If once a violet appeared on your windowsill, then soon you will want to have several more plants, and maybe create a whole collection. These miniature delicate flowers can decorate any room and create comfort in it, and will undoubtedly attract attention and delight guests and owners. Buying violets every time is expensive, so you can breed them yourself. Most varieties are easy to propagate, so you can get a few more specimens yourself.
Leaf propagation
There are several ways to propagate violets, and one of them is propagation by leaf blades. This is the most accessible and cost-effective method. You don't have to buy a whole plant, but planting material You can take it from your flower or from friends. To propagate violets this way you will have to work hard.
Selection of planting material
Not all leaf blades of violets are suitable for propagation. You need to choose leaves growing in the middle row, that is, approximately in the middle of the stem. The lower leaves are not suitable, since they are already old and may not germinate, and the upper ones are still too weak, and besides, when they are separated, there is a possibility of damaging the growing point. The leaf should be healthy, elastic and with good turgor.
Preparation of planting material
The cut on the leaf blade should be at an angle. The cut area must be sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal; you can use cinnamon. The leaf must be placed in a weak solution of manganese. In this way, planting material is disinfected.
Rooting a leaf in water
After the preparatory measures, the leaf with the petiole is placed in water. The immersed part of the petiole should not exceed a length of 1 centimeter; after about a month, the cuttings will take root; when they reach a size of 2–3 cm, they are transplanted into the ground.
The water in the glass is not changed for a month, and to prevent it from blooming, it is better to use distilled water with the addition of activated carbon. If the cuttings still begin to rot, then they need to be removed from the water, cut to the place where there is no rot yet, sprinkle the cut with activated carbon, dry it and place it in fresh water.
Rooting in the ground
You can plant the leaves directly into the ground. For this, ordinary loose soil or specially purchased black soil containing fertilizers is suitable. For planting, it is better to take small cups. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of each. Small pebbles, expanded clay, gravel or small pieces of brick can be used as materials for drainage. After this, the cuttings are stuck into the ground and watered generously with settled water. room temperature and put away under the greenhouse.
The temperature for rooting violet cuttings is maintained at 27 degrees Celsius. This method is not entirely convenient, because it is impossible to control the formation of roots, and if the petiole begins to rot, it will not be noticeable immediately. But rooting in the soil significantly reduces germination time violet leaf, and the germination rate is very high.
Propagating violets using the first method is a more labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but many gardeners claim that this type of propagation brings the best results.
Breeding from peduncles and stepsons
These methods are suitable for chimeric varieties, since when propagated by leaf blades, the children do not take on the color of the parent plant.
Breeding by stepson
The stepsons formed in the axils of the violets are carefully separated. Their length must be at least 4 cm. Then they are rooted in soil or water according to the same pattern as when propagated by leaves. When the young plants grow a little, they can be planted in small flower pots. Transplantation is done only by transshipment method.
To do this, the earthen ball is placed together with the plant in new pot. After some time you can expect the first flowering. If the violets are chimeric, then the first time they bloom is not as beautiful as in subsequent seasons, so do not be upset if the flowers are not so beautiful and lush.
Propagation by peduncles
Chimera violets are also usually propagated in this way. On a violet, select a peduncle that has blossomed or has just faded and cut it off with a sharp tool. Rooting of the peduncle is done in a substrate consisting of moss or perlite. The substrate is constantly kept moist. A greenhouse is built over the container. A sure sign that rooting has occurred will be the appearance of a new rosette. And when it grows a little, you can transplant the plant into a flower pot.
Seed propagation
This is the most complex and labor-intensive process of growing violets, which is used at home. It is usually used by experienced flower growers involved in the selection of violets, since propagation using seeds makes it possible to develop a new variety.
First, parental violets are selected that will be used for breeding. They must be healthy, well developed and strong. For crossing, pollen is carefully collected and the pistils are pollinated with it. This should be done when wet drops appear on the pistils. To increase the likelihood of success, it is better to pollinate several flowers on a peduncle at once.
