or as an element of the furnishings of a cottage, garden house, or placed on a terrace, you can experiment with the materials of both the upholstery and, in principle, the entire sofa. Massive sofas made of timber, modern sofas made of pallets, unusual ones made of cardboard, with or without armrests - any option can be appropriate and successfully created with your own hands.

So, when the type of future sofa has been chosen, its purpose has been indicated, a general plan has been drawn, dimensions have been outlined, you can begin purchasing materials and directly creating what you want.

Creating a sofa with your own hands includes the following steps:

selection and purchase of materials;
creating a frame;
upholstery.

Of course, depending on the type of design chosen, actions may change, be added, or be completely eliminated.

From pallets

So, in order to make a sofa from pallets, you need a very minimal set of materials and tools. You will need several pallets; if desired, they can be sanded and painted desired color, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a jigsaw, plus material for pillows that will serve as a soft back and seat for such a sofa. For armrests, it is necessary to cut off the outer parts of pallets with thick wooden inserts. These short parts must be stacked on top of each other and secured with screws, after which the finished armrests must be attached to the already prepared base. The best option is 3 cuts stacked on top of each other, but if desired, their number can be changed, which will help achieve the desired height of the armrests.

The base can have either one pallet or several connected with screws; the choice will depend on the size of the sofa you plan to get in the end.

Next, from foam rubber or other selected material, you need to use a sharp knife to cut two rectangles to fit the size of the seat of the future sofa. After the foam has been successfully cut, you need to start covering the seat. There are several methods: the upholstery can be sewn using a machine or by hand, and also secured using a furniture stapler. The same manipulations must be repeated when making foam cushions for the back of the sofa.

If the sofa will stand against the wall, then its production can be completed here, but if leaning the sofa against the wall is not meant, then the backrest must be attached to the finished frame. To do this, you need to take one or two more pallets, depending on the number used to make the seat, and screw it using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to the back of the sofa, after which you can replace the pillows and enjoy your homemade interior renovation.

Homemade “book”

This is a more difficult option to produce, requiring more materials, time and effort. It is necessary to begin production by determining the exact dimensions of the future interior element; for convenience, they must be written down on a sketch prepared in advance. In addition, you need to stock up on materials, you will need:

boards 25-30 mm thick for making a frame;
beam;
foam;
padding polyester or batting;
upholstery fabric;
plywood;
sofa legs;
sofa mechanism;
wooden slats;
glue;
self-tapping screws;
staples for furniture stapler.

In addition to the above materials, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. So, you will need:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
furniture stapler;
screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil.

When you have all the listed materials and tools, you can begin manufacturing. This production involves a fairly large amount of debris and dust, so it is better to carry out all work on garden plot, street, or in the garage.

The first step is to assemble the frame of the future laundry box; to do this, you need to assemble a rectangle from boards of the required length (the length of the box is 30 cm, less than the final length of the sofa along with the armrests). After the main frame is assembled, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse slats; a sheet of plywood is attached to the bottom of the frame using self-tapping screws as a base. From boards of the same length it is necessary to assemble two more rectangles with transverse reinforcing slats - these will be the frames of the seat and back of the future sofa. It is necessary to attach wooden slats to these frames using a screwdriver - the basis for the future mattress. It should be remembered that all lamellas must be located at an equal distance from each other.

The next stage is the manufacture of armrests. Four armrests of the selected size and shape are cut out of plywood, then a beam is installed around the perimeter to strengthen the structure on two copies, after which the two remaining shapes are fixed on top of the beam. Next, the individual parts of the sofa frame are assembled into one whole, at the same stage a special layout mechanism is attached.

There are several simple rules that will help with assembly:

When unfolded, the distance between the back and seat of the sofa should not be less than 1 cm;
In a folded structure, the seat should under no circumstances protrude beyond the attached armrests.

Next, the finished frame is covered with foam rubber, which must be chosen based on personal preferences, since there are different structures and thicknesses of the material. After foam rubber, for greater strength and softness of the furniture, the frame is sheathed with padding polyester or batting. At this stage, the most creative part of the work begins. Using a sewing machine, you need to sew a cover from upholstery fabric. Such covers are usually sewn to the size of the sofa parts and put on them; shrinkage occurs using zippers.

