There are a huge number of options for assembling and installing veranda extensions to a country house. But more economical and simple option will be the assembly of the frame structure. This extension will look advantageous next to a frame wooden house. What building materials and tools will be needed for self-installation and extensions and how this is installed we will describe below in our article.
The definition itself shows that the basis of the entire structure is a load-bearing structure made of edged wood. In addition to the main frame, other parts of the frame building are also made from timber - these are the lower and corner posts.
Standard racks and lintels are made from ordinary boards.
With the help of boards, both the future and the veranda are indicated.
In this case, the thickness of the racks is equal to the thickness, and the width of the step between the wooden racks is determined based on the width of the insulating layer.
For example, if private house is located in the northern region, then the thickness of the insulating layer should be at least 15 cm. Based on this, we can conclude that the width of the lumber will be 150 mm x 100 mm or 150 mm. The step size is maintained within 60 cm, because the width of the insulation board will be exactly 60 cm.
After assembling and installing the frame structure, an insulating layer is laid. Before this procedure, it is necessary to carry out and. After completion of the insulation work, rough cladding of the entire structure is carried out using DSP sheets.
The most common material for rough cladding of a veranda is a panel. This panel has greater resistance to moisture and mechanical stress than other materials. All OSB panels have fairly high strength indicators. Below we will look at what other materials are used as cladding for frame house and outbuildings.
Construction of a veranda for a wooden house
Modern frame ones provide a certain number of options for installing and installing the veranda.
In the West, a variety of methods and options are used that make it possible to build not only extensions, but also small ones one-story houses. A novice specialist can easily choose a design option for his veranda: it can be frame-panel, or frame-frame construction.
The type of panel construction provides quick assembly existing panels that have window and door openings. The specifics of these works are more reminiscent of assembly children's construction set, because all elements and parts are assembled and fastened together. These panels are produced according to individual orders, since their size must strictly match the dimensions of the poured material. But if you need to make a more technologically complicated extension, then you need to use frame-frame construction of the veranda.
The frame type of construction involves the assembly of panels directly on the site where they are produced construction work. Such technologies are in no way inferior to other construction options in terms of quality, reliability, and durability.
Frame construction was also used by the Indians, and later it migrated to European and Western countries. When building panel and frame types, it is not difficult to produce the finishing touch. You won't have to wait for shrinkage time building materials, and the work itself is carried out in any season and time of year. The most important advantage of frame extensions to a house is the presence of a thermos effect, i.e. heat in a reliable insulated house will be retained several times longer than in ordinary residential buildings.
Instructions for installing a frame extension to a house
Before you start building, you need to prepare everything necessary tools and consumable construction materials. You will need the following items: bitumen, crushed stone, broken brick, concrete mixture and gypsum mortar. For construction equipment, you will need: an electric saw, a drill, an angle grinder, a sledgehammer, a hammer, a shovel and an axe.
At the first stage of construction, it is necessary to prepare the veranda for the extension.
You can form it as follows:
- you need to dig a pit into which a crushed stone cushion will be poured.
- Next, it will be necessary to install reinforced and form the formwork.
- Afterwards, fill the finished foundation with a special mixture. Next, form a frame extension, install a strap around the entire perimeter, with a width of at least 150 mm. You can also use wider beams, then in the cold season the house will be quite cool.
After installing the entire corner post, a width of at least 15x15 cm. Small sizes can also be used, but for the quality and reliability of the frame extension to the house, we recommend using posts with the specified types of sizes. Installation of all racks is carried out at the building level. The next step will be to install additional wooden posts around the entire perimeter. The step is 150 cm, and will depend on the thickness of the racks.
Before installing additional racks, you need to calculate where the slabs will be located. This calculation is made so that there is no need to cut the insulation panels. After this, the top trim is laid. It is mounted according to the same principle as the lower trim, with an extension beyond the crown of up to 30 cm.
After installing the trim, a wooden one is installed on the upper crown, which serves as wooden frame for roofs. Glassine is installed on the sheathing as a specific insulating building material. It is needed as a special safety material, which provides excellent protection in case of a leak in the veranda.
Installation and installation of veranda roofing
Veranda roof Roofing material for the veranda is chosen primarily based on financial capabilities. Today, the cheapest is a regular slate sheet 175 cm long.
The roof of a small frame extension to a house may require up to 30 sheets of this material. Exact quantity sheets will depend on how wide their overlap is. As a rule, laying is done with an overlap of 10 cm.
can be replaced with other building materials- today the market offers a huge number of options. The most affordable option for roofing is the use of roll roofing. But it can only be used in cases where the frame wooden extension no specific protection from moisture or cold is required.
The final stage of work
After installing the roof, you can begin installation and. Initially, a subfloor is installed, over which sheets of insulating building material or glassine are laid. Only after this procedure can you proceed with the assembly and installation of the finished floor.
Having completed the installation of the floor, you can insulate the veranda extension, starting from the walls. They are insulated in the same way as floors - first of all, heat-insulating sheets are laid, and only after that they are covered with glassine for special protection from moisture. Instead of glassine, you can use penofol. After completing the wall insulation stage, you can insulate the ceiling - all insulation panels are securely attached to the ceiling sheathing using self-tapping screws or special dowels.
After completing all the insulation work, you can safely begin finishing the walls and floors.
The following building materials are used for finishing: platbands, fillets, plinths and strips. Everything needs to be installed in the appropriate places.
When using the right technology installation and installation of the insulating layer and with the correct construction of the frame, the entire frame construction will serve you reliably and efficiently for a long time.
It can also be an ordinary frame extension to the house. It is worth noting that the structure itself is built from various building materials. An extension to a country house has many advantages. One of them is long service life. The extension serves various functions. If you need a room for recreation, then a frame extension to the house will fulfill this desire. The extension is built on various types. But the best foundation will be considered as in financially, and in quality.
This is an extension to your home that allows you to enjoy nature while still being in the comfort of your own home. It can be made of brick or wood, and we offer you the most elegant and least labor-intensive option - a veranda made of.
Location
First of all, you need to develop a construction project, and for this you need to clearly understand why you need it, what kind of veranda you want, what kind of view you will see from it. The veranda can be used as a hall, a dining room, a winter garden, or a living room.
- on the corner;
- from the end;
- from the front of the house.
If making another doorway is not a problem for you, keep in mind that a good place for a veranda will be on the western or eastern wall of the house, then it will be well lit and at the same time protected from the summer heat. Some even build a wraparound veranda around the perimeter of the entire house. Important! Do not place the entrance to the veranda opposite the entrance to the house-because of this, there will always be a draft on the veranda.
Next you need to decide on the size. Verandas along the entire length of the wall of the house look good, but smaller ones can be built. But you shouldn’t build verandas that extend beyond the length of the walls of the house - they look too heavy.
The most common shape for such an extension is rectangular, but it can also be in the form of a polygon or circle. 
The veranda can be open (without walls) or closed. If you install sliding panels, a closed building can easily turn into an open one if necessary.
List of materials and tools
To build a veranda, you will need the following tools:
- bucket;
- concrete mixer or tub;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- level and water level;
- cord to align the posts;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- drill of the appropriate diameter;
- perforator;
- electric saw;
- electric plane;
- jigsaw;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- square
You will also need the following materials:
- concrete (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel);
- brick, metal posts or beams;
- boards and nails for formwork;
- water;
- waterproofing on;
- beams 100x100 mm;
- floor board 30x100 mm;
- aluminum or polycarbonate profile;
- screws and special screws for polycarbonate;
- nails 100 mm, nails with a small head;
- staples;
- metal corners;
- anchor bolts;
- dowels;
- slats 30 mm;
- wooden lining;
- baseboard;
- vapor barrier;
- aluminum adhesive tape;
- insulation.
The veranda differs from the terrace in the presence
If you are building a veranda with your own hands from polycarbonate, then since this is enough lightweight material,the foundation can be poured using the columnar method. However, the final choice of method for pouring the foundation depends on the condition of the soil (frozen, swampy).
If you want a small extension, then the number of columns will be 4 pieces (1 in each corner). If you are planning a large veranda, the posts should be placed every 50 cm. 
Step by step instructions to pour the foundation of the veranda with your own hands it looks like this:
- Dismantle the porch and the canopy over it.
- Collect all trash.
- Remove the top layer of soil (15 cm).
- Mark locations for the posts.
- Dig holes for the posts with a depth equal to the depth of the house foundation.
- Pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the hole, and 10 cm of crushed stone or gravel on top of it.
- Build formwork of appropriate height from wooden boards.
- Pour concrete to ground level or all the way required height foundation.
- If you have chosen asbestos, metal or wooden posts, then before pouring concrete, you need to insert these posts, covering them with solutions to protect the metal or wood.
- Allow the concrete to dry thoroughly, occasionally watering it with water if the weather is hot outside.
- Remove the formwork.
- Fill the distance between the concrete and the ground with sand or small crushed stone.
- If you chose brick columns, then lay the brick to the required height.
- Align the height of all columns, taking into account that the floors in the house must be 30 cm higher than in the extension, otherwise its roof will not fit under the roof of the house (relevant for one-story mansions).
Frame
Let's look at the process of installing a frame for a veranda with our own hands step by step:
- Waterproof the foundation using roofing felt or bitumen, spreading it over the entire foundation.
- Insert the anchor into the posts, having previously drilled a hole.
- Schedule first external corner verandas, driving a nail.