Approximately 30 days after pollination, seed pods will appear. They are not harvested immediately, but wait about another four months for them to ripen. After they become dry and hard, they are collected and placed in a warm place with dry air for several days. Then the seeds can be sown. To do this, a box or other large container is filled with perlite, the seeds are mixed with sand for uniform sowing and sown in the ground on the surface.
There is no need to sprinkle or deepen them, but after sowing they need to be sprinkled with water. The container is placed under a glass greenhouse and ventilated daily and the condensation is removed. As additional lighting. After the seedlings grow to 0.5 cm, they can be planted in separate pots and grown as.
Reproduction of Uzambara violet: cuttings, leaves, seeds and peduncle Propagation of violets by leaf at home
Violet is known to many gardeners as one of the most beautiful and charming indoor plants. Its delicate flowers can have different colors, and velvety leaves form compact bush. If you want to grow a plant yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with the process of its propagation.
Most often used by flower growers. This is a simple process that anyone can do. What methods and features of propagation of violets by leaves exist today will be discussed in detail below.
Process Features
Half-mini or other varieties follow the same pattern. This is the easiest way to propagate this type of flower at home.
It is best to carry out such actions in summer or spring. At this time, the plant receives a sufficient amount of light and heat. The plant should not bloom during this period. Some species produce buds almost all year round. Most often, the flowering process ends in March. It is at this time, while the plant is resting, that you need to have time to take material for seedlings.
You can also grow violets in autumn and winter, but in this case you will have to solve the issue of maintaining the right conditions for the full development of seedlings. Experienced flower growers are not afraid of this. Even in winter you can grow the most rare species violets at home.
Sheet selection
Start with choice the right material for seedlings. They should not be weak or sick. Otherwise, the offspring of such leaves will be just as lethargic.
It is not recommended to cut leaves from the lower tier of the bush to breed violets. Here they are often weak and old. It is these leaves that are most susceptible to attacks by pests, fungi and harmful microorganisms. It is recommended to cut the material for seedlings from the tier above the lower leaves. It is well formed and has pronounced turgor.
If the leaf was transported along the street before planting (from a store or from friends), it may become lethargic. To give him back vitality, you should prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate with water. The liquid should be slightly warmer than room temperature. After two hours in the solution, the leaf is disinfected and regains its strength.
Sheet cut
Rooting violet leaves requires proper preparation material. To do this, it is not enough to simply pick a leaf. This may lead to adverse consequences. The cutting must be cut correctly.
A sharp blade or a well-sharpened knife is suitable for this. Cutting surfaces must be treated with an alcohol solution. The selected sheet must be placed on a hard surface. Next, with one firm movement, the cutting is separated from the plant. The cut must be oblique. It is performed at an angle of 45º. The stem should be from 3 to 5 mm long (depending on the seedling container).
The leaf must be left to dry. It is recommended to sprinkle the cut with activated carbon. Experienced flower growers They say that if you don’t have an antiseptic on hand to treat the knife, it’s better to just break off the sheet. If it gets infected, the consequences will be irreversible.
Transfer to water
There are two ways to breed violets. The leaf can be planted in water or soil. To understand which method is preferable, you should consider them in detail.
It's easy to do. You need to prepare boiled or settled water. The sooner you place the cutting in water, the faster the leaf will begin to produce roots. It is best to use plastic transparent cups as containers for planting. They are thoroughly washed and sterilized.
The stalk is immersed in water to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The tip should not rest against the bottom of the glass. Fixation is performed using a lid. Holes are made in the paper and cuttings are inserted into them. Activated carbon (one tablet) should be placed in water. As the liquid evaporates, it should be added to the glass.
Appearance of roots
The presented method can take quite a long time. It depends on the plant variety. Usually the first roots appear on the cuttings after 2-4 weeks. Before this, you need to control the water level in the glass.