An alternative to this method is to nail the upholstery fabric directly to the frame using staples and a furniture stapler. This method allows you to attach the fabric exactly along the frame with less time. The sofa book is ready. All that remains is to install it in the most prominent place in the room, perhaps even building a special podium for it, because a thing made with your own hands should evoke the pride of the inhabitants and the envy of those who do not have such an exclusive piece of furniture.

New furniture from old

When you have an old, sagging and uncomfortable sofa at home that you hate to throw out, you can create a new piece of furniture from it. First you need to remove the old upholstery, carefully so as not to tear it, because in the future it will become a pattern for the new one. Next, remove the filler (foam rubber, polyurethane foam, or any other) from the frame if sleeping place on the spring block, then remove it too.

Clean off the remains of the old filler from the frame and sand it with sandpaper - and now the frame is completely new. Next comes the replacement of the springs, if required by the sofa model.

After the new spring block takes its place, it is necessary to return the filling to the sofa - the frame is pasted with foam sheets required size. The final stage of the transformation will be reupholstering the sofa with new material. To do this, you need to cut out the material using the old pattern, sew the parts, put the finished cover on the workpiece and shoot it with a furniture stapler. If desired, you can complement the new thing with soft pillows made of suitable fabric.

Where to place it?

The placement of a homemade sofa is determined by several factors, such as:

Room style;
Functional features of the piece of furniture itself;
Owner's taste preferences.

Thus, a sofa made of pallets, which is so relevant today, will fit perfectly on a balcony or terrace; a comfortable, stylish seat will enliven the interior and you will want to spend more evenings there, wrapped in a blanket and contemplating the stars in the sky. In addition, such sofas can become the highlight of a Loft-style room.

A wooden sofa swing created by yourself can be placed in a gazebo in the country, you just need to remember that since it will be exposed to natural factors, the wood used for manufacturing must be treated with a special protective impregnation. Folding, full-size sofas with laundry boxes, created with your own hands, can be placed in the bedroom or in garden house, you just need to select the appropriate upholstery material for manufacturing, which will look harmonious in the interior of the room.

Simple frameless, non-folding sofas will be an excellent option for the kitchen or living room, especially if such a sofa has a corner shape. Here you need to pay attention special attention on the selection of fabric - it should not absorb odors and be picky about cleaning. You can also treat the upholstery with a special coating that will repel water and reduce the flammability of the material. In addition, in the guest room or on the loggia you can place furniture made with your own hands from cardboard. However, it is worth remembering that such models are sensitive to moisture and do not accept wet cleaning or contact with liquids.

However, if you created a sofa with your own hands, you definitely don’t need to hide it; you should definitely place it in the most visible place in the room, if, of course, materials that match the overall interior of the room were used when creating it.

First of all, it is necessary to develop detailed project future sofa. Definition overall dimensions, exact height of the backrest, armrests, seat depth and others important elements must be reflected on the plan. It would be great if it existed in both written and electronic versions. When determining the dimensions, it is necessary to remember that, for example, the height of the seating area directly depends on the location of the furniture, and kitchen corners are usually slightly higher than those pieces of furniture that are used for relaxation. Once the plan is developed, you can turn your attention to materials. To create a frame, experts advise paying attention to wooden beams or sections of profile furniture pipe. With it, the frame will be even more durable, and the sofa will last a long time.

If foam rubber was chosen for the internal filling, it is necessary to choose non-loose and fairly thick cuts. The ideal thickness for homemade furniture starts from 15 cm, otherwise the foam rubber will need to be replaced too quickly, for which you will have to disassemble the entire structure. The same rule applies to the restoration of old furniture. As for remodeling old furniture, the main parting word here is that the sofa needs to be photographed before disassembly, plus, photos of the disassembly process itself will be useful - this simple action will help in the future to assemble a new similar item, and not to guess what is attached where.

If the idea of assembling a sofa yourself comes for the first time and there is no experience in this, you should not chase complex designs, it is better to start with the simplest straight forms. And in order to feel the wood, tools and fabric, it is better to start with an ordinary stool, so to speak, to test your strength on it. After all, it is better, if something happens, to remodel a smaller form rather than large-sized furniture.

