How to insulate a house from the outside and with what: materials, recommendations, tips. Insulation of a private house. We are looking for a universal insulation The best way to insulate a house from the outside

The Russian climate situation, perhaps, is not so different from the situation in other northern countries. But people living in private housing have no time for abstract encyclopedic research. They need high-quality insulation for their homes so as not to suffer from the cold and not lose too much money when buying fuel for stoves or paying for electric heating.

Pros and cons of external insulation

First of all, you need to figure out whether it is really necessary, this is the façade insulation itself. At least one positive side He always has this: the entire thickness of the wall is insulated. Eliminating the heating of its individual parts initially solves the problem with the formation of condensation inside, with “crying” surfaces in the house. Engineers claim (and reviews confirm their assessment) that insulating buildings from the outside allows you to leave the interior space untouched. It will not be spent on very thick and not always beautiful-looking structures.

Before you rejoice and look for SNiP suitable for a particular home, you should pay attention to the potential disadvantages. Obviously, it will not be possible to carry out such work in any weather: rain and wind, and sometimes cold, do not allow it to be done efficiently. The total cost of such finishing turns out to be very high; for many people such expenses are unaffordable. The harshness of external conditions limits the choice of insulation materials or forces the creation of protective structures. And besides, if the house is divided into two halves, there is no point in insulating only one of them from the outside; heat loss will only decrease slightly.

Methods

So, insulating the outside walls of a private house has many more advantages than disadvantages. But it is important to understand the features of individual materials and structures.

Houses made of expanded clay concrete blocks are insulated from the outside most often using:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene foam;
• its more modern analogue is penoplex.

The first option is preferable due to zero fire hazard and low cost. But the problem is that affordable price is largely negated by the need to organize a protective screen. Polystyrene foam is lightweight, also belongs to the budget group of materials, and it can be installed quickly.

At the same time, we must not forget about the danger of damage to the insulating layer by rodents and fire risks. Penoplex is environmentally friendly; mice and rats will not be happy with it. Disadvantages - considerable high cost and lack of microventilation.

Quite often people are faced with the problem of insulating the external facades of old panel houses. The main condition for high-quality thermal protection is its design in which the permeability to vapor increases from the living space to the street. There is no need to remove the external cladding of the home; a number of technologies have been developed that make it possible to install thermal insulation on top of it.

When choosing suitable option You should give preference to solutions that do not overload the foundation and absorb the least amount of water. It is the significant heaviness and the presence of the dew point inside the hygroscopic thermal protection that cause the most problems for the owners of panel buildings.

Insulation of country houses for winter accommodation very relevant.

It is imperative to provide thermal protection:

• internal floors on the ground;
• floors of the first tier (if the foundation is not insulated);
• external walls;
• cold attic floor or attic roof.

It makes no sense to single out any one of these elements, even something as important as walls. If at least one area is not insulated, all other work can be considered wasted, as well as the money spent on it. The walls must be equipped with waterproofing and vapor barrier; when choosing mineral or ecological wool for insulation, it is necessary to leave a ventilated gap of 50-100 mm. Insulation has its own specifics panel house from outside. The slightest irregularities should be removed, and ideally, leveling should be done using a primer.

If paint is cracking or other finishes are falling off, all these layers are removed., even if the technology does not require such manipulation. In most cases for external thermal protection concrete walls foam is used, and the most reliable way to attach it is to connect glue and dowels. The work is carried out from the bottom up; a special bar is installed at the lowest point, designed to prevent the material from slipping. Please note: it is possible to replace dowels with plastic nails. Regardless of fastening methods, it is necessary to carefully monitor any gaps that appear.

Separate conversation deserves insulation of the junction of the wall and the roof. This work is done traditionally using stone wool, but amateurs can modern technologies It’s better to focus on Macroflex foam. In many cases, a steel bonding apron is formed. Whether it is needed in a particular house, on a particular wall, only trained specialists can find out. The insulation of junctions is too complex to be done properly by the owners of the house themselves or by randomly found freelance craftsmen.

Types of materials

External insulation of the walls of private houses can be made with a variety of materials. It will not work to use sawdust for this purpose, because such protection is always bulk. Strictly speaking, the layer of sawdust is placed inside the wall and should be quite thick. Mostly, owners of frame and bulk buildings resort to such a solution. But it should be considered as a last resort: even waste supplemented with lime wood production too susceptible to caking and getting wet.

For the construction of private houses, many prefer to use foam concrete or aerated concrete; these two materials are stronger than wood. However, they need to be insulated according to a special scheme. Preferred solutions are polyurethane foam and mineral wool. The second material is the cheapest and is not subject to ignition; it is easy to work with. Extraneous sounds are dampened in the cotton layer, and they will bother residents less.

Some developers use sawdust concrete; it is excellent for saving heat in frame houses. To make this material with your own hands, you can use large sawdust and calibration shavings obtained on woodworking machines. An essential component of the mixture is liquid glass. Passing reinforcement structures through the walls will help to avoid the mixture separating into individual components. It is recommended to immediately drill holes for them.

Perlite is used not so much outside, but as part of multi-layer walls. A prerequisite for the reliable service of this material is vapor barrier inside and high-quality waterproofing outside. To reduce the risk of water saturation and loss of thermal qualities, perlite is usually mixed in equal proportions with cement and expanded clay. If you need insulation that has truly outstanding characteristics, it is difficult to find something more practical than basalt wool. Since it is impossible to work on the facade in its pure form, you will have to buy special slabs.

Like other cotton coverings, this solution increases not only thermal insulation, but also sound insulation. This circumstance is very important for private houses located near the highway, railways, airports and industrial buildings. Please note that not every adhesive is suitable for attaching such boards to a wood base. Installation can be carried out using wet or dry methods. In the second case, it is necessary to purchase dowels with extended caps.

