Siding is one of the varieties building materials for wall cladding. With its help, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at low cost, if the house is still good, but already quite old. In addition, finishing and siding are used for the outside.
Layed on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. And it will help you do all the work correctly step by step instructions for self-cladding a house with siding.
A little history
This type of cladding was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, durable, light vessels were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the word siding itself is translated as plank. Northern peoples adopted this technology to insulate their homes, lining their houses with planks. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular among Russian pioneers.
Nowadays, siding is made from modern building materials:
- Vinyl;
- Metal;
- Cement (fiber cement siding);
- Tree.
Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private home without significant financial costs.
Preparation for sheathing
Preparatory work for covering a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If sagging of masonry mortar is visible, you just need to knock them down. Either drive the protruding nails back or remove them altogether. If possible, small protrusions more than 6 mm in height should also be eliminated.
Inspection
When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify unevenness of the walls, base, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever siding work is planned. It is better to carry out such measurements using a long standard metal rod, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places – no more than 6 mm.
Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular shape, and diamond-shaped - then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door – 6 mm.
The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
Over time, the building may sag on one side and tilt. The inclination of a wall or the entire building is checked using a plumb line. Deviation from the vertical is allowed no more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is greater than permissible, then it is already in a pre-emergency condition. If it is not eliminated, then further work for covering with siding are simply pointless.
Preparatory work
After checking the geometry of the building, it is necessary to carry out a complex preparatory work. Trims, drains, grates, etc. are removed. If there are cracks in the walls, near windows and doorways- seal or with polyurethane foam, or just cement mortar. If you find: broken plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Wooden walls treat with any antiseptic.
Tools and materials
Before starting work on siding your house, make sure you have a full set of available tools:
- Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
- Hammer;
- Roulettes (laser tapes are easier and more convenient to work with);
- Construction level;
- Stairs.
How to cut boards
When cladding a building, part finishing panels used in its entirety. But in some places you will have to make extensions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding and siding, the tool for cutting the panels is also selected.
For vinyl
- Electric jigsaw with fine-toothed blade;
- Bulgarian;
- Sharp Cutter;
- Universal;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- Shoe knife.
Metal siding
- hacksaw for metal;
- metal scissors;
- electric circular saw with pobedit teeth.
Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the cut site, damaging the protective top layer.
Material
If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all required material You can simply contact a large hardware store. The seller simply needs to describe in detail the area of the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of materials for the job.
And in order to control the quality of the product, you need to know what characteristics the material for covering a house with siding must meet:
- Same thickness throughout the entire panel.
- The presence of special markings on the inside of the panel is mandatory. This marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, production date. If there was not enough material for covering during the work process, you can always purchase more, focusing on this marking.
- On quality panels There is a hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
- A sure sign that a company cares about its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories included with the materials.
- All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage must be 50 years.
- Responsible sellers will definitely include instructions for installing siding with the purchased product.
Installation of sheathing
First, markings are made. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house so as to create a closed contour. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to take measurements with a tape measure to identify minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.
The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the installation horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.
This is necessary to ensure that air constantly circulates under the siding, preventing the formation of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made from a special profile. For log walls, slats with a cross section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.
Waterproofing and insulation
If the sheathing is installed on wooden and aerated concrete walls, waterproofing must be installed.
Insulation of walls with mini-slabs is carried out at the request of the house owner, but a moisture-and-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a layer of waterproofing is attached on top of it. Since a gap for ventilation between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a sheathing is built on top of the insulation layer.
Guides
Now that there is insulation and the sheathing is ready, it’s time to install siding accessories, such as:
- external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
- strips for window and door openings;
- ebbs on the base of the building and windows.
The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding strip so that the upper edge runs along the line. The corner elements are attached rigidly to self-tapping screws at the very top of the outer hole. The subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the slot in increments of 50 cm.
Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be built up with another one, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.
Window framing begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. The side window strips are installed on this protrusion. From below, the ebb is held in place by a j-profile. After installing the siding, the window design is completed by installing the trim.
The process of edging a doorway is almost identical to that of a window.
Installation of panels
The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to a LEGO set. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from below. At the top, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.
All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing strip.
Basic installation rules
- Be sure to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
- Maintain a 10 mm gap between the slats and the guides. This will prevent the siding from being damaged when it expands in hot weather.
- Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.