If traces of rot become noticeable on the cuttings, the leaf should be removed from the water. It is dried and carefully trimmed with a sharp blade. The new cut must be well treated with activated carbon. This will help prevent rot from occurring again. After this, the leaf is again placed in water.
As soon as strong roots become noticeable, the plant can be transplanted into the ground. The pot should have holes in the bottom. One third of it should be filled with fine drainage. Soil is poured on top.
Transplantation into the ground
Occurs at shallow depths. If you plant the cutting too deeply, it will be difficult for the shoots to break through the soil layer. At the same time, the plant weakens. In some cases, sockets may not appear at all. Therefore, the new roots that the violet has sprouted should be close to the surface.
The soil around the leaf needs to be compacted. Then the plant is watered abundantly. The container with the violet is covered with polyethylene. This will help maintain the required level of humidity inside. The plant is placed in a warm, bright place (but not in direct sunlight).
The bag should remain on the pot until new shoots appear on the leaf. This indicates that the process was successful. The shoots can be transplanted into pots intended for them.
Soil preparation
Experienced flower growers claim that when planting a plant directly into the ground, the rooting time of the violet leaf is significantly reduced. At the same time, more new shoots appear, and the likelihood of rotting on the cuttings is significantly reduced.
To transplant into the soil, you need to purchase a special mixture. This soil includes polystyrene foam, sphagnum moss, vermiculite and perlite. You can also prepare the soil for replanting yourself. Vermiculite and perlite are mixed in equal proportions. The first component is responsible for providing oxygen. Vermiculite loosens the soil and absorbs excess moisture.
Next, add the resulting mixture and sphagnum to the soil. This component has an antibacterial effect. You can add peat. Such components make it possible to provide plant roots with the right conditions for full growth.
Landing in the ground
Rooting of a violet leaf in the ground occurs faster. However, it is required to make correct pruning and transplantation of material. The selected leaf is broken off from the plant. It is cut diagonally with a sharp blade. If transplanted miniature varieties, the stalk is shortened more. You can leave its length only 1-1.5 cm.
The cut is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The cutting dries out in half an hour. At this time, drainage holes need to be made in the plastic cup. It is filled with warm, moist soil. A cutting is planted in it. Mini-violets are deepened only 5 mm. For ordinary varieties, the cuttings can be buried in the soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. The soil around the leaf is well compacted. Watering the plant is not recommended.
The glass must be covered with polyethylene. The seedling is ventilated periodically. This helps prevent mold from growing on the soil. After transplantation, the leaf withers a little. This is considered the norm. When the plant has roots, it will become full of vigor again. Watering is done once a week. You cannot flood the plant or feed it with fertilizers. In this case, the violet will develop the root system faster. Grow the plant in a warm, well-lit place. It is protected from direct sunlight and drafts.
Reproduction by leaf fragment
Rooting a violet with a leaf fragment rarely used. This approach can be a way out if it starts to rot. The stem is broken off near the base. With a sharp knife the sheet is cut into several fragments. The blade must be very sharp. Each fragment must have at least one vein.
This method is suitable for rare cases. In some cases, only a third of the upper part of the sheet is taken for such purposes. The cut is made horizontally. The fragment is left for several minutes. During this time, the edge will be covered with a film. Next, the cut site is treated with activated carbon.
The plate is placed in the ground. The cut should fit snugly to the ground. The pot is also covered with polyethylene. When the plant takes root, it produces many shoots. They appear from every vein of the leaf.
Having considered how it happens rooting violet leaf, as well as the basic techniques for carrying out this process, every gardener will be able to independently grow this wonderful plant at home.
Amazingly beautiful delicate violet inflorescences are a real decoration alpine slides, flower beds, balconies and loggias. But there is a variety of these plants that are grown at home. And their scientific name is “Saintpaulia”.