To decorate the facade of a private house, it is permissible to use only basalt slabs with a specific gravity of at least 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Reeds are sometimes used as additional heat protection; anyone can prepare the necessary raw materials and prepare them for work. The stems will have to be laid as tightly as possible so that there are as few loopholes for cold air between them as possible. Problem fire danger can be solved by impregnation with a fire retardant or bischofite; these substances increase the fire resistance of the reed mass to level G1 (spontaneous extinguishing when heating stops).

Polyurethane foam

If there is no particular desire to use natural materials, you can safely use polyurethane foam panels. The advantage of this solution is the combination of thermal and acoustic protection living space. Polyurethane foam does not allow water to pass through, and therefore there is no need for a layer of additional waterproofing, resulting in cost savings. Polyurethane foam easily adheres to the base material and therefore working with it is quite simple. It should also be taken into account weaknesses– high cost of the coating, its instability under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Siding

In some cases, the pie, completed on the outside with siding, also becomes an insulating structure. Metal itself, no matter how beautiful it looks, transmits a lot of heat. And even vinyl structures are not much better in this regard. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for underlayment under steel or vinyl, but when choosing it, consider its high flammability. Also, EPS and polystyrene foam sometimes cannot effectively dampen extraneous sounds.

Light insulation under the siding is provided roll materials , including polyethylene foam with an outer foil coating. Foam concrete and aerated concrete insulation allows you to avoid interest from gnawing animals and guarantee complete thermal protection. When using expanded polystyrene, first you need to cut the sheets according to the exact dimensions. Provided that the sheathing is planned specifically for specific sheets, the number of cut parts will be minimal. If mineral wool is installed, it is recommended to leave it unrolled for 60-90 minutes before cutting or filling the frame, then the result will be better and more stable.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is good because it does not interfere with ventilation in the room through the walls.

It is also capable of covering uneven terrain on:

• tree;
• brick;
• stone

In this regard, subsequent finishing is simplified, and the rough surface becomes as smooth as possible. When working on the outside of walls, in contrast to internal thermal insulation, the problem of formaldehyde release completely disappears. Important: if the relative air humidity exceeds 85%, placing mineral wool in any form is unacceptable.

Fastening is usually done using anchors, and a brick wall is placed on top of them. When insulating a house that is already in use, you cannot leave metal structures inside the walls; they can rust very quickly.

Plaster

As a result, the total thickness of the wall and the load it exerts on the foundation are noticeably reduced. To improve the thermal properties of a house, the most common dry mixture is suitable, to which perlite sand, pumice chips and other fine fillers are added.

Foam plastic

The use of foam structures is excellent for providing thermal protection to buildings. This insulation functions calmly at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees. Among different options materials, you should pay attention to those that are impregnated with fire-resistant additives and filled with fireproof carbon dioxide. Bacteria and fungal organisms do not like foam plastic very much and practically do not settle in it. Cracked areas of walls and holes will first have to be covered to get a decent result.

The range of insulation materials, of course, does not end with the listed materials. Quite a lot of people use polyurethane foam, which is no worse than ready-made PPU panels. Excellent adhesion helps the liquid to immediately penetrate the surface and last reliably for many years. For domestic purposes, low-pressure cylinders are usually used: the quality of the reagent is no worse than in professional equipment, the only difference is that its release is slower. It should be noted that this technology cannot completely eliminate the appearance of air bubbles in the foam layer, and a wall made of low-quality material is sometimes damaged by pressure.

Arbolite is used not only for the construction of houses, but also to improve the thermal qualities of already erected structures. This building material is almost entirely made from natural wood, which makes it possible to improve the thermal protection of stone and brick buildings. But it is important to understand that it itself is easily blown and wet, and almost instantly becomes penetrated by bridges of cold.

If the thickness of the wood concrete wall is 0.3 m or more, and the masonry is done correctly, there will be no special need for additional protection from the cold in the regions of central Russia. Insulation of wood concrete is required in the regions of the Far North (over the entire surface). The points where the heat loss to the outside is most intense should be insulated in any area.

Among natural materials, clay is often used for external thermal protection of walls (it is used both on its own and in mixtures with straw or sawdust). The undoubted advantages of such a solution are low price and no risk of fire. Many people are also attracted by the simplicity of the workflow.

Important: inattention to the proportions of the component mixtures can lead to a rapid loss of their valuable properties and to the delamination of the prepared thermal insulation. In order for the clay mass to stick to the surface of the wall, you will have to install structures made of boards and durable cardboard.

Good results can be achieved with felt insulation. It is especially recommended for heat protection wooden houses. Laying can be carried out in several layers at once, which improves the quality of insulation; the affordable price allows you not to worry about excessive costs in this case.

Please note: before ordering the material, you should check with professionals whether felt insulation is suitable for a certain climate zone.

Like cotton wool insulation, it dampens sounds coming from outside, but you also need to keep in mind possible problems:

• insufficient efficiency in large dwellings and multi-storey buildings;
• unsuitability for insulation of stone and brick structures;
• relatively large thickness of the insulation created;
• the need for careful alignment of the styling (every small fold is very harmful).

An alternative natural materials is wall insulation with isolon. This insulation effectively reflects radiant infrared energy and, based on a number of special tests, has been recognized as a comfortable, safe product. It is very widely used in both private and apartment buildings. Izolon is sold in large format rolls, so it is especially important to properly calculate the need for it. In general, approaches to calculating the need for insulation materials deserve special attention.

Calculation of material thickness

Calculation of the required thickness of penofol mats must be made in accordance with the standards set out in SNiP 2.04.14. This document, approved in 1988, is very difficult to understand and is best left to professionals to work with. Non-specialists can roughly estimate the required parameters using both online calculators and installed software. The first option is the simplest, but not always correct; It is difficult to take into account all the necessary nuances. The width of penofol sheets is always standard - 200 mm.