Watch the video:
I have the following problem. The house is old and just needs to be insulated corner room, in winter it’s cold, damp and mold grows on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the entire house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not made very well. Deviation from the plane is about 20 mm. So far we have decided that horizontal cladding will show all the shortcomings, and vertical cladding will hide it, but we doubt whether this is so.
The question arose before winter of covering the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I re-read a bunch different advice, sites that tell you what and how to do. But I haven’t been able to find anyone who can put it all in concrete terms. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do and what will be needed. In the end I bought metal siding beige color and got to work. Since I was on vacation, my friend and I did everything quickly. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The result is a satisfied wife and beautiful house. Thanks for the article, it turned out to be very useful.
Technology such as siding finishing wooden house, dates back several centuries. The first settlers are considered the ancestors North America, who essentially came up with a curtain façade that protected the main walls from the effects of precipitation and sun. In addition to its protective properties, such cladding has another attractive property - it is easy to repair. And if necessary or at the request of the owner, it will not be difficult to replace it with a new one. Now other materials have appeared that have further expanded the possibilities of siding for decorating and protecting the walls of a house.
In addition to decorating the facade, sading is used to insulate the walls of the house
Siding as a facade panel: materials and types
Initially, the siding looked like ordinary boards, overlapped over the sheathing so that the edge of the top one hung over the bottom. Nowadays this type of finishing is used as a tribute to tradition or to achieve a facade in a “retro” style. In modern versions, most types of siding use locking system the panels are connected according to the “groove-tenon” principle, but the functions of the cladding have not changed - precipitation flowing down it should not penetrate inside, so the groove is on top and the tenon is on the bottom.
There are no restrictions on siding materials for cladding a wooden house. And although “breathing” properties are considered one of the main advantages of wood, the curtain wall system with a ventilated gap does not interfere with the natural gas exchange through the walls between the room and the street.
Types of siding for cladding a house are distinguished by the material used for the panels: wood, wood-based composite, fiber cement, metal and vinyl.
Wood siding
The principle of “like with like” also applies to houses. Therefore, many owners of wooden houses use panels made of the same material.
Scheme for finishing a house made of timber with clapboard siding
Modern wood siding for exterior finishing home has the following classification:
Facade board with a regular end or “and a quarter”. The board is mounted with a regular end traditional way– overlap with overhang. There are two ways to install a board with a quarter - “herringbone” and at one level (“shipboard”), but so that a quarter of the top panel lies on the bottom.
American lining. It has a complex profile that borrows the herringbone-style exterior surface from siding. Two types of connecting panels to each other: with a “quarter”, “tenon and groove”.
Imitation timber and block house. Special types of facade lining with increased thickness (although there are interior, thinner modifications). In terms of the appearance of the sheathing, these materials do not belong to siding, but in terms of the location of the groove and tenon on the facade, in terms of functions and fastening to the sheathing, there are no fundamental differences.
Note! Many types of modern siding (not made of wood) have similar options for the front surface of the panel. And in addition to the “herringbone” characteristic of traditional siding, there is “ship plank” and “block house”.
Siding panels can imitate any material
Coniferous species are usually used to make façade wooden siding: pine and larch. You can also find offers for the sale of cedar façade boards. The cost is greatly influenced by the type of wood, grade, manufacturer (including country of origin), panel thickness and availability protective treatment at the production stage.
The most inexpensive option is domestic planed board made of AB or A grade pine, 20 mm thick, square meter which costs 300-350 rubles. The cost of a board with a quarter is not fundamentally different.
Imitation timber from grade A pine with a thickness of 20 mm costs approximately 20% more than a board, and for larch with the same parameters you have to pay three times more - 1100-1200 rubles/m2. You can reduce costs and choose imitation timber of grade B, which will cost 800-850 rubles/m2. There is also grade C, but it is not for finishing a house - it is used for outbuildings or an inexpensive house in the village.
Grade “C” board is clearly not suitable for finishing works
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer finishing and insulation services for houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
The most expensive types wood finishing– façade board with heat treatment and oil or varnish coating. For comparison, a pine plank made in Europe (from Russian raw materials) will cost from 1200 rubles/m2, and from larch - from 1400 rubles/m2.
There is also a more expensive segment of facade boards. It is made from hardwood or exotic wood with heat treatment and a protective coating. Prices in this product category start from 4,000 rubles/m2.