- Starting from the first nail, mark all 4 corners of the building, carefully measuring the right angle (90 °).
- Execute bottom trim(first layer), laying out prepared 100x100 mm beams and joining them at the corners using the “half-tree” method (when half of the beam is cut out at the ends of two beams using an electric planer). If the beams are not connected at a corner, the beams can simply be connected to each other.
- It is better to lay insulation between the beams.
- Secure the connections with metal corners or staples.
- Use a water level to check how smooth the binding is.
- Use a square to check that the corners are not skewed.
- Screw the frame to the foundation with anchor bolts.
- Check again with a water level and a square to see if the harness is warped.
- Cut holes for the posts. A distance of 50 cm is considered optimal; the placement of windows and doors must be taken into account.
- Install the racks, attaching them to the bottom frame using staples. The racks must be embedded strictly vertically; this can be easily checked using a level.
- Before installing the top trim, so that the racks do not warp, install temporary spacers - nail the slats between the racks.
- In the beams for the top trim, cut holes for the posts.
- Using staples, attach the top trim to the posts.
- Remove the spacers.
Roof
The veranda roof can be:
- single-slope if the extension is attached to the house by a wide part;
- gable when the veranda is attached perpendicular to the house.
In order to cover the veranda, you must follow the following procedure:
- Make markings using a level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
- Attach the timber to the wall with anchor bolts.
- Make grooves for the rafters in the timber and in the top trim.
- Install the rafters using the “half-tree” method from the wall to the top frame so that they protrude beyond the frame (otherwise the rain will flow directly down the walls of the veranda). The distance between the centers of the rafters is maintained at 101 cm. The angle between the rafters and the wall, between the rafters and the top frame must be straight.
- Attach the rafters using metal brackets, corners, and nails.
- Make a frame using aluminum or polycarbonate profiles, screwing it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
- Attach polycarbonate sheets with self-tapping screws or fixing profiles.
Important! In order for water to drain, the timber should be positioned above the top trim of the frame, making an angle of approximately 40° , but not less than 25° .
If the roof for the veranda is designed in the form of an arch, aluminum or polycarbonate profiles can be used instead of wooden beams. Despite the fact that polycarbonate is a fairly convenient material to work with, some nuances must be observed when installing it:
- Don't shoot protective film until the end of installation, so as not to deform.
- If used aluminum profile, then the edges of the polycarbonate must be sealed with a special aluminum adhesive tape.
- Self-tapping screws must be specially designed for working with polycarbonate; they have a special gasket that does not allow the material to deform.
- The grooves for self-tapping screws need to be drilled a little wider, since polycarbonate can contract or expand with temperature changes.
- For the same reason, you should not screw the screw too tightly.
- Empty channels inside the polycarbonate should be positioned parallel to the roof slope.
- It is better to use a jigsaw to cut sheets.
Important! Take your time and don't be too slow when cutting polycarbonate sheets-If the speed of the jigsaw is high, they can melt, and if the speed is too low,-burst.
Floors and walls
Floors are best made of wood, using special 30x100 mm boards. The flooring is laid in the following order:
- Keep the boards indoors for 24 hours.
- Make markings using a water level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
- Attach the beam to the wall of the house with anchors.
- Use a water level to check that there are no distortions between the timber and the lower frame.
- Install the logs (base beams under the floor) perpendicular to how you will lay the floor boards, maintaining a distance of up to 1 m.
- Check for correct installation using a water level.
- Attach the logs using staples, corners, and nails.
- Check with a water level that there are no distortions.
- Lay out a thermal insulation layer.
- Install the floorboard, attaching it with self-tapping screws twice as long as the width of the board.
- If necessary, the boards must be sanded.
- Treat the boards with special solutions.
- Cover with varnish or paint.
Did you know? To make the floor warmer, you can attach the subfloor before installing the logs, drill the logs into subfloor, and lay insulation between the joists. A finished floor is laid on top of the insulation.
You can also make a concrete floor and install it on it.
To build polycarbonate walls on the veranda with your own hands, adhere to the following sequence:
- If desired, an aluminum or polycarbonate profile can be attached to wooden posts.
- Prepare polycarbonate sheets, cut with a jigsaw if necessary.
- Glue the edges of the sheets with a special aluminum tape.
- Starting at the left edge, attach the polycarbonate sheets to the posts with special screws so that the empty channels inside the sheet are perpendicular to the floor.
- Attach a special profile at the junction of the sheets.
Interior decoration of the veranda
To maintain harmony in the finishing, in combination with a wooden floor, it is better to decorate the wall of the house with wood. If the house is wooden, then additional finishing is not required; if not, you can use boards or wooden lining. The sequence of actions when laying the lining is as follows:
- Keep the paneling indoors for 1 day.
- Drill holes for dowels.
- Using dowels, install vertically 30 mm wide slats every 1 m.
- Use a level to check for distortions.
- Attach a vapor barrier (plastic film, foil, roofing felt) to the slats with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the horizontal slats to the vertical ones with self-tapping screws. The bottom rail should be 5 cm above the floor, and the top rail should be 5 cm below the top trim. The slats should be placed at the same distance around windows and doors.
- Check the installation using a water level.
- Nail the first strip of lining to the batten with small-headed nails. If you want to lay the lining perpendicular to the floor, then the first strip is nailed near the corner, if parallel, then at the top.
- Use a level to check the installation.
- Next, nail down the remaining strips, checking after each for any distortions.
- Complete the installation by installing the baseboard.
Important! You need to nail the lining in the place where the connecting strip begins, further from the edge, driving in nails at an oblique angle.
Windows and doors
If the walls of the veranda are built of wood or brick, then you can insert windows made of monolithic polycarbonate that will slide apart. To do this:
- At the top of the window, attach a guide along which the window will move with self-tapping screws. Doors in sliding wardrobes move along such guides.
- The guide can also be screwed at the bottom of the window, then the window will be secured more rigidly.
- Cut the polycarbonate sheet to the required size.
- Attach special rollers to the sheet to ensure mobility.
- Insert the structure into the guides.
Did you know? Windows are only 20% glass more transparent than windows made of polycarbonate, but polycarbonate is 20 times stronger than glass.
Sliding doors made of polycarbonate are installed in the same way. Using the same technology, you can make a completely sliding wall by screwing the guide to the top frame.
Depending on the type of guide, windows and doors can open in one direction, in both directions, or fold like an accordion.
By building a polycarbonate veranda with your own hands, you will not only give more noble look your home, and you can enjoy the sunrise or sunset, drops of falling rain, landscapes, with a cup of coffee or tea in your hand, without suffering from unpleasant weather conditions and saving on workers’ wages.
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Veranda to the house: projects, do-it-yourself photos at the dacha, video and useful information– you will find all this in this article. A veranda is an open or closed extension that serves as a living room, a place to relax or a room for clothing. The name comes from the Portuguese word varanda, which translates as glass terrace.
The presented material is divided into four parts:
- In the first part we will tell you what a closed and open veranda attached to a house is, as well as their characteristic features. We will select the optimal materials for the construction of the frame and roof decking. We will also touch on the topic of foundation.
- The second chapter presents a do-it-yourself veranda project for a house made of timber with a polycarbonate roof, in the form of an open-type building.
- The third chapter tells how to make a veranda in a closed country house from expanded clay blocks with a roof made of metal profiles.
- In conclusion, a couple more tips - let's talk about possible construction defects, insulation, flooring and inserting windows into the building.
You can use the navigation bar and move to the review chapter you are interested in or immediately learn how to build a veranda with your own hands. Let's get started with the review part!
Closed or open veranda attached to the house?
Open and closed types of verandas have their pros and cons, which you need to think about before starting construction.
The difference in a closed and open veranda attached to a house is based on the following principles:
- quantity of materials;
- protection from weather conditions;
- storage space;
- availability of review.
First of all, adding a veranda to a house spends much more resources on its construction than an open one. It requires fully built walls with window openings, insert window frames and a more solid foundation that can support the mass of walls. 
Weather protection and storage space go hand in hand. On a closed veranda with a door, it is quite possible to take shelter during a storm and calmly drink tea, while your neighbors from the house watch how their terrace board in the open place is flooded with rain. The same goes for storage - you can easily leave your bike on a closed veranda for the winter without worrying about the fact that someone might steal it.
On the other hand, an open veranda to the house gives an excellent view without requiring the installation of large and expensive windows. On a sunny day, it is quite possible to have an afternoon siesta on it, relaxing under the light breeze from the midday heat.
Once a decision has been made on what type of veranda is needed, try to develop a future layout for it on paper. This doesn’t require any special skill, but even the most banal sketches will help you decide on the amount of materials and their type. It would be a good idea to mark the territory on the site so as not to make mistakes in the calculations.
Choosing material for constructing the veranda frame
This chapter discusses the most practical and popular materials for creating a frame. The best options for building a veranda are:
- beam;
- brick;
- profile pipe;
- expanded clay concrete blocks.
Before talking about them, it is worth making a small digression. The frame is a very important thing, and how strong the veranda will be will depend on its strength, so you should not choose only based on the cost of materials.
When building a veranda at the dacha with your own hands, all types of materials for the frame can be combined with each other. Brick will be an excellent support for the facade, and beams and metal profiles will help to continue the walls or supports.
timber
The veranda to the house, the projects, photos of which are presented in this article, are classics. Timber is lumber larger than 100mm. It is made either from solid wood or by gluing individual boards together. The first option for creating timber is much more reliable, although somewhat more expensive.