You should not strive to buy the thickest possible material; sometimes it will be more profitable to vary the desired number of foil layers. The double aluminum block has the highest thermal and acoustic qualities. Optimal results (judging by operating experience) are obtained by penofol with a thickness of 5 mm. And if the goal is to achieve the highest thermal protection and sound insulation without skimping on costs, you should choose a centimeter design. A layer of foam foil of 4-5 mm is enough to provide the same protection as when using 80-85 mm of mineral wool, while the foil material does not absorb water.

Preparing the walls

Forming wood sheathing units is simpler and easier than processing walls made of other materials. In this case, the design of the material layout must take into account the basic properties of wood: its high permeability to steam and the likelihood of fungal infection. The frame can be formed from wooden beam or aluminum profile. Special attachment points for heat-insulating material and sheathing for the front finish should be provided. Roll insulation is attached to timber walls using slats.

A two-layer thermal insulation coating must be mounted on a double sheathing(simple or supplemented with brackets). Get wooden frame you can use an electric jigsaw (if you choose the right blade), but it is recommended to cut aluminum structures with metal scissors. You should not try to speed up the process by using an angle grinder; it damages the anti-corrosion layer and reduces the shelf life of the thermal insulation. Screws, bolts and self-tapping screws are best screwed into wooden walls using a screwdriver with a set of attachments. Battery version of the device fits better everything, because then there will be no wire interfering forever.

It is advisable to adjust wooden parts and drive in disc-shaped dowels with a hammer or rubber mallet. If you need to install membrane films, the best solution is to use a stapler with a set of staples. When preparing the sheathing, each part of it is checked according to the building level: even minor deviations, invisible to the eye, often lead to improper operation of the insulation. Of course, even before installation begins, wooden walls must be impregnated with several layers of antiseptic composition. Using a spray gun will help speed up this impregnation.

Installation stages

Helpful to consider step by step instructions on how to insulate the external walls of gas silicate houses with your own hands. A prerequisite for the normal operation of most of these buildings is the installation of insulating material and protection from external moisture. If the blocks are decorated with brick, all protective materials are laid out in the space between it and the gas silicate. Masonry 40-50 cm thick middle lane Russia, as a rule, does not require additional thermal insulation. But if structures 30 cm or thinner are used, this work becomes mandatory.

It is recommended not to use cement mortars; they form insufficiently dense joints, allowing abundant heat to pass into the outside world and frost into the building. It is much more correct to mount the blocks themselves using special glue, which guarantees the tightest possible fit. At the same time, it reduces the likelihood of cold bridges forming.

When choosing which technology to insulate a gas silicate house, you should pay attention to:

• number of floors in it;
• use of windows and glazing method;
• carrying out engineering communications;
• other structural and architectural details.

When insulating gas silicate, most professionals give preference to slab structures based on stone wool or EPS. In third place in popularity are façade insulation systems based on plaster. Polystyrene foam and traditional mineral wool rolls are outsiders: there are no special advantages over the leaders, but there are additional difficulties. Among the latest developments, it is worth paying attention to thermal panels, which are distinguished not only by excellent thermal protection, but also by a decent aesthetic appearance.

If any type of mineral wool is chosen for work, you will need:

• attach the vertical sheathing;
• lay waterproofing and vapor barrier (separate or combined in one material);
• mount the cotton wool itself and let it stand;

• put a second level of insulation from moisture and steam;
• install a reinforcing mesh;
• apply primer and finishing material;
• paint the surface (if necessary).

Installation of cotton slabs is carried out only with the adhesives indicated on the packaging. It is permissible to decorate the walls above the insulation not with paint, but with siding. It is recommended to choose the densest types of cotton wool to avoid premature caking and slipping. When installing guides, they are mounted 10-15 mm closer to each other than the width of a single slab. This will allow you to fill the frame as tightly as possible and eliminate the slightest cracks.

Expanded polystyrene is even better suited for insulating houses from the outside than mineral wool. But its increased thermal insulation is depreciated by low mechanical strength. If significant loads are obviously applied to the wall, it is better to abandon such a solution. Filling the seams between the plates is permissible only with polyurethane foam. External cladding with siding or application of facade plaster will prevent the harmful effects of weather elements and ultraviolet radiation.

External thermal insulation of a basement in a private house should be made only with materials that are as resistant to moisture as possible. After all, even the most reliable protective layers can be damaged, and this problem, for obvious reasons, cannot be eliminated quickly and easily.

The basic requirements are:

• carry out all work only in the dry season and in warm weather;
• be sure to remove the soil around the foundation of the house;
• apply moisture-resistant mastic in a continuous layer;

• install insulation 50 cm above the top line of the foundation;
• treat the insulating layer remaining underground with an additional waterproofing coating;
• arrange drainage;
• decorate the base with decorative structures and materials

Professionals insulate houses made of reinforced concrete slabs as carefully as possible. This material not only transmits a lot of heat on its own, but is also designed in such a way that thermal efficiency is significantly reduced. Developers are striving to make reinforced concrete products are light and compact by construction standards, so it is recommended to take into account the information from the accompanying documentation.

A common mistake is to use the cheapest grades of foam; they are too short-lived and do not provide high-quality insulation even for their service life. Note: before insulation basements It is recommended to first ensure their high-quality ventilation in full.

Insulation with foil is quite new and practical solution, which combines three valuable properties:

• curbing heat flow;
• blocking the wetting of the insulating layer and its substrate;
• dampening external sounds.

Modern options foil materials make it possible to simultaneously insulate a wall, partitions in a house, pipelines, and even auxiliary buildings. Mineral wool, covered with foil on one side, is recommended for use mainly in non-residential premises. Regardless of the type of material, it is attached in such a way that the reflector “looks” into the building.

From exterior finishing It is necessary to leave a gap of 20 mm to the insulating layer in order to enhance the thermal insulation with an air gap. On the first floors, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor.