The second floor of chalet houses is often made of heat-treated boards
The advantages and disadvantages of wood siding are controversial.
If facade materials were used for the exterior decoration of the house, which underwent careful selection at the raw material level, drying and deep protective treatment (antiseptics, varnish, oil), then the resistance to moisture and rotting of wooden siding is high. And siding made of heat-treated wood with a protective coating is practically invulnerable to these influences.
Strength to mechanical stress depends on the thickness of the panel, and it is never small for a façade board (from 18 mm and above). Heat treatment of wood somewhat reduces its hardness, but wall paneling is not flooring.
The only drawback is flammability. Even treatment with fire retardants does not transfer the tree to the “non-flammable” category, but reduces the likelihood of ignition upon local contact with an open fire.
Video description
The fact that even boards impregnated with fire retardants burn can be clearly seen in the following video:
Video description
Plus, a comparison of several fire retardants:
Siding WPC
Siding for finishing a house made from a wood-polymer composition is not the only area of application for this material. It is made from decking board, which competes with coatings made from exotic woods that are highly durable, resistant to moisture and rot.
Sheathing a house made of WPC does not require protective treatment, does not burn, practically does not fade in the sun, does not swell or warp - that is, it has no disadvantages natural wood. And the service life, according to manufacturers, will be at least 25 years.
Despite the use of inexpensive materials as raw materials (woodworking waste and plastic), in terms of cost, WPC siding does not belong to the “low-budget” cladding. If we compare it with wood, the price from a domestic manufacturer is approximately the same as that of imitation larch timber of grade A, “Prima” or “Extra” - from 1200 rubles/m2. Siding from a European manufacturer (more precisely, a European trademark with production in China) costs almost twice as much.
Raw materials for creating WPC siding of various colors
Fiber cement siding
This is another type of artificial facade board in the literal sense of the word.
In composition it is lightweight concrete from a mixture of cement, cellulose fibers, dyes and additives. In most cases, the shape is a board with the texture of natural wood, but there are other solutions. Including at the coverage level. Therefore, the properties and cost of this siding depend on the manufacturer.
Fiber cement siding without coating
This type was created as a replacement for traditional siding, so its installation method is classic - from bottom to top, in a herringbone pattern with the top board overhanging the bottom board.
Fiber cement board is easy to cut and drill. Thanks to micro-reinforcement at the composition level, the strength of the skin is quite high. And coloring with pigments in volume (throughout the entire depth of the board) gives high resistance to solar ultraviolet radiation.
Video description
In our video we will talk about Japanese facades. Let's take a closer look at what errors happen during the installation process:
As in the case of WPC, fiber cement siding is completely devoid of the disadvantages of natural wood, does not require protective painting and is easy to maintain. But it is not cheap either - the price depends on the manufacturer and series. Eternit has the largest presence on the market, the cost of its products starts at 1,400 rubles/m2.
Fiber cement panels with herringbone fastening
Coated fiber cement siding
Recently, new types of siding for finishing the outside of a house have appeared on the market of finishing materials - fiber cement panels with a protective coating and a multilayer structure. The authors of this new product are Japanese manufacturers of facade systems. Each company has its own recipe, but the properties and cost are equivalent. And all modifications have a layer with a solar ultraviolet absorber, which increases resistance to fading.
The simplest option as a protective layer has acrylic paint with the addition of silicone copolymers. Estimated cost is about 1500 rubles/m2.
A little more expensive is painted fiber cement siding with the addition of a hydrophilic layer. This is a kind of sorbent that absorbs moisture from the air, which creates a microscopic film of water with self-cleaning properties - dirt is easily washed off by rain. Price – around 2000 rubles/m2.
Another step higher is ceramic siding with a hydrophilic layer. The base of these panels is still fiber cement, but with ceramic coating and a high degree of protection of pigments from destruction when exposed to UV. Price – from 2500 rub/m2.
House finished with fiber cement ceramic siding
And at the very top of the fiber cement siding hierarchy are panels with a protective layer of photoceramics. In addition to blocking ultraviolet radiation and the ability to self-clean, there is a disinfection and air purification function. Photocatalysts, when exposed to light, kill some of the bacteria that are on the surface. Price – from 4000 rub./m2.
Note! Quite often, all four types in IM catalogs are presented as “ceramic” siding.