Despite the fact that indoor violets are unpretentious plants, for some reason they do not take root with some novice gardeners. There may be several reasons for this and all of them, as a rule, are associated with violations of the requirements for caring for Saintpaulia.
Variety of violets
The home violet is a relative of the garden violet. Therefore, their “claims” are practically the same. But you should still make an estimate on the growing conditions, because artificially created ones cannot completely reproduce the natural habitat for these flowers.
Therefore, in apartments you can see to a greater extent hybrid varieties violets that are grown to adapt to the home climate. The diversity of species includes varieties that differ not only in size and color (plain or vibrant with a wide range of colors), but also in different shapes of petals and inflorescences.
Along with traditionally developing bushes, they are found among domestic violets and hanging varieties. But on branched stems that smoothly “flow” down, there are much fewer inflorescences.
Habitat
When you are planning to have an indoor violet, strive to create conditions for it that are close to natural. First of all, the comfort of Saintpaulia depends on its habitat, or rather, the soil in which it will grow.
The soil for violets should be sufficiently nutritious and have a loose structure. Great importance here they give a proportional ratio of the components included in the substrate. Take leaf soil (chernozem) as a basis - it should consist of 5 parts. 3 parts of the substrate is peat and 1 part is sand. Additional components include sphagnum moss and charcoal.
Drainage also plays a big role here, so don’t forget to put it on the bottom. flower pot expanded clay balls or river pebbles. This will prevent water from stagnating in the soil. Otherwise, excess liquid will cause root rot.
When choosing a flower pot, you should take into account the characteristics of the plant itself. Violet roots do not grow deep, but “spread” to the sides, located in the top layer of soil. So you should choose a container that is not deep, but rather spacious in width. The optimal dimensions for growing domestic violets are considered to be the following flower pot sizes: depth within 6 – 9 cm, width – at least 4 cm.
By calling the violet capricious, flower growers thus justify their ignorance of the rules for caring for indoor plants or their inattention to pets. If you strictly follow the regimes for growing flowers on window sills, then Saintpaulia will bestow you with colorful splendor. And violets can bloom throughout the year.
Having studied the rules for caring for indoor plants, you will understand that even the lazy can cope with the “character” of violets.
- Temperature conditions. Violets do not require hot temperatures. Therefore, the room should maintain constant parameters ranging from 20 to 24C in summer and 18 to 20C in winter. A lack of oxygen can destroy the plant. Therefore, the room should be ventilated regularly. And during this period the violet will have to be taken to another room.
- Illumination. Violet loves to “bathe” in the sun’s rays. But direct exposure of the plant to light should still be avoided to prevent burns. Blinds on the windows will provide good dispersion of direct rays of the sun. For abundant flowering V winter time it will be necessary to artificially extend daylight hours (the total duration of illumination should be at least 12 hours).
- Irrigation mode. Violet loves to “drink”, but you cannot over-moisten the soil - regulate the watering. Its frequency should not exceed 2 times a week at any time of the year. But the indicator for the next watering should be the degree of moisture of the soil substrate. The best option would be to irrigate through a tray - lay expanded clay or peat on it.
- Air humidity. Do not allow dry air in the room where the violet grows. But there should not be excessive moisture, so that it does not “fall” like dew on the plants. In this situation, watering the flowers will have to be reduced. Try not to refresh the violet by spraying (especially during the flowering period) - it will start to hurt.
- Feeding. You only need to “feed” Saintpaulia with fertilizers designed specifically for violets. The feeding schedule depends on the time of year: in autumn and spring they apply mineral fertilizers 1 time per month; in winter - organic once per season; in summer they look at the condition of the flower.
As the violet grows, it is transplanted into larger containers. The best period For this, spring is considered (March or April). At the same time, flowers are propagated. Saintpaulia can be propagated in several ways.
- Stepsonning. In an adult plant, carefully cut off with a scalpel the stepsons on which at least 3 leaves have formed. The stepson can be planted directly in the soil, the composition of which was described above. Either first in, and when the stepson takes root, transplant into the ground.
