Technology for assembling a house from profiled timber: preparatory stage and workflow. Self-assembly of a house from profiled timber: technology, instructions How houses are assembled from profiled timber

Log cabin from profiled timber: shrinkage, assembly with your own hands. A house built from profiled timber is something more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive external data and excellent characteristics.

This is due to the fact that only natural materials without glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.

Counts:

The naturalness of the material.
Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season, the rooms will always be warm.
Reliability and durability.
Uniform and fast shrinkage of the material.

Building a house from a log house

Key stages of construction from a log house of profiled timber

Self-made construction of log cabins is a very complex and time-consuming process, which cannot be carried out without special skills. The first stage of work at which difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa should have a cross section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7 * 7 log house, which will be used only in summer, you can take material with a smaller section.

Do not forget that during self-assembly, shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7 * 7 into five parts.

Process:

Scheme drawing, design.
Fill .
work.
and outside work.

Main processes

Building walls

Creating and building walls is a very important process that should be done with all care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the pins, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is the ideal indicator for the dowels to easily enter the hole.

Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round use, do not forget about the compactor. To do this, in one of the bars it will be necessary to cut a protrusion, and in the other, cut a groove with similar dimensions. The layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. Such a structure will general design more reliable and stronger. You can’t make mistakes in laying, as you will have to take everything apart and start over.

If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is more than 7 * 7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. In the end, when building walls, you will need to cut down window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinkage of the profiled frame, you can proceed with the installation of windows.

Recent work in the assembly of the log house

This is the final stage of the build. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing works. After everything is done, the construction will be officially considered completed. As you can use mineral wool / glass wool. For interior decoration or is perfect, but the first option will be much better.

Ready log cabin - order or do it yourself?

A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent building with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its wonderful qualities, it is recommended to order or buy a finished building, since during the construction of one’s own hands there are many errors and problems due to which final version housing will not be comfortable.

With self-assembly, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which will not even be given by every specialist. Many people, for lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is as a result of an error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice”, since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and buy additional material. To avoid such mistakes, there is a share of common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.

Order and purchase - advantages and disadvantages

It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to such reasons:

Well, the main advantage in ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made building or place an order.

If you want to do the construction yourself, it will be more expensive for you for several reasons:

The material will be purchased from specialized firms. But these same firms purchase timber at a cost several times lower than they sell.
Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced professionals are unlikely to make such mistakes.
It is impossible to assemble a log house alone / together, so you will have to hire a team. Handymen who will help you will also have to pay.

Such costs usually exceed the payment for the order of the same log house in the company.

Additional advantages when ordering a log house from profiled timber

The advantages mentioned above are not the last ones on the list. When ordering or buying a finished log house, you will save time and effort. Even if you succeed on the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the shrinkage of the log house from the profiled timber. Contacting a company is a great option if you want to get a house in the shortest possible time, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.

You will also not be able to do the construction yourself in the winter. But this is not a hindrance for firms that, even in winter, collect production shops gables, walls and partitions. After that, they leave it for shrinkage and manage to do both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.

The construction of glued beams has the following advantages:

The material of manufacture is winter wood, and it has a dense structure.
built in winter time, has a plus in the form of freezing moisture from the walls.
So it is much better ventilated, due to which good shrinkage will be ensured.

Price

The price for the construction of a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross section and the complexity of the construction.

Prices are approximate.

Results

Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order in a popular company will be much more expensive than in a less popular company, but the quality of work will be the same.

Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before buying, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. Ready product can be placed and immediately started finishing work.

A profiled log house is a good housing for both seasonal and year-round use. All houses made of this material are very beautiful and attract everyone's attention.

Despite the widespread development of multi-storey residential and administrative buildings using concrete, glass and metal, classic wooden houses are still popular. One of the most reliable options during the construction of a wooden house, a bar has proven itself. The opportunity to build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands exists for everyone who has the corresponding desire and is ready to acquire building materials for the upcoming work. If you combine enthusiasm with competent planning and a responsible approach to each of the stages of construction - success is more than guaranteed!

The advantages of profiled timber as a material for the house

Profiled timber is a building material produced by processing coniferous trees: spruce, larch, cedar, pine. The inner side of the beam is a smooth polished surface, while outer side can be either round (imitate a log), or have a different shape, as well as repeat the contour inside, being completely flat.

On the side there are grooves and spikes that serve as joining elements for individual bars. The choice of the consumer often falls on the beam, not only because of its reliability indicators, which have been confirmed for more than a decade, but also due to the fact that the beams are environmentally friendly, since glue is not used in the process of their manufacture.