It always brings joy when we acquire something new for our home, for example, furniture . Every apartment or house must have armchairs, a sofa, ottomans, and chairs. We use them all the time.

It's hard to imagine an apartment without a sofa, armchairs and other upholstered furniture.

Time passes, the upholstery becomes ugly, wears off in places, holes, stains, traces of paint, felt-tip pens, and plasticine stuck in places appear. All this remains, especially when there are small children in the house. They will take furniture to the extreme in just a few months. The stains cannot be cleaned, the holes cannot be mended, even a bedspread will not save you from their pranks, except perhaps a Euro-cover. Furniture becomes unusable and ceases to decorate the interior.

After a few years, the upholstery may lose its former attractiveness, become unusable and no longer fit into the interior of the room.

Many people simply get rid of it, throw it in a landfill or take it to their country house. Others, on the contrary, cannot get rid of the old furniture simply because it’s comfortable or it’s a shame to throw it away, but there’s simply no way to buy a new sofa or chair. What to do in such cases? There is only one thing left - to restore, make sofa reupholstery . Of course, you can turn to specialists, but it’s easier and much more profitable, in order to save your budget, to do it yourself.

Not everyone knows that reupholstering a sofa with your own hands is not a very difficult task.

It’s a big plus if the sofa has a high-quality base. Old items furniture much better than those that are produced now.

Replacing the upholstery will not take much time and effort.

Furniture restoration at home has some advantages.

Are you reupholstering a sofa? any material you like, and you can add pictorial elements to your liking.
When performing work to replace the upholstery, you can repair the frame or spring unit if necessary.
Outdated sofas, as a rule, are the strongest and best quality, prevailing in all properties over modern furniture.
By doing this work yourself, you will not spend big money, and a new sofa or chair costs much more.
You don’t have to throw your favorite soft corner into a landfill because it has become unusable.

It’s worth deciding whether you will reupholster the sofa yourself, in which case the work will take more time, or trust the specialists, they will do it in a short period, perhaps at your home, without transporting it to a workshop.

Deciding on the design

To change appearance old sofa, you can sew a new cover, make pillows, capes of a wide variety of models. Furniture will sparkle with new colors. If required constriction , then it can be done partially by replacing some upholstery elements. There are many varieties here - from typical to creative.

It is important that everything is in harmony.

A cape made using the patchwork technique will look extraordinary. You can make an unusual applique and glue it to the upholstery. For sofa reupholstery denim will do textile or artificial leather. The most commonly used furniture tapestry, high-quality leatherette, leather, special synthetic velor, artificial fur with a strong base, and furniture jacquard. It is quite possible to sew removable covers from clothing fabrics.

If the sofa is not intended for decoration, but for relaxation of all family members, then you will need strong upholstery that will last for quite a long time.

Required materials

To begin work on replacing old upholstery, the first step is to decide which textile you choose the color scheme, with or without a pattern, artificial or natural material. There are many different furniture fabrics.

Each fabric has technologically advanced and multifunctional quality levels.

Let's decide what materials will be needed. Besides the fabrics Need accessories, foam rubber required thickness, piping to cover the seams, felt, padding polyester or batting as a filler, zipper, marker needles, decorative buttons.

Required Tools

Selected fabric - it needs to be taken with a margin for the possibility of error, now let's prepare the tools that will be needed: a sewing machine, a set of needles, strong threads (polyester), a flat-head screwdriver, a hammer, an anti-stapler to remove old staples, pliers, wrenches (from 8 to 19 mm), side cutters, furniture stapler, scissors, staples (6-8 mm), sewing meter, square, metal ruler, chalk, screwdriver, drill, glue.

The necessary set of tools.

The reupholstering process: step-by-step instructions

All work is divided into stages. First you need to disassemble furniture . We remove all pillows, cushions, and decorations. Then using necessary tools separate the back and sides of the sofa.

Disassembly with removal of individual components in the form of pillows, sides, poufs.

We dismantle the seat and separate furniture from the base. The parts needed for fastening need to be placed in some container; they may be needed.

All fasteners are placed together so as not to lose them.