- Subsidiary sockets. The violet develops in inflorescences. And the more of them in one pot, the more difficult for a plant develop. When daughter rosettes form, they should be cut off from the mother plant and planted in separate pots.
- Cuttings. Vegetative propagation violets are the most popular, and the cutting method is the simplest. But only the leaves located in the second row of the plant should be cut off. You can propagate by cuttings in 2 ways: by planting directly in an earthen substrate or by first rooting the leaf in an activated carbon solution.
Features of reproduction
The cut areas must be sprinkled with activated carbon powder (crush the tablet). This will prevent the violet from being damaged by microbes.
To ensure faster rooting of planting material, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions. Cover the container with a plastic bag or piece of glass and leave it like this for several days. But do not forget to ventilate daily so that the young shoots do not rot.
Video: secrets of caring for capricious violets
There are 4 types of growing violets: leaf, peduncle, stepson and cuttings. Each of them is good in its own way, but we offer the simplest, but somewhat time-consuming method of propagating violets - with leaves.
When creating certain home conditions, violets can be propagated all year round. If there is not enough heat and light for this, then it is better to postpone the reproduction process to the spring-summer period.
It is not recommended to take planting material for rooting from the bottom row of the rosette, since the leaves there are old, they may not produce babies, and the leaf will disappear. It is preferable to choose 2-3 mature and mature leaves closer to the topmost tier of the rosette. It is very important that there are no damages, scratches, bends on it, and that it itself is green and elastic.
A leaf is cut from the mother plant at an angle of 45 degrees, leaving a small stump, which is then sprinkled with activated carbon. The length of the stem of the cut leaf should not be more than 4 cm, a smaller size is allowed. Sprinkle the cut with coal and give a little time for the cut to dry.
If the period of time between immersion in water and cutting is long, for example, the leaf was taken at an exhibition or from friends, at home before immersion in water you need to make a fresh cut again and allow it to dry for about 2-3 minutes. Only then can the violet cuttings be placed in water or rooted directly in the ground.
Rooting violet leaves in water.
At this stage, you need to pour boiled water at room temperature into a clean glass, and add an activated carbon tablet for disinfection. After drying, the leaf is placed in a container of water. The edge of the cutting should be immersed in water to a depth of no more than 1 cm.
Periodically, as it decreases, boiled water is added to the glass. Depending on conditions, violet leaf may produce roots within 1-2 weeks after being immersed in water. If the stem begins to rot, it is necessary to make a new cut and begin the rooting procedure again.
You can use small bottles where the leaf will be securely fixed at the neck and will not fall into the water.
Planting a leaf with roots in the ground.
When roots approximately 1-1.5 cm long appear on the leaf, it can be planted in soil selected specifically for violets with an acidity pH of 5.5-6.5. Several holes are made in a plastic cup to allow excess moisture to escape, drainage or foam is poured onto the bottom and filled evenly with soil. For a leaf with roots, make a depression in the moist soil, preferably at the edge, and plant it.
We put it in a warm place, but not sunny place, water it periodically, create greenhouse conditions by covering it with a plastic bag. A cup with drainage holes can be placed in another cup of the same type, but without holes. Thus, the pot will be double - convenient for watering from below.
Depending on the conditions of detention, in one and a half to two months the children will grow up. If after the expiration of the term the children do not appear, it means the stem has rotted. To prevent this from happening, be very careful with watering.
You can root a violet leaf directly in the ground.
From my experience I know that it is more convenient to plant planting material directly into the ground, there is less loss and time. To propagate in soil, place a leaf cutting of a violet without roots, cut side down, at an angle of 45 degrees or almost horizontally, placing the edge of the leaf on the side of the cup, lightly pressing the cutting with your finger and covering it with soil. The shallower the depth of planting of the cuttings, the faster the leaf will produce new rosettes.