Another plus of profiled timber is a very good heat capacity and thermal insulation. This allows any resident and guest of cobbled houses to always feel comfortable in them. What is important, for all its merits, timber is not a very expensive material relative to its counterparts on the market and in the price range it seems real for most people to buy, even with an average income.

With the help of the elements already prepared on the bars for fastening, it will be relatively easy to assemble a house from them. But do not forget that profiled timber is a wood-based material, and, like any wooden object, it can bring unpleasant surprises in the form of fungus or mold contained on it. Of course, this can be avoided by timely processing of the timber with special mixtures to protect the surface from the effects of negative environmental factors.

The profiled timber has practically no problems with the occurrence of cracks, but the circumstances are different, so if damage to any paving element is found - repair work should be carried out immediately, since the cracks in the timber gradually expand. This is especially true for floors and ceilings made with timber.

If a brick house is located in a region with a constant cold climate, you should also take care of additional insulation of all its elements.

The initial stage of building a house from a bar

The initial stage of the construction of any house is the drafting of a project, a house built from profiled timber with your own hands is no exception. If there is still no desire to contact the services of a construction company, you can draw a project yourself. In this case, it should be immediately clear that the best period when you can start construction, it will be the winter season. When harvesting wood in the cold and then drying it for a long time at home, the timber will turn out to be of the highest quality and will sit evenly. However, abuse weather conditions not worth it - excessive frost will make the timber brittle.

As an option, you can purchase ready-made bars in accordance with individual requirements for building material. In this case, the grooves will already be cut, and building a house from profiled timber will become simple, as if you just need to fold a children's designer.

The foundation of a house made of profiled timber

Before you start the process of laying the foundation for a future cobbled house, you need to familiarize yourself with the conditions of the area where it will be located, find out on what basis the foundation of neighboring houses is made, especially if they also use profiled timber as a basis.

An ideal option for a house made of timber would be a strip foundation of the following types:

with shallow penetration;
columnar;
pile.

Construction scheme strip foundation with a shallow recess looks like this:

Marking: marking all the edges of the building and combining them with a cord, for more volumetric view. Thus, before your eyes there will already be a relatively accurate version of the location of the structure;
Digging a hole for a foundation. The depth should not exceed 0.6 meters, so as not to reduce the stability of the house in the future. Next, the bottom of the resulting trench must be covered with a layer of sand (about 10 cm), and sprinkled on top with a layer of rubble of approximately the same thickness;
Production of formwork or ordering such. At self-manufacturing it is necessary to use the best wood as a basis, without seams and deep cuts, if the choice fell on custom-made formwork, then it is better to choose the option of steel. The formwork is installed and leveled in the very center of the trench;
Laying the frame and reinforcement, not less than 2 belts;
Warming, hydro- and thermal insulation with the help of special materials: mounting foam, roofing material, etc.

Floor in a house made of profiled timber

The construction of each building originates from the creation of a row for subsequent laying out on an already processed and leveled waterproofing foundation. For the floor, a beam with a cross section of 100 * 50 millimeters is used. After the first row of the floor is ready, it must be treated with an antiseptic to increase the resistance of the material to negative environmental factors. Next, the floor lags are mounted and laid on the edge.

After the logs are laid, they will need to be left in this state for 1-2 days to adapt to the ambient temperature. The logs are laid according to a landmark, which can be set as follows: between the logs initially fixed at two opposite walls, a nylon thread screed is made every 1.5 meters.

Advice! The gaps that will form between the lags can later be used to fill with insulation. The best way to do this is to use mounting foam or mineral wool.

After laying the log, the installation of the subfloor and the installation of floor boards follow. It fits in various ways: with or without offset. You must first lay the initial layer, and then carry out the laying wooden flooring on him. Do not forget about waterproofing: it will fit on the rough foundation of the future floor. Penofol or dense polyethylene are perfect for this.

Finally, you need to lay the floor, for which any material is suitable, for example, a grooved board 3.6 centimeters thick.

Walls in a house made of profiled timber

The scheme for erecting the walls of a cobbled house from a profiled beam with your own hands is simple: you need to sequentially lay out rows of beams, and each next row is joined to the previous one using vertical connection pins - dowels. Nagels are installed according to the method of laying bricks: through 2-3 rows through one. For pins, several holes are drilled, with a diameter of up to 3.5 centimeters at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other.

In one of the bars, it will be necessary to cut out a protrusion, and in the second - a groove of the appropriate size. In some layers, the grooves and spikes alternate with each other, which makes the structure much more durable and excludes blowing from the corners.

