A true master looks with contempt at the wretched plastic chairs placed on summer cottage. There is nothing more alien than plastic among flowers and plants. In the middle of nature, a DIY garden chair made from noble wood, most suitable for outdoor recreation, will look much more natural. In addition, working with wood does not require any special skills, such as welding or forging.
This comfortable garden chair was designed 100 years ago
- First of all, the chair must be transportable, so that in case of bad weather it can be quickly moved under the roof.
- For garden furniture need to choose wood hard rocks– beech, oak, walnut. Pine, aspen, cedar, and larch are little susceptible to rotting. The disadvantage of pine is its sensitivity to mechanical stress. The slightest blow is enough to create a dent that will be difficult to remove.
- Because the country furniture is exposed to the sun for a long time, and may even get caught in the rain, measures should be taken to protect the material. Before work, the board is placed in a stack, under a canopy, pressed on top with something heavy and left to dry. If you managed to purchase dry, high-quality lumber, even better. The sawn blanks are polished, impregnated with an antiseptic, then with hot drying oil. Dry and coat with varnish for exterior use.
- The relief texture of the tree depends on the number of knots and undeveloped branches. The more there are, the more decorative the cut. The polished surface of such a board will resemble a flock of strolling grape snails.
- When assembling a chair for a summer house with your own hands, all fasteners must be embedded in the wood to avoid scratches and puffs on clothing.
Preparatory stage of work
Materials and tools for making a garden chair
All blanks, except for the insert strips, are cut from cedar boards 20 mm thick. Product details:
- Rear legs measuring 20x254x787 mm - 2 pcs.
- Front legs 20x76x533 mm – 2 pcs.
- Armrest support 20x127x406 mm – 2 pcs.
- Chair back 20x279x914 mm – 1 pc.
- Jumper 20x51x589 mm – 1 pc.
- Rear armrest support 20x76x610 mm – 1 pc.
- Insert strips 12x20x254 mm – 2 pcs.
Consumables
- Hardwood dowels 24x60 mm – 30 pcs.
- Brass screws ∅4.5x50 mm – 20 pcs.
- Brass screws ∅4.5x32 mm – 20 pcs.
- 220 grit sandpaper.
- Polyurethane glue.
- Drying oil and furniture varnish.
- Cardboard for stencil.
- Masking tape.
Tools needed for work
- Circular Saw.
- Manual frezer.
- Plane.
- Hacksaw.
- Drill.
- Screwdriver.
- Sander.
- Clamps.
- Tape measure, ruler, pencil.
Making a garden chair
Cutting out the back legs and back
Before us detailed drawing with explanations of how to cut and assemble a country chair with your own hands. Consulting it, we mark and cut out the blanks for the chair.
Detailed drawing of a garden chair (click to enlarge)
For the back legs, backrest, armrests and seat we will need wide panels. We obtain them by gluing boards selected according to the texture and color of the wood. We select grooves for the keys at the ends in advance, ensuring that they are positioned in such a way that the keys are invisible after finishing cutting the parts.
Sawing out the hind legs. We carry out the work using a stencil cut out of cardboard. We attach the template to the blank for the leg and trace it with a pencil. Having connected and tied together two blanks with masking tape, we cut out both rear legs at the same time. We cut them out with a small margin. We adjust the parts to size using a plane or router.
We cut out the back. We cut the workpiece so that the glue seam between the boards is in the middle of the panel. We bevel the lower end of the backrest at an angle of 12.5° - it should correspond to the profile of the rear legs. We round the entire top edge to a radius of 9 mm. After this, you can begin assembling the product, cutting out and adjusting the remaining elements in place. Having learned how to make country chairs with your own hands, you can easily open your own business.
Cut out the remaining parts and assemble the garden chair
We attach the rear legs to the back using 50 mm long screws and glue. We drill holes for fasteners in advance, otherwise the workpieces may crack. The side ends of the backrest are connected to the legs at an angle of 12.5°. We close the gaps between the parts with insert strips, giving them the appropriate profile. The coincidence of the ends of the planks with the opposite ends of the legs will mean that the backrest has occupied correct position. We also screw the inserts to the back with 50 mm screws.
Garden chair: back view
The strength of the seat depends on the location of the boards - they should lie in the direction from one leg to the other. Using a circular saw, cut the part to the width. We mark the sides of the seat, located at an angle. Now you need to file the workpiece from the sides, following the outer marking line. We do not temporarily clean the untreated ends.