Leaves planted without roots sometimes lose turgor, but there is no need to worry. As soon as roots appear, turgor will be restored. After some time, babies emerge from the ground.
If violet cuttings are planted in the summer, then they do not need to be covered, but if the apartment is cool, then it is better to cover the cuttings or young rosettes with a transparent bag. Be careful with watering so that the petiole does not rot; keep in a warm and bright place, but not in the sun, which can cause burns.
Separating and planting rosettes in separate pots.
You can separate the babies after the leaves are sufficiently grown and deep green in color. Transplant into a small pot or into separate cups. At the bottom you need to put drainage in the form of expanded clay or foam. Everything is covered with soil, a depression of about 1 cm is made and a rosette of violets is planted.
Children should receive excellent lighting, warmth, and moderate watering. When the rosettes grow, it will be possible to “transfer” them to a pot, which should correspond in size to the plant. By observing these simple requirements to propagate violets with leaves, you will receive beautiful plant, which will delight you with beautiful and long flowering.
There is a method of cuttings, when the violet leaf is propagated directly in a transparent plastic bag.
Saintpaulists share their experience on how to propagate violets, when a rooting substrate is poured into a small bag, a cut of the cutting is inserted into the soil, the bag is tightly closed and simply hung on a rack. At the same time, make sure that the leaf blade does not rot from excess moisture, so it is often ventilated.
From cutting to violet blossom...
Having brought home a leaf of some unique variety, we always want to quickly see the result of its flowering, but, alas... In the best case, a propagated violet leaf gives birth to children within a period of one month, sometimes you need to wait longer.
Approximate time from the moment the leaf separates from an adult violet:
- after 3 weeks roots appear,
- in 5-6 weeks - babies,
- after 12 weeks - placement of babies from the mother’s sheet,
- after 5 months - transplant into an “adult” pot,
- after 6-9 months the violet blooms.
What do these deadlines depend on?! Some factors should be taken into account when propagating and growing violets at home..
First of all, it depends on the conditions of keeping the rooted leaf (lighting, presence of a greenhouse, air temperature); from the nutrition of the mother plant (just do not need to feed young violet rosettes during cultivation).
In the spring, the plant will produce babies faster than in the fall. Also depends on varietal characteristics violets There are varieties that germinate quickly, and some are slow-witted with long petioles, which have taken root and live happily for themselves, but are in no hurry to give birth to children.
If you plant leaf cuttings in October-November, you get new rosettes in February, replant them, and in the summer, with proper home maintenance, these violets are in full bloom. It is not advisable to propagate violets during flowering; it is better to wait until the indoor plant fades.
The first indoor Saintpaulias or Uzambara violets were grown from the seeds of a wild plant back in 1892. In modern floriculture, there are about 16,000 varieties of this charming flower. It turned out that propagation of violets by leaves leads to success much more often, since it is extremely difficult to preserve tiny seedlings obtained from seeds and provide them with suitable conditions for existence.
Every owner of this indoor plant sooner or later there is a desire to propagate the beautiful Saintpaulia. If you are going to grow a daughter plant, then there is no problem with choosing a leaf - it is not difficult to select the most suitable specimen.
How to select and cut a leaf for propagation
To grow a full-fledged new plant, the parent flower must be mature, blooming and completely healthy. But even for Saintpaulia, which meets all these requirements, not every leaf is suitable for propagation.
Sheet selection criteria:
- the leaf should not have any signs of disease or external damage: stains from burns, dents or scratches - such a leaf, deprived of nutrition from the mother plant, will inevitably rot;
- it should not be in the lower tier - in aged leaves the metabolism slows down, and the formation of a new rosette will have to wait too long;
- It is not worth taking leaves from the center of the plant for two reasons - you can damage the center of growth of the violet, besides, young, not fully formed leaves do not have the necessary strength to form rosettes, they do not have enough nutrients for this;
- for the propagation of variegated violets, leaf blades are chosen whose variegation is least pronounced; the more variegation there is on a leaf, the more likely it is that it will rot; the non-chlorophyll part reduces the strength of the leaf and its ability to form rosettes.