The shape of the timber is usually square, or rectangular shape– round ones are already logs. It differs from each other in the processed, edging, sides. Bars are produced:
- double-edged;
- three-edged;
- four-edged.
Separately, it is worth highlighting rounded timber - this type of lumber is made from solid wood, the sides of which lead to strict correspondence of dimensions relative to the center. Such beams have special strength and structure: their tension is the same on all sides, which allows the beams to retain their shape when drying up to a deviation of half a millimeter.
The main physical quality of a timber veranda is its great elasticity and strength. Unfortunately, the structure of wood can sometimes have negative consequences - over time it dries out and expands due to temperature changes. Therefore, when planning the frame, you should take this into account, giving the tree a few millimeters of margin for expansion. In addition, we can highlight greater resistance to temperature and weather conditions, which are especially evident in dried and treated wood. 
The cost of timber for a veranda in a private house depends on its quality and the type of wood used. Each type of wood has its own appearance and properties. Beams made of spruce and pine are cheaper than their counterparts made of ash, beech or oak, but do not have such an intricate pattern.
A little later, in the second chapter of this article, we will look at how to make an open veranda from wood with your own hands step by step in 35 steps.
A brick is a product with regular sides, made from mineral substances - clay, sand and other materials. With skillful work, you can create a very strong and beautiful brick veranda attached to your house with your own hands. All bricks nowadays are standardized, which makes it possible to work with them very quickly. 
Brickwork has a number of unique properties:
- resistance to all types of weather conditions;
- fire resistance;
- durability.
In addition, brick does not require any special treatment - it does not fade over time, which allows you not to think about painting. The main disadvantage is the low resistance of the masonry to various impacts - over time it can crumble, and cracks can appear in the masonry.
Brick production is very well developed - you can find goods of any color and shape on the market. In the construction of brick verandas in a village, country house or private house, red bricks, which are made mainly from clay, and silicate, white bricks, made from sand and lime, are most often used.
Building with brick can cost a lot of money - a closed veranda can take a couple of dozen stacks, which will cost a lot of money, however, this pays off in the durability and strength of the masonry.
Profile pipe
The metal frame veranda has also become widespread among builders. A profile pipe is a solid or welded metal product with any cross-section that differs from the standard round one. It is made from rolled low-alloy steel (although there are also stainless steel specimens), with a thickness from 1mm to 22mm. The cross-section can be very different, from 10mm to 500mm. 
To the main properties profile pipe for the veranda include:
- ease;
- flexibility;
- no need for post-processing.
Such a pipe is ideal for creating veranda frames and posts, which are subsequently sheathed with various finishing materials. Working with it is quite simple - the pipes are cut with a grinder or iron scissors to the required height, after which they are twisted together with screws. 
The design of a veranda made from a profile pipe is easy to manufacture and will not require you to spend a lot of money, but it definitely requires subsequent processing with finishing materials. It is precisely the “frame” that is obtained from it, when almost completed structures emerge from other materials.
Expanded clay concrete blocks
Expanded clay concrete is one of the most convenient materials. The block is a kind of large-sized “brick” that is light and has heat capacity. Installing a veranda made of blocks is not a long process - the blocks are lubricated with the mixture and stacked on top of each other. 
The difference between the blocks lies in their formulation - expanded clay concrete with a high cement content is more durable and stable, but conducts heat better and, as a result, cools faster. Clay, on the contrary, gives softness to the material and better insulates temperature.
The greatest difficulty in their use for these types of verandas is the connection - expanded clay concrete glue, which is necessary for masonry, is quite difficult to use. The cost of such material is low - this allows you to not spend too much on the construction of the frame. 
Choosing roofing material
When deciding what your veranda will look like for your house (projects, do-it-yourself photos at the dacha below), you should turn to the roof, but only after you decide what the frame will be made of. A house with a veranda under one roof will look better, but it is not always possible to plan a veranda at the stage of designing a house.
The article will cover:
- corrugated sheeting;
- metal tiles;
- soft tiles.
All materials are great for a veranda, however, the best solution will continue the same type of roofing that is already on the roof of the house. Such a solution will make the veranda part of a single whole, which will create a complete design of the building.
On average, not too much money is spent on the roof of a veranda attached to a country house - 7-8 sq.m. corrugated sheets, for example, will cost a fairly modest amount, which allows you not to think about saving at this stage of work.
Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate sheets are a real “savior” for anyone who is planning to add a veranda to their house with their own hands. Their main advantage is considered to be transparency like glass without the latter’s disadvantages – fragility and heaviness.
Polycarbonate veranda attached to the house - photo at the dacha In addition, polycarbonate sheets:
- easily attach to any surface;
- have a large number of colors;
- protected from humidity and temperature changes.
The main vulnerability of polycarbonate is its poor resistance to impacts - large hail can easily pierce the sheet and ruin the roof. This is especially offensive when the sheet is thoroughly screwed - to avoid various patches, it is necessary to completely change the area.
Now it is produced in the format of solid, monolithic sheets and honeycomb panels. To work with it, it is enough to build a wooden frame, onto which sheets will be glued or screwed on top with screws and thermal washers. The screwdriver should be operated at low speed - otherwise you risk leaving a crack on the sheet.
Polycarbonate can help make a beautiful veranda to the house, completely filled with sunlight, with which no lighting is required during the daytime. 
Corrugated sheet
Corrugated sheet is a sheet of thin-rolled stainless steel with a wavy relief. The material is the fastest and most versatile when installing veranda roofing. On sale you can find a fairly wide range of profiled sheets - different in color, thickness (which varies from 1mm to 4mm), wave size and other factors. 
Profiled sheeting is credited with:
- ease of operation due to quick coverage of a large area;
- resistance to weather changes;
- flexibility.
The disadvantages of a thin profiled sheet can be considered softness - it can be easily pressed through, carelessly leaning on your elbow or stepping on it. Dents are quite difficult to straighten, so it is better to be careful when working. 
Attaching corrugated sheeting during the construction of a veranda in a private house is quite simple - the sheet is laid on transverse flat joists and screwed with screws with drills and a pressing rubberized washer. At the top of the sheet it is fixed at each interval between the waves, in the middle and end - after 1-2 intervals. The next sheet is laid overlapping the previous one.
It is better to work with a screwdriver in the same way as with polycarbonate - carefully screwing in the fastener at low speed, since excessive tension can deform the sheet, and the screw will leave a hole that is too wide, through which water will then flow.
Metal tiles
It can be given first place in popularity when building a covered veranda. Metal tiles are thin sheets of steel, stainless steel or aluminum, which are shaped like regular tiles. They are covered with a special protective layer on top, which, in addition to protecting against rust, provides a variety of colors and textures.
The material is well protected from corrosion, is lightweight and easy to install. A square meter of tile costs, relative to other materials, average. The price depends on the thickness, composition of the protective coating and the metal used. It is higher for aluminum and stainless steel, however, compared to them, steel provides less durability.
Creating a veranda roof in a country house from metal tiles is a very pleasant job, but its features depend on the characteristics of the sheet. For sheets without special fastenings in the form of a “loop-hook” system, it is necessary to firmly twist the sheets together with screws. The first sheet is scrolled in each wave, the middle - with an interval of several waves. Connections between two sheets are also scrolled into each wave.
With special fasteners you can do without large quantity screws - the first sheet is most firmly attached with screws, the rest are held on the first and are attached only through the section. The screwdriver should also be used as slowly as possible so as not to bend the texture.
If the roof of your house is made of metal tiles, then the roof of the veranda at the dacha can either be continued with it or covered with corrugated sheeting. From the same manufacturer, they are likely to have the same shade, which will give integrity between both buildings.
Soft tiles
Do-it-yourself veranda for your house – projects and photos made from timber This type tiles are made from bitumen and fiberglass. In appearance it is more like a flexible sheet plastic material. By using synthetic materials, it can be given any appearance that will fit perfectly into the exterior interior of the veranda.
It is durable and does not require special handling. Flexible tiles are quite resistant to external aggressive environments, but when high temperatures bitumen heats up and can become deformed over time.
At the moment it is mainly produced in the form of:
- rectangular sheets;
- diamonds;
- hexagons;
- “beaver tails” and other forms.
Working with it is quite simple - the material is placed from bottom to top so that the top sheet overlaps the previous one. The upper edge of the sheet is nailed or screwed with a screw with a hidden head. To place tiles on the veranda roof, a flat surface over the entire area is required, which can be made using a monolithic sheet of various materials.
When using wood materials, it is advisable to lay a waterproof lining between the tiles and the wood. These are sold in stores, however, thick plastic film will do just fine instead. You shouldn’t pull it tightly in advance - when driving in, the excess areas will go under the nail, and the film will straighten out on its own. This approach is very useful when using MDF or fiberboard panels.
Choosing material for the foundation for the veranda of the house
The foundation for the veranda of the house depends on the materials chosen for the frame. Different frames require different rigidity from the foundation, which imposes certain restrictions on its construction. Next, two foundation options will be considered:
- Columnar foundation for the veranda;
- Tape base.
The cost of a veranda base depends directly on its size. If you decide to design a house with a veranda, then a single foundation would be a good option. This allows for better distribution of air movement underground. Otherwise, already laid communications may interfere with the correct placement of foundation sections.
You should not save on the foundation - in the future it can do you a very disservice. The destruction will lead to the entire structure being mowed down and its destruction. It is very difficult to fix something like this - to do this you will have to either raise the foundation with a jack, or completely dismantle the veranda and build it anew. This will lead to damage to the materials used and to unnecessary financial costs.