Enough widespread industrial waste has been used in thermal protection of private houses; many people use metallurgical slag for this purpose. Nickel and copper smelting wastes are in greater demand than others, since they are chemically stable, and their tensile strength starts from 120 MPa. Using slags with a specific gravity of less than 1000 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, you need to create a heat-protective layer of 0.3 m. Most often, blast furnace waste is used to insulate floors, not walls.

Sometimes you can hear statements about cardboard insulation. Theoretically, this is possible, but in practice there are a lot of problems and difficulties with this. The only option that meets the necessary requirements is corrugated cardboard, which has air gaps that retain heat.

The paper itself, even if very thick, only protects from the wind. Corrugated material should be laid in several layers with mandatory gluing of the joints. The fewer connections between individual layers, the better.

The most the best varieties cardboard:

• hygroscopic;
• when wet they smell very bad;
• conduct too much heat compared to other options.

It is much better to use craft paper: it is also thin, but much stronger than a cardboard sheet. Such a coating effectively protects the main insulation from the wind (in most cases, mineral wool is located below). In terms of thermal protection parameters, kraft paper is identical to natural wood, and it also allows steam to pass through well.

The advantages of insulation with ecological wool are evidenced by the fact that products for it are produced on an industrial scale and even using different technologies. The dry method of applying cellulose involves pouring granules into designated niches. It is important to consider that ecowool is produced in the form of a small fraction and can generate dust. A number of reagents contained in this insulation can provoke local allergic reactions. Therefore, all work is carried out using rubber or fabric gloves and respirators (gas masks), and a layer of environmental wool is surrounded by a barrier of kraft paper (it cannot be replaced with cardboard!).

To learn how to insulate the outside walls of a house with your own hands, see the following video.

Western trends brought ordinary Soviet people not only beautiful and available methods home decoration, but also other advanced technologies. For example, insulating houses from the outside. With this you can significantly save on heating your home and get rid of annoying mold on the walls and dampness in the house. Basic requirements for insulation: availability, efficiency and ease of installation. In addition, the materials should be light so as not to heavily load the foundation of the house. Unfortunately, not all materials for home insulation can combine the above qualities, which is why you can find such a variety of thermal insulation materials on the market. We will talk about them below.

Ways to insulate your home

There are various materials, which have high thermal insulation properties. But they are all mounted on walls using a similar principle.

Insulation of a house from the outside can be done in three ways:

• Thermal insulation material is secured using adhesive solution, and at the end it is finished with plaster.
• Creating a three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with a special solution. After which an outer wall one brick thick is built. Between the insulation and new wall there must be an air gap.
• - another option on how to insulate a house from the outside. The wall is covered with waterproofing material, and insulation is attached on top. Afterwards, a wind barrier is installed, and the frame is sheathed on the outside with clapboard. This principle is used to insulate a house with siding from the outside.

Each of these methods has its own disadvantages and advantages. In addition, manufacturers are filling the market with combined insulating materials that require special installation technology.

How to choose material for insulation?

All thermal insulation materials differ in their properties, installation method, price and durability. They are united only by a common purpose: they are all needed to insulate a home. Most often used for insulation: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, cellulose materials, basalt slabs, etc. Their main differences are moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters play a role of dependence on climatic conditions, and thermal conductivity is important when calculating the thickness of the insulating material. So, instead of laying foam concrete in several layers, it is better to use polystyrene foam, which is several times thinner, but has the same thermal conductivity.

Preparing walls for insulation

Once the material has been selected, you can safely move on to the next stage. Insulation of the walls of a house from the outside cannot take place without them. preliminary preparation. The old layer of plaster or insulating material is removed down to the very base. At the finish line you will have a bare brick, concrete or wooden wall in front of you.

We clean the surface from dust and dirt and apply a thorough primer. It is best to use solutions with deep penetration. If there are protrusions or recesses larger than two centimeters in size, they must be sanded or covered to the same level as the wall.

After the walls have dried from the primer, we install plumbs and beacons along which the insulating material will be laid. To simplify installation, screws and anchors are installed along the edges, and a thread or fishing line is pulled tightly between them and the plumb lines. Thus, a strong grid should form on the wall, which will serve as a guide when working.

How to insulate a log house?

To insulate it, it is recommended to use ventilated facade technology. This way the walls will breathe and mold will not grow in the house. Insulating houses from the outside requires treating the walls with fire-resistant substances and antiseptics. The gaps between the logs are sealed with jute fiber or tape tow. Polyurethane foam will also work.

Using vertical beams, sheathing is mounted on the façade of the house. Then layers of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. It is better to use mineral wool or fiberglass. The heat insulator begins to be laid from the bottom up, and then secured with dowels. They are attached to the top of the insulation; you can use a stapler for this.

At the last stage, the facing material is installed. In the role of which you can use lining, panels, etc.

How to insulate timber walls?

The stages of thermal insulation of such a house are almost no different from those of a wooden house. However, there is still one difference. Walls made of timber have a flat surface, so insulation of houses from the outside can be carried out using not only roll insulators, but also tile materials such as mineral wool and glass wool. The installation technology and all stages are identical to those described above.

How to insulate a brick house?

Insulating a brick house from the outside can be done in several ways:

• Ventilated facade. Thermal insulation of the room is carried out using mineral wool or foam boards. The material is attached to the walls using dowels or adhesive solutions. Then the sheathing is made of bars or metal profile. And then we rely on the thermal insulation diagram wooden house.
• Easy wet method. This is a multi-layer technology. Foam plastic or hard mineral wool are used. The material is attached to the walls using adhesive mortar or dowels. No lathing is needed here. A mesh is attached to the insulation, and two types of plaster are applied on top.
• Well masonry. This method is used not only for brick, but also for block houses. At the time of construction of the house, thermal insulation material is fixed between the walls and additional vapor barrier and waterproofing material is laid. To insulate an already finished building, it is better to use moisture-resistant materials. These include polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and others. If you want to insulate a structure with an air gap between the walls, you can use a liquid heat insulator, which will harden after a while. In addition, the air gap can be filled with polystyrene foam. It, unlike mineral wool, can be easily placed in the space between walls.