A special feature of ceramic siding is a wide variety of colors and textures. In addition to imitation wooden boards, there are panels “like stone”, “like brick”, “like decorative plaster”.
Both parts of the house are finished with fiber cement siding
Vinyl and metal siding
Metal and vinyl siding for exterior decoration are different types of siding in materials, but similar in profile and decorative capabilities. The proximity is so close that the installation technologies are largely similar - it is also necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the panels when attaching them to the sheathing and joining with additional profiles. They also have almost the same range of colors and textures.
Based on the type of profile, single- and double-fracture panels are distinguished. By type of front surface - shiplap, herringbone and block house.
The cost of standard “wall” panels varies slightly. But in both cases you can find panels domestic production within 300 rub./m 2. And imported siding from Europe will cost from 800 rubles/m2.
In addition, vinyl panels have a denser design:
basement siding, which is often used for cladding the entire facade (costs from 500 rubles/m2 to 1500 rubles/m2);
siding made of foamed PVC with good sound and thermal insulation properties(price about 1000 rubles/m2).
Video description
For a clear overview of siding, watch the following video:
Conclusion
Siding as panels for exterior decoration of a house is chosen as part of the system curtain façade, which allows you to comprehensively solve the problem of protecting walls, insulating the house and decorative finishing. But most of all it is attractive because of the widest range of materials, texture and cost.
Today, more and more people are finishing the facades of private houses with siding. This material appeared with us quite recently, but has already managed to displace many types of cladding used before it. This happened because siding is not expensive at all, but it has a very aesthetic appearance and is easy to install.
If you decide to decorate the facade of your house with siding yourself, then first you need to find out what types of this material are on the market. Among them, the most commonly used are:
- vinyl siding;
- metal siding;
- fiber cement siding.
In addition to the three listed types, there is also basement siding. It imitates stone or wood, and it is almost impossible to understand from a distance that it is neither one nor the other. Recently, they began to decorate not only the bases of houses, but also entire facades. This material looks very impressive. Among the options for decorating the facade of a house with siding, you can choose not only different textures, but also combinations of colors and shades.
Vinyl siding is most often used for finishing houses in country houses and gardens. Its advantages include:
- long service life - from half a century;
- resistance to corrosion;
- inertness of the material - it does not react with chemicals;
- relatively low cost;
- has a rich palette of colors and textures;
- does not melt or burn;
- prevents condensation;
- it is easy to care for;
- there is no need for periodic treatment with antiseptic substances and painting.
Metal siding has special edges with holes for fasteners. It is durable, light-resistant, and can last 30-35 years. The material is not exposed to high and low temperatures, as well as harsh climate. Its advantages are:
- Metal siding can be installed both horizontally and vertically;
- variety of components;
- has increased reliability. This applies to both the material itself and the locks;
- installation is carried out on any type of surface;
- work can be carried out in any season;
- a wide range of different colors.
Fiber cement siding is produced by mixing cement, wood fibers, various additives and water. The mixture then hardens and becomes very durable, waterproof, fire-resistant and insect-resistant.
A house decorated with this material looks very aesthetically pleasing. If over time you get tired of its color, fiber cement siding can be painted. In addition, it does not require complex care - it is enough to wash it with plain water.
If you have set yourself the task of self-finishing the facade of the house with siding, the photos presented in this article will help you decide on the type of material.
Installation of sheathing under siding
The cladding can be attached to any surface. Finishing the facade of a wooden house with siding is carried out according to the same principle as finishing brick house. Doing this yourself is quite simple, the main thing is that the base is level.
To secure the material to the wall, it is necessary to mount the lathing. It can be metal or wood. The first will require U-shaped profiles with a cross-section of 27x60 mm, and the second will require bars measuring 40 and 70 mm. The walls of the house need to be prepared in a certain way, namely:
- remove window and door frames, as well as all other convex elements;
- remove dirt and old peeling paint or other finishes;
- if there is clapboard paneling on the walls, then you should check the reliability of its fastening, and secure loose elements with self-tapping screws;
- after this, the surface of the walls must be treated with an antiseptic. This is done to prevent the development of mold and mildew due to moisture accidentally getting under the casing.
Next, markings are applied to the surface of the prepared walls. The distance between the beams or profiles will depend on how dense and heavy material you have chosen. The lighter it is, the larger the sheathing pitch can be and vice versa.
In addition to the weight of the selected type of siding, it is also necessary to take into account the availability strong winds in your region. If they are constantly present, then it is better to reduce the step.