Select a groove at the rear end of the workpiece. The seat is at an angle relative to the back, so we tilt the bottom of the groove at an angle of 12.5° to the surface to make the joint tight. After this, we round the front end of the seat. Having screwed the seat to the legs, we grind its side edges, adjusting them flush with the surface of the rear legs.
Cut out the front legs. We bevel the top and bottom edges at an angle of 6°. We screw the front legs to the back legs with 32mm screws, strengthening the connection with glue.
A DIY garden chair should be reliable. A significant role in the stability of such furniture is played by the leg - a jumper between the legs that gives stability to the product. We cut the jumper to size. Applying it to the front legs, we mark the fixing grooves. The bottom of the groove should be at the same inclination of 12.5° to the face. The depth of the high side of the groove is selected up to 9 mm. We attach the jumper to the front ends of the legs using 32 mm screws and glue.
Front elements of a garden chair
We cut out the wedge-shaped supports of the armrests, beveling their upper edges at an angle of 6°. We screw the supports to the front legs with 32 mm screws, adding glue to the sockets.
We cut out the armrests and the rear support for them. We clean the ends of the parts with emery cloth. We cut the ends of the support at an angle of 30°, and the entire upper edge at an angle of 31.5°.
We press the rear support part to the back with clamps. We put the armrests in place and loosen the clamps. We set the position of the rear support element according to the level, achieving strict horizontality of the armrests. Tighten the clamps and screw the rear support to the backrest.
Screw the armrests to the rear support, wedge supports and front legs using 50mm screws and glue.
We close the recessed screw heads with wooden plugs. Sand them flush. Now you can soak the wood in hot drying oil, dry it and varnish it. The garden chair is ready.
The whole family will appreciate this classic design With beautiful texture and simple lines. The comfort of the chair has been beyond doubt among summer residents around the world for 100 years.
Wooden chairs are durable, environmentally friendly, do not harm our body and environment. According to ready-made drawings from simple tree and ordinary repair tools, you can build a garden chair with your own hands in just a few hours. Assembling the frame will seem like a game of the children's designer– just read the clear instructions.
When choosing wood for garden furniture, it is advisable to take into account the quality of the species. Obviously, after a certain period of time, the surface treatment is repeated, refreshing the coating. How often you will have to maintain and repair outdoor furniture depends on the intensity of its use, the conditions under which it is exposed open air. You can build a comfortable transformable garden chair with your own hands without special effort. It is not necessary to be an experienced carpenter - it is enough to have at least a basic understanding of the principles of construction.
Woodworking tools
There is nothing difficult to make a convenient transformer with your own hands for country holiday. For the set, you can also build a bench and a table of simple design. Depending on the interpretation of the design of a garden chair with your own hands according to the drawings, the list below necessary tools and materials can be supplemented a little. To build a garden chair according to the diagrams, you will need the following constant attributes of home renovation:
- roulette;
- corner with a protractor;
- hacksaw or saw (circular or end-face);
- electric plane (for working with unplaned boards);
- electric drill or screwdriver (with a set of drills and bits);
- wrench;
- simple pencil;
- paint brush with wide bristles.
For a product for the dacha you will also need edged boards 100x50 (with the expectation of getting 90x45 at 6.6 m and 90x20 at 6 m). When planning to use a chair made with your own hands from wood in an open garden space, follow three key rules to prolong the wear resistance of the product:
- Choose wood with small pores (oak, hornbeam or pine boards).
- The wood is coated with glaze for external and internal work.
- I treat the structure with a primer with an antiseptic effect.
To make a chair you also need: 10 pcs. furniture screws with special corrosion protection (M10 100-110 mm); 40 pcs. self-tapping screws for mounting the backrest, seat and armrests; abrasive grinding (grit P40-60) or grinding machine; stain with varnish. Drawings of parts are transferred to the boards for the accuracy of manufacturing prefabricated elements of the future structure. To make the second mirror part, you can use a template diagram. They also draw out the detail by applying the finished piece of furniture for the dacha with their own hands to the surface.
Designers advise not to focus your attention on the shape of the armrests of the garden chair - they can even be drawn by hand.
Assembly of the structure
DIY garden chair-2 Dimensions of chair parts Details of the main frame
Chair elements Rear frame Rear frame
Back details Armrests Front view
Side view
- All components of the country furniture element are sawed off and holes are drilled according to the size (drill d – 10 mm).