If insulating a brick house from the outside does not bring the desired results, you should think about insulating the floor, roof and windows. It is the poor condition of these sources that contributes to significant heat loss.

Foam insulation

One of the most cost-effective ways to keep your home warm is to insulate the outside of your home with foam. To begin with, a so-called shelf is installed at the bottom of the wall; it is necessary to level the first row of foam.

The material is secured with dowels or glue. To ensure that the work is level, use the vertical mesh mentioned above and a level. For density and stability of the structure, the next row of polystyrene foam is laid with a shift of half a sheet (like bricks when laying). At corners and around windows, the material is secured using metal corners. After all the walls are covered with foam sheets, a plastic mesh is attached on top and plaster is applied: starting, finishing and decorative.

Insulation with mineral wool

Thermal insulation with mineral wool is very similar to insulation with cellulose materials and basalt slabs. To fix mineral wool use frame structure and lathing. It should fit tightly into the formed cells, leaving no gaps. Then, before the cladding, a reinforcing mesh is attached and plastering is carried out. Wall decoration can be different types: siding, lining, brick wall, etc.

Insulating the outside of houses with mineral wool is a great way to insulate your home and save on heating costs.

Evgeniy Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

The façade of residential buildings cannot always withstand winter frosts and piercing winds, which makes the room feel cold. Insulating the outside of your home will help protect the building from moisture, keeping hot air indoors. In the article you will learn what insulating walls outside is, how to increase the temperature inside a wooden house, and what is the difference between thermal insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

What is wall insulation

A common method of energy saving is insulation - thermal insulation for walls outside or inside a building, made with special materials. By insulating the façade of your apartment, you will get rid of fungus, increase protection from noise, and improve thermoregulation - the room will be cool in summer and warm in winter. Insulation not only becomes a barrier between cold air and the internal microclimate of the home, but also protects the building from moisture and sun, increasing its service life.

Methods for insulating walls outside

There are internal and external insulation walls of the house. The second type of thermal insulation is more effective than the first, since it does not reduce the area of ​​the room and removes condensation from interior walls, retains heat longer. There are four methods of facade thermal insulation:

1. facing - a method that combines thermal insulation with decorative finishing;
2. hinged - an expensive method that uses insulated structures made of steel sheets and a layer of cladding (plastic siding, wooden lining, blockhouse);
3. “wet” - a method that involves attaching foam plastic to the facade using glue, applying a mesh, finishing primer and plaster;
4. spraying liquid insulation - polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the facade and applied to it decorative coating or hanging panels.

Insulation of the house

Up to 50% of home heat escapes through the wall facade, so insulating houses is a necessary procedure for those who want to maintain a comfortable microclimate in their home and save on electricity. When choosing insulation for the walls of a house outside, you should focus on the wall material, since concrete, brick, wood and block structures are used different technologies thermal insulation. It is cheaper to thermally insulate a private house than an apartment in a multi-storey building.

Insulation of apartments

If you live in apartment building with central heating system, insulation of the apartment from the outside - best option, which will help avoid additional costs for maintaining a comfortable room temperature using electricity. By insulating an apartment, you can solve the problem of sealing seams in panel high-rise buildings. Not all inhabitants multi-storey building agree to insulate their home, so apartments are often spot-insulated, which can lead to the destruction of the main wall at the joints with the insulated surface.

Insulation for walls

You should choose the right materials for insulating the walls outside, taking into account what the building is built from, how many floors it has, and the climatic features of the area. The microclimate of the room depends entirely on the choice of materials and quality of installation. Insulation materials are distinguished according to the following criteria:

• thermal conductivity;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• soundproofing;
• airtightness;
• waterproof;
• environmental safety;
• biostability.

External insulation gives the desired result only if the thermal insulation materials fit tightly to the frame of the room, without air gaps. There are the following types of insulation for external walls:

• foam;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose.

Foam insulation

Wall insulation with foam plastic is gaining more and more popularity. This light material, inexpensive, easy to use. The obvious advantages of polystyrene foam are moisture resistance, high sound insulation, and excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material are the ability to ignite with the release of toxic substances, fragility, and poor breathability. Before installation, you need to draw horizontal lines work surface, which will become the lower and upper edges of the insulation placement. The foam is fixed to a special adhesive solution.

Insulation with mineral wool

A common method of thermal insulation is to insulate walls with mineral wool. This is a fibrous material made from mineral raw materials, non-flammable, and highly breathable. Mineral wool is suitable for installation on all types of building structures. The material is resistant to caustic substances, but absorbs water, so it needs special system waterproofing. Mineral wool has a long service life - up to 70 years.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

One of the best ways thermal insulation is considered to be the insulation of a building from the outside with pressed polystyrene foam, the second name of which is “penoplex”. The material is slightly denser than polystyrene foam, less flammable, and durable. Expanded polystyrene is waterproof and resistant to deformation. One of the disadvantages is poor sound insulation. Penoplex is available in the form of slabs, which must be fixed without gaps to protect the insulation from damage by rodents.

Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the material onto the prepared facade. Using this substance as insulation has the following advantages:

• the material, expanding, fills cracks and small depressions;
• polyurethane foam has good adhesion - it fits perfectly to the base, covering the surface without joints, with a continuous layer;
• the substance becomes durable after hardening;
• it has increased moisture resistance;
• polyurethane foam serves as an excellent sound insulator.