The main essence of the columnar foundation for the veranda is hidden in the name. It consists of concrete columns on which are already located various materials. The design is easy to create and does not require the purchase of special materials - for the usual version you only need cement and sand. 
Columns can be made:
- made of brick;
- by casting from concrete;
- from foam concrete blocks;
- from parts of concrete pillars and so on.
The simplest method is cast concrete bases, on top of which there are pillars for a brick veranda. Conventional concrete is used - a mixture of cement with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.5. A hole with a diameter of about 600 mm is dug in the ground, into which a wooden box with sides of 500 mm and a height of 600-700 mm is immersed. To strengthen the base, you can place a metal mesh inside the casting, making reinforced concrete out of it, or throw in any unnecessary debris made of durable metal. It is advisable to lay a horizontal mesh every 50-100mm, which will provide the necessary pressure strength, and every 100mm vertically, which will prevent the post from falling apart. 
The quality of the brick does not play a special role - you can use old brick, which is cleared of the remains of the dried mixture, but in this case it is advisable to additionally sheathe it with finishing material. The masonry is made in three rows of bricks, each level changing direction. The posts are placed at a distance of 500-1000mm from each other, be sure to add additional support at each corner.
On such light foundations for a veranda, a framework of boards is usually created. You can choose almost any timber - for a strong foundation, a 100mm by 60mm timber is sufficient. The beams are screwed to the brickwork using metal corners on dowels on both sides of the board. 
The main advantage of a columnar foundation for a veranda to a house with your own hands is the speed of construction - most of the time is spent on hardening the mixture and, in the case of adding brick supports, the speed of collecting the masonry. It depends on the skill of the master, but in general, it also goes quickly.
Despite the fact that the masonry itself is strong, the beams will not be able to support the weight of closed brick or expanded clay concrete masonry, therefore it is only suitable for light frames made of wood or metal profiles. Increased strength can be achieved by using iron joists, but they are expensive and very massive. 
Strip foundation
This type of foundation for a veranda is a completely poured concrete foundation. It is made by pouring a mixture of cement, sand and fine gravel into pre-prepared trenches with a wooden box, formwork. The operating time increases depending on the height of the foundation and the size of the veranda. 
Such a foundation is much stronger than a columnar one, so you can safely place brickwork and expanded clay concrete blocks - it will be able to withstand their weight and will not sag over time.
Do-it-yourself work with a strip foundation for a veranda begins with digging a trench. Its depth should be approximately 400-500mm. The formwork is assembled over this trench. In general, the depth of the foundation should correspond to the frost depth in your area. After completing the collection of the box, pouring the mixture begins.
The mixture is made in a ratio of 1:2:2.5 from cement, sand and concrete, respectively. For greater strength, it is worth laying it with a reinforced mesh both horizontally and vertically, with a pitch of each mesh of 100-200mm. 
It must be taken into account that the strongest foundation will be with a one-time pour, since with different hardening times the concrete forms separate pieces, which in the future may sag, causing cracks throughout the building. It is advisable to work as quickly as possible - a concrete mixer or custom-made concrete will be a good help.
The same problem will occur when adding a veranda to an already ready home with a foundation. A good idea would be to place metal rods with reinforced mesh welded to them in the finished foundation. This will save you from problems in the future. 
After hardening, the boxes are removed, and the ground next to the foundation is leveled. To make the area more beautiful, you can fill the area next to such a foundation with pebbles, or place flower beds on it. In the third chapter of the material, we will look in more detail at how to make the correct foundation for a veranda in the form of a strip.
Veranda to the house: projects, do-it-yourself photos at the dacha and how to plan the event correctly
Of course, the best option is when the veranda to the house with your own hands in the country (projects, photos below) is planned before the house is built, so that they have a common foundation and a more complete overall design. This avoids:
- collapse of individual parts of the foundation;
- differences in materials and their shades;
- the presence of unnecessary elements that may interfere with the veranda - windows, doors, etc.
However, sometimes the idea of building a veranda for a house appears already during the operation of a residential building. In this case, you need to immediately decide:
- what kind of foundation is required;
- Will the materials of the veranda and the house match?
A column foundation is much more convenient for adding a veranda to a house, especially when the height of the house allows it. In this case, additional pillars are also placed along the perimeter of the house wall so that the floor of the future veranda does not sag due to constant or dynamic pressure.
If your plans include creating a closed veranda, or using brick or expanded clay concrete masonry, it is better to use a more durable strip foundation. Additional strength to the connection can be given either by special adapters, which are mounted into the foundation of the house and filled with the mixture, or by improvised materials. As practice shows, you can do without them. 
The location of the veranda relative to the doors and windows is also important. An open veranda will not interfere with the windows in any way - the level of light passing through the opening will also be sufficient, but on hot days the roof can save you from the scorching sun.
You should not place the veranda next to the windows of personal rooms - people who will be on the veranda can violate the owner’s privacy and make his life much less comfortable.
A closed veranda and windows in the house are incompatible things. Even with large window openings this can interfere with the overall design of the room and render the window useless for the home. However, there are exceptions to any rule.
Incredibly cozy The location of the door is also quite important. If your house has two doors - a front door, the entrance from the front side, and a spare one, for example, leading from the living room to the garden, it would be more logical to place a veranda near the second one. Of course, if you want to radically change the layout of the house, you can add an additional exit to the veranda, which will become an additional highlight.
When planning, you should take into account the direction of the door opening - it can become a problem for the future interior and interfere with the arrangement of furniture. Problems with this can be avoided if you use sliding entrance doors, or by making the veranda part of the house, insulating it and abandoning front door on the wall of the main building. 
The difference in the time of construction of the veranda and the house can also affect the materials. When looking for similar material, you may come across:
- differences in shades that change from batch to batch;
- lack of the required range of material in stock;
- disappearance of a material from sale due to its discontinuation from production.
Of course, a veranda and a house made of the same materials look much better, but if you could not find a completely matching roof or brick, the ideal solution would be to select contrasts, both in color and texture. The only thing you shouldn’t experiment with is the roof. Different roofs (with the exception of polycarbonate) rarely look good. 
Polycarbonate veranda attached to the house - photo instructions for the project
This master class looks at how to make a veranda for a house (project and photo below) of the classic open type. This combination of materials allows you to quickly build an area open to the sun. summer veranda with your own hands made of wood, on which you can rest on a hot day. The dimensions of the finished building are 3000mm in length and 6000mm in width.
Selection of wood and its properties
When choosing wood for a summer veranda, you need to take into account that it will be under constant influence environment, which negatively affects the tree.
There are two main types of wood on the market.
1. Coniferous trees - spruce, pine, larch, fir;
The most accessible is pine, which is used both in carpentry and for the construction of buildings. It is cheaper than other types of wood, which allows you to save money during construction.
Another good option for an attached polycarbonate veranda to the house (photo below) is spruce. It can withstand loads well and does not bend, and is also not subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity, which can be important for construction in coastal areas of the seas and in rainy areas. The properties of coniferous wood are presented in the table.
Physical properties of softwood (average value)
| Wood type | Density, kg/m3 | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| at 12% humidity | completely dry | conditional | volumetric | radial | tangential | |
| spruce | 445 | 420 | 360 | 0,43/0,50 | 0,16/0,17 | 0,28/0,31 |
| larch | 660 | 630 | 520 | 0,52/0,61 | 0,19/0,20 | 0,35/0,39 |
| cedar pine | 435 | 410 | 350 | 0,37/0,42 | 0,12/0,12 | 0,26/0,28 |
| Scots pine | 500 | 470 | 400 | 0,44/0,51 | 0,17/0,18 | 0,28/0,31 |
| Caucasian fir | 435 | 410 | 350 | 0,46/0,54 | 0,17/0,18 | 0,31/0,34 |
| Siberian fir | 373 | 350 | 300 | 0,39/0,44 | 0,11/0,11 | 0,28/0,31 |
A cut of softwood in the photographs below.
2. From deciduous trees– linden, birch, aspen, beech, oak.
Larch and cedar are opposite to each other. Larch is very difficult to process - the density of its core is twice as high as that of other trees, which makes the timber highly susceptible to any impact, while cedar, on the contrary, is quite soft to work with. Both are excellent at resisting moisture accumulation.
Among deciduous trees, you can take a closer look at oak - it is incredibly durable and protected from all types of damage that can overtake a tree. The main disadvantage is its cost. Ash and beech are also good for porches, but they are very susceptible to infestation. The properties of hardwood are presented in the table.
Physical properties of hardwood (average value)
| Wood type | Density, kg/m3 | Coefficients of shrinkage (numerator) and swelling (denominator), % | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| at 12% humidity | completely dry | conditional | volumetric | radial | tangential | |
| linden | 495 | 470 | 400 | 0,49/0,58 | 0,22/0,23 | 0,30/0,33 |
| birch | 630 | 600 | 500 | 0,54/0,64 | 0,26/0,28 | 0,31/0,34 |
| beech | 670 | 640 | 530 | 0,47/0,55 | 0,17/0,18 | 0,32/0,35 |
| English oak | 690 | 650 | 550 | 0,43/0,50 | 0,18/0,19 | 0,27/0,29 |
| alder | 520 | 490 | 420 | 0,43/0,49 | 0,16/0,17 | 0,28/0,30 |
| aspen | 495 | 470 | 400 | 0,41/0,47 | 0,14/0,15 | 0,28/0,30 |
See the cut of the presented deciduous trees in the photographs provided.