Consequently, the most suitable can be considered leaf blades located in the second or third tier, considering the rosettes at the bottom. It is best if the leaf is taken directly under the peduncle. Such leaves have the maximum supply of nutrients.
But choosing the right sheet is only half the battle. You need to cut it correctly. For this purpose, choose a sharp knife or blade. The cutting surface must be disinfected. The easiest way is to wipe it with alcohol.
To achieve maximum area To form roots, the cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees. For the same purpose, the cuttings are sometimes cut across. It happens that the propagation leaf is simply pinched off from the flower rosette. In this case, the cut still needs to be properly formed, done with a disinfected knife on a flat surface. The length of the petiole is from 3 to 5 cm. For miniature and semi-miniature specimens, its length should be less - no more than 1.5 cm.
The cut needs to be washed warm water, be sure to dry it. It is very good to sprinkle it with crushed activated carbon, which has bactericidal properties.
Saintpaulia lovers often exchange leaf blades different varieties. If the sent material is in good condition, it should be treated in the same way as with a freshly plucked sheet. If its elasticity is lost, you can try to revive the leaf, at the same time disinfecting it. To do this, soak the leaf by immersing it in a weak, warm solution of potassium permanganate for 2 hours, and then dry it well.
There are two methods for propagating violets by leaf: water and ground. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
- If the rooting of the cuttings takes place in water, the process is easier to control - the roots that appear will be clearly visible. But in this case there is always a danger of rotting of the end of the cutting in the water.
- When planting a leaf blade in the ground, you need to set up a mini greenhouse so that it does not dry out. But the result is almost 100% guaranteed, and the time for the formation of small rosettes is also reduced.
Let's look at each method in more detail.
Rooting a violet leaf in water
Reproduction instructions are as follows.
- Each leaf is given a separate habitat. Small glass vials that do not have a wide neck are most suitable. It is highly desirable that the glass be dark.
- Water, preferably distilled or filtered, is poured into the container so that the cutting is lowered into it no deeper than 1 cm. It should not touch the bottom. It is very good to put an activated carbon tablet into the water. There will be less danger of the cuttings rotting.
- There is no need to change the water, but it is imperative to maintain a constant level. To do this, it is poured.
- The light should only be diffused, direct Sun rays dry the plant.
- The rotten cutting is cut back to healthy tissue, just as before rooting, not forgetting to dry it and sprinkle the cut with crushed coal, and place it in a container, replacing the water.
- The plant is planted in the ground when the roots have reached a length of about 1.5-2 cm. This usually happens after 1.5-2 months.
In the ground, the rooting process is carried out differently.
How to root a leaf in soil mixture
- The rooting container does not have to be large, just enough plastic cup volume 50 ml.
- The bottom of the cup must be perforated in several places to drain water.
- Expanded clay or foam drainage should occupy about 1/3 of the volume.
- The rest of the space is filled with loose, light soil mixed with perlite.
- Make a small depression in the center, into which a mixture of soil and perlite is poured for better aeration of the roots.
- The cutting depth is 1.5 cm. The ground needs to be slightly compressed.
- The leaf is not planted vertically, but with an inclination of about 35 degrees. If necessary, make supports from matches to prevent the sheet from falling.
- Keep in diffused light, placing it in a mini greenhouse. If there is none, cover the cup with the plant with a plastic bag to create optimal humidity. The package can be replaced glass jar suitable size. Condensation that may form is harmful to the plant, so all coverings should be removed briefly for ventilation.
- Watering is carried out without allowing the soil to dry out.
To water Saintpaulias, you need to use water at a temperature not lower than room temperature, cold water destructive for plants.
- Plant in a pot of larger diameter when the size of the leaves of the daughter rosette is about 3 cm.