Insulation with basalt slabs

Reliable insulation of the external walls of the house is provided by environmentally friendly basalt slabs made from mineral wool. The material does not ignite, has excellent windproof and cold-resistant abilities, and does not accumulate moisture. Thermal insulation with basalt slabs allows for almost any façade finishing. Installation of the material has a simple technology, so you can do it yourself. External thickness The material is deceptive - you can even cut it with a kitchen knife.

How to insulate a house from the outside and with what

External wall insulation will significantly reduce heat loss indoors. The choice of materials and thermal insulation technology depends on specific conditions - the house is made of brick or wood, the attic or ground floor will be insulated. By insulating the facade correctly, you will make your home warm, protect the room from the formation of fungus, mold, dampness and isolate your home from extraneous street noise.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what

A house made of wood has some advantages over a stone house or a brick building - the cost is lower, the environmental friendliness is higher. The main disadvantages are: low thermal conductivity of the timber, small thickness of the walls and the presence of gaps between them. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house can be done by constructing a curtain wall ventilation façade with mineral wool, sprayed polyurethane or sheathing the façade with polystyrene foam. When insulating a wooden country house, you need to take care of the vapor barrier layer and waterproofing. Insulation for the external walls of a house will allow you to:

• transform the facade;
• protect the tree from adverse effects environment;
• increase thermal efficiency;
• save interior space;
• prevent the occurrence of dampness and mold;
• protect from cold winds.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside using modern methods

In order to maintain a stable comfortable temperature in the house all year round, it is recommended to carry out insulation brick walls outside. When choosing insulation, you should take into account what kind of brick the building is built from (hollow, solid, ceramic, silicate). Brick houses are often insulated using the hinged ventilated facade method or the “wet” method. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, and expanded polystyrene are used as insulation.

How to insulate the outside walls of a house inexpensively

People often wonder how to cheaply insulate a house from the outside. If you don’t know how cheaper it is to insulate a house from the outside, pay attention to polystyrene foam. This insulation may be slightly inferior to others in thermal insulation capabilities, but it does a good job of maintaining a comfortable temperature. The material has excellent thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, its main disadvantage is flammability. Working with polystyrene foam is easy, so you can buy the material and try to insulate your home yourself, also saving on paying for the work of craftsmen.

Price for external wall insulation

Thermal insulation of a home is not a cheap pleasure. If you calculate the costs of heating a building with electricity, it becomes clear that the price of the service will soon pay for itself. The cost of thermal insulation is calculated taking into account the selected materials, the complexity of the work, and the size of the insulated area. Find out in the table below how much it costs to insulate a house outside in Moscow, and how the price of the service differs in different construction companies.

Insulation of houses is becoming more and more important with increasing prices for utilities. You can save a lot of money by doing everything yourself and first studying how to insulate private houses with your own hands. Considering that, for example, Moscow has rather cold and long winters, reducing heating costs can significantly affect the family budget.

What to insulate first?

Residents of high-rise buildings located next to the private sector see problems with insulation very well. So, at the beginning of winter, roofs where the snow quickly melts clearly indicate high heat loss in the attic. This can also be detected using a thermal imager.

Considering that warm air rises upward, and cold - from below, special attention you need to pay attention to the ceiling and floor. Especially if the house has no basement and stands on the ground. When insulating a house externally, you should never forget about the base, so as not to create cold bridges between warm and cold surfaces.

Also, a lot of heat escapes through the windows. And if all the cracks around the openings are reliably foamed, you should carefully look at the batteries. Their length should be equal to the width of the window, and the window sill cannot overlap the radiator. After all, it is due to convection that a thermal curtain is created that does not let in the cold from the street.

Calculation of insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation should be selected based on the material of the walls, the thickness of these walls and minimum temperature during the coldest period. According to SNiP, only 5 cm of polystyrene foam or 13 cm of vermiculite is enough to insulate a house.

But this is with additional insulation window openings and reducing the ventilation of walls.

If you need to ensure minimal heat loss, it is better to use a calculator and calculate the individual thickness of the insulation. For example, for a wall made of one brick, you will need 10 cm of mineral wool.

This will allow you to get only 37.20 kW of ash loss during the heating season, instead of 166 kW without insulation.

The same 10 cm of mineral wool will be enough to insulate a house made of timber with a wall thickness of 150 mm, but the heat loss will be even lower - only 34 kW. But 35-centimeter walls made of aerated concrete can be insulated with only 5 cm of mineral wool to ensure 44 kW of ash loss.

Details about how to insulate private houses with your own hands

You need to insulate a private house wisely, because remodeling it will cost you more. You need to remember the basic rule - only insulate external walls. Insulation installed from the inside will not only reduce the area of ​​the rooms, but will also shift the dew point into the house.

Condensed moisture, which has nowhere to evaporate, will cause mold to form, harming not only the building, but also the health of those living in it.

The second rule for building a wall pie is to increase the vapor permeability of materials from inside to the outside. In other words, the frame must be maximally protected from moisture from the inside, and steam entering the wall and ceiling material must evaporate freely.

If vapor permeability is impaired and water microparticles are retained at some stage, this again leads to the development of fungi. Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling - warm and humid air rises and, falling on the more hygroscopic inner layer of insulation, can no longer quickly evaporate through the ceilings.

Materials best suited for insulation yourself

Of course, for self-insulation At home, materials that do not require additional equipment are most suitable. Therefore, polyurethane foam and ecowool applied by spraying can not even be considered - the cost of the equipment will not pay off when used for one home.

So, the easiest to use:

• slabs and rolls of mineral wool - simply laid on a horizontal surface, they need to be pressed tightly to a vertical surface, for example, with self-tapping screws with “umbrellas”;
• polystyrene foam – glued to flat surfaces using a special composition and additionally fixed with “umbrellas”.
• vermiculite, expanded clay, sawdust - simply poured in the required layer into a pre-made formwork.