The choice of polycarbonate and its characteristics
Choosing polycarbonate for a veranda is not difficult, especially when you know what characteristics are needed from it. Polycarbonate sheet nowadays consists of several layers:
- protective layer that filters ultraviolet radiation;
- a coating added to selectively transmit light;
- polycarbonate plate.
Changing these characteristics allows you to achieve any polycarbonate appearance and transmitted light. The color can be any - everything is limited only by the imagination of the master, however, in this work the choice was made in favor of ordinary, transparent polycarbonate. 
The sizes of the sheets also vary - from small panels 1000x1500mm to huge sheets 5000x10000mm, however, polycarbonate sheets are easy to cut construction knife. The thickness of the sheet affects its strength and wind resistance, but as the thickness increases, the price of each sheet also increases.
It is worth remembering that the polycarbonate sheet on the veranda roof can crack very quickly under high pressure. This imposes restrictions on the creation of various roofs - large gaps between the rafters can lead to breakage of the sheet at the first serious snowdrifts.
In this project, we made only one row of beams, which went in increments of 866 mm, since it was done in the Crimea, where very little snow falls in winter. You can see the main properties of monolithic and honeycomb panels in the table below.
Veranda drawing
A drawing of a veranda helps to avoid various design mistakes, and you don’t need to have any special drawing skills; a regular sketch will do. 
The image shows a schematic drawing of a veranda for a house 3 by 6 meters. The total width of the veranda - 6000 mm is achieved due to the width of the roof. For the first beam, an indent of 300 mm is made from the corners. The height of the vertical beams is 2000mm, they are installed with a gap of 1750mm. Front roof crossbar – 6000mm. 
The drawing of the veranda shows the roof. For it, longitudinal logs 3000 mm long are used, which are located at a distance of 866 mm from each other.
This arrangement of the beams allows for maximum sun transmission from the roofing - a small number of joists guarantees a greater amount of rays.
To strengthen the structure, you can put 816mm long bars between each longitudinal joist with a step of 1000mm from the beginning of the roof. This will firmly strengthen the polycarbonate sheets.
By the way, if you want to do this, look for the relevant material on our website.
Based on the measurements, we will need:
- 1 beam 6000mm long;
- 7 beams 3000mm long;
- 4 beams 2000mm long.
The total roof area is equal to 18 sq.m.
To strengthen the pillars, special metal legs with pins will be made, which are attached to the lower end of the beam and recessed into the concrete pillar during its pouring. You will need 4 of them.
Preparatory activities
This veranda for the house (project, photo below) provides for the preparatory activities described in the table.
 | 1. 7 beams with a section of 50x150mm. All the main elements will be sawn from it, and the corners will be cut from the remains, which will serve for additional fastening of the vertical supports. |
 | 2. 4 metal supports that will be laid with concrete and provide stability to the wooden beams |
 | 3. They can be made from leftover metal corners. They were pre-cut to a length of 100mm, and then welded to each other with an exact fit to 50mm. |
 | 4. A metal pin 500-600 mm long is welded to them from below. The length is not very critical - the reinforcement will be inserted into future holes and filled with concrete. 4 holes are pre-drilled in each wall, into which self-tapping screws will then be screwed in to secure the post in the support. |
 | 5. Cellular polycarbonate with a total area of 18 sq.m. A sheet measuring 2100x9000mm and 8mm thick was purchased. The sheet was cut for the future roof into pieces measuring 3000x2100, a total of 3 such pieces were required. The remaining 300mm can either be reduced by cutting from the last sheet, or left. When cutting, it is better to leave a margin of 10-20mm to avoid shortages - this will insure you in case of an error in the calculations. |
 | 6. You will also need steel blanks 450mm long and 10-15mm wide. |
 | 7. They are marked into three parts of 150mm each. 3-4 holes are drilled in the extreme parts, which will serve for screwing in self-tapping screws and subsequently securing the upper frame trim to the crossbars of the house. |
 | 8. We receive the material ready for installation. |
 | 9. Stripes must be painted in any color. The most convenient way to do this is with regular iron enamel. You can also read in a special article on our website (point 5). |
A mixture is also required. Cement “200” is suitable. For 4 concrete columns you will need approximately 1 bag of cement, 2 bags of coarse sand and approximately 2 volumes of gravel, which is necessary for strength.
Tools needed:
- manual circular saw;
- grinder with grinding wheel, grain size – 150;
- electric plane;
- sandpaper for finishing minor polishing imperfections;
- drill with long drill for preparing holes in corners and crossbars, as well as a nozzle for mixing the cementitious mixture;
- screwdriver;
- rubber mallet;
- corner;
- level.
The indicated list of tools will give you the opportunity to work calmly without spending a lot of time preparing the material. By the way, a circular saw can be completely replaced with a regular one, hand saw, and the electric plane – with a hand plane for wood.
You definitely shouldn’t give up on a screwdriver - it will help you twist the structure and drill all the holes. Nails don't always perform well, especially when it involves nailing wood and metal together through a hole in the latter.
Columnar foundation
The discussed do-it-yourself veranda project for a house involves the use of timber as a support with reinforcing pins screwed to them with a stand for connection (mortgage).
The bottom trim is not used; the role of the floor is played by already laid tiles. This good option save on flooring without losing quality.
Step 10. For the future foundation, some of the tiles are disassembled and holes are dug in them. 
Depth - approximately 300-400mm, diameter - about 200mm. This veranda is quite light, so it is not necessary to assemble a box for the post and fill it with reinforced mesh. If you plan to install the lower trim using more materials, it is necessary to strengthen the posts. Let's move on to the next stage - assembling the frame - which will bring us closer to answering the question of how to make a veranda for your home!
Frame assembly
The frame of the veranda will be assembled from timber. To do this, you must first saw it into blanks and bring it into nice view by grinding. You should start by sawing 6000mm timber.
First, you should mark the required dimensions using a tape measure. On four beams we mark sections of 3000mm, on two more – 2000mm, after which we begin sawing. It is advisable to do this before sanding, since cutting already sanded wood may leave burrs and unsightly edges.
To create this veranda, it is very important to monitor the angle of the supports - they must go exactly 90 degrees, otherwise the 6000mm support beam will lie unevenly and there will be gaps visible to the naked eye.
 | 11. We begin to process the wood. Each board must be leveled electric plane. First, a layer is removed from one side. |
 | 12. Next, remove from the other side. The difficulty in working may be with the wider side - without skill it is quite difficult to remove the same size on each side, and it is even more difficult to do this with a regular mechanical plane. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to remove too much - the board for the veranda will be too loose in the prepared corner. |
 | 13. After trimming, we grind the surface using a grinder and a grinding wheel. |
 | 14. We carry out the procedure with each board. After this, it is advisable to put them in a dry, moisture-protected room so that the boards do not absorb water before being coated with a protective composition. |
The remaining pieces of timber will be used to make corners. Good support corner:
- has an angle of 45 degrees;
- designed for the required weight.
To do this, you don’t need to have much experience - just measure the same distance on each side of the board on which it will be attached. Because when connecting this design will take the form of a triangle, then the marked point will be its angles.
After this you need to use the formula: a 3 =b 2
Where a is the measured distance on the board, and b is the desired length outside supports. We cube the distance on the board and put the resulting number in the root and extract it. You can also do this using a calculator - the resulting number will be accurate and will not let you down.