The direction of the sheathing depends on the direction you choose to install the cladding. If it is installed vertically, the sheathing should be mounted horizontally and vice versa.
If we are talking about finishing the facade of the house basement siding, there are exceptions here - “Dolomite” can only be attached to a vertical sheathing.
To install metal sheathing, steel plates with perforations are used - hangers or special brackets. The work sequence looks like this:
- We install profiles on both edges of the wall. We will focus on them when leveling the plane;
- Using a hammer drill, we make holes in the wall according to the markings. We insert plastic dowels into the holes and secure hangers or brackets;
- If you want to insulate the facade, then before installing the main profiles you need to fix the thermal insulation to the wall. For this purpose, a slot is made in the material plate opposite the suspension, after which the thermal insulation is put on it. In the same way, a film protecting from the wind is mounted under the sheathing;
- We attach to the brackets located at the edges metal profiles. We stretch a cord or rope between them, along which the remaining profiles will be aligned;
- to give the structure additional rigidity, we make lintels from profile scraps and connect them perpendicularly to the main profiles;
- Upon completion of work, it is necessary to check the resulting plane using a level.
Wooden sheathing is cheaper than metal sheathing and is much easier to install. Before starting work, the beams must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent the process of rotting, as well as the formation of mold and mildew. Sequence of installation of wooden sheathing:
- We cut the beams to a length equal to the height of the wall. If the beam is shorter than the wall, you will need to join it with another piece, but this is best avoided;
- just as in the previous case, we first attach the brackets, and then press the bars against them, align them and fix them with self-tapping screws;
- If you do not put insulation between the wall and the siding, then the sheathing can be attached directly to the wall. In this case, they drill into the bars through holes, through which they are fixed on its surface. To level the sheathing, mounting wedges made of plastic or wood are used.
Facade cladding with fiber cement siding
Fiber cement siding, like any other, is produced either in the form of slabs or in the form of narrow slats of great length. The surface of the material can be smooth or textured. Sequence of work:
- the material is attached to the sheathing using steel nails with a small head;
- nail each fragment, retreating from the edge by 2.5 cm. Next, the nail will be covered with the top plate and will become invisible;
- panels with a thickness of 12-15 mm can be fixed not only with self-tapping screws, but also with clamps - special brackets that create an invisible fastening;
- screws are screwed in in thick places, retreating from the edges by 2-3 cm, otherwise chips may appear;
- steel clamps are attached to vertical profiles with self-tapping screws from 0.5 to 2 cm. Such fasteners have the following advantages:
- convenience and ease of installation;
- the cladding remains intact in case of deformation from high temperatures;
- uniform load distribution;
- aesthetic appearance;
- saving time and effort.
- After the frame is assembled, installation begins, moving in the direction from bottom to top. Lay out the elements of the material, starting from architectural features Houses;
- you need to cut the slabs as little as possible and strive for continuity of step in height;
- First, the basement ebb is installed. The distance from its edge to the ground should be 5-10 cm. It is fixed with self-tapping screws on vertical profiles;
- after this, install the bottom row of clamps and attach the vertical strip to the main vertical profile at the joint between the plates;
- the first plate is supported by clamps. In this case, its end parts rest against the vertical seam bar. The cladding in the upper part is secured with clamps. The next slab will rest on them;
- thus, the first row, the second and all subsequent ones are mounted. The horizontal edges of the slabs are joined “lockwise”, and the vertical edges are filled with sealant. Before doing this, it is better to protect the edges of the siding with masking tape so as not to stain or spoil the appearance;
- finishing internal corners, join the slabs at right angles, finishing the outer ones at an angle of 45 degrees. For subsequent application of sealant, it is necessary to provide edges of 0.3-0.5 cm;
- window and door openings are framed either with galvanized steel coated with a polymer or with fiber cement boards.
Finishing the facade of the house with metal siding
By the time wall cladding begins, roofing work must be completely completed. You also need to install the drainage system and complete all manipulations with heavy equipment, such as a hammer drill. Otherwise facing material may be damaged.
Now you can begin installing the siding:
- We attach the starting bar to the wall;
- we trim internal and external corners;
- we frame the openings of windows and doors;
- we install a connecting strip, which is an N-shaped profile;
- we cover the facades of the house with siding;
- fix the finishing strip.