But to work with these materials, you will need a drill or hammer drill to make holes in the walls, a screwdriver to screw the frame, a saw or grinder to cut off the bars. So don’t think that insulation on our own- it’s a very simple matter, even if your hand is a little full of home construction.

Advantages, disadvantages and installation technology of mineral insulation

Mineral wool is universal - it can be used to insulate both wooden and brick buildings. Thanks to its high vapor permeability, it will provide an optimal microclimate in the house without creating a greenhouse effect. But it is precisely for the ability to “breathe” that houses made of timber are so valued.

Basalt slabs are preferable in this regard. The insulation technology is extremely simple:

1. The frame is made of 5x5 cm bars. It is attached to wooden walls with self-tapping screws, and to concrete and brick walls - with dowels. The bars are leveled and leveled using wooden pads.



2. The pitch of the bars in the frame is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation mat (so that it lies tightly, but does not sag). If a large layer of insulation is required, cross bars are placed on top of the first layer of laid mineral wool and the second layer is laid. The roof is also insulated in the same way.



3. Brick houses can be insulated without constructing a frame. Basalt slabs are attached using special glue and fixed with “umbrellas”.



4. For wooden houses, a ventilated facade is used with a mandatory gap between the insulation and the siding. In this case, the mineral wool is covered with a windproof membrane, and puncture points and all joints are taped with butyl rubber tape. Siding guides are placed on top of the windbreak; they will also provide the required ventilation gap.



5. For a wet façade, basalt wool is reinforced with reinforcing mesh and plastered. It is worth remembering that mineral wool is a flexible material, so even a light blow to the facade can ruin the finish.

Disadvantages mineral insulation there too. In addition to the aforementioned love of mice, it is hygroscopic, so it requires good waterproofing. With improper ventilation, mineral wool begins to mold, and over time it erodes and cakes.

You need to remember safety precautions when working with glass wool - fibers that get on the skin cause severe itching. Basalt wool crumbles a lot. If it gets into the lungs, the dust is not removed, so the face must be protected with a respirator and goggles.

Pros, cons and techniques of foam insulation

The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its low vapor permeability, so it is not suitable for insulating wooden buildings. To avoid creating an effect plastic bottle when the house is always high humidity, it is advisable to pay special attention to ventilation.

The advantages of expanded polystyrene are obvious:

• easy to install - it is lightweight and does not require a frame or formwork;
• easy to cut - does not generate dust and is completely safe;
• does not rot or cake;
• inexpensive and durable.

PPS slabs are laid on a flat, prepared surface. There is no need to make a screed, but you will have to remove all protruding elements. The foam is attached with a special glue, and to improve adhesion, the walls are pre-treated with a primer.

The polystyrene foam is fixed with “umbrellas” with a slight indentation, and the caps are rubbed cement mortar to ensure tightness. The seams are sealed with polyurethane foam, the excess is cut off and also sealed.

The video shows in detail the entire foam insulation technology:

Bulk insulation materials and their features

Natural bulk materials are environmentally friendly and, in some cases, low in price. So, living in a forested area, there will be no problems with sawdust, but delivery of expanded clay can be expensive. Vermiculite, in terms of its qualities, is much better than expanded clay, since it is the only insulation material that can absorb heat. So it is best used as insulation inside a wall frame.

For an industrial scale this is unprofitable, but private construction allows the use of bulk insulation even in this way.

If you need to insulate the attic floor, the easiest way is to pour 15 cm of sawdust. They don’t even need to be covered with waterproofing films.

They also have disadvantages:

• Due to its properties to absorb and evaporate moisture, the material itself does an excellent job of removing excess steam, reducing humidity in the house. In addition, all bulk insulation materials are not suitable for mouse nests, which also speaks in their favor.
  They also have disadvantages:
• expanded clay is hygroscopic and heavy, so it is not suitable for large-scale insulation of buildings on light foundations;
• Vermiculite is also quite heavy, but does not absorb moisture.

Any bulk insulation performs best on horizontal surfaces, but for pitched roofs absolutely not suitable.

To build your own warm home, it is enough to have the minimum necessary construction skills. And everything will definitely work out!

The essence of the question of how to insulate the walls outside in a private house is not only familiarization with the technology of this process. Extremely important right choice insulating material. Therefore, before you start insulating your home, you need to carefully study technical specifications proposed insulation materials and rules for working with them.

To choose the right way to insulate the walls of a house outside, you need to consider the following: important points, such as the climatic conditions of the region at the location of the house, the material from which it is built, the expected finishing, the main purpose of the house. Country house, which is almost never used in the cold season, there is no need to insulate it as carefully as a house or cottage for permanent residence.

Among the many materials offered, choose exactly the insulation for the exterior walls of the house that will be most effective in a particular case. The main technical characteristics of the material must be selected in accordance with the above parameters. These are thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, vapor permeability, strength, biological and chemical stability and fire safety, as well as high density insulation.

The thickness of the selected material is determined according to the instructions and recommendations of GOST and SNiP. This takes into account the area of ​​the house, power heating system, size and number of window and doorways and some other criteria. When thinking about how to insulate the walls of a house outside, you should remember the following types wall insulation:

• extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
• foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose insulation;
• liquid polyurethane foam.

Almost all insulation for the external walls of a house, except for the last one, does not require special skills when working with them. The technology for their installation is quite simple and understandable to the average homeowner.

Preparing for wall insulation

To insulate a house from the outside with your own hands, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• plumbs and beacons;
• construction tape;
• building level;
• technical knife;
• electric drill or hammer drill;
• drills and drills of the required size;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• brushes and rollers.

Insulation of the outside of a wooden house or any other begins with preparing the surface. The outer walls of the house must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small debris. If the existing plaster or thermal insulation has become unusable, it is better to remove it by clearing the surface of the walls to the base. The prepared wall must be primed using a deep penetration compound.