 | 15. To make an even 45 degree angle, simply gently bend one of the corners of an A4 sheet of paper to the opposite side. The resulting angle will be 45 degrees. |
 | 16. You can now draw corners from the outside and saw them. After all the manipulations, we will have corners for the veranda almost ready for installation. |
 | 17. We also grind them, and then make them perpendicular to the beveled plane of the hole using a long drill. |
 | 18. It’s better to make several holes in checkerboard pattern– this way the boards can be pressed evenly over the entire area. With such holes, the frame will come out more even, and the screws will definitely not go beyond the board. It is important that the holes are slightly smaller than the selected screws - otherwise we simply will not turn the wood and the self-tapping screw will lie freely in the boards, without having any effect on the strength of the structure. |
 | 19. After this, metal “legs” must be screwed to the future pillars for the veranda frame. To begin with, they need to be placed at the ends of the beams. If they are adjusted evenly, then this will have to be done with a hammer or mallet. |
 | 20. After the support is level on the beam, it must be screwed in place. We used 35mm screws, but you can use any you have on hand. You need to twist it first from one edge, and then from the other. |
 | 21. This way we ensure uniform placement of the part. The self-tapping screws screwed in the middle are support ones, so they should be screwed in when the part is already in place. As a result, we get a similar design. |
 | 22. Place the structure on the ground. The residue left after cutting can be used for support and more convenient twisting in the future. |
 | 23. In our case, we need 200mm self-tapping screws, which will be screwed on top of the load-bearing logs of the veranda, as well as 152mm self-tapping screws, which will fasten the corner supports to the boards. |
 | 24. We twist everything, measuring the surfaces using metal corner or rulers - this will make the frame much smoother. |
 | 25. It is better to recess the heads of the screws inside, or make them flush with the board - otherwise they will stick out, and when painting, excess varnish will collect and cause smudges. |
 | 26. After we have built the frame for the veranda with our own hands, it needs to be raised. You can’t handle this alone, so it’s better to call a neighbor or friends. The raised frame must be strengthened with one longitudinal joist. |
 | 27. In this case, it is temporarily secured with a clamp, which pulls the two together. On the side of the house, the beam is secured using a metal blank. |
 | 28. To level, you can place identical metal corners under each rack. |
 | 29. When the structure is leveled, it is necessary to begin pouring the cement mixture into the prepared holes. The mixture is made from cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1:2.5:2. Water should be added slowly until the future concrete reaches the desired viscosity. There is no need to make it too liquid or thick - it should flow smoothly from the spatula, as this will dry it out faster. |
 | 30. When the mixture hardens, the frame will look like this. After this you can paint it. For this veranda we used a tinted antiseptic in the color “Walnut” with an additional coating yacht varnish. Here you can use any types of paints and antiseptics - everything is absolutely at your discretion. |
Upper harness
 | 30. Work for the top trim of the veranda begins with painting the longitudinal joists. |
 | 31. Acrylic varnish was used for coating. It impregnates the wood with moisture and prevents the process of rotting from developing, since it kills any bacterial infections. |
 | 32. After finishing painting, you need to start securing the veranda joists between the house and the frame. It is better to attach it to the house first, and it is very convenient to do this using prepared and painted plates. They are screwed on with screws on both sides. The free edge can simply lie on the frame - the concrete should already hold it quite firmly. It is better to twist the lag that we used to level the frame last, since it still holds the structure. We screw the end of the frame using 200mm self-tapping screws. |
 | 33. It is necessary to screw the screws into the frame quite accurately - otherwise there is a risk of the screw passing to the side, through the wood, which will spoil the appearance of the structure. After fixing all the logs, the structure will hold firmly and will not be dependent on the wind. |
Roof roof
Step 34. We cover the roof using already prepared polycarbonate sheets. They are attached to the upper plane of the longitudinal ones using self-tapping screws and special thermal washers. By the way, you can do without them - the veranda is open, and this will not particularly affect its insulation. The film must be removed from surfaces in advance.
The polycarbonate sheet has two sides - back and front. On the front side there is a film with marks indicating that the panel does not transmit ultraviolet rays.
You need to twist it as slowly as possible, otherwise there is a risk of cracking the polycarbonate.
Step 35. You may encounter a problem when the connection of two polycarbonate sheets extends beyond the joists. In this case, a special jumper is used, which is either put on the sheet in advance or can be placed in it afterwards. For this you only need a mallet. The jumper is driven between the sheets and does not require special fastening. 
Floor installation
On such a veranda there is no need for additional installation of the floor, but if it is needed in the future, you can simply create a lower frame on small posts along the edges and secure it with screws to the existing joists. After this, the frame can be covered with any finishing material - decking board, MDF board or linoleum.
After finishing the work, you get such a beautiful open veranda made by yourself. 
The polycarbonate used provides excellent transmission for sunlight, protecting the place from ultraviolet radiation. However, if there is too much light for you, then you can sew them that will be lined with the ceiling - this way they will cover up the excess sun.
It would be a good idea to decorate the racks with curtains or even large blinds. You can also hang colorful garlands, which will bring some New Year’s aesthetics even on the hottest evening, making the space more cozy.
If you wash the floor well, it will be quite possible to walk on it barefoot, taking off your shoes at the threshold. Carpets and other utensils can be placed on the veranda, and a rocking chair or hammock will be an excellent addition to the relaxation area.
Video of the construction of a timber veranda
More details on how to build a veranda for your house with your own hands can be obtained from the video, which shows in detail all the processes described in the article. Special thanks to its creators for a clear and detailed explanation of all the points!
Now let's look at how to build a closed veranda for a country house with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself covered veranda made of expanded clay blocks
A veranda for a house with your own hands in the country (the project and photos are described below) from blocks is great for creating warm room. It is quite durable and can serve as a good basis for building a balcony in the future.
Characteristics of building blocks
The veranda will be made using expanded clay blocks. The house itself is built from the same ones, so they will harmonize perfectly. See below for a table of types and characteristics of such blocks.
| Block type | Dimensions, mm | Density, kg/m3 | Emptiness, % | Strength grade | Frost resistance | Thermal conductivity | Weight, kg | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| four-slit | 390x190x188 | 800-1000 | 40 | m35-m50 | f50 | 0,19-0,27 | 11-14 | |
 | 390x190x188 | 800-1000 | 40 | m35-m50 | f50 | 0,19-0,27 | 11-14 | |
 | 390x190x188 | 800-1000 | 40 | m35-m50 | f50 | 0,19-0,27 | 11-14 | |
 | 390x230x188 | 800-1000 | 40 | m35-m50 | f50 | 0,19-0,27 | 13-16 | |
 | 390x190x188 | 1000 | 20 | m50 | f50 | 0,27 | 14 | |
 | 390x190x188 | 1200 | m75 | f50 | 0,36 | 17 | ||
 | 390x90x188 | 900 | 25 | m35 | not standardized | 0,3 | 6 | |
 | 390x90x188 | 1200 | m50 | not standardized | 0,36 | 8 | ||
The blocks, despite their impressive size, are very light and at the same time heat-resistant, so the closed version of the veranda in the future can be easily insulated without constructing thick layers of insulation or sandwich panels.
The size of the blocks used is 390x190x188mm, quite common and available in any store. If necessary, expanded clay is easily cut into pieces using a grinder and a stone disc. 
Drawing and project
In order not to make mistakes during construction, it is better to think in advance about the design of the veranda for construction with your own hands at the dacha. We work with expanded clay blocks, so a more solid strip foundation is required.
You need to start developing a project by calculating the territory. In this case, a veranda is made to country house at the main entrance, so you need to calculate the area next to it.
The distance from the house is 2500mm, the width is 3500mm. The foundation is 500mm high. The height of the wall is 2300mm, with the highest point of the roof being 3060mm. In addition, there will be two doorways, the width of which is 750mm, as well as a window combined with the front door.
The roof will be sloped, one part is attached to the house, the other - to the erected walls. The floor is poured with concrete and in the future it can be covered with any finishing material.
In total, the area of the room will be approximately 4.5 square meters, construction volume – about 10 cubic meters, excluding roof drop. You can see the drawing of the veranda below.
Veranda to the house - project and photo of the actual building Tools and materials
To build a veranda at the dacha with our own hands we will need:
- Expanded clay concrete blocks;
- Cement;
- Sand;
- Gravel;
- Wooden beams and boards;
- Metal profile for roofing.
The amount of expanded clay concrete is calculated depending on the height and width of the wall. We needed approximately 150 expanded clay blocks, including cutting.
Cement is taken at the rate of 1 bag per 2 sq.m., 2.5 parts of sand and 2 parts of gravel are added to it. To save on cement, old concrete blocks will be laid inside, which will allow the entire volume to be filled faster.
You don't have to buy sand - if you have old, unsifted sand, you can clean it using a similar sieve. 
Any metal mesh with small cells, nailed to a box of boards, will help out perfectly and make old sand “newer.”
For formwork you can use any more or less smooth boards, which are suitable for creating a flat surface. You will need one board, 50x150mm and 2500mm long, and one beam, 150x150mm. The logs will be 50x150mm in size and approximately 2200mm long.
The metal profile is taken taking into account the surface - in this case it is equal to 14 sq.m.
From the tools we need:
- Concrete mixer;
- Hammer;
- Accurate level;
- Spatula;
- Circular saw;
- Grinder with a stone saw.
By the way, a circular saw can be replaced with a grinder with wood cutting circles, but a circular saw will give a much more even and accurate cut.
Strip foundation
 | 1. To start construction, you need to dig a ditch. We will dig to the freezing level of 500mm. Taking into account that we will make the height of the foundation 500mm, then such dimensions will be enough for strength. |
 | 2. To speed up pouring and spend less cement and sand on work, we will place old ones inside concrete pillars, which are not used anywhere. |
 | 3. After this, you can begin constructing the formwork. It should be approximately 500mm higher than the ditch. Any boards can be used, however, the gaps between them should not allow concrete to pass through, and the surface adjacent to the concrete should be flat. |
 | 4. To prevent the formwork of the future veranda from falling apart, we twist the boards together onto small pegs, and place the resulting panels on supports. They can rest on any solid surface, or be driven into the ground and screwed to the formwork. To get a foundation that is even in width, we will add spacers from small pegs. |
 | 5. As the concrete is poured, the spacers will be removed. After finishing, check everything for evenness using a level. This will create a “trench” into which concrete will be poured. To fix the width of the formwork, the walls can be twisted on top with small planks. This will not allow her to either disperse or collapse. |
 | 6. After this, we begin to pour concrete for the base of the veranda. We remove the pegs as the concrete is poured since they are not needed as part of the future foundation. After complete filling, we level the surface - this is necessary for even laying of expanded clay concrete blocks. In case of rain, it is advisable to cover the wet concrete, otherwise it may absorb excess liquid. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork must be removed. |
Monolithic slab as a floor
During the construction of the veranda, the option of a completely poured concrete floor was chosen, which allows you to put any covering on top.