To properly install the trim panel, you need to lift it up until it is aligned with the starter strip. After the lock clicks into place, the material will fall into place. Vinyl cladding is installed in exactly the same way.
To ensure that you do not have any difficulties when decorating the facade of a house with siding, the video below clearly illustrates this process.
External cladding at home solves several problems - improving the design of the facade, protecting walls from weather conditions and insulation. The value of any finishing material lies in the combination of several factors - durability, availability, decorative properties, ease of installation and maintenance. Finishing the house with siding meets these conditions. Therefore, this is one of the most popular technologies, especially considering that there are several types of facade panels, united by a common name.
Finishing a house with siding - good combination traditions and modernity Source holds.ru
Types of siding and their features
Siding was invented by American settlers. It was made exclusively of wood and consisted of ordinary boards, which were mounted horizontally overlapping in such a way that the upper ones hung over the lower ones. Nowadays there are only several types of materials, and even more decorative forms.
Wood siding
In the classical interpretation, this is edged board, which is attached to the crate. Nowadays, facing the facade of a house with wooden siding is often called “American” in honor of the birthplace of the technology. And in its usual form, a house sheathed in this way looks good, albeit somewhat rustic.
This is what the classic “American” cladding looks like Source hi.aviarydecor.com
Fans of rustic style will certainly like the slightly rough appearance of the façade, made of unedged boards– it gives the house a unique flavor, despite the modern “filling” of the wall pie made of insulation and a protective membrane.
Brutal style for a wooden house Source pinterest.cl
This fastening method, which ensures that the cladding is impenetrable to wind and precipitation, gave impetus to the appearance of profiled facade boards. It greatly simplifies the installation process, since the geometry itself sets the exact step, and inner side mounted to the sheathing with continuous flooring.
The beveled profile of the board with a tenon will make installation easier and faster Source notperfect.ru
Even better in this regard for finishing the facade of a wooden house with siding is “American” lining. To the beveled profile and the protruding edge of the front part, a tenon was added at the upper end and a groove at the lower end, which ensure complete tightness of the skin and protection of the facade from direct penetration of cold air in winter and hot air in summer.
Heat treatment of the “American” façade board significantly increases its service life Source parki48.ru
Fiber cement siding
The composition of this type of siding for finishing a house is artificial stone. But unlike its closest “relatives” among facade panels (the surface of which is made to look like slate, limestone or brick), it imitates cladding wooden board. And in terms of decorative abilities it is in no way inferior to the best examples of natural analogues.
Fiber cement panel is not inferior in “beauty” to wooden siding, but significantly exceeds it in service life Source 2gis.ru
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer finishing and insulation services for houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Installation takes place according to traditional scheme– with self-tapping screws in the upper part so that the protruding edge of the overhanging panel covers the attachment points. And the inner side, unlike classic siding, is located on the sheathing as a continuous flooring, like a profiled facade board. Although on the front side the cladding resembles a traditional herringbone installation.
Although this is a relative of concrete, the fastening is no more difficult than wood Source fibro-siding.ru
In terms of durability and performance properties, fiber cement siding is one of the best in its class - it belongs to non-flammable materials, painted in mass, practically does not fade in the sun, is absolutely resistant to high humidity and fluctuations in its level, does not change its geometry when the temperature decreases or increases.
Wood polymer siding
This material is made from recycled wood and polymer and is commonly referred to by the acronym WPC, where the “k” stands for composite. Initially, the technology itself was planned as a way to recycle wood waste and produce boards (panels) for use outdoors - terraces, facades, small architectural forms V landscape design
WPC has the same “specialization” as wood, but is much more durable Source notperfect.ru
It turned out that the cost of production turned out to be higher than that of similar products made from natural raw materials of coniferous species (including larch). But given the long guaranteed service life (from 25 years) without fading, cracking and warping, such siding will pay for itself in the long run. Moreover, it does not require treatment with antiseptics, fire retardants or paint coating.
There are different types structures of WPC profiles for cladding a house with siding. They differ in the thickness of the front part, the shape of the “lock”, the number and location of stiffeners. But they have one thing in common - an imitation of a high-quality wooden board.
Ideal surface quality is achieved already at the manufacturing stage Source woodexotic.ru
And although the type of front surface of the sheathing and the method of joining the panels are more similar to lining or imitation timber, they are still called “siding”.