The next step is to remove the worn upholstery using an anti-staple gun or a flat-head screwdriver. old textile You can leave it - it will be easier to cut out patterns using it. We remove dirt and dust accumulated inside. Old foam rubber should be thrown away and replaced with new one.

The work requires some care so as not to tear the old covering and use it as a pattern for cutting out parts from new fabric.

Let's look at the condition of the spring block and frame. If necessary, we carry out repairs. We strengthen all the joints and tighten the screws.

All screws must be carefully tightened, the joints of the parts must be strengthened, and the wooden joints must be glued.

On old fabric We cut out new patterns from the selected material, leaving seam allowances. We fasten the parts with special needles and grind them onto sewing machine. If you don't know how to sew, entrust the work to a seamstress.

The result of the entire reupholstery of the product largely depends on the quality of the new patterns.

Now you need to cover the sofa. We attach new upholstery to each individual part, starting with decorative elements, then the seat, sides, back. We carry out the tension carefully so that there is no distortion, using a stapler in the work.

In order not to make a mistake with the amount of material, it is recommended to buy it with a small margin.

The fabric on the sofa parts is stretched evenly so that there are no distortions.

Four centimeters - this should be the gap between the staples. Use the remaining material at your discretion. We attach the foam rubber, and its remains will be useful for upholstering other furniture.

Having finished with the reupholstery, we assemble the structure, return the legs and other fittings to their place.

How to cover a sofa with your own hands?

The most significant point in this work is the acquisition of the required quantity fabrics . You can roughly calculate how much you need by adding the length and width of the sofa and multiplying the resulting amount by two. For example, a sofa has a size of 2 x 1.8, then you will need to buy 7.6 m of fabric. To find out exactly, draw the layout necessary elements, taking into account the fractional direction. You need to be very careful when calculating corner sofas, because they have a complex shape.

When choosing fabric, you should avoid synthetic and very coarse varieties.

It must be remembered that material with a large pattern or stripes must be cut in one direction; accordingly, fabric costs will increase. It is very important to consider seam allowances. You definitely can't go wrong if you buy upholstery textile with a margin of one meter. It is worth considering the fact that you will need to change the filler. Compacted foam rubber and a layer of padding polyester are quite suitable for this purpose.

The structure of some pieces of furniture may include parts filled with thick foam rubber. This causes certain difficulties. To avoid this, foam rubber is wrapped in thin padding polyester, then attached and wrapped in upholstery fabric.

High-quality foam rubber has very small pores in its structure. After squeezing with your hand, it immediately straightens and takes its previous shape.

How to reupholster a sofa with your own hands competently and avoid mistakes when sewing parts? It will be better if you familiarize yourself with master classes, watch video and photo lessons, and read the necessary information on the Internet.

This will help to quickly and thoroughly complete necessary work and assemble the parts correctly.

The final stage is decoration

The sofa is the most important piece of furniture. We gather on it with the whole family, relax after work, watch TV, sometimes it’s just great to lie around, closed in a cozy blanket. Its color scheme is significant in the design of the room.

How to make an old sofa sparkle with new colors?

To begin with, you can change the area around the furniture, for example, change the wallpaper or stick photo wallpaper. Picturesque prints will look original. They decorate pillows - choose some image and apply it to the cover. This is best done in a workshop.

You can sew stripes or squares yourself, using fabrics of different colors, or combine them.

Most ideal option- This is a replacement cover. If you don't want to sew it yourself, buy it at the store. Now there is a very large selection of different color range and models. They have different features, including water-repellent ones, and even those that don’t mind the sharp claws of your pets. Well, the simplest option is to cover the sofa with a blanket or two.

This will create a cozy atmosphere that sets you up for relaxation.

Pillows with new covers of different colors will add some zest to the sofa. Saturated shades are best placed in the center, neutral shades are preferable at the edges. If you like a style such as eclecticism, then feel free to use all your imagination - combine incompatible things. Cushions can be square, round or triangular, large and small, different colors, different fabrics, even fur.

The color of the pillows can be matched to the curtains, lampshade, and chair.

Padding furniture is a fun activity that doesn’t present any particular difficulties. The main thing is to do everything according to the rules, and you will have an original one at home. old furniture, which will serve for many years to come.