- The next stage is sanding the surface.
- Then both sidewalls are assembled, which have a mirror image of each other in shape.
- Fix the details wooden chair accessories. The legs are fixed. They can have different shapes (straight or crossed, fixed or folding) - it all depends on the chosen model and in the finished drawing. One part of the leg is screwed to the backrest support, and the second - under the front seat slats.
- Place the sides on a comfortable tabletop. The crossbars of the seat and backrest are fastened, the angles and dimensions are observed according to the drawing.
1. Cut the boards for the handles and crossbar 2. Next, attach the legs
3. Fasten another crossbar between the legs using self-tapping screws 4. Second pair support legs fasten at an angle
5. Again we connect the second pair of legs with a transverse crossbar 6. We connect the rear ends of the handles using another crossbar and bridge the part for sitting
7. Next we build a fairly high back 8. Add support under the arms and handles for carrying your throne
Garden chair
At the end of assembly, the finished structure is impregnated with stain and varnish or protective paint.
Covering the wood with stain
It is advisable to treat the surface in several layers with intermediate drying for better water resistance of the wooden chair. Folk craftsmen decorate the back with a figured hole, drawings or an additional figured strip, a footrest. You can put hand-sewn fabric pillows on the finished garden chair for a more comfortable enjoyment of nature. A camping chair with a lightweight design will become an indispensable attribute for fishing and relaxing in the forest with children. Shape and color scheme you can choose it yourself. The main thing is that the structure is resistant to moisture and temperature changes, can withstand the required weight and does not fade in the sun or dry out after rain.
Carpentry lovers are always wary of switching to upholstered furniture and prefer to buy ready-made kits sofas and armchairs, complementing them in style with tables and cabinets self-made. There is a reason for this: firstly, for this you need to master related disciplines, such as cutting and sewing or knitting, and secondly, you need to take care not only of the strength and appearance of the product, but also of the comfort of sitting or lying on it.
But, trying is not torture, you can make a modest piece of carpentry for testing, using a simple method of foam upholstery or ready-made furniture cushions. Making chairs can become a fun team hobby; friends or family members with different applied skills can combine their talents and get involved at different stages of creation. upholstered furniture. This will open up a lot of scope for design solutions and material selection.
Classic armchair
The production of this small-sized chair consists of two main stages.
Preparing parts and assembling the frame
You need to work especially carefully on the rear legs, to obtain a curved shape you need to use a ready-made pattern and a jigsaw. The vertical part of the backrest and the rear seat support are attached to the rear legs.
The front legs have a square cross-section and can be made from glued rectangular blocks. Their ends should also be narrowed using an electric jigsaw. Fastenings are made with self-tapping screws, for which it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a diameter less than one third.
Before installation, wood glue is applied to the surface of the joints. The seat bars are secured in the corners with additional parts, with edges cut at 45 degrees. For seating, you can use plywood or furniture fabric strips.
On last stage Assemblies are attached to the armrests and shaped backrest ears. The dimensions of the parts can be taken from ready-made drawings, or a pattern can be taken from old disassembled chairs.
Upholstery
Back and inner part armrests are covered with textile furniture tape. The seat is covered with layers of foam rubber, padding polyester and fabric, which should be 4-5 cm larger in size, due to which they will be folded in the front part and attached to the bottom of the seat.
Then the armrests and backrest are upholstered. To obtain a rounded shape, special recesses are made; after fastening, excess pieces of foam rubber and padding polyester are carefully trimmed. To master furniture upholstery skills, you will have to be patient and use video lessons.
Lattice chair with reclining seat
To make a lattice structure, you will need a beam with a cross-section of 2.8, which is cut into strips of the same length 50-60 cm, depending on the selected dimensions of the product.
The workpieces must have a perfectly flat surface, and you must also try to mark as accurately as possible the places for attaching them to the rack.
For the manufacture of load-bearing structure– sidewalls, 3 cm thick plywood is used, from which the sides of the chair are cut according to the pattern. These two sanded pieces are then connected to each other by bases called drawers: at the bottom, at the top and at the level of the seat support.
Then the prepared bars must be secured to this structure with self-tapping screws at intervals of 2.5 cm. The edges should be rounded. The photo shows several different models armchairs made from bars, made independently using this technology.
Country chairs
These wooden chairs are a more simplified version of the classic ones. Assembly diagram wooden frame basically the same, but wooden parts They are not rounded; the simplest armrests and even legs are made from the bars according to the principle of a children's construction set.