Metal siding
There are two types of metal from which façade panels “for siding” are produced: aluminum and steel. It is quite clear that the second option is popular for private housing construction due to its higher strength.
The simplest profile is a ship's plank Source zaborprofil.ru
The production technology of steel siding for the facade of a house is the same as that of corrugated sheets or metal tiles - it is a cold-rolled galvanized thin sheet with a protective and decorative coating. And the profile, which has several stiffening ribs that imitate some kind of wooden cladding panel, is responsible for its resistance to mechanical stress. Therefore, those statements that indicate that metal siding is more in demand for cladding commercial or civil buildings than for residential buildings are incorrect.
There are three profile options:
- Herringbone is a classic siding.
- Shipboard - lining or timber.
- Block house is a rounded log.
A photo of finishing the facade of a private house with metal siding (block house) is popular for rustic style Source 2gis.ru
Vinyl siding
This is one of the popular types facade finishing. The main reason is affordable price. In addition, polymer panels have sufficient strength (provided that the sheathing is done correctly), simple installation and equally simple maintenance, high resistance to any weather conditions, a large palette of colors and textures, and a very attractive appearance. And in terms of durability it surpasses any facade board made of natural wood(even taking into account its heat treatment).
Vinyl siding, although it is an “economy option,” can look very attractive Source liversal.com
Of course, the decorative properties of vinyl siding for the facade of a house are lower than those of natural, composite or fiber cement. But this is if we talk about imitation wood paneling– like metal panels, its artificial origin is obvious. And it copies stone or brick cladding quite convincingly.
One of the options for finishing house siding is vinyl panels to look like stone. Source pinterest.co.uk
New vinyl siding products include: famous company Vinylit Fassaden GmbH. She has a series special type facade panels, which differs from standard ones not only in the profile type, but also decorative design– imitation of decorative pebble plaster.
New on our market - siding with effect decorative plaster Source okostroy.ru
The cost, as well as the appearance, of such cladding no longer belongs to the economy class - on average, a “board” with an area of 1 m² costs almost 2,000 rubles. And the explanation is simple - to some extent, this siding can be called a composite material made of polymer and chips natural stone, which is literally “recessed” into the front part of the panel.
When is the best time to install siding?
Facade cladding is classified as “dry” construction technologies. The only stage when they can be used mortars– This is the preparation of the surface for installation.
If brick wall does not have cracks or crumbling areas, then before covering it can simply be treated with a primer with antiseptic properties. And this is only necessary if the climate is humid, the house is surrounded by trees (or is located on the leeward side of a hill) and there is a high risk of mineral-based fungus or mold in conditions of poor ventilation of the facade.
If it is necessary to sheathe wooden house, then treatment with an antiseptic is mandatory.
Therefore, when they say that siding installation can be carried out at any time of the year, they are lying a little - for preparatory stage often required positive temperature air (average daily should not be lower than +5°C).
Video description
About possible errors When installing siding, watch the video:
Siding installation
Each type of facade panel and each profile has its own installation technology.
There are several general mandatory conditions:
- the cladding uses the technology of a suspended ventilated facade with simultaneous insulation of the walls;
Insulation for siding is a mandatory layer of the façade “pie” for our climate Source dekoriko.ru
- it is necessary to calculate the materials as accurately as possible so that there are no large residues left when there is “overkill” and there is no need to buy more if there is a shortage (painted panels from different batches may not have the same shades);
- must be precisely calibrated zero level at the starting strip or the first panel from the bottom - it is this that is responsible for the “simplicity” and correctness of the cladding of the entire wall;
- if the panels have a connecting groove, it should be at the bottom so that moisture does not collect in it;
- all openings and corner connections must be issued with appropriate profiles.
Video description
You can clearly see how siding work is done in the video:
Conclusion
Siding is a universal façade panel. They are able to reproduce the texture of all building materials and are suitable for any home, and decorative possibilities are limited only by the construction budget. Therefore, if you have settled on the option of finishing the facade of your house with siding, then it is better to choose the appropriate color with a designer who will help you choose the best option for your home.
December 26th, 2012
We can safely say that one of the most popular materials is siding. His popularity is not only due to his attractive appearance and wonderful performance characteristics, but also with ease of installation. The last factor is decisive in choosing the type of finishing for a private house, since installing siding is so simple that you can do it yourself. Next, we will look at the sequence of work on self-cladding with siding.