A special mesh will help to evenly lay the insulation for the walls outside. To install it, a thick thread is stretched along the upper edge of the wall. Plumb lines are hung from it. Horizontal threads are stretched between them, parallel to the top thread. This mesh will help to evenly arrange the frame and lay the insulation.

Key points of insulation work

First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier material. Then insulation, on top of which a windproof film is laid. This film helps remove moisture from the wooden wall and prevents its penetration from the outside. The last stage is finishing. It could be decorative plaster, siding or other finishing material.

The insulating coating of the external walls of the house is a multi-layer structure. Its main components located on the surface of the walls are:

• plaster;
• fixing primer;
• adhesive composition with high adhesive properties;
• the insulation itself;
• reinforcing putty or special glue;
• polymer or mineral decorative plaster;
• acrylic paint.

In addition to the adhesive composition, the following are used to attach the insulation:

• plastic dowels;
• metal cores with plastic insulated heads.

Insulation in this way provides reliable protection from cold, moisture, steam. At the same time total weight The structure is relatively small. Possibilities finishing practically unlimited. The main thing is that the insulated wall is absolutely flat and can withstand a load of about 35 kg per 1 sq. m. When installing such insulation, the main point is to protect the inner layers from moisture.

Another method of insulation is a hinged ventilated facade. In this case, an air cushion (gap) of at least 6 cm thick must be left between the insulation and the wall of the house. Facing material in this case, it is mounted on a base of supporting profiles and brackets. This method does not require preliminary leveling of the walls.

Penoplex is a very easy-to-use, high-quality insulating material. To insulate external walls, penoplex grade “31” or “35” is usually used. The prepared walls are covered with fresh plaster mixture, onto which foam sheets are glued. They need to be aligned using the mesh described above and lightly pressed to improve adhesion.

An additional protective layer of plaster is applied over the insulation. The next layer is a mesh made of alkali-resistant fiberglass. When the top layer of plaster has dried, the walls are primed. Now you can start finishing work.

It is not difficult to insulate the outside of a house with penoplex with your own hands; video material found on the Internet will help you see with your own eyes all the intricacies of this process.

Insulation with sandwich panels

Some homeowners still doubt whether it is possible to insulate the outside of the house using so-called “sandwich panels”. However, this material is becoming increasingly popular. This is a three-layer building structure in which the insulation is located between two sheets of cladding. A house covered with sandwich panels does not require additional finishing. The panels themselves are resistant to corrosion, weathering and mechanical damage. Installation of this material is facilitated by its low specific gravity.

To install wall sandwich panels you will need:

• sealants;
• flashings;
• corners;
• fastening material.

Sandwich panels are attached to the wall of the house using a frame made of wood or reinforced concrete. The joining of the panels to each other is ensured by a tongue-and-groove connection. Seams and joints are additionally sealed with special mastic, tape, gaskets or polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam is poured into the end seams or mineral wool is laid. There are special strips on top. Around window and door openings, at corners and joints with the basement, corner panels are placed or corner profiles are used.

Insulation under siding

Siding is one of the most popular and inexpensive modern materials for finishing a private house. To carry out this finishing correctly, you must first select insulation for the outside walls of the house under the siding. This is also necessary in order to increase the service life of the building and its external decoration. The main criteria when choosing an insulation material are the design of the house and the cost of the insulation. Most often the following is installed under the siding:

• fiberglass;
• penoplex;
• polyester foam;
• mineral wool.

Many homeowners prefer to insulate the outside of the house with mineral wool under the siding. This is a reliable, durable material with a low specific gravity. Mineral wool has such valuable characteristics as:

• environmental friendliness;
• thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• noiseproofing.

Installing mineral wool, subject to certain rules, will not be difficult.

Installation of insulation under siding can be carried out in a budget way or using inter-frame insulation. Both options require preliminary preparation.

First, the outer surface of the walls is prepared. They need to be cleaned of old coatings, dust and debris. Wooden walls need to be treated with an antiseptic or machine oil treatment. After this, the wood should dry. Therefore, it is better to do the work in warm, dry weather.

The treated, dried walls are covered with an overlap of waterproofing (from 10 to 15 cm). It is secured with a construction stapler. Tape is applied at the connection points.

Next, the sheathing is mounted on the walls. This can be a ready-made metal structure or a homemade one made from wooden slats or bars. The distance between the slats is determined by the width of the insulation. It must be laid tightly without any voids. The sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the intended installation of insulation.

Soft insulation is cut and placed between the sheathing elements. Special “fungi” are used to secure it. Solid tile insulation begins to be laid from the bottom up. The bottom slabs are laid 10 cm above the top edge of the plinth. This insulation is attached using assembly adhesive.

A windproofing coating is laid on top of the insulation. It is attached with a stapler to the sheathing (a step of at least 50 cm) with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The connecting seams are taped.

Next, another sheathing is installed, onto which the siding is attached. The elements of the upper sheathing are attached with a screwdriver to the lower structure perpendicularly. This creates a ventilated gap of 0.2 to 3 cm, depending on the thickness of the beams. The second sheathing is mounted from elements of a smaller cross-section. Its main purpose is to press the wind insulation against the insulation, and all structural elements against the wall surface. To protect against rodents, a fine-mesh metal mesh is placed over the foam-type insulation.

Now you can attach the siding - vinyl or metal. Vinyl panels are cheap but less durable. They require careful care. The high price of metal panels is fully justified by their strength, durability and reliability.

Solving the question of how to insulate wooden house from the outside with your own hands, it begins with the construction of a primitive sheathing of wooden planks. They are installed vertically, the step between them is equal to the width of the insulation. The insulation layers are attached to the frame slats using special plastic dowels.

Insulating a private house from the outside is a simple process. The main thing is to choose the right insulation and other materials, prepare everything you need in advance and strictly follow the instructions during work. A reliably insulated house acquires additional strength.