When the dimensions of the structure being erected exceed 6 * 6 meters, at least one partition must be placed on the ground floor - it will provide additional support for the floor of the upper floor.

The last moment - in those places where windows are installed, it will be necessary to cut technological openings. Air will move through them during the drying of the material, and when the house finally sits down, it will be possible to install windows. As a material for window blocks, metal, plastic or wood can be used.

One of the most popular services in construction market today is the assembly of the log house. Using this technology, not only private houses are built, but also baths, as well as utility buildings. They are warm and attractive to look at.

If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some prefer to leave the walls in their original form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from a profiled beam with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.

Main steps

When assembling a house, it is necessary to remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of mounting links. natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried frame shrinks by about 9 cm.

The assembly is divided into several stages. At the first stage, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the assembly of the frame. The final work is the manipulation of the roof. After shrinkage, external and interior work.

The most important first crown

The technology for assembling a house from a profiled beam provides for devoting special attention first crown. It is one of the weak spots. This node will form the outline of the house. It is closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which pulls into the water from the ground.

The first crown is screened, these works provide for its separation from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. As it usually acts as roofing material, laid on a layer of bituminous mastic. A lining 100 mm beam is located on top, this is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled timber. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and the wall material.

The lining beam should be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to decay. The material in this case must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from profiled timber is delivered to the building site, you can start work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin the installation of the lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be covered with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is laid on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.

Floor beams must be cut into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be less problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are best made from larch.

The need for timber processing

Work on the assembly of houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the processing of the material with antiseptics. At the same time, you should take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only accessible sections of the walls.

Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Senezh and Tikurilla can act as antiseptic compounds.

Carrying out warming

Having studied the instructions for assembling a house from a profiled beam, you will learn that compaction is an obligatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of Finnish-type profiles involve laying a jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute sealant is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.

Using pins as a connection

Self assembly houses from profiled timber is accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. Products have an elongated shape and have a round or square section. The basis may be:

plastic;
metal;
wood.

If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden dowels are better than others. Such fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that the material does not deform during drying, and cracks do not form between the crowns. The pin will work on the bend and will not allow the beam to bend.

If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, then you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two bars should be connected to each other. Nagels are located in checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1500 mm.

The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 beams. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. Nagel is hammered with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from a profiled beam, you must choose dowels, the length of which will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.

Assembly nuances: work instructions

By purchasing ready kit to assemble a house, you can independently carry out its installation. In this case, each link will be in its place, glass slots are made in the products. It is necessary to carry out work according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation it is necessary to follow the diagram.

In the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each part. When laying with the profile, each rib must match. If the grooves and spikes are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This improves the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.

When assembling a house from a profiled beam, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other. If this rule is not observed, then the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The bars will have bowl cuts that connect the links together into an even masonry. If cups are not available, you can cut them out with a mobile cup cutter.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can proceed to rough and fine finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, the entrance doors and windows. Subfloor installation in progress. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will keep warm very well.

Whereas protective impregnation must be applied necessarily. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, then you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With the help of such a mixture, you can emphasize the structure of wood and give it a rich shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling a house from a profiled beam, you can also carry out insulation. This process usually involves:

tow;
glass wool boards;
mineral wool;
linen cloth.

Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will contribute to the reflection of heat inside the premises. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.

It is better not to use expanded polystyrene as thermal insulation, as it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will eventually cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth isolating the walls with roofing material, as well as with glassine, as well as with plastic wrap. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable material.

Finally

Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to carry out the installation of the walls, guided by the principle of the Lego constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, drywall, hardboard or lining is usually used.

When constructing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated board or ondulin. Metal roofing is perfect. Insulation in this case begins with the attic floor. Then the masters go to the roof.

The decision to build a house from a bar is not taken immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a beam of 195 mm thick is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating, it is better to insulate it (outside 10 mm of mineral wool) and make a ventilated facade. Then there will be more savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

What wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, the wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak timber, but the price will be simply sky-high. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all conifers, most often they put a house from a pine beam. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. From spruce even less often, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest, and even difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% is pine. But with the type of timber you need to understand.

According to the processing method, timber happens:

Ordinary or solid, unplaned timber. Sawn from a solid log, the section is a quadrilateral (square or rectangle).
Profiled bar. It is also sawn from a solid log, but after it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with which one beam is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of complex shape. The side faces can be even, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "castle" - numerous beards and recesses.
Glued beam. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

We will analyze the features of each type of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if we take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, interventional insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, it will be very strong to blow through the gaps between the crowns. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and one cannot do without finishing inside and outside.