To work, you will need the following tools and materials: a hammer drill, special metal scissors, a tape measure, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a carpenter's square, a 2-meter long level, a pencil, and construction rope.
Preparatory work
Before carrying out any finishing work, such as facade panels, as well as others finishing materials The base surface needs preparation, and the walls of the house for siding are no exception. Surface house facades must be prepared in the most careful way:
- the walls of the building must be cleared of branches, climbing plants, various designs drainage systems, fastening elements for hinged parts;
- if the surface of the old house is already covered with clapboard, then you should make sure that all elements are securely fastened; damaged or loose parts need to be replaced or firmly fixed;
- any decorative elements, platbands, wind boards, window sills, shutters and other protruding parts must be removed from the surface of the walls;
- It’s worth checking the evenness of the walls using a rod, plumb line or level;
- errors should be eliminated window openings, adjusting frames and window blocks.
The process of finishing the facade of a private house with siding consists of the following technological stages:
The question often arises: is it necessary to install a frame for siding? In case of installation of siding panels on uneven walls, they will repeat all their irregularities and crack over time. Even if the walls are perfectly smooth, it is worth installing sheathing. Thanks to it, a small ventilation gap between the cladding and the wall, and this helps to increase the sound and heat insulation of the house. The sheathing can be made of metal or wood. To install siding horizontally, the sheathing must be placed strictly vertically, and for vertical siding- vice versa. The sheathing is attached to the walls using nails every 30-40 cm. Be sure to install the sheathing in the corners of the house, around all openings, along the boundaries of the siding fasteners. To insulate a building, any type of insulation is placed between the sheathing posts, for example expanded polystyrene insulation or mineral wool insulation .
2. Installation of starting and auxiliary siding elements. First, you need to install a starting strip along the contour of the building. The upper edge of the starting line should be strictly along the bottom line of the old cladding of the house. Vinyl corners are installed in the corners of the house to create a beautiful junction of mutually perpendicular elements. The corner must be mounted so that at the top it does not reach the overhang of the cornice or profile by 6 mm, and at the bottom it is 8 mm longer than the starting profile. The corner is fastened with nails every 20-40 cm, so as to ensure the possibility of temperature deformations of the material.
3. Attaching the siding to the sheathing. There are two types of installation of siding on the wall. In the first case, N-rails are used, in the second, they do without it. In the first installation method, the edges of the panels are joined by inserting them into the grooves of the H-rail on both sides. Such vertical slats will be part of your facade. But when they are matched to the color of the panels, they are not very noticeable. In the second case, the siding is installed with an overlap; for this, the panel joints need to be placed “spaced apart” (the panel joints should not fall on the same vertical line) so that the seams are less noticeable. Both fastening methods are needed for very big houses, where the length of one element is not enough to cover the entire area of the facade. We begin the installation of panels from the lower starting profile. We provide a gap between the panel and the wall of 2-3 mm for deformation due to temperature changes. The gap between the panels should be 6-9 mm. When fastening panels at sub-zero temperatures, we increase the gap to 12 mm. You can cut siding outdoors at a maximum of -10 degrees.
There is no need to rush and cut all the siding panels at once; it is better to shorten the elements as needed. This way you will avoid unnecessary expenses.
If you need to install panels in openings (between windows), then it is very convenient not to fix the J-profile in its upper part. When winding the panel, it can be easily bent. After panel installation profile bar can be fixed.
The joining of two panels occurs according to the tongue-and-groove principle. After snapping the locking part between them, the last panel is secured to the sheathing with nails (screws) through the mounting holes in it.
The ideal option for fastening, for example, are short self-tapping screws with a small rounded head. In addition to them, you can use tar paper nails.
The element must be fastened only in the middle of the fastening slot and in no case from the edge. Otherwise, during temperature fluctuations, the panel will not be able to freely compress and expand.
The panel can be fixed to the wall only after its lock has been latched with the previous element. When fastening the element, you should not press it too hard or, conversely, pull it, as in the future this can cause distortion of all subsequent cladding parts.
In the course of work, we come to the conclusion that it is possible to implement quite well finishing the balcony with siding, here, as always, and above all, efficiency.
If it is necessary to drill holes in the siding to install various hanging elements on the facade, then their diameter should be 5 millimeters wider than necessary. This is necessary for unimpeded contraction and expansion of the cladding parts.