The processing of the end parts of furniture that will be located outdoors requires special attention. After thoroughly sanding the surface, it is treated with hot drying oil and coated with 3 layers of varnish. Removable cushions add softness to the country chairs.
Hanging chair hammock
To make this necessary attribute of relaxation on modern dacha You need to know how to knit using the macrame technique.
Basic materials:
- two hoops, a small one for the seat with a diameter of 70 cm, and a large one for the back - 110 cm, which can be made from water pipes metal-plastic pipes. To secure the connection, you can use plastic or wooden inserts that are placed inside the pipe and secured with screws;
- cord for weaving, can be made of polyamide with a polypropylene core, the knots of which are easily secured, do not stretch and do not slip.
- fasteners, wooden rods.
At the first stage, the entire circumference of the hoops is covered with uniform turns of cord, then the interior of the seat is knitted with a double cord mesh made using one of the macrame techniques.
The seat and backrest are secured with two wooden rods, which are fixed using cuts; in the front part, the seat and backrest frame are connected using a winding and two thick cords.
Another convenient option for a summer residence could be hanging chair, which you can make with your own hands from thick fabric. For the base you will need one hoop with a diameter of 90 cm.
For the cover, a 3-meter piece of fabric is taken, which is divided into two identical squares with a side of one and a half meters. Then the circles are cut out and a double cover is sewn with an allowance. The groove for the hoop is reinforced with padding polyester tape, then holes are cut to secure the scabs.
The following ideas are suitable for sewing and knitting enthusiasts who want to apply their skills to making furniture.
Chair cushion
It is better to sew the first such chair with your own hands, using ready-made patterns in the shape of a pear or a ball, strictly adhering to the given dimensions, and only then can you improvise with the silhouette and dimensions. You will need a bag of foam balls, fabric and zippers for the inner and outer covers, and a sewing machine.
The seams are made double for strength; when filling, a plastic or cardboard tube is used, which helps not to scatter the electrified foam chips.
You can improvise with the shapes and colors of such chairs. With this technology, if the work is completed, there can be no defects. Failed copies can become original pillows for children's games.
Bottle chair
This is the simplest know-how that does not require any special skills, just the desire to do something with your own hands.
It will take some time to collect the required amount of material. It will be necessary to collect identical two-liter plastic bottles, clean them and make blanks by cutting off the top part and inserting them into each other in pairs. Then the blocks are prepared different sizes for the seat, armrests and backrest, secured with tape.
The chair is assembled into classic style, rectangular blocks of various sizes for a seat, backrest and two armrests. After assembly, you need to wrap the entire product with polyethylene stretch film, and then decorate it with stylish pillows or sew a cover.
Frameless chair-bed made of foam rubber
In order to make such a chair with your own hands, you need to delve into the instructions, especially in the part that explains how to attach ready-made blocks.
Once you grasp the essence, and it consists in a special method of sewing covers along the edges to each other, you can easily assemble soft folding structures - corners, armchairs and sofas of any size. You will also need to learn the correct calculations when cutting foam rubber and patterning covers.
DIY chair photo
Garden furniture is one of the tools for creating additional comfort in the area near the house. Gone are the days when a hammock stretched between two trees that are already 20 years old and have grown so large that they can support a person was considered the height of luxury. Following him, street shops became a frequent occurrence, and then sofas, armchairs, even beds.
Peculiarities
The simplest garden furniture is outdoor benches used in parks and squares. However, summer residents and gardeners often make chairs, benches, and benches designed for use in the garden, and not just on the veranda or gazebo.
Do-it-yourself country furniture is much more durable than bought in furniture stores. To save money, furniture pieces are often made from chipboard, somehow protected from moisture using a film-adhesive layer. Sometimes wood dust with plastic is used - waste from other production as lumber. Both materials are separated epoxy resin or glue - this is how they cast, for example, interior doors. It is not a problem to organize the production of similar furniture for a summer cottage: the slats and boards cast in this way have longitudinal voids inside, and in section we see a box-shaped profile.
However natural wood, being well dried and impregnated with a bioprotective composition (against microbes, fungi, mold), coated with a waterproof varnish that can last for years even in heat, frost and dampness, will last at least several decades.