 | 7. First, you should raise the floor. For this, either old concrete floors or ordinary soil, which should be compacted very tightly, are suitable. With a house foundation height of 700mm, it is necessary to raise the floor approximately 400-450mm from the ground. After this, the surface is covered with cellophane to insulate it from moisture. |
 | 8. For strength, any reinforced mesh is laid out on the floor of the veranda. To save money, you can use old bed frames or mattress springs - they are no worse. The most used places – the entrances – need to be strengthened especially firmly. |
 | 9. After this, the mixture is started and the floor is filled with it approximately 5-7mm. |
 | 10. After finishing the mixture, it must be allowed to dry for one day. You can level it with a wide spatula or any flat and smooth board. |
 | 11. For convenience, the step will be flooded. We separately assemble a reinforced frame for it. |
 | |
 | 13. Fill with more liquid concrete. This step will last for decades! After it dries, we advise you to pave it. |
Laying expanded clay concrete blocks
After the floor is ready, you can begin laying the walls of the veranda. In this case, it was done the other way around, however, it does not make any difference, but it will be more convenient to work with the field already made.
 | 14. Before starting work, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. For this purpose, a special mastic made of bitumen and rubber was used. |
 | 15. A layer of roofing felt is laid on top, which will not allow any moisture rising from the ground to pass through. If you don’t have mastic, you can use regular tar or bitumen - they are no worse in effect. They must be laid in an even layer, since excess pieces do not allow creating an even laying. |
 | 16. Before fixing the blocks with the mixture, they should be placed on the foundation and tried on. You can stretch a thread along the edges of the corner blocks - it will show the border of the masonry. |
 | 17. After fitting and alignment, you can begin laying the blocks. The masonry must be checked according to the level that is placed between adjacent blocks. The mixture for expanded clay concrete blocks is mixed, if possible, in a concrete mixer - quite a lot of it is required in volume, and it is undesirable to be distracted once again by tedious work. If necessary, the amount of mixture under the block is added, or excess is removed. |
 | 18. Once ready, the masonry should be allowed to dry. The top layers and the mixture absorb moisture well, therefore, to speed up the process and protect them from the weather, you need to cover them with cellophane. |
Veranda roof truss system
 | 19. To install the rafters, you will need one rectangular beam and one square one. First, the timber is attached to the side of the house. |
 | 20. Using a hammer drill, holes are made in the beam and wall. When working with a beam, you need to use the drilling mode, and with the wall of the house - a combined mode. After drilling, you need to hammer in the dowels. It is enough to use 200-300mm dowels, which are strengthened with a hammer. |
 | 21. After this, the veranda beam is strengthened with additional corners. |
 | 22. The next step is to lay the timber on the wall pillars. The beam together with the wall is drilled to 300-400mm. |
 | 23. A metal pin is driven in. You can buy it in a store, or make it from scrap materials, for example, a piece of an old lever from a car. |
 | 24. Next, the rafters are laid out on which the roof will be supported. They must be laid out at intervals of 150-250mm, otherwise the roof may collapse under the weight of the snow. |
 | 25. The rafters are secured using self-tapping screws or nails. |
Rafters can be treated with impregnation and antiseptic - this way they will last much longer and will not require replacement.
Sheeting and roof painting
 | 26. For the roof of our small veranda, a metal profile is used - to begin with, it is lined across the entire roof so that it is convenient to measure and, if necessary, cut. |
 | 27. You also need to make sure that there is a margin at the edges that prevents water from getting onto the rafters. The next sheet is screwed on top of the previous one, forming an overlap that will protect the veranda from rain and wind. |
 | 28. To refresh the appearance of the sheets, the roof can be additionally painted with enamel or nitro paint. |
 | 29. When choosing a color, you need to take into account the primary paint on the roof - white colors will require several layers to completely settle on darker ones. After this, the frame of our cozy veranda itself will be ready for cladding, inserting windows and, if necessary, insulation. |
Video of the construction of a closed veranda
More details, as well as a description of the process, can be seen in these videos. Special thanks to the creator of the presented videos for relevant and useful information!
The first part is the foundation:
The second part is the walls and floor:
The third part is the roof:
How to avoid defects during construction
Construction is invariably associated with errors; they must be eliminated or minimized in every possible way.
Approximately half of all defects are associated with uneven areas. Masonry that was not checked for level and came out skewed is short-lived and will quickly crack, and unaligned beams will transfer the curvature to the roof. 
To avoid this, be sure to use a level and a square. The first will allow you to create a flat surface relative to the ground, and the second will allow you to make even 90-degree angles.
Don’t be afraid of preliminary calculations - accuracy will help you save material and get rid of defects in buildings. When working with masonry and wood, we must not forget the usual laws of mathematics - the dependence of the sides on the angles of a triangle and calculations of the area and volume of geometric shapes. Even despite the famous phrase of Albert Einstein. 
The tool also plays a role, but the dependence here can be traced not on its cost, but on the quality and skills of the master. A good metal plane will serve much better than a cheap electric one, and it’s not a fact that an expensive one will be much better than it.
How to insulate a veranda
You can only insulate a closed veranda - for an open one it makes no sense. The degree of insulation required depends on the region. For example, for Crimea and Krasnodar region, where the temperature rarely drops below zero, ordinary compacted polypropylene placed under the walls, ceiling and floor is sufficient. 
Colder regions require warmer solutions - foam sheets, penoplex, felt and other materials. When insulating, it is not so much the thickness that is important, but rather the absence of “bare” areas and holes in the walls. All surfaces need to be insulated, from ceiling to floor.
Also, when strip foundation, you need to take care that there are no holes in it - the cement itself creates a good air cushion that needs to be protected from the cold.
There are a huge number of materials for laying floors - linoleum, terrace board, tiles, rubber coating and others. It all depends on your preferences and design decisions, however, there are some features of the materials. 
Tiles are always much cooler than linoleum or decking, but they are extremely resistant to all types of wear and tear. Linoleum sometimes tears easily, but it is much warmer. Everything is dictated by the characteristics of your home and region, as well as whether the veranda is open or closed.
Also, do not forget about the possibility of painting the floor covering. Paint can look very beautiful - for example, rubber paint for concrete surfaces creates a durable and durable coating. The boards can even be painted every year, updating their appearance and preserving them from wear and tear.
How to insert a window into the veranda?
Glazing of the veranda depends on your requirements. To equip you only need a window opening. If desired, you can also glaze an ordinary veranda - high sliding windows with doors will be a wonderful design solution for any home. 
The cost of the issue depends on the glass itself. Cheap options are ordinary glass without the possibility of opening, but this is completely impractical. The complexity of the work is dictated by the features of the veranda - it is much more difficult to insert windows if they were not planned.
A veranda is an extension to the main building, located so that the front door of the house is inside it. The veranda performs practical functions to protect the house and increase the area, as well as decorative ones - in the summer you can spend time here with family and friends.
Building a veranda frame for a house is not capital construction, therefore, with due seriousness to the matter, you can build it yourself. Since the room is not intended for heating, there is no need to design a full-fledged room with heating communications, and its design cannot be called complex. Here you will receive the necessary instructions for creating a veranda frame with your own hands, from the foundation to the roof.
It’s great when the idea of creating a veranda came to your mind during the construction of the main building. Then you can immediately purchase building materials in the same style and include it in the main work plan. If this is not the case, you should think about the compatibility issue. For example, if the building is made of decorative brick, some elements of the veranda should also be built using bricks.
Preparation
How to make a veranda frame? The first step is to determine the size. As a rule, it is 4-6 meters long and about 2.5 wide. It should be adjacent to one of the existing entrances: the front entrance or the second one (for example, the exit from the kitchen to the garden).
Rice. 1. Veranda frame: photo
The area under the veranda is leveled by removing the top layer of earth (about 15 cm) in order to level it. Use a level. Next comes the marking of the horizontal and vertical boundaries of the future structure, and all dimensions must be perfectly adjusted. The strength and durability of your veranda depends on this.
To make markings, drive pegs in the required places and pull the cords.
Foundation
If the veranda is being built next to a previously erected building, it requires a separate foundation. As a rule, craftsmen choose the simplest but most reliable type of foundation - columnar. Brick pillars are laid under the corner posts, as well as at key points under the intermediate frame posts.
Rice. 2. Columnar foundation of the veranda
To lay the foundation, you must perform the following steps:
- after determining the places for the pillars, holes about 1 m deep are dug at these points;
- 20 cm of sand is poured into the bottom of each hole to create a “cushion” for the pillars. If the soil in your area is too sandy, it is better to use crushed stone for these purposes and fill it with hot bitumen;
- then the pit is filled with concrete, and its surface should be perfectly horizontal and flat;
- A brick pillar of the planned height is erected on a hardened cement base. The floor of the extension should be 25-30 cm below the floor of the house. In this case, its roof will be under the overhang of the roof of the main building, and the height of its walls will approximately coincide with the height of the walls in the house;
- the brick should be coated with bitumen and the entire soil should be covered with gravel or crushed stone to fill any voids.
Construction of a wooden frame
To make a wooden frame for a veranda, you will need a beam with a cross-section of 100×100 or 120×120 mm. You can also use asymmetrical sizes, for example, 120x80 mm.
Fig.3. Veranda frame diagram
So, the timber veranda frame is built as follows:
- The lower frame is installed on the base of the foundation pillars. For a reliable connection, its corners are mounted using the “half-tree with direct lock” technique;
- the next step is cutting joists into the frame, which will become the basis for the floor;
- 50x50x50 mm “spikes” (special grooves) are prepared in advance for the racks;
- the racks are attached to the harness with nails and reinforced staples;
- When the racks are secured, proceed to the installation of the rafters and the top trim. The fastenings remain the same: nails, spikes, staples;
- a horizontal beam (“purlin”) is attached to the ends of the rafters, which is placed directly under the roof slope and securely attached to the racks and the wall of the house using anchors;
- the beams that support the rafters are one of the most important parts of the veranda frame, so their installation and installation must be carried out with special care. The beams should be firmly screwed to the wall of the house and reach the overhang of its roof so that the roof of the veranda fits tightly with the roof of the house.