It happens that the cutting, despite the efforts made, rots completely. There is no need to despair, propagation of violets can be carried out only with a leaf plate and even part of it, the main thing is that at least one vein is intact. Trim the leaf to healthy tissue. Allow to form on the cut protective film. This takes about a quarter of an hour. Dip the cuts into crushed coal.
Press the cut part to the ground until they are in full contact, but do not immerse it in the ground. If necessary, make supports for the sheet to fix it in the desired position. The best results are obtained when using the top third of the sheet. With this method of reproduction, each vein forms a daughter rosette, so they total more.
When using part of a Saintpaulia leaf blade for propagation, the best result is obtained by planting it not in the ground, but in moistened sphagnum moss.
The risk of plate rotting in this case is much less, due to the bactericidal properties of this material.
For proper propagation and rooting of Saintpaulia, well-selected soil is very important. In its homeland, violet grows on soils with a sufficient content of humus, loose, moisture-absorbing and well aerated. Long-term hybridization has greatly changed appearance plants, but not his habits. The soil for indoor Usambara violets should not differ much from that in which wild species grow.
Composition of soil for violets and its preparation
The basis of the soil should be leaf soil, turf soil with the addition of high-moor peat and sand. Add sphagnum moss, coniferous soil, and charcoal to the mixture. Looseness is provided by coconut fiber, vermicult, and perlite. The proportions of the components strongly depend not only on the age of the plant, but also on its variety and even the method of watering. An important indicator is soil acidity. Its pH should be within 6.4 – 6.9. Purchased mixtures do not always meet the necessary requirements, so it is better to make the soil yourself.
This can be done as follows.
- We mix purchased universal soil, peat, perlite (vermicult or sphagnum moss), charcoal in the proportions respectively: 1: 2: 1: 0.5.
- The basis of this mixture is nutrient soil– it will require 6 parts. We take 1 part each of charcoal, moss and perlite.
- You can prepare a mixture of 4 parts of peat-based soil, 1 part of moss and 0.5 parts of coconut fiber and vermicult (replacement is perlite). If you add a little charcoal– the mixture will only get better.
- Another option: 2 parts each of cut moss and peat, 1 part each of leaf, coniferous and garden soil, 1 part sand.
It must be remembered that when preparing a mixture for young plants and rooted cuttings, the emphasis should be on loosening components that improve aeration and prevent rotting of cuttings and young roots.
But even in ideal soil, the flower must be planted correctly, otherwise it may die.
Correct planting technology
This flower does not like a lot of space for roots, so a voluminous pot is an unnecessary luxury, especially for young plants. It doesn't have to be deep either, because root system in these plants it is superficial.
For babies that have just grown up and are ready for transplanting, they usually take a pot with a height and a diameter of no more than 5 cm. Check if it has a drainage hole into which excess water will drain. If you don’t have it, be sure to do it. Place foam or expanded clay drainage at the bottom of the pot, about 1 tbsp. spoon. The prepared soil is filled in, a hole is made, into which a small rosette is planted. The plant should not be buried, but the roots should be completely covered with soil. Caring for an indoor violet that has recently been transplanted has its own characteristics. At first, it is better to cover the planted violet with a bag, not forgetting to ventilate. You need to gradually accustom her to the open air. Watering is carried out with warm water as needed. Avoid exposing the plant to bright sunlight.
If the root system is poorly developed, you will have to plant the babies for growing in a substrate of soil and perlite and place them in a greenhouse for a couple of weeks. It will be easier to separate the rosettes if you water the soil well beforehand, remove the entire plant with a lump of soil from the pot at once and separate the rosettes, gradually clearing the roots from the soil.
You can separate the rosettes in stages, starting with the strongest, allowing the rest to grow next to the rooted cuttings.
Get an Uzambara violet! In suitable conditions, it will decorate a room with its blooms almost all year round. You will not be disappointed in this flower, and you will definitely want to propagate it.