In addition to laying the interventional layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. A caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the interventional sealant makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, where to put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be more: add interventional insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of exterior and interior decoration to the cost of the timber. Please also note that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are sawn on the spot. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How the cut is made determines how warm the corners will be. And in log house It is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of profiled timber

Considering a profiled beam, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. Anyway, that's how it should be. At good quality finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) through slots cannot be. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that it is possible to lay walls without interventional insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least a thin, but a heater. Someone uses a thin substrate for a laminate, someone uses a self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile among developers lately is the “comb”. She may have a "tooth" different heights and width, and we love everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they insure themselves by laying insulation.

Several typical beam profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are glued beams, but profiled beams are made of exactly the same profile)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. Matching in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), it can be chamber dried with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. Features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in the conditions elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part goes into marriage, and the rest is sold for more high price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high cost of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber drying is considered wood 8-12%.

Either way, gaps will need to be sealed. The caulk is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. Also, the beam can turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The frame is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue on the ends)

It may be easier with the assembly. If you simply order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled beam, as from a regular one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the beam: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to cost a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: assemble such a constructor highly qualified not required. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made at the factory. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see a few of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - it will blow incredibly, and the caulk will not save you well

In general, there are pluses and minuses, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper, if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are sawn, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional and 80-90% than profiled.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after a few weeks the folded frame can be immediately put under the roof, and after a few more weeks you can start finishing. This time is necessary for the shrinkage of the bowls, and the geometric dimensions of the glued beam should not change. That is, it turns out significant savings time - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued beads really that good? In terms of build speed, yes. But it has serious shortcomings. First: it is glued. What crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many put wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive one remains. appearance, but finished with a clapboard of the corresponding profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued laminated timber for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

The walls are light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the cost of its installation will be lower.
Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements in the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar (for small buildings of temporary residence - cottages, baths, etc.) or or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting”, prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compositions that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

Cut-off waterproofing. So that the wood from the foundation does not draw moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials- coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick rolled.
Laying crown crown. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations designed for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board impregnated with bituminous mastic with processing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top - the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs, which are poured into the foundation.
Draft floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, the subfloor boards are laid out along the logs without nailing them.
Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered”. Cut out according to the pattern. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is outlined, then it is cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a rather high degree of tool proficiency is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the sawing. The forms of connecting the beam are in the picture.

We have already talked about laying interventional insulation: when using an ordinary beam, it is mandatory, under a profiled one it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular shape or hairpins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When arranging a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, with a different order. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled truss system. In this form, the house is left for a long time to shrink.
Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut window and door openings, put a pigtail or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not installed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the timber. If the dowels were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber may hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by hanging around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while examining for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it was covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohjust) and stacked.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nagels were sent to bathe in impregnation. AT old bath poured impregnation and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs cast into concrete.

Laid the first crown. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

Let's change the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no skew, they must be equal. The allowable skew is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. So that there were no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually rising. In a checkerboard pattern, we fasten them with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawn cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to deal with this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a lot of time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber are driven out

Let's start assembling truss system. First, as is customary, two extreme farm, then - everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing felt. Let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth. They will dry with the house.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls

In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.

Next to the stack equip workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.

The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.

Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 — Rack extreme; 2 - l-shaped rack of scaffolding of the first tier on side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — Rack central; 5 - cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.

At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.

Marking bars for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1 - joints of beams.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main timber of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).

How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two patterns (highlighted brightly yellow) for marking the beam of the longitudinal walls. 4 - a groove for a root spike; 5 - a groove for a thorn inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - dobor bar.

The picture above shows the pattern. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and With through holes are drilled, and at points a and d incisions have been made.

To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.

How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TU) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams.

Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).

If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. Corner connections bars are more dense, "warm".

How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to lower crown metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the beam.

cm., pos. one.

Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.

The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hard rock tree. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to drill holes in a beam for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.

To drill holes in a beam, deep enough and of large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to a drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two stages. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.

In places of drilling the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.

Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite" powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved beam

In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket

Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant

For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss was used for this or linen tow. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.

The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of the log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

Verticality of corners.
Height of corners and walls.
The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
The straightness of the walls.
The quality of laying interventional insulation.

For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 — bottom trim; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - plinth.

On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.

With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

a - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d - an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.

The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

How to install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting the opening under right size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation windows in a timber wall. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — mezhventsovy heater; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.

Can be constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.

Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.