Rice. 4. Fastening “half-tree with direct lock”
At this point, the construction of the wooden frame of the veranda can be considered complete. Frame open veranda installed in exactly the same way, you can leave the construction of the walls to your discretion.
Metal frame for veranda
Previously, metal frames for building verandas were used extremely rarely, as they have low thermal insulation. However, thanks to modern technologies, today we can get a strong and durable foundation for an extension.
Rice. 5. Open veranda with a metal frame
Also, the veranda frame, made of metal, puts less pressure on the foundation due to its low weight. One of the advantages of metal frame technology is the use of thin-walled galvanized sigma profiles as its elements.
Features of installing a metal frame:
- thanks to the use of bolts, welding is not necessary;
- installation can be carried out in any weather conditions;
- all connections of such a frame are bolted, so you only need an adjustable wrench;
- The main fastening of the beams is anchors, which are laid in the base of the foundation. If, during laying, the installation of anchors was not a priority, check bolts are used, and special holes are drilled in the concrete for them;
- Sigma profiles are fastened using standard shaped products, which can be purchased at your local hardware store.
Roof installation
Installation pitched roof verandas are the most common among builders of country real estate. Of course, if you have extra time and imagination, you can build a roof to your liking. However, remember that this is the easiest for a beginner and reliable way installation
Rice. 6. Veranda roof made of polycarbonate
Some tips for installing a veranda roof:
- Before installing the roof, a sheathing of edged boards is installed, laid either closely or at a minimum distance;
- choose a roof in the same style and color as the roof of the main building;
- when using roofing felt, the flooring will be continuous. In this case, it is nailed to the rafters with nails, the heads of which should be recessed as much as possible. Next, the roofing material is fixed with slats;
- the roof is folded under the sheathing along the lower edge by about 10 cm;
- sheets metal roofing connected using folded seams;
- an abestos cement roof is installed with an overlap of up to 15 cm. Such a roof is secured with screws with holes prepared in advance for them.
Now you know how to build a veranda frame from wood or metal, lay its foundation and mount the roof. We wish you success in construction!
By building a veranda, you can make your home more beautiful and unique, as well as expand its usable area. But how to build it? The easiest way is to add a veranda to the housing project before construction begins - in this case, it will have a common foundation with the house and will be stronger.
However, if such an opportunity was missed, do not be upset, since it is absolutely possible to attach a veranda to the house after its construction is completed - you just need to study the technology of work and learn all the subtleties of the process. How to build a veranda correctly?
Veranda design
The first stage of any construction is the creation of a project; This stage is also important when constructing such a relatively simple structure as a terrace. Compose detailed plan construction can be done independently using various software. However, if you don't have special education, it is better to contact the design office for professional help.
Plan of walls and partitions of the first floor
Design can be divided into several separate stages.
Choosing a veranda type
A veranda attached to the house can have the most different type. All such structures can be divided into two types:
You can choose any option - the main thing is that the terrace fits organically into the overall exterior of the house and becomes its logical continuation.
Thematic material:
The form of construction also varies. The simplest and affordable option- This is an ordinary rectangular veranda. A rounded, curved design will be more complex. You can also add polygonal terraces to the house, running along one or several walls or even forming a whole belt around the entire house. It is not at all necessary to build a veranda near the front door, although this seems to be the most obvious solution.
Material selection
As a rule, the veranda is built from the same material from which the house is made: it is better to attach a veranda made of logs or timber to a brick building or a wooden house. However, you should not rely on design compliance alone. Another important criterion when working is how difficult the construction of the veranda will be.
The easiest way to build - an object made from it can be easily processed, the material allows you to easily implement many design ideas. You can also simply and inexpensively create a structure from modern materials: WPC, PVC, polycarbonate. To attach a concrete or metal veranda to a house, you will most likely need the help of specialists in various fields.
Construction site analysis
One of the most important tasks when designing a terrace, this means studying the technical nuances and bringing the characteristics of the future building into line with the conditions of the area. Several factors will affect the quality and durability of the structure:
- soil type;
- the condition of the building wall to which the veranda is planned to be attached;
- climatic conditions in the region.
The maximum mass of the terrace, the complexity of the foundation, the need for insulation, and much more depend on these parameters.
Receiving documents
This point is very easy to lose sight of if all the work on building a terrace from start to finish is done independently. The veranda design and other technical documentation will help you obtain permission to change the design and technical certificate of the house. By law, construction approval is required by the following authorities:
- local government;
- fire safety authorities;
- sanitary and epidemiological station.
It seems that since the built house and land are your property, you are free to do whatever you want with them - including adding a terrace. However, without all the permits and a documented project, the terrace will be legally considered an illegal extension to the house. This will make it impossible to sell the object, donate it, or exchange it; It will also be impossible to get a bank loan using the house as collateral.
Construction of the foundation
Once the project is completed and all permits have been obtained, the actual construction work can begin. And their first part is the construction of a high-quality and reliable foundation. How to do this part of the building correctly?
The main requirement is this: the base of a closed or open veranda attached to a private house must correspond in its technical characteristics to the foundation of the main building. First of all, its depth should be the same. If this requirement is not met, when the air temperature drops due to uneven deformation of materials, parts of the house will separate, and a gap will appear between the terrace and the wall.
The new foundation is connected to the old one in different ways depending on how long ago the house was built.
- A new house is usually in the process of shrinking, so a rigid connection will lead to the destruction of a less durable structure - most likely it will be a terrace. In this case, the veranda is built using the tongue-and-groove method - it will slide around the house as if on rails, and the difference in shrinkage rates will not harm the structure in any way.
- If the house has been standing for a long time and the shrinkage has completed, a rigid connection of the terrace to it is allowed. In this case, a gasket made of waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt) is used and the joint is treated with polyurethane foam.
It will not be possible to make the foundation unified if the terrace was not conceived at the design stage of the house, but nevertheless, you should try to combine the bases of the veranda and the house as efficiently as possible.
The type of foundation is selected depending on the design features of the terrace, primarily its mass, as well as the type of soil.
Formation of flooring
Whether the planned veranda is closed or its main attribute is complete openness, in any case the floor of the terrace must be durable, warm and protected from destruction.
Most often, even if the rest of the veranda is made of concrete or brick, the floor is made of wood. This is due to both the practical and aesthetic properties of this material:
- wood prevents heat from escaping into the ground;
- it is durable;
- wood is completely safe for health;
- such a floor practically does not require decorative processing, since the material itself is very beautiful - you just need to cover it with a layer of varnish to protect it from damage.
The floor on the finished foundation is built in the following order.
All wooden elements of the veranda must be treated with antiseptic and antibacterial impregnations. This will protect the terrace floor from rotting, damage by fungi and other microorganisms, significantly extending its service life.
Walling
Walls, unlike the floor, are an optional attribute of attached verandas. Instead of them, it is quite possible to build a regular one. The veranda may not have any fencing at all - some projects for adding a veranda to the house involve the use of plants and hedges as a fence. If you plan to make full-fledged railings, walls and roofing, the next stage after the formation of the floor will be the construction of the frame.
A lightweight wooden frame is made like this.
- Along the perimeter of the floor, beams are laid, connected to each other with a direct lock. Grooves should be made on them for attaching the racks in increments of about 50 cm.
- The racks are fixed in the grooves using metal brackets.
- The top of the racks is tied with timber.
- We make rafters for the roof.
A lightweight one is built in a similar way. metal frame. If the foundation allows, the frame can be made of concrete or brick. Thickness load-bearing elements designs may differ from the characteristics of the walls of the main house. Roof supports must be at least 1.5 bricks thick, fence posts must be 125 mm thick.
Terrace walls can be finished using a variety of materials:
- wooden or plastic lining;
- metal siding;
- beam;
- decorative brick and much more.
The main thing is compliance with the appearance of the house.
The walls of the veranda must be connected to the wall of the house in the same way as the foundations of the structures. For this purpose, steel embedded elements are used. They are fixed in the main wall using deep holes, and in the wall structures of the terrace they are laid at the construction stage and secured with cement-sand mortar.
If the veranda is made open, railings are erected instead of walls. They can also be made from wood, metal, WPC, brick or concrete. This type of fence consists of posts, balusters and railings.
Roofing works
The roof of the terrace can be removable, but it is better to securely fasten it to the frame if you plan to build a durable veranda. Like the floor, the main part of the roof is made of wood. The reliability and durability of the structure depend on how accurately the construction technology is followed.
The main terrace is rafter system, consisting of wooden beam and board sheathing. The purpose of this system is to retain roofing material in place and curing external influences- for example, precipitation pressure. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the rafters.
First of all, the rafters are treated with antiseptic agents. Next, the following work is done.
After all the main elements of the veranda have been completed, all that remains is to make a few finishing touches - to do interior decoration, carry out electrical wiring and, if necessary, heating, install recreational furniture.
The listed construction work is only the basic part of the technology that any veranda extension requires. The remaining elements are the stairs, decorative elements- are made in accordance with the project. Having built the main parts of the terrace, you can probably easily cope with the additional ones.
Order services from professionals
Don't have time to build yourself? Contact the following organizations.