An example is the same Soviet benches installed in city parks back in the 70s of the last century, which in some places have survived to this day. There are no special secrets to their durability. These benches were painted with exterior paint every two years. It is resistant to fading under conditions of annual temperature changes, moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
Finally, making garden furniture - testing the skills of a real owner. If you are a jack of all trades, then you can make a chair using, for example, a dozen large scraps of wood after replacing the floors in the rooms.
Schemes and drawings
In the manufacture of garden furniture The following recommendations regarding its dimensions must be observed.
- The sizes of stainless steel screws are 51*8 (similar ones can be used).
- Nest type " dovetail", in which the armrests rest on the front and rear legs - 10*19*102 mm.
- A 3 mm chamfer is removed on the edges of all parts.
- The hole into the center of which the self-tapping screw is screwed widens to 19 mm at the surface of the part, turning into a narrow part and deepened to 5-10 mm. It will be easier to tighten the screws and cover these places with varnish (if plugs are not used).
- Rear legs: 2 pieces, 20*254*787 mm each. Front – 20*76*533 mm.
- Chair back: 20*279*914 mm.
- Armrest supports: 2 front 20*127*406 mm, rear 20*76*610 mm.
- Jumper: 20*51*589 mm.
- Insertion strips: 2 pieces, 12*20*254 mm each.
Different variants designs - folding or regular, differ in the size of the parts. The chair must be reliable, not break or squash under tens of kilograms of weight, which account for a significant part of the body weight of a large person.
Tools and materials
Having created the drawing, prepare the tools: circular saw, plane, milling machine, wood saw, screwdriver or universal screwdriver with bits, drill, grinder or grinder, clamps, measuring tape and pencil.
Self-tapping screws are used from stainless steel or brass.
Used as a basis the following types wood:
- acacia - stronger than oak, but difficult to process;
- teak is a tropical wood that is resistant to mold, microbes and fungus, but without varnish protection it turns black;
- beech and larch – resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations, ultraviolet radiation;
- oak is the most durable tree;
- cedar is easy to process and no less durable than acacia.
Epoxy is the best glue to use. A waterproof varnish is also required. The wood can be different - timber, regular or tongue and groove board.
How to do it yourself
The most popular model of garden chair is the Adirondack., named after the mountain range in North America. The master who lived there developed this design at the beginning of the 20th century.
To make it, sort the boards to be processed. Their thickness must be at least 2 cm. Before marking, they must be located side by side.
Preparation of parts begins with marking.
Using the drawing as a guide, make a cardboard stencil. Lay out the boards along it. Using a milling machine, cut out the parts for the rear legs, seat and back from the widest boards.
After finishing the sawing work, assemble the back and rear legs.
- Drill holes for screws in the parts. The drill should be 1-2 mm smaller in diameter than the screws. Screwing in self-tapping screws without drilling out the parts will lead to cracks - the tips of the screws push the wood fibers apart.
- Clean all mating surfaces using a grinder, file, sandpaper or metal brush. The fact is that rough surfaces stick together better; smooth ones can slip out, no matter what glue you use.
- Divorce required amount epoxy glue. It hardens within 1.5 hours. Prepare all parts and fasteners before assembly. If the master is a beginner, then there is no need for haste here: “get your hands on” with repetitive actions.
- Attach the back legs to the backrest. Their side ends should meet the back at an angle of 12.5 degrees.
- Close the gaps between the parts with special inserts made from the same wood. They are cut using a circular saw.
- Attach the inserts to the backrest.
- Mark side faces seats. They must be located at a certain angle to each other.
- Using the outer cutting line as a guide, saw through the corresponding part on the sides. Select a groove at the back end of the product and round off the front edge of the seat.
- Attach the seat to the legs, first smoothing their side ribs.
- Connect the front legs to the back ones.
- Mark and cut grooves at the junctions of the legs with the jumpers. The depth of the groove must be at least 9 cm.
- Insert jumpers between the legs - they will prevent the chair from swaying in different directions. Lock them down.
- Attach wedge-shaped supports, prepared in advance, to the front legs.
- Attach the armrests and the rear support for them to each other, clamp them with clamps.
- Insert the armrests into their seats. Screw them to the rear legs and remove the clamps.
Currently, the furniture industry has literally flooded the corresponding sector of the market with a variety of products from all kinds of materials and all existing styles, from retro to techno. Many people are attracted to wooden ones, but they are now too expensive for most who want to buy them.
But why not try to make it yourself, at least the simplest in design, not difficult to manufacture, and requiring ordinary tools? Undoubtedly, this type of furniture is a country or garden chair made of wooden beam cross section 8x8 cm or better 10x10 cm.
In order to make this type of furniture, it is enough to have minimal skills in working with carpentry tools and have general ideas about the properties of wood as a material for mechanical processing.
The most suitable materials for making a country chair are oak, beech, pine, walnut, birch, and ash. Their wood, which has undergone high-quality drying, is quite hard and therefore durable, is not afraid of moisture, is well processed and, importantly, has a beautiful texture. Linden and alder can be used to make light-duty parts.
Marking and preparing workpieces
Having decided on the dimensions of the chair, we measure the required length on the selected beam, taking into account the processing, and mark it using a construction tape, a metal triangle, a suitable pencil or marker.By using pendulum saw We cut the timber into blanks, simultaneously trimming their ends. For the design of the chair we have chosen, we will need 16 large-section blanks square shape and 2 bars with sides half the size of the main blanks.
To give a neat appearance and improve the quality of future assembly, we subject each workpiece to a milling process on all sides, including the end parts.
In the blanks that are intended to form the seat frame, in three we select grooves into the floor of the wood at the ends, using a circular saw or hand saw, and in two - a quarter of a tree, for which we need an electric scraper and a hand chisel to fine-tune the geometry of the grooves.
Assembling a country chair
We assemble the sides of the product with glue, lubricating it with a brush, the ends and mating parts of the mating parts, and tighten them using clamps adjustable in length, preferably on a flat horizontal surface.
To mechanically strengthen the connections in their centers, use an electric drill and a suitable drill to prepare blind holes for the heads of the coupling screws. Then, using a smaller drill, we set the direction of the coupling screws, which we screw in using a screwdriver.
Next, we rigidly glue the side panels using the upper back cross member at the level of the armrests in height and flush with the rear legs and the rear cross member of the seat frame at a certain height using pre-prepared templates from multi-layer plywood. To prevent them from moving, we secure them with clamps.
We set the crossbars according to the templates, having previously lubricated the ends and the corresponding places on the legs with glue. Using a metal triangle, we check that the right angle is maintained and, if necessary, adjust the crossbars.
We tighten the structure in the direction of the crossbars with length-adjustable clamps and strengthen the crosshairs with tension screws.
We close all the holes for the screw heads with wooden glue plugs, sawing off the excess flush with the side surfaces.
Now we install the longitudinal side elements of the seat frame with grooves in a quarter of the wood at the level of its transverse elements.
We fix a beam of smaller cross-section into the grooves with glue, fix it with a clamp and screw them with two or three screws each to the transverse elements of the seat frame.
On them we lay three longitudinal beams with glue on them with grooves in half the wood, using templates that set the same distance between them, and temporarily secured with clamps.
Each of the three middle bars of the seat frame is fastened on both sides from below to the small bars with two screws screwed in flush (to do this, we pre-drill sockets for the screw heads using a drill).
Since the outer bars of this element of the garden chair were not completely secured, we remove them, coat the grooves with glue and put them in place, securing them with clamps until the glue dries completely. The frame of our product is fully assembled, and all its elements are securely fastened with glue and screws, forming a strong and rigid power structure.
We finally process all the edges of the frame grinder to obtain even and smooth surfaces.
We carefully wipe them with a slightly damp cloth to remove small particles and wood dust and let the wood dry completely.
The last operation is coating with varnish, which will protect the surface of the wood from moisture, make it easier to care for the furniture and emphasize the natural texture of the wood.
All that remains is to install the cushions for the back and seat after the varnish has dried.
The chair is designed for both a child and an adult, and even for a father or mother with a daughter or son on their lap.
Concluding remarks
Working on country chair, we must not forget about the presence and serviceability of shields and protective elements above cutting tools. You should also wear long sleeves with tight closures at the wrists. You should wear gloves on your hands and safety glasses on your eyes. A respirator will also help to protect yourself from fine wood dust and varnish fumes, which are not harmless to the human body.For safety and greater aesthetics, it would not hurt to smooth out sharp corners, especially if there are small children in the family, and clothing will also serve a purpose. And under the legs it is worth stuffing rubber or plastic material so that moisture does not penetrate the wood and cause it to rot.
In order for the chair to last as long as possible and not lose its operational and aesthetic qualities, during precipitation and in the winter it is advisable to put it under a roof and cover it with at least plastic film so that dust and other pollutants floating in the atmosphere do not settle.
